Before any breeder breeds their dogs, what do they actually NEED to do 1st?

Toop

Can someone give me a step by step manual? Just to let you know, I am NOT breeding my dogs but I would like to know what a breeder has to go though 1st before they actually think about breeding dogs. The reason why I want to know is because someone told me that good breeding is not cheap.
Oh and I want to get a quality-bred Schnauzer or Golden Retriever once I move to my new house in a few months time. I do not want to get from a backyard breeder.

Answer
Your first step is to call the American Kennel Club for a referral to the national and local clubs for your breed. Join the club to meet and learn from other serious breeders. Subscribe to dog magazines, especially the national magazine for your breed and the AKC GAZETTE. Read everything you can find pertaining not only to your breed, but all breeds. Youâll need an education in all canine subjects, medical concerns, anatomy and structure, behavior, training and even some psychology for working with the owners of your new puppies. Go to dog shows where you can see and touch other examples of your breed and learn what makes them better than average.

One of the most important parts of your education is learning what the âbreed standardâ means. Each AKC-recognized breed has a written standard of perfection. It describes what that breed should look, move and act like. Serious breeders constantly measure, test and compare against this standard before deciding whether their chosen dog is good enough to breed. They show their dogs in order to compare them with others of high quality. Standards arenât easily understood in one reading. It takes study and exposure to hundreds of dogs before you can really see why certain characteristics are important and whether or not your dog has them to such a degree that breeding it would improve the overall quality of the entire breed. Thatâs the real goal of serious dog breeding and the ONLY reason to breed any dog - to produce animals that are exceptional in appearance, health, temperament and trainability.

It can take years to gain this kind of knowledge and along the way, you might learn that the dog you have is a fine pet, but not good breeding stock. If so, youâre in good company. Some of todayâs most successful breeders began by finding out the same thing. They discovered that getting a dog of suitable quality meant a serious financial commitment and a lifetime of dedication to do their very best even though there would be no real monetary reward for their effort.

Breeding dogs today is a serious matter. Before going any further all persons should visit their local pound or animal shelter to see what happens to the dogs that were raised by people who thought it would be âfunâ to have a litter. âThe miracle of deathâ by euthanasia is just as educational as the âmiracle of birthâ! If you intend to breed your dog, then you should be fully aware of what the consequences may be.


Will it be worth it? Most of the time, the answer is no. The decision NOT to breed your pet is one of the most intelligent, educated and loving decisions you can make.

If after all the above research has been done and once you have determined that your dog is of breeding quality and has received its Champion title and have become a part of a club, it will be easy to find a breeding mentor who will be happy to help and explain everything needed for breeding.

Yes whom ever told you it was not cheap to breed was absolutely correct. Reputable, responsible breeders 90% of the time end up lucky if they break even and more times than not end up in the red.

My last breeding last June cost me $5600 not including all the required breed health testings for my b*tch prior to breeding her. I didn't come close to breaking even on what I paid out. However being a responsible breeder is not about making a profit. Breeding should be for the love and betterment of the breed. So there is no price to high for producing genetically healthy pups with good temperaments, bred to the breed standard either for the show ring or for a family pet.

Having the necessary funds available for breeding and any and all complications that may arise is essential for the well being of the b*tch and puppies. A breeder should have at least $1000 put aside and in most cases need more.

Starting a Quality Boarding Kennels...?

pawpyluv

I am thinking of starting up a kennel in a few years. I wanted to know what everybody thought would make the best kennel... I have heard of quite a few kennels and a lot run quite differently. Do you know of any kennels that would be good to take example of in terms of how they run it and also the facility... I want to get as much research done before I start one up. Any comments would be great!
I already am volunteering just about every saturday at my local kennel to try and get some hands on expirience... I also want to know some ideas about what could make my kennel better then another one... Suggestions?

Answer
These are things that I look for in a kennel, not everyone will want/look for these things.

Large runs for the dogs. Indoor and outdoor would be great.
Will board dogs form the same family in the same run, unless the owner says otherwise.
Dogs from different families should not be housed together.
Time to play with other dogs in an enclosed area. This will depend on the individual dogs and how they react to other dogs.
Time with people. Individual attention for each dog.
Will feed what the owner feeds. This includes Raw and home made diets at no extra charge. Also won't change the dogs diet without consulting the owner
Will brush/groom the dogs as needs. Brushing should not be extra, but bathing and other grooming can be.
The facility is clean. It should be cleaned daily and disinfected between dogs.
Dogs should not be wearing chains, harnesses, head collars or other things that can cause issues. All dogs should have some sort or ID on them at all times. This could be a paper collar.
All dogs need to be vaccinated or have a titer test done. Proof must be presented.
Dogs should be free of fleas, ticks, worms and other contagious parasites
Females in heat should never be allowed to interact with other dogs.
Aggressive dogs should not be allowed to interact with other dogs, unless it gets along with a particular dog.
Treats should not be used when dogs are in groups. Many dogs can get aggressive with food. Toys may pose similar problems.
Only give treats/toys if the owner OKs it. Not all dogs are allowed these.
The kennel should have a plan in case of emergency. This includes evacuation plans and plans to cover injury of dog or people.
Someone needs to be on site 24/7. They should have access to the kennels. A monitor is essential for this.
The kennel should have a contract. This includes who pays if the dog is injured at the kennel, if the dog contracts an illness, or if anything happens.
The kennel should obtain permission form the owner to seek vet care if needed. This should include how much care they can seek (emergency vs full care) before calling the owner.
The owner is the only one allowed to pick up the dog. They can list people to pick up the dog when the dog is dropped off. ID must be presented.

These are just some of the things to think about.

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difference between kennel and puppy mill....?

bribri

if i were to have lets say maybe 3 or 4 dogs and i bread them to sell the puppies is that a puppy mill or some one breeding dogs... or is it the condition of the breeding... or maybe the health.. do i have to have a special lisence to breed any kind of dog of any number... what if i have 50 dogs and breed them if i kept them all fead and up to date on vet visits is that a puppy mill or a kennel..... and no a kennel isnt only a place where you take your dogs when you go on vacation... there are such things as kennels that breed certian types of dogs..... any coments
ok guys just so u know i am going to school to be a vet tech and then im going back to be a vet... im not all in the dark on this one

Answer
SPAY OR NEUTER!!!!!!!!

1.Not all dogs are built to be bred.

Most pets, although lovable, are not of breeding quality because they have genetic defects and other problems that should not be perpetuated. People who breed dogs for a living are very careful about choosing which dogs they will breed together based on physical characteristics and behavior. Some people decide that it would be fun to breed and just start looking for a dog that has the proper equipment and is willing. This can be a huge mistake.

2. There are already too many dogs in the world.

Breeding your pet is a serious endeavor and should not be taken lightly. There are far too many pets that end up in shelters without good homes. If your breed of dog has large litters, what will you do if you are unable to sell the puppies? Do you really want to contribute to the massive problem of pet overpopulation?

3. Dogs that arenât neutered face serious health risks.

Consider your dogâs own health. Male dogs that are neutered are less likely to be hit by cars, because unaltered males have a very strong urge to roam and find a fertile female. Male dogs will go over or under fences, through doors and windows, and will pull leashes out of unsuspecting hands in quest of a mate.

Additionally, neutering greatly reduces the incidence of prostatic disease and eliminates testicular cancer in males, and cuts down on breast cancer in females. The possibility of uterine infections is also eliminated by spaying.

4. Female dogs used for breeding may have unwelcome visitors.

If you spay your dog, you will not have to chase persistent male dogs out of your yard. Also, you wonât have to worry about cleaning up messy heat cycles.

5. Be prepared to work like a dog when your pet goes into labor.

Many people do not realize just how much work and expense is involved with letting dogs have puppies. Getting the mother through pregnancy is the easy part, but labor is truly laborious for dog and owner alike. Dogs usually decide to have their puppies at the most inconvenient times, like 2:00 in the morning when veterinary hospitals are closed.

If your pet develops a problem during delivery, it means at least the expense of an emergency call. If the complications are life threatening, you must be prepared, especially if you have a breed of dog that has a broad head like a pug, to pay for an emergency C-section. It is very distressing to have to leave home in the middle of the night, worry about your pet, get a large veterinary bill and then try to explain to your boss why you cannot possibly come to work the next day.

6. It can be devastating when the puppies die.

There is always the prospect of the loss of some or all of the puppies. A neonatal mortality rate of 10 to 30 percent is considered normal. And, itâs easy to lose a puppy if you donât have the experience or knowledge to care for newborns. Because puppies are not able to regulate their own body temperature initially, you may need to supplement their environment with heat.

7. Not all dogs make the best mothers.

If your female doesnât have enough milk to feed all its puppies, or decides that feeding her offspring is not her cup of tea, it will be your responsibility to provide them with nutrition every three to four hours, round the clock. And how many mouths are there to feed?

Another aspect of puppy care that you can look forward to if your dog wants nothing to do with her brood is the manual stimulation of urination and defecation. Until puppies are three weeks old they will only void if directly stimulated. If mom isnât doing this, you will need to take a moistened cotton ball and gently rub the urogenital area until the babes begin to urinate and pass stool. Failure to do this can result in some pretty unhappy puppies.

8. Good luck seeing a profit!

Your last responsibility before they go to a new home is to have them dewormed, vaccinated, and examined by a veterinarian. You will want to make sure that you have budgeted a sufficient amount for this purpose. Needless to say, if you decide to breed mixed breed puppies, you have no opportunity to recoup this expense.

Puppies are a lot of fun and it can be very exciting when they are born, but more often than not, owners find themselves in over their heads when they decide to endeavor into breeding.

Article republished here with permission from VetCentric.com
Copyright(c) 2000 by VetCentric.com

SPAY OR NEUTER!!!!!!!!

how can you make dogs stop eating poop?

Karen

will my dogs are 2 years old and they have been eating poop and we never do anything when we see them eating poop we say no and hit the with news paper and we gave them pinapple but it does not seem to be working i need help fast my mom is thinking of giving them away because of that

Answer
Background and principles:

* Coprophagia is a condition that compels dogs to consume feces.

* Why does the dog engage in this habit? A dog may ingest fecal matter for various reasons:

He may be hungry and has no access to real food.

You may be feeding a food lacking in sufficient nutrients and/or not appropriate for your particular dog.

When a dog is fed low-quality and/or inappropriate dog food, he feels compelled to eat more of it in an attempt to satisfy his body's craving for nutrients. As a result, the dog is ingesting excess food, and a large proportion of the food goes through his digestive system undigested. The resulting stools smell and look fairly close to the food that the dog previously consumed, so the dog tries to consume the 'food' again. This is not just a vulgar habit; it is a cry for health. The dog needs a better diet that will enable him to absorb the nutrients his body needs.

When dogs consume feces from other animals, they may be seeking minerals lacking in their regular dog food.

The dog may be consuming feces out of boredom, loneliness, anxiety or stress.

A dog who is confined to a kennel, chained, or restricted to a small yard or other space may eat his feces to occupy himself or clean his personal space. This dog needs to be exercised and played with several times a day.

Some breeds instinctively like to carry things in their mouths. Picking up feces and carrying it around may signal that the dog needs more daily exercise, mental stimulation and interaction with his people.

A yard or kennel where stools are allowed to pile up may prompt a dog to 'clean up' his stools. Be sure to clean the dog's area every day, and preferably right after the dog eliminates.

The emotional stress of being left alone or restricted to a small area for long periods of time without the companionship of the caregiver can result, for some dogs, in the eating of his own feces.

Internal parasites may lead a dog to consume feces, because the parasites can leach nutrients from the host animal's system. Thus, the dog will feel unusually hungry.

If a dog is punished for defecating in the house, she may eat her feces in order to hide the evidence and avoid punishment. Typically, when a dog defecates indoors, it is because she feels unable to hold it. It is a myth that dogs poop indoors for spite; spite is a human, not a canine, emotion. More responsive management and training by the owner is the solution, not punishment. Also realize that elimination in the house can be a sign of a health or medical problem, from parasites to a serious condition.

* Sometimes a mother dog will eat the feces of her pups out of a natural instinct to hide evidence of her offspring from predators.

* It is common for many puppies to taste and try to eat feces. Some researchers even suggest that some components of feces actually can stimulate the brain and immune function in young animals. However, that possible benefit is far outweighed by the health risks of ingesting excrement. Prevention is the wisest practice. Don't let the pups indulge, and they won't develop a taste for excrement ... and won't develop this habit.

* Prevention is better than treatment in mature dogs as well, since coprophagia is usually self-rewarding, meaning that the act of ingesting the feces is satisfying to the dog so he is likely to repeat the undesired behavior.

Solutions:

* Change the dog's diet. Buy or prepare only nutritious, quality food that is formulated for the dog's age, breed and any medical issues.

* For the dog who may be hungry, try feeding him a little more, and make sure you feed a quality, nutritious food that is appropriate for the age and type of canine.

* Take the dog to your veterinarian for an examination for underlying medical and health problems, parasites and other problems that may be compelling him to eat feces.

* Clean up after your pet, right after he goes - before he has a chance to eat his poop. Stopping access is one key to stopping this habit.

* Walk the dog on leash so that you are in a better position to tell the dog 'leave it' and to physically keep the dog from trying to sniff and eat stools. Always praise your dog for listening. You can also reinforce the verbal praise with tidbits carried in a pouch.

* As soon as the dog starts approaching excrement, tell her 'nah-ah-ahhh' or 'leave it!', and distract her with praise supported with a treat, clicker click, playtime or other action or activity that is appealing to the dog. This will convey the idea that it is more rewarding to attend to you than to attend to poop. As soon as she turns her attention to her, praise her ('Good dog!') and reward her. A wise practice is to always carry appealing tidbit treats, a favorite toy, clicker - something you can always use to effectively gain your dog's attention and reinforce desired behaviors. Once you get her attention, give her something posi

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