Senin, 12 Mei 2014

Dog costs?




bree_1384


My boyfriend and I are really considering adopting a puppy in a few weeks. I was wondering what the monthly costs would average. I know there are vet fees, food, snacks, toys ect. I just wanted some advice from a dog owner that could tell us alittle but more what to expect finacially. And if there are any breeds that we should or shouldn't look at it. Thanks :)
Thanks for the great answers so far... I keep getting more and more excited!
Some more details... we do live in an apartment but do have a nice grassy yard to play with the puppy. We do not want a pure breed high maintance dog... we want a cute furry family pet... again a medium sized dog is what we will be looking at. Thanks for all your information...
more details... we want a puppy so that we can train "it" the way we want, we both do work but only 8 miles from where we live so checking on the puppy throughout the day is not biggy. I work 8 to 4 and my boyfriend works either 9 to 6 or 12:30 to 9... so the puppy would be alone sometimes but again we would check on it during the day. It will defnitly get plenty of attention.



Answer
Well you have the cost of the dog. From a rescue, expect anywhere from $50 to $500 (generally not this high but some purebred rare breeds may be). From a reputable breeder, $500-$1500 depending on breed and quality of pups, parents, titles earned by parents, and health tests done. They may have a returned dog or retired one for less but I'll stick with new puppy price. Skip the pet shops. Some do have healthy puppies but many of those pups come from puppy mills. You'll get better quality for the same price or less from a reputable breeder anyway.

Food can be as low at $10 a month for low-quality food for a small dog (please use good food) up to $200 a month for quality food for a giant breed dog. Let's assume you have a medium sized breed with high quality food and $75.

Toys initially would probably be $30 at least. Make sure the toys are breed apropriate. A tiny ball is not a dane toy and a giant one is no good to a chihuahua. Avoid toys that can fit to the back of the mouth as these are choking hazzards.

The essentials: leash, collar, bowls, and a license. $35

Shots and well-puppy check can REALLY vary but let's say $100. GET THE WELL PUPPY CHECK! It isn't much if you do it when you get shots and can save you alot of heartache later. If your puppy is not healthy, your breeder's contract should cover that (this is why I recommend contracts that allow you the choice of keeping the pup with a partial refund or returning the pup for a replacement). If it came from a rescue, you will need to ask them what they do about that. All shelters are different. Some say oh well, some require the pup returned, some return the adoption fee...

Obedience classes if you choose to go can also vary but let's go with $150. Look up my other answers and you will find a list of questions to ask a trainer before trusting him/her with your puppy's future.

Spay/neuter if you choose to can also vary. A shelter pup will already be altered. $150

Crate if you crate train (I highly recommend crate training but remember that your puppy's place is with YOU, not living in his/her crate). This will depend on dog size again ($30-$250 for a standard type crate) but I'll assume medium sized dog. $100

Adding up the essentials - $740 (assuming a $500 dog so you can adjust from there)

With the extras - $1140 (subtract any of the last three if you will not be using it)

Monthly maintainence can be figured out using the numbers given. Less than $100 more than likely unless you have a giant breed.

Remember that this is just a rough estimate and it can easily be higher or lower. This does not include any meds you may choose to use monthly (I choose not to but this choice is for owner and is very much determined by the area you live in). Don't forget to keep emergency vet care in mind. BTW I DID NOT add in grooming supplies as those will depend on the breed you select.

Well that makes things easier. Look for an aussie (Austrailian Shepherd) or aussie mix. Mature between 45 and 60 lbs (females smaller than males). Energy level is moderate to high depending on the dog. Medium length double coat, variety of colors (DO NOT GET A LETHAL WHITE/DOUBLE MERLE), and very friendly personality though they WILL defend their family. Not too high maintainence though they will have a major shed once or twice a year. You can find a purebred at a breed rescue or just look on petfinder. The purebreds are no more high maintainence than the mixes but the adoption fee may be higher.

housetraing dogs?




wendinella





Answer
Hi,

Housetraining is a MUST. You want to have a polite dog that knows the rules in your house and does not cause you the trouble of cleaning a mess all the time (it's not fun especially if you have the carpets;)).

Dogs are very clean animals and they do not like to make a mess in their dens in the wild and they are not happy to have a mess around them in the house either. As a dog owner it is your responsibility to teach your pooch about the basic rules in the house. Housebreaking (or housetraining) when done properly will take about a week (depending on an owner's consistency, patience, persistance, routine, etc.).

I've known people who never took the time (which is not that long at all) to housetrain their dogs and it caused a lot of frustration in the owners later on...The best thing is to housetrain your dog as soon as you get him/her.

Here are a few things that might be helpful to know about housetraining:

1. Set a schedule for your dog. Dogs LOVE to have a routine. Feed your puppy the same time every day. Don't give him the water before he goes to sleep at night.

2. Make sure you're feeding your pup the highest quality food. Premium foods may be more expensive, but it is much more digestable than grocery store brands. The puppy eats less and eliminates less often which make the housebreaking process much easier. You will also have a healthier dog.

3. The second puppy wakes up in the morning take him on a leash outside to the area you have chose to be his toilet. Keep your clothes ready and do not fool around getting him outside. If you wait until you have your coffee and breakfast to take him outside, you are forcing him to lose control of himself.

4. Make it clear that this walk is pure business, not fun and pleasure. You can give a command like "Do your business". Keep the voice low and don't excite your dog - it's a serious business. The second your puppy starts to eliminate - PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!:) After he's done eliminating, take him away from the elimination area and have a playtime as a reward.

5. It is easier and more eficient to praise your dog for going in one spot than to punish him for going in thousand different spots.
I always take my dog to the same spot right at the side of my house and when she's done she gets her walk as a reward. It is easier to pick everything up and usually I do not have to pick anything up during a walk.

6. Sensitize yourself to your dog's body language. Your puppy needs to eliminate:

- after a meal
- after a nap
- after a play session
- if he begins circling and sniffing

7. Do not leave your puppy alone in the house where you cannot see him. If you're not actively playing with him, put him in his crate (but not for longer than 4 hours!).

8. A crate should never be used as punishment. It is supposed to be your dog's safe place , his den and by using a crate as a punishment you'll make your dog to have a negative connotation with his crate. Crate is VERY useful in teaching your puppy the housebreaking rules. Dogs do not like to mess their dens and want to keep it clean.

9. Never yell at your dog. If you catch your puppy in the ACT of eliminating (which you will if he's leashed to your belt), say "NO" in a low, stern voice and run him outside. There is no need to yell at the puppy - it would make him voice shy.

10. Give him an opportunity to finish his job. When he does, PRAISE him and reward him (for example with a play session).

11. Return to the house. Don't let your pup see you clean up the mess. Clean the mess with a commercial odor neutralizer. It's important that your puppy cannot smell those spots. The smell of the places where he eliminated before will only encourage him to do it again there. It is the dogs' instinct and he's not trying to be mallicious by eliminating in the house where he can still smell the old eliminating areas.

12. Remember - it is NEVER to late to teach your dog about eliminating in the proper areas and with patience and consistency you can do it pretty quickly!

Alex

Source(s):
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
http://www.cuhumane.org/topics/housebr.h...
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/woof/tips/tip_13...




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