What can I put in my pet's crate that are safe?

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Diana

I have 2-3 month old Beagle puppies I would love to cuddle with 24/7, however I have a pretty busy life and need to leave them alone in their crate for a few hours every other day. What essentials should I leave them with while I am away without having to worry about their safety??

Answer
Great info on crate training:


Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.


A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.


Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.


We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.


Preparing the Crate

Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.


Wire Mesh type:Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.


Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.


Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.


Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.


Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.


Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:




Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.


In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)


You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.


It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.








A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.


Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]


Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:



The pup is too young to have much control.


The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.


The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.


The pup has worms.


The pup has gaseous or loose stools.


The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.


The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.


The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)


The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.



Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.

How Much Should I Put In?

210sheep

At the end of the summer, I will be geting a show - quality puppy. I am starting a bank account to save up for it. How much money sould I put in? These are the factors that need to be considered right now:
cost of pup including shipping
Importation fees
Registration fees with the AKC, Canadian KC, KC, or Austrailian Kennel Council
Food and Water Bowls
Collar and Leash
Crate and dog bed
Ex - pen (playpen)
Grooming Tools
Toys
Dog Food
Grooming Table
What do these things cost? What else needs to be considered?

Answer
A lot of that depends on the size/breed of dog you get.

For example, a nice wire crate for a smaller dog will be around $50-$70 US. If you have a large dog, it could be up to $200+ US.

Registration fees are normally included in the purchase price of the dog.

For a show quality dog, you will spend somewhere between $1500-$5000 (or more, if the dog has very desirable bloodlines).

Shipping is usually around $250-300 US if shipping to and from locations are both inside the US.

Food & Water Bowls: $15 for both

Collar and leash: $15-20 for both (standard nylon collar & leash) I recommend Lupine brand for your day-to-day collar and leash because they are guaranteed; free replacements even if they are chewed up. Of course, if you are showing, you need the appropriate show leash in addition to your day-to-day equipment.

Grooming tools: Depends on the breed what tools you need.

Dog food - Depends on the size of the dog how much it eats. (Go with a quality food though, like one of these: Merrick, Solid Gold, Canidae, Timberwolf, Orijen, Wellness, Chicken Soup brand, Innova/EVO, etc..)

Toys - average $2-5 US each

Don't forget to budget for vet bills, flea preventative, heartworm preventative, etc.. I recommend budgeting at around $750 for the first year. (If you are showing your dog, then you won't be spaying/neutering it, so you can subtract that from the $750.)

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How much is it to take my dog with me on a plane?

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dani94

I am moving to chicago from florida and i really want to take me dog. He weighs 45 pounds BTW. PLEASE HELP!!!!

Answer
It varies from airline to airline.......I've attached some helpful information below:

Pick a reputable airline Fly from a major city to a major city (with possibly some driving at either end) to keep travel to a direct, non-stop flight. Also, be willing to adjust your time and schedule to give your dog the advantage of the best possible flight.

Making reservations. If you have always used a travel agent, consider whether that person is well aware of your dog's importance to the planning. If there isn't that reassurance, make your own plans with the airlines directly. It's easy to do, and the airline reservationist can probably answer all the questions you want to ask. After you decide on the best flight you are going to take, and remember to reserve a place for your dog, you should find out:
a) what type of plane you will be flying on, and the cargo size. Ask if the cargo compartment on that plane is heated or not. Remember that no matter what the ground temperature is at either end of your travel, up 30,000 feet the temperature can be 45 degrees or less. Practically all the main cargo areas are heated, and the temperature is kept at 65 degrees once up in the air. But ask, so you know what your dog is experiencing.
b) ask if any other dogs will be on the flight. There is a limit to the number of dogs allowed on each flight, and it varies by the size of the plane and the sizes of the dogs traveling.
c) realize that your dog can be bumped from a flight if a corpse is being transported (health reasons).
d) check with airlines what records are required for travel; usually a Health Certificate is required.
e) for seat assignment, ask to sit up front as close as possible, so that you can be one of the first ones down to the baggage claim area. At some airports, dogs are unloaded first, and make it to the baggage area quickly.
f) if where you're going to or traveling from may have temperature concerns, schedule morning or evening flights. Also, try to travel at less busy times; mid-morning, instead of first thing when a lot of business people are traveling. Early evening (if hot, any time after 5 may be ok, but again think of prime travel time.

Preparations. Use a high quality, sturdy, airline approved crate. The size should fit the size of the dog; don't buy or borrow a crate too big or too small. Too small means the dog cannot stand up in the crate (also a requirement by the FAA); too large can cause injury to your dog if there is too much room should the crate not be handled carefully and the dog is jostled within the crate. Use an appropriate size Vari-Kennel. Also travel with a separate heavy duty set of wheels, which are loaded with the dog, and most times the dog and wheels come back out together. The set of wheels are not considered a piece of luggage, but as part of the dog's travel equipment. Have a thermal reflective sheet folded and taped on the entire top of the crate to reflect heat, in case dog is left out in the sun for any amount of time. Decorate or stripe the crate to distinguish your crate from others.

Prior to traveling. If your dog has not used an airline crate before, set it up at home and let him sleep in it occasionally. If your dog is very sensitive to being "left", put an article of your clothing in it, with his blanket or pad, and when you leave the house on short errands, close the dog in the crate and let him get use to being "enclosed" by himself. If your dog is sound sensitive, realize airline engines are very loud. Sound sensitize your dog before your trip too. There are tapes, or make one of your own at an airport, of the loud noises. Also, make sure your dog's shots are up to date, and obtain a HEALTH CERTIFICATE for travel. Get the heath certificate from your vet (usually a fee of $10-25) as close to travel time as possible; it has a time limit.

Watch the weather report. Know that the temperature regulations for flying a dog is 10 degrees minimum and 85 degrees maximum, at both cities, at the time of check in (one hour before the flight, usually). They won't fly your dog over or under these extremes. Have in your mind an alternate plan should this happen. Will you allow the airlines to fly your dog without you on a later flight? Be mentally prepared to take another flight if your dog has to or don't go at all.

The day of flying. Get to the airport in of time; one and a half hours early is plenty. You will check in at the main ticket counter, because you have to purchase your dog's ticket then (no pre-purchasing for dog). Your dog is considered "excess baggage", and it is easier if you buy for both flights at once; saves trouble of having to do it a second time. Some people will keep a water dish attached inside the crate door. The problem with that, unless you freeze the water, is that it will usually splash out before your dog is boarded. Instead, carry a small water dish, a bottle of water, and leash in your carry on bag; ss soon as you get to your dog, open the crate, scream "hello" back, and have water in a dish ready immediately. When it's time for your dog to be loaded to be taken down to the plane, don't let them take him down too early. If they insist, ask where and how the dogs are kept before they're loaded. Sometimes there are air-conditioned (or heated) "hold" rooms. Sometimes they might be left outside; KNOW WHAT THAT AIRPORT DOES WITH THE DOGS before loading time. As soon as you leave your dog (and a kind "please take care of my dog" doesn't hurt) head for the gate you're leaving from. Find the side of the plane the luggage is loaded on, and watch for your dog to be loaded. If they start loading the plane, and you haven't seen your dog loaded yet, tell the gate person you're waiting a few minutes to make sure your dog is loaded first. If you board the plane first, tell one of the stewardesses up front you're waiting for confirmation. Keep on top of things, so that BOTH of you are on the same flight. DON'T ASSUME ANYTHING!

Landing. Get to the baggage area as soon as possible. Ask where the "OVERSIZE" baggage is brought; it's different than where the luggage is. Forget your luggage for now- it will just keep going around on the conveyer belt. Stick to the "oversize" area, and if the luggage has started to show up, start asking where the dogs are. As soon as they bring the crate through the door, pull it off to the side, have your leash ready, then say "HELLO!" Overexcitement is very common- just sit there and be licked like crazy- it's normal. Have water available, once your dog settles down. After those first moments of reuniting, go outside. Then go find your luggage, and take off to the trial. Another tip; if you're renting a car, have a sheet in your carry on bag that can protect the car seats- be courteous and conscientious!

If connecting flights: If the time in between flights is more than 75-90 minutes, consider pulling your dog off. Go to the "oversize" baggage area; there's usually a counter around with someone to speak to. Give them the flight # you just arrived on, and tell them you want to pull your dog off for a few minutes. Be firm and insistent, and pleasant about it. Ask when they need the dog back to load on the next flight. Follow the same procedure you did on the first flight to make sure your dog is loaded.

Never let up on knowing where your dog is at all times, and what conditions he's under. Ask lots of questions, demand good answers. Ask for someone in management if you don't get answers. The more you know and plan before your flight can make the flight actually enjoyable for both of you! GOOD LUCK!

How often should I take my puppy out at night?

Berenice O

I just got a 3 month old chihuahua yesterday. I take her out every hour during the day, after play, after naps and meals but im not sure how often to take her out at night.(she only had one accident but she was scared when she came in).. Im a pretty heavy sleeper and im afraid i wont hear her and she will have an accident. She sleeps on the bed with me because she hates her crate and cries for HOURS!! She would fall asleep on the bed and then i moved her to her crate but she would wake up crying when she noticed she wasnt on the bed anymore. I found that she sleeps longer when she is with me on the bed. I took her food and water away at 8pm, 2 hours before bed time. Should i set my alarm clock every few hours and wake her up to go potty? I need advice. Please help!!

Answer
Put the dog in the crate and let it cry. It bothers you much more than it does the dog. The dog will never get used to the crate if it knows you will take her out every time she whines. The purpose of the crate is to give the dog a safe place to be and to assist with house breaking.

A puppy does not belong on the bed. It WILL pee and or poop on the bed and being on the bed is dangerous for the puppy. Set your alarm and take her out at least once an hour at night. Maybe more, maybe less. NO puppy can hold it all night. In a week you will know more about her nighttime needs. In the meantime, never free feed. The dog should be on a feeding schedule. Depending on where you live you cannot remove the water 2 hours before putting the dog down for the night. In hot areas the dog needs access to water.

The dog should never be out of the crate except for outside toilet duties, to eat, and for supervised play. Never give a dog that is not 100 percent house broken free rein of the home.

You said she was scared when she came in. You should have been outside with the dog. You have no idea what a puppy is doing outside unless you physically go out with the dog.

Babies cry at first also when mom puts them down. Mom knows the infant is changed, clean and fed and there is nothing wrong with the baby and ignores it. After a few nights the baby no longer cries when put down to sleep. Same principle with a puppy. LET IT CRY.

You will have a much easier time training your dog if you are in charge from day one. Right now, she is in charge because you could not handle the whining and crying.

Wrap a towel around a heating pad on its lowest setting and place it under one end of the crate, and give her a stuffed animal about the same size and coloring of the puppy. She is accustomed to the warmth of mom and the litter mates.

EDIT: Please do NOT put puppy pads or papers in the crate. This will confuse the puppy. It is NOT OK to do this and let her pee and poop where she sleeps. This is what lazy people do because they can't be bothered to get up at night and take the puppy outside.

I do know what I am talking about. I have a 4 year old, 3 pound Yorkshire Terrier that I got as a puppy and she has NEVER seen a puppy pad or paper on the floor or in a crate.....and I reside in Alaska. The outdoors has always been her toilet.

Cherish your new dog and good luck!

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What type of advertising would be good for dog kennells?

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My girlfriend is setting up her dog kennel's and was wondering if anybody knew a good way for advertising for people to see that her service is there we are situated in Ireland.And if anbody knows a good advertising company and if anybody does advertising cards or anything like that would be great thank you.

Answer
You can get discount business cards on the internet- I would also put up fliers at the Vet offices, pet stores and contact as many dog show people as possible. Contact the British Kennel Club for show sites and dates, meet and make contact with people. Hand out cards, do some handshaking and schmoozing. Put ads in local papers, and on the radio. Have a Grand Opening with drawings for prizes and free goodies for the dogs- Like snacks with your business card attached or munchies for the owners with your business name on petit fours in the shape of biscuits. Its lots of work but once your name is out there if she gives little extras as well as great service, word of mouth will do the rest. Good Luck!

Do they make misters that you can put around your dogs kennel outside?

GLAMOROUS

I was wondering if they made a mister (like a soaker hose) that you can put around your dogs kennel. I know the summer is coming and I want my dog to be as comfortable as possible while I'm @ work. And I was wondering if a mister would help him be cool?. I have no room in my garage to put him there and I already have one dog in the house and don't think I can trust them both to be in the house together while I'm not there.

Answer
Sure you can. Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and get the ones ment for the garden and rig it up for the dog! Also get a timer this way you can set it so your dog won't get soaked. It's very inexpensive and a great way to keep your dog cool durring the hot summer day! Just measure out what you will need and then get the right number of mister heads and hose and go to work!

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How much does it cost for a heart worm treatment?

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Alyssa

My dog had heart worm for a while and we want to treat it but we need to know how much it costs,

Answer
If your dog had "heart worm for awhile" he still has it and it is worse. It WILL KILL your dog.

Life cycle of heartworm:

A mosquito stops by for a meal and inadvertently sucks up a number of circulating microfilaria (Worms) in the blood. Once inside the mosquitoâs body, the microfilaria go through two molts over 14 days or longer depending on the environmentâs temperature. They go through their first two molts and change from an Larva1 to an Larva2 and then an Larva2 to an Larva3 (third stage of development of the larva). As an Larva3, they have gotten into the mosquitoâs mouth and the saliva and when the mosquito has its next meal they burrow into the dog through the mosquito's small bite wound.

Once inside a dog, it continues development, the worm takes at least 6 to 7 months to go through the last two molts and to become sexually mature before the infection can be detected by a Heartworm test at the vets. The L3 larva goes through its first molt to the L4 within the first 15 days and as early as 2-5 days after infection. The second molt from the L4 to the L5 occurs within the next 2 months. The L5 larva is considered a juvenile adult and works itâs way through the hostâs tissues all the way to the heart as early as 70 days after first entering the host. Before it reaches the heart, it is in the blood. If your dog has a heartworm test and it comes back positive the worms are mature and are living in the heart. The majority of L5 larvae arrive in the heart by 90 days after the bite by the misquito. They stay here and grow rapidly in length and size. The worm is home and will live here until it dies in 5-7 years.

Adult female worms have been known to grow up to 14 inches long and males are generally shorter. Some pets are infected with numerous worms, all traveling from the site of the mosquito bite to their preferred home in the heart. This mass of twisted and intertwined worms can serve as a significant blockage to the normal flow of blood. Think of a garden hose. If pieces of debris block the hose, pressure builds up due to the obstruction of the flow of water. This is what happens to the heart and blood vessels when more and more worms congregate within the right ventricle. The smaller the host the fewer worms it takes to cause a problem.


The next thing that occurs is that the pet begins to play and run less, seems to have less energy and tires easily, panting.
This is because the worms are crowding the heart not allowing it to beat properly, thus sending less oxygen to the brain and other organs.

It is very very dangerous for a dog to run and play while these worms are in the heart.

The treatment is condusted by a vet. It involves injections and oral meds to be given at home. Treatment usually takes 1-3 months and it is not a guarentee that the animal will survive.

The treatment is arsnic which poisens the worms (and the dog ) killing the worms. As they die, little pieces of the worms brake off in the heart and travel to the lungs, there causing a blockage in the pulmonary artery or other arties in the lungs. At that time the dog can die instantly.
During treatment the dog must be crated, and not allowed to play, run or climb stairs so a piece of the owrk doesn't go to his lungs.
The dog can be taken out every day and aloowed to walk in the house, going out on a leash to potty.

Depending on the degree of infestation, it can take 1-3 months to cure. then you will put your dog on preventive meds for this.

Cost: depending on where you live and so on, about $500.00 and up.
I had a rescue dog that had them and I paid 2000.00, but he was cured.

Call your vet fro an appointment and let him tell you.

Hope this helps.

Should we crate train or put a gate up in the laundry room?

Poppy's sl

We are getting a puppy in a week from a pet shelter.. should we crate train it with a wire kennel or leave her in the laundry room with a gate across the door? Just at night. She will be 40lbs max but she is 11 weeks old. American Eskimo/Collie mix.

Answer
Crate train... this is a place for your dog to get away from it all when she needs to. Dogs naturally like den-like places, this will be her den, her bedroom. Not only will this help with her security... but it will help your sanity!

If your dog ever gets hurt (God forbid), "crate" rest is the best solution in many situations. If she ends up having separation anxiety and starts tearing your house apart, a crate is the best solution (along with a cozy blanket and a Kong). It can also be a traveling solution!

In the end, its your decision, but as a professional in the animal care business (vet tech), I recommend crate training. As a mommy to many lovely dogs, I recommend crate training.

Here is a link to some tips for crate training... http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html
... it may be hard for the first few nights, she might cry and give you puppy dog eyes. Don't worry, that will all pass.

Good luck with your new family addition, and thank you for adopting!

Also, if you decide to crate train, you need to start with a small one. Think about a Life Stages Dog wire crate (http://www.petcratesdirect.com/dog-crates-life-stages.html) that has a divider so it can grow with your puppy!

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What happened after Mark Hoffman forged The Salamander Letters in Utah in the mid-1980s?

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Q.

Answer
He was going to write the tadpole letters until on October 15, 1985, he first killed document collector Steven Christensen, the son of a locally prominent clothier. Later the same day, a second bomb killed Kathy Sheets, the wife of Christensen's former employer. As Hofmann had intended, police initially suspected that the bombings were related to the impending collapse of an investment business of which Kathy Sheets' husband, J. Gary Sheets, was the principal and Christensen his protégé. The following day, Hofmann himself was severely injured when a bomb exploded in his car. Although police quickly focused on Hofmann as the suspect in the bombings, some of Hofmann's business associates went into hiding, fearing they might also become victims.

Hofmann was arrested for murder and forgery in February 1986. In January 1987, he pled guilty to second-degree murder and theft-by-deception to avoid the death penalty, confessing his forgeries in open court. In January 1988, he was sentenced to life in prison.

In 1988, before the Utah Board of Pardons, Hofmann confessed that he thought planting the bomb that killed Kathy Sheets was "almost a game⦠at the time I made the bomb, my thoughts were that it didn't matter if it was Mrs. Sheets, a child, a dog⦠whoever" was killed. Within the hour the parole board, impressed by Hofmann's "callous disregard for human life" decided that he would indeed serve his "natural life in prison."

Last nights episode of Jon and kate plus 8?

Q. what did you think? Is it getting worse? Do you think you might quit watching it or does all of this make it even more interesting?

Answer
I think I'm pretty much done with the show.

I think it's clear Jon wants to be done with the program, go back to his 9-to-5 IT job, and live something resembling his old normal life. I honestly can't see how they're going to be able to work out whatever problems they're having while they're still doing the show - and even if they quit today, the paparazzi will still be around for months afterwards. Just in case.

So now they're basically separated, just living in the same house but not at the same time. If Kate's out, Jon's home, if Kate's home, Jon's out. Yeah, and that doesn't seems awkward at all, now does it?

Especially with Jon being gone during Kate's birthday. What the heck? His trip to Utah HAD to be right during that time, and then he just happened to be scheduled to work with handicapped kids who want to go skiing or snow boarding? Yeah, that had "desperate production crew" scribbled all over it. Talk about throwing the dog a bone...

And the trip to Charm City Cakes was just disgusting. No, not because of the way the kids decorated their cakes. That was cute. But the whole trip seemed like a badly orchestrated way of cross-promoting the two shows. Yeah, the wife and I like Ace Of Cakes too but come on, this was just bad. Like 'Scooby Doo meets the Globetrotters' bad.

At this rate, they're going to end up having Cara and Mady do a cameo on The Hills or something...

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How do you get dog crates in Ireland?

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Hi my name is Robert and was wondering if anybody knew if somebody sells dog crates in Ireland or Northern Ireland they are a big thing in America and have had no look looking for them my girlfriend is setting up dog kennel's and she would really like to get them but there is none were we have looked thank you for your time and help

Answer
Do you have petstores there? Petco and Petsmart sells them.
they may be able to ship... i dont know though since your out of country..

If not you could make one... not hard to do 3 sides and a door

What is the most cost efficient way to heat my garage?

miller_tim

Our old home has a basement for our dog kennels. We have just bought a new townhouse to move closer to our jobs and we must now move the kennels into the 2 car garage. The garage ceiling is insulated and sits below our kitchen. Both walls that we share with our neighbors in the townhouse are insulated. It was 18F today and the garage was just too cold for me to feel comfortable leaving the animals for a few hours a day.

I want to add a heater for their comfort but don't want to pay insane electric bills or kill em with fumes.

What is the best way to keep these guys comfortable through the winter without breaking the bank?

Answer
You can install a wall heater. My cousin put one in their garage, set up some chairs and a T.V., its thier smoking room. The dog hangs out there, it's really comfortable. We live in Chicago. I wouldn't use space heaters, they are not safe.
Also, you can get heated crate pads, check your local pet store.

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How can I prepare my California born and raised Maltepoo for the cold Idaho winter?

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chumchumbu

We are considering taking him with us when we go for our Christmas vacation (7 days). But he has always been in sunny San Diego. He is 8 months old. Will it be a shock for him? Or will he adapt to the weather change without any problems? What can I do to prepare him for this? Thanks!

Answer
I wouldn't worry. It sounds like his mix breed gives him plenty of hair. Where I live we go from one extreme to the other and the dogs all do fine. When it is below 30 degrees I put a sweater on the ones with thin coats, but your dog should do just fine.

Just remember a good crate and blankets, maybe a doggie sweater and a favorite toy... bring those with and he should have a blast with you~!

What is the safe age to allow a puppy to fly in a small aircraft (not the airlines)?

top50_99

I'm looking to pick up a puppy from Northern San Diego County and would transport him via Cessna 172 to El Monte (about an hour flight at most). She's 8 weeks and I'd be a relatively low altitudes the entire flight. Or should I just make the drive?

Answer
I have a Doggie who has been an enthusiastic junior pilot for a number of years, and flies with me all the time in a single-engine airplane. She loves it and gets really excited when we are going to fly. She was about nine (9) weeks old when she had her first ride, and she adjusted well.

I gather from your question you mean that you will be flying as PIC--just you and the puppy. If there is a passenger who can hold the puppy, it makes things a lot easier.

But you should be able to put the puppy in a crate or a cardboard box with plenty of air and light holes, and belt the box into the right seat. Your puppy will need plenty of assurance that you are there. She should be able to see you, and you should pet her or at least tap on the box and speak to her often as you fly.

The biggest problem for dogs in airplanes is the noise. Engine noise can damage their sensitive little ears easily. The best solution for a small puppy is to muffle the sound by keeping a towel wrapped around the crate or box. When the dog gets bigger, you can buy hearing protection for her. They look really weird, but there are dog headsets on the market that provide really good hearing protection.

Also, it's a good idea to familiarize the puppy with the airplane first. Carry her all around the airplane and let her sniff all the odd new smells before boarding. That's always a good idea for any pet.

I usually recommend driving unless you intend to make your dog a regular flying companion. In this case you sound like a conscientious pilot, and you would probably take good care of your puppy in flight.

As a last resort you can always sedate the puppy. Consult your veterinarian as to what to give her.

Have fun.

(Now that my Doggie is a mature adult, she just rides in the seat with two short bungie cords attaching her halter to the seat belt. She likes to put her paws up on the arm rest and look out the window.)

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Do you think this will work for my dog?

dog crate large dimensions image

JuJuBee

We have a Greater Swiss Mountain Dog, she weighs 130 lbs. We want to get her the Tuff-N-Rugged Large doghouse. It says fits dogs up to 125. It is a really good price at Costco. Does anyone have this house? If so do you think it will be ok for my dog?
More deets: It is just for when we hang out in the backyard.

Answer
I would check out the measurements of it and compare it to a crate measurement, honestly. Measure the dog to the top of the shoulders and add 6 inches. Then measure the dog from the front of the chest to the base of the tail and add 6 inches. Those are the minimum dimensions you'd need for the house.

what should the dimensions of my dog house be?

Pam

we're getting a Newfoundland dog and we were wondering how big the dog house should be? is is 41in X 25in big enough?
i don't plain on keeping her outside 24/7 she'll live in the house with me :)

Answer
Dorothy S is exactly right. Newfies want to be with their people. They are NOT outdoor dogs. Please don't get a Newfie if you plan on keeping the Newf outdoors, they want/NEED to be with their families. Newfoundlands are very social and affectionate dogs.

Please join Newf Net to meet other Newfoundland owners and learn more about the breed.

http://www.newf.net/Forums/
Edit:
Just in case you meant a crate (and not a house for outdoors) this is about the right size:
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-1542-iCrate-Single-Door-42-By-28-By-30-Inch/dp/B000OX64P8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345634705&sr=8-2&keywords=x+large+dog+crate


EDIT #2 ***********
Ok great- I am glad to hear that she will be an indoor dog. You will want to be with her, too.
Here is a link to a dog house with dimensions for giant breed dogs:
http://www.classypetshop.com/x-large-climate-master-plus.htm

Good luck with your Newfoundland. I still recommend joining Newf Net if this is your first Newfie. :)

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How large should my dogs crate be?

dog crates small image

chris

I have a German Shepherd puppy. Videos that I have been watching say that I should get a dog crate wherein my dog can stand sit and turn. I've been thinking that if I do get such a size, my dog's growth will stop because of the crate. Also, German Shepherds are large bred dogs. What will happen when it grows up? I find it too expensive to buy a crate everytime the dog grows bigger.

Answer
It will not restrict his size. He might be uncomfortable in a crate that is too small AND you should never leave him in there for too long. My bullmastiff has the largest crate we could buy (even through special order). He now is too big for it, but still sleeps in it every night with the door open...voluntarily. I would never leave him in it for long, but if I can't put him outside when I leave for short periods of time due to weather, etc, I will close the door. He can still stand up and turn around in it, but I would never leave him in there for more than an hour or two...and he LIKES the cage.

As far as restricting growth...as I said before, it won't. My dog is now over 100 lbs...I do not think his growth has been restricted in the slightest.

Buy the largest one you can buy...german shepherds are not as big as bullmastiffs, but they are still very large. If he seems to like it more cozy, divide off part of the crate so the area is smaller while he is still little. My dog didn't care wither way.

What is a dog crate used for and should I get one?

I Am A Per

I am thinking about getting a dog but I don't know what a dog crate is used for and would u reccomend one?

Answer
Wow be carful who you listen to! NEVER PUNISH YOUR PUP TO HIS CRATE!!!!!! EVER EVER EVER! NOT CRULE unless u leave them in there more then eight hours! Ok here it goes

yes its for potty training
pup should have free axcess to the crate at all times
crate should be big enough for the pup to stand lydown and turn around (dogs dont like to sleep where they go so thats y you dont want more room)
to get pup use to crate you can put small bits of high value food in the crate for the 1st 3 days works on there foraging sensors and makes it a happy place (not 100% needed but helps alot)
the crate is sopose to act like a den and a safe place for you pup to retreet to (THATS Y YOU NEVER PUNISH A PUP TO HIS CRATE!)
When you first start using the crate u start out just leaveing the pup in there for short periods of time whaen home somethimes and when going out for short periods of time for example put pup in and leave for half an hour (dont make a big deal of you leaveing) next time leave for two hours ect.. NEVER leave a dog in a crate for more than 8 hrs. Its said that a pup can hold there potties for one hour for every month of there age up to 8 months after that its your bad and moving twards neglect.
The crate should be place in an area where the pup can see and here the ppl in the house. and much like a human child if he keeps crying put some earplugs in and let him b if not hell never get use to it. But if your start him off right he shouldent get to upset.

No food or water in the crate and toys only if theres absolutly no way it can harm him but personally it makes me nervous ( dont want pup to choke)

And for future advise make sure you ask a trainer... Like me ;)
If you have any more pup questions feel free to contact me personaly for pro advise Vegetagirl6767@yahoo.com

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How large should my dogs crate be?

dog crate 100 image

chris

I have a German Shepherd puppy. Videos that I have been watching say that I should get a dog crate wherein my dog can stand sit and turn. I've been thinking that if I do get such a size, my dog's growth will stop because of the crate. Also, German Shepherds are large bred dogs. What will happen when it grows up? I find it too expensive to buy a crate everytime the dog grows bigger.

Answer
It will not restrict his size. He might be uncomfortable in a crate that is too small AND you should never leave him in there for too long. My bullmastiff has the largest crate we could buy (even through special order). He now is too big for it, but still sleeps in it every night with the door open...voluntarily. I would never leave him in it for long, but if I can't put him outside when I leave for short periods of time due to weather, etc, I will close the door. He can still stand up and turn around in it, but I would never leave him in there for more than an hour or two...and he LIKES the cage.

As far as restricting growth...as I said before, it won't. My dog is now over 100 lbs...I do not think his growth has been restricted in the slightest.

Buy the largest one you can buy...german shepherds are not as big as bullmastiffs, but they are still very large. If he seems to like it more cozy, divide off part of the crate so the area is smaller while he is still little. My dog didn't care wither way.

What is a dog crate used for and should I get one?

I Am A Per

I am thinking about getting a dog but I don't know what a dog crate is used for and would u reccomend one?

Answer
Wow be carful who you listen to! NEVER PUNISH YOUR PUP TO HIS CRATE!!!!!! EVER EVER EVER! NOT CRULE unless u leave them in there more then eight hours! Ok here it goes

yes its for potty training
pup should have free axcess to the crate at all times
crate should be big enough for the pup to stand lydown and turn around (dogs dont like to sleep where they go so thats y you dont want more room)
to get pup use to crate you can put small bits of high value food in the crate for the 1st 3 days works on there foraging sensors and makes it a happy place (not 100% needed but helps alot)
the crate is sopose to act like a den and a safe place for you pup to retreet to (THATS Y YOU NEVER PUNISH A PUP TO HIS CRATE!)
When you first start using the crate u start out just leaveing the pup in there for short periods of time whaen home somethimes and when going out for short periods of time for example put pup in and leave for half an hour (dont make a big deal of you leaveing) next time leave for two hours ect.. NEVER leave a dog in a crate for more than 8 hrs. Its said that a pup can hold there potties for one hour for every month of there age up to 8 months after that its your bad and moving twards neglect.
The crate should be place in an area where the pup can see and here the ppl in the house. and much like a human child if he keeps crying put some earplugs in and let him b if not hell never get use to it. But if your start him off right he shouldent get to upset.

No food or water in the crate and toys only if theres absolutly no way it can harm him but personally it makes me nervous ( dont want pup to choke)

And for future advise make sure you ask a trainer... Like me ;)
If you have any more pup questions feel free to contact me personaly for pro advise Vegetagirl6767@yahoo.com

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How to get a big dog out of airport?

dog crates on wheels image

Alex

Okay, so I have a big 60 pound dog. I want to take her with me on a vacation to Orlando, Florida. There is absolutely no way we could carry her out in a kennel or crate. I was wondering of I would be able to walk her out with a leash or if I would have to get some sort of kennel with wheels.

Answer
Yes, you put the dog on a leash.

How can I make traveling with my dog easier?

I'm planning a trip, either to California (San Diego) Nevada (Vegas) or Alaska (not sure where)

Of course we'd be going by flight, so what is required? A health check for sure, but what else? How
can I make it more comfortable for him? I've never traveled with him before, except by car.

I don't know if this helps, but he's a Rottweiler.. four years old.

BQ- Have you ever traveled with your dog? Was it a good experience? Where'd you go?

Answer
They no longer advocate sedatives for dogs in cargo travelling.

And you cannot take the dog through the airport leashed so he is crated from the moment you enter. (Hence the wheels)

Beyond what good information has been provided, I would seriously avoid travelling anywhere that requires connecting flights.

My aunt travelled (some years ago now) with her poodle - it got lost in the connection and was put on the wrong plane. She did manage to get the dog back a few days later, and the dog was fine, but it sure was upsetting.

And the time of year. Honestly, if its 105 degrees out in Nevada - that plane cargo area is very hot. I would never put my dog on a plane in extreme heat. Dogs have died.

PS: I openly admit I have not flown my dog - and won't. Good luck

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Dog owners, please give me your opinion on this GSD breeder in Australia (more infomration)!?

best dog kennel sydney image

James

Hey guys sorry for reposting but I'll keep my other question alive so you can still get two points for your contributions (by the way they were great answers).

This is the same breeder but with more information from "Australia's pure breed dog community" wesbite.

http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/member.asp?name=KASSAAR

Thank you for answering.
Verulam - yeah true but in the past I've done it before and most of the time people don't get back to me! :) but yes I'll certainly go pay the breeder a visit.

Jojo - thanks Jojo, I'll defiantly keep on researching other GSD breeders in my state.

Answer
Don't go thinking that "we aim for a good temperament" is the same as "our dogs ARE well-tempered". One of the studs they've used has a reputation for over-aggression (he is alleged to have tried to attack a person or pooch at something like a GSD National about 3 years ago; a friend bought a daughter of his and the pup tried, in the middle of a small town, to attack a person she was happy to be friendly with when at home - so the pup went back to the breeder, and apparently finished up with an unsuspecting pet-owner. At this year's NZ GSD National 2 of her siblings were graded Excellent, a dog by the same stud but from a different kennel was also graded Excellent).
And nowhere in your question is there anything about what YOU want to be able to do with your pooch. The GSD is the world's most versatile breed - but most pooches registered as GSDs are deviations from the International Standard of the GSD:
http://www.fci.be/uploaded_files/166g01-en-sv.doc
and far from versatile. So the parents & grandparents of the pup you choose MUST have qualifications that suit what you want.
Never forget that a kennel web-site is an ADVERTISEMENT. Would you choose between a Ford & a Holden by just what is in the Ford ads and what's in the Holden ads???

http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/german_shepherd_dog/search.html?q=+KASSAAR&index_in=All&results_in=25&dog_breed=german_shepherd_dog
will give your the photo-pedigrees of the 7 individuals currently listed in the pedigreedatabase
Typing KASSAAR into
http://www.rhosyngsd.com/modules.php
(which is purely for GSDs in Ozzie) will give you a bit of information about 5 of the GSDs in their first litter, 1 in their second litter.

My Queensland contacts have either dropped out of breeding or managed to escape into NSW (just as my maternal grandmother escaped from Tasmania to Sydney to NZ, and my f.i.l. and m.i.l. escaped from Queensland to NZ), and Kassaar didn't exist when I was keeping track of Ozzie kennels (I live on the better side of "the ditch"), so I can't tell you about the breeders, except that they seem to be rather new, have apparently abandoned their initial bloodline and moved on to importing a couple of pooches from Austria & Croatia and are mating them to popular noble-line studs.

The sire of my current pup: http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/dog.html?id=1325022 comes from WA.

I DON'T like it that the listings in the pedigreedatabase have not yet had any hip & elbow scores recorded, have not been Breed Surveyed, do not yet have any character or trainability certificates listed.
In Australia, GSDs cannot have litters registered UNLESS both patents have acceptable hip & elbow scores, and either have a haemophilia negative certificate or have a pedigree that was all Australian-bred from haemophilia-negative stock. Sons of imported bitches, and sons of daughters of imported bitches, have to get that haemophilia-negative clearance for themselves.
And only Breed Surveyed GSDs are eligible for an Excellent grading in Australia.

www.kassaar.com/ and www.kassaar.com/breeding/about.php show that they are a very commercial set-up (I prefer breeders to NOT make their living from pets, keeping their dogs as a hobby, not a retail business).

If there is a particular litter you are interested in, check out the hip & elbow statistics for the males in the litter's 3 or 4 generation pedigree (bitches rarely have enough xrayed offspring to be worth doing an analysis for, so the GSDCAu doesn't bother with bitches). It is the WORST score produced that is important. Click: http://www.gsdcouncilaustralia.org/entrypage.htm
hover over: GSDCA Schemes
and click on: Hip & Elbow Schemes
then do a lot of reading or scroll down to the set of hotlinks that take you to the results of the analyses

Add
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source/
to your browser, so that you can easily look up all sorts of information about dogs, especially GSDs.
Its first Message shows the information I require if I have to visit a breeder's web-site. Have you seen Kassaar's Guarantee and any Contract they require you sign?

To discuss GSDs, join some groups such as
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
The people in them KNOW about GSDs. Plus you can include actual photos in your posts, unlike the clunky mechanism that stingy Y!A provides.
If you want to read MY pup's escapades, and her misdeeds when I don't pay enough attention, search its Messages for "The Beagirl" and start from the oldest such message.

Max the real McCoy - first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968

Dog owners, please give me your opinion on this GSD breeder in Australia.?

James

I'll be buying a GSD sometime next year and currently looking for breeders, what attracted me to this breeder is that they aim to breed well tempered GSDs... which is what I'm after.

http://www.kassaar.com/breeding/index.php

Thank you for answering and visiting the site.
!There is no reason for Ignorance !call a vet! - oh at the top mate there's home, about, testimonials, breeding ect... you can select on one of those.
hey all I found them through this - http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/breeders/german-shepherd-dog.asp?state=QLD&Submit=Go

What do you think of this website?

Answer
Don't go thinking that "we aim for a good temperament" is the same as "our dogs ARE well-tempered". One of the studs they've used has a reputation for over-aggression (he is alleged to have tried to attack a person or pooch at something like a GSD National about 3 years ago; a friend bought a daughter of his and the pup tried, in the middle of a small town, to attack a person she was happy to be friendly with when at home - so the pup went back to the breeder, and apparently finished up with an unsuspecting pet-owner. At this year's NZ GSD National 2 of her siblings were graded Excellent, a dog by the same stud but from a different kennel was also graded Excellent).
And nowhere in your question is there anything about what YOU want to be able to do with your pooch. The GSD is the world's most versatile breed - but most pooches registered as GSDs are deviations from the International Standard of the GSD:
http://www.fci.be/uploaded_files/166g01-en-sv.doc
and far from versatile. So the parents & grandparents of the pup you choose MUST have qualifications that suit what you want.
Never forget that a kennel web-site is an ADVERTISEMENT. Would you choose between a Ford & a Holden by just what is in the Ford ads and what's in the Holden ads???

http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/german_shepherd_dog/search.html?q=+KASSAAR&index_in=All&results_in=25&dog_breed=german_shepherd_dog
will give your the photo-pedigrees of the 7 individuals currently listed in the pedigreedatabase
Typing KASSAAR into
http://www.rhosyngsd.com/modules.php
(which is purely for GSDs in Ozzie) will give you a bit of information about 5 of the GSDs in their first litter, 1 in their second litter.

My Queensland contacts have either dropped out of breeding or managed to escape into NSW (just as my maternal grandmother escaped from Tasmania to Sydney to NZ, and my f.i.l. and m.i.l. escaped from Queensland to NZ), and Kassaar didn't exist when I was keeping track of Ozzie kennels (I live on the better side of "the ditch"), so I can't tell you about the breeders, except that they seem to be rather new, have apparently abandoned their initial bloodline and moved on to importing a couple of pooches from Austria & Croatia and are mating them to popular noble-line studs.

The sire of my current pup: http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/dog.html?id=1325022 comes from WA.

I DON'T like it that the listings in the pedigreedatabase have not yet had any hip & elbow scores recorded, have not been Breed Surveyed, do not yet have any character or trainability certificates listed.
In Australia, GSDs cannot have litters registered UNLESS both patents have acceptable hip & elbow scores, and either have a haemophilia negative certificate or have a pedigree that was all Australian-bred from haemophilia-negative stock. Sons of imported bitches, and sons of daughters of imported bitches, have to get that haemophilia-negative clearance for themselves.
And only Breed Surveyed GSDs are eligible for an Excellent grading in Australia.

www.kassaar.com/ and www.kassaar.com/breeding/about.php show that they are a very commercial set-up (I prefer breeders to NOT make their living from pets, keeping their dogs as a hobby, not a retail business).

If there is a particular litter you are interested in, check out the hip & elbow statistics for the males in the litter's 3 or 4 generation pedigree (bitches rarely have enough xrayed offspring to be worth doing an analysis for, so the GSDCAu doesn't bother with bitches). It is the WORST score produced that is important. Click: http://www.gsdcouncilaustralia.org/entrypage.htm
hover over: GSDCA Schemes
and click on: Hip & Elbow Schemes
then do a lot of reading or scroll down to the set of hotlinks that take you to the results of the analyses

Add
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source/
to your browser, so that you can easily look up all sorts of information about dogs, especially GSDs.
Its first Message shows the information I require if I have to visit a breeder's web-site. Have you seen Kassaar's Guarantee and any Contract they require you sign?

To discuss GSDs, join some groups such as
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
The people in them KNOW about GSDs. Plus you can include actual photos in your posts, unlike the clunky mechanism that stingy Y!A provides.
If you want to read MY pup's escapades, and her misdeeds when I don't pay enough attention, search its Messages for "The Beagirl" and start from the oldest such message.

Max the real McCoy - first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968

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Anyone know how much it will cost to ship a 13pounds puppy from southern california to houston texas?

dog crates houston image

kevin

And if you could also lets me know where i could take my dog to, to ship it in southern califronia please.

Answer
CALL THE AIRLINES=ASK THE PROS!! All have free 800 numbers

A *MINIMUM* of $200 just for the fare..add another hundred PLUS-$200?- for taxes the crate,HEALTH cert.from the vet
Fees are based on size of crate *&* weight of dog & crate.

You GO TO THE AIRPORT!!!
duh

DONE it dozens of times-NOT guessing.

How do you fly a dog across the country, alone?

ty97

My brother needs to ship his dog from WV to TX, but my brother won't be flying. We know how he can get the dog home when he flies with him, but how do we 'ship' the dog?

Answer
If you contact the shipping departments of various airlines, they can help you. Contenental is a good one with shipping -- you can check the information on their website as that will give you an idea as to what is expected. Basically they have to have a veterinary health certificate within thirty days of shipping, they need to have a crate that the airlines like the size of -- one large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in - often you can buy them from the airlines but Walmart has them too and a little cheaper I think. You set up for who is going to recieve the dog - there has to be someone designated to recieve the dog. You have to set all this up and then get the dog to the shipping area of the airport fairly early before the flight - some of the airlines the recieving party can pick them up at the terminal and others they need to go to the cargo area. I can't recall but I think the dogs I have gotten in at the Dallas, San Antonio and Houston airports, I have usually gone to the cargo areas except with Delta - they had the dog at the office area in the terminal - they will be able to let you know about that though prior to shipping. It is more expensive shipping without being an accompanying dog so, depending upon size, he needs to check on cost and be ready to pay for it - no CODs or anything like that. There are usually restrictions with regards to weather/temperatures but now isn't a bad time and Contenental supposedly doesn't have these restrictions because they have climate controlled areas they keep the live animals - but check on it beforehand. Try to get straight through flights as well so that there isn't any mix up changing planes in Tinbucktoo or something. If he can drive to a large airport that has a straight through flight, or at least no change of planes but with a short stop somewhere, and ship to a large airport in TX with no changes - I think Houston is a primary for Continental, Dallas for American (wasn't terribly pleased with them) and can't remember San Antonio - maybe Continental too but certain flights I think... anyway, the shipping agents are usually VERY helpful with this so calling and talking to them is a good idea. Good luck!

BTW, I have never had to tranqualize a dog to ship them and wouldn't recommend it -- there is no one in the cargo area of the plane to watch and if they get into trouble with the tranquelizer, it could be dangerous. They will usually settle down in the crate, particularly if they are crate trained prior to shipping. I have just heard too many horror stories with tranquilizing animals for shipment.

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Does anyone have any suggestions for a dog with separation anxiety?

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The Referr

Is there anything that can be done for a dog who whines whenever he is left alone.

Answer
I have a great article with suggestions

Here are some things you can do to help.

Try to make your arrivals and departures very boring and low-key. Don't make a big fuss over saying hello and goodbye. Be very casual and up-beat.

Try to make interactions with your dog on your terms, not his. You pet him, treat him, or play with him when you want, and not when he asks for it.

Get your dog used to your getting-ready-to-leave cues, like picking up keys and jacket. Go through these actions repeatedly during the time when you're staying home, without actually leaving. If your dog has already learned to associate his fears with your departure cues, it will take a lot of repetitions before the dog will get it.

Give your dog more exercise. A tired dog is a good dog! A dog can sleep most of the day if he's tired enough. Most young dogs could use 20-100 minutes of full-speed running per day. Increase your dog's exercise. Don't forget mental exercise, like training, exploring new places, encountering new smells, and social interaction with other dogs. Taking your dog to a park where he can run and play with others may be crucial. (Find dog parks around San Jose here.)

Give your dog something to do while you're gone! What does your dog do all day- wait around for you to come home? Give your dog a hobby. Jean Donaldson calls the solution to a lot of dog problems "work-to-eat" programs. Stuff a Kong or a hollow prepared bone, fill up a Buster Cube or Roll-A-Treat, scatter the dog's food in the grass or hide several chew treats around the house (see the Merchandise page for a description of some of these items). A dog that is working for goodies is not barking or chewing, and a dog that is eating is not as stressed!

Don't draw attention to forbidden objects just before leaving - in other words, don't straighten up or point out the items that you don't want the dog to chew. Your dog might misinterpret your attention and give those objects his attention just because of it. In a similar way, punishing your dog afterwards for destruction he's done will probably not help - it will not reduce your dog's anxiety, show him a better way to deal with it, or give him an alternative behavior. He might not even connect the punishment with the action he did to cause the destruction. (Don't confuse a dog's "appeasement display", developed to stop threats of aggression, with a "guilty look" that implies a promise that your dog won't do it again. See the Body Language pages for more information.)

Consider crating your dog. Some dogs are more comfortable when confined to a small "den". Make sure your dog can "hold it" for as long as you need him to, and provide plenty of exercise so that his main activity in the crate is sleeping. You might just want to consider leaving your dog in one room (rather than giving him the run of the house), and maybe leaving a radio on and an article of clothing that smells like you in the next room. Warning: Some dogs are a lot less comfortable confined to a crate when alone. Make sure your dog is comfortable and secure.

Consider taking your dog to doggie daycare or to a friend's house (or to work or on errands with you), so that he is not actually alone, while you train your dog to deal with being alone. Remember, dogs are pack animals that want to be with others; being a "lone wolf" can be dangerous in the wild, as well as lonely. Note that for many dogs who have bonded strongly with people, having another dog (or other pet) around will not be sufficient.

How do I stop my dog from having accidents on rainy days?

Dan N

My adult 5 year old pit/lab mix refuses to go outside in the rain, and will sneak off and pee in the house while I am occupied (she waits until we're in the bathroom usually). If myself or my roommate wake up, she rushes to pee before we can even take her out - it seems in an attempt to avoid going outside. On any other day, she will hold it indefinitely. Only when its raining does she do this. HELP!

Answer
I have several small dogs who hate the rain, and its a battle when the rainy season starts.

I would crate your dog at night, leash her up and take her outside first thing in the morning, before she is allowed anywhere in the house.

I deliberately send my dogs outside several times a day when it is raining. I provide an area that is covered so they do not actually get rained on, and I stand at the door until each dog does what he/she is supposed to do. Only then is the dog allowed back in. It doesn't take long for them to figure out that peeing quickly means they will be able to get back inside quickly.

If you cannot provide some cover for your dog, get her a rain jacket and throw it on her before you put her outside. Then stand there and watch her until she does what she should.

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How do I stop my dogs chewing the wall?

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Lyn F

I have two dogs, one lakeland terrier and the other a staffy, they have loads of toys and play together, they go our for an hour long walk in the morning and when I go out for a couple of hours they have both been chewing the wall in the same place all the time, we are desparately trying to get the decorating finished but having to keep plastering the wall, any suggestions as to what we can put on it to stop them.

Answer
You can try spraying the spot with something called Bitter Apple Spray, it's a chew deterrent that tastes nasty to doggies. Also, provide more suitable chews for them - rawhide bones, cow hooves (they smell terrible, but the dogs love them...). If all else fails, you may have to crate them when you're gone. Check out craigslist - you could probably get 2 free or discounted crates just by posting an ad.

Good luck!

What do I need for a Siberian Husky?

Malzy

I have never had a dog before and I'm very excited. An acquaintance is selling me his dog and I wanna know what I should get for him. He has his dog crate and feeding bowls and a shedding brush thing. He is a Siberian Husky and is 1 year old. What do I need? A collar, a leash, shew toys, a kong, whatever it is please list what you give your husky. Also, what kind of food should I give him. I know it should be 2 cups a day one in the morning and one in the evening but what kind of food brands do you suggest. When should I take him out for exercise and when do your dogs normally poop? Right after food? Half an hour after food? I need some beginner help.

Answer
Huskies certainly are not good first time dogs and I recommend not even THINKING about taking this dog unless you can put 4-5 hours aside of your day to run with it. These, along with Border Collies and German Shepherds, are some of the most active breeds out there. You can't just walk them an hour and be done. They need LOTS of mental stimulation and physical exercise.

They need about three 1 hour walks a day along with other activities like swimming, fetch, agility, obedience, and many other activities. They are VERY good escape artists and you usually can't trust them off-leash. Most Huskies will take off whenever they have a chance and usually do not have a very good recall.

They need to be brushed every single day for about an hour. They DO howl when they're lonely and your neighbors won't be very keen on that. Don't get it if you don't plan on keeping it for the rest of its life. You can't just lock them in a cage when they are excited and need exercise.

They need lots of training and rules for them to be stable.

Some things you will need are:
Collar
Leash
ID Tag
Crate
Bed
Grooming Supplies
Harness

For food, really, the best food you could feed your dog would be a Prey-Model-Raw (PMR) diet. No veggies, no fruit, no grains, and no dairy products. Just 80% meat, 10% bone, 5% liver, and 5% other organs. It's fresh, healthy, natural, and species appropriate. Much better than preservative filled processed kibble from a plastic bag. The meat and organs has all the nutrients and the bone provides calcium and strengthens the stomach wall. If you're resourceful, feeding a raw diet is cheap and very affordable. I used to spend $200 a month on premium kibble and now I only spend $30 or less on PMR. The key is to find cheap meat from sales, scraps from hunters, culls and stillborns from farmers, old and freezer-burnt meat from friends, and you could post an ad on craigslist for unwanted raw meat. Any wild meat should be frozen for 3-4 weeks before feeding. Be sure to research this diet before feeding it! Good luck!!!!

https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/22532â¦
http://rawfed.com/
http://preymodelraw.com/


For exercise, you need to walk them in the morning, afternoon, and evening. He is a bit older so you can take him outside about 1 hour after eating to poop/pee.

Good luck with your dog!!

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Can a bunny live in a dog's kennel?

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claudia

Can you keep a small rabbit in a dog kennel, one designed for outside, if you made necessary alterations?

Answer
It would depend on how big the dog kennel is! Also, you would need to make sure the rabbit had access to grass.

Is it okay to kennel a cat?

Brooke

My cat has diabetes and is having some problems with missing the litter box. To avoid trashing the carpet in our apartment we have thought about kenneling him with his litter box and food in a large dog kennel. Of course, we would only do this when we are not at home. Anyone know if this is okay to do with a cat?

Answer
Most cats should adjust ok. Just make sure that if you use a kennel it is for an extra large sized dog. This will give him enough space to put his litter box further away from his food. Also it will give you enough room to give him a makeshift hammock or shelf to hang out a little higher up. To a cat this increases visual square footage. "Midwest" also makes a cat playpen that is designed similar to that of a ferret cage with many levels. It is taller than it is wide so you wont use as much floor space ...you can easily put a hammock in there for him too. You can buy a large sized ferret hammock and that will work too. It sounds like you are going to have to deal with this for the rest of his life so I would suggest that you invest in a good product to give you extended usage.

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How do I get my dog to obey my roommate too?

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Gwendolyn

My dog listens to me; he does not listen to my roommate. He's always jumping on her, nipping at her clothes as she walks by, stealing her food and being generally a pain.

As far as discipline goes, my roommate and I are doing the same things. The only clue I have is that I'm the one who feeds, walks and goes to obedience classes with him. I spend a lot of time with him but I don't play and rough-house with him like my roommate does (who, I'm gathering, he sees as a giant playmate).

She's getting frusterated and I'm tired of being the referee. How can I get him to see her as a pack leader too?

(also, he's a 1 year old, 50 plus pound mixed breed who is walked 3 times a day and never crated for more than 4 hours at a time during the weekday)

Answer
First I would try to have your roommate go to the obediance clalsses with you. She would need to participate in some of the exercises with your dog while you sit back and watch. Also- have her feed the dog for a few days. She can even hand feed the dog (morsel by morsel) until the dog understands that she also is in charge.

Basically the dog thinks he is alpha and above her. He isn't going to lsiten to someone he doesn't view as his owner as well. If your roommate acts as the food-keeper, disciplinary person for a few days to a week, most of your problems should be resolved.

What breed of dog should I get if I have a small child?

Expecting

I have a 4 years old daughter, and my husband and I really want to get a dog. We never had a dog before and we live in an apartment in a city - its a very large apartment though. I am nto sure what breed we should get. I know it should probably be a small dog, but do you have more suggestions?

Answer
What it really boils down to is the individual dog. Ideally you want a dog that's been raised with kids and has proven himself/herself to be good with them. You could also get a puppy to raise with your kids but it'll be a lot of work and you'd need to be prepared for training classes for basic obedience, working on training at home, housebreaking, crate training, teaching the dog what's appropriate to chew on and what's not, etc. Be prepared to have your workload around the house increase doublefold if you get a puppy.

Medium sized dogs tend to be a better choice than other sized dogs. Small dogs (chihuahuas, papillions, etc.) can frequently become overwhelmed with the activity level of children to the point they feel threatened and think they need to defend themselves. Giant breeds (saint bernard, mastiff, etc.) can be great with kids but problems may arise simply because of the massive size of the dog and the small size of the child - giant dogs can inadvertantly harm children. However, there are always exceptions to rules. I think your best bet would be to check out your local humane society or www.petfinder.com and look for some dogs available for adoption. Responsible humane societies perform behavior assessments of their dogs and would require that the dog meet your children before bringing it home to ensure that everyone gets along. You may also be able to find a dog through an owner who needs to rehome theirs, however, it's important to be aware that not every owner will be completely truthful and there's always the possibility of an owner fibbing about their dog's behavior so they can get rid of it easier (i.e. you ask, "Has the dog ever shown aggression towards a child?" and they respond, "No" even though their dog has growled or nipped at a kid.)

Don't forget that it's important to teach your kids how to treat dogs with respect. Children should not be allowed to tease or provoke the dog. Also, no matter how well-behaved of a dog you get it's important not to leave your 4 year old with the dog unsupervised.

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taking a dog along moving?

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Kathy

My parents are devorcing and i have a dog that i have been with for 4 years and i really don't want to sell him or leave him behide, he means alot to me and my brother, but I want to move to ontario to live snice calgary is bring bad memories and bad times.
can i bring my dog along with me, but on the plane? and what would be need to done and how much would it be

Answer
You need to check with your airline. With summer coming up, Continental will be the only airline accepting dogs as cargo. If the dog is small enough, you will be charged a fee to carry it on board as a carry on. Not all airlines allow this though, so you will need to call ahead of time.

To ship any animal, you will need a health certificate current to within 10 days as well as shot records, a kennel large enough for the dog to stand up and turn a circle in without hitting the sides or top, and a couple hundred bucks for the expenses.

Tips?!! Adivce?!!? i really need help!!?

Dragongirl

Hi, we are having ALOT of problems at home between our dogs. We have: 11 year old spayed female pit bull - K-C
6 year old female spayed female border collie mix - Tippy
4 year old intact female great Pyrenees mix - Izzy
9 month old Maltipoo intact male (for sale) - Billy
4 month old male red heeler intact.- Rocky

My dogs are Rocky and K-C. My moms dogs are Billy, Izzy and tippy.
The 1st problem is that Tippy constantly growls, if the other dogs walk by her kennel her food, when she is laying down and they go around her, if the is getting petted or even just walk in the room she will put her head down and growl. My mom lets her get away with this and wont say anything, she will even go as far as biting K-C heels when she walks, what Tippy does this K-C bites back at her, when mom breaks up the fight she yells at my dog for attacking her, and while mom yells at my dog Tippy keeps biting her heels.

2nd problem: Billy grabs all the bones in the house and puts them on the couch. When Rocky wants one, he will attack and bite his nose, Billy Takes them right from Rockys mouth. When Rocky Growls at Billy, mom yells at him. But then she does nothing when the little dog bites my dog.

Problem 3: The great pyrannes has proved herself un trust worthy around animals as she has killed a little dog and killed a cat, both of whom she knew for years. Yet, mom still insists she is "harmless"



None of moms dogs are obidiance trained, leash trained or have had ANY socalization. They growl at people and attack other dogs, and they are either inside in a kennel or outside in a kennel.

My dogs have formal obidiance and have CGC and other awards. The pupps is still learning. They come to calgary and have been from coast to coast and from north canada to florida.

Please help.
32 minutes ago - 4 days left to answer.
Additional Details
Billy is from a puppy mill. My mom tries to rescue dogs. I dont agree with it. It causes problems. That is how she got her 3 dogs. Both of mine came from good breeders.

Im not a bad owner.
24 minutes ago

I take care of my dogs, 2 4 hour walks a day. Raw diet, lots of attention.
Mom doesnt do anything with my dogs. I dont do anything with her dogs.

its not my fault her dogs are the way they are.
please no rude answers. If you must state your opinion, please do so in a respectful manner
I cant have my heeler neutered. the breeder we got him from has rights to breed him etc. As well as the herding club wont let a neutered male/female in the group.

Answer
If your mother doesn't obedience train the dogs she rescues, then she's not doing any of them, or your dogs a favor.

I'm sorry to hear you chose to buy a dog where you aren't allowed to spay the dog. In your situation, this isn't a good home for that dog as he'll learn more bad habits than good habits and that will make any pups he parents less desirable.

You cannot change your mother from what you say, so your best bet is to move out on your own.

There's something drastically wrong if a pyr kills an animal she's been friends with for 6 years. She could have a brain tumor or some other serious problem. She needs a serious vet check. All your mom's dogs need obedience training, but from what you say, your mom won't do what is right and be a strong, loving, alpha pack leader. You can be that for your own dogs and try to undo the bad influence.

I recommend you see if you can get on either the Cesar Millan or Victoria Stillwell show. They could help you AND your mother.

Good luck with your difficult situation. -!-

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