What is a good way to help my dogs stay warm while outside during the day?

best dog kennel for labs image

SadToday22

I live in Michigan, and it's actually unseasonally warm right now, and when it does get very cold I let my dogs stay inside while I am at work (can't do it all the time, they love to distroy everything I own) so while I am at work (about 8 hrs a day) they are outdoors in a 10x10 covered dog kennel with 2 large, insulated dog houses. My dogs are both lab mixes, one about 45 lbs, and the other about 65 lbs. Any interesting suggestions on how to help them stay warm while I am at work during the day?

Answer
Here in Indiana the winters can get pretty cold too but many dogs survive extremely well outdoors. Most owners seem to use either hay or straw for bedding along with an old blanket.Its also a good idea in colder areas to put some straw or hay bales around the sides of the dog house as added insulation as well. Labs are sturdy dogs & should survive a few hours outdoors regardless of the weather as long as they have somewhere cosy to snuggle up to sleep!!

What is the best way to house train a lab puppy 6 weeks old?

little sis

From sleeping arrangements to going to the bathroom. Everything is new to me and I can use some suggestions. I purchased a dog kennel but she has been sleeping with me.Not sure how long is unhealthy to keep dog in kennel.

Answer
HOUSETRAINING

Most dogs give off signs. They will sniff a spot and circle. You can watch for tell-tale behavior like that, and immediatly scoop up your dog and take her outside to "do the deed". Each time you go outside, take her to the same spot and use a code word like, "Go potty!" when you want her to us the bathroom. Gently pet her and praise her in a normal tone when she goes outide.

I hope this helps you. I was so unsure when I got my dog...I read all the books and watched all the DVDs and bought all the best products. I can't imagine when I have kids!

When she does use the bathroom where you don't want her to, don't rub her nose in it or anything else like that. Rubbing her nose in poop can cause infections, especially if she has tapeworms or something like that. Just wipe up the spot and make sure (this is very important!) that you use a pet spot cleaner. You can buy the best stuff on the market at PetSmart or SuperPetz. A less effective brand (but it still works) is available at Wal-Mart. If you only wiped up the spot, your dog will go back to that spot and smell her "target", and decide that's where she's supposed to go next time. The cleaner removes all the doggy scent from your floors and furniture, so the puppy can't smell it, and therefore, it isn't a choice potty spot.

If you must leave your dog alone during the day, you may want to crate train or paper train your dog, at least for a little while. They're both extremely effective until your dog is housetrained.

Also, you could put your dog on a schedule to housetrain her. When I first got my Rotti-Shepard pup, I would take him out every 20 minutes. Most of the time, he wouldn't do anything, but it wasn't the point. It got him used to the idea that outside was where that happened.

You also may need to get up during the night and take her out. My dog is 6 months old and now goes outside every two hours during the day and every four hours at night. He is housetrained, though, so I can tell you that this works.

A puppy will need to relieve herself after playing, eating, sleeping or napping, or any other activity that takes her mind away from the task at hand. I would take my puppy out right after eating, drinking water, playing, sleeping, or just lying around. As soon as he would move, we would go outside.

Limiting your dog's water intake is also a possibility. It may just be that she is drinking too much water and her body can't use it all. Dogs should be provided fresh water with every meal, after playtime and sleeping, except at night. That wouldn't be a good idea. You're dog will not die of thirst or anything like
Most dogs give off signs. They will sniff a spot and circle. You can watch for tell-tale behavior like that, and immediatly scoop up your dog and take her outside to "do the deed". Each time you go outside, take her to the same spot and use a code word like, "Go potty!" when you want her to us the bathroom. Gently pet her and praise her in a normal tone when she goes outide.

CRATE TRAINING

A dog who is trained to be content in a crate can be kept safe when traveling in a car, visiting someone elseâs home, or being transported in an airplane. Some dogs really take to the crate, preferring to sleep in it or take refuge there when things get too hectic. Other dogs are never happy in the crate, but will tolerate it when necessary. Still other dogs panic when closed in a crate.
When to use a crate
The use of a crate is especially helpful when introducing a new puppy or dog to the household. The crate can be used to facilitate house training, and to prevent the dog or puppy from engaging in destructive or inappropriate behavior. Puppies need to be taught to inhibit certain behaviors while in the home, such as digging at the furniture and rugs, chewing table legs and cushions, and stealing from the garbage cans or counters. This teaching is only possible when you can observe and monitor the dogâs behavior. Crating can be a lifesaver when this is impossibleâwhen you leave the dog home alone, for example.

WHAT NOT TO DO
Crates can be easily misused:
- The crate should NOT be used to contain a dog simply because the dog is a nuisance and requires attention. A puppy or young dog can be annoying and exhausting, but it is unfair and negligent to lock the animal up rather than provide the training he needs.
- A dog should never be left in a crate for extended periods of time. An 8- to 16-week-old puppy should not crated for longer than an hour at a time, except for during the night. A four- to six-month-old puppy shouldnât be crated for longer than a two- to three-hour period.
- An adult dog can be crated for as long as eight hours, but it is unreasonable to expect a dog to be content in a crate if he hasnât received adequate exercise beforehand. A dog should only be crated during an eight-hour workday if he has been given at least 30-60 minutes of exercise beforehand. This is even more of a concern if the dog is crated at night as well âin which case he should receive 60-90 minutes of exercise outside, in the morning, before being placed back in the crate.

Should crating ever be used as a means of punishing the dog? If this is the only way the crate is used, the dog may come to dislike the crate. Some dogs will view the crate as a safe refuge, seeking it out to escape further punishment. It is acceptable to use the crate sparingly as a time-out place, but the dog should have many additional pleasant experiences with the crate, to counteract any possible negative associations.

A dog who is prone to guarding his belongings may also guard the area around his crate. Always be cautious when walking by an open crate or when removing such a dog from his crate. Do not reach in for the dogâeither entice him out or lift the crate up from the back to âspillâ the dog out. Some dogs appear to feel vulnerable and âtrappedâ in a crate, and may react with aggression when approached by unfamiliar people or dogs while inside.

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO ENJOY HIS CRATE
The instructions that follow are designed to teach a dog to enjoy being in a crate. The speed with which you progress depends upon the dog and whether he already dislikes the crate. If your dog has a history with the crate and is now reluctant to go in, get a different type of crate and work through the steps very slowly. There are wire crates, plastic airline crates, and mesh crates. The mesh crate is the most portable but is inappropriate for dogs who are big on chewing. The mesh and airline crates provide the most privacy for the dog. Some dogs like to have a blanket or towel draped over the wire crate to give a more âdenlikeâ feel. Truly crate-phobic dogs may need preliminary training with crate-like structures. For instance, you might wish to teach the dog to walk under a suspended tarp, step between two upright boards, or lie down in the bottom half of an airline crate (top removed) before ever introducing him to a crate. Difficult dogs also benefit from training to sit, down, stay, and to step forward and back, as this gives you more precision in instructing the dog on exactly what behavior youâd like him to perform.

The following instructions incorporate the use of a clicker to precisely indicate the behavior you are reinforcing. You can also use a verbal sound marker (such as a clearly enunciated âyesâ) whenever you see the indication to click. You may wish to begin using an airline crate with the door removed, or simply leave it ajar; flip the door of a mesh crate up over the roof. And remember, always progress through the steps at a pace that is appropriate for your dog. Repetition is the key to success, but you donât want to bore the dog by staying at one step for too long.

1. Sit down in front of the crate with your dog. Have a supply of whatever treats he really likes. Show him a treat and toss it just inside the mouth of the crate. Allow the dog to reach in and take the treat. Repeat several times, sometimes requiring that he step a little further inside the crate. Always permit him to step back out at will.

2. Show the dog a treat and move as though you are tossing it inside the crate. When the dog looks in the crate, click or say âYes!â and toss the treat inside. After a few repetitions, wait for the dog to actually take a step toward the crate before clicking and tossing the treat inside. Once the dog is taking a step toward the crate, you are well on your way. With each repetition, always allow the dog to come back out of the crate. If he prefers to stay inside (presumably heâs figured out that he gets treats in there), give him a second treat for coming back out.

3. Dog takes two steps toward the crate, click and toss a treat into the mouth of the crate.

4. Dog moves to the crate and sticks his head inside the mouth, click and toss a treat into the crate.

5. Dog moves to the crate and places one front foot into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.

6. Dog moves to the crate and places one front foot, then the other, into the crate, click and toss a treat into
the crate.

7. Dog moves to the crate, places both front feet in the crate, then takes another step deeper into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.

8. Dog moves to the crate, steps into the crate, and places one rear foot into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.

9. Dog moves to the crate, steps inside the crate, and places rear feet in the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate. At this point, the dog may back out of the crate or may turn around and walk forward out of the crate. Give a second treat when the dog exits the crate. Turning in the crate is preferred to exiting, as it sets you up nicely for subsequent steps. If the dog is inclined to back out, try reaching in with a treat in your hand, and luring the dog around. If the dog is nervous when you reach in, try a wider crate. He may feel more comfortable turning in a wider space or he may be more comfortable with you luring him around. Once turning is well established, wean off reaching in and luring him.

10. Dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, click and quickly reach inside to hand the treat.

11. Introduce a verbal cue to tell the dog to go inside the crate, such as âGo in your crate,â âGet in your box,â âLoad up,â etc. Say this just prior to your dog moving toward the crate. If the dog starts to move to the crate before you tell him, thatâs fine.

12. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, and takes a step toward the exit, click and reach inside to hand the treat. You should skip this step if the crate is so small that the dog can only take one step before exiting the crate.

13. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie downâwhichever he is most likely to do. When he does, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. If you need to, cue the dog to sit or lie down, and then reach inside to lure the dog into position.

14. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down: when he does, cue him to stay, wait 1-2 seconds, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say âOkayâ and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit.

15. The dog should begin to automatically sit or lie down when he goes into the crate, without you having to cue him. If, at any time, the dog exits the crate before completing the full sequence of turning and sitting or lying down or staying, say âToo bad!â and withhold the treat. Start again. If he fails more than twice in a row, do something to help him succeedâmaybe reach in with a treat to lure him to step farther inside or to adopt the sit or lie down position. Rely on this only once or twice; after that, he should be expected to perform the sequence himself. If he still fails, quit the session (maybe the dog is tired of the training) or revert to an earlier step and get an easier behavior well established before progressing again.

16. When the dog can go inside the crate, sit or lie down and stay for 10-20 seconds, begin closing the door. With a wire or airline crate, touch the door, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say âOkayâ and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit. With a mesh crate, lift the door slightly off the roof, then replace, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say âOkayâ and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.

17. Gradually move the door toward the closed position until it is completely closed. Build the dog up to the point that he can remain in position inside the crate, with it closed for 20-30 seconds, before actually latching the door. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.

18. Continue to increase the time the dog is inside the crate, with the door latched. If the dog stands up or scratches at the door, say âUh uhâ and cue the dog to lie down again. If he does not lie down, reach in and lure him back into position, tell him to stay, close the door again momentarily, then click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say âOkayâ and open the door fully so the dog can exit.

19. Once the dog is able to lie down in the crate for one to two hours, always give him something nice to eat or chew to pass the time, such as a stuffed Kong, Goodie Ship, Dentabone, Greenie, or chew bone. Skip this step if the dog is inclined to guard these items because it is imperative that you can remove them each time you allow the dog to exit the crate.

20. As the dog tolerates longer periods of time in the crate, vary your position so you are not always sitting right by the crate. Sit farther away, stand up, move about the room, etc. Make sure the dog is comfortable with you moving about the room before you ever attempt to leave the room or the house. Some dogs may never be able to tolerate staying in the crate while you engage in an activity they consider fun, such as sweeping the floor, playing with your child, visiting with guests, or training another pet. If you must crate the dog at these times, it is better to move the crate to a more isolated location. Alternatively, you may have to put up with the dog barking and scratching to be released. Any time the dog is whining, barking, or scratching to be released from the crate, always cue the dog to sit or lie down before opening the door. The dog will learn that sitting or lying down is the best way to get you to open the door. Make sure you donât inadvertently teach the dog to whine, bark, or scratch to be released. Just make sure that most of the time you release the dog from the crate before he engages in these behaviors. If you find that he is always demanding to be released, you need to go back to the beginning steps and build up his comfort level again.

If you need more info, let me know.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Looking to get a Toy Fox Terrier do they make good pets?

dog crates that look like furniture image

mzr81004

I finally decided on the type of breed that best suits our family but I just wanted to know a little bit more about them. Also, wanted to make sure that they're not known to chew on furniture. Im trying to find breeders around Va but cant find any. Any idea where I can go?

Answer
Very active little dogs. See the word terrier? (grin)
Terriers in general are SMART, so you need to give them plenty of exercize, both physically and for that active little mind.
A basic obedience course is a must.
Invest in a crate for housebreaking and times when you cannot supervise.
Also some good chew toys, nylabones, kongs, etc.
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/toyfoxterrier.htm
You might want to do a google search for a breed-specific rescue, or check on petfinder.com.

What to do during a dog's seizure and what is the cost of medication?

Mo Money

My 3 year old lab had two seizures in March of this year (really weak, not diagnosed). Yesterday my wife and I noticed he was having one. I rubbed him down and talked to him during the seizure until it went away (3-5 minutes). What else can I do? I know I have to take him to the vet and most likely get him medicated. How much money are we looking at?

Answer
my dog had seizures and all i could do for her is sit and pat her and let her know i was there.

Its very sad to watch it happen to them

I the end the seizures did kill her

I just found this info if its any good

During the Seizure:

- Some dogs are light or sound sensitive during seizure episodes. Try dimming the lights and keeping phones at a distance from the dog.

- Keep old towels or baby diapers handy to catch urine if your dog urinates during seizures.

- Some human epileptics say they have an easier time if the seizure is allowed to run its course. Calling the dog's name to bring them out of the seizure may not be the best thing for your dog. Try it each way and see which is more comfortable for your particular dog's seizure.

- A fan blowing on the dog, or rubbing the feet and belly with cool water may help cool the dog down. Of course, in any case should the dog seem to be overheating due to repeated seizures or not coming out of a seizure -IMMEDIATELY bring the dog to/or contact a vet since overheating can be very dangerous.

- Many dogs are confused and even blind right after a seizure. Keep the dog in a safe area where they cannot fall down stairs or hurt themselves.

- Keep a careful journal of the seizures. As soon as possible write down the exact time the dog started to seizure and the time the seizure ended. A stop watch or watch with a second hand can be helpful. After the seizure is over and you have time - write down all circumstances surrounding the seizure, such as unusual food eaten, activities that happened during the previous day, medications or vaccinations recently given. A detailed journal can be helpful when bringing your dog to a new vet or neurologist.

- Be prepared to transport a dog that cannot stand up and walk, or is even in the middle of a seizure. Hard plastic children's sleds can be used to carry or drag the dog to the car. A heavy blanket folded can also act as a stretcher. If you are alone with a very heavy/large seizing dog, call the vets office for instructions. Depending on where you live you may want to try calling the police for help in getting the dog into the car if no one else is available.



Safety:

- Seizure proofing your home is important since most of us cannot be there to watch our dogs at all times. Seizures may occur when the dog is home alone. Many people crate their dogs while they are not there. An airline type crate (Vari-Kennel or Furrari) minimizes the chances of the feet getting caught up in the wires.

- While crating, or even when leaving the dog home alone, make sure the dog is not wearing a collar (especially with tags) that could get caught while the dog is thrashing. Choking can result.

- Some people make a special room for the epileptic dog, clearing out any objects/furniture that may injure the dog during a seizure. Crating or making a 'doggy room' may be the best idea should you have a 'catapulting dog', that is one that throws itself across the room during seizures.

- Never leave an epileptic dog alone near any water deep enough to drown in. If you need to, investigate getting a doggy lifevest for your dog.

- If you are concerned about your dog seizing while swimming, doggie life vests are available.

- Protection or separation may need to be considered in multiple dog households. A seizing dog can trigger the 'pack' instinct in which an injured animal on the ground is attacked. Monitor your dogs until you know their reactions to the seizing dog.

- Baby gates can be invaluable to block off stairways or confine the dog to a certain room.

- Be careful of leaving windows open should you have a dog that spends time near one. Screen windows can easily fall out of the framing as well as your dog.

- Prop a large piece of styrofoam insulation against a sliding glass door if you are afraid of your dog hitting against it.

- Buy a new or used baby alert monitor to 'hear' your dog if he sleeps in a different part of the home. Just put the receiver part in your bedroom -this may help you sleep better if you are constantly trying to 'listen' to hear if the dog is all right.

- If you really want to know what happens when you are not home, buy a voice activated tape recorder. It only records when significantly loud noise is heard. This will not only let you know if your dog has seized, but if he has been barking all day. Some also videotape their dog during the time they are gone. They then fast forward thru the tape to see if anything unusual has happened during the day.

- Keep phone numbers to your vet and all emergency vet hospitals near all phones. 2:00 a.m. in the morning is not he time to decide if your dog is in status and then figure out what to do. Drive by the emergency vet so you know exactly where it is. When traveling, get emergency numbers in advance or immediately find the hospital nearest you when you arrive. Keep the number handy at all times.

- An ID tag on a lost epileptic dog is very important. It's scary enough to think of a lost dog, but a lost dog without medications is even worse. Medical alert tags are available at most pharmacies, pet supply catalogs or from your vet. It can even be engraved and worn with your dog's regular tags.

- Train all your dogs for basic obedience. You may need it someday if you are walking multiple dogs and your epileptic seizures. The situation would be much easier if the other dogs will obey a sit or down stay.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How do I know if they are a Puppy Mill or not?

dog crates kennel club image

Brennan R

My family and I are trying to find a good dog breeder. We've found some close by, but don't know if they are a puppy mill or not. How would we find that out or find a good breeder?

Answer
First, youi likely won't be invited to look at a puppy mill. They sell through pet shops. You are looking to avoid back yard breeders.

Google the name of the breed + club to find the national breed club. Then find the nearest local club. Breeders who are members of breed clubs are generally checked out pretty carefully. Then go and see the facility. They will likely be in a kennel situation, so here are some things to look for: is it clean, are the kennels (not a cage or crate but a long kennel) roomy enough to the puppies can run and play, do the dogs look healthy and well cared for, is the mother dog friendly and will she let you handle the puppies.

Things to ask: Do they offer a health guarantee, will they take back the dog if you are not able to keep it and is that in their contract, do they health test their breeding stock?

If any of the answers are "no" look elsewhere.

What do you need for a new dog and whats the cost?

hihihihihi

I'm getting a new dog(my first one) and i wanna know what I need and how much it costs.Thx in advance

Answer
New Puppy Checklist:
Collar/Leash
Crate
Food
Treat (one kind for now)
ID Tag
Food Bowl
Water Bowl
Carpet Cleaner
Books (General Breed, Training, etc)
Toys

You'll also need a vet check within the week (preferably that day or the following day of getting the dog.) Just to make sure the dog doesn't have worms, fleas, and to set up a shot schedule.

A ballpark amount for all supplies: $200
A ballpark amount for vet check: $200
(Based on what i spent for my dog.)

Monthly fees will always be there - food, flea/tick prevention, heart worm prevention: about $150 depending on size of dog. You can also buy in bulk.
Emergency fees - illness or injury - can always arise, so please make sure you have some money saved up. I've heard of fees being as low as $400 and as high as $5,000 or more depending on what was needed testing and treatment wise.
Grooming fees are dependent on the dog. I pay about $60 for my dog to be trimmed every four-five months. Short haired dogs need less.

May also want to look into joining a group training session at your local kennel club - they're great for socialization and you get tips from a professional on training and any possible behavior issues.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How do you train a puppy to go bathroom outside?

dog crates unlimited image

doorknob

I know someone people that have had a dog for about a year now. That got her when she was a puppy and trained her to go on some newspaper. They did it because when they got her it was in the dead of winter and after all, who really wants to go stand outside with a puppy trying to get it to go to the bathroom. So anyway now they want her to get off the newspapers so they took them away, hoping that she would go outside. But now she's going inside the house! Please help, thanks

Answer
House Training


House training your dog is simple if you follow a few basic rules. Remember that puppies younger than 10 to 12 weeks have little control. Accidents will always happen when teaching puppies to be clean in the house. Be kind and patient, and reward handsomely all outdoor elimination. Always remember that dogs do what works for them. Make outdoor pottying work really well for your puppy.


1) The puppy must have NO time unsupervised in your home. NONE. If you are not directly watching the puppy, it should be in the crate, or outside in a safe area. You MUST watch the puppy at ALL times when loose in the house. Use baby gates, crates, or tie the leash to your belt.


2) The puppy should sleep inside the crate by your bedside. This way you can hear if the puppy should happen to need to go out during the night.


3) You must go WITH the puppy outside for ALL trips for elimination. You must have treats with you. When the puppy is urinating, say "GO PEE PEE" in a nice praise tone of voice the entire time. When she is finished, pop the treat into her mouth at once, and praise praise praise. This should be something she gets at no other time, like tiny pieces of string cheese or boiled chicken. Same for defecation. Say "GO POOP" while she is going, and food reward and praise afterwards. You must observe and reward ALL outdoor potty time.

4) Keep a schedule. Feed at the same time, and walk outside at the same times. Your pup needs at least 4 trips outdoors each day, and 5 is probably better. Pup needs to go out at wake up time, lunch time, 4-5 PM, after dinner or any other meals, and before bed. Younger puppies may need to go out much more often.


5) Use a key word each time you go out. I say "Let's go out!!" in a happy tone of voice each time I'm opening the door to go out with the dog.


6) If you catch the puppy IN THE ACT of eliminating in your house, CLAP YOUR HANDS, say AH AH, OUTSIDE!! And immediately rush her outside. If she finishes there, do your usual food reward and praise.


The keys to getting your dog reliably housetrained are:


SUPERVISION: NO loose time in the house if you are not watching


REWARDS: ALL outdoor elimination MUST be observed and rewarded. If you only do this ONE thing, your puppy will get housetrained.


PATIENCE: Anger and punishment have no place in dog training. Elimination is a natural and pleasurable experience for your dog. You can teach her to not soil your house, but punishment will NOT help. It will only teach the dog to hide when she needs to eliminate.


If you have applied these techniques carefully for 4 weeks and you are still finding spots or piles after the fact, it's time for stronger measures. Roll up a newspaper and fasten both ends with a rubber band. Keep it handy. The very next time you find a spot of a pile that the dog has left behind, whip out that newspaper, and hit YOURSELF over the head firmly several times as you repeat "I FORGOT TO WATCH MY PUPPY".


Works every time.


:D


This article copyright 2004/2007, RedyreRottweilers. Free for unlimited distribution as long as copyright info remains intact.

Why does my Westie have a strip of yellow on his back?

??????????

I have bathed him with shampoo formulated for white dogs but it never seems to go away. He is inside 90% of the time and then rest of his fur stays pretty clean. Can someone help me?

Answer
This very question was raised by a pet buyer to a Westie Breeder, please read:

From
http://cache.search.yahoo-ht2.akadns.net/search/cache?ei=UTF-8&p=westie+dog+yellow+back+stripe&y=Search&fr=yfp-t-501&u=www.arrowheadacreswesties.com/faq.html&w=westie+dog+dogs+yellow+back+stripe&d=KO5qVpzfQu4X&icp=1&.intl=us


Q: Do any of your Westies have the beige or yellow looking dorsal stripe down the center of the back?

A: Some of them do and some do not. This is a perfectly acceptable trait even in the show ring. At first glance you would not even notice this. The light discolored stripe could be there for two reasons. The first reason could be because in the grooming process too much live coat has been removed. The second and more likely reason is a matter of genetic background going back to the origin of the Westie many years ago, the Carin Terrier.




On this page we have tried to answer questions that have been asked throughout our years of breeding. These are questions you need answered prior to the decision to purchase a Westie or before the arrival of your new puppy.

Each puppy adoption is unique, so if you do not find the answer to your specific question, please feel free to call 252-478-4246 or email us at cindy@arrowheadacreswesties.com. We will answer each question to the best of our ability.

When you purchase an Arrowhead Acres Westie you will receive a brochure with some training, and bonding tips, a feeding schedule, also grooming and crate training advice. This brochure will answer most of the questions you will have after the arrival of your new Westie puppy. We will also be available to give advice and support.


Q: What is the difference in limited and unlimited registration?

A: If your puppy is purchased from Arrowhead Acres on a limited AKC registration he/she is NOT eligible to register offspring with AKC. It will also NOT be able to participate in any AKC sponsored conformation events.

If your puppy is purchased from Arrowhead Acres on an unlimited AKC registration he/she IS eligible to register offspring with AKC. The puppy IS also eligible to compete in any AKC sponsored conformation events.

Basically, for a person or family wanting a beautiful, healthy, fun, companion the limited AKC registration is what you need. If you are interested in conformation, showing, or breeding you will need an unlimited AKC registration.

We reserve the right to make the final decision rather to sale our babies on limited or unlimited AKC registration.


Q: Are Westies good with children?

A: A Westie can be your childâs best friend. Westies are a hardy, confident breed and can physically handle a certain amount of horseplay. They love to chase a ball and play tug of war. They can also play the role of a baby doll. They will make an excellent bed partner for your child, if this is acceptable in your home.

It will take a certain amount of discipline, training and supervision for the child and the puppy in the beginning. Never leave a child under five years old alone with a young puppy. If you plan on having children in the lifetime of your puppy you will need to acquaint your puppy with children while he/she is under one year old. The puppy will need to spend ample time socializing with children to be receptive and enjoy a new member of his/her family later in its life. A Westie that is mature and NEVER been around small children may not think kindly of a new creature in his space. But even a grown, mature Westie that has been taught his role and some manners will at least tolerate a new addition to the family.

Over the years we have heard many, many happy stories of a child and their Westie being inseparable. If any issues of discipline or any problems arise please, please call or email us.

2-2

2-4
2-6

2-1
2-7

2-9
2-6

2-3
2-8


Q: Do Westies have genetic or congenital defects that are common to the breed? If so have any of these defects made themselves present in your bloodlines?

A: Genetic or congenital defects are relatively few in Westies. The Westie has been left for the most part in its natural, original state. Up to this point there has not been a lot of indiscriminate breeding nor has man made any demands for big changes in their conformation or coats. Only the white coat color was used in the development of the Westie and it is the result of a dominant gene.

There are only four or five serious or possibly lethal, genetic defects that can be found on occasion in a Westie and in our almost seventeen years of breeding not one has presented itself in our bloodlines. We have had only five or six puppies over the years that have gone to their new homes and a congenital problem has arisen. At these times we have run all test and exhausted all possibilities of the defect being genetic. We offer a very extensive guarantee to cover any congenital or genetic problems should they arise.


Q: Do you recommend the use of a crate for house training? If so what size and type?

A: We strongly recommend the use of a crate for house training. The crate is also a great tool to protect your puppy and your home.

We recommend the airline approved plastic crates. This type crate will make your puppy feel more secure and he /she will be free from drafts more than in a wire cage. The size of the crate is very important. A dog will not soil where he has to lie down if at all possible. It needs to be just large enough for an adult Westie to stand up and turn around in comfortably. The approximate measurements should be 17âwide by 25âdeep by 16â tall.


Q: Is there a history of skin allergies in your Westies? If my Westie does develop allergies do you have any advice?

Click here for the answer.


Q: Are Westies hypoallergenic or do they shed?

A: The AMA reports the Westies have relatively low dander and shed almost none (ranked # 7) and in most cases is acceptable for individuals with asthma or allergies.


Q: Do you have champions in your bloodlines?

A: We have been breeding Westies for almost seventeen years and in the beginning there was a reasonable amount of champions in the bloodlines. After seventeen years all the champions are off of the pedigrees. But we have dogs that could more than qualify for the show ring and we have placed several puppies over the years in successful show homes. We feel we do not have to have dogs with the title of champion to raise champions. Our main goal is to raise healthy, happy and good-tempered companions.


Q: Do you show your Westies?

A: In our years of successfully showing horses we have found that any type of conformation showing is very political. Showing is not always about the horse, or the dog in this case, but who is at the end of the lead so we have never had the desire to show our dogs. We have sold several puppies to show homes over the years. In recent months (2007) we have considered placing one of our puppies with a local handler to try our hand at this competive sport.


Q: What kind of food do you feed? If the kind of food you feed is not available to me what do you recommend?

A: Our puppies are on Pro Pac Performance Puppy from the time they are three weeks old. You will be sent home with enough of this food to last four or five days. If you are unable to find this food we recommend Science Diet, Iams or Ukanuba puppy food.


Q: Do Westies make a good lap dog?

A: For some Westies in your lap will be their favorite spot. While other Westies want to be close to you but not necessarily always in your lap. These loving traits along with the confident traits of your beloved companion allow them to be an ever present member of your family while also being content with your absence during your busy days.
10-1


Q: Do Westies like to travel, hike, swim, ride on boats, ride on a bike or motorcycle?

A: Westies like to share in your activities. They are confident and hardy and if introduced to any activity correctly and safely they are sure to enjoy it as long as it is shared with you.
11-1

11-2

11-4
11-3


Q: What age should a puppy be when it goes to its new home?

A: Breeders and vets differ in their opinion as to what is the best age for a puppy to go home to its new family.

When we started breeding Westies in 1992 it was typical to send puppies home at six weeks. We have had great success with our babies leaving at six weeks. Still today most of our puppies go to their families at six weeks. Over the years as breeders and vets learned more about the psychological aspect of a puppy some breeders went to eight weeks. My mom bred Maltase for fifteen years. Because the Maltese were a fragile breed and so small, she kept her babies until eight weeks and sometimes ten or twelve weeks if they were extra tiny. Westies are a very stout, hardy breed. Our babies here at Arrowhead Acres have dry kibble available to them at three weeks of age so at six weeks they are eating well and for the most part going outside to potty.

There are advantages and disadvantages to taking a puppy home at six or eight weeks. Two of the advantages to the six-week age are bonding and dominance. In our opinion from six to seven weeks is a terrific bonding period. At this age you can also establish a dominance role easily. Instead of finding his position in âa pack of dogsâ he will find a place in your family. The advantage to eight weeks is the transition does seem a little easier on the puppy and there seems to be less crying and separation anxiety. However, all of our puppies are well socialized. If they remain here with us at Arrowhead Acres until they are ten or twelve weeks the transition into your home will still be successful.

We do not leave the pups with their mamas over six weeks because most of our mamas are thirteen to seventeen lbs. and a six-week-old litter of four or five puppies is just to hard o

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How much does a puppy cost without any vaccinations yet?

dog crates 300 size image

annie

I'm thinking of adopting this puppy at 6 weeks but I need to know how much I'll be spending on vaccinations. Which vaccinations are required? Which vaccinations aren't? Does the dog need to be spayed/neutered?

Answer
I am not going to lie, if you want to be a good pet owner.. it is expensive. You will need to get a minimum of 3 round of shots for him this year, than a round a year after that. If you got to a shot clinic, each round will probably cost between $30-50, as someone mentioned earlier. If you go to a vet office, it will be more like $75-100.

Further, food isn't cheap.... around $30 a month for a high caliber food. I assume you also want to buy your pup toys, a crate, leashe, etc.

If you get your pup spayed or neutered at a clinic, it will probably cost around $100. If you go to a vet office, between $300-400. I suggest going with a spay or neuter unless you have a good reason not to (personally, I am waiting until my pup is full grown, but we watch him constantly so he can't reproduce). If you don't spay a female, she will menstruate and you will need to buy doggie diapers.

In addition, you need to buy monthly heartworm and flea/tick prevention. This is very important. If you don't give your dog heartworm protection, there is a HIGH probability he will get heartworm and that is fatal (or very expensve to treat). The cost depends on the size of the dog... around $20 a month. Plus, every year your vet will make you test him to make sure he does not have heartworm (around $30)... it is a good thing to test for anyway.

Finally, unexpected expenses come up all the time. My dog got an ear infection this summer..... it cost $100 to treat. My dog ate something he shouldn't have when he went outside to relieve himself (caused a bowel obstruction) this past December and it cost $1,000. Granted, these are not everyday expenses and most people don't have dogs that get bowel obstructions. I am just trying to inform that dogs can get very expensive.

My dog is the first dog I have had "on my own" as an adult- not through my parents. My mom and dad told me dogs were expensive, but I had no idea. I love my little guy and would never trade him for the world.... he is hard work and expensive though.

This is maybe more information than you bargained for.. just thought you may want to know some of the other potential costs. Good luck!

How to keep an escape-artist dog in her kennel?

J

One of my dogs has recently become quite an escape-artist. She has a big plastic kennel with metal door. She will paw at the top latch until it unhinges and then push the door until the bottom latch comes out too. I reinforced the middle of the door with a carabeener, but that too was unlatched within 5 minutes!!!

We never leave her in the crate for more than 5 hours, and most days she usually is not in the crate. The only reason I crate her is to prevent her from getting into something dangerous when we are gone. We had a scare where we thought she ate a battery that was missing...$300 later she was fine, but our wallet was not! She usually does fine if we just leave her to roam the house (with bedroom and bathroom doors closed), but I still worry about her ingesting something dangerous.

I have included a pic of the kennel door below- just click on the link.

Thank you for any helpful suggestions!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45757821@N05/8689618086/in/photostream
@Oppial: Thank you! She has my heart :)

@Heart: That is a very good point! She recently pulled/strained a muscle in her neck & it resulted in a fever. Vet prescribed muscle relaxers, and now she is back to normal again. I do wonder if she pulled a muscle trying to get out of her kennel. It's either that or when a friend of mine was being a little too rough with her for my liking.

Answer
It doesn't matter the size or shape of the kennel. What matters is how they perceive it. It is obvious that she associates the kennel with something negative, what you have to do is reverse that. For starters you should not put a dog in a kennel with pent up energy. She had a lot of energy to be working on the kennel. You have to drain the energy away before you put her in for the day. Take her for a long walk, run, bike, rollerblade. If you don't have time in the morning you should get a treadmill and have her do that in the morning for an hour before you leave for the day. Once she is exhausted from all that exercise she won't ave the energy to want to escape.

Second, does she stay in the kennel while you are home. You should practice when you are home that the kennel is a place to rest and relax. After you exercise her take her to the kennel to lay down but don't close the door. Doing this will condition her that the kennel is not a place to be confined but as 'her' place. When she starts feel more secure close the door but don't lock it, leave it a little ajar so she knows that even if the door is closed she can get out.

In time doing this will help with the escaping. You should also train her that just because something is on the floor she in not allowed to touch it and that includes food. Condition her that the only thing she should put in her mouth is what you give her.

I hope this helps

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Has anyone traveled with a cat in a small dog crate?

dog crates how to size image

J

Two cats, want to keep them separated for a long trip. Thinking of putting them each in a dog crate. Anyone try this before? What were the results? What size crate would allow for a small litter pan and lounging room per crate?

Answer
I don't know about them both in the same crate.. that sounds like a nightmare. They might take their frustration out on the other.. the cat might scratch the dog (unintentionally) while trying to get out as they always do, and this could lead to a fight, etc. etc.

I would recommend two separate ones; and I always put a little blanket in side so they can sleep eventually, and I cover the crate with another sheet so it is dark for them (keep in mind the temperature in your area though! Don't want it too get to hot with a sheet over the crate) But it does calm them down after a little while.

how cheap can i get a dog crate and dog bed?

MAYDAY!par

my dog is a fox terrier, a small to medium sized dog, (about 15 pounds?) and he needs a new dog crate and bed because he out grew his old ones. how much could these cost me at my local pet store?

Answer
Have you tried Craigslist.com or Ebay.com? second hand shops might have them..but a small crate can be about $15-20 at walmart about the same for a dog bed too.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Is there such thing as an industrial strength dog crate?

dog crates heavy duty steel image

Sassy Shib

I posted a question a couple of weeks ago asking what crate would be best for my separation anxiety ridden dog who BENT HER WAY out of her metal crate while I was at work. The question specifically pertained to durable plastic crates (like the airline approved ones) but now wonder whether that would be the best way to contain her. Some people mentioned an "industrial strength crate", but there's no link even close to it when I Google it. She got out of those black metal ones (for a 50 pound dog, she is surprisingly strong when she wants something done). Is there one even more harcore than that?

I'm getting desperate. She is currently tethered to the couch leg while I find a solution for the poor thing, but I do get tired of cleaning up after she soils the carpet in her anxious state.

I need something that will keep her (and my carpets!) safe from harm. It needs to be, essentially, indestructible. Is there such a crate? Does a miracle like that exist?
Oregano - OUCH! That price is painful. Of course, if that's all that will work, that's all that will work...
Isis - How lucky are YOU? Wish people would leave that crap lying around our roads, ha.
hooptidoo2 - She is spayed, and about 1.5 years of age. I got her about 5 months ago from a local no kill shelter, so have no idea of her past. She is a hound mix.

The "gradually building up time apart" is a good thought and I did that with her the first couple of months - but she never had an issue with 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, even an hour...she almost seems to instinctively realize when she's being tethered (or crated, as it used to be) for 30 minutes or 6-8 hours. It's eerie. It's a great idea and I continue to work in that way, but she seems to recognize that I'm coming back shortly. Or maybe she just doesn't have enough time to do the damage she does when left for longer, I don't know.

Answer
Gorilla Tough® Classic Square Back Cage

This cage will stand up to the wear and tear it receives from exertive dogs; yet it is the perfect choice for housebreaking a puppy. Heavy-duty, 6-gauge welded steel wire, closely spaced at 1-1/4 inches apart, gives this cage its extra strength and stability. Front access door with cam lock is easy on your fingers but will check your dog in his efforts to escape.

HEAVY DUTY FOLDING PLASTIC DOG CRATES

these are the toughest I have found.

I need an industrial strength crate for my dog?

Our 22lb 8month old puppy has major seperation anxiety, it went from crying and barking to pure destruction. She bent her way out of the the metal crate once, then literally broke the welded pieces apart. Can't keep her confined to a room, because she has destroyed 3 baby gates, not just busting through them or jumping over them, but literally eatting her way through them. Anything in her path gets destroyed, except for the toys and treats we leave her for the day... I'm at my wits end she is destroying everything! Please help! I need a massively strong crate that she cannot get her way out of at all..... Thank You!!

Answer
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Indestructible-Steel-Crate/dp/B000Y905XE

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What all things should be considered for starting a dog boarding kennel?

best base for dog kennel image

Runner

I have plenty of land outside any city, with no zoning regulations. Seeking advice on what kind of facility to build to house the dogs, what kind of runs should they require, waterers, insurance, etc? Any advice will be very helpful, thanks

Answer
This is such a massive question. My best advice for you to not build a dog boarding kennel without at least a few months of really hard research. A business plan is a really good idea even if you do not need to go somewhere for funding like a bank, the format of a business plan makes you think of all aspects of your business, so that when it does become a reality, for example:

1. What type of dog boarding service are you offering, i.e. cagefree, or enclosure based or both? doggy daycare too or just dog boarding?

2. Research your Market! Who is your competition in the area? What services do they offer, their strengths and weaknesses, if you can determine approximately how much money they make, that would be good. What do they charge? How many dog owners and dogs are near your planned business, demographics. Find the trends for this market in your area, is it growing? All this will help you determine the size of your kennel, if zoning restrictions do not already dictate this.

3. Marketing and Sales, what are your strategies for market launch, marketing, sales promotion, and distribution. The 4 P's: product, price, place and promotion strategies.

4. Management Team, who do you need to run the kennel, what are your key players strengths, what will be their tasks and responsibilities.

5. Manufacturing / Operations, This will describe the system and activities necessary to prepare and deliver a final service to a customer. How you plan to maintain your edge. This is where you will describe what facilities you require.

6. Implementation Schedule, develop a realistic 5-year plan, concentrating on the major milestones and the most important interdependent events.

7. Opportunities and Risks, you must determine identify a margin of error for departures from your assumptions. Draw up both best-case and worst-case scenarios involving key operational milestones. VERY IMPORTANT to anticipate bumps in the road, so you have a plan to deal with it.

8. Financials, this might be the most important section, because if you don;t make money you will not be around very long. Include a pro-forma income statement, pro-forma balance sheet, pro-forma cash flow analysis, and break-even chart. Cost control measures should also be included.

If you do not have a realistic business plan you are destined to fail. Put in the effort before a shovel goes in the ground or you could very well loose a lot of money. Good Luck!!!!

How to take a dog from a non-approved country to Australia?

MssWorldTr

My husband and I are relocating to Australia and we want to take our dog with us. We have been living in Costa Rica for the last 4 years and our dog would need to spend 6 month in the US (without us) beore we can send her to Australia. Who can help us with this (are there agencies that exist) and can you give us a rough outline of costs involved.

Anyother information/personal past experience would be very helpful!

Answer
It is essential that you obtain full information as bringing animals into Australia is quite difficult because many animal diseases which exist in other countries are not present in Australia. You should access the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (AQIS) website in the first instance: http://www.daff.gov.au/aqis/cat-dogs

Note that Australian quarantine requires the animals to spend their quarantine period in Australia (not overseas), in a government managed quarantine facility - you will be responsible for the charges, but AQIS will make the necessary arrangements.

If you are saying you need to leave your dog in the US because you need time to get settled in Australia before you have her join you, you are better to get her to Australia and into quarantine at the same time that you move: she may have to spend three months or more in quarantine anyway. Then, if she is released before you are ready for her, you could put her into a boarding kennel near your Australian base

I believe you can visit your pet ocassionaly while they are in quarantine, although this could be upsetting for them.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Any advice for a future new dog owner?

dog crates vizsla image

Sokha

I have a good friend of mine whose dog gave birth to puppies a few months ago. The puppies are a mixed breed and are probably a Pomeranian/Chihuahua. I'm thinking about bringing one of them into my family, most likely it'll be a male. We have two adults, a teenager, and 7 year old boy in the family. The dog may have to stay by itself for some hours during the day when summer is over and the kids go back to school.

I'm worried that the dog may be possessive of his toys and food. Is there any advice to deal with that or prevent it? We've never had a family dog so are there any good advice or tips for new dog owners?

By the way, thanks for any help. [:

Answer
How is the temperament on the parents of the litter? The apple really doesn't fall far from the tree!
In my opinion, Toy dogs don't make the best family dogs. I'd recommend one of the Sporting breeds for a child. My all-time favorite mid-sized dog for kids is the English (or Welsh) Springer Spaniel. They require some grooming, but don't shed too much, are generally great with kids and easy to train. Females are a little bit easier than males, but either should make a terrific pet. They will need a good thirty minute walk every day.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniels and Pekingese are great too and need less exercise. They are small, sweet and generally quiet.

Vizslas, Setters, Labs and Goldens are usually great with kids but they're bigger and are very boisterous until they are about two. Labs shed a LOT.

Dogs require a lot of time, energy and money to take care of properly. If the dog isn't properly trained, it can chew up your house and your stuff. If it's not housebroken, it can ruin your floors and your furniture.

A good purebred pup can cost $1000 or more. Even "free" dogs cost money to take care of. A crate, books and supplies can cost up to $300. Puppy shots are $200, then $100 a year for boosters. Annual Heartworm test and preventative medication $100. Professional trainer $600 and up. Going on vacation? Boarding kennel $40/day. Spaying? $250.

All small dogs are harder than average to housebreak - small dogs have small bladders and need to go out about every four hours. Many tiny dogs tend to be spoiled, yappy little ankle-biters if they're not raised properly. They tend to be fragile and easily stepped on - a broken leg in a Chihuahua can cost you a bundle for the delicate surgery. They are not ornaments to show off in a Prada shoulder bag - they are living breathing animals that need care and training. If you raise it properly, you can have a great dog.

BEFORE you get any dog you should read some great books on training. (Try not to pick books randomly - there are a lot of bad books out there also!) These are some of my favorites and you can get them on Amazon.com
What All Good Dogs Should Know - Volhard
Good Owners, Great Dogs - Brian Kilcommins
Dog Tricks : Eighty-Eight Challenging Activities for Your Dog from World-Class Trainers by Haggerty and Benjamin
Don't Shoot the Dog - Pryor
Training Your Dog: The Step by Step Method - Volhard
Dog Problems - Benjamin
Cesar's Way - Cesar Millan
Also, watch the Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic Channel. Cesar Millan is the best trainer I've ever seen on TV.
http://www.dogpsychologycenter.com/

What breed of dog should I get, large inside dog?

Q. So i've been thinking about getting an inside dog again, my old dog was a Beagle she passed away about 2 years ago and she was a joy. I really loved her because she didn't shed to much and the "drool" was really minimum. I trained my beagle myself and found it not to be that hard(crate stuff).---Now to the new stuff, id like to get a bigger dog like a Bloodhound size but I've been reading and I'm not sure if its the right dog for me. The thing that made me not want the bloodhound is the drooling, I have a great big yard(apox: 4 acres) and a rather large house(6100 sq/feet)that would offer plenty of room for a big dog, its just that its hard to keep up with where all he has been to clean up the drool if it is too much. I like the look of the bloodhound and their history, the things that i read about them look great and they seem like loveable dogs. If there is any other information I missed please ask! Any help greatly appreciated!

Answer
most large breeds drool. so even if someone reccomends a dog in this, none of us can guarantee that that dog will never drool.
the more skin the dog has around the mouth (like drooping like the blood hound) the more likely it would drool.
and dogs can drool if they're fixated on something. (like say a squrriel or something. ) and dogs can have a obsessive compulsive behavior too which can lead to drooling. (just watch out for obsessive behavior is what i'm trying to tell you)

i personally like great danes, samoyed, siberian husky, husky hybrid (1/2 wolf), spitz, kuvasz, vizsla, weimaraner, nova scotia duck tolling retriever...etc.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

When is it too late for a large breed dog to get Obedience Classes?

dog crates large breed image

Counting M

Does anyone know? I was also wondering if it would be too late for a large breed dog to be crate trained at about 1 year and a half years old.

Answer
It's never too late for training.

For the older dog, you have the advantage of not having the puppy adolescence to deal with. However, you do have a dog that can be more "set in their ways", and will need a little more time to do things like you want, not what they want. This being said, he can be trained.

Same goes for crate training. Never use the crate for punishment, and when you put him in the crate, give him a special treat and a favorite toy or bone. May the crate a "comfort zone" for the dog, a place he can go that no one will bother him and a place he can get away from everyone and everything when he wants to. When he's not locked in the crate, leave the door open so he can go in and out freely.

It may take a little longer than a puppy, but there is always a way to train any dog, regardless of age.

Do you use a crate for your large breed dog?

duman

Is there plenty of room for them in it? I have a couple dog beds for my dog so he can have somewhere depending on where we are in the house but I wondered if maybe they'd rather be in a crate? Are crates too cramped for large breeds?
Oh no, I wasn't asking for punishment purposes or anything. My dog is fine with free run of the house. I'd just read in here quite a few times that they like their crates and are more comfortable in them. I was just curious for that reason if I should get one.

Answer
I have two Mastiffs. The older of the two is three; he is not crated. The younger of the two, who is about a year and a half old, is indeed crated. He's crated for an hour after each meal to force the two dogs to relax separately (this is to reduce the risk of bloat). He used to be crated at night and whenever he couldn't be watched, but he's maturing nicely. Because both dogs have proven to be trustworthy with free run of the house, neither of them are crated overnight or in our absence.

Yes, there is plenty of room in the crate, when he is crated. You need to buy a crate that fits the dog, obviously. Because mine is a giant breed, I have an XL crate. It's, what, 54" long? It's like this:
http://www.pawzpetcarecenter.com/1154u.html
He has more than enough room to sit and stand up. He can easily turn around and can lay down in various positions. Because the crate is suitable for his size, he isn't at all cramped.

As for your situation, no, a crate sounds unnecessary. Crate-trained dogs should love their crates, yes, but dogs who aren't crate-trained and who do not need crates won't really benefit much from them. They might like the cozy atmosphere, but unless your dog displays anxious tendencies (in which case he would benefit from having somewhere safe to hide), then I'm sure he's perfectly fine sleeping on his beds instead.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Does any one know where I can get a inexpensive dog crate at?

dog crates giant breed image

Q. My Great Dane pup is out growing the large breed crate we have. I want to get the one for his breed but it is $250 at Feeder Supply and I was wondering if any one knows where is may be at for a little cheaper??
I's really prefer a new one I don't want another dogs scent in it.

Answer
You can order from JB Pet Supply. Crates are on sale right now too 15% off. The Great Dane size is $135.99. MidWest are some of the sturdiest crates too. JB's doesn't charge large/heavy item freight. I order all my crates from them for that reason. You might be able to order one someplace else a pinch cheaper, but the heavy freight charges end up making it more expensive in the long run.
Hope this helps.

http://www.jbpet.com/MidWest-Giant-Crate,1903.html

How do I get my roommate's dog to not hate me?

ThirdDegre

My roommate has been a good friend of mine for a while, and due to convenient circumstance I got to move in with her. It's a good setup so far, but the only real problem I have is with her dog.
I'm an animal person in general, but this one is an ugly, yappy little dachsund/chihuahua/Jack Russell mix who trusts no one but my friend. She has had several owners, and was probably abused at some point in the six years of her life. For this reason, my roommate refuses to get rid of her at all, but she has no time in her life to correct the dog's behavior.
I figured I could just put up with her when I was home, but that's not an option. She's not housebroken. She has severe separation and general anxiety. Roommate and I have stepped out for twenty minutes to go get food, making sure to take the dog out before we leave, and we come back to giant puddles and turds on the floor. Once she even broke into a closed room, raided through the clothes, and ate through three pairs of pants. One of them was mine.
Roommate explained that she was just "acting out" because she wasn't used to me being there. We got the dog a crate, which has helped, but every time I let her out when Roommate is at work, I can't even get the dog to go out. She cowers on the couch and submissively urinates there, which is disgusting. I don't even raise my voice or anything, I use a very friendly coaxing tone, but because I'm not her 'mama' she just lays down and voids her bowels where she is.
I understand by her body language that I'm viewed as a threat. I feel sorry for the thing, but I don't feel inclined to make friends with her. I also can't take on the responsibility of potty training her myself, since I don't have the time to do so (this would be my roommate's responsibility, if she'd ever step up to do so). I don't need her to like me, but if I'm going to live here I need to get it to the point where I can at least get her to go outside and do her business without having to drag her out by the harness.

tl;dr - Roommate's dog hates me and will only poop/pee outside for her. HELP.
Great advice so far, thank you all - I should definitely include that I was exaggerating when I said "drag her out by the harness." I have not dragged her anywhere, but I was so perplexed at how to get her to follow me out that that was the only scenario I could come up with, and it was not ideal...

Answer
Well, she IS a Doxie/Chi/JRT mix... Those 3 breeds together, mixed with the wrong type of owner, equals a freakishly neurotic animal. Professional training is probably the only hope she has at becoming more self-confident. She's had a rough life and obviously has issues... Meds will only help her so far, but consistent training should help her realize her potential. Also, all three breeds are "working" dogs, so if you can find some sort of "job" for her to do, it may help relieve some of her anxiety. Plus, any JRT mix needs lots of exercise, and it doesn't sound like she's getting nearly enough for her to burn up the excess energy she has, which is only contributing to the problem. Your friend either needs to make time in her life to focus on the dog's needs or find a good home for her to go to.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How can I stop my adult dog from peeing on the couch when home alone?

dog crates in walmart image

My dog is now 7, when he was about 4, he started peeing on the couch when I'm not home. He knows its wrong, because on the days he pees on the couch, he will run outside as soon as I get home. How do I get him to stop if he only does it when I'm gone and I can't catch him in the act?

Answer
Very simple, put him in a room where there's no sofa to pee on or you crate him.

You need to neutralize, not just deodorize and clean - get pet urine neutralizer at the pet store or Walmart - that sofa now or your dog will continue to pee there as "his spot".

Baby gate him into a safe area if you don't crate train, why would you leave your dog to roam the house when he does that?
Make sure he doesn't have urinary tract infection, however, some dogs try to show you that by peeing where you'll notice it.

I bought a dog training crate it doesn't have a divider panel what can I use?

Yes

I bought this crate At Walmart as part of proceeds go to ASPCA.First I got the 36x28x30 for 8 week old boxer it just didn't seem big enough for when he gets bigger..I changed to the 42x28x30.

Answer
You can use a small square of chicken wire (Found at Home Depot, OSH, etc) and zip-tie it to the crate. (Assuming you bought a metal crate?)

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

can you keep a mini lop rabbit in a 20 by 30 plastic dog kennel?

best dog kennel bedding image

just wonde

as ive said before i would like to have a minilop rabbit
(i dont have one yet). would there be enough space in a 20 by 30 dog kennel for a mini lop rabbit? also how much does it cost to own a mini lop rabbit or a year (Canadian $) the cage has ventalation windows and im pretty sure it could fit one mini lop rabbit. i would take the rabbit out of the cage atleast once a day to rome around my back yard . i have two dgs (border collies) and the cage used to be a bed for one of them so its pretty big

Answer
20 by 30 in what units? inches? feet? centimeters? That info would help. Rabbits are okay outside but it is much better to keep them indoors. During the warmer months, especially spring and fall, it is fine to let them roam around outside in a supervised, enclosed location. In the very hot summer months and the winter they should be kept indoors as they easily overheat in the summer and can die of heatstroke.

So to get to your questions, if the kennel is in inches, then it will be okay for the rabbit to sleep in, but it will need to have time outside of it's cage, a few hours a day. This should be in a supervised area where all wires are covered or taken away so the rabbit doesn't chew them. Also you want to make sure he won't chew furniture and rugs that you don't want ruined, which is why you should supervise him. Make sure the dogs are not going to go for the rabbit, and that he isn't too scared of them. I have rabbits and a large dog and they get along alright as long as we keep him away when he gets too playful - he doesn't know how easy he could hurt them.

In terms of cost, for one rabbit, here are the supplies you will need for starters:
cage (which you have)
food: Hay - $6/bag probably 1-2 bags per month, Vegetables - assorted leafy greens, broccoli, carrots, etc., Pellets (5lb bag about $8)
treats - stick with dried cranberries! they love them
water/food dishes: about $20
Litter box - $10-15
Litter - use a non-clumping litter, like Yesterday's News (available in Canada) $8 for 13lb bag
Brush, nail clippers, toys $20-30
So you are looking at about $70-90 just for supplies to start up. After that, you will need to continue purchasing litter, food, and treats.

I would budget $40/month on food and litter and that should be plenty for one rabbit.

If you get a baby, you are going to have to make sure you feed him according to his age. Information on what you should feed at different stages can be found here:
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/diet.html

Please remember that it is easy to litter train bunns. They make very good pets but they are NOT low maintenance and require a lot of social interaction to stay happy and healthy. They can live between 8-12 years. Vet costs should also be considered - the biggest fee will be the cost of spaying/neutering. If you are in the GTA or surrounding area you can email me at amylouie07@yahoo.ca and I can suggest some good vets for bunnies. They do not require yearly shots, but should get yearly checkups and you need to familiarize yourself with the signs of illness, since they can get sick very quickly and it can be costly if not caught and taken care of fast.
http://www.rabbit.org has lots of info all about rabbits. If you are in the GTA area and want to adopt a rabbit, which will come fixed and health checked, check out http://www.rabbitrescue.ca
Email me any other questions and I can help you.

What is an easy and nice annual flowering vine to grow?

Nikki S

We recently built a flower bed bordering our very large dog kennel in order to hide the ugly chain link fence surrounding it. I'd like to plant a fast growing, easy and pretty annual flowering vine and need some ideas. I may also plant some perennial vines, but read that it's best to plant some perennial and annual vines the first year as the perennials may take a year or two to establish. Please help!

Answer
The olny one's i can think of are: Sweet pea, Honey suckle,
passion flower,clematis and even Ivy.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What is the best kind of crate that my dog will now chew through?

dog crates reviews image

Gail

My dog has already absolutely demolished one plastic crate. She ate through the side of it. I got a wire crate and now she has cracked the bottom plastic tray into many pieces so it is ruined. I only keep her in a crate while I am at work, but I need the best so she doesn't end up hurting herself.
will NOT chew through ***
Lorraine...the dog is only in the crate for two days a week maybe 4 hours at a time. I go home at lunch and let her out of the crate for a bathroom break. The vet told me she has severe separation anxiety and prescribed xanax and a tranquilizer for her. I cannot leave her uncrated. She would have the house destroyed.

Answer
You have a couple of options. There are dog crates that are made for chewers and dog exercise pens that are made for chewers, both have thicker gauge wire. The two links below have crate and pen reviews and will give you tips to find the best one for your dog. Best wishes.

What makes you appreciate your dog groomer?

Jodie24

Does he/she provide a service to your pet that sets them apart from other groomers in your area? I'm interested in learning dog grooming and am training with a groomer now. Down the road I would like to have my own business and am thinking of marketing strategies, services, etc. Would appreciate knowing why you chose the groomer you did. Thank you.

Answer
Not all dog groomers are the same. I'm still looking for a good one. Just picked up my dog from the groomer today (his first time). I needed to take him because he needed to be bathed and I couldn't do it myself this time.

So after I got him home he rushed towards his potty spot and didn't quite make it (diarhea).
Then I got him inside and he drank water like he hadn't had a drink in days.

I don't know what went on at the groomers, but my dog wasn't cared for properly during his time there (9:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.).

When I asked to see their facilities, they wouldn't show me the whole area, and limited my view to the holding area with the kennels.
Needless to say I worried about my dog the whole time. When it was finally time to pick him up, he looked great, smelled good, and was ecstatic to be going home.
But the doubt still exists in my mind whether my boy was given water or a reasonable potty break all day long.

I will be posting a review of this groomer in my local internet directory.

What I would appreciate from a groomer so that I will give them repeat business, Would be a full tour of their facility. I want to know that the kennel or the holding crate will be sanitized before my dog is placed inside.
I want to know that my dog will be given water and proper time to do his business during the course of the day.

Even if I asked for refferences, how could I be sure that the those other customers knew or were shown anything more than the breif glimpse that I was allowed. Sure they'll give a good reference if their dog looks great..and smells nice.. but what about the rest?.
Yes the ears and bath and nails etc, etc.... But I was so concerned about the esthetics, that I never stopped to think about my dog's comfort and physical well being. Well ..live and learn as they say.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Can rabbit live in large portable dog cage?

wire dog crates xl image

rossandre1

Can it live outside in it and if so how can I get it off the ground

Answer
Andrea - wire bottomed cages are REALLY BAD FOR RABBITS, they are only used by lazy keepers who keep their rabbits in small housing so the rabbits have no choice but to live in filthy surroundings.

To the original poster, dog crates can be used as bases for INDOOR rabbits, a crate with some puppy pen panels around it to create a run or used in a bunny proofed room are fine for rabbits - but it needs to be an XL crate.

They are NOT suitable for outdoor use though as they are not weather proof. Outdoors a rabbit needs a hutch/run combo (a minimum 6x2x2 hutch with permanent run), or a converted playhouse/shed with run, or an aviary/dog kennel and run. Ideally a minimum of 60 square foot.

Rabbits are not animals that should live in cages, they need space to run and bounce when THEY choose to and not when you choose to let them out!

should i give "my" dog back?

Its T-Bone

About 6 months ago I moved from a house to an apartment and could not keep my dog. A friend of mine said he knew someone that was looking for a dog. We met with the guy, he seemed nice and he sounded like he was going to be able to give her the attention she needs. We GAVE him the dog, purebred husky that my girlfriend and i paid $800 for, and all of her supplies, XXL wire dog crate that cost about 180, an XL outdoor crate/shelter ($140), prescribed flea medicine, tons of leashes, harnesses, collars and toys. Also right before we gave her away she had been freshly vaccinated and he was also given (2) 40 lbs bags of food for her. He was told that we had registered her properly through the city so he would need to take the necessary steps to get everything transferred to his name, address, etc. We gave this guy the full setup. He didn't need to buy a thing. All he had to do was provide proper care. Well about a month ago he calls me saying he's moving and he cant keep the dog. I told him that's fine we're in a position now to take her back if we have too so i told him lets meet up tomorrow and I'll pick her up. I went to the guys house and he wasn't there, called but no answer. It wasn't until about 2 days later when he called and said he gave her to another person. Another month went by and I got a call from the company she's registered with saying that she's been found and that the people that have would like for me to pick her up ASAP. The pet registration folks gave the me info of the people that had her and they say they found her behind a building and she needs immediate vet car as it appeared she had been attacked by another stray. When I get to where she was i can see deep gashes and obvious bite wounds in her rear end and back legs. I take her to the vet and they clean her up, give her stitches and antibiotics.

My question is, am I obligated to track the guy that had her down and say "I have the dog, she was hurt but I took care of her and here she is", which I have tried by the way, none of his contact numbers are connected anymore, or do I just not say anything and keep her? I paid for all of her vet care, the "new" owner failed to properly register obviously because I was contacted when she was found and they also failed to provide proper shelter and fencing for her which led to her escape and encounter with another aggressive dog.

Answer
No. You keep your dog as long as you can provide a home for it. the other guy obviously didn't want to tell you that the dog was lost. I feel bad that you will have to replace all the stuff for the pup, but you don't owe the guy anything at all. Not even an expanation. Best of luck to your reunited family!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Newf owners - Why does it seem hard to find Newfs as rescues?

dog crate 900 image

Expo

I am looking to get a newfoundland in a couple years down the road. Ideally, I would like to rescue a dog rather than get a pup off a breeder, but newfoundlands seem to be scarce whenever I check sites like petfinder. I ask about puppies because I would like to get a dog young to help solidify a strong bond from an early stage. Did you guys have to go to a breeder to find newf pups? Cause they seem scarce in the rescue department.

Answer
Members of the Newfoundland Club of America are usually on top of things where millers are concerned. Newfies require a lot of room (crate wise) so it isn't feasible for them to breed Newfs. You could probably fit 8 Yorkie crates in place of one Newf crate. There are still a few millers out there breeding Newfs, though.

BYB's - there are tons of BYB's breeding Newfs. Since Newfies from a reputable breeder cost around $2000, a BYB can get at least $900 from an uneducated prospective Newf owner.

I will add this - just because you don't see the Newf on Petfinder - it doesn't mean the rescue doesn't have what you are looking for. Some are in the evalutation stage, some require surgery, some just don't get posted because besides rescue and foster, many of these folks work full time and have Newfs of their own. There are also private Newf rescues, as well.

Here is the National Rescue Contact Info - for regional club rescues.

http://www.ncarescue.org/pages/rescuemap.html#.UDqMYexy2q0

How much does a beagle puppy cost?

MJ fan 4ev

I don't mind getting one from an animal shelter.

Answer
It largely depends on the breeder and quality of the puppy as far as it living up to AKC standards. You can also rescue one at a shelter. My son adopted his dog at a shelter for $70.00. As for breeders....The prices are between $200.00 up to $900.00. If you buy from a breeder in another state, you will have to pay for the airplane transport and an airline approved crate.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers