Can I get some advice on shipping a puppy from the U.S. to Canada?

Jd

I have a family member that has a litter of Boxer puppies from her female and CH male Boxer. There is a person in Canada interested in purchasing one of the puppies because of the bloodlines. The CH male is an older dog and will probably not be bred again, so this is probably his last litter. This Canadian family can provide a very good home for the puppy and they have plans to show with the Canadian Kennel Club. They understand there will be extra shipping charges. How does one safely ship a Boxer puppy from the U.S. to Canada? My sister has never shipped a puppy before, and I have no clue either, so we would like some advice on doing so. Need to know the steps to take and what all we should do. My sister is living in Alabama right now. I think the closest airports to her would either be Birmingham or Huntsville, but she can take the puppy to a larger airport like Atlanta or Nashville if absolutely necessary. The puppy would need to be shipped to Edmonton in Alberta? Thanks!!
Would love to hear from someone that has experience shipping pups or dogs from the U.S. to Canada. We want to ensure we do it the right way and also for the safety and best interest of the pup.

Answer
The puppy must be beautiful! Canada is not the most difficult destination for exporting a dog, but anytime a pet owner ships internationally, they should make sure to keep a few things in mind:

- The puppy can travel two ways to CA, as accompanied in cabin with a passenger, or as manifested cargo. Both the passenger area of the plane and the cargo area of the plane are temp. and pressure controlled, but the cargo area is dimly lit, which is preferable for dogs while in transit to reduce anxiety. WHETHER IT CAN TRAVEL AS ACCOMPANIED WITH PASSENGER DEPENDS ON THE AIRLINE REGULATIONS, NOT CANADIAN OR US REG.

- If your puppy is going into CA w/o a rabies vac. and is under 3 mos. of age, then you will need to make pre-arrival arrangements with the CFIA (Canadian Food Inspection Agency) veterinarian,by contacting their office.

- If your puppy will be over 3 mos., the dog needs a rabies vac. and a health cert. (us international FORM aphis 7001)

- The crate that you choose should be IATA (International Air Transportation Assoc.) approved, meaning that major airlines will accept it as manifested cargo. It should be a two piece hard plastic crate, and ventilation on all sides is preferable but not required. Many crate companies meet these requirements, but different airlines require slightly different things. For instance, some carriers mandate that internationally traveling pets should have clips AND metal pins securing the crate in place. A good quality crate known as the CLIPPER series can be purchased here: http://www.premierpetrelocation.com/

-The airlines that we usually use (I represent a pet relocation company: Premier Pet Relocation) to enter Canada are United/Continental, Delta, or Air Canada. We use software provided to us by the airlines that informs us of current routes and whether planes at different airports can accommodate pets that we assist.

-Make sure that your pet has received no medication prior to the flight in an effort to sedate the pet. It is never ok to sedate your pet prior to travel, as healthy pets with valid health certs. do not need sedation to travel.

-Direct flights are usually less stressful on the pet than those with connections. I am not positive, but I think that the optimal route would be ATL -> YEG.

-I hope that I'm not leaving any information out. At Premier Pet Relocation, we have an international specialist named Vanessa who handles all of our international pet relocation. If you were to have any questions and would like to retain her service, kindly visit our website or give us a call:

1 800 434 2206

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Reaction to dog shots ?

ILikeWaffl

So I just gave my 2 adult dogs shots from the feed store like I always do , but I gave them to my puppy for the first time , these are her first shots , and she pooped liquid poop . It was green and VERY smelly . I also changed her food to a more healthy dog food . She also got her 2ed bath today . so I'm wondering if its a reaction to her shots or just all the crazy and weird things .... Please help.

I've given all my dogs feed store shot all there life except the rabies . Witch I got at the vet .
Should I be real worried?
She is a 10 week Pitbull terrier if that helps .

And this time my mom got the shots and she was in traffic and they went un refrigerated for 1 or so hour . Does that effect anything ?

Answer
First when you get a puppy its advised to deworm the dog before anything.

Second its always a good idea to do the deworming day 1 then on day seven you can do the vaccination then on day 14 you can start of flea prevent/heartworm.

You mention that you changed the food as well which should have been dong first of after all the above steps. The reason for this is the reason you explain above it helps to monitor what reaction come from what.

Third you need to be more realistic about the timing of everything. On a piece of paper write everything you have done from day one when you gave the bath and what time and label them 1 to whatever number is last. Then mark exactly when your puppy started to have green poop. Recall every detail you can about the previous days before. What kind of food are you feeding? what treats or bones.
Known causes of green feces in dogs are intestinal disorders and parasite infections. The stool appears slimy and green in color. Watch for symptoms of constipation, straining to defecate or diarrhea, as it helps the vet establish a correct diagnosis. In certain cases, parasites go undetected in the first fecal exam, and the vet may recommend a second stool examination. Green feces in dogs could also be attributed to ingestion of grass or allergies caused by certain ingredients in food.
Read more: Canine Medical Problems Indicated with Dog Feces.com

Shots are not what case green poop. The only reaction that a vaccination will give is a large lump or swollen face. Also only one shot is given 3 times and each shot being 3 weeks apart so if you have given more than one vaccination on one day then you need to address this to your vet NOW.

Finally the vaccination MUST REMAIN COLD and given within 10 minutes of removing from the ice box because the life culture inside the vile dies if the temp warms up. Making the shot defective and a waste of money. The feed store should have been able to provide ice packs to transport home. If not then you will need to bring your own next time. Because the shot was allowed to warm up again we assume it is defective and now your puppy is still susceptible to diseases such as parvo. I suggest a visit to the vet in order for them to do a fecal. Most vet will allow you to bring it in without an appointment and tell you the results later. This cost no more than 15 dollars or so and will give indication if there is presence of parasites. I have always given my dogs this schedule below.

Week 6: Deworming with verbantel or drontal plus
Week 7: Treatment for fleas with capstar if needed
Week 8: First Vaccination
Week 11: Second Vaccination
Week 14: Third Vaccination
Week 16: Another capstar treatment/ or first dose of comfortis or trifexis

Depending on your area you may need a rabies vaccination which is required by a local vet. You can give this during week 17-18.

Finally you can give the dog a rest but because puppies are young and each environment is different. You may require a kennel cough vaccination which is usually only required for boarding but can also be present in dog parks, dog sitters or even veterinarian offices. Because in my area (hawaii) we do not have rabies but we have SERIOUS problems with lepto I will give my puppy an additional vaccination around 7-8 months of age. Then a fifth at age one. Then annually as most vets will recommend.

As for food it is alwasy recommended to slowly incorporate new food and mix with the food given prior to getting the puppy to ensure that the dogs tummy does not become upset from such a sudden change on top of a whole new environment ...on top of all this medication.

Anyway hope this information helps.

Is it true that pitbulls were crossbreed?

Q. i heard they were crossbreed wit a tiger or sumthing like that but i think thats just a myth..if so then how were pitbulls created cuz i heard they were an experiment or sumthing like that

Answer
It is a myth! Pits can be very nice dogs. If they are bred to fight, they are going to do it. A lot of pits make good pets.
The American Pit Bull Terrier is a pure bred dog! They can be UKC registered. The AKC does register American Staffs which are related to Pits.

AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIER
Official U.K.C. Breed Standard
Revised October 21, 2004

History

Sometime during the nineteenth century, dog fanciers in England, Ireland, and Scotland began to experiment with crosses between Bulldogs and Terriers, looking for a dog that combined the gameness of the terrier with the strength and athleticism of the Bulldog. The result was a dog that embodied all of the virtues attributed to great warriors: strength, indomitable courage, and gentleness with loved ones. Immigrants brought these bull and terrier crosses to the United States. The American Pit Bull Terrier's many talents did not go unnoticed by farmers and ranchers who used their APBTs for protection, as catch dogs for semi-wild cattle and hogs, to hunt, to drive livestock, and as family companions. Today, the American Pit Bull Terrier continues to demonstrate its versatility, competing successfully in Obedience, Tracking, Agility, Protection, and Weight Pulls, as well as Conformation.

The United Kennel Club was the first registry to recognize the American Pit Bull Terrier. U.K.C. founder C. Z. Bennett assigned U.K.C. registration number 1 to his own APBT, Bennett's Ring in 1898.

General Appearance

The American Pit Bull Terrier is a medium-sized, solidly built, short-coated dog with smooth, well-defined musculature. This breed is both powerful and athletic. The body is just slightly longer than tall, but bitches may be somewhat longer in body than dogs. The length of the front leg (measured from point of elbow to the ground) is approximately equal to one-half of the dog's height at the withers. The head is of medium length, with a broad, flat skull, and a wide, deep muzzle. Ears are small to medium in size, high set, and may be natural or cropped. The relatively short tail is set low, thick at the base and tapers to a point. The American Pit Bull Terrier comes in all colors and color patterns. This breed combines strength and athleticism with grace and agility and should never appear bulky or muscle-bound or fine-boned and rangy.

Characteristics

The essential characteristics of the American Pit Bull Terrier are strength, confidence, and zest for life. This breed is eager to please and brimming over with enthusiasm. APBTs make excellent family companions and have always been noted for their love of children. Because most APBTs exhibit some level of dog aggression and because of its powerful physique, the APBT requires an owner who will carefully socialize and obedience train the dog. The breed's natural agility makes it one of the most capable canine climbers so good fencing is a must for this breed. The APBT is not the best choice for a guard dog since they are extremely friendly, even with strangers. Aggressive behavior toward humans is uncharacteristic of the breed and highly undesirable. This breed does very well in performance events because of its high level of intelligence and its willingness to work.

The American Pit Bull Terrier has always been capable of doing a wide variety of jobs so exaggerations or faults should be penalized in proportion to how much they interfere with the dog's versatility.

Head

The APBT head is unique and a key element of breed type. It is large and broad, giving the impression of great power, but it is not disproportionate to the size of the body. Viewed from the front, the head is shaped like a broad, blunt wedge. When viewed from the side, the skull and muzzle are parallel to one another and joined by a well defined, moderately deep stop. Supraorbital arches over the eyes are well defined but not pronounced. The head is well chiseled, blending strength, elegance, and character.

SKULL - The skull is large, flat or slightly rounded, deep, and broad between the ears. Viewed from the top, the skull tapers just slightly toward the stop. There is a deep median furrow that diminishes in depth from the stop to the occiput. Cheek muscles are prominent but free of wrinkles. When the dog is concentrating, wrinkles form on the forehead, which give the APBT his unique expression.

MUZZLE - The muzzle is broad and deep with a very slight taper from the stop to the nose, and a slight falling away under the eyes. The length of muzzle is shorter than the length of skull, with a ratio of approximately 2:3. The topline of the muzzle is straight. The lower jaw is well developed, wide and deep. Lips are clean and tight.

Faults: Snipey muzzle; flews; weak lower jaw.

TEETH - The American Pit Bull Terrier has a complete set of evenly spaced, white teeth meeting in a scissors bite.

Fault: Level bite.

Serious Faults: Undershot, or overshot bite; wry mouth; missing teeth (this does not apply to teeth that have been lost or removed by a veterinarian).

NOSE - The nose is large with wide, open nostrils. The nose may be any color.

EYES - Eyes are medium size, round to almond-shaped, and set well apart and low on the skull. All colors are equally acceptable except blue, which is a serious fault. Haw should not be visible.

Serious Faults: Bulging eyes; both eyes not matched in color; blue eyes.

EARS - Ears are high set and may be natural or cropped without preference. If natural, semi-prick or rose are preferred. Prick or flat, wide ears are not desired.

Neck

The neck is of moderate length and muscular. There is a slight arch at the crest. The neck widens gradually from where it joins the skull to where it blends into well laid-back shoulders. The skin on the neck is tight and without dewlap.

Faults: Neck too short and thick; thin or weak neck; ewe neck; dewlap.

Forequarters

The shoulder blades are long, wide, muscular, and well laid back. The upper arm is roughly equal in length to the shoulder blade and joins it at an apparent right angle.

The forelegs are strong and muscular. The elbows are set close to the body. Viewed from the front, the forelegs are set moderately wide apart and perpendicular to the ground. The pasterns are short, powerful, straight, and flexible. When viewed in profile, the pasterns are nearly erect.

Faults: Upright or loaded shoulders; elbows turned outward or tied-in; down at the pasterns; front legs bowed; wrists knuckled over; toeing in or out.

Body

The chest is deep, well filled in, and moderately wide with ample room for heart and lungs, but the chest should never be wider than it is deep. The forechest does not extend much beyond the point of shoulder. The ribs extend well back and are well sprung from the spine, then flattening to form a deep body extending to the elbows. The back is strong and firm. The topline inclines very slightly downward from the withers to a broad, muscular, level back. The loin is short, muscular and slightly arched to the top of the croup, but narrower than the rib cage and with a moderate tuck-up. The croup is slightly sloping downward.

Hindquarters

The hindquarters are strong, muscular, and moderately broad. The rump is well filled in on each side of the tail and deep from the pelvis to the crotch. The bone, angulation, and musculature of the hindquarters are in balance with the forequarters. The thighs are well developed with thick, easily discerned muscles. Viewed from the side, the hock joint is well bent and the rear pasterns are well let down and perpendicular to the ground. Viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are straight and parallel to one another.
Faults: Narrow hindquarters; hindquarters shallow from pelvis to crotch; lack of muscle; straight or over angulated stifle joint; cow hocks; sickle hocks; bowed legs.

Feet

The feet are round, proportionate to the size of the dog, well arched, and tight. Pads are hard, tough, and well cushioned. Dewclaws may be removed.

Fault: Splayed feet.

Tail

The tail is set on as a natural extension of the topline, and tapers to a point. When the dog is relaxed, the tail is carried low and extends approximately to the hock. When the dog is moving, the tail is carried level with the backline. When the dog is excited, the tail may be carried in a raised, upright position (challenge tail), but never curled over the back (gay tail).

Fault: Long tail (tail tip passes beyond point of hock).

Serious faults: Gay tail (not to be confused with challenge tail); kinked tail.

Disqualification: Bobbed tail.

Coat

The coat is glossy and smooth, close, and moderately stiff to the touch.

Faults: Curly, wavy, or sparse coat.

Disqualification: Long coat.

Color

Any color, color pattern, or combination of colors is acceptable, except for merle.

Disqualification: Merle

Height and Weight

The American Pit Bull Terrier must be both powerful and agile so actual weight and height are less important than the correct proportion of weight to height. Desirable weight for a mature male in good condition is between 35 and 60 pounds. Desirable weight for a mature female in good condition is between 30 and 50 pounds. Dogs over these weights are not to be penalized unless they are disproportionately massive or rangy.

Gait

The American Pit Bull Terrier moves with a jaunty, confident attitude, conveying the impression that he expects any minute to see something new and exciting. When trotting, the gait is effortless, smooth, powerful, and well coordinated, showing good reach in front and drive behind. When moving, the backline remains level with only a slight flexing to indicate suppleness. Viewed from any position, legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. As speed increases, feet tend to converge toward center line of balance.

Faults: Legs not moving on the same plane; legs over reaching; legs crossing over in front or rear; rear legs moving too close or touching; rolling; pacing; paddling; sidewinding; hackney action; pounding.

Disqualifications

Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Viciousness or extreme shyness. Unilateral or bilateral deafness. Bobbed tail. Albinism. Merle. Long coat.

Note: Although some level of dog aggression is characteristic of this breed, handlers will be expected to comply with U.K.C. policy regarding dog temperament at U.K.C. events.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Most aggressive dog breed?

rebecca

I herd from someone that Dachshunds are the most aggressive dog breed????? Okay... But how come every Chihuahua I met NEVER let me pet them, one never accepted a treat from me, and two bit me on the finger or leg. They had good owners and were never abused, they were mean to everyone except there owner. One of them just came up and bit me in the back of the leg, for no reason. I was calm, cool, collected, not nervous at all, and then she took a big chunk out of my calf. As for dachshunds, only one out of the 52 I met wouldn't stop barking. That's because he had a previous owner who abused him. As for biting, never have I met a Dachshund who even attempted. I have met 3 dachshunds who get nervous around children, and they growl at them. All you have to do is either put the dog in the crate until the child leaves, or tell the child to ignore the dog and the dog will do nothing, except try to sniff the kid. I know Dachshunds hunt badgers... maybe that's the bad rep?

Answer
The Chihuahuas you are describing are unstable and/or untrained. A dog that is aggressive is not going to be mindlessly lashing out and biting people or animals unless they are perceived as a threat or as prey, unless the dog is also totally unstable. Aggression is merely a dog's innate genetic response of fight being more prevalent than flight, it is coupled with some level of drive (prey, territorial, dominance, protective, possessive) and then with a threshold level for arousal. It is only when these three are out of balance (or totally left to develop without any training or guidance) that you get one of those nasty dogs that just likes to bite everyone it sees - that dog is UNSTABLE, the aggression or willingness to engage is not the issue.

I am getting a dog, i need some opinions/advice...?

Q. Question number one:
I'm going to be adopting a one year old American Pit Bull Terrier with in the next couple weeks(Female - 52 pounds) from my local animal shelter and i am ordering some stuff off of a website (A reputable website!) i already ordered a twelve month supply of both Frontline Plus and Heartgard Plus. I also ordered Super Pure Omega 3 240 capsules (I am ordering everything i need all at once.) I have already bought multiple toys, three leashes (A nylon leash, a chain leash, and a leather leash), two flat collars, Shampoo, a crate/kennel, a extra large dog bed, an elevated food and water dish holder, food and water bowls (Four), and i have $2,500 set aside in the bank for any emergencies (Unexpected Veterinary Emergency)... I do have a veterinarian appointment set up for June 16th (I will be getting my American Pit Bull Terrier on the 12th) and i am signing her up for obedience classes that start on June 22nd.
Is there anything else that i need for my new companion that i am missing?

Question number two:
I am wondering how long a 30 pound bag of Taste Of The Wild Wetlands Canine with Roasted Fowl Dry Dog Food along with 12 cans of Taste Of The Wild Wetlands Canine with Roasted Fowl Canned Dog Food (13.3 OZ in each can) would last (An estimate would be fantastic!)? I don't know if i should order two bags and 24 cans, or just one bag and 12 cans for the time being.



I am so excited to get my dog, i have been saving up for my own dog since i was 17 years old (I am now 26 years old) and waiting until i was in a good place (Both financially and having my own home/fenced in yard/etc..) to adopt my own dog.
Dragonfry,
First of all, i want to say thank you so much.
I want to add though, that the metal leash has chain links but the handle is leather, i probably should have mentioned that previously. (Like this: http://www.google.com/#q=Chain+leash&hl=en&rlz=1R2ADFA_enUS414&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&ei=8JPjTeXRIMXi0QHcvojCBw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CFAQzAMwAA&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=3462ed02299704e9&biw=1345&bih=496 )
Also, the elevated water/food dish holder attaches to the crate so my dog won't be able to tip/spill it, i won't be using it regularly.. Just for travel/etc..

Answer
CONGRATS on getting a dog. You seem very excited. What you have now should be fine, the dog will be lots of work but it is so worth it. Depending on how well shes trained i sugest preparing yourself lol your house is ready, but make sure before you get her your 100% willing to take the time and do the work having a dog means. Normally a dog should be fed once or twice a day, smaller bowlfuls if twice. But it also depends on the dog. I sugest ordering the smaller ammount. Rember you cant dictate how the dog will react to the food. Maybe it upsets her tummy, maybe it causes her to have issues taking a dump, maybe she just hates the food. Dogs can be picky. My own lost there taste for the old food and wouldnt eat, now i have to buy another kind. Id be happy to say more about how to care for a dog if youd like to im or message me.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Plastic Kennel vs. Metal Wire Crates for Golden Retriever pup.?

Rasta Love

Should i get the kennel or crate for golden retriever pup. Is it ok to buy a adult size crate/kennel because the pup is eventually going to grow up and dont want to buy another.

Answer
Wire. The wire ones come with a divider, so when the dog is a pup you can make the crate smaller, and make it larger as the dog grows, so you don't have to buy multiple crate as your pup grows!

The plastic ones, in my experience/opinion, are too confining, and not as sturdy.

New dogs possible problems..?

BBChevy

a friend of my wifes is going through a rocky divorce and neither want the dogs so my wife is going to get their Iris Setter and Golden Retriever tommorrow they both are 10 months to a year old.. however my wife and I already have 4 dogs.. 7 year old German Shorthair, 4 year old Weimaraner, 3 year old Vizla, and a 13 week old English Pointer...

We have plenty of land for them to play.. 8 acres fenced in and a pool.. we converted one bedroom of the house to a semi kennel with dog hammocks.. but the problem i'm facing is.. out german shorthair is the dominant dog.. and he's fine with out orhter dogs.. but when brought around strange and older dogs he gets very protective.. what should i do when my wife brings these two dogs home should i try to stay with all the dogs as long as possible.. or immediately seperate my dogs from the new ones until they become used to the new scent and everything
sorry for the fuss.. we got the dogs today.. and with both of them still being puppies my german shorthair didn't much care for them.. and even let them nibble around his mouth and ears.. he didn't much play with them but the weim and vizla played with them for a while..

i have both the irish setter and golden retriever in cages at night because their not quite potty trained, but everything seems fine, also all of my dogs including the two new ones aren't neutered.. as i breed my dogs up to 4 times a year due to their great lineage.. i'm not to sure on the new ones but they both have AKC paperwork (not yet completed unfortunately but they don't really have names yet either) although i'm still uncomfortable leaving them all together when i'm not around.. my dogs are very well trained but get protective of my wife.. so we'll see how that goes tommorrow/tonight while i'm at work
also just for the record.. i don't believe in altering dogs such as docking their ears or tail.. i don't neuter my dogs as i find (from growing up experience) dogs neutered were generally more irritable and with hopefully having a kid in the next few years so.. also i don't like cage training because my dogs don't sleep through the night as one of them gets up to roam the house before returning to their hammock.. and it's worked out well and stopped one attempted burglary about a year ago.. i'm by far not new to raising puppies.. since birth i've always had atleast a dog at home and my dogs are great with my nephews and nieces.. althought fiercly protective of them when a stranger approaches (sorry fed ex) but the weim and vizla don't bark until the german does.. although they do hunt in a pack as i've watched the vizla flush a rabbit while the weim and german ambushed and killed.. (weird i know.. no hunting training involved)

Answer
1) Please thoroughly exercise yoru GSP before he meets the new dogs. Exercise lowers stress.

2) You need to introduce them in a neutral location (NOT your yard, not their yard). And probably not in a pack format, but one or two dogs at a time. If you can't pull this off, just take your GSP & intro him to the others off lead, in a neutral location. It might be best to use a muzzle.

The Dog Whisper often tackles this issue, so you may be able to see some videos online from his show. He often suggests getting the two dogs walking the same direction together or within 5 feet of each other, and at a faster-than-normal, pace. You will need the owner or a friend to walk at least one of the new dogs with you walking your GSP. I think I also have some links which may be helpful.

You don't say whether your GSP is neutered or not. If he's not, you might want to consider that and if the newbies are not fixed, please consider doing them. This is not an anti-breeding rant, just that intact dogs are more likely to fight, than neutered ones. Be on high alert for inappropriate marking. This is not just because you have male dogs, but sometimes when things change in a home, a dog who is insecure... may be more likely to start marking indoors.

If ths doesn't seem to work out, please consider contacting purebred rescue for these breeds. Many Golden Ret clubs do it, but if they are overpopulated (due to the bad economy) it may be easier to find a home for the Irish, if the original breeder won't take them back (do check). They are far less popular nowadays, so fewer need homes.

PS Ask for the reg. papers and ask for detailed information like: the vet's phone number & their vet records, what heartworm prevention they're on, when they last got it and shots, what type of food they are eating currently. Ask for bedding and toys.

It is too bad yours don't seem to be crate-trained. It would be easier to crate ALL of them, rather than hope they all settle into "hammocks". (Also safer to feed them in crates, vs loose.) Food is THE biggest trigger for fights, followed by toys.) Yes, your dogs are okay with the hammocks (I guess) but the newbies, are going to be used to something else. Confinement and dog separation may be very important to your new living situation. Almost all dogs can settle quickly into "A" crate, if crate-trained.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

10 points for the BEST ANSWER!!!?

Amal

Hi!
Name some store names which are funny.
BEST ANSWER WINS 10 POINTS!
Thumbs-up to all sensible answers.
There is one which I know:
Fishy Trading

Answer
Leaven and Earth ~ Bakery, Berkeley, CA
Rising Loafer ~ Restaurant/Bakery, Pleasanton, CA
The Hop Yard ~ Restaurant/Microbrewery, Pleasanton, CA
Juan More Taco ~ Taqueria in Fremont, CA
Citizen Canine ~ Dog Kennel, Oakland, CA
Every Dog Has Its Day Careâ¢, Inc. ~ Dog Kennel, Emeryville, CA
Miss Pearl's Jam House ~ Restaurant, Oakland, CA
Bullshifters ~ Former Manual Transmission/Clutch Repair, San Jose, CA
Many Happy Returns Inc. ~ Tax Preperation, Glen Burnie, Maryland
Many Happy Returns ~ Tax Preperation, St. Petersburg, Florida
Many Happy Returns Inc. ~ Sample Return Service, NYC
Den of Antiquities ~ Victoria, Australia
A Den of Antiquity ~ Ashville, North Carolina
Crapo Appliance Service ~ Redmond, Washington
It's A Crewel World ~ Salem, Massachusetts
Bead It ~ Bead Store, Santa Cruz, CA
2 the Point ~ Needlepoint Store, Pleasanton, CA
The Best Little Hairhouse In Town ~ Camp Springs, Maryland
The Best Little Hairhouse On Campus ~ Two Locations
The Best Little Hairhouse In Gresham ~ Gresham, Oregon
Wok N Roll ~ Multiple Locations across the US
Linoleum Dicks ~ Floor Covering Store, San Jose, CA
Cyclepath ~ Bicycle Store, Hayward & San Mateo, CA
Know Knew Books ~ Used Book Store, Palo Alto, CA
Booked Solid ~ Used Book Store, Bradford, VT
Chain Reation Bicycles ~ Bicycle Store, Redwood City, CA
Pizza My Heart ~ Several Locations in the San Francisco Bay Area
Peace A Pizza ~ Several Locations in Pennsylvania, 1 in New Jersey,
1 in Delaware and 1 in Florida
Pizza Orgasmica & Brewing Co ~ San Francisco, CA
99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall ~ Restaurant & Pub Santa Cruz, CA
Hour Place ~ Clock Store, Capitola, CA
Garden of Eat'n ~ Restaurant, Utopia, TX
Beauty and the Bistro ~ Unrelated Restaurants in a few US cities
Little Miss Muffin ~ Specialty Bakery, Chicago, IL
Shuck's Transmission Service ~ Fremont, CA
Long Won ~ Chinese Take Out, Brooklyn, NY
Peek Funeral Home ~ Westminster, CA
Boxwell Brothers Funeral Directors ~ Various locations in Texas
Kuntz Insurance Group ~ Brookhaven PA
Mama Zuma's Revenge ~ chips made by Route 11 Potato Chips, Middletown, VA
Salt and Battery ~ Fish and Chips, Brisbane, Australia
Wok Around the Clock ~ Earlville, Queensland Australia
El Squid Roe ~ Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Master Baiter's Sportfishing and Tackle ~ Puerto Vallarta, Mexcio
Dirty Dick's Crab House ~ Sea Food Restaurant, Outer Banks, NC & Panama City, FL
Mangy Moose Saloon ~ Jackson Hole, WY
Animal ~ Restaurant, Los Angeles, CA
Beaver Liquors ~ Various Places around the Planet
Beaver Bath Car Wash, LLC ~ Beaver, West Virgina
The Chocolate Mess ~ Chocolate Fountain Rentals, San Francisco Bay Area
The Daily Grind Coffee House/Café ~ Multiple Locations across the US
The Daily Grind Coffee Shop ~ Multiple Locations across the US
It's A Grind Coffee House ~ Multiple Locations across the US
Hickey's Pharmacies ~ Ireland
Hash House A Go Go ~ Presents "Twisted Farm Food", Restaurant, San Diego, CA
Schmidt-Haus Realty ~ Northern, WI
Schickhaus Meats ~ Meat Packing Company, NJ
Frodo Joe's Coffee & Tea ~ Coffee Shop, San Lorenzo & Hayward, CA
Frodo Joe's La Petit Café ~ Coffee Shop, Sandwiches & Crepes, Fremont, CA

thats all in my list!

how do i get pedigree papers for my puppy when i only have copies of her parents pedigree

katt651

both her parents are registered with pedigree but she came with no papers of her own .cost me 700 dollars . can she be registered as a pedigree dog now or do the breeders have to do it. we live in brisbane QLD

Answer
I know things are done a little different down under but if you contact the Australian National Kennel Club http://www.ankc.org.au/home/default.asp I am sure they will help you sort it all out.

Make sure you have the name and address of the breeder, the registered names of sire and dam and the date you purchased when you contact them.

Good luck

Additional information:
QUEENSLAND

Canine Control Council (Queensland)
PO Box 495
Fortitude Valley Qld 4006
Phone: (07) 3252 2661
Fax: (07) 3252 3864
Email: dogsqld@powerup.com.au
http://www.cccq.org.au/

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

dog crating?

T H

Okay well our bulldog is 6 yrs old, and we just bought our first home. He is busting through the baby gate we are using to try to keep him in the kitchen until he gets used to the house. We let him out constantly, but he will not go pee. I was thinking of crating him while we are not home so he can learn, but will he? Any suggestions on what we can do? I need help. He is very good, but stubborn and spoiled and definitly confused because of the move.

Answer
It wouldn't hurt to crate him. That would give him a safe place to be where he feels comfortable, and also would help with him escaping. Is he allowed in your bedroom at night? I would either put a crate or dog bed in the bedroom so he can sleep with you because it sounds like he is just nervous in the new home.

Type of dog crate for escape artist??? Ten points for best answer!!?

Michelle

Okay so I have a nine month old german shepherd mix. We have had her since she was 2 months old. She is fully potty trained and has been for several months. She is very intellegent but hates the crate. I never really got her used to the crate which I know is a mistake on my part. however, we had a wire steel crate and the one time we left she slid the tray out from underneath, bent the metal and got out. Nothing happened for four months when we left. However recently a few weeks ago, she managed to rip the door right off, which was not fixable anymore. I even had pushed up a step stool against the door and she still managed. I am going to now be firm with crate training her so she is more comfortable in the crate when we are not here. Any advice on how to do this is appreciated also. She is ok if we are in the room, but once we leave the room she is crying constantly. She wont even eat anything we put in with her. Like treats. I have also tried putting a piece of clothing in with her. My question is what would be the best kind of crate for this type of situation. Her breed is german shepherd mix and she is about 50 pounds. Thanks in advance.

Answer
I have a shepherd mix as well who is just over a year. I trained him as a puppy so he actually enjoys his crate now, but since the pup is a little older I would just do some simple exercises with her- She more than likely is just anxious when you leave. So if you put her in the crate, discourage barking until she calms down, when she finally does (may take awhile so be patient) let her out and reward her. Also, you might try putting her in the crate and leaving the house for 5-10 minutes, and when you come in do the same routine... make her settle before you let her out. But I wouldn't recommend yelling at her while shes in there to calm her. Firm but not harsh- dont give the impression it's a place for "time-out" or her anxiety will only get worse. repetition is the biggest factor. Shepherds are brilliant dogs, be patient and she'll come around. Oh! one more thing that helped a lot w traingin mine to do anything... crate training, shake, stay... whatever... is to train AFTER a good walk. Let them expend some energy so they're able to focus a little better. They want to please... it's not a problem of the kind of crate your using. Spend the time and energy with the dog rather than looking for a steal-cage and puppy pad-lock : ) Good Luck!!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Boarding facilities?

sewoh123

I live in the DC Metro area. I have a puppy Shih Tzu and am looking for a boarding facility that has around the clock people working their. The ones that I have contacted close at 6:30 - 7:30, and there is no one there in the evening. If anyone knows of a good boarder, I can go about 10 -15 miles in either direction. We are going away in Febraury, but I would like to start looking as soon as possible.

Answer
The boarding kennel I use is absolutely staffed 24/7. The couple who own it live right there on the property and also have a small staff, so someone is always available for the dogs. It took me a long time to find it, but it really is best to keep looking until you find a safe, secure, clean place where the staff is ALWAYS there, make sure they don't lock up and leave at night, and they don't go to other jobs during the day.
I drive out of my way more than an hour to this place (in New Jersey, sorry), but it's well worth it for the peace of mind I have knowing my dogs are safe.

Is New Jersey a *GooD sTaTe* ? and its bad traits ?

Detri Thom

Well, I'm just wondering, which is "better",New Jersey or San Francisco ?.. I'm just wondering...What are the BaD traits of New jersey and San Francisco...Or would I rather CHOOSE =ALAMEDA ?But mY main question is : "Is New Jersey Good and may I know its BAD AND WIRST TRAITS ? -MoniX

Answer
Well, San Francisco and California, in general, have their 'FAULTS.' I can't recall the the last time there was an earthquake in Joisey.

New Jersey has the third highest median annual income in the USA. In 2005, it was number 1.

New Jersey is a peninsula.

New Jersey is the 5th smallest state ranking 46th in size yet it ranks 9th in population.
This makes New Jersey the most densely populated state with an average of 1,138 people per square mile.

Highlands, New Jersey has the highest elevation along the entire eastern seaboard, from Maine to Florida .

New Jersey is the only state where all of its counties are classified as metropolitan areas.

New Jersey has more race horses than Kentucky .

New Jersey has more Cubans in Union City (1 sq mi.) than Havana , Cuba .

New Jersey has the densest system of highways and railroads in the US .

New Jersey has the most diners in the world and is sometimes referred to as the "Diner Capital of the World."

Home to the less mysterious but the best Italian hot dogs and Italian sausage w/peppers and onions.

North Jersey has the most shopping malls in one area in the world, with seven major shopping malls in a 25 square mile radius.

New Jersey, NOT New York, is home to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island .

The Passaic River was the site of the first submarine ride by inventor John P. Holland .
New Jersey has 50+ resort cities & towns; some of the nation's most famous: Asbury Park, Wildwood, Atlantic City, Seaside Heights, Long Branch, Cape May.

New Jersey has the most stringent testing along our coastline for water quality control than any other seaboard state in the entire country.
New Jersey is a leading technology & industrial state and is the largest chemical producing state in the nation when you include pharmaceuticals.

Jersey tomatoes are known the world over as being the best you can buy.

Here's to New Jersey - the toast of the country! In 1642, the first brewery in America , opened in Hoboken .

New Jersey rocks! The famous Les Paul invented the first solid body electric guitar in Mahwah, in 1940.

New Jersey is home to one of the nation's busiest airports (in Newark ), Liberty International.

George Washington slept EVERYWHERE in NJ. Several important Revolutionary War battles were fought on New Jersey soil, led by General George Washington.

The light bulb, phonograph (record player), and motion picture projector, were invented by Thomas Edison either in his Menlo Park West Orange Laboratory and factory.
The first phonograph records were made in Camden , NJ (RCA).
The first seaplane was built in Keyport , NJ . and the first airmail (to Chicago) was started from Keyport, NJ.

New Jersey was home to the Miss America Pageant held in Atlantic City.

The game Monopoly, played all over the world, named the streets on its playing board after the actual streets in Atlantic City.

Atlantic City has the longest boardwalk in the world, not to mention salt water taffy.

New Jersey has the largest petroleum containment area outside of the Middle East countries. Maybe that explains our gas prices.

The first Indian reservation was in New Jersey , in the Watchung Mountains.

New Jersey has the tallest water-tower in the world. ( Union , NJ !!!)
New Jersey had the first medical center, in Jersey City
The Pulaski SkyWay, from Jersey City to Newark , was the first skyway highway.
NJ built the first tunnel under a river, the Hudson (Holland Tunnel).
The first baseball game was played in Hoboken , NJ , which is also the birthplace of Frank Sinatra.

New Jersey is home to both of " NEW YORK 'S" pro football teams!

The first radio station and broadcast was in Paterson , NJ .

The first FM radio broadcast was made from Alpine, NJ, by Maj. Thomas Armstrong.

All New Jersey natives: Sal Martorano, Jack Nicholson, Bruce Springsteen, Bon Jovi, Jason Alexander, Queen Latifah, Susan Sarandon, Connie Francis, Shaq, Judy Blume, Aaron Burr, Joan Robertson, Ken Kross, Dionne Warwick, Sarah Vaughn, Budd Abbott, Lou Costello, Alan Ginsberg, Norman Mailer, Marilynn McCoo, Flip Wilson, Alexander Hamilton, Whitney Houston, Eddie Money, Linda McElroy, Eileen Donnelly, Grover Cleveland, Woodrow Wilson, Walt Whitman, Jerry Lewis, Tom Cruise, Joyce Kilmer, Bruce Willis, Caesar Romero, Lauryn Hill, Ice-T, Nick Adams, Nathan Lane, Sandra Dee, Danny DeVito, Richard Conti, Joe Pesci, Joe Piscopo, Joe DePasquale, Robert Blake, John Forsythe, Meryl Streep, Loretta Swit, Norman Lloyd, Paul Simon, Jerry Herman, Gorden McCrae, Kevin Spacey, John Travolta, Phyllis Newman, Anne Morrow Lindbergh, Eva Marie Saint, Elisabeth Shue, Zebulon Pike, James Fennimore Cooper, Admiral Wm.Halsey,Jr., Dave Thomas (Wendy's),
William Carlos Williams, Ray Liotta, Robert Wuhl, Bob Reyers, Paul Robeson, Ernie Kovacs, Joseph Macchia, Kelly Ripa, and, of course, Francis Albert Sinatra and "Uncle Floyd" Vivino.

The Great Falls in Paterson , on the Passaic River , is the 2nd highest waterfall on the East Coast of the US .

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Transport dog crates - How can I choose the right one ?

astrauskis

Can anyone give me some info how can I choose the right transport dog crate for my dog ?

Answer
Choose a crate that is 1 1/2 times the length of your dog when fully grown. Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around and lie down in the crate comfortably. If it's for a puppy, a partition should be placed so that she has 1 1/2 times her length to move around. Some crates come with a divider panel that can be adjusted to the different growth stages. If you prefer, you can choose one without dividers and make your own out of something indestructible, such as plywood.

Size the crate according to your dog's breed. The following is a good guide: Extra small: Chihuahua, Pomeranian, Shih Tzu Small: Boston Terrier, Jack Russell, Yorkie, Maltese Medium: Cairn Terrier, Cocker Spaniel, Llasa Apso, Dachshund Large: Basset Hound, Bulldog, Welsh Corgi, Shar-Pei XLarge: Chow, Collie, Dalmation XXLarge: German Shepherd, Greyhound, Golden/Labrador Retriever

Crate training Puppy?

lexi

So I just got an 8 week old black lab on monday, I introduced hin to his crate since day one. The first night he slept fine, he only woke me up once to pee outside. But the second night was horrible. He cried and howled abd screamed the WHOLE night. His crate is next to my bed btw. He has blankets and toys In his crate. It is so hard to ignore his howling and crying it breaks my heart but it must be done. Any tips on how to either stop him from crying or tips on how to ignore hin?

Answer
1 - The crate should never be used for punishment. That is the fastest way to guarantee your pup will hate the crate. Remember that fact when you are tempted to force the pup in the crate when you are upset with him/her for making a pile, puddle or tearing up something. Remember when the pup does behavior like that, you failed to keep close enough watch on the pup. 2 - The crate should be large enough that when your dog is grown there will be room to sit, stand, turn around and stretch out fully.You may want to get a smaller crate for when she is a pup or get a crate that comes with a partition to block off a small area for the pup. Don't allow him room enough to turn a corner of the crate into a toilet. 3 - The crate should be an inviting place. Dogs are den animals, they like a den to call their own. It is their safe place, where they go to chill out, to take a nap. Or to get away from something that may be scares them a little, like the vacuum, thunder or arguing humans. Some dogs like a blanket or large towel draped over their crate to give it that cave effect. Keep the crate with the family,not stuck in the basement or garage. Dogs are pack animals and her family is now her pack. While the pup is being house trained do not use a thick absorbent pad for the bottom of the crate. You don't want something that will easily soak up all the pee. Maybe just use a towel at first. When the pup is no longer eliminating in his crate then you can put in more comfortable bedding. Most dogs like a blanket as they can bumble it up, do their nesting. Put a good chew toy in the crate. One they can not get chunks off. Put a couple of treats in the crate, make it inviting. Praise the pup for going in. 4 - Lure your pup into his crate, do not push him in. Forcing her in could cause a dislike of the crate as it will be a negative experience. After the pup has went in and out of the crate a few times and seems okay with it, not apprehensive, you can close the door when she goes in. Leave it closed, with you in the room, for about 10 minutes. Open the door when the pup is not whining. If he starts whining, wait for the whining to stop before you open the door. If you let her out while protesting you will quickly teach "whine and you come out". Not the message you want to send. As the pup gets used to the 10 minutes add another 10, and so on. When the pup is comfortable with short stays in the crate start leaving the room for short intervals 5 - While being house trained your pup should not have the run of the house. The pup should either be right with you so you can see what he is doing or crated. Some people leash the pup to them.If you are in the kitchen and the pup is in the front room, don't blame the pup for that pile or puddle you find. You were not watching close enough. Put the pup where she can not see you and clean up the mess with an enzyme cleaner. If the pup sees you cleaning the mess it will give the idea that is your job. It's okay if they see you pick up outside, but not inside. The enzyme cleaners eliminate the odor, not cover it up. You want to eliminate the smell. You can't cover it to where the dog can't smell it. Just because you can't smell it doesn't mean the dog can't. 6 - As you, and the pup, progresses make sure you use the crate some when you are home, not just when leaving the house. When you do have to leave give the pup a good long walk so she can do the deeds then have him go in the crate about 10 minutes before you go. Do not do long good-byes, reassuring the pup she will be okay. It will have the reverse effect telling the pup something is wrong. When you come home, no big immediate greeting. Ignore the pup for 10 minutes before letting him out. You don't want the pup thinking your coming and going is a big deal. 7 - To help reinforce that the crate is a good experience feed the pup her meals in the crate. Be sensitive to the pups needs, don't leave him in the crate longer than that little bladder can be controlled. At night you will have to get up and take the pup out. They can only hold their bladder for roughly 1 hour for each month of age. A 3 month old pup can hold herself roughly 3 hours. Rule of thumb, some maybe a little longer, some maybe a little less. The smaller the breed, the smaller the bladder. Do not leave the pup longer than he can wait, then be upset because there is a mess. Your fault, not the pups. 8 - Teach your pup a verbal command for getting in the crate. You pick how involved you want the command to be. Remember to when
giving a command, any command, preface it with the pups name. Do not repeat commands. That gives your dog the choice of when to respond. When she goes in give a treat and praise. 9 - Do not leave toys in the crate they can chunk pieces off and choke on. Remember rawhides are choke hazards, if you allow them do not leave the pup unattended with them. Remove your dogs collar while crated.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

MY DOG ATE MY COUCH!!!?

Eddie Pola

So i come home from work yesterday and i see stuffing everywhere, to my suprice i see a HUGE whole on my brand new couch! the couch is about 3 months old. i was so pissed i think my dog sensed it, he went straight to his room and layed on his bed. i took one of the couch an threw it at him and told him NO! i dont understand why he likes to destroy EVERYTHING. i made him his own bed. the guys from lowes help me, and he chewed the corners of the wood. he also ripped out the memory foam. i cant remember how many shoes he has taken from me just to bring it outside. i dont hit my dog nor wont give him away but i dont understand i work 8 hours a day. my brother who lives up stares from me takes him out and leaves him outside for about 2 hours around 12 o'clock, brings him back in. i come at 230 and find the place trashed. he has about 20 chew toys about 40 bones. i just spent over $100 on bones and treats before i got home. he is almost 2 years old bloodhound mix they say with a boxer but no sure. will he ever come down? would he ever stop chewing my stuff and start using his bones. and DIGGING the LAWN.? dont get me wrong hes a smart dog. you can tell he be thinking a thousand things in his huge head.
what the hell, that makes no sense. my dog does take him out i can see because he's toys are all over the backyard wen i come home, and we go running everyday, we run so much he cant even keep up. and everyone with dogs work at lest a 8 hour shift, you can survive work part time job

Answer
I had a dog that ate an over stuffed chair that belonged to the landlord and not to me. Needless to say that was a dicey conversation. I was almost kicked out of house.

Another time, one of my dogs tried to burn the house down when she jumped upon the stove and turned one of the burners on. I too had lots of toys, etc. laying around.


I too have to work full-time. If I didn't I wouldn't be able to have pets or anything else for that matter. Like you I do either let them outside at around noon or have someone else do so. Unlike you, I crate or confine my dogs when I leave

Let me tell you a crate will save you a lot of money. I didn't believe in them at first when I was young and dumb. We never used crates when I was growing up. When I think back to those times, my mother was home 90% of the time. Our lives are different now. Most of us have to work in order to support the household. A crate is about the only way to keep a destructive dog nondestructive when you leave him unless you leave him outside when you are gone. That also has its own list of issues.

so a crate and a large amount of exercise before you leave and after work will help you a ton.

Advice on dog peeing in the house?

Slinky

If you can't answer all of my questions, could you please direct me to a site that could? Thanks.

I have a miniature poodle and he won't stop peeing in the house. I also have a standard poodle and he's a little better housetrained but sometimes I guess he just wants to join the little one.
Everytime we see poop or pee on the floor, we grab the little one, stick his nose in it, spank him, and yell "NO!". Then, we put him in a crate in the garage with a mzzle on, since he whines and barks.
However, as much as it seems to shake him, he just won't stop. We even installed a doggy door into our fenced in backyard so that he could pee out there. He knows that he can pee there since we used to walk them around back there, but he'll go outside and come back in and pee.
I always wipe the messes with Kids&Pets, a cleaner that specializes in removing stains. It works really well and has a strong scent of cherries, but the dog always comes back and pees.
Can you give me any solutions?

Answer
First off, the way you are dealing with reprimanding him is not going to get you anywhere you want to be with this problem. I don't mean this in a finger pointing way, I just mean to let you know so that you don't continue to exhaust yourself without getting any results.

If you are not able to use a firm voice and say "NO" when the dog is actually PEEING (not later on after he finishes or when you come home to find peeps or poops on the floor), the dog does not have the ability to smell his pee on the carpet later on after it happened, realize what he did an hour ago, and then understand why he is being punished. Dogs have a short memory span. Unless you can catch him in the act, any punishment like this will only disrupt the trust your dog has in you. He does not have the mental ability to connect the cause and effect.

If you can catch him in the act, say NO firmly, and IMMEDIATELY put a leash on him and take him outside yourself. Walk him around until he peeps again, and give lots and lots of praise and encouragement.

Try taking him out every hour on the hour for an entire day (a weekend would be great for this--set aside a few days when you can be home, and you'll be able to nip this problem in the bud). The next day space out your potty breaks to every 2 - 2 1/2 hours. The third day, as long as all is going well and you are having minimal accidents, if any at all, space it out to 3-4 hours between trips outside.

During this training time, do not rely on the doggie door and sending him out on his own--you need to be right there with him to give lots of praise when he goes outside on his own and using a leash puts you in control and tells your dog that you are in charge.

Because you other dog is exhibiting the same, however less often, behavior, treat this dog the same way with the same routine. However, be sure to take each of them outside on their own for each break. It will be a lot of work, but after about 3 days time, most dogs will be on a regular routine and will have very, very few mistakes, if any at all, from there on out.

I rescue dogs, and many come in with major potty issues. It takes a few days, but it can be easily fixed with some diligent work by you. Its not hard, but it does take a time commitment. I rescue bulldogs (and saint bernards), in particular, who are notoriously hard to train (it takes, on average, about 3 times as long to train a bulldog as it does to train any other breed).

During this training period, I would suggest switching cleaners for any mistakes in the house, because your dogs already associate the cherry scented cleaner to one they can pee on freely (even though that is not the intention). Try a brand called FOLEX. It is available at Wal-mart, Lowes, Home Depot, Kmart, etc. It is a white spray bottle with purple writing. Safe to use with children and pets, and it takes stains out like a champ! This will keep your dogs from associating any carpet smells with doing their previous bad pee pee behavior in the house. You can always go back to the Kids&Pets stuff later on (say, after 2 weeks of perfect potty behavior) when the dogs are trained.

There is no doubt that this will take a lot of time. Set aside a weekend that you have off and can do things around the house. Don't go out to dinner, don't have friends over, just plan to read magazines, clean bathrooms, organize closets, or whatever you can do that you can pick and put down easily so that you are always ready to take your dogs out at the right time. Use the kitchen timer to remind you when to take them out, as it is very important to be on a regular schedule. When you take them out, they may not go every time (since you'll be taking them out at least every hour for the first day), but walk them in the same pattern each time, so they know that when they go out and they pee and you praise them, the routine will always be the same. They will come to understand this routine as "potty time" and will get better at doing it as soon as they go out, and will wait until the next time they go out before they use the bathroom and not do it in the house between outdoor breaks.

If you have any other questions or need clarification, just let me know. I've done this so many times, its become a completely auto-pilot routine, so I may have missed something or made this more confusing than it needs to be. I'll be happy to clarify anything you might be tripped up about. Good luck and I hope it all works out for you soon!

(PS--Be sure to rule out any possible infections that may be causing this issue. Sometimes when dogs have a UTI, they aren't able to calculate bathroom breaks very well, and end up going in the house because all of their signals are a bit crossed with the infection wreaking havoc on their system. A quick check with the vet can rule this out.)

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Getting a dog, would this be ok?

bella

hey well i plan on adopting a small dog. most likely an adult dog. i have a alot of free time on my hands except i go to school mondays wednedsays and fridays morning im only gone for about 2-4 hours max. so would it be cruel to leave the dog in his crate for that long? how do people handle their dogs when they work and they cant trust it alone in the house? thanx in advance!
Racecars i have nothing against big dogs, they are adorable i think, its just i dont have a yard just a small tiled patio. Plus my grandmother lives with us and she has 3 spoiled cats, so leaving a bigger dog with the three cats does make me a little nervous lol.

Answer
Well done you for adopting firstly.

As to the question IMO I think the time thing is fine for an adult dog so long as the crate is big enough for him to stretch out turn round etc and has a water dish in it.

My own dogs are all adults and rescues and they basically sleep when Im not around, however when they first camehome they were crated to ensure they were safe round the other dogs and kept calm.

Can I be really nosey though and ask why a small dog? There are some big dogs out there that can be perfect for leaving up to 4 hours and will just slob on the couch all day and depending on your lifestyle could be perfect.

Edit: Fair enough Bella my breed certainly wouldnt be the one for you and the cats!

Would like to say its so refreshing to have someone on here ask good questions and do the research before getting a dog and again good on you for adopting an older dog - hope you get the right one for you x

best way to get dogs apart who are fighting?

mumsie4

If two dogs are fighting each other which is the best way to get them apart, without being bitten?

Answer
Stopping a Dog Fight

Be careful not to put your focus on learning how to break up dog fights. If you have dogs who are fighting, the fights need to be immediately stopped by management and possibly remedial training. You donât want one more fight to happen.

Punishment escalates fights and teaches the dogs nothing at all. So donât punish either dog. Hitting or even yelling while dogs are fighting (or just fussing) can escalate it. Sometimes the best thing to do is step back, stay quiet, and wait. If itâs over in 10 seconds with no injuries, thatâs a fuss, not a fight. There may be a lot of hope for remedial training.

Keep your hands off fighting dogs. Grabbing them is how people get bitten. Perhaps you are willing to take that risk for yourself in order to protect the dogs. But itâs worse for the dogs if you get bitten, too! Hereâs why:

1. You are very likely to escalate the fight and set the stage for worse fights.

2. Your injury gets the dogs in more legal trouble, as well as more disfavor with other members of your family who will play a role in deciding the dogsâ fate.

3. If you are injured, you may not be able to take care of the dogs. If itâs bad enough, you may not even be able to go to work to earn the money to feed them and pay for their medical care. Dog bites can put you in the hospital, from infection as well as damage.

Rather than using your body, separate fighting dogs with physical barriers. Different things work for different dogs. Some things to try include:

1. Water spray from a hoseâor maybe drop the hose between them.

2. Slam a door or make another noise as loud as you can. Try not to break the door.

3. Get a closed door between the dogs (good reason not to break the door when you slam it).

4. Pop open a large, automatic umbrella and get it between them.

5. Block them from each other with a folding chair or anything else you can use without getting your body between them.

6. Spray them with whatever your veterinarian recommends for the purpose.

7. Get a fence between the dogs, or get at least one of them into a crate or dog exercise pen.

8. If you know how and have help, you might need to pry the jaws of a clamped-on dog open. A sturdy wooden stick on each side may make it possible to do this without injuring the dog. In one case, the people separating the dogâs jaws from a smaller dog broke a broomstick and used the two halves.

Infection from bite wounds that can look minor is a risk. After any fight, a dog with injury needs to be checked by a veterinarian, even if injuries donât look serious.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How to handle female/female dog dominance issues?

Q. We have a siberian husky female dog (about a year old). We recently purchased her 3 year old mother from the breeder. We've been slowly introducing them.

During a walk, they are perfectly fine unless they are face to face. Then the mom shows dominance (deep growl).

When they are in the house they are fine. The mom is still new to our home so she has found safety in the kennel. When the younger dog approaches the kennel the mom growls. We haven't allowed both unleashed in the home yet. It just doesn't seem appropriate yet. The younger dog shys away from mom's territories (her crate, her walking path, etc.).

Establishing the dominant dog is tricky since we've had the daughter longer & the mom is fairly new (one day in our home).

Both my fiance and I are strong leaders & are experienced with dogs (just not two female dogs).

What is the best way to handle this new hierarchy?

Answer
First you should not allow one dog to be dominant over another dog in the household. period. YOU need to be the dominant one and establish guidelines for what behavior is acceptable and what is not. The dogs are lower ranking pack members that are all on an equal plane.

Second, this is a tricky situation because both dogs are related. You will have more aggression between siblings and parent/offspring then with any other combination of breed and unrelated dog. This is becuase it is not natural for dogs that closely related to live together in a pack, as inbreeding would weaken them. In the wild, once the puppies are weaned, the alpha dog begins to push them out from the pack so they can start their own. Huskies are a breed with a strong, natural instinct, so this may take some experienced handling skills to overcome.

Growling should never be allowed. period. I have three dogs and NONE of them are allowed to show dominance or "ugly" behavior towards eachother.

It is hard to give advice because I'm not sure what you are doing to establish routine, structure, and discipline when they do a behavior that is not allowed.

This is how i integrade foster dogs into my home, or how I work with others who have dog on dog issues.

1. PACK WALK is SO essential to the mental and physicall needs of your dogs. "Dogs who walk together, lay together". Pack Walking is a working walk with you walking both dogs (must be in heal position, no pulling or lagging) together. Minimum 45 minutes, I'd walk longer with Huskies. Do not allow the dogs to stop and sniff anything. This is a bonding process that drives home the point that you are leader, they are the followers, yet the three of you walk as one...pack.

2. Feeding time. Teach both dogs to Sit and Wait for their food. Place dishes for the dogs while in Sit. and do not allow them to eat until you give the OK command. This is another strong point that drives home the fact that YOU are dominant, top dog who supplies the food and decides when it is acceptable to eat.

3. Doorways. Never allow the dogs to forge ahead of you through a narrow opening. This is disrespect in dog language. Leaders always pass through first. Teach them to sit and wait when the front door is open (8 feet back from door) and that they are not allowed to cross the doorway until they are invited. This is telling the dogs that you have ownership over the house and walks. They will respect you for it.

When you are the leader your dogs will work to please you and want to. When the boundries and expectations are clear, you will have very little growling and other behavioral issues. I would not allow the mother dog to growl while in her crate. She is possessing ownership over the crate and claming it as her own. YOU need be the owner of the crate that you share with a lower ranking pack member. If she growls in the crate I'd remove the crate completely and take them for a pack walk. This will make their bond as dogs stronger and they'll be less likely to act out towards eachother.

Good Luck! Contact an AKC training club in your area and get those Huskies involved in something! (obedience, agility, rally, weight pull ,etc)

How much did you payed for your dog/s?

Radoom von

If you have a dog, or dogs, that you acquired from a reputable breeder or ... anywhere else--Just wanna see how much did you spent for your dog. Gonna buy a Doberman and a Great Dane, my favorite breeds, and both are at least 1000-3000 â¬... money which I do not have.

Answer
The purchase price is only the beginning. I hope you are looking a breeders that are member of breed clubs like Great Dane Club of America and health test their dogs. Even health testing doesn't guarantee against other health problems that pop up. Bloat is very common. It's over 2000 for surgery.

Dane pups do not need 4 series of puppy vaccinations. Way to many for their system. Over vaccination can cause some serious health problems. Please do some research.

This is probably more info then you wanted. :)

The Estimated Cost Of Adopting A Great Dane
by Renee Broden

Here is a cost sheet that I made up for puppy buyers and rescue adopters.

Of course you can improvise on some things and not spend as much on certain items, but it gives you a good idea. Remember everything is at a much larger scale then a small dog. Some items can be purchased at garage & yard sales.

Some things listed may be more or less in certain areas. I wrote this a few years ago, so I'm sure some things are more expensive today.

Of course people are not going to run out and buy everything on the list. It just gives you an idea of how much things add up for owning a big dog. Please do your homework.

How much will a Great Dane Puppy Cost?
Basic Cost to Buy a puppy Show Potential Puppy...$850 to $2,500 some are even $5000.

Companion Pup..... $500 to $1,200 Rescue - usually adult......$250-500. Some harl pets are up to 2000 that come
from champion lines.

*note: prices vary according to region, color, kennel, gender, age,etc......

Cost of shipping a puppy if out of state using Delta Cargo for a 6month old in a 700 series kennel. NY to CA $900. Smaller Kennels can be shipped counter to counter for less then $200 one way. Pets must have a least one parvo vaccine and must have a Health Certificate and exam before Flying. Check your airlines regulations. Not all airlines ship pets.

Vet Costs:
Pet Ins........30+ a month. Will save you some money on Vaccinations, exams, x-rays & emergencies.
Heartworm pills .....$90
Puppy checkups and vaccines ....$100
Fecal test to test for parasites worm prescription from the vet.......
Worming paste from the local feed store (Safeguard)...$6.50
Tapeworm shot ......
Routine vet care - average ..$250
Advantage Flea and Tick control......
Spay/neuter ................$200+
Cropping (if not paid by breeder)..............$250 and up
Bloat Surgery........$1200+

Puppy Training:

Baby Gate............ $40
Collars, at least 2 will cost.... $25
Six foot leash ......$15
Crate (Size 700#) ...$134
Big dog wire crate 37 wide x 54 deep x 45 high.......$239.95
Crate Pad (for 700#)....... $50
ID tag...............$ 4
Dog license (pet=15 intact=40)....$15
Nature's Miracle, stain remover........$17.95 gallon
Obedience Classes ........$250
Handling Classes $5 for each class (daily cost)
Pooper scooper......... $18
Anti-chew spray -Bitter Apple.......$4.99
Rolled up newspaper...... 50 cents.
Smack yourself with it when your puppy piddles on the floor. You were NOT watching!

Puppy Feeding Supplies:
Dog Bowls (2)....... $30
Raised double bowl holder......$20 or use plant stands 9+
Premium adult dog food ($2.00 per day)
Innova dog cost about $32+ for a large bag.
Eagle Pack dog food $20-35
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid or ester) 500mg...100 TAB $6.95
Glucosamine Liquid, powder or Capsules 500mg
MSM 500mg

Grooming Supplies:
Nail Grinder, Dremmel ...$60
Nail clippers..... $10.00 for large dog
Shampoos and bathing supplies .......$40
Super Groom Message petting tool......$7.00
Brushes......... $5-10
Tooth Brush.............. 2.95
Tooth Paste...........3.95
Extras Toys (4 toys) .........$40+++
Large Raw beef bones from the Butcher......2.00
Fencing............ $500-1000++
Books about great Danes.....$20each
Boarding 2 weeks minimum.............$280 (usually around $10-$12 a day.)
Cleaning Rent rug shampooer twice a year ......$500
Cleaning supplies......$75

Ear Taping Supplies :
2 People & 2 glasses of wine! Trust me you're gonna need it! :o)
Foam Backer rod -(Insulation for pipes) From Home Depot or Masonry stores.
Tape-Zonas Tape or Elastikon Tape by Johnson and Johnson. 1- 1 1/2inch...............1.89
Sharp and Bandage scissors
Skin Bond- Helps everything stick to the ear better.
Medi-Sol - Adhesive Remover. Goo Gone works as well. Helps to remove
tape and Skin Bond easier. 4 OZ. $11.95
Alcohol-To clean pups ears inside and out. Cotton Balls and Q-tips- Use with Alcohol to clean ears.
Astringent Ear powder-If your puppies ears are wet inside. Helps reduce ear odor. This is good for uncropped ears as well.

Misc.
Treats............$100
Bedding for Dane size.....$30-90
You will need more then 4 toys ....$200
Chewed up reading glasses ....$200
A Suburban/Excursion to transport Danes ...........$45,000 (or other large vehicle)
New landscaping...........$2,500+++
New Furniture after the old ones get chewed up
Remote controls & Game controllers.
Eye glasses.
Leather designer shoes & purses.
New Carpet
Carpenter work, replacing chewed up decks and wood around the house.
Paint.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

difference between kennel and puppy mill....?

bribri

if i were to have lets say maybe 3 or 4 dogs and i bread them to sell the puppies is that a puppy mill or some one breeding dogs... or is it the condition of the breeding... or maybe the health.. do i have to have a special lisence to breed any kind of dog of any number... what if i have 50 dogs and breed them if i kept them all fead and up to date on vet visits is that a puppy mill or a kennel..... and no a kennel isnt only a place where you take your dogs when you go on vacation... there are such things as kennels that breed certian types of dogs..... any coments
ok guys just so u know i am going to school to be a vet tech and then im going back to be a vet... im not all in the dark on this one

Answer
SPAY OR NEUTER!!!!!!!!

1.Not all dogs are built to be bred.

Most pets, although lovable, are not of breeding quality because they have genetic defects and other problems that should not be perpetuated. People who breed dogs for a living are very careful about choosing which dogs they will breed together based on physical characteristics and behavior. Some people decide that it would be fun to breed and just start looking for a dog that has the proper equipment and is willing. This can be a huge mistake.

2. There are already too many dogs in the world.

Breeding your pet is a serious endeavor and should not be taken lightly. There are far too many pets that end up in shelters without good homes. If your breed of dog has large litters, what will you do if you are unable to sell the puppies? Do you really want to contribute to the massive problem of pet overpopulation?

3. Dogs that arenât neutered face serious health risks.

Consider your dogâs own health. Male dogs that are neutered are less likely to be hit by cars, because unaltered males have a very strong urge to roam and find a fertile female. Male dogs will go over or under fences, through doors and windows, and will pull leashes out of unsuspecting hands in quest of a mate.

Additionally, neutering greatly reduces the incidence of prostatic disease and eliminates testicular cancer in males, and cuts down on breast cancer in females. The possibility of uterine infections is also eliminated by spaying.

4. Female dogs used for breeding may have unwelcome visitors.

If you spay your dog, you will not have to chase persistent male dogs out of your yard. Also, you wonât have to worry about cleaning up messy heat cycles.

5. Be prepared to work like a dog when your pet goes into labor.

Many people do not realize just how much work and expense is involved with letting dogs have puppies. Getting the mother through pregnancy is the easy part, but labor is truly laborious for dog and owner alike. Dogs usually decide to have their puppies at the most inconvenient times, like 2:00 in the morning when veterinary hospitals are closed.

If your pet develops a problem during delivery, it means at least the expense of an emergency call. If the complications are life threatening, you must be prepared, especially if you have a breed of dog that has a broad head like a pug, to pay for an emergency C-section. It is very distressing to have to leave home in the middle of the night, worry about your pet, get a large veterinary bill and then try to explain to your boss why you cannot possibly come to work the next day.

6. It can be devastating when the puppies die.

There is always the prospect of the loss of some or all of the puppies. A neonatal mortality rate of 10 to 30 percent is considered normal. And, itâs easy to lose a puppy if you donât have the experience or knowledge to care for newborns. Because puppies are not able to regulate their own body temperature initially, you may need to supplement their environment with heat.

7. Not all dogs make the best mothers.

If your female doesnât have enough milk to feed all its puppies, or decides that feeding her offspring is not her cup of tea, it will be your responsibility to provide them with nutrition every three to four hours, round the clock. And how many mouths are there to feed?

Another aspect of puppy care that you can look forward to if your dog wants nothing to do with her brood is the manual stimulation of urination and defecation. Until puppies are three weeks old they will only void if directly stimulated. If mom isnât doing this, you will need to take a moistened cotton ball and gently rub the urogenital area until the babes begin to urinate and pass stool. Failure to do this can result in some pretty unhappy puppies.

8. Good luck seeing a profit!

Your last responsibility before they go to a new home is to have them dewormed, vaccinated, and examined by a veterinarian. You will want to make sure that you have budgeted a sufficient amount for this purpose. Needless to say, if you decide to breed mixed breed puppies, you have no opportunity to recoup this expense.

Puppies are a lot of fun and it can be very exciting when they are born, but more often than not, owners find themselves in over their heads when they decide to endeavor into breeding.

Article republished here with permission from VetCentric.com
Copyright(c) 2000 by VetCentric.com

SPAY OR NEUTER!!!!!!!!

how can you make dogs stop eating poop?

Karen

will my dogs are 2 years old and they have been eating poop and we never do anything when we see them eating poop we say no and hit the with news paper and we gave them pinapple but it does not seem to be working i need help fast my mom is thinking of giving them away because of that

Answer
Background and principles:

* Coprophagia is a condition that compels dogs to consume feces.

* Why does the dog engage in this habit? A dog may ingest fecal matter for various reasons:

He may be hungry and has no access to real food.

You may be feeding a food lacking in sufficient nutrients and/or not appropriate for your particular dog.

When a dog is fed low-quality and/or inappropriate dog food, he feels compelled to eat more of it in an attempt to satisfy his body's craving for nutrients. As a result, the dog is ingesting excess food, and a large proportion of the food goes through his digestive system undigested. The resulting stools smell and look fairly close to the food that the dog previously consumed, so the dog tries to consume the 'food' again. This is not just a vulgar habit; it is a cry for health. The dog needs a better diet that will enable him to absorb the nutrients his body needs.

When dogs consume feces from other animals, they may be seeking minerals lacking in their regular dog food.

The dog may be consuming feces out of boredom, loneliness, anxiety or stress.

A dog who is confined to a kennel, chained, or restricted to a small yard or other space may eat his feces to occupy himself or clean his personal space. This dog needs to be exercised and played with several times a day.

Some breeds instinctively like to carry things in their mouths. Picking up feces and carrying it around may signal that the dog needs more daily exercise, mental stimulation and interaction with his people.

A yard or kennel where stools are allowed to pile up may prompt a dog to 'clean up' his stools. Be sure to clean the dog's area every day, and preferably right after the dog eliminates.

The emotional stress of being left alone or restricted to a small area for long periods of time without the companionship of the caregiver can result, for some dogs, in the eating of his own feces.

Internal parasites may lead a dog to consume feces, because the parasites can leach nutrients from the host animal's system. Thus, the dog will feel unusually hungry.

If a dog is punished for defecating in the house, she may eat her feces in order to hide the evidence and avoid punishment. Typically, when a dog defecates indoors, it is because she feels unable to hold it. It is a myth that dogs poop indoors for spite; spite is a human, not a canine, emotion. More responsive management and training by the owner is the solution, not punishment. Also realize that elimination in the house can be a sign of a health or medical problem, from parasites to a serious condition.

* Sometimes a mother dog will eat the feces of her pups out of a natural instinct to hide evidence of her offspring from predators.

* It is common for many puppies to taste and try to eat feces. Some researchers even suggest that some components of feces actually can stimulate the brain and immune function in young animals. However, that possible benefit is far outweighed by the health risks of ingesting excrement. Prevention is the wisest practice. Don't let the pups indulge, and they won't develop a taste for excrement ... and won't develop this habit.

* Prevention is better than treatment in mature dogs as well, since coprophagia is usually self-rewarding, meaning that the act of ingesting the feces is satisfying to the dog so he is likely to repeat the undesired behavior.

Solutions:

* Change the dog's diet. Buy or prepare only nutritious, quality food that is formulated for the dog's age, breed and any medical issues.

* For the dog who may be hungry, try feeding him a little more, and make sure you feed a quality, nutritious food that is appropriate for the age and type of canine.

* Take the dog to your veterinarian for an examination for underlying medical and health problems, parasites and other problems that may be compelling him to eat feces.

* Clean up after your pet, right after he goes - before he has a chance to eat his poop. Stopping access is one key to stopping this habit.

* Walk the dog on leash so that you are in a better position to tell the dog 'leave it' and to physically keep the dog from trying to sniff and eat stools. Always praise your dog for listening. You can also reinforce the verbal praise with tidbits carried in a pouch.

* As soon as the dog starts approaching excrement, tell her 'nah-ah-ahhh' or 'leave it!', and distract her with praise supported with a treat, clicker click, playtime or other action or activity that is appealing to the dog. This will convey the idea that it is more rewarding to attend to you than to attend to poop. As soon as she turns her attention to her, praise her ('Good dog!') and reward her. A wise practice is to always carry appealing tidbit treats, a favorite toy, clicker - something you can always use to effectively gain your dog's attention and reinforce desired behaviors. Once you get her attention, give her something posi

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Yorkie puppy afraid of other dogs?

phlips

HI there! I have this awesome bold yorkie who is very playful around humans. But that's about the only thing he lives up to in his fine breed. Yorkies are supposed to be hunters, but if he saw a rat, he would probably freak out. He is virtually afraid of his own shadow. We try to introduce him to dogs of all sizes. He was even afraid of a dog smaller than him, still a yorkie. I suggested to my parents we take him to a training class to socialize him, but my paaren't arent up to that cuz moneys tight because of gas and everything, and im only thirteen and there is nowhere in walking range with a training class. I am not joking i think one of the reasons that he is so afraid of everything is because he was fixed...is this possible? Also he had previous owners and im afraid they spoiled him to the point where he was not ever taken out or anything. Also he barely walks anywhere. I take him outside but he only walks down to the backyard, which is good for me right now because i broke my foot and my sister is way lazy, but he will never walk even around the block. I walked him around it twice and thought that he would get used to the idea but he iisn'tcatching on. And i know this is even more to ask but do you have any tips on potty training?
Thanks a great deal in advanced :)

Answer
Sounds like he never had any socialization. You just need to let him see lots of other dogs and have good things happen when he sees them.

To do this, I would suggest you or someone start walking him. When you see another dog it is okay to stay pretty far away (far away enough that your dog is calm) and just give your dog some treats. Point to the other dog and say some happy things like 'That is a nice dog!'. If the other person tries to let your dog "meet" their dog then step away with your dog and ask them to please keep their dog away. Say you are training or that your dog doesn't like other dogs. Don't force your dog to get sniffed by other dogs- this will only make it worse.

Start by working at a far distance from other dogs and after months pass work up to getting closer. When you decide he is ready to start sniffing other dogs make sure it is a calm, friendly dog!

I doubt that it is because he is fixed. Far more likely that it is because he was never taken to classes, socialized, never had good experiences with other dogs.

If he doesn't want to walk just do very, very short and very, very fun walks. Walk half way down your block or just right in front of your house and give him lots of treats. Take a toy or throw a ball for him to chase short distances. After you have walked for like 5 minutes just take him back inside and ignore him/don't play with him (right away, it is fine to play with him later). This way he will start thinking that walks are fun time and going back home is boring time.

Potty training: Crate when you can't watch him. Keep him on a leash that is tied to you the rest of the time and watch him all the time. If he starts going just calmly say "outside." and pick him up or lead him outside. Always give rewards and praise for pottying outside. My dog is 1.5 years old and I still praise him EVERY SINGLE TIME he potties outside!

Will getting another dog stop mine from barking?

ap06e

I have a 10 month old pom a poo who barks as soon as I leave a room, crate him or leave the house to go to school or work. It's nonstop and he doesn't respond to any sort of commands when he is barking in his cage. However I've been staying at my parents for the past 2 weeks and they have a chocolate lab mix about 6 months old. Their dog barely barks and when I put my dog in the same penned in area he seems to calm down and hardly makes any noise at all. I'm considering getting another puppy to keep mine company when I move into my house and I've been looking into getting a yorkie. My only concern is that most toy breeds can be pretty yippy, do you think this would solve my problem or make it worse?

Answer
I don't think it will help if you get a yorkie. Yorkies are also yappy dogs and instead of stopping the barking you will probably just get more of it.

Pomeranians and poodles are both barky little dogs, so you have a bit of a tough dog to stop barking, but by the way you are explaining it, it sounds like your dog has separation anxiety which can be fixed. You may need to hire a trainer to help you solve this problem because it does sound quite severe (since you can't leave a room without your dog getting anxious). I'll try to give you a few pointers to start you off though. Your dog is already crate trained which is great. Try crating your dog in the same room that you are. Maybe in the kitchen while you are making dinner, or in the living room while you are watching tv. This will help your dog see that you aren't leaving him when he is in his crate. You can also give him things to distract him from being in his crate such as a kong filled with peanut butter. This will keep him busy so that he doesn't even notice you are there (or not there). This is all making the crate a positive place for your dog. You can also try putting your dog's crate in a room where he can't see you leaving, and make sure you don't say hello or goodbye to him when you come and go (this reinforces separation anxiety). You may need to stop paying attention to your dog (no talking to him or touching him) 20 minutes before you leave. This way your leaving isn't so eventful for him.

Separation anxiety is when your dog isn't confident enough on his own, so you may also want to start doing things that make him more confident to be his own dog. Start with some basic obedience. This is a time where you interact with your dog, but you aren't physically touching your dog so he has to do something for himself. Also, even though your dog is small, try not to pick him up too often so that he learns to deal with things on his own on the ground. Agility is also a fun sport that is great for confidence building, and an active pom a poo would probably really enjoy the experience.

Good luck with your puppy and if you do still plan on getting another dog, look for one that is possibly older, and a quieter breed.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers