Best Dog Kennel: 2014-05-11

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Sabtu, 17 Mei 2014

is dog crate waaaay too cheap?

So, i am looking for cheap dog crate, and i found this one, but the price ..... it says it's good quality, but i really dont know....i was willing to pay $20 for a crate, but then i found this one.... please help me! I just need ur opinion. :)

Other comments or suggestion will be VERY helpful :)

thanks.

oh here is the crate:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pawhut-24-Wire-Folding-Dog-Cage-Crate-Kennel-w-Divider-/140600248038?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bc6d86e6

Answer
Yes, it's a GREAT deal if you can get it for that. However, you have to bid on the item and it depends on how much the other people and yourself are willing to pay. You will not find a new crate for $20 though. Crates are expensive unless you can find a good one used on craigslist or at a yard sale.

Where can I buy a cheap dog crate in Aus?

Joni

I am hoping to get a yorkie poo pup soon and I was wondering where I could buy a cheap dog crate in Australia? Also, does the dog need the crate when it gets older? If it doesn't, what would be the best age to get rid of the cage? Thanks :)

Answer
Your little mutt (which I hope you are adopting from a shelter!) would do best in a small crate.

Here are a couple to get you started on your research:
http://shop.vebopet.com.au/store/small-24-collapsible-metal-pet-crate.html
http://www.mypetwarehouse.com.au/ALL-FOR-PAWS-WIRE-CRATE-SMALL-61CMX46CMX53CM-p-18188
http://www.petsunleashed.com.au/wire-crate-small

Yes, you can continue to use the crate as the dog gets older. He/she will most likely seek it out to sleep and lie in.

What's crate training for dogs????

Q. i'v aways heard of crate training but i have no idea what it is

Answer
The instructions that follow are designed to teach a dog to enjoy being in a crate. The speed with which you progress depends upon the dog and whether he already dislikes the crate. If your dog has a history with the crate and is now reluctant to go in, get a different type of crate and work through the steps very slowly. There are wire crates, plastic airline crates, and mesh crates. The mesh crate is the most portable but is inappropriate for dogs who are big on chewing. The mesh and airline crates provide the most privacy for the dog. Some dogs like to have a blanket or towel draped over the wire crate to give a more âdenlikeâ feel. Truly crate-phobic dogs may need preliminary training with crate-like structures. For instance, you might wish to teach the dog to walk under a suspended tarp, step between two upright boards, or lie down in the bottom half of an airline crate (top removed) before ever introducing him to a crate. Difficult dogs also benefit from training to sit, down, stay, and to step forward and back, as this gives you more precision in instructing the dog on exactly what behavior youâd like him to perform.

How to get a dog to not pee when you get home?

Madilyn

Hey i have a dog and she a puppy but is almost one and she always pees when i get home or my anyone and it not good anymore i hate having to clean it up....i always take her outside when i get home but she just cant control it!any ideas to help me? Thank You(:

Answer
This can be a frustrating problem! I am a certified dog trainer, and have worked with a number of dogs with this issue.

One of the best things you can to is to prevent it from happening. Crate train your puppy properly. Check out my website for in-depth information on how to do this: http://www.precision-dog-training.com/crate-training-a-dog.html.

Only use the crate as a positive, enjoyable thing - never as a punishment or time-out. Start by letting her check the crate out on her own, have a blanket inside, and leave the door open. You can toss a treat in, say "Crate" or "Place" and let her run in to get the treat and then come back out again.

Repeat this exercise for a couple days, and then start closing the door behind her once she's inside. Only leave it closed for a few seconds, then let her out again. Slowly increase the amount of time that you leave her in for. Keep in mind, do not let her out for barking or whining - she should be quiet before the door comes open.

As you're increasing the amount of time, give her a chew toy, bone or a kong with a little bit of peanut butter in it to keep her busy. Always be sure to take her out to relieve herself before putting her in the crate. By slowly building up the amount of time that she is in there (while you're home), you'll soon be ready to leave her in the crate when you go out.

Along with this, start desensitizing her to your coming home. What do I mean? Have her in the house with you, and prepare to leave. Put your coat and shoes on, grab your keys and purse, and go out the door. Close the door, and then come right back in. Ignore your puppy when you re-enter the house, take off your shoes and coat, etc., and continue on with your normal activities.

Do this several times a day until she is not reacting to your return. Then stay outside the house for 30 seconds to a minute, doing everything else the same. Again, when she is not reacting, increase the amount of time that you stay out of the house. You want her to think that your return is no big deal.

Walk her before you leave, giving her time to relieve herself. Then tell her to go in her crate, and give her a bone, toy or kong to work on. For the first few times, only leave the house for an hour or two. When you return, be quiet and calm. Act like there is nothing exciting about your return.

Let her out of the crate, and immediately take her outside. Praise when she pees outside!

What activities should I do over the summer if I'm bored?

Annie

Be CRAZY, CREATIVE, UNUSUAL, AND FUN!!!! Do you recommend any camps in the northerneastern side of the US(NY, NJ, PA)

Answer
Play a computer game (scrabble, mah jong or bridge for me), read a book or magazine, do crossword puzzles or sudoku, listen to music, watch a movie, write in a journal, play a board game, or answer questions here on yahoo answers. Cook something, clean the house, go for a walk, work out, call a friend, send emails, visit someone, or even go shopping.

Writing in a journal is an interesting thing to do, especially when you go back weeks or months or even years later and read what you wrote. Buy yourself an interesting blank journal that represents who you are, and start writing your daily thoughts, ideas, and important events. You'll be surprised at how quickly you will look forward to the time you spend with it each day. And it could become a powerful record for posterity.

Look for a new hobby. Find something that is of particular interest to you. Possibly you might like to begin researching and compiling your family tree. I am sure many members of your family would encourage you with a project such as that. A couple of other things that come to mind that I have found interesting in the past, and they now occupy my grandchildren are learning to do origami (read the story about Sadako and the 1000 paper cranes, and maybe start a paper crane project of your own), and another is learning to tie different knots (most book stores will have a book on the different knots, and it is quite interesting, and also a very useful skill to have).

Take a class - learn the finer points of digital photography, painting, writing short stories, small appliance repair, playing bridge, dog grooming, pottery, home maintenance, carpentry, plumbing, quilting, scrapbooking, or anything else that is offered in your area. Often you can find classes that are free, or almost free.

Finally, and probably most importantly, if you find yourself bored often, consider volunteering. It will give you a new focus in your life, and it is a good feeling to help someone less fortunate or more in need than yourself. It can be a life changing experience.

Boredom is a choice you make, not a state of existence. If you are bored, it is because you are allowing yourself to be bored. Look around you. Most likely you have books, and a wide variety of other possessions. Look at the things around you and think of ways to use them. If there are people around you, think of ways to help those people. Think of others and how to help them, not yourself, and you will never be bored.

Getting a puppy in NYC?

Anne V-B

I really would like a puppy. I am a responsible teenager with a rather large apartment and I live very near to a big park. My parents are OK with it but they would like a dog that medium sized. does not bark, does not shed, and very friendly. So far, the best thing I came up with was a Portuguese water dog. Is this the right choice for NYC? If so, where do I get a PUPPY? Please give specific links. Thanks in advance! xox

Answer
I'm a NY'er. Brooklynite to be exact.

Now, since you live in an apartment with your parents, they will have to find out if its OK with the landlord, co-op or condo board first. Many apartment buildings have weight limits, so they will need to find out if this applies to the building you live in.

There are many breeds that a low-shedders, medium sized and not yappers. You do need to know that Portugese Water Dogs are very active dogs. I have friends who own them, remember, they are a working breed. The other breed that would do well is a Miniature Poodle or maybe even a Standard Poodle. Keep in mind, that both breeds need to go to the groomer at least every 6 weeks.

Once you decide which breed you like, you need to visit the Portugese Dog Club of America, the Poodle Club of Amerca or any other breed club. That's how you will find a reputable breeder. Finding a reputable breeder is important because both, Porties and Poodles have many health problems, from hip dysplasia to autoimmunie disease to cancer.

You can also find the rescue groups for these breeds. Besides beginning at the dog clubs I listed above, also go to the AKC or InfoDog to find an upcoming show. Take your parents to the show, look at the different breeds, talk to the owner/handlers of the dogs you like.

There will be a bunch of shows in NYC and Seacucus, NJ in Feb. There will also be a show in Suffren, NY and in CT. You can find all the shows thru Infodog.

BTW, any dog of any breed or mix, can do well in an apartment. It's up to the owner to give the dog the mental stimulation and exercise it requires.

Kamis, 15 Mei 2014

Looking for travel options from Toronto to New York area for my mom and her little dog.?

sarahjane1

Has anyone had any experience with crating a dog for a flight? train? Bus? Any other ideas or options?

Answer
If the dog is little, she may be able to bring the dog onto the plane with her in lieu of a carry-on bag. Each airline is different, but normally they allow up to 2 pets per flight to be in the passenger area. The crate must be big enough so that the dog can move around comfortably. If the crate is too big, then she will have to check the dog. The dog will be fed and given water, and then your mom can pick it up at the end of the flight.

Here is the pet info from Continental Airlines:
http://www.continental.com/web/en-US/content/travel/animals/default.aspx

In the alternative, NY is not far from Canada so she could probably just rent a car and put the dog in the back seat. I think that most trains do not allow pets (I checked on Amtrak for a trip from NY to Boston, and they said no even though dog is only 6lbs.) Buses also usually restrict bringing pets on - plus there is no room to store the crate. You may have to buy a second seat.

flight from new york to akron?

mama

anyone can help me? Could you tell me which is the cheapest airline to fly from new york to akron?
and also,There are good companies that allow you to fly with dogs from akron to Germany?
thanks!!!

Answer
Only Air Tran flies direct from New York to Akron-Canton. You should look into flights to Cleveland also.

As far as bringing your dog to Germany, you need to check German dog quarantine laws - countries don't just let you bring animals in. You might have to show the dog's medical records, and it may have to be quarantined on arrival. And no airlines will let you bring the dog into the passenger section - it will go in a crate in the cargo hold.

Rabu, 14 Mei 2014

What height of ex pen should I get for a German Shepherd puppy?

Getting an 8 week old GS puppy soon and wondering about the height of the ex pen...36 inches okay, or does it need to be taller? I'm just using it in the house when we're home to keep the puppy in it's own little space. Thanks.

Answer
36 inches (3 feet) will be perfect for an 8 week old German Shepherd puppy. However, that puppy is going to grow very fast and will be able to climb a 36 in. x-pen with no doubt. 48 inches (4 feet) would be best if you are planning to use it as she gets older and much larger.

Another idea, which I highly suggest to people, is to crate train. Dogs are den animals. A crate will provide your puppy with a place of his own. When a puppy is left home alone or is not able to be watched 100% then he should be crated for his own safety. Personally, I would never use anything but a crate. My oldest German Shepherd (3 years) is now trusted to be allowed to roam the kitchen when we are gone. My other German Shepherd (1 year) is still too much of a puppy to be completely trusted and she is still crated while we are gone. Neither of them need to be crated at night anymore. My youngest absolutely *loves* her crate and lays in there on her own multiple times per day.

The down side to an x-pen is that once the puppy grows into a full size German Shepherd, he will easily be able to jump up on the x-pen, move it around, and knock it over. As long as you are home, I don't see a problem with it because you can keep an eye on him. I would not leave him in the x-pen while you are gone though. I suggest hitting two birds with one stone and just buying a crate.

How long do German Shepherds get?

kraziekati

I want to buy my German Shepherd puppy (she's 4 months old) a dog bed, but one that will be big enough for her when she's full grown. She's in a crate for the time being, because she's still being potty trained (she still has a few accidents now and then), but once she's trained, she won't be in a crate (we'll just be putting a bed down where her crate is). Her crate is 30" long, but quickly getting too small for her. I just want to know how long they get, from snout to rump/base of tail. Does anyone know what the average size is?

Answer
German Shepherds are a large-breed dog which generally are between 55 and 65 centimeters (22 and 26 in) at the withers and weigh between 22 and 40 kilograms (49 and 88 lb). That's the technical....I just measured my girl and she is about 35 inches long. I would get your dog a bed that fits up to 48 inches so that your best friend is nice and comfy! Good Luck! P.S. Both my dogs have beds called Snuggle Balls, or Slumber Balls. They love them and the outsides zip off so I can wash them! :)

What to do with a dog that tears everything in sight?

Nicoleeee

My new dog is a little over a year old and we've had him for a week now. He is a VERY large, energized, and fluffy Akita and means no harm.
As soon as we got him inside the house, he started ripping and shredding things like the decorative pillows, throwing papers around, and just making the house look like a tornado had just hit. We tried enforcing that acting in such a manner isn't preferred but he never seems to comprehend.
He never seems to calm down, either. He's always jumping around, running people over, which makes matters worse. It also doesn't help that we have a 5 year old living in the house whom he can just crush in a matter of 5 seconds.
I really want to avoid giving him away at all cost. I can't even fathom the idea.

What would you suggest?
Thanks!

Answer
You should buy a crate large enough for him to just stand up and turn around in and keep him in there when you can't keep a constant watch on him. Make it his safe place. Don't use it as a punishment.

Also, how much exercise are you allowing him? You should be taking him for at least 2-3 walks per day and an at least an hour of playtime, outdoors, each day as well. During this time you can play fetch, and work on training techniques. You should be working on the basics such as sit, stay, lay down, etc.

A bored dog is a destructive dog.

I'm having some inside dog problems.?

Foxworthy

My dog is an outside dog and i recently trained him to be i an inside dog (via not peeing or crapping anywhere, completely calm, obeys commands), but there is one more things to scratch off the list.

1: my room mate just has to have her little square pillows on the couch. PROBLEM: My dog thinks her pillows are chew toys.

if anyone can help me with this, respond. please.

-Jeff "Foxworthy" Koen

PS: BLAM >:( (from newgrounds.com)

Answer
You could try getting some of that "bitter" spray that makes the object taste nasty. However, I had a lab (and I tired every single kind of spray out there) and he just thought it was sort of like icing on a cake. Yum!
Some dogs are just chewers. You are not going to be able to avoid that. So instead you need to adjust your way of doing things to protect the dogs and your home (a pillow is full of fluffy stuff that can cause obstruction when eaten - very dangerous for a dog)

Give him a bed of his own, on the floor in the main living area - then tell him the couch is off limits. If he's not on the couch, he won't be able to get at the pillow.

Don't get him any cloth chew-toys. To a dog that regularly gets fabric chew-toys, that pillow is nothing but a great big chew toy that, for some reason you are not sharing. They don't get it.

Offer him other toys. If you catch him chewing on the pillow, say "no" in a very stern voice. Then hand him something that he *can* chew on. Take him over to his bed and praise him when he chews on the correct object.

Lastly, consider crating him when you are not home to make sure that he is not chewing things. While some owners find this cruel, dogs actually like their crate, considering it their own special little den.

Good luck to you! On both counts - the dog who is still learning and the roommate who won't budge on decorative pillows. :)

Selasa, 13 Mei 2014

Can I crate my dog while at work?

Joey

We are currently leaving our shihtzu in our bathroom with her crate, toys, food and water while at work. She is fine in there, but everyday when I get home its the same routine. I have to clean up pee and poop. She has chewed the trim terribly, tore the drywall, and now she is chewing on the wooden vanity cabinets. My bathroom starting to smell and I cannot take it anymore. Also, she isn't completely housetrained and I attribute this to her just being able to go potty in the bathroom whenever she feels like it. She will potty outside when we are home, but sometimes she still just goes in the house without warning. My bathroom is going to be a total wreck if I can't find a solution. I don't want to be cruel, but if I don't do something Im afraid she will always think she can potty in the house, not to mention my bathroom will have to be remodeled. She would be in her crate different hours on different days, since my wife and I have different schedules. No more than 6-8 hours at a time.
Somedays not even 6 hours.

Answer
Once again a dog being blamed for not being trained. It is not the dogs fault she was never trained properly. Sounds like she is not exorcised enough either. How long do you walk her before shutting her up in the bathroom?
First, house train her. Yes it takes time and effort on your part. Then train her on what is acceptable to chew, again, time and effort on your part. Third give her a couple of long walks every day. Yes, more time and effort.
As for your question, many, many people leave their dog crated for the dogs protection as well as that of their home. They are fine. Just remember to take off her collar and leave nothing in the crate she can get pieces off of to choke on.
If your dog is over 8 months old forget step 1.

1 - The first thing to remember about house
training a puppy is they can not hold
themselves long. Rule of thumb is 1 hour
for each month old. Therefore a 3 month
old pup should be able to control himself/
herself for 3 hours.

2 - The second thing to remember is you
take the pup out, on a leash, to be walked.
Not send the pup out. You have to be there
when pooch does the deed so you can
praise the pup, right then. Let the pup know
it is a job well done. Throw a real praise party!
There are key times a pup needs to be taken
out. When pooch wakes up from any sleep
time & at bed time. After eating and/or
drinking. After playing, exercise stimulates
the "need to go."

3 - Plus there are the odd times when a
pups gotta do what a pups gotta do. You
have to learn the pups behavior when
looking for the spot to go. Pups should
not have the run of the house till pooch
is trained. You should keep the pup in
the room with you so you can keep an
eye on pooch. When you see the search,
get 'em outside. If you catch the pup
making a pile or puddle, just say "NO!",
pick pooch up and get 'em outside. Use
an enzyme cleaner (Natures Miracle or
Simple Solutions)(pet store) to clean up.
Do not let the pup see you cleaning up,
it gives them the idea that is your job.
Outside is okay, just not inside. If you
find a puddle or pile after the fact, clean
it up with an enzyme cleaner (pet food
store) get a newspaper and hit....
yourself in the head and say "I should
have been paying more attention." Do
not try to punish a pup after the fact.
They will NOT get it.

4 - You have to be diligent & consistent.
I can not stress that enough so let me
repeat. You have to be diligent & consistent.
If you do your job the pup will catch on
pretty quick.

5 - You need to keep pooch contained
at night. Either crate or put the pup in a
bathroom. But remember the 1 hour rule.
You should get up and take 'em out at night.

6 - You can also teach the pup to go on
command by picking the word you will
use for each function, when the pup is
about to go repeat the word till the pup
starts going then tell 'em what a good
boy/girl they are.

7 - You can also teach them to ring a
bell when they need to go by mounting
one low on the door frame and ring it
with the pups foot when you go out.

8 - Last thing, never, ever rub your
pups nose in their waste. Besides
being nasty it only tells the pup you
want pooch to ingest the waste. Also,
never, ever hit a dog. That will only
tell the dog you are not to be trusted.
So, these are the 8 Steps to
House training a Puppy Good luck!

how do you house train a 1 year old rescue dog with no prior training?

Mark Brown

we adopted a secong rescue dog her name is charlie (she looks like charlie from all dogs go to heaven) and she had no prior training to us getting her...we have got her to come sit and basic commands like that but she goes potty in the house no matter how many times we take her on walk or let her out back.....we tried to crate train her and she has chewed her way out of 3 crates...a metal one a plastic one and a wooden one...and when she gets out she chews up books games dvds goes after the cats food and prety much tears up anything she can....she is almost impossible to walk due to her pulling...and we have tried corrective harness and everything and she was attacked by another dog and now whenever we take her to the dog park we have to make sure no one is there cause she goes crazy and wont stop barking...but she doesnt act that way around our older dog cooper (he is a chow and rotty mix...also rescue but one of the best dogs i ever had).....if anyone has any tricks that might help i would really appreciate it

Answer
Hey Mark. I would definitely invest in a dog trainer for this case. Charlie (I love that name! Someday I'm going to get a rescue Pyr and name him Charlie!) sounds like she has so many problems that a trainer would be so beneficial for your family and her. But here are the most likely causes and common solutions for her problems:

1. I'm assuming she's chewing through her crate when you are gone? This is a classic case of separation anxiety. Think about it from her POV. She's been put in this wire cage and then you leave. Well she doesn't know where you went, she doesn't know that you are going to come back in 2 hours. Because she doesn't know, she goes into panic mode and starts thinking, "I need to get out of here!" and starts fighting to get out of the crate. Her anxiety is like a panic attack for humans. It's scary for her. This sounds so bad and unfortunately it can be quite common in rescue dogs, especially ones that have come from a typical shelter enviornment. A professional trainer will be of great benefit in this situation as they will have a very specific treatment plan and will be able to tell you if a visit to the vet is a good idea to look into anti-anxiety medication or if the issue can be solved with behavioral modification alone will work.

2. 90% of shelter dogs are not housebroken when they are adopted, even if they were brought in housebroken. The reason for this is because in the shelter they are not able to go outside to go to the bathroom. Volunteers and staff members can't get every dog out every day to do to the bathroom, that would be a full time job in itself. When a housetrained dog comes into the shelter they will try to hold it for as long as they can until they give up and go in their kennel and then they just keep doing it. Be diligent with your potty breaks and try giving her a treat every time she pottys in the right place. Now you're reinforcing and telling her that if she goes potty outside she gets something yummy, so she'll be more likely to perform that behavior again. Remember that you MUST go outside with her to give her the verbal and physical praise she needs when ever she goes potty outside. That is the MOST important part of potty training. If you don't consistently tell her she did something right, she is never going to know if she did or not.

3. She has likely never been taught to walk properly on a leash or if she has, she's just so excited to finally be out and wants to see as much of the world as she can. This is easy. Start on your walk and the second she gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling you say "Ah!" and walk in the other direction for 5 steps; say "Good Girl" if she stays near you and doesn't pull and turn around again. This may result in you walking in circles for a long time, but that's okay. You're trying to get her to realize that she doesn't get to go where she wants to if she doesn't stay near you and that she has to pay attention to you and where your going on walks.

4. You're bang on with the dog aggression issue. The other dog attacked her and now she feels so vulnerable around other dogs and is scared that they will attack her that she puts up a wall and tells the other dogs "Hey, don't mess with me. I won't let you get me again." This can be a simple issue to fix. Have another dog that she is not familiar with or that you know she barks at (but is unresponsive) stand in the middle of an open space, with another person holding its leash of course. Now you and Charlie (on leash) should start walking towards them; make sure you are starting from a very long distance and that both of you have firm grips on the leash. The second Charlie starts barking, you stop. When Charlie stops barking for a full 5 seconds then you and her turn around and walk away. Repeat this a BUNCH of times. Your goal is for her to understand that the dog is 1) not a threat and 2) that her barking does not affect the dog and 3) she only gets to walk away from the dog (which is what she's wanting) if she is quiet. Don't let Charlie's leash be taught. A tight leash can stress a dog out and make the problem worse. Also make sure that you are calm and not nervous or she will believe there is something to be nervous about. It may be best to work on this after she has learned to not pull on the leash.

Thanks for not giving up on Charlie. I know she can be the dog of your dreams and you are obviously committed enough to making her a permanent member of your family.

Facing eviction - Dog crate training issues?

Ian

We recently took in a one year old lab who's previous owner abandoned him and left town. A neighbor called us and we decided to adopt him.

After we got him back up to a healthy weight and he started getting sociable (about three months) he started crying / whining whenever we leave the house, to the point where we can be several houses away and still hear him and people have started complaining. He's also started destroying things in our house and scratching the paint off the front door of the house when we're gone.

Faced with eviction due to complaints and damage to our rental property, we purchased a crate. Since we didn't do much research first and we're on our last warning with the landlords about the damage to the walls and door, we forced him into it the first couple of days when we had to leave the house. That didn't help the crying, but it did solve the damage issue.

Since then we've found out that's not the correct way to do things (we're first time dog owners), we're trying to do things properly. We've got the cage open with his favorite toys and his food and water in the back of it, and he hasn't eaten or drank anything all day because he won't go near it. Yesterday my wife gave up and moved his food and water outside the crate, but we've been advised that he'll go in it when he gets hungry enough and to stick to our guns.

This has got us both feeling terrible, but everyone we've talked to swears dogs won't starve themselves and to keep with it or he'll learn he can go hungry long enough and we'll back down.

How do we undo the damage here? If we don't get this resolved and get him to quit crying, which was the purpose of the crate originally, trying to give him his own place where he feels safe to lower his anxiety, we're homeless on 02/28. Either that, or we have to give up the dog to the pound as nobody else will take him, and I'm fairly confident as overpopulated as the animal shelters in Phoenix are that he'll be put down.
There are two specific questions here:

How do we get him to like the crate? He won't go in it, or near it. Its in the middle of the house and he gives it a wide berth, to the point of not eating to avoid it. I think he's angry at us, because he's become more destructive since we've started this.

How do we stop the crying? Protecting the house and getting kicked out anyways isn't going to help much.

Answer
Well you sure have a dilemma here. And up front, as a tenant myself, with dogs, I absolutely urge you not to allow this dog to cause any more damage to the property as it's hard enough to find rental properties which will accept dogs as it is!! It's easy to say should have thought about this before taking him on, but it's relevant. I do commend you for rescuing this poor lad however, so hopefully this can yet be sorted out. Fact is a lonely and bored Lab, especially, will be destructive like this, and given his size, if he shouts, he will upset the neighbours. It does need for somebody to be home most of the time to get the crate problem sorted out - although again, no adult dog should ever be in a crate for longer than 4 hours without the opportunity to empty.

Can you get him into a day-creche when you are not home? Or get somebody to come in with him - much as all the time is unlikely!

All I can say is you have some very serious decisions to make and unfortunately if push comes to shove, you surely have to keep a roof over your heads don't you? If you move with the dog, you'll need a good reference if you stand any chance of finding another dog-friendly rental property, which it sounds as if will be unlikely as your dog has already done damage, and attracted complaints.

Why not contact Labrador Rescue and see if they'll take him in, and find him a suitable new home? Are you sure your local Shelter WILL put him to sleep - I'm afraid I see this as your only option.

Flying with dog?

darlyngirl

How traumatic would it be for my dog to fly from Chicago to Detroit (1hour 15 minutes flight) this friday? It would be at 9:50 at night so not over 85 degrees. The only airline offering a late enough flight is American (though I hear Continental is great with dogs). Will it be worse for him because the plane is only at constant level for about 15 minutes and is ascending and descending the rest of the time?

I don't have a car.
Train won't take dogs.
Bus won't take dogs.
Rental cars won't let us return it in Michigan.
Oh yeah and he's 15 inches tall not including his head so WAY too big to be allowed in the cabin (crates can be no bigger than 8 inches tall)
I may be MOVING back to Canada on Friday (with any luck). My dad would drive down in a week or so to get all my stuff. I don't want to leave him in IL not knowing when I'd be able to get him back.
my town only has enterprise. I also called rent-a-wreck (can't go out of state), and budget- everyone said no.
I just called Hertz and they have NO additional drop fee and I can even drop it off across the border in Canada which saves my parents waiting to cross the bridge and driving all the way to the airport in Detroit.

Answer
It wouldn't be traumatic as long as the dog feels comfortable in it's crate, or carrier if it's a small enough dog to fit under the seat in front of you.

If you are worried, you can get a mild sedative from your vet to calm the dog down.

Hertz allows one-way-rentals, but you have to pay a small drop-off fee.

Senin, 12 Mei 2014

UPS driver Pepper sprayed my dog INSIDE THE HOUSE - what should I do?

chance

Hi

I am reaching out to see what I can do. Our UPS driver came in our home while we were gone without permission. He left packages inside on our steps to the kitchen about. 6pm according to tracking. We got home later than we expected to. @9:15pm. And when we came in thought was weird the packages were inside ...but once we got to kitchen found our yellow lab. Having severe difficulty breathing and his eyes were watering,squinting, and bloodshot!! We took him outside to get fresh air and try to calm him down and start to catch his breath...then wiped his face for almost an hour will cold cloths trying to get whatever was on him off. He was crying and moaning once he could breath. We think he was pepper sprayed IN our house

I called the on call vet which told us to do what we were doing and watch him thru the night and the next few days. Tis happened on fri night......he was super clingy and couldn't keep eyes open...lethargic... But seemed to b breathing ok. Monday morning I noticed he was bumping into things...when I looked at his eyes they were completely white like an old dog......rushed him to the vet....he ran a bunch of tests..said he was blind. Sent me to a specialist 3hrs away......his eyesight is getting better with numerous medications and eye drops...not allowed in sun or cold.....will have to keep up treatment for a few more weeks before we can tell the permanent damage. He is only 5 and He is also a service dog. And now there is a serious question if he will b able to continue this once he is better. ESP around men. The sheriff is involved and ups supervisor initially offered to pay get bills but now can't get N answer from anyone.

We would like to know our rights....it infuriates us that he was in his home. And this happened to him....plus the fact that the driver did not let someone know what he had done so the dog could receive medical attention.....the dog was by himself for a few hours not knowing what had happend and thank goodness didn't stop breathing or fall down the stairs.

Of course the driver is denying that he did anything....and has lied about what happened. Said he rang our doorbell...we dont have one....that he never heard or saw a dog....we have 2 labs. One was in her crate and the other was the one he had the run in with. Said he left the pckgs at front door...were at the back.....and that he was just putting them out of the weather..but he didn't put my neighbors inside" who lives right next door..

Any insight or suggestions you can give us would greatly be appreciated!
In nebraska according to the UPS supervisor the drivers ARE allowed to carry spray.

Answer
Off-hand, I see several problems with your story.

First, if no one was home, how did anyone gain access to your kitchen to leave a package? Why wasn't the door locked? Generally speaking, any delivery person will try to find the closest, covered spot to leave a package. The faster they can leave the package, the faster they can move to the next stop, and be done with their route.

Second, are you SURE your dog was pepper-sprayed? Is there any chance he may have come into contact with a chemical or other substance in the house? If you have two dogs, and they were both in the house, was there any harm to the other one? As dogs are pack animals, and respond to signs of distress from a member of the pack, it would be expected that the second dog would have come to aid the first dog and would have been sprayed as well.

Third, did any (human) notice signs of pepper spray when they arrived home? I had a container of pepper spray that accidentally leaked on my gloves one time. I threw the pepper spray out, left my gloves in the car, and a friend and I who were going out to dinner were coughing and our eyes were watering. It wasn't as bad, but we still had symptoms when we returned to the car after dinner. If pepper spray was discharged in the house, humans would have likely noticed.

Fourth, even if the dog was pepper-sprayed, how can you be sure that it was the UPS driver who did it? If it was that easy to gain access to your home, it could have just as easily been neighborhood kids who were causing trouble.

Fifth, if the driver was performing his job within the limits of the company's policy, and reasonably feared for his safety from the dog, that may be a sufficient defense.

Your best avenue would likely be to continue your complaint with UPS. Alternatively, you could consult with an attorney, but the most you would likely be able to recover is the cost of the vet bills, and possibly any lost income you would have received from the dog as a service animal. Still, in order to recover anything, you (as the plaintiff) would have the burden of proving that there was negligence on the part of UPS and/or the driver, and that the negligence was the proximate cause of the injury to the dog.

What is the best way to wrap a Puppy for Christmas?

Q. I will be sending my nephew a dog this christmas.

Answer
I assume his parents know, that the whole family is ok with it, and that he is responsible enough to care for this dog for the next 10-15 years (like when he heads to college)?

I would give him a package of all the dog's equipment with instructions - "On January 2nd you have an all-expense paid trip to the local dog rescue to pick out a new friend. Bring this collar so everyone will know he's yours. Bring this leash to keep him safe by your side. Bring these treats to make him happy. Put this crate in your room so he can sleep next to your side." etc. That way the new dog/puppy doesn't have to deal with the stress inherent in Christmas day and your nephew can pick out exactly which dog he wants. The instructions can also be modified to say that the puppy will be delivered on a certain date.

A Christmas day delivery will be stressful for everyone.

Dog costs?

bree_1384

My boyfriend and I are really considering adopting a puppy in a few weeks. I was wondering what the monthly costs would average. I know there are vet fees, food, snacks, toys ect. I just wanted some advice from a dog owner that could tell us alittle but more what to expect finacially. And if there are any breeds that we should or shouldn't look at it. Thanks :)
Thanks for the great answers so far... I keep getting more and more excited!
Some more details... we do live in an apartment but do have a nice grassy yard to play with the puppy. We do not want a pure breed high maintance dog... we want a cute furry family pet... again a medium sized dog is what we will be looking at. Thanks for all your information...
more details... we want a puppy so that we can train "it" the way we want, we both do work but only 8 miles from where we live so checking on the puppy throughout the day is not biggy. I work 8 to 4 and my boyfriend works either 9 to 6 or 12:30 to 9... so the puppy would be alone sometimes but again we would check on it during the day. It will defnitly get plenty of attention.

Answer
Well you have the cost of the dog. From a rescue, expect anywhere from $50 to $500 (generally not this high but some purebred rare breeds may be). From a reputable breeder, $500-$1500 depending on breed and quality of pups, parents, titles earned by parents, and health tests done. They may have a returned dog or retired one for less but I'll stick with new puppy price. Skip the pet shops. Some do have healthy puppies but many of those pups come from puppy mills. You'll get better quality for the same price or less from a reputable breeder anyway.

Food can be as low at $10 a month for low-quality food for a small dog (please use good food) up to $200 a month for quality food for a giant breed dog. Let's assume you have a medium sized breed with high quality food and $75.

Toys initially would probably be $30 at least. Make sure the toys are breed apropriate. A tiny ball is not a dane toy and a giant one is no good to a chihuahua. Avoid toys that can fit to the back of the mouth as these are choking hazzards.

The essentials: leash, collar, bowls, and a license. $35

Shots and well-puppy check can REALLY vary but let's say $100. GET THE WELL PUPPY CHECK! It isn't much if you do it when you get shots and can save you alot of heartache later. If your puppy is not healthy, your breeder's contract should cover that (this is why I recommend contracts that allow you the choice of keeping the pup with a partial refund or returning the pup for a replacement). If it came from a rescue, you will need to ask them what they do about that. All shelters are different. Some say oh well, some require the pup returned, some return the adoption fee...

Obedience classes if you choose to go can also vary but let's go with $150. Look up my other answers and you will find a list of questions to ask a trainer before trusting him/her with your puppy's future.

Spay/neuter if you choose to can also vary. A shelter pup will already be altered. $150

Crate if you crate train (I highly recommend crate training but remember that your puppy's place is with YOU, not living in his/her crate). This will depend on dog size again ($30-$250 for a standard type crate) but I'll assume medium sized dog. $100

Adding up the essentials - $740 (assuming a $500 dog so you can adjust from there)

With the extras - $1140 (subtract any of the last three if you will not be using it)

Monthly maintainence can be figured out using the numbers given. Less than $100 more than likely unless you have a giant breed.

Remember that this is just a rough estimate and it can easily be higher or lower. This does not include any meds you may choose to use monthly (I choose not to but this choice is for owner and is very much determined by the area you live in). Don't forget to keep emergency vet care in mind. BTW I DID NOT add in grooming supplies as those will depend on the breed you select.

Well that makes things easier. Look for an aussie (Austrailian Shepherd) or aussie mix. Mature between 45 and 60 lbs (females smaller than males). Energy level is moderate to high depending on the dog. Medium length double coat, variety of colors (DO NOT GET A LETHAL WHITE/DOUBLE MERLE), and very friendly personality though they WILL defend their family. Not too high maintainence though they will have a major shed once or twice a year. You can find a purebred at a breed rescue or just look on petfinder. The purebreds are no more high maintainence than the mixes but the adoption fee may be higher.

housetraing dogs?

wendinella

Answer
Hi,

Housetraining is a MUST. You want to have a polite dog that knows the rules in your house and does not cause you the trouble of cleaning a mess all the time (it's not fun especially if you have the carpets;)).

Dogs are very clean animals and they do not like to make a mess in their dens in the wild and they are not happy to have a mess around them in the house either. As a dog owner it is your responsibility to teach your pooch about the basic rules in the house. Housebreaking (or housetraining) when done properly will take about a week (depending on an owner's consistency, patience, persistance, routine, etc.).

I've known people who never took the time (which is not that long at all) to housetrain their dogs and it caused a lot of frustration in the owners later on...The best thing is to housetrain your dog as soon as you get him/her.

Here are a few things that might be helpful to know about housetraining:

1. Set a schedule for your dog. Dogs LOVE to have a routine. Feed your puppy the same time every day. Don't give him the water before he goes to sleep at night.

2. Make sure you're feeding your pup the highest quality food. Premium foods may be more expensive, but it is much more digestable than grocery store brands. The puppy eats less and eliminates less often which make the housebreaking process much easier. You will also have a healthier dog.

3. The second puppy wakes up in the morning take him on a leash outside to the area you have chose to be his toilet. Keep your clothes ready and do not fool around getting him outside. If you wait until you have your coffee and breakfast to take him outside, you are forcing him to lose control of himself.

4. Make it clear that this walk is pure business, not fun and pleasure. You can give a command like "Do your business". Keep the voice low and don't excite your dog - it's a serious business. The second your puppy starts to eliminate - PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!:) After he's done eliminating, take him away from the elimination area and have a playtime as a reward.

5. It is easier and more eficient to praise your dog for going in one spot than to punish him for going in thousand different spots.
I always take my dog to the same spot right at the side of my house and when she's done she gets her walk as a reward. It is easier to pick everything up and usually I do not have to pick anything up during a walk.

6. Sensitize yourself to your dog's body language. Your puppy needs to eliminate:

- after a meal
- after a nap
- after a play session
- if he begins circling and sniffing

7. Do not leave your puppy alone in the house where you cannot see him. If you're not actively playing with him, put him in his crate (but not for longer than 4 hours!).

8. A crate should never be used as punishment. It is supposed to be your dog's safe place , his den and by using a crate as a punishment you'll make your dog to have a negative connotation with his crate. Crate is VERY useful in teaching your puppy the housebreaking rules. Dogs do not like to mess their dens and want to keep it clean.

9. Never yell at your dog. If you catch your puppy in the ACT of eliminating (which you will if he's leashed to your belt), say "NO" in a low, stern voice and run him outside. There is no need to yell at the puppy - it would make him voice shy.

10. Give him an opportunity to finish his job. When he does, PRAISE him and reward him (for example with a play session).

11. Return to the house. Don't let your pup see you clean up the mess. Clean the mess with a commercial odor neutralizer. It's important that your puppy cannot smell those spots. The smell of the places where he eliminated before will only encourage him to do it again there. It is the dogs' instinct and he's not trying to be mallicious by eliminating in the house where he can still smell the old eliminating areas.

12. Remember - it is NEVER to late to teach your dog about eliminating in the proper areas and with patience and consistency you can do it pretty quickly!

Alex

Source(s):
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
http://www.cuhumane.org/topics/housebr.h...
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/woof/tips/tip_13...

housetraing dogs?

wendinella

dog who has crate anxiety?

That Girl

My 11 month old Pit Bull/Newfoundland mix has developed what I am assuming to be crate anxiety. He has been crate training sense he was 3 months old and we've never had a problem bigger then a little barking. Lately he seems to have become more active in his crate while we are gone. He pulled his cover blanket into the crate and has bent some of the metal. I came home today and he had scratched a dime size amount of hair off of his face.
I've been filling Kong's and bones with P.B. and freezing them to keep him active.
I can't leave him out of the crate because he is very destructive. What should I do for him?

Answer
I dont know how long you are leaving your dog alone in a crate but I would say that 3 hours is long, 4 hours is pushing it, and 5 hours is probably unbearable. I assume all these problems are during the daytime when you are away from home.

Here are my suggestions:

1. take your dog on a long walk or give him vigorous exercise right before you leave. This will tire him out and make him more mellow in his crate while you are gone. I'm not talking about just let him out in the backyard either! Really engage him so that he can burn off all that energy.

2. make his crate as comfortable as possible too. Make sure that he has cover, bedding, or toys to play with. The more comfortable it is to him, the less likely he is to get bored. I dont know how often your dog has access to his Kong toys but I have a bully stick that my dog absolutely loves to chew on. The thing is, I only give it to him while he is in his crate and I'm going to be away. This way, he doesnt get bored of it and it always seems fresh to him and not over used. May I also suggest cycling different toys or food products so that he doesnt get accumstomed to any one item. Variety is the spice of life after all!!!

3. Again, I dont know how long you're leaving him, but if the timeframe gets to be excessive, have a neighbor check in on him and let him out for a little while.

4. Try leaving a t.v. or a radio on while you are gone. This doesnt leave an absolutely quiet house and will give your dog the feeling he isnt all alone.

I have tried all these techniques at some point or another and have had varying amounts of success with each of them. I have found that getting your dog exercise before crating him is by far the most effect tactic. This may require you to get up a few hours earlier but your dog will be happier for it in the long run. Nevertheless, Try them out and hopefully one will work for you.

Minggu, 11 Mei 2014

A good dog crate for my puppy...?

German she

I'm looking for a good, cheap dog crate for my puppy. It needs to be at least 36" long. Where are some good cheap places to get dog crates?

I've tried amazon, ebay, petsmart, petco, and my local stores. Any other ideas?
Links would be helpful.

Answer
We got ours from Wal-Mart and it's great. Heavy duty plastic with a stainless steel door. It's huge. We put our lab on there when it's stormy (it calms her down) and you could easily fit a great Dane in there. I don't remember it costing more than $50

Is there such thing as an industrial strength dog crate?

Sassy Shib

I posted a question a couple of weeks ago asking what crate would be best for my separation anxiety ridden dog who BENT HER WAY out of her metal crate while I was at work. The question specifically pertained to durable plastic crates (like the airline approved ones) but now wonder whether that would be the best way to contain her. Some people mentioned an "industrial strength crate", but there's no link even close to it when I Google it. She got out of those black metal ones (for a 50 pound dog, she is surprisingly strong when she wants something done). Is there one even more harcore than that?

I'm getting desperate. She is currently tethered to the couch leg while I find a solution for the poor thing, but I do get tired of cleaning up after she soils the carpet in her anxious state.

I need something that will keep her (and my carpets!) safe from harm. It needs to be, essentially, indestructible. Is there such a crate? Does a miracle like that exist?
Oregano - OUCH! That price is painful. Of course, if that's all that will work, that's all that will work...
Isis - How lucky are YOU? Wish people would leave that crap lying around our roads, ha.
hooptidoo2 - She is spayed, and about 1.5 years of age. I got her about 5 months ago from a local no kill shelter, so have no idea of her past. She is a hound mix.

The "gradually building up time apart" is a good thought and I did that with her the first couple of months - but she never had an issue with 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, even an hour...she almost seems to instinctively realize when she's being tethered (or crated, as it used to be) for 30 minutes or 6-8 hours. It's eerie. It's a great idea and I continue to work in that way, but she seems to recognize that I'm coming back shortly. Or maybe she just doesn't have enough time to do the damage she does when left for longer, I don't know.

Answer
Gorilla ToughÂ® Classic Square Back Cage

This cage will stand up to the wear and tear it receives from exertive dogs; yet it is the perfect choice for housebreaking a puppy. Heavy-duty, 6-gauge welded steel wire, closely spaced at 1-1/4 inches apart, gives this cage its extra strength and stability. Front access door with cam lock is easy on your fingers but will check your dog in his efforts to escape.

HEAVY DUTY FOLDING PLASTIC DOG CRATES

these are the toughest I have found.

Best Dog Kennel

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