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Kamis, 12 Juni 2014

How do u train a dog?




Peanut





Answer
I have found the following excellent training tips by Vivian Bregman extremely helpful over the years in trainng 4 pet:

CIVILIZE YOUR DOG

For most dog owners the following three things are the most important for the dog to learn:

1. Housebreaking,

2. Coming when called and

3. Walking on a leash without pulling.

Everything else varies from owner to owner.

The following are the most important things to remember when you start out to "Civilize Your Dog":

1.NEVER tell your dog to do anything that he can evade.

2.REWARD whatever you want the dog to continue doing while NOT REWARDING (or penalizing) whatever you want the dog to stop doing.

These two statements will help you train the dog for the rest of his life. Remember that rewards are not what YOU consider a reward, but rather, what the DOG considers a reward.

For example: if your dog runs out the front door, he is being REWARDED with freedom. When you call him and he comes and you put him back in the house he is being PENALIZED for coming to you by being put back in the house.

For training purposes a Reward can be verbal praise, petting, food, a ball or whatever motivates your dog. YOU know your own dog -- you know if he would sell his soul for food or for a tennis ball. Make his Reward whatever turns him on, and the time spent finding out what really turns him on will be well worth the effort.

Please notice that I said "Penalize" and not punish. Punishment makes people think of hitting the dog -- which is rarely necessary. The only reason to hit a dog is for anti-social behavior. "Anti-social" is not only biting. A puppy that growls when you go near his bone is threatening you -- definitely anti-social behavior. If not stopped it will probably become a bite.

A "Penalty" can be anything that the dog does not like. It may be a leash jerk, not moving when he's a on leash so there's no walk, or just ignoring him.
If you think that your dog can't or won't learn, think about the things that he has already learned. If you dog has been with you for a few weeks the chances are that he has learned when food is going to be available -- the sounds of the can opener or the opening of the closet door where his food is kept, or even, if he is fed from the table, to beg at dinner time. He has learned that a leash means a walk, that if the front door is left open a crack he can dash out and run for a few hours, and that when he is left alone he can destroy things in the house because he has never been caught in the act.

One of the most important things for you to learn is that it IS possible to teach the dog what you want him to learn. The dog is always learning. You have to learn how to reward the dog so that it is in his best interests to do what you want him to do.

If your dog is destructive when left alone, it is because he has not been caught in the act of doing wrong. See the chapter on crates.

If your dog dashes out the front door, it is because he has been given the opportunity to escape and then is being rewarded by the freedom to roam the neighborhood. If this is your problem, put a ten foot rope on the dog and let him drag it around the house. (called a house line) Just before you open the door step on the rope, or, for a big dog, leave a loop in the end and loop it over the inside door handle. When the dog dashes out the front door you have a handle with which to jerk him back in. After a few times or a few dozen times (depending on the dog) he will catch on that it is painful to dash out the door and he will stop.

Congratulations!! You have just taught your dog a lesson that *may* save his life, and *will*l save your hours of chasing.
As long as he is dragging this rope around the house, if you have a problem with him jumping on people you can solve that too. All you have to do is to step on the rope where it hits the floor. If he jumps up, the rope tightens, giving him an automatic correction. If he doesn't jump up, nothing happens.

Every dog should have two names. One for talking TO him and one for talking ABOUT him or for giving him a command. If you use his name when you are talking about him you will desensitize him to the use of his name. Every time you say his name make it a happy occasion for him. Use his name when you feed him. If you want to give him a snack, instead of saying "snack" say his name. Every time I say my dog's name she thinks that I am saying "snack" and she comes running. Much better than yelling "snack" or "cookie" whenever I want her to come. Much more dignified!!

Most people have a life, aside from training the dog, so that I'm not going to tell you to train the dog for one hour a day. Also, if you have a very young puppy one hour will be much too much for him. Five or ten minutes at a time, two or three times a day will be far better to get the training into the dog's mind.

The purpose of obedience training is to teach your dog to be a well-mannered companion, who is responsive to your commands and who looks to you for leadership. The process of training should be enjoyable for you both, and enhance the bond between you as well.

How Dogs Learn

Dogs learn by associating an action with a consequence. If
the consequence is pleasurable, the dog will tend to repeat the behavior. If the consequence is unpleasant, he will tend not to repeat the behavior.

In training you show your dog the action you wish, helping him to perform it by luring him with food or a toy, or by collar pressures. When he performs the action, you immediately provide a pleasant consequence, by rewarding him with a special praise word and giving him a small treat. This is called "positive reinforcement," and will cause your dog, after several repetitions, to repeat the action.

If you give your dog a command word at the same time that he performs the behavior, he will learn to associate the behavior with the command.

For example, in order to teach your dog to sit, say the command SIT as you help him to do it. This can be done by luring his head up with food or a toy held in your hand, which will cause his rear to sink into a sit, or by use of collar pressure coupled with the pressure of your hand on his rump. The instant he sits, say his special praise word and give him a tiny treat. After many repetitions of this he will make the association between the command word SIT and the act of sitting. He will learn to obey the command by being positively reinforced by your praise word and a treat.

Using A Special Word to Speed Learning

You can speed up your dog's learning a lot by using a very special praise word reserved for the purpose of telling him that the action he is performing is correct and that he will be reinforced for it. You can also use a "clicker" instead of a special word. (Dolphin and killer whale trainers use a whistle for this purpose. You've probably seen this at dolphin shows or on TV. The whistle tells the dolphin that what he did was correct, and he can get a fish to eat.) We suggest using a single word such as "great" or "yes" or "wow" that is different from general praise words like "good boy."

You dog will first need to learn that this special sound, called a "conditioned reinforcer" means something. Teach this at home by saying the word (or clicking your clicker if you are using one) and immediately giving the dog a tiny, succulent food treat. The order is very important. FIRST you say the word, THEN you give the treat. Your dog shouldn't be doing anything special, just say the word and toss the treat. After several repetitions of this you will see your dog startle and look at you when you say the word. That means that he has learned that it means "a goodie is coming." Now you can use your conditioned reinforcer to clearly tell him he has performed an action correctly and will be reinforced for it, with food, a toy, praise, play, or all three.

In order for this to work, you must find something your dog likes and will work for that you can couple with your conditioned reinforcer. For most dogs, tiny pieces of soft, tasty food work best. We suggest tiny pieces of hot dog, cheese, soft-moist cat food, or lunch meat. Buy a cheap belt pack to carry the food in when you are training and at class. Once your dog has learned commands, you will not need to carry food, and can reinforce with praise, petting and play, but using food initially will help him learn much faster.

Remember that your conditioned reinforcer must be given the instant the dog obeys your command and while he is still performing the behavior, and not several seconds later. You will need to train him daily in order for commands to become part of his long-term memory. He needs to be quiet and controlled while you are teaching him. He can't learn if he is wildly excited or not paying attention to you. Therefore, begin his training in quiet, familiar places, and add distractions later as he becomes proficient in his commands.

As you start this obedience course, it will seem like there is a huge amount of things you need to learn and remember - new words, new ways of handling your dog, and new ways of relating to him. Don't worry about trying to learn it all at once. It will all be repeated over the weeks of the course and you'll find it becomes second nature as you gradually train your dog.

Just relax and have fun.

And remember these three things that form the cornerstone of dog training:

PATIENCE

PRACTICE

PERSEVERANCE

It should take a while to teach the dog all this stuff. I am being vague on purpose!! Don't panic if the dog doesn't seem to be catching on in one week. Training takes time. If you doubt that the dog is making any progress, keep a training diary. This will help you see just how often you are training (once a week won't work) and you will be able to see that you ARE getting somewhere.

Best of Luck!

How does one stop a spiteful dog from doing its business in the house?




Cassie Ros


I have a collie/ Dachshund mix. He is less than two-years-old but we don't know his exact age. We got him from the SPCA not even three weeks ago and on his information sheet it read "Lost his home". When we first picked the dog up, I wondered who would give up such a perfect dog, but now I'm starting to figure out why. In the past few weeks of owning him, He's went "number two" on the floor at least once everday day. We've tried caging him, Treating him for doing it right which he will do sometimes, rubbing his snout in it, and we even resorted to slapping him in the nose which is not something we ever wanted to do but we are getting desperate here. We've taken him to the vet but the doctor didn't find anything wrong with him. I know he knows better, I can tell he's just being spiteful.It started out with him going right in front of us until we started placing him in the kennel. He'll go outside if we have a treat for him, he'll even go more than once just to take advantage of me and my rewards, but it won't stop him from doing it again later on. the past week,he's been running up the stairs, going on the floor where we can't see him, running back down the stairs and hiding under the table where we can't get to him. Not only that, But we left him out on the leash outside and he dug a two foot hole in our backyard, chewed at a wire from one of my mom's lamps, and managed to grab(not chew on) anything soft like pillows and stuffed animals and toss them onto the floor so we'd have to pick them all up. He's not good with other dogs so we can't take him to a public place like Petsmart for Obendience school. I'm at the end of the rope and I don't know what to do anymore. Please help me!
Hitting the dog in the nose isn't working. This is true, but we don't hit him hard enough for him to fear us anyways. In fact he starts jumping around, barking, and nipping at our shirts like we're playing with him. What really gets on my nerves is when we take him for a very long walk and he desides to hold it in util we get in the house, hides somewhere, and does his business. That really grinds my gears. especially when he's been in the Kennel all night, and still manages to hold it till he gets back in from taking him out. We've even tried having him in the Kennel, Taking him out for a walk and placing him back into the kennel right after, but he manages to squat while I'm trying to get his leash off and resists me pulling on his collar to get him in the cage, just so he could finish relieving himself. Theres got to be a quick way to stop him from doing this before my dad makes me give him back to the SPCA which I REALLY don't want to do. Dogs(to me) are



Answer
Dogs do not do "Spiteful". They do not possess the reasoning powers to do things out of spite.
Spite is a human trait.
Rubbing a dogs nose in its own excreta or slapping a dogs nose does not teach it to be clean indoors.
It only serves to make the dog hide somewhere else indoors to do its poo and to become wary of its owners.
This dog has lost its home you say. Its probably feeling quite insecure at the moment and bewildered too. Your treatment of him has not helped at all.
This dog needs a firm and fair leader who will install some confidence in in it and it also needs to be house trained again properly, starting from scratch.
There are some websites below that will help you with this.
http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&gs_nf=1&cp=17&gs_id=1s&xhr=t&q=House+training+an+older+dog&pf=p&sclient=psy-ab&pbx=1&oq=House+training+an&aq=0&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=5e05badbe80dede4&biw=1280&bih=653

Obedience dog schools are used to dogs that have a problem around other dogs and it would benefit you to join one and learn all about dog training and dog behaviour.
Meanwhile get a crate for him to sleep in at night and give him plenty of walks to tire him out and praise him every time he poops outside.
Rescue dogs often come with baggage and it can take effort, patience and training over some time to make them into well adjusted companions. Hope this helps.




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Senin, 28 April 2014

Help with dog destroying house?

Q. We adopted a Lab/Shepherd mix two years ago. He was good as gold for two weeks, and then little by little started getting the nibbles. Soon it was full-blown house destruction - he chewed coffee tables, ripped a couple of couches to shreds, tore up books and any paper he could find, ransacked garbage, etc. We were soon 'dogproofing', which basically meant we couldn't have ANYTHING sitting around within his reach (and he's TALL). This didn't stop him from going after furniture though...

We took him to the vet and found he had a sensitive stomach, so we started feeding him special food. This helped a little, but the behavior soon started again. We walked him every day multiple times, ran in the yard with him, bought him hundreds of dollars worth of toys...still, the behavior continued. We contacted a trainer, who gave us a crash course and then advised crate training. He was good in the crate for about a month, but one day he chewed his way out of it and destroyed more furniture (and his nose, in the process - it was a metal crate - that was a $200 ER bill). So...no crate.

Finally we took him back to the vet and told him we'd tried everything to no avail and were at the end of our ropes - he gave us an anti-depressant that he's been on for a year now, that's supposed to calm seperation anxiety. We also moved to a house (from the apartment), where he had a yard of his own. These together seemed to do the trick and he's been wonderful...

Until a few days ago. We took him to the vet with an ear infection, and ever since, he's been back to his old ways. I came home last night to find the pantry ransacked, the garbage can knocked over and ALL of our window dressings (and I do mean, ALL of them) torn from the windows and shredded. I'm talking everything from curtains to wooden blinds.

We both work, which is not something that's going to change, so my question is...what the heck do I do? Why the sudden relapse?? I'm so discouraged and upset...just when I thought he was basically trustworthy, this happens. We cannot afford to have him, in one fell swoop, destroying everything we own when he has a bad day. Suggestions??? HELP!!
Just in response to the suggestion that we don't love him - obviously we do. Otherwise he would have been gone a long time ago. He gets nothing but attention and affection when we're home. We have no desire to get rid of him, we just want to help him through whatever it is that's making him do this.


Answer
If you leave a dog alone all day I am not surprised by what he does. You should take him for a long walk before you leave him and come home at lunchtime. You must then rush home from work and take him for another long walk, dog who are on there own all day need extra walks. As well as doing the above you should pay a dog walker to take him out in your absence, this is cheaper than replacing your furniture.

You could also use the following method to help with his Separation Anxiety. I know that several askers have tried this and it works because I have had private emails. Nevertheless he still needs lots of long walks.

Separation Anxiety.

If your dog suffers from separation anxiety donât give him free access to every room in your house when you leave him. . If you allow him free access you are doubling his burden. As well as having separation anxiety he will think that he has to guard every room in your house.

If he is restricted to one room he will not see you leave. You could also con him into thinking that you are always at home by carrying out the following procedure.
Try to do this when you are at home all day, or in the evening when you are there. After your dog has had a long walk, put him in a room with his comfortable bed, this should be a room where you will leave him if you need to go out and where your dog will sleep at night.
Walk out of the room and close the door. Open the door immediately and go back into his room, close the door behind you and try to ignore him. Pretend or actually do something which excludes your dog, for example if he is in the bathroom you could do a bit a cleaning for a couple of minutes. Then walk out of the room, go back again immediately and continue with the pretence. Keep doing this to ensure that your dog wonât feel isolated and eventually leave a small gap before you go into his room again. Eventually, increase the gap before going back into his room. When you know that your dog is asleep stop going into the room, however you MUST try to go onto the room before he wakes up and starts to cry. If you carry out this procedure for a couple of days, your dog will always think that you are at the other side of the door. I do this when I get a new puppy and this PREVENTS separation anxiety.
Donât neglect his long walks and playtime in the garden whilst you are re-training him, he needs his fun
When you are leaving your dog on his own please donât make a dramatic exit, or this will give the game away. Simply put him into his room and walk out. When you come home donât give him a big hello, just walk into his room and let him out for a pee. You can then play with him and give him cuddles.
Try to get a friend or a professional to take him out for pees and poos, if you need to leave him for any length of time and never leave a dog alone for more than three hours.
Until the Separation Anxiety is resolved, he should stay in his room at night, after you have done the door routine. .Although you may enjoy cuddling him in bed, this will add to his dependency.

Designer Dog Crate --- Quick 10 Points !!!!?




bonner


I have searched everywhere and can not find a dog crate that isn't just ugly black or silver criss-cross wire.

I saw one once at the Pets Pajamas store in Arkron Ohio that was white wires that formed little flowers -- sooo charming! So I know they have to be out there.

Can anyone tell me where to look to find something more stylish for my puppy (and apartment) ??

THANKS!!!! :)-



Answer
I don't use crates, but I have to laugh at some of the responses you're getting. It needs to be attractive because the HUMANS are going to see it. And some humans care how attractive their furnishings are.

Just take a look around Youtube and see the filth and poverty some dog owners think is just fine to live in. (The dogs are cute enough, but look behind them and see the garbage and debris, and weeds in the yard, and ratty furniture and filthy dog dishes strewn about. ...Sad.) Some of us have nice homes, and wouldn't want the decor ruined with anything like an ugly dog crate, ugly dog dishes, bags of dog food lying about, blankets on our sofas, and on and on.

I have a custom cabinet in solid oak and walnut exclusively built for the dog food and accessories. It's lovely, and most people think it's just a lovely piece of furniture. They have no idea I had it made just to keep dog-related clutter out of sight.

I'm very proud that people visiting my home typically exclaim how beautiful and clean it is, and how good it smells. I have multiple pets. I don't live in squalour or with K-Mart furnishings. No one has to. There are lots of terrific products on the market. And with a little imagination, anything can be made.

If I were to use a crate, and had a small dog, it might be one like this:

http://www.pamperedpuppy.com/features/200407_bowhaus.php

I've seen other custom designs for end tables made into dog crates (again, for small enough dogs). I also had a custom piece of furniture built to look like a small chest of drawers, but it's really my cat's litterbox. With a hidden entrance on one end, it eliminates the whole of issue of where to put the litterbox. It's right there in the hall. I clean it every day, so there's no odour. The top drawer even provides extra storage. (The bottom two are false drawers that swing open to allow access for cleaning.)

As I said, I've never used crates. And I also have Great Danes, so any crate would have to be huge. (I guess that would mean converting an armoire, rather than end tables, huh?) ;-) In any event, good luck. No, you're not wrong to want a crate that won't be an eyesore in your home.




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Jumat, 05 Juli 2013

How to beak my dog of a bad habit?

dog crate end table on dog-crate-1
dog crate end table image



KL


My 3 year old pit mix has been really bad about taking food off tables or anywhere its left even the trash can and tearing everything apart and eating it,. I know its not from being hungry because she did it after she just ate! We can leave the house for 5 mins and come back and a bad left on the coffee table has been torn apart, we normally crate her but we've been trying to give her a chance without it, we are at our witts ends, any suggestions on how to get her to stop?


Answer
Oh boy a pittie. They are very stubborn but loving dogs. Every time she does it you can scald her in a very stern voice and say "No!" You can tap her nose but not hard. After you have scalded her do not baby her. When she comes up to your plate say "No! Go lay down!" I have several time had to get up and lead my dogs to their bed and do it over and over but soon they understood. Do not hit a pittie because like Caesar says that just causes them to want to keep doing it and belive me it does not help. I would suggest crating her though until she is broken. If you have not yet teach her the basics. It will help.

Has anyone ever captured and tamed a feral kitten?




Betsy S


I have one in a large dog crate, with food water and litter. The kitten is 5 or 6 weeks old. It has been 2 days and I still can't touch it, it spits and growls. Does anyone know how long it takes for the kitten to learn to trust me? Thanks


Answer
If it is really a feral kitten, and not a stray, it could take months to tame it. Two days is not even a drop in the bucket, as the saying goes.

We have tamed six feral kittens which were between 6 and 12 weeks of age.

It is usually a difficult and lengthy process.

We just finished taming a 7 or 8 week old kitten and it took over 8 months to get her to the stage that we felt we could give her the run of the house and even now, about three weeks after we let her loose in the house, we cannot always handle her and she often runs away from us. She will come onto the bed with us because the bedroom is where we had her caged and she got used to us being in there, on the bed, and she would come up and we could handle and play with her and she would sleep on the bed.

It will be a long time before you get your kitten to the point that you can let it loose in the bedroom.

Keep the cage (I've always wondered why people call them crates) on a table in your bedroom that is high enough so the kitten can see you on the bed and won't have a view that consists of only legs and feet - as would be the case if the cage were on the floor.

How big is your cage? It should be at least 24" x 36" and 24" high. If it is smaller than that, get a bigger one.

Add, or have someone add, a shelf in the cage to provide a second level of area for the kitten. The kitten is going to be in the cage for quite awhile and you need to provide as much space as possible.

Make the shelf about 2/3 as long as the cage. Make the width of the shelf about 1" less than the inside width of the cage. Make it out of plywood that is at least 3/8" thick or a similar material that is as strong as 3/8" plywood.

Support it with two pieces of lumber cut down so that they will slide through the sides of the cage and are about 2" longer than the width of the cage. If you don't have a table saw to cut this sort of lumber, get some long wooden dowels and use them. Dowels usually come in 2' and 3' lengths, get the 3' lengths if your cage is 2" or wider.

Drill holes in one end of each of the support pieces. Slide the supports through the side of the cage to support the shelf. Put one support right at the back of the cage and position the other so that it will be about 1" back from the front of the shelf. Use wire or string or cable ties through the holes in the ends of the supports to fasten them to the cage grid.

Drill holes in the corners of the plywood and use cable ties or string or wire to tie the plywood to the support pieces to keep the shelf from shifting.

That will give the kitten the space it will need.

One important thing - name the kitten and then talk to it a lot and use it name. Talk to it a lot.

First you want to work at it so that you can reach in and touch the kitten without it going ballistic on you and hissing and growling, trying to get away or trying to bite or scratch you. This may take weeks - it just depends on you and the kitten.

You might want to wear a pair of heavy work gloves but never try to force the kittten to let you touch or handle it. You can wear the gloves for protection but you should not put yourself in the position that you actually need the protection. Go slow and don't force the kitten.

The next step is to get to where you can take hold of the kitten, inside the cage, and hold on to it without it going berserk.

Once you can hold the kitten in the cage, you want to move to being able to pull the kitten out of the cage and hold it just outside the door of the cage. Don't force it and be ready for the kitten to try and get away. If it is fighting to get loose, put it back in the cage. As time goes by, you should be able to hold the kitten, just outside the cage for longer and longer.

Any time you have the cage door open, have the bedroom dor closed. You do not want to have to run down the kitten when it escapes into the house.

The next step is to let the kitten loose in the bedroom - with the door closed. However, you can't take this step until you are confident that you can get the kitten back into the cage when you are ready to go to bed. You don't want the kitten loose in the room until you can handle it enough to be able to put it back in the cage and it should spend the night in the cage and whenever you are not there with it.

The next step is to be able to allow the kitten to be loose in the room when you are not there but getting to the point of letting the kitten out of the cage at all will take quite a bit of time and effort on your part.

As I said before, this whole process can possibly take months.

I don't have a lot of room here so I'm going to end this now.

Go to our site about Simon and his diabetes and email me using the Email link on the left hand side of the web pages. The site is at http://www.sugarcatsimon.com

That URL will redirect you to the actual site at http://sugarcat_simon.home.att.net - I've registered the domain name www.sugarcatsimon.com but haven't put up a new site I'm working on yet.

http://www.sugarcatsimon.com is easier to remember than the other one :-)

Email me and I'll reply with the next few steps you need to follow.

Good luck

Bob




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