Sabtu, 21 Juni 2014

EXTRA SMALL dog crates?




Emma L


I have a new 8 week old chihuahua and am looking for a crate that is about 12" long, 8" wide, and 10" tall. Does anyone know where I can find one for a somewhat affordable price??


Answer
Get a crate for your dog's adult size, not the puppy size. You'll save money that way. Many crates come with a divider so the puppy can be contained in a smaller area, then as the dog grows, the divider is removed.
Example: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753745

If you want a plastic crate and can't find them small enough in the dog section, look in the cat section. (My dogs have cat crates and cat beds. The size is right and for some reason cat stuff is often cheaper than dog stuff.)
.

Where can I buy a LARGE indoor dog crate for a decent price??




Jen


I have two large dogs that like to sleep together where can I purchase a crate (kennel) for them??


Answer
Try searching sites like e-bay- with two large dogs you may want to look at getting an XXL crate. There are a TON of different crate options on there and if you dont mind it being a wire crate you'll end up spending just over 100$ on the crate including shipping.




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Was this dog abused at a boarding program?




Karen


Long story bear with me.
My best friend has a 1 year old boxer who is rambunctious. The dog likes to jump on people mainly to play and lick you but she can actually knock you down. Its difficult to walk her since she loves to run fast instead of walking. She doesn't bite but since she is a big boxer her playfulness comes across to a stranger as an attack. My friend knew that it was best to get her trained. She hired this guy and his plan to train her was do a 2 week boarding program that is followed up with private lessons her house. Now when she came back the dog seemed different. The follow up private lesson worked well and the dog obeyed command of sit and no. But she still had the habit of jumping up on people. She called the trainer and he said that she needed to be firm. He took her again for another boarding training this time for one week. When he brought her back I saw the dog a little skinnier and a little mopey. I sensed something off and more so that dog seemed aggressive when at the sound of loud voices. Especially if the voice is of a man. Even the sight of other dogs she started barking and jumping around more that usual.
I was at my friends house feeding the dog because my friend was running late and the trainer was coming over to check on progress and to determine if she needed more training. When the trainer rang the door bell the dog went towards the door ( door has glass window top to bottom) I don't know if saw him or smelled him and she just jumped towards the door very aggressively and broke one of the windows and started barking like crazy Almost as if she was going to attack him. The trainer calmed her down and spoke to her sternly and she sunk down.
Now I have never seem this very odd to me. I relayed this story to a coworker and he said it sounded like he might be training her to be in a dog fights. I told my friend I was concerned about her dog. And we looked for signs of physical abuse but haven't seen anything. Its just her behavior is odd. Any one have a clue? Is this type of training program normal even?



Answer
I answered a question about sending dogs away to be trained. And thank you for proving my point.

Most "professional" trainers don't have time to properly train your dogs with positive methods, and then proof them with corrections...so they skip the positive teaching phase and jump right into Koehler style yank and crank corrections training. SO what you end up with is a dog who comes home fearful, hand shy, or fear aggressive.

As far as her being used in dog fights, your friend is an idiot. What the heck does a dog being scared of the guy have to do with dog fights? Are there you know...100 bite marks on her? If not, what the heck makes her think the dog has been fought? Another example of somebody talking and not making any sense....

So now that that stupidity is out of the way, lol. The problem here is, this dog has had this guy herk and jerk her around and force her through a makeshift boot camp style obedience program that she's too weak minded to handle. It may have worked on a bunch of 2-5 year old working dogs destined to be Military Working Dogs, but that kind of harsh training on a bubbly boxer was obviously too much. NEVER send your dog off to be trained. No good trainer in the planet accepts fly ins or even drive ins to train. They'll work with you and show you how to work your dog along. You may be able to pay for group classes and get taught things step by step, or even better, personal lessons and learn new things to teach your dog and old problems to work up on every week. No real trainer will train your dog for you. I may pre-train a dog and sell it, but guess what, you're going to have to learn how to handle it, and if at all possible come here for a few days and walk through the training and timing of different things.

The dog technically hasn't been abused, but your friend's pockets have been...she's been duped by Hank & Hals You Bring 'em and We'll String 'em!!!

Mitt Romney used to put his dog in a carrier on top of his car for long trips?




Pedro


It was a full size dog, but he said it was happy up on top of the car for a 12 hour trip. Does this make sense if the carrier is securely attached, or is it a bad idea?


Answer
With the dog on the roof, the luggage must have been INSIDE the station wagon. Why would you prioritize that way? Because you knew from prior experience that your dog was a poor traveler that would vomit or have diarrhea. So if you cared about your dog, you would leave it home with a petsitter, friend, or family member, or else board it - unless you were too cheap to put your dog's comfort ahead of the padding in your wallet.

In addition to the discomfort of the wind rushing past, dehydrating and chilling the dog, who would be sufficiently confident that the straps would hold? If a suitcase falls off the roof rack, it's a problem and a potential traffic hazard; if the crate falls off, it's a dead or seriously injured panicked dog and a far more serious hazard to other drivers.

When this incident was in the news the first time, Romney supporters pointed to it as proof that he is unflappable and resourceful. What it proves to me is that he lacks the ability to empathize with the suffering of others, and puts his own desires first.




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Jumat, 20 Juni 2014

Introducing Guinea Pigs?

Q. I just got 2 guinea pigs from a rescue yesterday. They are 6 and 8 weeks old and they are both males.
They are currently together in a large dog crate (but will be moved to a large pen once they settle).
They have had a couple of arguments already, but I figure they are just establishing dominance.
There's a bit of chasing and some teeth baring, and they fight occasionally (very mild, no blood drawn). LOTS of teeth chattering and threatening squeals, but they've only been together less than 24 hours so it's to be expected.

I have another guinea pig who is 5 years old. He has never lived with another guinea pig but has had a few play dates (didn't really get along with the friends).

I would like to have all 3 of them live together at some point but I'm not sure how to introduce them.
I've only found information on introducing 2 mature guinea pigs.

I also wonder, should I wait for the babies to establish temselves with eachother before introducing them to Grizzly? or should I just throw them all in together and let them sort it out as a group.

I would do all of this after 2-3 weeks of quarantine of course.

Here is a brief description of their personalities that I've goten so far.
Grizzly 5 and a half years old- He's very mellow and relatively quiet, unless he wants something. He sleeps a lot and LOVES to explore the house and cuddle.

Cooper, 8 weeks old- He is VERY bold. I've had him less than 24 hours and he's always taking food out of my hand and if I'm sitting very still he'll come right up to me, he will take off if I move an inch, but that's totally natural for now. Loves to be held and will purr and snuggle.

Remington, 6 weeks old- He's very very vocal and relatively skittish. He hides a lot but will come out if I'm not moving. He LOVES treats, he gets very excited and drags them all over to throws them in in the air with. He's fine being held, as long as you don't move. If you're just holding him against you he doesn't care but don't try to move your hand cause he'll squirm and try to run.

Any help would be GREAT!
I actually have a brand new HUGE pen (like a puppyplay pen) that I'll be moving all 3 of them in to, that's way no one is invading anybody, cause I know that can cause some issues.

I don't think Grizzly will get too bad, he will probably just be like "i'm the boss man, hear me roar!" and just be like a strict grandpa or something.

The 2 babies I'm more concerned with, I don't want them hurting eachother.

Should I put them with Griz one at a time?
Or just throw everyone together and hope everything works out?


Answer
Try putting Grizzly into the other cage in a few day's time. Then Grizzly won't feel like they're invading his territory. When they've calmed down together put all three into Grizzly's cage. I'm sure they'll be fine. Good luck :-) By the way I'm glad you're saving lives by adopting guinea pigs from a rescue centre

Guinea Pig Introductions, HELP!?

Q. Already asked this but in the wrong section:

I just got 2 guinea pigs from a rescue yesterday. They are 6 and 8 weeks old and they are both males.
They are currently together in a large dog crate (but will be moved to a large pen once they settle).
They have had a couple of arguments already, but I figure they are just establishing dominance.
There's a bit of chasing and some teeth baring, and they fight occasionally (very mild, no blood drawn). LOTS of teeth chattering and threatening squeals, but they've only been together less than 24 hours so it's to be expected.

I have another guinea pig who is 5 years old. He has never lived with another guinea pig but has had a few play dates (didn't really get along with the friends).

I would like to have all 3 of them live together at some point but I'm not sure how to introduce them.
I've only found information on introducing 2 mature guinea pigs.

I also wonder, should I wait for the babies to establish temselves with eachother before introducing them to Grizzly? or should I just throw them all in together and let them sort it out as a group.

I would do all of this after 2-3 weeks of quarantine of course.

Here is a brief description of their personalities that I've goten so far.
Grizzly 5 and a half years old- He's very mellow and relatively quiet, unless he wants something. He sleeps a lot and LOVES to explore the house and cuddle.

Cooper, 8 weeks old- He is VERY bold. I've had him less than 24 hours and he's always taking food out of my hand and if I'm sitting very still he'll come right up to me, he will take off if I move an inch, but that's totally natural for now. Loves to be held and will purr and snuggle.

Remington, 6 weeks old- He's very very vocal and relatively skittish. He hides a lot but will come out if I'm not moving. He LOVES treats, he gets very excited and drags them all over to throws them in in the air with. He's fine being held, as long as you don't move. If you're just holding him against you he doesn't care but don't try to move your hand cause he'll squirm and try to run.

Any help would be GREAT!
I'm not in the US unfortunately, I'm in Canada :(


Answer
well, i coaxed my two guinea pigs (both girls though) into living together gradually. first i had two separate cages for them that i placed side by side. then i had "sessions" in which I'd put them both in one place for about 20-30 minutes at a time, just so they'd get used to each other, but with me watching of course. I increased these sessions until finally i put them in one cage after 2 weeks or so. They never got snuggly or anything, but they were civil, they interacted fine. :)




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Where can I find an indistructable dog crate?

Q. Our dog, a lab mix under 50lbs, has managed to go through 3 crates in the last 4 years. The first two were wire crates like this... http://www.pet-super-store.com/html/simple-store-dog-crate.html. On those she tore up the bottom plastic pan and pulled in and bent the wires on the sides and door. The last one was a plastic one like this... http://www.pet-super-store.com/html/canine-champion-pet-crate.html. On that one she eventually managed to chew a huge hole through the part just under the door and squeeze herself through the hole. I'm tired of buying dogs crates one right after another and am looking for one that will hold up to her destructive powers a little bit better. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
hmm... I'll try different links...

wire one- http://www.dogkennelsandcrates.com/Majestic-Pet-Titan-Double-Door-Folding-Wire-Crate.html

plastic one- http://www.dogkennelsandcrates.com/Kennel-Aire-Plastic-Dog-Crate-40-L-x-28-W-x-30-H-Almond.html

-and I know the difference, just hoping someone with the same experience has found something that works for them.
While I appreciate people responding it would also be helpful if people read the whole post... I'm not looking for just any old dog crate. I've already tried the ones I posted links for and they don't work for us. I'm looking for something more heavy duty.


Answer
You can Google some gun-dog supply stores, many have very heavy duty crates, but they are expensive.

Here's one:
http://northcoastpets.com/crates_heavy_duty.htm

The only other concern with a heavy duty crate is that she may not be able to break out, but will she injure herself trying to get out?

How about this- don't fall over at the price:
http://www.kustomkrates.com/products/single_dog_crates/SingleDogCrates.shtml

My roommates Kylie and Jess dared me to let them padlock me in this heavy duty dog cage/crate they have before?




Caitlin


they leave for work. She bet me 50 dollars I couldn't get out of It before they got home. I think I could. Are my odds good that I could get out or not. It's metal etc. but as Ive said before I'm 145 5'8" and in shape.

Relisted because I didnt really get any good answers.



Answer
You say your room mates so I'm guessing your in your 20s? I would have assumed by now that dares were a bit below you. But my mum's dog has a lightway dog cage for her pup and it does get out of that. Saying this it's a skinny thing and it's a poor cage. I personally wouldn't do it. But if you decide to make sure your in site of the tv and have the remote in there because you could be in for a long wait.




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traveling with my dog?




Spicatt


i am taking my dog with me to Bahrain from denver and we going to have to take 2 different airlines ,, is there different fees for both of them or i have to pay it once only ? how long before i leave i should reserve ticket for him and do i reserve the ticket " way back " at the same time too ?


Answer
Hello,

Yes you should definatly book your Dog's flight along with yours, especially if you are planning on taking him/her on board with you. There is a weight limit if you are doing this usually between 15-20 lbs per dog with soft crate. The airlines only allow a certain amount of dogs on board so it is better to get the ticket earlier and it should only be about $50 per trip, not both transfers. Call ASAP and book to make sure you get the tickets.

Another note, if you are putting your dog in cargo please I cannot emphasis this enough, make sure your dog has plenty of water and before the plane leaves ask the airline what other materials the plane is traveling with in cargo. This could be very dangerous for dogs and only in an emergency should you travel with a larger dog that you have to place in cargo. If you have to wait as long as you can to give them your dog so that he/she is in cargo for the least amount of time and make that your first priority once you get off. Since you are taking a transfer also make sure that your dog will be transferred with you.

Its not easy traveling with a dog as I have done it in the past but once you get to your destination what better to have with you than your trusty companion.

Enjoy your trip and please read up more about pet travel on the web and with your individual carrier.

Dog going to the bathroom indoors?




David H


We have had the dog for 2 years now and have crate trained her, puppy pads, etc. nothing seems to work. We leave pads out and she won't use them. We can't put her in the crate since she escapes (bends the cage doors and goes out butt first) and she also licks the locks rusting them. She is 50 lbs. pit bull/german shepard mix.

We bought a steam cleaner, but does anyone have any suggestions for getting her to use the pads more often? We take her out at 6:30 AM and are home at 5:00 everyday since we all work.

Appreciate the help.



Answer
Have someone come over and take her out during the day. That's a really long time for a dog to be left alone and have to hold it, especially since it sounds young. Make sure that she gets long walks, since both of those breeds are extremely athletic and need a lot of excersise and mental stimulation.

If I lived in your area I'd totally walk her for you O;




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How does crate training work?

Q. I have a bichon frise and I am trying to housebreak her. My friend said to use crate training. What is and how do you do "crate training"?


Answer
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.


A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.


Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.


We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.


Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.


Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.


Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.

In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone


Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:


The pup is too young to have much control.

The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.

The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.

The pup has worms.

The pup has gaseous or loose stools.

The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.

The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.

The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)

The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.


Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.


Crating Duration Guidelines

9-10 Weeks
Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks
Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks
Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks
Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)


*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)


The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]


Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.


Barking In The Crate

In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.


When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.

s/he is vomiting.

you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
(See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)

the temperature is excessively high.

s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

Is a miniature pincher a good dog?




champ111





Answer
The Miniature Pinscher is not truly a good dog for a novice, one who truly has little experience with dogs.
They are one of the oldest of the Terriers and not truly a toy breed.
Created as a feral dog as feral cats are today. They were bred to be free thinking and independent of human intervention to survive on vermin they ferreted and live in barns. Many misunderstand the independent nature and assume they are "stubborn" but in fact they are not. They are being what they were bred to be, intelligent and independent.
Never a first or even a second dog for anyone as they are extremely high energy and require a securely fenced yard to run in and exercise. Failing to allow for the exercising causes the breed to be destructive and end result will chew and tear into furniture, carpet, walls etc. Not to mention they will not allow you much sleep at nite. Rated the 3rd worst breed for apartments, due primarily to their instinctive nature to guard they will bark at anything they deem a threat. They do not do well with over handling. End result is they are not a natural lap dog nor tolerate being physically forced whether picked up or handled at all. This leads to the issue of nipping and eventually biting. They are not good with children primarily for the reasons mentioned. Children like to grab and hold. Miniature Pinschers are not tolerant of this. They are extremely difficult to house train. In most cases they never achieve total house training. In addition, training in general is difficult since they breed was bred to be free thinking it will try even the most experienced dog persons patience. Recall, is near impossible if the dog gets loose as it is a sight dog and reacts to anything that moves quickly. At that point it assumes it is prey and the hunt is on. Daily walks are never enough exercise for this breed and one should never assume so. To answer your question, yes only if you have had serious time working with breeds of this nature and have a total understanding of Terriers. Otherwise, no it is not a good breed. They need to be literally watched all the time as prone to getting into trouble. They need to be crate trained early to avoid issues when not at home. Extremely inquisitive they find ways to get up on things such as counter tops, kitchen tables etc. They will also show no fear in most cases when it comes to other breeds especially larger ones. They can often attack larger objects thus are prone to getting hurt.
Other issues include patella luxation, leggs perthes, premature ocular degeneration (early blindness). Prone to overeating they are subject of diabetes as well as epilepsy.
They are soley the product of crossing a smooth coated Dachshund with an Italian Greyhound. They are a member of the Deutscher (German) Pinscher family of dogs which includes the Affenpinscher, Doberman's pinscher, Schnauzers and German Pinscher.




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does anyone know of a good kennel in philadelphia or southern new jersey?




warriors28


Also, is five months too young to leave a puppy


Answer
Here is a directory site for New Jersey and Philadelphia;

http://new-jersey.uscity.net/Kennels/
http://www.insiderpages.com/s/PA/Philadelphia/Kennels

As for leaving a puppy of 5months ~ depends on what you mean by "leave?"

Are you going out of town for a couple days? Or just away from the home for couple hours?

If your going out of town for a couple days and need to kennel ~ be sure you research the kennel service thoroughly; ask questions, if they have a website check it out, ask for references, be sure you provide the dog w/a safe haven ~ his/her crate, toys, and blanket.

You can also call the SPCA and inquiry on services thru them, if they do not provide those type of services in your area use them as a resources find out who does and who they recommend....

Aggressive dog boarding in NJ?




Anonymous


Does anyone know of any boarding or kennel facilities in New Jersey that allow aggressive dogs to board? I've heard that there are some that allow the dogs to be in indoor and outdoor (through a pet door) run where staff wouldn't have to come in contact with the aggressive animals, but I never found one yet in NJ looking through the internet. If anyone knows of one, please let me know!

Thanks!



Answer
Most boarding facilities won't take dogs with known aggression problems. The liability for their employees is just too high. If the dog got sick or injured, there would still be situations where they would need to handle it. And they need to be able to secure the runs for cleaning without coming in contact with the dog, which requires a special kennel arrangement.

I think you will have a hard time finding one.




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Dog kennel questions?




Lozfan


Okay, so I'm facing a dilemma here.

First, I'm looking for dog kennel fencing that is both reasonably priced and the right size dimensions. My golden retriever lives in a 10'x7' kennel right now in our breezeway. I would really like to get him a kennel with more space to run, but we don't have much space back there. Long story short, I need a kennel that is 20'x10'.

Second, what on earth can I use for flooring? We have wood now, but it collects bacteria and holds water way too much. I have no idea how to pour concrete, but I want something that is durable and easy to clean. Is there some kind of plastic or something I can buy for a reasonable price?

Please answer one or both of these questions if you can. I've already searched the web and can't find much, so give personal experience if you can. And by the way, I prefer not to spend more than $1,500 on the project if possible. Thanks =D
No offense Marie P, and Marlene but the words "lives in a 10'x7' kennel" does not mean he stays outside 24/7. My golden is a living creature, so he kind of "lives" wherever he goes. He's outside probably 4-5 hours a day when no one is at home. There's no need to assume everyone is an irresponsible pet owner.



Answer
I would try posting what you are looking for on Craigslist. Also, the best thing besides cement that you can use for flooring is patio blocks. You can easly clean up the poop and hose off/disinfect them. Some people will say pea gravel, but I have two problems with that. Number one is that each time you shovel the poop, you are also getting rid of some of the gravel, and number 2 is that the dog can actually eat the gravel and end up with a blockage.

Dog kennels in Indiana?




Kpop lover


I live in Indiana. I was trying to find a kennel for my dog to stay at for a few months until I can move into a larger house. I'm in the process of moving. But I can't seem to find any that tell me the prices. I'm willing to still go walk her and feed her everyday. I'm just trying to find a place she can stay overnight for a few months. :/ thanks for any help


Answer
Look in you local phone book under boarding kennels.
We can't answer this, because this is a world wide web and we are from all over the world.
Ask a family member to watch your dog, because boarding could cost you a ton of money.
And is safer also.




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What would make your life easier?




woo





Answer
About $3 million in the bank would do me.

I just need enough to live in a secluded house in the beauty of nature away from random noises.

I need enough to be able to market my books to agents with no worries about travel costs.

I need enough to pay for my Plavix which the Fed government has decided not to help me out with, thanks a bunch you pathetic VA!

I wish I could afford a dog ( a belgian shepard)

I also want a Remington 700 Titanium, just for old times sake, and to keep intruders away from my house in the woods. I'll take a custom Zeiss scope with that please, and also a pair of motorola night vision goggles, thanks -- you could ship it all in one box -- save shipping.

Also a crate of Maine lobsters about once a year, just six, would be fine.

Come on, be a pet, make my life easier!

Introducing Guinea Pigs?

Q. I just got 2 guinea pigs from a rescue yesterday. They are 6 and 8 weeks old and they are both males.
They are currently together in a large dog crate (but will be moved to a large pen once they settle).
They have had a couple of arguments already, but I figure they are just establishing dominance.
There's a bit of chasing and some teeth baring, and they fight occasionally (very mild, no blood drawn). LOTS of teeth chattering and threatening squeals, but they've only been together less than 24 hours so it's to be expected.

I have another guinea pig who is 5 years old. He has never lived with another guinea pig but has had a few play dates (didn't really get along with the friends).

I would like to have all 3 of them live together at some point but I'm not sure how to introduce them.
I've only found information on introducing 2 mature guinea pigs.

I also wonder, should I wait for the babies to establish temselves with eachother before introducing them to Grizzly? or should I just throw them all in together and let them sort it out as a group.

I would do all of this after 2-3 weeks of quarantine of course.

Here is a brief description of their personalities that I've goten so far.
Grizzly 5 and a half years old- He's very mellow and relatively quiet, unless he wants something. He sleeps a lot and LOVES to explore the house and cuddle.

Cooper, 8 weeks old- He is VERY bold. I've had him less than 24 hours and he's always taking food out of my hand and if I'm sitting very still he'll come right up to me, he will take off if I move an inch, but that's totally natural for now. Loves to be held and will purr and snuggle.

Remington, 6 weeks old- He's very very vocal and relatively skittish. He hides a lot but will come out if I'm not moving. He LOVES treats, he gets very excited and drags them all over to throws them in in the air with. He's fine being held, as long as you don't move. If you're just holding him against you he doesn't care but don't try to move your hand cause he'll squirm and try to run.

Any help would be GREAT!
I actually have a brand new HUGE pen (like a puppyplay pen) that I'll be moving all 3 of them in to, that's way no one is invading anybody, cause I know that can cause some issues.

I don't think Grizzly will get too bad, he will probably just be like "i'm the boss man, hear me roar!" and just be like a strict grandpa or something.

The 2 babies I'm more concerned with, I don't want them hurting eachother.

Should I put them with Griz one at a time?
Or just throw everyone together and hope everything works out?


Answer
Try putting Grizzly into the other cage in a few day's time. Then Grizzly won't feel like they're invading his territory. When they've calmed down together put all three into Grizzly's cage. I'm sure they'll be fine. Good luck :-) By the way I'm glad you're saving lives by adopting guinea pigs from a rescue centre




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Kamis, 19 Juni 2014

average size, and costs for dog crates?




dumdeedoo


what are the average size and cost for a crate? i have a yorkshire terrier. only around 3 pounds.


Answer
A crate that is around 22 inches long is a good size for a Yorkie and will cost around $25 - $70 for this size.

Make sure the dog has enough room to stand up, turn around and stretch out.

You can do a google search for a used small dog crate and check at www.craigslist.org

Where can I find a good dog crate for not so much money?




Robin


From Craigslist? Garage sale?
I need a crate for a 90 lbs. dog.
The pet store has one for 70$ and Im trying to beat that price!
Thanks!



Answer
Sure, you could try Craigslist or garage sales, but if you buy one used, make sure you bleach it before use. Honestly, $70.00 is not a bad price for a new one for a dog that size.




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Looking for a wire dog kennel with 2 doors that open and lie flat against the kennel?




audreywill


I am looking for a wire dog kennel with:

1. These dimensions: 30W x 21D x 24H
2. At least 2 doors.
3. Doors that open and lie flat on top of the kennel to conserve space.

The standard kennels with a swing open door are very inconvenient. I found a kennel like I wanted at one place, but I can't remember where, and I'm sure I could buy it much cheaper online. I've tried several different search terms; however, I'm not having much luck finding it. Please help! :)

Thanks!
Except, if you read the whole post, you'd know that I've already found one like it, I just can't seem to find another. :) They do make them. The one I found did not "swing" open, it slid upward and latched on top.
Similar to this: http://www.1800petmeds.com/Travel+Lite+Wire+Dog+Crate-prod60822.html only this is a little pricier.
It lies flat. That's the description.
Hence the use of "similar" not "exactly".



Answer
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Doghealth-super-strong-door-cage/dp/B003AOFQJ8

Not sure where you are but this proves theyo make them in that size. but ican't see how thy can have more than one "up and over door". The one above has one up and over and two conventional doors

General cost of keeping a dog (UK)?




Snub_16


Im going to get a staffordshire bull terrier puppy soon. I'll be buying it when its around 6-8 weeks old. I know the actual dog is going to cost around £400. But what about other costs? Shots and jabs? and anyone who has a staff, how much do you spend on food a week? Thanks in advance.


Answer
I have 3 dogs and for my big husky lab his puppy shots were 79.00 each session there 3 session's..Year shots are 80.00.His food is 15.00 every 3-4 weeks..His collars and leash's were 40-45.00.His treats are 5-10.00 every 2 weeks..Also if you put him into training classes they ran us 140.00 for 5 weeks His kennel for a big dog is 60.00-70.00 for a good one.. They are just like children..U also have to make sure you have the money to take to vet when sick or hurt..Depends on what is wrong it can run from 50.00-300-400.00




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Where can I buy cheap xxl dog crates ?




Dinorah


I'm looking for a cheap large dog crate like for a Great Dane , to be able to keep my dog inside when the weather is bad , she uncontrollable in the house , only goes in when the weather is bad , anyone know ?


Answer
Tractor Supply here has dog crates of all sizes for great prices.
Petco has dog crates on sale right now online 20% or more off. And free shipping for sales over $49.

Dog problems!!!!!!!!?




LainaBug


I've had a dog for a year now. And she still uses the bathroom in the floor we have the pee pads but she won't use them anything we could do to teach her to use them?


Answer
Why are you using pee pads? What a waste of money! Get a dog crate and use that to house train your dog- it's the easiest way. Petco's website has a huge sale on them right now- it's where I got one for my new dog. Have the dog sleep in the crate or be in it when you're not around to watch it- the dog won't eliminate when it's in the crate. Then when you are there to supervise take the dog outside and when he or she does use the bathroom then give them lots of praise and/or a treat. The dog should learn pretty quick. PS- make sure not to yell at your dog for using the bathroom inside unless you catch them doing it- they won't understand why you're yelling at them and will only make them upset.




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Denver people....?

Q. are you looking for a sweet loving golden retriever? Well, I have one.

My mom got my brother and I a golden retriever puppy about a year ago, this was our first dog, so it was a test run and we found that while we love our dog, a big dog isn't for us and with our busy lives its even harder.
Like I said he is a golden retriever, he has all his shots, he is house trained and he is crate trained. He is very sweet, very affectionate, he is great with all ages and other animals. He doesn't have an ounce of aggression in him and he loves to play.
His name is Buddy and he needs a home, where he can get a lot of attention and somewhere where he has room to run and play outside.
Buddy is $250. However, if you want the whole package, which includes:
The dog
Leash
Collar
Crate

It is just $50 more, which is $300.

If you are interested email me.

Here are some pics:
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=191972789&albumID=0&imageID=1588587
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=191972789&albumID=0&imageID=8772811
The myspace links don't work, these do.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/borednco/buddy2.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/borednco/buddy1.jpg


Answer
He's SO beautiful. What a cutie pie. I wish I could get a dog, but I'm never home :(

dog is always hyper what to do?




tegan38200


i asked this question before and i appreciated all your answers but im still not having any luck. my boyfriend has a german shephard, hes 1 yrs. old. he is EXTREMELY HYPER! no aggeration. any ways since my last question we have taken him outside for an hour or even 2 on really nice days,just to let him run and play ball. we've been trying to walk him but he wants nothung to do with a leash. we're still trying like around the yard for now. we do this everyday. still no change. he jumps on you all the time, doesnt pay attention to his little boy who is 3,always knocking him down or nipping at him. i know hes playin but he does not stop not even with time outs,hes more hyper when he comes out. we put him in time out starting at 1 min. then we esculate up to 7 mins. it doesnt change. and we dont over do it. that can be too much to be put in time out. he also chews on things even right in front of you,even if things are put up. i swear he doesnt sleep. he wines and tramples on us at night


Answer
You need to take him to training. With a professional trainer. German Shepards are extremely intelligent. You need to be exercising his MIND as well as his body. He is not being challenged enough. Pet Co and Petsmart have CHEAP training classes. They are not the best, but they will do. You can then work with him on training several times a day in shorter increments. That will help his as well. Plus, with training he will learn to walk on leash just fine.

Also, is he being taught he proper things to chew on? He needs bully sticks, kongs, buster cubes - things that will work his mind. The minute he gets ahold of something he shouldn't have, you say "eh eh", remove it, replace it with a proper toy and then praise him for chewing on that. You can get a product called SCAT that you place on the counters, tabletops, etc. It is motion activated. The minute the paws hit the counter, a blast of air and noise is activated. It works like a charm. My male no longer counter surfs and we haven't had the SCAT on the couters, tabletops or bed for a year. We're getting ready to use it again with our 7 month pup as she's starting to surf when she's bored.

Timeouts should be for a minimum of 10 minutes. You are not giving him enough time to calm himself down. Timeouts aren't just for him, they are for you as well. Have you tried crate training for sleep? This will help both you and he get rest. You get into a regular routine. Just like a baby going into their crib, the crate at night signifies bed time. It will be easy to transition him to sleeping on his own bed once he used to the evening routine. Denver Dumb Friends has a GREAT article that can guide you through crate training here:

www.ddfl.org

This is all very fixable with training. Training isn't just for him, it's for you two as well. You will be amazed at the helpful tips you learn! It's also a lot of fun. He's super smart so you will be able to teach him all kinds of cool tricks to impress friends as well as burn off that energy. You might also hook up with a dog or two that he likes from the class. We met a few couples and have been having playdates with our newest pup for a few months now. It's an amazing energy burner because they can go at it much better than we can!!




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How does crate training work?

Q. I have a bichon frise and I am trying to housebreak her. My friend said to use crate training. What is and how do you do "crate training"?


Answer
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.


A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.


Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.


We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.


Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.


Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.


Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.

In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone


Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:


The pup is too young to have much control.

The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.

The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.

The pup has worms.

The pup has gaseous or loose stools.

The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.

The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.

The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)

The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.


Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.


Crating Duration Guidelines

9-10 Weeks
Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks
Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks
Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks
Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)


*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)


The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]


Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.


Barking In The Crate

In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.


When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.

s/he is vomiting.

you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
(See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)

the temperature is excessively high.

s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

For those with cats AND dogs, a few questions?




Kia Koala


First, how do you work meals? Do you feed them supervised, or do you feed the cats on a higher platform the dogs can't get to? Second, where do you keep your litter box and how do you keep the dog out of it? Third, how do you keep your dog from eating the cat toys? I imagine its a problem, considering how tiny they are. Thanks for any input!!
Thank you guys for all the replies so far!! Greatly appreciate all the ideas :)



Answer
My cats have their own room, the food is on a table. The litter pans are behind a little wall of plastic crates. The cats can go over them easily, but the dog's can't.

I keep my litter pans inside of huge plastic storage bins with the lids removed. I cut cat-sized entrance holes in one end. It was easy to keep my older and much larger dog out of them - he can't reach the pans through the holes, but my new pups are small. I was shocked the day that I saw my pup Oliver actually USING the litter pan - he's a little smartie:)

In order to keep the smaller dogs out, I had to use a partition. It's not the best solution, but it keeps the dogs from snacking on kitty litter encrusted cat feces, which is not only disgusting, but probably toxic.

Cat toys? Cat toys are a hassle. It's not just the dogs, but the fact that they wind up under the appliances.

I have birds, too, and they have lots of small foot toys, which they throw on the ground for fun, even intentionally dropping them on the other animals. I spend lots of time saying "leave it", and "drop it" and "that is NOT yours". At best, I've only reduced the inter-species toy thieving by providing lots of toys for everyone.

It's a quandry:)




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Rabu, 18 Juni 2014

Where to buy floor for large indoor dog kennel?




Luke E


I have a border collie; these dogs are well known to be aggressive chewers. (he's chewed carpet, window sills, chairs, blankets; everything except the dozens of toys i give him to chew) Because of that, i cannot leave him inside the house alone, unless he is in his small dog cage, which i hate doing because he needs to be able to play. He does not like being left outside, nor is our yard suitable for such. So my idea is to buy a 6H x 7.5L x 7.5W outdoor dog kennel, and actually set it up inside in one of my rooms in the house. The only problem is, I need something to go on the floor, so that he doesnt chew up the carpet. my idea is some sort of metal or plexiglass or some sort of plastic. What would be the cheapest option out of those, and where can i buy an 8'x8' or two 4'x8' sections?
Whatever it is, it needs to be something safe for my dog, and relatively chew resistant.

Thanks!
ps i can post more details if you need them.
please tell me which type of flooring would be cheapest but still relatively chew resistant.
what about laminate flooring? would it be resistant to scratching should my dog decide to do so?



Answer
You can buy large pieces of vinyl flooring or laminate at Home Depot etc. They sell just sections similar to area rugs or will cut off only as much as you want to buy off a roll of flooring. Or if you can find a used truck bed liner to use as flooring. Check the free sites - times ppl are give away used flooring etc or leftover.

Dog Kennel Aggression?




Jake Frant


I own a Pitbull and she is the sweetest girl, she is nice to every human she meets, and other dogs. But the second lunch time comes around, she turns in to a mean dog. Lately, I've taken it upon my self to train the dog since no one else in my family will, and she finally stopped growling and chasing after my other dog when i pick up the food bowls, but there is still one more problem.

When its time for her to go into her kennel, she will run in and instantly start growling and barking at anyone who is trying to close it, or come near it, or touch it. Why does she do this? If you open it up and she walks out she won't growl or anything, only when she is IN her kennel.

How can I stop this? Please do not tell me to hire some dog expert, cause I can't afford that. I'm not afraid of being bit by her cause she might be a pitbull, but she is tiny. Please I'd like any advice as to what I can do to stop this.



Answer
I would feed separately and make your dog sit and watch you get the food and set it down. I would then stand over the food while looking at the dog and making sure the dog sat and waited. Walk away from the food a few feet and tell it to go eat. Next, "out of it" Take an object of interesting smell that your dog really doesn't care about and place in the floor. Bring your dog into the room and allow it to investigate for a few seconds and then say "out of it". When you say it you want to walk to the dog and object using your body to move the dog back. Think magnets pushing away from each other. They don't touch but when one moves towards the other it moves back. Repeating the command as you do so you want to place yourself over the object and the dog a few feet away. Once it has the idea of "out of it" when you are moving the dog backwards after it has left the object use the words "back up" repeatedly. Once you are there tell your dog to sit and stay. Then you mess with the object, walk away and tell your dog whatever command you want use, investigate, check it out, whatever and allow the dog to come back to the object. I would also suggest having a cane or something like with you randomly and to rub on your dog with it petting it with it getting the dog use to the object and seeing it as something good, not something to be be fearful of. So now your dog knows "out of it", "back up", "check it out", and is friendly with a cane. Now that all of that is down, use it during meal time. After you've gone through the feeding routine while the dog is eating, tell it "out of it" and do the same thing as the object. Hopefully through the course of training your dog sees you as the dominate and it as the submissive and will obey the command remove itself from the food without issue. If the dog tenses up or growls do not advance on it. Repeat the command firmer and make yourself stand bigger. You may want something like a cane (assuming your dog doesn't freak over you holding something like that see above) and if the dog does not move back repeat command even firmer and use the cane to touch the dog (like an extension of your arm to simply break the space and try to redirect the focus from food to my master just touched me). This is not to be menacing, just a touch and gentle redirection. You can slightly push against the dog repeating back up. This should go like it did with the object and you should be able to stand over the bowl and mess with the food without issue. * If the dog does not comply or shows any aggression, tenses up, growls, odd posture, or anything odd the dog may have severe aggression and you could get hurt* Now for the kennel issue. If all has gone well with the other training the dog should obey you and go in and out of it's cage whether it wants to or not without issue because the dog will have learned through training to obey commands. So open the cage and back away from it and tell the dog to sit then give the command to get in it's cage firmly. If the dog just stands repeat the command. Once inside tell her to sit. and stay without closing the cage. (this is where repeating the basic training every day comes in handy) If the dog tries to move tense or anything you tell it at or no very firmly! I would also have the dog lay down and stay. Any time the dog growls or tenses you verbally reprimand him telling at harshly and lay down. When doing this you try to become larger to emphasize you mean business if needed. After a minute or two of laying down have the dog come out of the cage and sit a few feet away and close the door. Love on the dog and tell it good. Repeat having the dog go in and out without closing it like that. Sometimes let the dog come right back out on command, sometimes leave it for several minutes. Sometimes stand away from the cage sometimes right next to it. After several successful times with no tenseness or aggression (definitely no fear) command it to go in and lay down and stay. Reach for the door as if to close it. If the dog even tenses give a very firm/harsh at or no without letting go of the door. Once the dog is relaxed again let go of the door and step away, Then tell the dog to come out. Repeat. Once the dog is calm for that close it half way using the same methods. The goal it to get so that you can close the door with the dog at minimum accepting it without action-growling or such. Once you can close the door wait a minute or so and let the dog out again. Repeat often!! Once the dog is ok with it all leave it in the cage for 30 minutes, then a few hours later for an hour and so on.
*If you are ever afraid of your dog get help or don't keep the dog*




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what is required to own a dog? a pit / lab mix... will be about 2-3 months old when we get it.?




Ember Halo


my husband wants a new puppy--supposedly it comes with it's puppy shots, that's about it.

we live in the city.
what will we need to get for the puppy?
does it need licensed, more shots?
special food?
how much do these things cost???

will it try to hurt my cats?
can it be left outside or do we have to have it in our tiny little house with my 3 grown cats & newborn baby??
believe me, i don't WANT to get a dog!!
but my husband already has dibs on one that's not even born yet...
i sorta want to get an idea of how much it will cost so i can show him our budget & ask how we're supposed to afford a dog when we don't even have room in the budget for disposable diapers.
okay, so i've got NO answers that i have found useful-- i need to know what else is required, so i can tell my husband...



Answer
I spend about 500 a year on my dog. This includes all shots, heartworm tests amd meds, and Frontline (for fleas and ticks). Spaying/ neutering costs anywhere from 100 to 300. Check with your city about dog permits, some require them some don't (some will NOT allow you to have a pitt or pitt mix, and with reason). You will need a crate, a must have, those are about 60-150, a pad for the crate, and food and water bowls. Look at spending around $200 on 'stuff' aside from the cost of the dog. Don't forget lots and lots of chew toys, and ask the breeder if they can put a towel or something in the whelping box for a few days before you bring the puppy home. The scent of his mom and litter mates will be very comforting to him. Be preapred to lose a lot of sleep as puppies will cry the first few nights, plus you will have to start potty training right away and this requires yo to get up several times in the middle of the night. I have always bought Puppy Chow brand dog food. Vets will try to get you to spend mucho denero on expensive brands, don't buy into the hype!

Now that that's out of the way, I have to ask, why in the world would he want a pit bull mix around a BABY?? I have a lab and a pom, great dogs, but still watch them around my 3 y.o. I used to be a vetrinary technician and I can tell you from experience, that these dogs can have the best owner in the world and will still turn on them. All the vets I've worked with agree that this a breed that should be eradicated because they have undergone excessive uncontrolled breeding, thus the bad attributes are exaggerated in their temperament. I'm a huuuuge dog person, but can't stand this untrustworthy breed. I knew a guy who loved his dog, treated him better than most humans, and had to shoot his own dog because he wouldn't let him in his own house. A pitt of course. Dog was fine, never bit or acted agressive towards anyone, he just flipped. Pitts and Rotts have a hereditary health condition that should make you pause as pregnant woman. Their brains often outgrow the size of their skull creating pressure.The pressure causes the dog to act very, VERY agressive without notice. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell if your dog has this condition until they've mauled someone. For an adult to assume responsibility is one thing, but I just don't believe in taking chances like that with kids. If I was you I would put my foot down and tell him absofuckinglutely NOT. I would leave my dh if he came home with a pitt! Seriously! Like, who do you love? Your kid or this dog? Know what I mean? Especially when you consider there are breeds that have excellent temperaments to have a round children, but will still act as guardian when needed.

If you have a small home I suggest getting a smaller dog, especially considering it will still be a lumbering puppy with no sense of size or proportion (stepping all over the baby, egaads)! I love the little Norwich Terriers, adorable, smart, guardian. Keep in mind how much you are willing to walk him and if you have a fenced yard or not. If you don't have a yard, walking is required and if you're lazy like me and you get an 'active' breed, well then my dear, that is a recipe for disaster!

I would suggest going to the pound, but I don't reccommend that for people with small children as the dog will have a 'history' and that's scary when with kids.

Good luck, hope this helps!

Out of Control Dogs!?




L


So i have a five year old Lab and a three year old Puggle (pug and beagle.) These dogs are the most spoiled things i have ever seen. My mom treats them better than me and and brother sometimes. But this along with he never training them has led to them having run of the house. The puggle poops EVERYWHERE and they are constantly getting out of the fence. In fact today i spent over two hours looking for them. We've tried electric fences and everything, but my mom thinks it's to inhumane. I told her what's inhumane is letting them get run over by a truck, since the highway is near our house. So we've had to spend 3k on a new fence, which didn't work, and about 500 on a bottom barrier, which they usually go around or find a new spot. It's fifteen dollars for a one foot piece, and we have a big yard, and we haven't even done half of it yet.
Ten minutes ago i left my dinner to go wash my hands and came back to my lab eating the salad and the puggle chewing on the steak bone. This isn't the first time, either. They've eaten everything from three dozen school bake sale cupcakes to two trash bags full of Halloween candy. They're favorite is bread, which is why I hardly ever get sandwiches.
I'm so sick of these dogs. Yes I love them, but i can't stand this anymore. No one wants to do anything about it, but I'm SO done.
Can you help us? Is there any advice you can give about to keep dogs inside the fence and from jumping up on the counters and eating everything in sight? Thanks!



Answer
Don't let the dogs outside unsupervised-crate them or put them in a separate room and make it so they are not allowed in the room when there is food and not until the food is put away/cleaned up.

Your family either needs to enroll in obedience class with the dogs(the whole family needs to go and be on the same page) or your family needs to find a private trainer to come to your house and assess the dogs/household and have them teach your family how to correct the dogs/train them/etc.

Also make sure your dogs are getting daily walks/runs/jogs. Make sure they are getting exercise and mental stimulation daily.




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Dog Problems - Need Help!!!?




Andrea


I got this dog from my cousin. I was told they simply did not have the time for him. My mom and brother warned me that he had severe behavior problems, nothing violent though. I took him anyway as it was me or the pound. For the first couple of weeks he was perfect. Never had any accidents, slept in my bed all night. About a month ago he started peeing all over whenever he got nervous or excited or scared. He gets up in the middle of the night, tips over my bin and eats the crotch out of dirty cloth diapers and eats out of the cat box... He has bitten me and my son. He will push my 7 month old daughter over to get to me and he'll sit on her if he can't move her. He is also extremely excitable, if I try to play with him he gets really rough and jumps around all over and bites hard even though he is just playing. He steals food off the counter, off of highchairs, from the garbage and even from my kids' hands. He is very skinny, he'll eat any and everything I give him no matter how much or how often, always still hungry but vet says he has no parasites.

Today he actually peed on the floor right in front of me twice, this is the first time he has intentionally peed on the floor, not over stimulated and had just been out. This occured just after having a bath.

He has made a little progress, he used to run away everytime I'd open the door. He hasn't tried to run off in a little over a week.

I do not know what could be causing these problems, I have tried for a month to address them and I am not able to. He is very smart, I taught him to shake within an hour and he does it well, he is VERY handsy. Even to the point of scratching me badly if I do not pet him long enough. Shake, sit, and cage are the only things he knows and I haven't been able to show him anything new. I have to go out of town this weekend to see some family, and I will have to take him will as his behavior is so out of control no one will dogsit for me.

He was a very good dog for awhile, so I know that he can be. I do not want to get rid of him but he will have to go for my family's sake if I can't alter his behavior.

Sorry so lengthy - Can anyone help?

ADDITIONALLY - He is very submissive, even rolls over on his back when scolded - he then pees on himself...
Okay - I thought I had written too much but I guess I haven't written enough. I badly want to help this dog. If I didnot he would be gone. I DO NOT know ANYONE who can help me. If I did I would ask them for help. I do not see how I have given enough information for anyone to decide I am making him nervous or sending him mixed signals. I have trained dogs before, my mother did it as a job so I grew up around it. She is unfortunately not here to help. I do not have them time, that is an acurate assement. I am willing to make the time. P.S. he is scared of going outside, our walks are miserable for him.
That would be helpful, does anyone know of any good sites. The ones I've read on all say different things. I guess I'm looking for someone who has experience with these problems. Also, I do not believe in treating them seperately, they could stem from a single problem... I just do not want to confuse him and make this harder. Also, where I live there is no help through the humae society. They are also untrustworthy. Last year I brought them a pregant cat I found and they made me feel like a criminal, finally telling me that they would take her and find her a home. One of the workers told me she was to be out to sleep in an hour's time even though she was pregnant. I had to fight them to get that cat back and find her a home myself. They do not seem like they are concerned with helping.
Socion - Thank you. I apologize if I have put you off. Your edit was helpful, you have provided me with plenty of information and I am greatful. I really was just looking for a person with similar experience to give advice for the hard going as it is very frustrating on my own. I have a lot to juggle and my family assumes that I can not help him. Your information was far more encouraging than being told a trainer or someone experienced should do it. After all, no one trained me to be a mother and I certainly wouldn't give my kids away to someone more experienced. Thanks much.



Answer
All those issues can be dealt with but is nearly as much work as having another child. Have the time? And do you want to spend the time...? The dog should really be with an experienced owner, an owner who realizes s/he needs to be knowledgeable *yesterday* and is willing to get on the ball, or an owner who has the means to pay a trainer. It's too many problems to even go into here, when there are lots of websites and books on training and canine behavior. Ask people to recommend some for you, or just google stuff yourself and start reading. Make a point to watch the show "It's Me or the Dog". The trainer addresses problems such as yours on every episode.

Has the dog been neutered? That should help a lot with the excitable peeing and some of the other issues as well. Is he getting at least one long daily walk -- the earlier in the day, the better? Dogs who can count on being taken for a daily walk usually don't try to escape on their own. Put the cat box high enough where he can't reach it. Put food, the trash bin, and the laundry hamper out of reach to remove the temptation until you can address each issue specifically. Make sure you are feeding a high-quality food but if that means switching brands, don't do it abruptly or else you'll be adding diarrhea to your list of problems.

You can ask a questions HERE about training and care websites. Or find some yourself. Just google. Look up tips for making his walks more enjoyable. He must like something about the outdoors or he wouldn't have been trying to escape. You might walk him with a treat in your hand, giving bits every so often to make it a pleasurable experience for him. Many people will tell you that regular obedience training will help your dog learn to trust you, thereby increasing his confidence. Is he expected to "sit" before he gets food or treats or a toy? Do you know how to be a "pack leader"? If he's sleeping in your bed and sitting on your sofa, I recommend you get him his own bed or a blanket or something for him to lay on the floor; confident leaders don't share their sleeping/relaxing space with subordinates who aren't clear on where they fit in the pack. Even a crate would be fine -- just don't use it as a substitute for proper training. But if he's been allowed to get on the furniture, don't just start shoving him off and yelling at him. TRAIN him! Show him what you expect, show him what his bed is for. Then if he tries to jump up on your furniture, tell him "ack-ack!". Block him with your body and command "off!" or "get back!". Dogs often use their body to correct other dogs with what is known as a "body check".

How to deal with the biting could depend on several things. Is he biting because he's playing too roughly and wasn't taught bite inhibition when he was younger? Is he biting to try to keep you in line? Is he biting out of a perceived need to protect someone or something? Is he unable to get away from your child when he wants to? A crate left open during the day is a good place for a doggy to retreat from rambunctious children.

Dogs rarely do anything without a reason, even if that reason isn't clear to you. There is only enough space and time here to get you thinking about possible solutions to your problems. He's your dog and it's up to you to make the effort to understand canine behavior, and to find and implement solutions that work for you. You should also learn everything you can about the breed.

Here are just a couple of sites with articles on various topics...


http://www.canismajor.com/dog/ttrain.html

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/taskdt.html

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/care.htm


They could stem from a single problem and that most likely is a failure of the humans in his life to understand canine behavior and how to properly raise a dog.

There is no magic wand someone can wave and fix everything. But also remember, there is no such thing as a perfectly-trained dog. Just start making some positive changes, and keep at it. If he's not trained to "sit", all you have to do is come to him with a food bowl or treat and just stand there. He may wiggle and jump around, but he's not going to go anywhere. And he's not stupid; eventually his rear will hit the floor. The instant it does, say the command "sit!" and give him the food.

Teach him to fetch. It's simple to do and good exercise for him. Throw a ball or his favorite toy toward a barrier such as a wall or fence .That way when he retrieves it, he'll have to run back by you. When he runs near you with the toy, let him see you drop a few bits of kibble at your feet. The instant he drops the toy to eat the food, give the command, "go fetch". Have a few sessions of several repetitions and he will be conditioned to fetch.

If he jumps on you, walk into (toward) him; you will be invading his space like a leader should do, and it should also take him off balance enough to discourage the jumping.

If you need a method of discipline, put pennies in an empty Coke can and seal the top with tape. Then shake the can to interrupt him if he's trying to scrounge in something he shouldn't. This technique is called sound diversion. Or simply remove the item, tell him "no" and give him something that is acceptable, such as one of his toys.

For the worst or most persistent behavior, such as growling at you or pestering you for attention, tell him "get back!" and lead him by the collar (or a short lead you've left attached to his collar) to a dark empty room, a closet even, and shut him in it for a few minutes. You don't need to jerk him or lose your temper. The isolation will be bad enough. If he resumes the behavior when you let him out, back to the closet he goes for another couple minutes....Soon, your patience and consistency will pay off. He will learn what get back means. But be fair. If he hasn't had adequate exercise, how can you blame him for being overactive?

If he bites you when you're playing, yelp a high-pitched "OW!" and stop the play. Completely ignore him for a few minutes.

Do take the time to read this article, and good luck:

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/articles/humandog.htm

Prepared for new dog?

Q. I recently acquired a new homeless dog to help fill the emptiness left by a previous dog. I have the following:
collar
leash
dishes x2
Covered bed
food/water
love and affection for the newcomer

Anything else
It's just a stray. It's no longer a puppy
oh my, god!!! He's gone. He ran away!! *cries* He's a beagle and he ran off.
he came back


Answer
Full list:
Wire or plastic dog crate
Easily washable, hard-to-destroy bedding material, imitation sheepskin works well§ tip-proof, stainless steel or hard plastic food & water dishes.
Buckle puppy collar & lead; I like the soft braided nylon types.
ID Tag with your phone number to wear on the collar
a collection of high quality, safe chew toys: Puppy Nylabones, Cressite rubber balls or bones and sturdy stuffed squeak toys.
grooming supplies: ask your breeder for recommendations
a quality brand of dry puppy food.
"Bitter Apple", a safe spray-on product to discourage chewing on inappropriate objects.
a wire, wooden or plastic âbaby gateâ for blocking doorways.
a good book on puppy care & training . Read through them before bringing your puppy home.




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