Selasa, 24 Juni 2014

Wal - Mart dog crates?




mkt


Two people recommended these on a different question.

Did you find them at the store or online only? We're getting the puppy in 2 wks & I'm not sure an online purchase would be delivered in time. Also, I recently was in the dog aisle at our Walmart & I don't remember seeing crates...



Answer
Another thing you can do is look on craigslist. That is where we got my puppy's wire crate and we love it. The person selling it didn't their their schnoodle or whatever mix it was would outgrow it but he did so we got the crate for $20 when it is normally around $50+ We cleaned it with bleach and everything and you would never know it was used when we bought it.

Large Dog Crate?







Ok, I want a large dog crate for my 50 pound Pointer, it can be wire or plastic. I am on a budget and I can't spend a lot of money, no more than $30. I am located in Dallas, TX, but I can mail money if you can mail the cage to me. My e-mail is baby_7991@yahoo.com please e-mail me if you have an offer.


Answer
Go to www.craigslist.com they have everything under the sun.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What exactly is a dog crate?




Mummy of o


i've been reading about dog crates, and are these the metal "cages" or are they the plastic ones with the metal door??

Also how often do you use it for your dogs? some people say no more than 3 hours, but what about night time, is it ok to put the dog in a "crate" for the whole night while asleep?

As much info would be great!

Thanks in advance
Also is there a big difference between plastic or metal ones? which ones are more comfortable and safe feeling for your dogs?



Answer
All the dog catalogues carry them
www.petedge.com
www.kvpet.com
and they run from fabric, wire, and plastic.
Fabric can be ripped open by a dog that is determined
Plastic can be chewed through
Wire is the safest, collapses easily so it can be carried in the car.
Crates are used for transporting dogs, housebreaking, and just a place that a dog can call his own when he wants some peace and quiet. All my dogs have loved their crates, and although there are some issues about the length of time a dog or puppy can be crated , when I'm housebreaking a dog, they are in it at least 8 hours at night with no problem. During the day, especially when showing, the dogs can spend up to 5 hours in a crate which keeps them safe and out of the way of all the ruckus at dog shows.
At home I always have 2 or 3 with open doors for the dogs to nap in, and they do nap in them, preferring them to their big soft dog beds.
I also crate them when running the vacuum as all my dogs seem to feel the vacuum is a monster and needs to be killed.

Help! Proper way to crate train a dog?!?




Makela


I haven never crate trained any dog. I have a 8 month old border collie and when I put him in the crate, I give him lots of treats, kong, toys..whatever. Usually he just ignores them and starts whining and barking. Someone please help, I have no clue what I'm doing!


Answer
For the others- All dogs should be crate trained, for times like when youâre travelling in the car, visiting the vet or any other time you may need to confine your dog (eg. after surgery or if it has been injured), itâs much easier and safer if your dog has been trained to enjoy being in a crate.

A crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lie down. A crate is intended to be a âsafe havenâ or âsecurity blanketâ for the dog. By nature, dogs like small, enclosed spaces, especially when they are feeling a little bit unsure.

The duration of crate training varies from dog to dog. It will depend on the dogâs age, temperament and past experiences. It is very important to remember that your crate should be associated only with something pleasant and training should always move at your dogâs pace. Always vary the length of time that your dog will spend in its crate, especially during training. This will prevent your dog from âexpectingâ to be let out at a particular time and reduce any issues such as whining or scratching at the crate door.

Place the crate in a central part of the household (living room, TV room, etc). Make the crate inviting and comfortable for your dog. Usually, dogs will go over and investigate. When your dog goes near the crate, reward it by throwing a food treat into the crate or near its entrance. Repeat this every time the dog goes near the crate. If the dog settles down inside the crate, reward this behaviour either with your voice or with food rewards. You want the dog to view the crate as a wonderful place to be, full of goodies and fun. You donât want to shut the door of the crate just yet. Your dog needs to understand that it can come and go as it pleases, therefore reinforcing it as a good place to be.

Begin giving your dog its regular meals in the crate. Place the bowl inside the crate and encourage the dog to enter. If your dog readily enters the crate at dinner time, start asking it to go in and then place the food inside the crate.

As the dog becomes more comfortable eating in the crate, you can introduce closing the door. Start by closing the door as your dog eats its meal. Make sure you open it before the dog finishes its meal. As you progress, gradually leave the door closed for a few minutes at a time. Soon you should have a dog that will happily stay in its crate after a meal. If the dog whines; ignore the behaviour and try to reward it or let it out as soon as it is quiet. Next time, make sure the dog is in the crate for a slightly longer period of time.

Once your dog is happy in the crate for about 10 â 15 minutes after finishing its meal, you can start to confine it to the crate for longer periods. Get the dog into the crate using a command such as âcrateâ or âbedâ. As the dog enters the crate, give it a treat, praise it and close the door. Quietly sit nearby for a few minutes and reward the dog for remaining calm and happy.

Be careful that your puppy doesnât spend too much time in its crate. While it is a fantastic tool for toilet training puppies and preventing destruction, a dog of any age should not spend all day in a crate while you are at work and again when you go to bed. This can affect your dogâs muscle development and condition.

If your dog begins whining in its crate, the best thing to do is ignore it. Remember that any sort of interaction, positive or negative, will be a ârewardâ to the dog, so ignoring the whining is best. However, make sure that you reward the dog appropriately when it has settled and is quiet. Using a towel or sheet to cover the crate if the whining persists can also help settle the dog.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

my boyfriend wants to get a dog?




ProudMommy


but i am very scared of dogs..always have been ever since i was a little girl when i got bit by my grandmothers poodle. What kind of dog do you suggest......if I change my mind....how do you go about buying a dog....and what are the average costs for dogs?? I know nothing about dogs so I just want to get an idea of what to expect.


Answer
Dog costs very GREATLY and IMMENSELY by breeds!

Honestly.. I suggest a gentler breed, like a Newfoundland. Remember, ALL breeds are capable of biting. And WILL if a threat is in hand, poor training and/or socialization or low tolerance, medical problems or in pain. Larger Breeds as puppies are very "bouncy" at younger ages and can knock over younger children. Smaller breeds don't really have a tolerance for younger children, and younger kids can hurt them if they step on them, etc..

If you know nothing about dogs, I honestly have to say either re-search for a while before getting a dog and/or don't get a dog.

#

Google: "How to find a reputable breeder" "Information on Puppies" "How to care for a dog" "Truth about Puppy Mills" "Sad truth about teacup dogs"

ETC.. Also, shelter dogs are cheap, $100-300.

ETA: Sorry, just had to add a "Pulls on hair screaming O_o" at the Labrador. Labradors DON'T ALWAYS have a happy-go-lucky nature. My neighbor's Lab Tanner attacked my Yorkie when I had her. Tanner was really trained, I don't know what caused the attack but....

Anyways, just expect the un-expected with dogs. Here's a list of dog breeds: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_dog_breeds

Dog Tricks, how to teach:

http://www.courteouscanine.com/trick-training-list/
http://dogs.thefuntimesguide.com/2006/06/101_best_dog_tricks.php
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5340369_list-dog-tricks.html
http://www.loveyourdog.com/tricks.html

Crate Training method (VERY successful):

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2114&aid=157
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html
http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

Here is a good link for answers of what not to feed dogs:
http://www.doggiebistro.com/Common_Foods_Unsafe_For_Dogs.html

As for making homemade dog food, here is an excellent link for Recipies for homemade dog food: http://www.globalpaw.com/dogtreats/dogmeals/alfalfahearts.php

Here is another excellent site on making your own dog food and also has info on the added vitamin suppliments: http://www.boxerlife.com/recipe.htm


Good, high-quality food list: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/dog-food-ratings-top-10-best-dog-foods.html

I have to many dogs, now what?




Tavi


Alright, so I was recently hospitalized in the psych ward, and after talking with psychiatrists and therapists, I have to admit, I believe I'm a hoarder. I have 21 dogs, 19 of them stay inside, of those 19 dogs, 7 are kept in crates constantly. I try to keep up with keeping all the dogs crates cleaned, but at times I fall behind. Some of the dogs run loose in the house, but still never are brought out side, so they potty in the house. I try to keep the place clean, constantly vacuuming and cleaning the carpet, but it's just to much. The dogs are well fed, I go through 45 lbs of dog food every 3 days. I live with my grandmother who has dementia, my mother who is bipolar, and my sister who has pschizoaffective disorder. It is just very chaotic. For the longest time I wanted to believe that this was the best thing for these dogs, but now that I have been thinking more clearly lately, I see it is not.

So my question is, what do I do? I have contacted local rescues, but have only had one response from one willing to take one dog. I do not want these dogs to end up being euthanized in the pound.

In addition, my mom is unwilling to let go of many dogs, I have finally talked her down to keeping 9 of the dogs, which is still alot. I'm not sure how to handle this all.

I know I'm responsible for all of this, and I just can't believe what has happened, but now I need help and I can't find it. If it helps, I live in NC. Thank you for any advice.
If I thought I could rehome them myself I would. The problem is, how can I bring anyone into my house to show them a dog? How can I make sure that the person is going to properly take care of the dog and it isn't just going into another situation like where it is coming from?

I am contacting any rescue I can find hoping maybe they can just list the dog on there page or something, I wouldn't mind bringing the dogs to adoption fairs.

Tomorrow I am driving one of the dogs nearly 2 hours away to a rescue. I love these dogs and I am willing to do what I need to in order to get them better homes. I just want to make sure that those homes are really better.
Some of the dogs I'm looking to rehome are a Pembroke Welsh Corgi, 6 years, female.
Australian Shepherd mix, 5 years, who is pregnant
2 Labrador mix's, both 8 month old males,
a 5 year old chihuahua mix
a 3 year old german shepherd mix
a 3 year old Beagle mix
a 3 year old Beagle Pitbull mix
a 2 year old Pitbull

and I'll admit, I'm not sure if going public such as on tv would be a good idea with my sister. Due to her condition she is very paranoid, hears voices and hallucinates. One time animal control knocked on the door and she freaked out afraid that they were going to take away her dog, so she swallowed a bunch of pills trying to kill herself. I will try contacting groups further out of state.



Answer
In addition to LaLa's excellent ideas, have you tried contacting any news media and asking them to give you a spot on one of their shows? I've been interviewed by local news media before, and I can tell you some are sympathetic to certain causes and some are not and they are VERY good at getting the interviewee to say what they want people to hear. You might want to do some research on which ones would be the best contact to help, not hurt your efforts.

Best Friends in Utah may help you out, but I can't guarantee it, all I can do is suggest you call them and make a full confession and any others nearby (if they're willing to listen). I would try to get my story out to as many venues as possible. You will probably have to spend a lot of time on the phone. I hope you have an LL with no limit calling. The more people who know about this, the better chance you have of getting the dogs into good, forever homes. You might try Petfinder. Borrow a good digital camera if you don't have one and take some really good photos of them to post online.

And, you're right about city or county animal "shelters". By law, picked up strays get 5 days. Surrendered ones get 3 days, longer only if they have room- and most facilities are still overflowing due the continued recession. APBTs (or dogs that resemble them to the shelter staff) are usually put down as soon as you let loose of the leash.

Feel free to email, I deeply sympathize with you and I have good reasons which I'm not going to publicize on here. Your frankness and honesty are amazing, and it is easy to see how you ended up in this situation. I'm familiar with the problems you say you're having in your house.

Edit: It's obvious you love the dogs and goes without saying you want the best for them. And I can see where you might not want people invading your premises. However, you can still make arrangements to allow people to see and interact with the dogs (and you watch how they do it) by making appointments to meet somewhere, like a park or at a PetSmart, one dog at a time.

Placing all of them isn't something you're going to be able to do overnight- not if you want them to go to good homes and not be killed at an animal control facility. Making appointments for meet & greet will also enable you to spend a little time making each dog look its best (flea baths, a little grooming).

You can also use an adoption agreement and include a trial period, the right to check up on them to see how they're doing, etc. There are also websites that have generic adoption templates you can customize for your use, or you may be able to get a blank one from the rescue you're going to and use it for a model to write your own.

Also, you don't have to let the media into your house, or even in your yard. Be explicit about this, and tell them due to the other problems you have with your family, you'll only be able to talk to them at another location, like a park. And I would take some of the dogs with me when I went. They probably wouldn't want to interview if you didn't. This is called a "human interest" story, and they know people will watch it because they like things like this. It boosts their ratings.

One last thing you might do, but only if you have access to a digital camera, is to do a video appeal and post it to youtube. Plan it out carefully and script what you say before you start to record. Be sure to get some of your dogs into the segment, but don't just do them, shoot yourself explaining your situation, just like you did on here and making the appeal before you introduce and show the dogs. On the search terms, put anything you can think of that would get rescues, fosters and potential adopters to find your link. And you might want to disable comments, if you don't have a thick hide.

Thank you, on behalf of your dogs for caring so much. Best wishes & God bless.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

how long should i lock the dog crate?




Mehrdad


hi every one,i just got the 9 weeks old German shepherd i was wondering till what age i have to lock his crate?and also how long he can hold it at night?


Answer
· "How long should i lock the dog crate?"

How long is fragile Great Aunt Victoria visiting?
How long before the parents of that uncontrolled brat go home? (Make sure they are never invited back!)
How long will he be crated while you are driving?

See, a crate is for protecting your pup, not imprisoning it.
A locked-in pup can NOT exercise its fast-growing bones & muscles every minute that it is awake. A locked-in pup can not follow its instinct to get away from its nest before piddle-pooing, so is forced to learn to mess its nest and lie in it.
My last pup came inside at 8½ weeks and had the run of the house 24/7 (except for shut guest room & lounge). That afternoon she was fully trained to use an area I had covered with layers of newspaper . She was also almost trained that day that my always-open bedroom is forbidden to dogs - on 5 mornings I had to look in the passage for the aromatic sock she had been unable to resist stealing while I was boringly asleep.

Toilet training requires YOU to be with-&-concentrating-on Pup 100% so that you LEARN his signals & timings for "Wanna go toilet" and "Wanna BITE something!", so that you can predict that, e .g., 1 minute after waking and 3 minutes after eating or drinking he will, eg, start making anxious nose-down circles - and THAT's when you pick him up and take him to the designated toilet area. You then stand boringly still & silent until he remembers what he wanted to do, so does it. THEN you enthusiastically praise (e .g ., "Good boy Rexie TOILET!") & reward him (pats & rubs are always available; tidbits & games require a tiny amount of preparation) before calling him to come back inside with you. Crates are unintelligent and insensate. They can neither reward nor deter behaviours, so they can NOT "toilet train" a pup. YOU have to.

· "also how long he can hold it at night?"

Dogs don't "hold it" - wrong kind of appendages for holding onto objects.
But if you intend to take him out to the toilet every time he wants to go, you won't be getting much sleep during the next few months! You'd be better having a roofed security pen - at least 12ft long between gate & raised sleeping box - for when you can't supervise him. Or shutting him inside a safe room (no wires or hoses or chemicals) that you've covered the floor of.
Yes, he WILL complain for at least an hour the first night you put him in there with a gnaw bone. No-one must speak to him, no-one must go to him - complaining must NOT produce rewards; not a familiar voice, not a pat, not a trip out of his "bedroom" ..

⢠Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as rescue groups, feeding, vaccinations, worming, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.

⢠To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with them. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos in your messages.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967

Dog crate... small car?




Julie


I may be getting a dog and I am looking into getting a crate for the dog. I don't know how to get the dog crate from the pet store to my house. I have a pretty small car - a toyota corolla. Any ideas/suggestions? It will be a medium dog crate so probably around 36" x 24" x 27".
what about those plastic ones?



Answer
If you are getting a metal crate they collapse down to the size of the base and are only about 3-4" high. should easily fit in your backseat standing up. If you opt for the plastic airline crates they stack, the tops come off and fit into the bottom. A bit more room needed but should still fit.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

DIY dog crate covers?




Leticia Go


has anyone made their own dog crate covers? id love to make my own so it would go perfect with the room, be a little cheaper, and be customized. what would be the easiest way to go about this project for someone that cannot sew to save their life and doesn't even own a sewing machine. Also what would be the cheapest places to find the supplies i need?


Answer
If you can't sew, you could try using iron-on hemming tape(Stitch Witchery is one brand), though I think it would be a bit difficult to make a dog crate cover with it and have it look neat and tidy. Besides, if you cover the dog crate then the dog inside it isn't going to get much airflow in the crate. Crates have holes to make sure the dog gets enough air and doesn't get too warm in the crate. And if the dog is liable to try to chew the cover through the holes, that's another problem. I wouldn't do this at all, for the sake of the dog. Any place that sells fabric will have what you need if you still think this is a good idea.

About crating my dog..?




I Am Jack'


so I dont quite get it.. do I put him inside the crate all night long with or without water? and I dont leave the door open right?

might be silly questions but I wanna make sure I got it right..

okay now that he's locked inside the crate.. where does he go potty? He has diharea and I dont want him messing it up..

I know it should be house trained and put in a crate but I need to know abotu details..

sorry first time dog owner..

Thanks!



Answer
The crate you use needs to be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably.

Bedding for the crate should cover the crate floor. For the first few weeks with your new pup, you may want to just use a couple of old towels, or make sure you use a crate pad that is machine washable so potty accidents are easy to clean up.

I would recommend not putting water in the crate overnight. You don't want to encourage accidents, and it won't hurt the pup to go through his night's sleep without water. Just make sure he gets some first thing in the morning.

Reward him for going into the kennel when told, and don't punish him by using the kennel as a form of isolation.

The idea of crate-training is that your puppy won't go potty in there. It's his safe haven, his home, his den. Make sure you take him for a good walk before you put him in for the night, and another one first thing in the morning. If he's having diarrhea, it's actually easier to clean the kennel than your whole house. Lay down some newspaper or towels that are easy to wash.

The only other thing you need to know is that while you're crate-training, you absolutely must ignore your puppy's cries during the night. I know it will be very hard to do, and you'll probably lose some sleep for the first week, but I promise you it will be faster and easier for both of you if you don't come running every time he squeaks. Remember that your house is a completely new environment for your pup, so him not sleeping through the night is completely understandable. He'll adjust within a week or two.

Good Luck!




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Senin, 23 Juni 2014

How to introduce my cats to my dog ?




OH MY COD


So the dog I have is pretty old .maybe 7+ years .. he is a rescue my dad got when we were younger and he recently moved into an apartment so I agreed to take the dog until he got a house again. The dog is nice . I suspect he may have been abused as he has always been cowardly . He is a lab shepard mix. He is actually very very afraid of other animals . When I was younger we got a kitten and he feared it . He is still the same . I am wondering how can I introduce him so the cats won't hate me . And if they'll just come around when they realiaze he is more afraid of them .


Answer
Start in the biggest open area in your house. Have the dog on a leash, and a spray bottle or squirt gun as a last resort to discourage the cats. First bring the dog in alone. Let him walk around a bit and smell the cats. Pet him with a washcloth or something to get his scent on it, then take him out and bring the cats in. Let them walk around and sniff where the dog's been, and offer treats. Try putting the washcloth on the floor with treats on it for them to eat.

Next, shoo the cats out and bring the dog back. Let him sniff around again, and wait for him to calm down. Once he seems relaxed, let the cats back in. Stay calm yourself, and just watch them. There will probably be hissing, growling, and hair standing up all around. Let them approach each other if they want to, but don't force them. You don't need to intervene unless one of the animals gets cornered, or it looks like it's turning into a REAL fight. (You've probably seen your cats squabble enough to be able to tell when they're fighting for dominance, but not really trying to hurt each other. It sounds like you already know the dog pretty well, too, so just watch his teeth.) You may have to do an intro like this several times. Keep in mind it could take months for your cats to accept that the dog isn't going away, right now you're just getting them to the point they won't hurt each other.

A few tips for these introductions:
- It would probably help if your Dad is there, especially the first time.
- Don't close the doors. If an animal wants to bolt, let it (even if this means following the dog with the leash).
- Don't give the dog a bone, or any other tasty chew-thing. A toy might be okay, if you want to distract him, but he might feel like he has to defend something food-like from the cats.
- If one or both of your cats responds well to catnip, get kitty good and stoned first.

There's always the chance the cats will completely ignore the dog. Really, that's the best case scenario for a first-time. In my experience, the skittish one will spend a lot of the next several days hiding. Tough ones either attack the dog immediately, glare/growl/hiss until it's satisfied the dog is submissive, or swat at it. I'm not saying all cats fit into one of these categories, but those are the adult cats I've done this with.

For the longer-term, make sure there's a dog-proof area of the house for the cats. This is a good place to keep the litter box, both for their comfort and so the dog doesn't eat anything from it. If you leave food out for the cats, keep it there, too. Likewise, if the dog doesn't have a kennel, make a bed for him somewhere den-like. (The cats will probably avoid it on their own, but if you have a male with a dominant personality, keep an eye on him to make sure he doesn't pee on it.)

If you feed the cats meals, instead of leaving dry food out for them to graze on, feed the dog at the same time. Ideally, do it at opposite ends of the same room, at least to start. If the dog finishes before the cats, and he probably will, take him out of the room or distract him so the cats don't feel like they need to protect their food. The cats probably wouldn't appreciate being removed, but watch them to make sure they don't steal the dog's food from him.

Have more than one water bowl. At least one should be somewhere only the cats can get to, and at least one in a dog-friendly area away from the food.

Just keep in mind that a little roughhousing and dominance-posturing is normal. By the sound of things, the cats are going to be on top, so just watch them over time to make sure they aren't bullying the dog. If the cats are already friends with each other, they will probably eventually end up ignoring the dog as much as possible, and a timid dog would like that just fine. Still, there may be moments they get along, and those are supremely cute. (A cold night and a wood stove make for strange bedfellows... /nostalgia.)

I want to thank you, and everyone else who takes in adult animals when their owners move to smaller housing or assisted living. I've known people who had to put down loving, healthy pets that had become part of the family, simply because they couldn't afford to stay in their old home, and it's heartbreaking. Good luck!

Therapy Dog information?







does anyone know of any sites other than the TDI and Akron Children's Doggie Brigade that i could do for my silver award? i am a cadette girl scout and we got a dog a few weeks ago. i've been wanting to do therapy dogs as my silver project since i was done w/ my bronze. i am only 13 so organizations that i could join would be appreciated. thanks!!!!!!!!!
i've already looked at the TDI. i'm just wondering if there are any others. thanks anyway!



Answer
The three big organizations are:

The Delta Society (http://www.deltasociety.org)
Therapy Dogs International (http://www.tdi-dog.org)
Therapy Dogs Incorporated (http://www.therapydogs.com)

Off the top of my head I don't recall the age limitations, but I do know that some organizations will permit two person teams when a minor wants to participate. It means you'll have to convince a parent or other mentor to prepare and test with you, and accompany you on any visits.

Sometimes local human societies have their own therapy dog programs, and the same may be true of other dog organizations such as local kennel clubs or rescues. Your veterinarian or pet store owner may be resources in tracking down local therapy dog organizations.

Check with the facilities you'd like to visit and ask what they require. Regardless of whether you get your dog certified with an organization you'll still need their permission to enter their facilities. Some facilities have requirements in addition to what the therapy dog organizations require, some want you certified with a specific organization, and some have their own program entirely. So make sure you know exactly what they require before committing too much unnecessary time.

Good luck with your silver award. I think it's a great project idea.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What is a good Kennal in San Jose?




MeganKevin


I sending a E-mail to my Dad and need some good Kennals that are cheep, but good and will take dogs and if posible groom them.


Answer
Boarding kennels (and vets) are not the best places to leave your dog. Like sending your kid to school, it exposes them to many other dogs and the risk of diseases like kennel cough. Most of the time, the dogs are not walked often enough and this may ruin your housebreaking and crate training.

Anywhere you go, make sure that you are allowed to inspect the facility. If they won't allow this, they may have something to hide.

It's better to find someone who will care for your dog in their own home; someone who only takes a few dogs at a time. Ask your friends for recommendations - who watches their dogs? If you don't have any friends with dogs, ask people at a dog park, pet store or obedience class.

If you have someone watch the dog at your house, be sure it's a trusted friend or relative - or you may find all of your stuff ripped off when you come back. Or at least make sure they are bonded and insured and highly recommended. Be sure you have a written contract, stating the price that you are expected to pay and who is responsible for vet bills if your dog is injured or becomes ill. Make sure you get a copy of the contract as a receipt or you may have a hard time proving you left the dog with them if it disappears.

Is there any places to buy a dog in san jose, CA?




Stacy R


Well i want a Male Daushaund Really bad !

Is there any good places in san jose?
PLEASE DONT GIVE ME SITES LIKE PETFINDER.COM !
i looked there already but all they have is mixed breeds, or the wrong sex.

if you live in San Jose, CA, Please tell me where you got your dog !
I'v been searching all over the internet, and all i find is the wrong thing.

Is there any more sites i could try, T.v Shows i could watch, Sections in the newspaper, Or on bullitn boards?

Thanks for all the help[:



Answer
You might consider contact either a shelter or perhaps a few vets in your area. If there are dogs that are going to have puppies, the vets might know or be able to put you in touch with someone who is a reputable breeder of the type of dog for which your are seeking.

~




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Does anyone know a reasonably priced dog boarding/sitting place in Jacksonville Florida? (Southside area)?




Urfavgrl





Answer
Here is a site that could help you find a dog boarding place:

http://www.puppysites.com/boarding_fl.shtml

BARKING LOT IN JACKSONVILLE, FL?




hope


Has anyone ever heard of the Barking Lot off Mcduff Ave in Jacksonville, FL? I am thinking of boarding my dog there and want to know if it is a good place. Any input would be greatly appreciated


Answer
Small world. I live and work in Jacksonville Florida.

I checked the business for you for any past complaints and there has been no complaints. Seems clear. Check out the facility for yourself before deciding but it checked out for me. I don't work the Mcduff area so I can't say if the Facility looks nice or not but there has been no complaints that has been filed through.


Update: A friend of mine went to Barking Lot but it was at a different address and he highly recommends this one.

Barking Lot
12187 Beach Blvd Ste 5
Jacksonville, FL 32246
(904) 564-3885




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Minggu, 22 Juni 2014

Traveling tips for solo drive with dog?




Cody


So... I'm 25 years old, preparing to take a lengthy road trip across the country in a car with my dog next spring. I'm currently saving money while living in Indianapolis and am eagerly awaiting this much needed experience.. but I want to prepare and get good advice from some people who know more about it.
My plan is to leave here and spend approx. a month or two on the road, mostly camping to prolong funds and spend some real time out in the open country. I am going to attempt and make a mapout of sorts, but I would also like to be able to "go with the flow" whenever I may feel the urge.
I fully intend on making sure my car is in good shape, and to gather everthing I may need, while still trying to maintain a reasonably minimal supply.
My end result would be to land in Austin and attempt to get my feet on solid ground with remaining funds long enough possibly stick around for a year or so.

so even though I'm sure the question is somewhat vague, and some of you are going to tell me all about how bad it could/will go for whatever reason.. keep in mind that the risk and/or possibilities are a big part of why I want to do it in the first place...so I am just asking for any advice, or good sources for more information, or useful tips, or even places I must visit... anything at all really, I have time to prepare and plan and no date is set in stone, so all is open right now. Thanks ahead of time



Answer
Austin Texas is gawd-awful hot in the summer so plan things for arrival in the Spring, say April-May. Your dog will feel comfortable traveling in a wire crate secured to the car. It is necessary to have some kind of carpet on the floor of this crate so that the dog can "hold on." Slinging around is not secure for them. You can also do some dog seat-belt arrangement.

There are so many things you cannot do with a dog. So forget going into a restaurant. Best bet is the drive up window and that gets really old. Don't even know how you'd manage to go to a grocery store.

Shipping a dog to Windsor Ontario?




bear 2 zea


I need to ship a dog from Indianapolis to Windsor Ontario. Does anyone know of an airport that is close to Windsor? United goes to Toronto, but it is about 200 miles from Windsor. Detroit is too far for her to travel as well. Air Canada is not taking any transfers from United right now. This boy has to go in an extra large crate. He weighs about 90 pounds.
The Windsor Airport is small, if I can find an airline to take this dog there I will, but in the mean time I need to find a bigger airport close to there.
This boy should be fine to ship. He is 2. I have shipped pups many times. Does anyone know of an airport close to Windsor?



Answer
If you're going through all the trouble of 'shipping' him, perhaps you can persuade someone to drive him there?

Flying in a cargo hold of a plane is a very stressful situation - especially for your rover friend.

Try making the journey by land... as much as possible. I am sure your dog would prefer it that way too!




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Dog costs?




bree_1384


My boyfriend and I are really considering adopting a puppy in a few weeks. I was wondering what the monthly costs would average. I know there are vet fees, food, snacks, toys ect. I just wanted some advice from a dog owner that could tell us alittle but more what to expect finacially. And if there are any breeds that we should or shouldn't look at it. Thanks :)
Thanks for the great answers so far... I keep getting more and more excited!
Some more details... we do live in an apartment but do have a nice grassy yard to play with the puppy. We do not want a pure breed high maintance dog... we want a cute furry family pet... again a medium sized dog is what we will be looking at. Thanks for all your information...
more details... we want a puppy so that we can train "it" the way we want, we both do work but only 8 miles from where we live so checking on the puppy throughout the day is not biggy. I work 8 to 4 and my boyfriend works either 9 to 6 or 12:30 to 9... so the puppy would be alone sometimes but again we would check on it during the day. It will defnitly get plenty of attention.



Answer
Well you have the cost of the dog. From a rescue, expect anywhere from $50 to $500 (generally not this high but some purebred rare breeds may be). From a reputable breeder, $500-$1500 depending on breed and quality of pups, parents, titles earned by parents, and health tests done. They may have a returned dog or retired one for less but I'll stick with new puppy price. Skip the pet shops. Some do have healthy puppies but many of those pups come from puppy mills. You'll get better quality for the same price or less from a reputable breeder anyway.

Food can be as low at $10 a month for low-quality food for a small dog (please use good food) up to $200 a month for quality food for a giant breed dog. Let's assume you have a medium sized breed with high quality food and $75.

Toys initially would probably be $30 at least. Make sure the toys are breed apropriate. A tiny ball is not a dane toy and a giant one is no good to a chihuahua. Avoid toys that can fit to the back of the mouth as these are choking hazzards.

The essentials: leash, collar, bowls, and a license. $35

Shots and well-puppy check can REALLY vary but let's say $100. GET THE WELL PUPPY CHECK! It isn't much if you do it when you get shots and can save you alot of heartache later. If your puppy is not healthy, your breeder's contract should cover that (this is why I recommend contracts that allow you the choice of keeping the pup with a partial refund or returning the pup for a replacement). If it came from a rescue, you will need to ask them what they do about that. All shelters are different. Some say oh well, some require the pup returned, some return the adoption fee...

Obedience classes if you choose to go can also vary but let's go with $150. Look up my other answers and you will find a list of questions to ask a trainer before trusting him/her with your puppy's future.

Spay/neuter if you choose to can also vary. A shelter pup will already be altered. $150

Crate if you crate train (I highly recommend crate training but remember that your puppy's place is with YOU, not living in his/her crate). This will depend on dog size again ($30-$250 for a standard type crate) but I'll assume medium sized dog. $100

Adding up the essentials - $740 (assuming a $500 dog so you can adjust from there)

With the extras - $1140 (subtract any of the last three if you will not be using it)

Monthly maintainence can be figured out using the numbers given. Less than $100 more than likely unless you have a giant breed.

Remember that this is just a rough estimate and it can easily be higher or lower. This does not include any meds you may choose to use monthly (I choose not to but this choice is for owner and is very much determined by the area you live in). Don't forget to keep emergency vet care in mind. BTW I DID NOT add in grooming supplies as those will depend on the breed you select.

Well that makes things easier. Look for an aussie (Austrailian Shepherd) or aussie mix. Mature between 45 and 60 lbs (females smaller than males). Energy level is moderate to high depending on the dog. Medium length double coat, variety of colors (DO NOT GET A LETHAL WHITE/DOUBLE MERLE), and very friendly personality though they WILL defend their family. Not too high maintainence though they will have a major shed once or twice a year. You can find a purebred at a breed rescue or just look on petfinder. The purebreds are no more high maintainence than the mixes but the adoption fee may be higher.

What size dog crate should I get for him?




Ashalena L


My dog is about 40-50 lbs. What size dog crate should I get for him?


Answer
Buy one with several inches to spare so your dog has plenty of room to stand up, turn around, and lie down. You also need one big enough to hold a few chew toys and big enough for your puppy to grow into. Giving your dog enough space inside the crate, and much more time outside it, insures it doesn't become the equivalent of a prison for your dog.

http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/waz.html




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Crating dogs together..?




Dragongirl


Me and a few other dog savy people (friends and family) have had a little doggy get together, just for fun and no specific breeds. We have everything from mixes to borders, pits, rotties, cattle dogs and jacks etc. Due to unforseen weather issues we have to bring all the dogs indoors (26 dogs total.) I only have 6 crates for large dogs and 3 for small ones and they are quickly filled up already. My cattle dog and my border collie are in one crate together but im kinda worried about putting dogs who have never been in crates together together. How can we insure that no fights break out in the kennels? We normaly keep the dogs outdoors in calf shelters with gates and straw and hay or a nice dog house, but its gone down to minus 15 and snowing and windy. Most are intact, and so far the past 2 days no fights or dominace issues. Tips or suggestions?
My border and my cattle dog have been in crates together before (ALOT of traveling and trials and such). But the majority of the other dogs have never been in crates with other dogs.



Answer
I don't EVER put dogs in crates together if I can help it- and NEVER ever do I kennel my dog with anyone else's dog. The only time I did it wound up with my dog getting bit with a laceration on her face.

I have also run into people who had two puppies kill each other- they were housemates, lived together and were crated together overnight- when the people woke up one of the puppies had killed the other.

Frankly- you CAN'T ensure that no fights break out especially when dogs are intact and thus more prone to aggression.

I would find another way to keep the dogs together- pens or rooms or something.

What stores are there in Canada were you can buy a crate for your dog from?




Paul D


Does Petcetera or Petsmart in Canada sell crates.


Answer
Yes Petsmart in Canada sells lots of dog crates. :)

*Here is their website and here is their Crate and kennel page:::
http://www.petsmart.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2767078&f=Taxonomy%2FPET%2F2767078&fbc=1&fbn=Taxonomy%7CCrates+%26+Kennels

*Good Luck and i Hope this Helps! :)




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Indestructible dog crate?




Opt to ado


I need to know if there is a website or store that sells indoor, large dog crates that are made out of steel or some tough metal that is virtually indestructable...?
He's broken out of wire, vari-kennel (plastic and wire), and wood...
He's a tough cookie!
It isn't that he isn't trained...He's very social, he knows obedience, doesn't bark ever...He was very abused from his former owner and as a result he doesn't want to be left alone ever...I got him from a shelter on his last day before euth...



Answer
There are a number of manufacturers of metal crates --
http://www.kustomkrates.com/ is one but there are others and if you do a search on 'metal dog crates' you should find a lot of them.

add; Being destructive and poorly trained enough to not be contented staying where you put him doesn't in any way denote that the dog is 'tough' -- I have known many quite wussy dogs that easily break out of crates because they lack the capability to control themselves when crated. I have had dogs that almost dismantled the metal crates as well -- missing bolts and bent bars now, but they were not in the least bit 'tough' dogs... merely destructive and incapable of being trusted to calmly be confined when needed. Know too if you are leaving the dog too long in the crate, it will learn to break out and once learned, they remember it... takes repetition to teach them anything else but one time destroying a crate and they remember it forever!

can my iguana live in a large wire dog crate?

Q. i was thinking if i got one it would be okay for him to live in a wire dog crate because they can be large enough for a four foot iguana and they are metal so a haet lamp would not melt it and the air could circulate through the wire also there would be a front and a side door so i could have easy access to my iguana and i would not have to go through the trouble to make a big pen for him to live in


Answer
The LAST thing an iggy needs a glass enclosure! Open air enclosures are vastly preferred.

If you get a very large wire crate, I would turn it on one end so it is taller than long or wide. They like to climb.

You would need to install some sturdy climbing shelves and branches.

You would also need to make sure he had a large soaking area, and a basking area of at least 100 degrees.

You'd need about the largest size crate they make though, don't settle for a smaller one just because it's conveniently available. Your iggy won't be happy if he's cramped.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Question about crate training for puppy?




venus_smrf


I have a new puppy, and I'm having a little trouble with her potty training. My last dogs never did their business inside their crates, but this one does on occasion. She won't pee in her crate, but yesterday, I took her outside to let her do her business, and she peed almost immediately. She hadn't eaten recently, so I thought it would be okay to put her in her crate for five minutes while I did a chore. Her crate is fairly large compared to her, but I've partitioned a space in the front of the cage that's only big enough for her to rest comfortably. That used to be enough for my other dogs to keep them from messing in their crates, but in those few minutes, she did a "number two." This is the third time she's done this, so there's obviously something going on. I need to figure out what I'm doing wrong with her training before she decides her crate is her bathroom (though I think she might already have). What am I doing wrong, and how do I fix this?
I suppose I should add the details for which everyone has been asking.

The puppy is 13 weeks and is mostly poodle. She also weighs less than a pound and a half and gets hypoglycemia very, very easily, which presents a few more problems. Since she's so small, I wouldn't give her the run of the house anyway. I have a pen for her in the living room, though of course I keep an eye on her even then, and she's only allowed in the living room and next to me on the bed at night before I actually go to sleep (she sleeps in her crate next to the bed, where I can check on her easily).
As for potty training, it poured for two weeks after I brought her home, so we started out on the pee pads anyway. I kept them by the back door, on which I hung a bell (not the jingle kind). She's already learned to ring it when she wants to go out, and getting her to pee outside is never an issue. She's very good about it, especially since I give her vitamins as a treat each time (she has to have them anyway to prevent the hypoglycemia, and this means that I don't have to mess with her diet as much). I've never had a problem with her peeing in the crate--just "finishing," as one of you put it. She seems to need to do that in the morning, right after I get her up, but she doesn't have a schedule otherwise.

Thanks for the advice so far!



Answer
I have the largest size crates for my puppies and they do just fine, I don't partition them off. You don't mention her age, so, the bladder isn't grown until 6-months-old, and they are not fully potty trained until 1-year-old. All puppies train at their own pace, so it really doesn't matter what your other dogs did, only what this puppy will do. Since you don't mention the age, or the breed, I am going to suggest you rule out something medical, bladder, kidney, urinary issue, maybe incontinence and a med like Proin could help build the bladder. I had a puppy that would hold his poop all day long until my husband came home and then he would poop. I am wondering if you are taking her potty enough. Here are some tips, use what helps. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:
*I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
*OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
*BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
*TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
*SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesnât sneak off, or for strange places.
*YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!

help on over sized dog crate!!?




Victoria N


hi, i am about to get a puppy and i need a crate. my dog is a lab. i found this one crate and it is a bit big even if the dog is fully grown. but would it still be okay?
i know that you have to block parts off when a puppy, and while house training.
but after it is fully house trained is it okay for the dog to have a bit of an oversized crate??



Answer
Too big is MUCH better than too small!
You can always partition off bits.

I brought a crate when I was house training my yorkie and went for one big enough to put my Border collie in (well you never know if you might need one!). What I did was put a cat carrier in it and covered the rest with newspaper so if he had an accident it wasn't onhis bedding (small dogs can't go overnight to start!) what you can do is gradually increase the size of the bedded area until you have done away with the papered section all together.

Good luck with your new pup




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Sabtu, 21 Juni 2014

EXTRA SMALL dog crates?




Emma L


I have a new 8 week old chihuahua and am looking for a crate that is about 12" long, 8" wide, and 10" tall. Does anyone know where I can find one for a somewhat affordable price??


Answer
Get a crate for your dog's adult size, not the puppy size. You'll save money that way. Many crates come with a divider so the puppy can be contained in a smaller area, then as the dog grows, the divider is removed.
Example: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753745

If you want a plastic crate and can't find them small enough in the dog section, look in the cat section. (My dogs have cat crates and cat beds. The size is right and for some reason cat stuff is often cheaper than dog stuff.)
.

Where can I buy a LARGE indoor dog crate for a decent price??




Jen


I have two large dogs that like to sleep together where can I purchase a crate (kennel) for them??


Answer
Try searching sites like e-bay- with two large dogs you may want to look at getting an XXL crate. There are a TON of different crate options on there and if you dont mind it being a wire crate you'll end up spending just over 100$ on the crate including shipping.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Was this dog abused at a boarding program?




Karen


Long story bear with me.
My best friend has a 1 year old boxer who is rambunctious. The dog likes to jump on people mainly to play and lick you but she can actually knock you down. Its difficult to walk her since she loves to run fast instead of walking. She doesn't bite but since she is a big boxer her playfulness comes across to a stranger as an attack. My friend knew that it was best to get her trained. She hired this guy and his plan to train her was do a 2 week boarding program that is followed up with private lessons her house. Now when she came back the dog seemed different. The follow up private lesson worked well and the dog obeyed command of sit and no. But she still had the habit of jumping up on people. She called the trainer and he said that she needed to be firm. He took her again for another boarding training this time for one week. When he brought her back I saw the dog a little skinnier and a little mopey. I sensed something off and more so that dog seemed aggressive when at the sound of loud voices. Especially if the voice is of a man. Even the sight of other dogs she started barking and jumping around more that usual.
I was at my friends house feeding the dog because my friend was running late and the trainer was coming over to check on progress and to determine if she needed more training. When the trainer rang the door bell the dog went towards the door ( door has glass window top to bottom) I don't know if saw him or smelled him and she just jumped towards the door very aggressively and broke one of the windows and started barking like crazy Almost as if she was going to attack him. The trainer calmed her down and spoke to her sternly and she sunk down.
Now I have never seem this very odd to me. I relayed this story to a coworker and he said it sounded like he might be training her to be in a dog fights. I told my friend I was concerned about her dog. And we looked for signs of physical abuse but haven't seen anything. Its just her behavior is odd. Any one have a clue? Is this type of training program normal even?



Answer
I answered a question about sending dogs away to be trained. And thank you for proving my point.

Most "professional" trainers don't have time to properly train your dogs with positive methods, and then proof them with corrections...so they skip the positive teaching phase and jump right into Koehler style yank and crank corrections training. SO what you end up with is a dog who comes home fearful, hand shy, or fear aggressive.

As far as her being used in dog fights, your friend is an idiot. What the heck does a dog being scared of the guy have to do with dog fights? Are there you know...100 bite marks on her? If not, what the heck makes her think the dog has been fought? Another example of somebody talking and not making any sense....

So now that that stupidity is out of the way, lol. The problem here is, this dog has had this guy herk and jerk her around and force her through a makeshift boot camp style obedience program that she's too weak minded to handle. It may have worked on a bunch of 2-5 year old working dogs destined to be Military Working Dogs, but that kind of harsh training on a bubbly boxer was obviously too much. NEVER send your dog off to be trained. No good trainer in the planet accepts fly ins or even drive ins to train. They'll work with you and show you how to work your dog along. You may be able to pay for group classes and get taught things step by step, or even better, personal lessons and learn new things to teach your dog and old problems to work up on every week. No real trainer will train your dog for you. I may pre-train a dog and sell it, but guess what, you're going to have to learn how to handle it, and if at all possible come here for a few days and walk through the training and timing of different things.

The dog technically hasn't been abused, but your friend's pockets have been...she's been duped by Hank & Hals You Bring 'em and We'll String 'em!!!

Mitt Romney used to put his dog in a carrier on top of his car for long trips?




Pedro


It was a full size dog, but he said it was happy up on top of the car for a 12 hour trip. Does this make sense if the carrier is securely attached, or is it a bad idea?


Answer
With the dog on the roof, the luggage must have been INSIDE the station wagon. Why would you prioritize that way? Because you knew from prior experience that your dog was a poor traveler that would vomit or have diarrhea. So if you cared about your dog, you would leave it home with a petsitter, friend, or family member, or else board it - unless you were too cheap to put your dog's comfort ahead of the padding in your wallet.

In addition to the discomfort of the wind rushing past, dehydrating and chilling the dog, who would be sufficiently confident that the straps would hold? If a suitcase falls off the roof rack, it's a problem and a potential traffic hazard; if the crate falls off, it's a dead or seriously injured panicked dog and a far more serious hazard to other drivers.

When this incident was in the news the first time, Romney supporters pointed to it as proof that he is unflappable and resourceful. What it proves to me is that he lacks the ability to empathize with the suffering of others, and puts his own desires first.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Jumat, 20 Juni 2014

Introducing Guinea Pigs?

Q. I just got 2 guinea pigs from a rescue yesterday. They are 6 and 8 weeks old and they are both males.
They are currently together in a large dog crate (but will be moved to a large pen once they settle).
They have had a couple of arguments already, but I figure they are just establishing dominance.
There's a bit of chasing and some teeth baring, and they fight occasionally (very mild, no blood drawn). LOTS of teeth chattering and threatening squeals, but they've only been together less than 24 hours so it's to be expected.

I have another guinea pig who is 5 years old. He has never lived with another guinea pig but has had a few play dates (didn't really get along with the friends).

I would like to have all 3 of them live together at some point but I'm not sure how to introduce them.
I've only found information on introducing 2 mature guinea pigs.

I also wonder, should I wait for the babies to establish temselves with eachother before introducing them to Grizzly? or should I just throw them all in together and let them sort it out as a group.

I would do all of this after 2-3 weeks of quarantine of course.

Here is a brief description of their personalities that I've goten so far.
Grizzly 5 and a half years old- He's very mellow and relatively quiet, unless he wants something. He sleeps a lot and LOVES to explore the house and cuddle.

Cooper, 8 weeks old- He is VERY bold. I've had him less than 24 hours and he's always taking food out of my hand and if I'm sitting very still he'll come right up to me, he will take off if I move an inch, but that's totally natural for now. Loves to be held and will purr and snuggle.

Remington, 6 weeks old- He's very very vocal and relatively skittish. He hides a lot but will come out if I'm not moving. He LOVES treats, he gets very excited and drags them all over to throws them in in the air with. He's fine being held, as long as you don't move. If you're just holding him against you he doesn't care but don't try to move your hand cause he'll squirm and try to run.

Any help would be GREAT!
I actually have a brand new HUGE pen (like a puppyplay pen) that I'll be moving all 3 of them in to, that's way no one is invading anybody, cause I know that can cause some issues.

I don't think Grizzly will get too bad, he will probably just be like "i'm the boss man, hear me roar!" and just be like a strict grandpa or something.

The 2 babies I'm more concerned with, I don't want them hurting eachother.

Should I put them with Griz one at a time?
Or just throw everyone together and hope everything works out?


Answer
Try putting Grizzly into the other cage in a few day's time. Then Grizzly won't feel like they're invading his territory. When they've calmed down together put all three into Grizzly's cage. I'm sure they'll be fine. Good luck :-) By the way I'm glad you're saving lives by adopting guinea pigs from a rescue centre

Guinea Pig Introductions, HELP!?

Q. Already asked this but in the wrong section:

I just got 2 guinea pigs from a rescue yesterday. They are 6 and 8 weeks old and they are both males.
They are currently together in a large dog crate (but will be moved to a large pen once they settle).
They have had a couple of arguments already, but I figure they are just establishing dominance.
There's a bit of chasing and some teeth baring, and they fight occasionally (very mild, no blood drawn). LOTS of teeth chattering and threatening squeals, but they've only been together less than 24 hours so it's to be expected.

I have another guinea pig who is 5 years old. He has never lived with another guinea pig but has had a few play dates (didn't really get along with the friends).

I would like to have all 3 of them live together at some point but I'm not sure how to introduce them.
I've only found information on introducing 2 mature guinea pigs.

I also wonder, should I wait for the babies to establish temselves with eachother before introducing them to Grizzly? or should I just throw them all in together and let them sort it out as a group.

I would do all of this after 2-3 weeks of quarantine of course.

Here is a brief description of their personalities that I've goten so far.
Grizzly 5 and a half years old- He's very mellow and relatively quiet, unless he wants something. He sleeps a lot and LOVES to explore the house and cuddle.

Cooper, 8 weeks old- He is VERY bold. I've had him less than 24 hours and he's always taking food out of my hand and if I'm sitting very still he'll come right up to me, he will take off if I move an inch, but that's totally natural for now. Loves to be held and will purr and snuggle.

Remington, 6 weeks old- He's very very vocal and relatively skittish. He hides a lot but will come out if I'm not moving. He LOVES treats, he gets very excited and drags them all over to throws them in in the air with. He's fine being held, as long as you don't move. If you're just holding him against you he doesn't care but don't try to move your hand cause he'll squirm and try to run.

Any help would be GREAT!
I'm not in the US unfortunately, I'm in Canada :(


Answer
well, i coaxed my two guinea pigs (both girls though) into living together gradually. first i had two separate cages for them that i placed side by side. then i had "sessions" in which I'd put them both in one place for about 20-30 minutes at a time, just so they'd get used to each other, but with me watching of course. I increased these sessions until finally i put them in one cage after 2 weeks or so. They never got snuggly or anything, but they were civil, they interacted fine. :)




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Where can I find an indistructable dog crate?

Q. Our dog, a lab mix under 50lbs, has managed to go through 3 crates in the last 4 years. The first two were wire crates like this... http://www.pet-super-store.com/html/simple-store-dog-crate.html. On those she tore up the bottom plastic pan and pulled in and bent the wires on the sides and door. The last one was a plastic one like this... http://www.pet-super-store.com/html/canine-champion-pet-crate.html. On that one she eventually managed to chew a huge hole through the part just under the door and squeeze herself through the hole. I'm tired of buying dogs crates one right after another and am looking for one that will hold up to her destructive powers a little bit better. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
hmm... I'll try different links...

wire one- http://www.dogkennelsandcrates.com/Majestic-Pet-Titan-Double-Door-Folding-Wire-Crate.html

plastic one- http://www.dogkennelsandcrates.com/Kennel-Aire-Plastic-Dog-Crate-40-L-x-28-W-x-30-H-Almond.html

-and I know the difference, just hoping someone with the same experience has found something that works for them.
While I appreciate people responding it would also be helpful if people read the whole post... I'm not looking for just any old dog crate. I've already tried the ones I posted links for and they don't work for us. I'm looking for something more heavy duty.


Answer
You can Google some gun-dog supply stores, many have very heavy duty crates, but they are expensive.

Here's one:
http://northcoastpets.com/crates_heavy_duty.htm

The only other concern with a heavy duty crate is that she may not be able to break out, but will she injure herself trying to get out?

How about this- don't fall over at the price:
http://www.kustomkrates.com/products/single_dog_crates/SingleDogCrates.shtml

My roommates Kylie and Jess dared me to let them padlock me in this heavy duty dog cage/crate they have before?




Caitlin


they leave for work. She bet me 50 dollars I couldn't get out of It before they got home. I think I could. Are my odds good that I could get out or not. It's metal etc. but as Ive said before I'm 145 5'8" and in shape.

Relisted because I didnt really get any good answers.



Answer
You say your room mates so I'm guessing your in your 20s? I would have assumed by now that dares were a bit below you. But my mum's dog has a lightway dog cage for her pup and it does get out of that. Saying this it's a skinny thing and it's a poor cage. I personally wouldn't do it. But if you decide to make sure your in site of the tv and have the remote in there because you could be in for a long wait.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

traveling with my dog?




Spicatt


i am taking my dog with me to Bahrain from denver and we going to have to take 2 different airlines ,, is there different fees for both of them or i have to pay it once only ? how long before i leave i should reserve ticket for him and do i reserve the ticket " way back " at the same time too ?


Answer
Hello,

Yes you should definatly book your Dog's flight along with yours, especially if you are planning on taking him/her on board with you. There is a weight limit if you are doing this usually between 15-20 lbs per dog with soft crate. The airlines only allow a certain amount of dogs on board so it is better to get the ticket earlier and it should only be about $50 per trip, not both transfers. Call ASAP and book to make sure you get the tickets.

Another note, if you are putting your dog in cargo please I cannot emphasis this enough, make sure your dog has plenty of water and before the plane leaves ask the airline what other materials the plane is traveling with in cargo. This could be very dangerous for dogs and only in an emergency should you travel with a larger dog that you have to place in cargo. If you have to wait as long as you can to give them your dog so that he/she is in cargo for the least amount of time and make that your first priority once you get off. Since you are taking a transfer also make sure that your dog will be transferred with you.

Its not easy traveling with a dog as I have done it in the past but once you get to your destination what better to have with you than your trusty companion.

Enjoy your trip and please read up more about pet travel on the web and with your individual carrier.

Dog going to the bathroom indoors?




David H


We have had the dog for 2 years now and have crate trained her, puppy pads, etc. nothing seems to work. We leave pads out and she won't use them. We can't put her in the crate since she escapes (bends the cage doors and goes out butt first) and she also licks the locks rusting them. She is 50 lbs. pit bull/german shepard mix.

We bought a steam cleaner, but does anyone have any suggestions for getting her to use the pads more often? We take her out at 6:30 AM and are home at 5:00 everyday since we all work.

Appreciate the help.



Answer
Have someone come over and take her out during the day. That's a really long time for a dog to be left alone and have to hold it, especially since it sounds young. Make sure that she gets long walks, since both of those breeds are extremely athletic and need a lot of excersise and mental stimulation.

If I lived in your area I'd totally walk her for you O;




Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How does crate training work?

Q. I have a bichon frise and I am trying to housebreak her. My friend said to use crate training. What is and how do you do "crate training"?


Answer
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.


A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.


Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.


We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.


Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.


Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.


Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.

In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone


Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:


The pup is too young to have much control.

The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.

The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.

The pup has worms.

The pup has gaseous or loose stools.

The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.

The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.

The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)

The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.


Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.


Crating Duration Guidelines

9-10 Weeks
Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks
Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks
Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks
Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)


*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)


The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]


Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.


Barking In The Crate

In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.


When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.

s/he is vomiting.

you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
(See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)

the temperature is excessively high.

s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

Is a miniature pincher a good dog?




champ111





Answer
The Miniature Pinscher is not truly a good dog for a novice, one who truly has little experience with dogs.
They are one of the oldest of the Terriers and not truly a toy breed.
Created as a feral dog as feral cats are today. They were bred to be free thinking and independent of human intervention to survive on vermin they ferreted and live in barns. Many misunderstand the independent nature and assume they are "stubborn" but in fact they are not. They are being what they were bred to be, intelligent and independent.
Never a first or even a second dog for anyone as they are extremely high energy and require a securely fenced yard to run in and exercise. Failing to allow for the exercising causes the breed to be destructive and end result will chew and tear into furniture, carpet, walls etc. Not to mention they will not allow you much sleep at nite. Rated the 3rd worst breed for apartments, due primarily to their instinctive nature to guard they will bark at anything they deem a threat. They do not do well with over handling. End result is they are not a natural lap dog nor tolerate being physically forced whether picked up or handled at all. This leads to the issue of nipping and eventually biting. They are not good with children primarily for the reasons mentioned. Children like to grab and hold. Miniature Pinschers are not tolerant of this. They are extremely difficult to house train. In most cases they never achieve total house training. In addition, training in general is difficult since they breed was bred to be free thinking it will try even the most experienced dog persons patience. Recall, is near impossible if the dog gets loose as it is a sight dog and reacts to anything that moves quickly. At that point it assumes it is prey and the hunt is on. Daily walks are never enough exercise for this breed and one should never assume so. To answer your question, yes only if you have had serious time working with breeds of this nature and have a total understanding of Terriers. Otherwise, no it is not a good breed. They need to be literally watched all the time as prone to getting into trouble. They need to be crate trained early to avoid issues when not at home. Extremely inquisitive they find ways to get up on things such as counter tops, kitchen tables etc. They will also show no fear in most cases when it comes to other breeds especially larger ones. They can often attack larger objects thus are prone to getting hurt.
Other issues include patella luxation, leggs perthes, premature ocular degeneration (early blindness). Prone to overeating they are subject of diabetes as well as epilepsy.
They are soley the product of crossing a smooth coated Dachshund with an Italian Greyhound. They are a member of the Deutscher (German) Pinscher family of dogs which includes the Affenpinscher, Doberman's pinscher, Schnauzers and German Pinscher.




Powered by Yahoo! Answers