Sabtu, 14 Juni 2014

What kind of dog??

Q. I have 2 little sisters and 1 older brother. My littlest sis is allergic to them, so it has to stay outside most of the time. what breed do u reccomend?
My family is always outside, though, and my dad wants one really bad. We have a mini barn for lawn tools, and we are gonna clear it out and insolate it. We will let him in in the winter, her allergies go down then. plz dont say no dog- i am working on my mom
we are all very hyper and would play outside at least 3 hours with it


Answer
Evaluate your lifestyle before committing to a dog. Are you active? Do yuo have time to exercise a dog (they need a minimum of 60 mins a day, and i dont mean running around in a yard!) Can you afford a dog?

Costs:
Dog - $400 on up for a well bred and healthy dog

supplies - $300 to $400 for first go around for crate, collar leash, ID, bowls, food, toys

monthly dog food/toy bills about $50 depending on size of dog

Vet bills - first vet check including shots, flea/tick/heart worm meds, lab feed, etc about $200 depending on vet

Annual grooming vet bills of $400 or more depending on dog

And that's the bare minimum. Im sorry but if you have a family member that is allergic and can't take allergy medications, don't get a dog. Some do fine outside but most outside dogs develop socialization issues. You can't bring them in and out with the seasons and expect them to be fine. At least not all of them.

Play with them and walk them daily.

Consider poodles (hypoalergenic) or similar breeds if you must have one.

what size crate for golden retriever?




j.w.


I'm about to buy a soft crate for my dogs agility classes. I was wondering what size is good. She isn't a huge golden, she weighs about 60 lbs. There are 2 sizes:
36 inches L x 24 inches W x 27 inches H
42 inches L x 28 inches W x 31 inches H
I will be moving this around a lot so I would go for the smaller one but I want her to be comfy. Thanks!



Answer
If it were up to USDA, the dog would have to have enough room to invite over all of his friends, have a BBQ, go for jog, play some frisbee, and have about 5 area codes. Here's reality:

Varikennel #100 21"x16"x15"H,
Actual CrateWeight: 7 Lb
Cats, Toy Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, Shih Tzus

Varikennel #200 27"x20"x19"H
Actual Crate Weight: 15 Lb
Beagles, Shelties, Min. Poodles, Cockers, Lhasa Apsos

Varikennel #300 32"x22"x23"H
Actual Crate Weight: 18 Lb
Springers, Border Collies, Bull Dogs

Varikennel #400 36"x24"x26"H
Actual Crate Weight: 23 Lb
Boxers, Dalmatians, Collies, Airdales, Setters, Aust. Shepherds, Dobermans

Varikennel #500 40"x27"x30"H
Actual Crate Weight: 27 Lb
Afghans, Retrievers, Pointers, Shepherds, Rottweilers

Varikennel #700 48"x32"x35"H
Actual Crate Weight: 44 Lb
Irish Wolfhounds, Newfoundlands, St. Bernards, Mastiffs, Greyhounds




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Dog crate bedding?




lwil82


I have a almost 1 year old cairn terrier. She is crate-trained and is in her crate to sleep at night, and while we are at work or leave the house. When sleeping at night she has a blanket and pillow and does fine with it. While she is crated during the day - whether for 5 minutes or 5 hours, she chews on any blanket that is in her crate. (she has toys in her crate also) We have gone through a number of blankets and have even left her without a blanket during the day, but I feel bad that she has to sleep on the hard plastic. Does anyone know of a good blanket or rug that is indestructible - or some other solution?


Answer
Terriers are natural born chewers and diggers. Sounds like you need a Kuranda bed. They are chewproof, and can be just hosed down to clean them. No affiliation and all that stuff - yada, yada. They are somewhat like a hammock on a stand, so very comfy. We are purchasing them for our new shelter, so our dogs won't have to sleep on the floor, and we won't have to clean bedding.

Google "Kuranda", they cost a bit more but are well worth it.

Crating my puppy need opinion?




<3 hey the


hello i have a 8 week old Schnauzer i got her about a week ago and i would like to get your opinion on this.Okay i just got a job and start tomorrow so i got a crate to keep her in while i am working,which will be 7 to 3 but i work about 2 mins away so i will come home and take her out on my breaks.So do you think the whole crating idea is a good one,and should i let her get use to it 1st before i start coming home on my breaks?I have her in it just to get her use to it but she is having a fit.
Stan:I love my pup and i understand where you are coming from but the thing is i really live 2 mins from my job.My plan is to come home and take her out on my breaks.Trust me i know a pup her size can not hold it in for that long,and she will get lots of attention before and after work.but thank you for your opinion.
Mireya:thank you for your opinon i never thought of a dog walker but i am sure i will come home every 2 hours.I get 3 15 min breaks and a 30min lunch break.But thanks for the help i will look into that.
CLH:Thank you for the help i think she will be fine and will always know that i am coming back for her.A lot of the answers was good but yours so far is the best.I put her in the crate and put a sheet over it and she went right to sleep thank you.



Answer
Crate training is great - especially for a small dog. The idea behind crate training is that dogs are "den" animals. Like foxes in the wild. If you need to work during the day this is a good option. There are several rules of thumb you should follow to make sure your puppy is comfortable.

First, make sure the crate is just large enough for your puppy to stand up in (on all fours of course, head up, and big enough that she is able to lie on her side with her legs outstretched, any larger than this will provide too much room for her and she may "potty" in her crate. You don't want that as crate training also helps with potty training. If your crate is the correct size she will not potty in it as she'll feel like she wont be able to get far enough away from her "business."

Second, as she is still a puppy she will only be able to hold her bladder for 3-4 hours tops before she becomes uncomfortable. Make sure you are coming home on your lunch to let her outside.

Third, make sure she has water in her crate - there are attachable dishes, so she won't spill it, and give her a couple of safe toys to play with/chew on while crated. Make sure they are of indestructible material that is large enough so she does not choke. If she really likes a specific toy give that one to her only when she's crated, so it feels like a reward. Never, ever punish her by putting her in her crate. The crate should be her safe haven. You don't want to associate it with anything negative.

Lastly, if she's getting a bit out of sorts inside her crate - whining and such - place a light sheet over the top of it to darken it up in there. This should settle her down.

The best way to start her out in her crate would be over a weekend. Put her in her crate in a quiet room and close the door. Leave her for 10 min - let her out. An hour later, put her in for 30 min, let her out. an hour later, put he in for an hour, and so on, so she'll eventually get used to it and realize that even though she's in there, you will be back to let her out again. Also, having something of yours like an old shirt or pillow case with your smell in her bedding will make her feel more secure.

Make sure she gets plenty of exercise when she's out of her crate. This will keep her much more content while she is crated.

Good luck!




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What size dog crate would i need if i have a dog whos 16 inches tall and 30 inches long?

Q. Also where would I be able to get one for the best value


Answer
I would suggest a wire crate if you are doing crate training. You'll need a 700 or 800 series size crate. A 700 series crate should give your dog enough room to be able to turn around, and lay down. A 800 series crate will give your dog more room to stretch out. Petsmart and Petco often have crates on sale. I would choose one that has 2 doors, so you can clean it out easier. Hope this helps :)

Where to get a GIANT Air Approved Plastic Travel Crate?




Mooms K


We've been looking everywhere online for a GIANT Air Approved Plastic Travel Crate. It needs to be at least 42" HIGH. Also referred to as 700 Series. We can find Wire Crates, but we can't use those, it needs to be plastic. I don't need answers like " Check Google " Because we have. Has anyone ever found one, or do they know a site to get one at?


Answer
http://www.doggydogsupplies.com/petmate-varikennel-traditional-pet-crate-giant.html 48" high


http://www.doggydogsupplies.com/petmate-sky-kennel-dog-crate.html




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Buying the proper sized dog crate?




Virdrago


I have a Min Pin that is 18 months old. I need to purchase a crate for her. I have tried crating her in a crate I already have that is 24 x 18, and she goes potty in it. My dilemma is that she is very small, less than 10 lbs., but she is quite tall. I really think she needs a small crate to keep her from pottying, but cannot find one with enough height for her. She needs like at least an 18" tall crate. Should I just use a 24 x 18 and put a divider in it, or do you have any other suggestions?
OK people,...my question, as stated in the title, is about buying the proper sized dog crate. I have had plenty of dogs before, and have crate trained plenty of dogs before. As stated above, my dilemma is the dog is quite small, but very tall, which makes finding the proper sized crate a challenge. Dogs I have had in the past have not been so difficult to find the right sized crate for, and if the crate is too large, it is not uncommon for the dog to potty in the crate. A small dog can hold it's bladder for much longer than 3 hours, so that is a ridiculous statement. There may be some dogs out there that can't hold their bladder more than 3 hours, but that is not usually the case, and there may be some underlying condition causing that. Yes, small dogs have small bladders, but they also drink less, and it is all relative. None the less, this question has nothing to do with how often I need to take my dog out. Please, if there is someone who may have had a similar issue



Answer
Use a divider, but if you get her out often enough she won't need to use her crate for a bathroom.
Http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com/PottyTraining.htm

what size crate for golden retriever?




j.w.


I'm about to buy a soft crate for my dogs agility classes. I was wondering what size is good. She isn't a huge golden, she weighs about 60 lbs. There are 2 sizes:
36 inches L x 24 inches W x 27 inches H
42 inches L x 28 inches W x 31 inches H
I will be moving this around a lot so I would go for the smaller one but I want her to be comfy. Thanks!



Answer
If it were up to USDA, the dog would have to have enough room to invite over all of his friends, have a BBQ, go for jog, play some frisbee, and have about 5 area codes. Here's reality:

Varikennel #100 21"x16"x15"H,
Actual CrateWeight: 7 Lb
Cats, Toy Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, Shih Tzus

Varikennel #200 27"x20"x19"H
Actual Crate Weight: 15 Lb
Beagles, Shelties, Min. Poodles, Cockers, Lhasa Apsos

Varikennel #300 32"x22"x23"H
Actual Crate Weight: 18 Lb
Springers, Border Collies, Bull Dogs

Varikennel #400 36"x24"x26"H
Actual Crate Weight: 23 Lb
Boxers, Dalmatians, Collies, Airdales, Setters, Aust. Shepherds, Dobermans

Varikennel #500 40"x27"x30"H
Actual Crate Weight: 27 Lb
Afghans, Retrievers, Pointers, Shepherds, Rottweilers

Varikennel #700 48"x32"x35"H
Actual Crate Weight: 44 Lb
Irish Wolfhounds, Newfoundlands, St. Bernards, Mastiffs, Greyhounds




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Jumat, 13 Juni 2014

Do u know any website that teach me how to train my dog?




luis v


hi can uplz give me the link how can i train a pupy like to ask me when he needs to pee or poo or when i call him he can come thanks


Answer
Sure, I'll give you some:

HOUSEBREAKING
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/housebreaking.html
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/housebreaking.htm
http://www.dog-training-online.info/?hop=runtowin
http://www.pets.ca/articles/article-cratetrain.htm
http://www.hilltopanimalhospital.com/housebreak2.htm
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1548&articleid=157
http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/pets/BB489.html
http://www.chowwelfare.com/cciw/housebk.htm
http://www.familyvet.com/break.htm
http://www.dogproblems.com/public/314.cfm
http://perfectpaws.com/pup3.html
http://www.animalsites.com/articles.asp?articleid=455
http://www.darnfar.com/Dog%20Training/housebreaking_a_puppy.htm
http://petcaretips.net/tips-crate-train.html
_

COME WHEN CALLED
http://www.dogs-training.net/prints/dog-training/Come-_-How-Do-I-Teach-My-Dog-To-Come-When-Called.html
http://ahimsadogtraining.com/handouts/recall.html
http://www.puplife.com/dogcaretips/comewhencalled.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_69_train-dog-come.html
http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com/come.html
http://perfectpaws.com/recall.html
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_ComeCall.html
http://www.pet-tails.com/LPMArticle.asp?ID=155
http://www.raisingspot.com/training/basic_dog_training_come.php
http://www.geocities.com/jetflair/come.html
http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-train-your-dog-to-come-when-called
http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/how-to-teach-your-dog-obedience-training-small-dog-miki-come-call.htm
http://www.ehow.com/how_2041603_train-dog-come-called.html
http://www.ezinearticles.com/?Teaching-a-Dog-to-Come-When-Called&id=279407
http://watchandtrain.blogspot.com/2007/07/teach-dog-to-come-when-called.html

I need some help training a dog.?




Victor V


Alright. i bought a dog a while ago ( last march). and I've been trying to train her. I've been using the clicker and giving her treats ( she now knows sit) But one thing i cant get her to do is be potty trained. She always runs around the house and poops. I've tried controlling her food ( when she has food) and walking her.
But she does not get into the habit of asking to go use the restroom. any help?

Note: we have a backyard so i leave her there she barley poops there. but she pees there a lot.
One last thing shes a minuture shounzier i heard they're not easy to train.



Answer
The key to house training your dog is to rely on your dog's natural instincts and tendencies.

Dogs are instinctively clean animals. If they can avoid it, they would rather not soil themselves or their usual eating and sleeping areas. Dogs also naturally develop habits of where they would like to eliminate. For example, dogs that have a habit of eliminating on grass or dirt would rather not eliminate on concrete or gravel. You can use these natural tendencies for rapid and successful house training.

Establish Your Dog's Living Area

There are two things you can do to set your dog up for successful house training. First, establish your dog's living area (we will call it 'den' from here out) in a small confined space such as a bathroom, part of the kitchen or garage. Please note that a den is not a crate. Read about crate training for more information on this. Try to spend as much time as possible with your dog in her den. It is important to play with her in this area as well as let her eat and sleep here. Give your dog a special bed; this can be anything from an open crate to a large cardboard box to a beach towel. In the beginning, she may eliminate in here but once she realizes that this is her special den, she will try to avoid soiling it.

Once your dog gets used to sleeping on her very own bed, you can move it around your house from room to room, where ever you go. Confine your dog to her bed when ever you are somewhere other than her den. If her bed is a crate, simply close the door. If her bed is a towel or blanket, place it next to a piece of furniture and leash your dog so she can't get out of her bed.

Since you should never leave your dog unattended while leashed, it's an even better idea to leash your dog to yourself! Tie one end of the leash around your waist or belt loop. Now your dog can accompany you around your home and you can monitor her behavior.

Establish the Toilet Area

Second, establish your dog's toilet area. Every time your dog needs to eliminate be sure she has access to this place. Until she develops a strong habit of eliminating here, it is important that you accompany her every time. If she eliminates some where else, then she'll be establishing a habit of eliminating there.

To make things easier on both yourself and your dog, you should put your dog on a regular feeding schedule. What goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule. If you know when your dog needs to empty out, then you'll know when to take her to her toilet area. Healthy adult dogs should be able to control their bladder and bowels for eight hours.

It's important that you do not confine your dog without access to her toilet area for too long. If she can't hold it, she will be forced to soil herself, her bed or her den. If this happens, it may become a habit and will take much longer to housetrain her.

House Training: Bringing It All Together

Once your dog consistently eliminates in her toilet area and stops soiling her den, then you can start extending her den to the rest of your house. Begin by giving her access to one room at a time, but only when you know without a doubt that her bladder and bowels are completely empty. Let her eat, sleep and play in this room but only when she can be supervised. When you cannot supervise her, either confine her to her bed in that room, or put her back in her den. Once she accepts this room as an extension of her den, then go on to the next room.

Speeding Up the Natural House Training Process

If you follow the instructions so far, your dog will be house trained in due time. One way to speed up the process is to praise and reward your dog each and every time she eliminates in her toilet area. It is equally as important not to reprimand your dog for accidents and mistakes. Reprimand usually confuses the dog and slows down the house training process.

House Training Problems

* If your dog continues to soil her den, either you have left her there too long or the den may be too large an area for her. Take her to her toilet area more frequently or establish her den in an even smaller area.

* If she soils her bed, then you probably confined her there too long and she couldn't help herself; or she doesn't understand yet that this is her bed. Urinary tract problems and medical conditions can also cause your dog to soil her bed while she is sleeping.

* Some dogs drink excessive amounts of water out of boredom or habit and therefore have to urinate too frequently. If this is your dog, limit her water, take her to her toilet area more frequently and give her activities to do so she isn't bored.

* If the den is not properly introduced, your dog may feel as if it is a prison and show signs of anxiety, barking, chewing, whining, etc. Make sure your dog enjoys being in her den.




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Dog crating problem- Does fine while we're home, panic's when we leave!?




David P


Alright guys, I have a 7 year old terrier/beagle mut and originally he was my dog until I joined the military. I left him with my mom. Ever sense we've had him he's always had seperation anxiety. Eventually my sister bought a puggle (pug/beagle mix) and that inadvertently fixed it. He was fine staying at home. Well she moved about 6 months ago and for the first 4 months he was fine being left alone.

Then me and my fiance moved out of my mom's apartment. We were just living there temporarily. He ate a hole in her drywall. So I took him to our apartment because my mom got really upset. I started reading information about separation anxiety, crate training, and being the alpha dog. I read that the majority of sep anxiety comes from the dog feeling like its his job to protect you and when you leave it confuses him and he takes it out on things, sometimes himself.

So for several weeks I did -everything- suggested to show them your the alpha dog. He was reacting well to this, becoming submissive, I was able to get him to eat his food in his crate when before he wouldn't get near it. Eventually he even slept in his crate during the day and we were home. However, once we'd put him in the crate and leave he'd panic. Either destroying things left in the crate (Like a towel for him to lay on) or he'd lick the bars on the crate until his nose was bleeding and raw.

I really don't think its an alpha dog issue, he isn't showing any traits of feeling like he is the leader and I've been very successful (and so has my fiance) and reinforcing it daily. We do the pack walks, I make him always sit and shake before receiving petting, and I always lead him. At food time he eats after we do and after I walk him. When we feed him we make him sit and stay until we tell him he can go eat.

Any other ideas?
Just some additional information. I do leave things in his crate to do he just won't do anything with them while we leave. He just panic's the whole time. Before we leave he starts panting heavily like he's just getting all worked up.
I don't leave him in the crate day and night lol. He lays in his crate during the day, thats where he chooses to lay down. He isnt locked in there, and at night he sleeps in the living room in his dog bed because he crys if we try to put him in the crate at night. The only time I PUT him in his crate is when we leave and lately I've been forced to leave him in my bedroom because he seems to do good in there alone.



Answer
Hiya i had this problem with my boxer as a pup it sounds like seperation anxiety - it is fairly common (more in younger dogs) but they get worked up and anxious without their owner. I found that using DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) plug in resolved the issue very quickly. It is like an air fresherner plug in but releases a pheromone that relaxes dogs (a similar 1 that a mum releases to their young) this calms the dog of any age. You cant smell anything. Is also useful for times such as bonfire night or new yr if fireworks scare your dog!! It may be worth a try i was not convinced and i tried it within a week my dog didnt stress or howl when i left her.
http://www.doggiesolutions.co.uk/d-a-p-dog-appeasing-pheromone-497-0.html
A couple of other things you could try is
1 - leaving her for a couple of minutes (working up to longer) in another room while you are in
2 - Dont stroke or pet your dog before you leave total ignorance 10 mins before you go out as fussing will increase the anxiety before you actually leave and your dog will think there is something to be scared about
3 - give a nice juicy bone (suitable for dogs obviously) to chew on gives them something else to focus on.
4 - The most important thing when shes calm and doesnt pine reward with lots of fuss and treats
It doesnt sound like a dominance issue you sound as if you have a very well behaved and socialised dog.
You could maybe consider if your circumstances let you getting a play mate that would almost definately solve the issue
Hope you sort it.

Taking two dogs to the UK, what is the quarentine process like. Is it worth it or better to rehome or...?




NoDayButTo


Taking two dogs to the UK, what is the quarentine process like. Is it worth it or better to rehome or find a temp home for the dogs.

I have heard some bad things about the quarentine process. And a friend had told us that has been through it that the dogs would be first having no interaction for atleast the first 3 days. So to put enough food in their cage for 3 days and plenty of water. Then to tape a bag of food to their crate for when they eventually get around to feeding them. She said a lot of dogs are lucky to make it out. Some die just from being there that long, many get lost and misplaced, some get sick and die or are euthanized.

So my question is how long is the quarentine process? Is it really that bad? Is it really worth putting the dogs through?

My husbands co worker is going to London to oversee a major project at their London office and he will be there anywhere from 6 to 9 months.
He has 2 dogs one is a Jack Russell Terrier and the other is an American Staffordshire Terrier.

Now I know the UK has an issue with pit bulls, is the Amstaff consider a "Pit Bull" over there or just the APBT?

Is it worth it to even try to take them or should he rehome them or try to find them a temporary home for the months he is gone? He doesn't want to part with his dogs but he worries about the effects of taking them with him.

Thanks



Answer
Hello
First of all, YES, the Am.Staff is considered a pitbull over here, however, you are able to obtain a special licence through DEFRA when coming into the country under this situation. It may require the dog to be neutered and muzzled in public, but will try and find a link for you to the correct DEFRA page.

Quarantine is a DEFINITELY 6 months, which is a long time considering he will only be here 6 to 9 months. I have to wonder if it is worth this at all.

However I can thoroughly vouch for the Ladyhaye Kennels in Blindley Heath. It is where we keep our rescues and I know all the staff and how they are with the quarantine dogs.

http://www.cylex-uk.co.uk/company/ladyhaye-kennels-16373640.html

It is in an area not too far from London by car and your friend would be able to visit at any time. I was there this morning walking our dogs. It is close to Gatwick airport.

Add on - here is the link regarding the USA. If the dogs have their qualifying paperwork then they would not need quarantine.
http://www.defra.gov.uk/wildlife-pets/pets/travel/pets/procedures/support-info/other.htm

Add again. I cannot find the piece I have read before regarding a license for the dog, although I did come across words used to describe the pit bull - and American Staff was in there.




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Were you ever active against the dog-related issues where you live?

Q. Have you ever reported anyone to the police, have you ever worked in a shelter, etc.

I was a volunteer in the local shelter until a few years ago.


Answer
well i am currently lobbying the city where i live for more dog off leash areas ... i live in downtown vancouver which is more densely populated than manhatten and there are only three off leash areas, and one is for small dogs only ... and then the city went and spent 300 000 dollars to paint bike lanes ... i personally pay the city 50 dollars a year for a dog license and cyclists pay nothing but because it seems "environmentally friendly" the city pays that kind of money for these "lanes" ... which ticks me off ... and i have to say i have nothing against bike lanes ... i am 42, have never driven a car, and have only used a bike or public transit to get around ... but the reality is painting some lines on busy streets is NOT going to get people out of their cars ... google burrard and davie street view and see if you would cycle in that traffic ... another lane they painted, cars just ignore it and constantly i see cyclists almost get hit ... so for me the money spent on bike lanes (15% of vancouver population has bikes compared to almost 30 percent that have licensed dogs and no money is spent on dogs) is more for "environmental" show than anything else ... just like all the "parks" built right before the olympics so tourists would see vancouver as green ... NOT ... every time i suggest a location to the parks board, i get oh a condo is being built there, or a gas station is being built there ... approximately a block from my house one of these fake "olympic" parks was built, and just yesterday i saw the billboard that a huge highrise is to be built in that spot ...

Hiking dogs/separation anxitey!?




Dragongirl


Okay sorry if this is a little long. I feel you guys need to know as much info as possible.
Im 16 years old right now and i live with my 3 friends, one is 17, one is 19, and one is 20. Me and my friends go up to vancouver ever summer for about 2 weeks in July. We hike, swim, etc. hikes sometimes last all day and even we often to all nighters. This year i wont be able to bring my 11 year old Staffie with me, she has come every year for the past 3 years, but her hips are getting very bad and she just doesnt have the stamina and agility to climb the hike trails. She will have to be staying behind. However, Ive had her sence she was four, and when something happens other then her regular rutine, she gets quite upset. She can get out of the solid plastic crates, the wire crates etc. Leaving her with a friend is an option but i will need something that she cant get out of because she will rip open a door to get somewhere. Normaly she comes shopping with me and everything. She is totaly fine in the car. What can i do about the separation anxiety? Do any of you know of a EXCELLENT boarding kennel, who wont mind the anxiety and also, she is a little timid of men when they pick something up, she wouldnt bite, shes backs up and puts fur up and avoids. (she was abused).
Also, this year i will be going with my atm 7 month old heeler male, my 3 six week old heeler puppies, my friends will have there5 year old lab,2 year old sheherd and 4 year old dobie. By next year the heelers should be able to hike and stuff right? No ill effects on joints or anything? Any think i should look out for? Thanks! Any extra tips would be great!!
We also often rent 4 horses and trail ride, and other stuff, for a few days.



Answer
Try your best to find friends, family, co-workers, friends of friends, etc. to watch your dog while you are gone. This will relieve some of her anxiety by being in a home setting. Most top notch well run boarding facilities have dealt with dogs having the same issues. Just make sure you are up-front and honest with them so they know how to accomodate her.

As long as the puppies are fully grown by the time you take your next hiking trip, they should be fine.




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My dog keeps peeing on my carpets! please help!

Q. My dachshund (11 months old) keeps peeing on the carpets in my bedroom. He uses puppy pads (now, before everyone starts telling me how bad puppy pads are, I already know, trust me. I never would have started him on them except that when he was very young, he was really sick and I had a common backyard with several other people who had dogs. My vet told me that he wasn't healthy enough to be able to fight off anything that these other dogs may have had, so I had no alternative to using puppy pads.) Now, he is healthy and ready to start going outside. He does pee outside if I take him out, but he is also using one pad in my bedroom and one pad in my kitchen. Since he is still learning to go outside. (Oh, he never poops outside, I dunno if that is important to help you answer my questions) Anyway, recently he has started peeing on my carpet in my bedroom, almost every day. Now, sometimes I know that he is doing it because he knows that I am in the next room playing with my tortoise and/or hamsters and he gets jealous. But most of the time, he will just pee on the carpet right in front of me! (How rude!)
Anyways, now that you know some background, maybe you can help!

How do I get him to stop peeing on the carpet?
What is a really good stain/odor remover?
How can I get him to poop outside as well as pee?
Any other suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated as well!

Thanks so much!
Oh, and just so you know... He was 100% trained to use the pads before a few weeks ago when he started this carpet peeing. So the problem isn't that he was never trained where to go. He always used the pads before!
Thanks again for any help!


Answer
House Training


House training your dog is simple if you follow a few basic rules. Remember that puppies younger than 10 to 12 weeks have little control. Accidents will always happen when teaching puppies to be clean in the house. Be kind and patient, and reward handsomely all outdoor elimination. Always remember that dogs do what works for them. Make outdoor pottying work really well for your puppy.


1) The puppy must have NO time unsupervised in your home. NONE. If you are not directly watching the puppy, it should be in the crate, or outside in a safe area. You MUST watch the puppy at ALL times when loose in the house. Use baby gates, crates, or tie the leash to your belt.


2) The puppy should sleep inside the crate by your bedside. This way you can hear if the puppy should happen to need to go out during the night.


3) You must go WITH the puppy outside for ALL trips for elimination. You must have treats with you. When the puppy is urinating, say "GO PEE PEE" in a nice praise tone of voice the entire time. When she is finished, pop the treat into her mouth at once, and praise praise praise. This should be something she gets at no other time, like tiny pieces of string cheese or boiled chicken. Same for defecation. Say "GO POOP" while she is going, and food reward and praise afterwards. You must observe and reward ALL outdoor potty time.

4) Keep a schedule. Feed at the same time, and walk outside at the same times. Your pup needs at least 4 trips outdoors each day, and 5 is probably better. Pup needs to go out at wake up time, lunch time, 4-5 PM, after dinner or any other meals, and before bed. Younger puppies may need to go out much more often.


5) Use a key word each time you go out. I say "Let's go out!!" in a happy tone of voice each time I'm opening the door to go out with the dog.


6) If you catch the puppy IN THE ACT of eliminating in your house, CLAP YOUR HANDS, say AH AH, OUTSIDE!! And immediately rush her outside. If she finishes there, do your usual food reward and praise.


The keys to getting your dog reliably housetrained are:


SUPERVISION: NO loose time in the house if you are not watching


REWARDS: ALL outdoor elimination MUST be observed and rewarded. If you only do this ONE thing, your puppy will get housetrained.


PATIENCE: Anger and punishment have no place in dog training. Elimination is a natural and pleasurable experience for your dog. You can teach her to not soil your house, but punishment will NOT help. It will only teach the dog to hide when she needs to eliminate.


If you have applied these techniques carefully for 4 weeks and you are still finding spots or piles after the fact, it's time for stronger measures. Roll up a newspaper and fasten both ends with a rubber band. Keep it handy. The very next time you find a spot of a pile that the dog has left behind, whip out that newspaper, and hit YOURSELF over the head firmly several times as you repeat "I FORGOT TO WATCH MY PUPPY".


Works every time.


:D


This article copyright 2004/2007, RedyreRottweilers. Free for unlimited distribution as long as copyright info remains intact.

Dog Goes To The Bathroom On The Floor?!




me16740


Okay so I have an English Mastiff she is 4 months old. We have been trying the crate training but it just dont seem to be working. She eats and goes to the door when she wants out but all she does when she is out is run around and jump and try playing and then as soon as she comes inside she goes to the bathroom on the floor?! How do I fix this? I'm at wits end and tryed about everything I can think of i hate to get rid of her because other then that she is a very great dog. Someone Please Help! And we do praise her when she is out and give her treats when she goes as well.


Answer
House Training


House training your dog is simple if you follow a few basic rules. Remember that puppies younger than 10 to 12 weeks have little control. Accidents will always happen when teaching puppies to be clean in the house. Be kind and patient, and reward handsomely all outdoor elimination. Always remember that dogs do what works for them. Make outdoor pottying work really well for your puppy.


1) The puppy must have NO time unsupervised in your home. NONE. If you are not directly watching the puppy, it should be in the crate, or outside in a safe area. You MUST watch the puppy at ALL times when loose in the house. Use baby gates, crates, or tie the leash to your belt.


2) The puppy should sleep inside the crate by your bedside. This way you can hear if the puppy should happen to need to go out during the night.


3) You must go WITH the puppy outside for ALL trips for elimination. You must have treats with you. When the puppy is urinating, say "GO PEE PEE" in a nice praise tone of voice the entire time. When she is finished, pop the treat into her mouth at once, and praise praise praise. This should be something she gets at no other time, like tiny pieces of string cheese or boiled chicken. Same for defecation. Say "GO POOP" while she is going, and food reward and praise afterwards. You must observe and reward ALL outdoor potty time.

4) Keep a schedule. Feed at the same time, and walk outside at the same times. Your pup needs at least 4 trips outdoors each day, and 5 is probably better. Pup needs to go out at wake up time, lunch time, 4-5 PM, after dinner or any other meals, and before bed. Younger puppies may need to go out much more often.


5) Use a key word each time you go out. I say "Let's go out!!" in a happy tone of voice each time I'm opening the door to go out with the dog.


6) If you catch the puppy IN THE ACT of eliminating in your house, CLAP YOUR HANDS, say AH AH, OUTSIDE!! And immediately rush her outside. If she finishes there, do your usual food reward and praise.


The keys to getting your dog reliably housetrained are:


SUPERVISION: NO loose time in the house if you are not watching


REWARDS: ALL outdoor elimination MUST be observed and rewarded. If you only do this ONE thing, your puppy will get housetrained.


PATIENCE: Anger and punishment have no place in dog training. Elimination is a natural and pleasurable experience for your dog. You can teach her to not soil your house, but punishment will NOT help. It will only teach the dog to hide when she needs to eliminate.


If you have applied these techniques carefully for 4 weeks and you are still finding spots or piles after the fact, it's time for stronger measures. Roll up a newspaper and fasten both ends with a rubber band. Keep it handy. The very next time you find a spot of a pile that the dog has left behind, whip out that newspaper, and hit YOURSELF over the head firmly several times as you repeat "I FORGOT TO WATCH MY PUPPY".


Works every time.


:D


This article copyright 2004/2007, RedyreRottweilers. Free for unlimited distribution as long as copyright info remains intact.




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Kamis, 12 Juni 2014

Only Heartless Idiots Crate their PETS?




YahooDeana


Their PETS !! That's a laugh.
I witnessed a dog in a crate in a laundry room in the house of a friend of a friend.
We went to pick her up - I'd never met her before - and she motioned us in as she wasn't yet ready to leave.
While waiting, I heard a dog whining and yelping. The idiot was busy making up her face so I searched to find out where the crying was coming from and it lead me to the basement. It still took me a while to find the dog as by then it had stopped crying.
The crate was covered with a heavy blanket and when I lifted it up, the dog was drooling or panting to the point of slobber on the floor. No water in the crate and I wondered if the blanket was suffocating him or causing a build up of carbon monoxide.
The dog could barely turn around! I wanted to let him out but he was a big dog and I went upstairs to confront the idiot owner and told her to let him out to pee and give him water.
This turned ugly and she ordered me to leave her house.
I know I was right for sticking up for the defensively dog, but wondering why people have a pet if they just put it in jail - that has less room than a typical gold fish in a small bowl !
this woman was upper middle class and had a Master's Degree.
I've seen many educated people with no common sense who crate their dogs while they're at work or go off skiing or shopping. WHY DO THEY EVEN HAVE A DOG ???? AND WHAT TO DO WITH THIS HEARTLESS IDIOT ????



Answer
My dog has horrible separation anxiety and chewed up my furniture last time I left him alone in the house, so I crate him when I'm at work. He is a pug (small dog) and has a cage made for labs (big dogs) so he has space to turn around in it. I always make sure he has a bone, some toys and a full water bowl. That lady you are talking about should never be able to own a dog - that dog could of died of thirst! You should have a long, polite conversation with her about it. If she still gets angry at you, call animal control.

How do i crate train my dog?




Bob Chaves


How long does it take?
Does my dog have to sleep in the crate?



Answer
Every year, millions of dogs are surrendered to the pounds and humane societies because they are believed to be "untrainable". Their "bad behaviour" includes chewing furniture and shoes, barking too much and ignoring commands - all problems that are not permanent and easily corrected if you take the time to do so.
As difficult as it may be to remember, your dog is not a little person. You cannot reason with a dog to get him to behave the way you would like. Even though they have shared our homes for thousands of years, dogs still retain many of the instincts and characteristics of the wild dogs from whom they are descended. Bred from ancestral wolves, dogs are both pack and den animals and for this reason, most dogs will accept a crate as part of their lifestyle. Like a baby's playpen, a crate or cage is a place in which your dog can stay when you are unable to keep an eye on him.
Choosing a Crate

A crate is a dog's very own special place. When you choose a crate, be sure to select the correct size for your dog. The crate must be large enough for the adult dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position. Crates usually come in two varieties: fiberglass and metal. A fiberglass crate will provide a greater sense of security for your dog; a metal crate is collapsible and will allow for better circulation.

Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

For crate training to be most successful, your dog must be properly introduced to the crate. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new dog home. Equip the crate with water and a blanket or towel. Start off slowly and increase the time gradually. Place the crate out of the way, but not away from the action: your dog is one of the family, and needs to feel he is not being banished when confined in the crate.

Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in the crate after disciplining him. Your dog needs to feel the crate is a happy, secure place. Select a command such as "Into your house". Encourage your dog to enter by tossing a treat into the crate. Leave the door open at first. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes, and praise him with a cheerful, positive voice. Leave your dog with a special chew toy, just for the times he is in the crate.

Scheduling is very important. Ideally, young puppies would not be crated for more than three hours at a time - they cannot be expected to hold their bladders for more than a couple of hours. Adult dogs should not be crated for much more than eight hours. If you must leave your puppy or dog for longer than the ideal length of time, be sure the crate is arranged to provide a bedding area and a papered area to accommodate "accidents". If your dog needs to use the papers in the crate, under no circumstances should you scold or punish him.

Any complaining your dog may do at the beginning is not usually caused by the crate, but by the new controls set by this unfamiliar environment. Do not let your dog out when he whines or complains. By doing so, you will only reward his bad behaviour. When your dog settles down for five minutes, release him from the crate.

Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you may practice leaving him alone for short periods of time. Allow your dog access to only certain areas of your home. As with children, place breakables and dangerous items well out of reach!

Your dog's crate is a tool that should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. It is not intended as a place to leave your dog and ignore him.

While crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. If your dog seems to be taking a long time to come around, do not give up! Your dog can be trained to be a fastidious member of your household regardless of age. Just be sure to give your dog every chance to do the right thing, at the right time, in the right place, and let your dog know you love him for him!

The Golden Rules of Crate Training:

The crate belongs to your dog. It should be off-limits to children.

You are the "pack leader", and you are in charge. Your dog needs to learn this!

Never let your dog out when he is whining. Giving in will make it more difficult to train him.

Remember, you are doing your dog a favour by keeping him safe and out of trouble when you are unable to supervise him.

Your dog's crate is not intended for long hours of use. When you are at home, your dog needs to be out of his "house" and in your company.

Never use the crate as a means of punishment.

Do not place the crate in a draft or in direct sunlight.

Do not leave a collar or tag on your dog when he is in the crate. It may catch on the bars and cause injury to your dog.




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How do u train a dog?




Peanut





Answer
I have found the following excellent training tips by Vivian Bregman extremely helpful over the years in trainng 4 pet:

CIVILIZE YOUR DOG

For most dog owners the following three things are the most important for the dog to learn:

1. Housebreaking,

2. Coming when called and

3. Walking on a leash without pulling.

Everything else varies from owner to owner.

The following are the most important things to remember when you start out to "Civilize Your Dog":

1.NEVER tell your dog to do anything that he can evade.

2.REWARD whatever you want the dog to continue doing while NOT REWARDING (or penalizing) whatever you want the dog to stop doing.

These two statements will help you train the dog for the rest of his life. Remember that rewards are not what YOU consider a reward, but rather, what the DOG considers a reward.

For example: if your dog runs out the front door, he is being REWARDED with freedom. When you call him and he comes and you put him back in the house he is being PENALIZED for coming to you by being put back in the house.

For training purposes a Reward can be verbal praise, petting, food, a ball or whatever motivates your dog. YOU know your own dog -- you know if he would sell his soul for food or for a tennis ball. Make his Reward whatever turns him on, and the time spent finding out what really turns him on will be well worth the effort.

Please notice that I said "Penalize" and not punish. Punishment makes people think of hitting the dog -- which is rarely necessary. The only reason to hit a dog is for anti-social behavior. "Anti-social" is not only biting. A puppy that growls when you go near his bone is threatening you -- definitely anti-social behavior. If not stopped it will probably become a bite.

A "Penalty" can be anything that the dog does not like. It may be a leash jerk, not moving when he's a on leash so there's no walk, or just ignoring him.
If you think that your dog can't or won't learn, think about the things that he has already learned. If you dog has been with you for a few weeks the chances are that he has learned when food is going to be available -- the sounds of the can opener or the opening of the closet door where his food is kept, or even, if he is fed from the table, to beg at dinner time. He has learned that a leash means a walk, that if the front door is left open a crack he can dash out and run for a few hours, and that when he is left alone he can destroy things in the house because he has never been caught in the act.

One of the most important things for you to learn is that it IS possible to teach the dog what you want him to learn. The dog is always learning. You have to learn how to reward the dog so that it is in his best interests to do what you want him to do.

If your dog is destructive when left alone, it is because he has not been caught in the act of doing wrong. See the chapter on crates.

If your dog dashes out the front door, it is because he has been given the opportunity to escape and then is being rewarded by the freedom to roam the neighborhood. If this is your problem, put a ten foot rope on the dog and let him drag it around the house. (called a house line) Just before you open the door step on the rope, or, for a big dog, leave a loop in the end and loop it over the inside door handle. When the dog dashes out the front door you have a handle with which to jerk him back in. After a few times or a few dozen times (depending on the dog) he will catch on that it is painful to dash out the door and he will stop.

Congratulations!! You have just taught your dog a lesson that *may* save his life, and *will*l save your hours of chasing.
As long as he is dragging this rope around the house, if you have a problem with him jumping on people you can solve that too. All you have to do is to step on the rope where it hits the floor. If he jumps up, the rope tightens, giving him an automatic correction. If he doesn't jump up, nothing happens.

Every dog should have two names. One for talking TO him and one for talking ABOUT him or for giving him a command. If you use his name when you are talking about him you will desensitize him to the use of his name. Every time you say his name make it a happy occasion for him. Use his name when you feed him. If you want to give him a snack, instead of saying "snack" say his name. Every time I say my dog's name she thinks that I am saying "snack" and she comes running. Much better than yelling "snack" or "cookie" whenever I want her to come. Much more dignified!!

Most people have a life, aside from training the dog, so that I'm not going to tell you to train the dog for one hour a day. Also, if you have a very young puppy one hour will be much too much for him. Five or ten minutes at a time, two or three times a day will be far better to get the training into the dog's mind.

The purpose of obedience training is to teach your dog to be a well-mannered companion, who is responsive to your commands and who looks to you for leadership. The process of training should be enjoyable for you both, and enhance the bond between you as well.

How Dogs Learn

Dogs learn by associating an action with a consequence. If
the consequence is pleasurable, the dog will tend to repeat the behavior. If the consequence is unpleasant, he will tend not to repeat the behavior.

In training you show your dog the action you wish, helping him to perform it by luring him with food or a toy, or by collar pressures. When he performs the action, you immediately provide a pleasant consequence, by rewarding him with a special praise word and giving him a small treat. This is called "positive reinforcement," and will cause your dog, after several repetitions, to repeat the action.

If you give your dog a command word at the same time that he performs the behavior, he will learn to associate the behavior with the command.

For example, in order to teach your dog to sit, say the command SIT as you help him to do it. This can be done by luring his head up with food or a toy held in your hand, which will cause his rear to sink into a sit, or by use of collar pressure coupled with the pressure of your hand on his rump. The instant he sits, say his special praise word and give him a tiny treat. After many repetitions of this he will make the association between the command word SIT and the act of sitting. He will learn to obey the command by being positively reinforced by your praise word and a treat.

Using A Special Word to Speed Learning

You can speed up your dog's learning a lot by using a very special praise word reserved for the purpose of telling him that the action he is performing is correct and that he will be reinforced for it. You can also use a "clicker" instead of a special word. (Dolphin and killer whale trainers use a whistle for this purpose. You've probably seen this at dolphin shows or on TV. The whistle tells the dolphin that what he did was correct, and he can get a fish to eat.) We suggest using a single word such as "great" or "yes" or "wow" that is different from general praise words like "good boy."

You dog will first need to learn that this special sound, called a "conditioned reinforcer" means something. Teach this at home by saying the word (or clicking your clicker if you are using one) and immediately giving the dog a tiny, succulent food treat. The order is very important. FIRST you say the word, THEN you give the treat. Your dog shouldn't be doing anything special, just say the word and toss the treat. After several repetitions of this you will see your dog startle and look at you when you say the word. That means that he has learned that it means "a goodie is coming." Now you can use your conditioned reinforcer to clearly tell him he has performed an action correctly and will be reinforced for it, with food, a toy, praise, play, or all three.

In order for this to work, you must find something your dog likes and will work for that you can couple with your conditioned reinforcer. For most dogs, tiny pieces of soft, tasty food work best. We suggest tiny pieces of hot dog, cheese, soft-moist cat food, or lunch meat. Buy a cheap belt pack to carry the food in when you are training and at class. Once your dog has learned commands, you will not need to carry food, and can reinforce with praise, petting and play, but using food initially will help him learn much faster.

Remember that your conditioned reinforcer must be given the instant the dog obeys your command and while he is still performing the behavior, and not several seconds later. You will need to train him daily in order for commands to become part of his long-term memory. He needs to be quiet and controlled while you are teaching him. He can't learn if he is wildly excited or not paying attention to you. Therefore, begin his training in quiet, familiar places, and add distractions later as he becomes proficient in his commands.

As you start this obedience course, it will seem like there is a huge amount of things you need to learn and remember - new words, new ways of handling your dog, and new ways of relating to him. Don't worry about trying to learn it all at once. It will all be repeated over the weeks of the course and you'll find it becomes second nature as you gradually train your dog.

Just relax and have fun.

And remember these three things that form the cornerstone of dog training:

PATIENCE

PRACTICE

PERSEVERANCE

It should take a while to teach the dog all this stuff. I am being vague on purpose!! Don't panic if the dog doesn't seem to be catching on in one week. Training takes time. If you doubt that the dog is making any progress, keep a training diary. This will help you see just how often you are training (once a week won't work) and you will be able to see that you ARE getting somewhere.

Best of Luck!

How does one stop a spiteful dog from doing its business in the house?




Cassie Ros


I have a collie/ Dachshund mix. He is less than two-years-old but we don't know his exact age. We got him from the SPCA not even three weeks ago and on his information sheet it read "Lost his home". When we first picked the dog up, I wondered who would give up such a perfect dog, but now I'm starting to figure out why. In the past few weeks of owning him, He's went "number two" on the floor at least once everday day. We've tried caging him, Treating him for doing it right which he will do sometimes, rubbing his snout in it, and we even resorted to slapping him in the nose which is not something we ever wanted to do but we are getting desperate here. We've taken him to the vet but the doctor didn't find anything wrong with him. I know he knows better, I can tell he's just being spiteful.It started out with him going right in front of us until we started placing him in the kennel. He'll go outside if we have a treat for him, he'll even go more than once just to take advantage of me and my rewards, but it won't stop him from doing it again later on. the past week,he's been running up the stairs, going on the floor where we can't see him, running back down the stairs and hiding under the table where we can't get to him. Not only that, But we left him out on the leash outside and he dug a two foot hole in our backyard, chewed at a wire from one of my mom's lamps, and managed to grab(not chew on) anything soft like pillows and stuffed animals and toss them onto the floor so we'd have to pick them all up. He's not good with other dogs so we can't take him to a public place like Petsmart for Obendience school. I'm at the end of the rope and I don't know what to do anymore. Please help me!
Hitting the dog in the nose isn't working. This is true, but we don't hit him hard enough for him to fear us anyways. In fact he starts jumping around, barking, and nipping at our shirts like we're playing with him. What really gets on my nerves is when we take him for a very long walk and he desides to hold it in util we get in the house, hides somewhere, and does his business. That really grinds my gears. especially when he's been in the Kennel all night, and still manages to hold it till he gets back in from taking him out. We've even tried having him in the Kennel, Taking him out for a walk and placing him back into the kennel right after, but he manages to squat while I'm trying to get his leash off and resists me pulling on his collar to get him in the cage, just so he could finish relieving himself. Theres got to be a quick way to stop him from doing this before my dad makes me give him back to the SPCA which I REALLY don't want to do. Dogs(to me) are



Answer
Dogs do not do "Spiteful". They do not possess the reasoning powers to do things out of spite.
Spite is a human trait.
Rubbing a dogs nose in its own excreta or slapping a dogs nose does not teach it to be clean indoors.
It only serves to make the dog hide somewhere else indoors to do its poo and to become wary of its owners.
This dog has lost its home you say. Its probably feeling quite insecure at the moment and bewildered too. Your treatment of him has not helped at all.
This dog needs a firm and fair leader who will install some confidence in in it and it also needs to be house trained again properly, starting from scratch.
There are some websites below that will help you with this.
http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&gs_nf=1&cp=17&gs_id=1s&xhr=t&q=House+training+an+older+dog&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=House+training+an&aq=0&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=5e05badbe80dede4&biw=1280&bih=653

Obedience dog schools are used to dogs that have a problem around other dogs and it would benefit you to join one and learn all about dog training and dog behaviour.
Meanwhile get a crate for him to sleep in at night and give him plenty of walks to tire him out and praise him every time he poops outside.
Rescue dogs often come with baggage and it can take effort, patience and training over some time to make them into well adjusted companions. Hope this helps.




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What kind of dog crate holds up against the best an escape artist?




Mike M


My Siberian Husky just recently turned and keeps destroying his current crate. Once he gets out he destroys the house as well and we come home to a mess more times than not! Obviously he does not like to alone for too long, but if he is just going to rip apart the house while we are gone (out of anxiety), then I would definitely need to look into a new doggy crate that can do better at keeping him locked up and out of trouble. His cage he has now is completely destroyed and the latches serve no purpose as the frame of the door has a hole that he squeezes through anyway. Any ideas for a replacement crate since the metal ones don't hold up?

Here's a picture of our current cage (found online):
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/detail.gsp?image=http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/MP/10/00/24/60/MP10002460205_500X500.jpg&product_id=14498042&iIndex=1&isVariant=false&corpCard=false&type=-9223372036854775808



Answer
My neighbor had crates for her great pyrenees that looked like the cat carriers and they were the safest for escape artists. The sides are firm plastic with plenty of air holes, but not much area where a dog can get a paw in there to try to pry the crate apart.

Yours is a wire crate and large breed dogs that don't want to be crated are often able to get their paws in between the wire sides of those crates to rip them apart, even though it can harm the dog to do so. -!-

my dog ate my couch?




ROBERT D


I have 2 dogs and want to know if it's OK to crate one dog but not the other? I'm assuming not but thought I would ask. I have a nightmare puggle and need help! We adopted her from a family that we know didn't abuse her. She was 6 months old at the time- now about 14 months. She is scared of everyone, but getting better SLOWLY. She ruined our couch a few months ago when we were at work. After a ton of bitter apple she stopped for a couple weeks. We were then gifted a cheap leather couch for a replacement, which she promptly destroyed. My solution was to put a kennel right in front of the dog door so when they enter the house they enter directly into a kennel. We're in AZ so it's too hot to leave them outside all day. Now she is doing her best to destroy my back yard. We have tried petsmart training, toys, etc. The only option left I can see is a crate, but I don't want to have to start crating my 4yr old springer now. Shouldn't these puppy problems end soon? Any suggestions?


Answer
You can crate one dog without crating the other. I do, and they get along fine. I also have an adult dog and a puppy. The adult dog was crated when he was a puppy, but now he is only crated when we travel. The puppy still chews, digs, and a plethora of other atrocities (including the great tulip massacre of 07) so I feel your pain. He is great when he is supervised, and he is wonderful in his crate. He actually hangs out in his crate even when he doesn't have to. It will take your puppy a couple weeks to get used to it, but I think crate training is a wonderful idea.




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Dog crates and car travel?




Michele


We are looking at getting a new car soon - it will be a 4WD or SUV type vehicle with an enclosed tray, large enough to sleep in as we love camping.

We are fairly new dog owners (of 5 months or so), so haven't ever been camping with dogs before. I was looking at getting two crates to go in the back of the car so the dogs would be safe, but I know virtually nothing about crating dogs. In Australia (where I'm from) crating is almost unheard of. However, from what I see on YA, it seems pretty big in the States though. So can you give me some advice?

What do I need to know about crating dogs?
How do I train them to enjoy the crate?
How do you transport your dogs when you travel with them?
Has crating worked for you?

I know nothing!! Please inform me!

Oh and by the way this is what I was looking at:
http://www.petsplus.com.au/pet-shop.asp?id=659
Any good?



Answer
If you plan on transporting your dog in the crate, you need to use a non-folding molded plastic airline-style crate (http://www.dog.com/prodimages/P2627.jpg) or a rigid aluminum crate (http://www.gundogsonline.com/Img/EStore/Products/11606.jpg) for safety reasons.

Collapsible crates and wire crates are not safe for car travel. Collapsible crates, if impacted in car accidents, can fold down on your dog. Wire crates, if impacted, can come apart at the welds, the wire can bend inwards or break, and your dog can be injured or escape.

what can I use for dog-crate chewing dog?




cheryl


My 80 lb. dog chews her crate - the plastic tray and all of the blankets I put in there. I have replaced the tray several times, but she still destroys it. What can I use for a tray, and is there any comfortable bedding which is hard to destroy?
Thank you so much for all of the answers I have received. Now I have some great ideas.
She is in a crate only when we go out.



Answer
Get the enclosed plastic Vari-Kennel that doesn't have any tray at all, and don't put any bedding in it at all. This dog is going to end up with an intestinal blockage one of these days. Safety comes before comfort in my books.




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Rabu, 11 Juni 2014

What kind of crate for a bernese pup?




Ash <3


I know they have different types of crates but I just dont know what kind to get a plastic crate or soft crate or wire crate...? We just adopted him from the shelter and he has some separation anxiety and is not housebroken he is 7 months old 30 ish lbs.


Answer
A soft crate is too flimsy for a Bernese, so you can toss that out.
As for plastic vs. wire, that's really about your preference. I like plastic better because it restricts how much the dog can see, so if I'm walking through the house, they don't wake up as much as they do in the wire crate and don't know if I'm up or not.

The separation anxiety is normal and there are some things you can do to help him, but it requires training. Be sure that regardless of what crate you get, it's comfortable for the pup or he'll hate it.

New puppy is driving me insane...can anyone help?




T


He is a 9 week old shih tzu. I take him out to potty every 20-30 minutes. He always goes outside but, from time to time he goes in my kitchen where I have him blocked off. He always knows when hes wrong because when I go near it he runs.

He also still pees in his crate at night. He only has enough room to turn.

I am getting desperate. He is just not getting it at all. What else do I do? I honestly cannot take anymore.



Answer
The other answers are good about potty training--he just can't hold it overnight, and probably not as long as he sometimes has to during the day. It's up to you to prevent his needing to go indoors. He has a very tiny bladder, and it can't hold much. It may take a few months to develop his bladder capacity.

Incidentally, he doesn't "know when he's wrong" about peeing, he just knows when you're upset with him, and probably hasn't a clue why. He's not acting ashamed--that's fear of your anger.

If he was raised in a crate or cage that he had to potty in, you may need to use a different type of crate (such as plastic vs wire vs canvas), which might help him understand that this is his sleeping/eating place, not his potty place. You also need to reward him extravagantly when he goes outdoors so he really wants to. A few really tasty treats (very small ones) an excited voice, and praise and play will make a very fun party for him each time.

You also need to watch him ALL the time; if you don't catch him in the few moments when he's circling to find a place to go, you'll have a puddle to clean up, that's not his fault. Try keeping him on leash with you so you can watch him every moment he's indoors; or crate him whenever you can't.

If all this is simply beyond you, you may need to set up an indoor potty place and praise him for using it. For a small dog this can work.




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How did your dog react in flight? PLEASE HELP!!?




BOHOCHIC


I am taking my 4 month old pug with me from grande prairie ab to victoria bc and I was wondering how your dog reacted while on the plane? He will be with me in the cabin and I am a little worried about how he will react (ex: barking, whining, etc) I have to stop in edmonton from 8am to 12:30 pm and I am also worried about that, and what I will do with him. He will need to go to the bathroom and eat, am I allowed to take dog food with me in my carry on??? PLEASE HELP!


Answer
Most airports have a pet relief area so they can go to the bathroom during layovers. Usually those are within security so you don't have to go out and check back in through security. As for the way he acts, it depends on the dog. My family has traveled with their pets several times and they have always behaved, but one time my sister's dog got diarhea in her kennel from her nerves. But the flight attendants handled it like pros. Just be prepared for things like that and don't be surprised. I think you are supposed to hold off on feeding them for a certain amount of time before a flight.

I am flying with my parent's 2 year old Maltese next week and I also have a 4 hour layover. I am trying to find out of the airport restaurants allow the dogs in if they are in their kennel! Good luck, I am sure it will all go smoothly :)

I can't find a Entlebucher Mountain Dog anywhere in Alberta, Canada-where should I look?




Cassie B


I've looked almost everywhere - kijiji, most all local breeders (edmonton, AB) and a few other places. Where else can/should I look? Please help me out :-)


Answer
Tonya Cairns
Canterwood Entlebuchers
500 Canterwood Crt.
Anmore BC V3H5E1
H - (604) 461-8644
O - (604) 315-4626
tcairns@telus.net

Tim and Norma Clausnitzer
Spencer Kennel
712 Spencer
Brighton, MI 48116
H - (810) 923-0870
C - (810) 923-0339
clausnit@yahoo.com Visit our website!

Rebecca Hahn
Brunswick Entlebuchers
131 Olympia Park Rd
Grass Valley, CA 95945
(530) 273-7090
entles@gotsky.com

Jan and Laura Hill
Hills to Mountians
9282 Colorama Way
Lakeside, CA 92040
(619) 561-7382
ronandjan9@cox.net Visit our website!

Rita Felder Kaufmann
Sacoda Kennels
4648 Lasalle Line
Petrolia Ontario N0N 1R0
H - (519) 882-2976
O - (519) 384-8604
info@fieldfarms.ca

Francois & Sandra Luethi
Helvetica Hill
16 Tuscarora Drive
Centerport NY, 11721
(631) 261-2473
samossblad@verizon.net

Wendy Mark
Entlebuchers of
Hahn's Peak
PO Box 969
Clark, CO 80428
(970) 846-8078
hahnspeak@yahoo.com

Kathy Marshall /
Gina Thomas
Eagleheart Entlebuchers
PO Box 1377
Veneta OR 97487
H (541) 935-0136
O (541) 914-4917
katlin@entlebuchers.net Visit our website!

Bill & Dru Patterson
Tierra Alta
PO Box 716
20029 SE Tillstrom
Gresham, OR 97030
(503) 658-3030
druwallpat@msn.com
Visit our website!

Robin Snell
Zen-Dog Kennel
5980 Twin Rivers Dr
Manassas VA 20112
H (703) 878-6732
O (703) 915-2936
rssnell1@hotmail.com

Jennifer Spirer
Belden Hill Entlebuchers
16 Deacons Lane
Wilton, CT 06897
(203) 761- 1422
spirer@optonline.net
Visit our website!

Jan & Barry Vincent
Adhem Entlebuchers
189 W. Fairview Circle
Alpine, Utah 84004
(801) 756-7888
bvincent@xmission.com

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STUD DOG & OCCASIONAL LITTERS

Sandra Guillemette
Walnut Acres
198 High St
Sanford, ME 04073
(207) 324-4006
sandig@metrocast.net
Visit our website!

Kathleen Kinney
Wildhorn Kennel
4200 Caylor Court
Ashtabula, OH 44004
(440) 997-5629
wildhorn@suite224.net
Visit our website!

Karen Runge
Moratel Entlebuchers
PO Box 137
Mahone Bay, NS BOJ 2EO Canada
(902) 624-1055
moratel_entlebuchers
@yahoo.com
Visit our website!

Tracy Thomsen
Courageous
4910 West Saanich Rd Victoria BC
Canada V9E 2E6
H (250) 658-0332
O (250) 381-5889
info@pet-pampering.com
Visit our Website!

Jakob Weibel
Maritana
2910 Rte 202
Franklin, Quebec Canada JOS 1EO
(450) 827-2000
vcassidy@mmic.net
Visit our website!

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STUD DOG ONLY,
NO PUPS

Dr. &
Mr. Steve Cohen
75 Chinchilla Lane
Reno NV 89511
(755) 853-4054
sscohen@earthlink.net
Visit our website!

Fran Fleming
PO Box 10159
Pittsburgh PA 15232
(412) 363-5227
fx@ix.netcom.com

Melissa &
Matt Gugliotti
Trailsend Entlebuchers
111 Craigemore Circle
Avon, CT 06001
H (860) 673-6360
O (860) 221-5712
melgugliotti@avonfd.org

Donna Kruzel
182 Twilight Drive
Seven Hills, OH 44131
(216) 520-0731
kruzzin1@msn.com

Jami Lockhart & Brent Richard
Bay Pines
1487 Pioneer Trail
South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150
(530) 577-4603
jamilockhart@yahoo.com
Visit our website!

Melinda Lumpkin
1101 Silver Maple Lane
Hayward CA 94544
(510) 727-9146
JosephLumpkin@aol.com

Sarah Puckitt
Matrix Entlebuchers
851 Goodwin Ave
San Jose, CA 95128
H (408) 286-6172
O (408) 205 7266
isee@sonic.net

Jen Shaul
Shaul Entlebuchers
PO Box 2266
La Jolla, CA 92038
j_shaul@hotmail.com
Visit our website!

Michael Steiner MD
Norwest Entlebuchers 12073 30th Ave SW
Seattle, WA 98146
(206) 226-6287
ideasputtowork@msn.com


Bryan & Lois Williams
Double Shoe
18605 16th Ave
Surrey, BC
Canada V3S 9W7
(604) 535-0543
brylois@telus.net

Marlene Wilson /
Marc Edwards
Entlebuchers of
Crescent Moon
111 Hunter Dr
West Hartford, CT 06107
H (860) 655-4640
O (860) 521-8484
entlebucher@comcast.net
Visit our website!

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what brand of dog crate for an adult pit bull?




goldangel2


I have rscued a blue nose pit and will need to start the crate training soon since I live in Las Vegas and he cannot be ouside in the summer. I am confused as of what brand / kind of crate to buy since it needs to be strong and non/chewable (considered the kind of breed). Does anyone have pit bulls and can give me ny advise on the matter.

**** If you do not have a pit, or do not know anything about pits and just would like to give your opinion about these kind of breed, please save your time! I am tired of people mean remarks. BE RSPECTFUL! thank you! *****



Answer
MidWest or Precision brand folding wire crates are the strongest. Don't waste your money on a cheap wire crate.

What's crate training for dogs????

Q. i'v aways heard of crate training but i have no idea what it is


Answer
The instructions that follow are designed to teach a dog to enjoy being in a crate. The speed with which you progress depends upon the dog and whether he already dislikes the crate. If your dog has a history with the crate and is now reluctant to go in, get a different type of crate and work through the steps very slowly. There are wire crates, plastic airline crates, and mesh crates. The mesh crate is the most portable but is inappropriate for dogs who are big on chewing. The mesh and airline crates provide the most privacy for the dog. Some dogs like to have a blanket or towel draped over the wire crate to give a more âdenlikeâ feel. Truly crate-phobic dogs may need preliminary training with crate-like structures. For instance, you might wish to teach the dog to walk under a suspended tarp, step between two upright boards, or lie down in the bottom half of an airline crate (top removed) before ever introducing him to a crate. Difficult dogs also benefit from training to sit, down, stay, and to step forward and back, as this gives you more precision in instructing the dog on exactly what behavior youâd like him to perform.




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What vehicle (van or SUV) can fit a dog crate in it plus 4 passengers?




kcoley2126


I am going to be renting a car to drive to the beach for a weekend with my family. It's a surprise trip for my mom and we will be bringing her dog along. We need to bring his crate so we can leave him at the beach house while we go out to dinner. He will not necessarily be traveling in the crate on the trip down to the beach. So I just need a car that is big enough to hold the crate in addition to having seating for 4 adult passengers.

I was thinking a mini-van and hoping that stowing the 3rd row of seating would give me enough room for the crate. Does this seem reasonable. I am waiting on the exact dimensions of the crate, but right now I am estimating that it is 54x35x45.

I would appreciate information on specific cars that you have been able to fit crates into and if you think I will need to go up to an SUV (vs. a minivan) to have enough room.

Thanks!



Answer
A SUV will be more comfortable for all of you - In addition to the dog crate, you'll also have luggage.

Hertz rents Ford Expeditions - That would be nice and roomy for all of you and all of your stuff.

The crate is actually the BEST place for the dog when traveling. In case of an accident, he will be less likely to be seriously injured (Same concept as a seat-belt - Make sure you strap down the crate) and can't escape onto the highway in case of broken windows.

What do I do with destructive great dane?!?




Little Kit


THIS DOG CHEWS UP AND DESTROYS EVERYTHING. When I leave the house for work.. Only a few hours this dog chews up everything!!!! He ate my hot tub, my couches, my bed, my shoes, me glasses, my carpet. EVERYTHING I FREAKIN OWN!! HOW DO I MAKE HIM STOP... PLEASE I am losing my mind!!!!!!

He has chew toys, he gets plenty of attention, excercise, he has everything, WHATS WRONG!
He is almost 10 mo. Where can I find a crate big enough.? thats the only thing i can think of to make him stop.
Will i ever be able to trust him out of a crate?



Answer
You need to crate this dog for his safety and your sanity.


One of my close friends breeds/shows Danes and here are the crates she uses: http://www.petedge.com/Midwest-Starter-Series-Crate-54x35x45-In-MW12454.pro




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Selasa, 10 Juni 2014

Crate Training Puppy?




El payaso


My Puppy is a 6months old Lhasa Apso. I got him from a kennel. I am crate training him. But he went CRAZY the first night, he began to chew on the crate and CRY CRY CRY CRY all night. I was afraid he might yank his teeth biting on the crate ( THE CRATE IS DOUBLE MESH COVERED NOT A METAL CAGE). What Should I do??

1. Should I Lock the crate at night after I walked him and tired him out so that he doesn't walk around the house?
2. He goes WILD and crazy in the crate biting the fabric as if he wants to rip through it; should I scold him firmly to quiet him or simply ignore?
3. Should I put treats in the crate to calm him down?

Mind you he is 6months old.
The crate is double mesh hard fabric I highly doubt he'll break through it. The crate is in the kitchen I keep two dimmed lights on. Even if I leave him free in the kitchen he CRIES CRIES CRIES CRIES. What other ways are there to make Him STOP crying.



Answer
You would be surprised: Even average sized dogs if frustrated enough can break out of alot of mass market low end crates. If they don't, they often hurt themselves trying. For some dogs who have anxiety, separation, or frustraton issues it can take a month or two for them to learn to settle down in the crate. Generally it is a mistake for the first crate training session to involve you locking the door and leaving the house or going to bed. Care has to be taken at each stage of the process where the dog has a problem to work on positive association and desensitization. The crate is not really there to physically confine the dog. It's to create an environment where he wants to lay down and be calm until someone comes to let him out. Some dogs take to it pretty quickly and naturally, alot of others need to be trained to be calm in one.

If this has already started off on the wrong foot, you should begin by removing the crate from the area and getting it out of the dog's view for a few days so she calms down. For the first month or so that you work on this you will probably want to do doggie day care or some other sort of option that keeps the dog from being alone in the house rehearsing bad behavior while you train her to relax inside the care.

I would start by frequently tossing high value treats in there and allow the dog to explore on her own without the door being closed. Once she is comfortable with this, which may take a few days, start asking for a sit, and then a down while she is in the crate. Once you get to this point, start working on desensitizing her to you closing and re-opening the door. I had great success with a dog by simply closing it, opening it IMMEDIATELY, and giving her a treat as long as she remained in a calm stay. She started to focus more on the fact that she could anticipate something good happening when the door opened again than on being upset that it was closed. This is important. If you close the door on an anxious dog, she will only get more anxious. If you close the door on a calm dog, it is easier to keep her calm while you work on the next stages of the process. A good clue to the dog's true state of mind is if she will eat something while sitting in the crate with the door closed, she is getting pretty comfortable with the situation.

From here I would work on closing the door for progressively long periods of time, starting with a few seconds, then a minute, then a few minutes, then half an hour, an hour, and so on. During these training sessions you are not leaving the room. You're staying where the dog can see you. I would say, correct verbally if she digs at the crate, paws at it, or tries to bite it. Do whatever you have to do to get her stop. If she just lays there and whines, ignore it. It is typically pretty hard to make a dog stop whining with a voice command and it's better to ignore it so she sees it has no effect on you.

Once the dog can lay there calmly for an hour or two while you are there, start getting up and moving around the room and the rest of the house. Jingle your keys, take your shoes on and off, and repeatedly go through all the rituals you normally do before leaving the house.

Then leave the house. First for a minute, then 5-10 minutes, then a half hour, again gradually building up to 4-5 hours. I am having success getting a dog who escaped from multiple crates to accept crating using this process. We have problems, setbacks, and delays, but we work through them. You must use positive reinforcement but at the same time make it clear that the crate is becoming an inevitable part of the dog's life and whining, barking, and escape attempts will not make it go away. There will be some times where you will need to sit calmly and act like he does not exist throught the whining, the barking, and the tantrums. Eventually they stop.

what is your thought on crating dogs at an early stage like puppyhood?




bettyb





Answer
It can be a life saver... litterally. I had a friend who refused to crate train. Kept the pup in the bathroom. He got into something under the sink and it killed him a day later. If she had crated him, he would not have destroyed the toilet paper, peed all over the towels every day or died from poisoning.

I think crate training is a wonderful thing and it gives the dog what they instinctively want... a den.




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