Starting a dog kennel.......?

Q. In the future when I have my own house I will be building a kennel where my border collies, australian shepherds, and papillons will be staying.

1. How much did it cost you to build a kennel?
2. How long did it take?
3. Do you have any pictures?
4. Do you know a site where I can get some ideas or a design?
5. Do you have any suggestions?

Right now I live with my parents and all the dogs live inside. I only breed and show papillons right now, but later i hope to add aussies and BC's. Do you think it would be a good idea to build three different kennels for each breed? What about a training building or something to hold obedience and conformation classes in?

Answer
the cost between building one now and maybe 10 yr from now would vary greatly. Before you even start to think about a kennel you should study everything you can on the dogs you intend to raise. Most breeders only have one or 2 breeds. it is hard to manage with more. Find a local show breeder that will help answer some of your questions and maybe let you work for them some. See how they are set up. I would start with the paps since you are familiar with them and have some experience in the ring. I wish you the best of luck!

We are undrgoing an IRS audit on our dog kennel for 2003-2004 and now 2005.?

Bird Dog L

We began the operation in 1998 and have not shown a profit due to unforseen circumstances. They are trying to say we are ahobby and not a for profit. We have made money and have been making changes to the operation a little at a time. We raise and compete for championship titles on the dogs so that when we breed them, people want the pups due to their parents records to either compete with themselves or to add to their breeding program. I have spent quite a while developing the right lines to breed. Just like with show or race horses. Our unforseen problems which slowed us down were #1 Had two mortgages for two years due to our other home not selling during that time. #2 approx 6 months before I went independent as an investment rep, 9-11 hit , no one wanted to invest and my income suffered as well as our perfest credit. #3 during that same time frame my husband owned his business and the company he was invoicing was not paying in full for a year. We are fighting this! any suggestions?

Answer
You are in a difficult fight. Dog breeding cases are tougher than horse breeding because there is not as much financial "upside" in dog breeding. Still, it is possible to win.

The "A" or "F" question is your subjective intent in pursuing the activity. If you convince the auditor that your GOOD FAITH (not "reasonable" -- which means that the standard is subjective, not "objective" -- what matters is what you intend, not what a "reasonable tax auditor" would intend) PRIMARY (meaning of first importance, not necessarily your only motive) MOTIVE is to make a profit, you will win. Still, this is tough. Based on your question, it sounds like years 5, 6 and 7 are being audited. Those are not considered "early start-up years" for dog breeding. You need to show why you have not made a profit yet. This can be done.

Start by giving the IRS evidence about other kennels in your breed that have made a large profit, and show how you have followed their path.

Show your good books and records.

Show the value of your assets used in the business (your dogs, plus whatever other assets you have).

Show the earning potential of the top stud dogs in your breed, and bitches as well, and explain why you believe that you can achieve similar results.

Formulate your responses in terms of the 9 points in Treasury Regulation 1.183-2(b). This is the format that the IRS will understand. You can get a copy of this regulation at a law library, or from a tax attorney or a CPA. It is also available on-line at http://www.law.harvard.edu/library/services/research/guides/grfs/specialized/tax_13.php. This is important.

The set-backs that you cite in your question will not help you. They do not relate to your dog breeding business. How about the market conditions in your breed? If they have been depressed, this could be a factor that would help you.

If you can afford a professional representative, that is helpful too, but not essential.

Only you can know what your state of mind was during those years. If it was primarily to make a profit, then go for it and do not give up. Go to the Appeals Division of the IRS if the Examination Division will not believe the truth. You get a fresh look from an independent person at the Appeals Division.

Put everything in writing. Talk about changes in the dog business that you have made to increase profitability.

Talk about the experts with whom you have consulted, both about breeding and showing dogs, and if possible, about the "business" side of the dog business. Demonstrate your own expertise, either by results in shows, or positions in dog breeding trade organizations, or even testimonial letters from other breeders or judges.

Have you taken any sales training, for the benefit of your dog business? If so, bring this fact to the attention of the IRS.

If you have had success in other businesses, show evidence of your success in other entrepreneurial endeavors.

There is an extensive discussion of the relevant tax law and cases at http://tax.cchgroup.com/FocusOnTax/2005-07/Hobby_Losses_TAXES.pdf. You might want to read it. It is available online without cost. CCH is an excellent publisher of tax information.

You might also look at resources for horse businesses and adapt them to your use. For $69.95 plus shipping and handling, there is a training video tape called: FIGHTING BACK: SUCCESSFULLY REPRESENTING YOUR HORSE BUSINESS TO THE IRS. It is available through an equine tax attorney's website at www.husbandlaw.com. It is set for horses, not dogs, but the applicable parts of the law are the same, and it designed to teach people to represent themselves.

You have a tough fight. The fact that they are adding a third year to the audit probably means that the examiner has already made up his or her mind, and is going to write a report saying that you owe additional taxes. It may be that your only chance will be in the Appeals Division (which usually gives a fair opportunity for a taxpayer to correct an error made by the examination division -- if you are in the right, do not miss your chance to present your case to an Appeals Officer) or in Tax Court. Good luck.

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what is the smallest breed of dog?

sdmelissa3

Answer
The smallest dog recognized by the American Kennel Club is the Chihuahua (tea cup Chihuahua is not recognized by the AKC).
Not only is the Chihuahua the smallest breed of dog in the world, it's the only "natural" toy breed. That means that the Chihuahua is naturally small and, unlike toy poodles and other small dogs, it hasn't been purposefully bred to be a smaller version of a larger breed.

Small dogs?

i've been looking for a type of dog that is small and dosent require much grooming.

Answer
So many suggestions for High Maintenance groom dogs! 1/2 of your responders suggested dogs that I groom all the time!

Pass on:
Yorkies, Shih Tzu, Lhasa's, Westies, Long Coat Doxie, Bichons, Poodles and mixes of these breeds! They all require regular grooming!

Pugs: Shed like snow storms! Pass!

Sheltie: Crap shoot, some have thin coats that require low maintenance, Most have heavy double coats that were bred for thickness to protect the dog from extreme weather. Lots of regular brush outs required, if not given, they end up matted up and gross.

5 suggestions: smooth coat Chihuahuas and Min Pins for low maintenance, but they can be delicate so you must protect them from injury. The same with Italian Greyhounds but they are rare and so costly. They just require regular nail trims as ALL dogs do. They can have a regular bath to keep the low shedding down. Anything from once every couple of weeks to once every 3 months. Min Pins can be unfriendly and suspicious of people. There are mini smooth coat Doxies but because of the elongated back, they can develop back problems. My last suggestion is the Boston Terrier. Very smooth coat, playful, loving and less delicate than the first four and usually a lot less nervous. They need about the same amount of grooming as the other four.

Remember ALL pure breeds are prone to breed specific ailments and inherited health problems. You could go to your local shelter and search the kennels for a smaller, older pup or dog that has the type of fur that is short like these pure breeds above, real smooth.

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Dog & Crate...I need advice!?

Jerome J

I am about to own a pitbull mix in about a week depending whether or not if im ready for it. I currently live in a 1 bedroom apartment (people say I am crazy by choosing a pit mix due to my living conditions). This will be my 1st dog but I have trained with k9 units for the past 4 years. I will be able to take it out for exercise daily for long periods of time. I have no concerns about maintainance, grooming, purchasing food, etc. I am only concerned about 2 things....housetraining it, and its crate. Is there even a crate that is big enough to house a pitbull that weighs 45-60 lbs (im sorry im uneducated on crates) and what are crates used for? (it seems like a prison for troubled dogs) As housetraining is heavily concerned. I am very afraid because my whole apartment is carpeted but I am expecting accidents to occur but I do not want this dog to continue pissin n shittn inside the house. I will be able to take it outdoors everyday. Any advice will be helpful. Thank you for your time.

Answer
Yes you can get crates for dogs that size any pet store or even walmart or target would have them. Crate train him in the beginning. when you can't be there to watch him he needs to be in the crate it will also help house train him because he won't want to go to the bathroom in the crate. Take him out for a walk first thing in the morning then about 30 minutes after he eats. Then just watch him for signs that he might need to go. At night about an hour before your ready to walk him for the last time before bed take his food and water up so he can't have anymore until morning. I did this with my dog and she did have some pee accidents in the house but never and poop accidents, well unless she is sick and she is 4 years old and has only pooped in the house a grand total of 3 times. Once they learn to hold it they can go a long time. When I'm at work she has waited 12 hours between walks with no accidents.

Dog potty problem behavorial?

wezl4

We adopted a German Shorthair Pointer about 2 months ago. He is 2 1/2 years old fixed. He has adjusted pretty well, but he marks about twice a week. This is out of control, and I dont know what to do. We let him outside very often, but he will do it even when we are home but very sneeky like. Our other shorthair has never done this, she is perfect in the house(4 years old). The vet said it is behavorial? What can we do? We love him and the kids are attached, but I cant let a dog distroy my house. All help appreciated. Thanks. P.S. the vet ruled out any medical problems.

Answer
Introduction
Territorial marking is a very common behavior for dogs. It is also very frustrating for dog owners. This behavior can sometimes happen when the dog gets older.

Stopping the behavior requires a combination of managing the behavior and teaching your dog where it is unacceptable to urinate.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate
How to Keep a Dog From Marking Territory
Things You'll Need
Leash
Collar
Crate
Treats
Patience
Steps
1Step OneThe first step is to spay or neuter your dog. Studies have shown that 60 percent of male dogs will cease marking once they have been neutered. In females, the percentage is even higher.
2Step TwoUse a crate when your dog is left alone. Managing your dog's behavior is crucial when it comes to territorial marking.
3Step ThreeBring your dog out on a leash to teach and reward your dog. You have to teach your dog where it is acceptable to urinate.
4Step FourKeep a close eye on your dog. In order for your dog to learn that it's unacceptable to mark, you have to catch your dog in the act, not after. Rubbing your dog's nose in his urine after the fact is not a good idea.
5Step FiveClean up is very important. You need to clean all the areas that your dog has marked. If you use any product that has ammonia in it, it will make the behavior worse. Ammonia smells like urine to a dog. This will cause your dog to mark over the area that you have cleaned. Also, most commercial cleaning products will not completely remove the scent to your dog so he will continue to mark in the same spot.

Use a product like Nature's Miracle that is specifically designed for cleaning pet urine. It naturally breaks down all the enzymes and completely removes the scent.

Clean using a product like Natures Miracle or Petzorp. These products have enzymes that naturally break down the smell.
6Step SixUse a black light to find all the places that your dog has urinated. A black light will reveal all the spots when you turn out the lights and walk around with the black light. Once you have found all the places your dog has marked, clean each spot with Nature's Miracle.
7Step SevenTerritorial marking will occur when there is stress added to the dog's life. A new baby, new dog, bitch in heat etc. If you can determine what the underlying problem is, help your dog to adjust and the territorial marking behavior will be resolved much quicker.
8Step EightMost dogs that mark are dominant. The owner should implement leadership exercises and strive to be the leader in the household.
9Step NineBasically it boils down to proper management, proper clean up, becoming the leader, spaying or neutering your dog and finding out what the underlying problem is. By following the steps outlined in this article you will see results.
Tips & Warnings
Keep a close eye on your dog.
Spay or neuter your dog.
Make your dog work for attention and food.
Some dogs will mark when they see another dog walking by their house. Restrict areas where your dog can see out the window.
Don't punish your dog after the behavior has occurred.
Some dogs don't accept change well. Moving the furniture or adding a new piece of furniture can cause some dogs to mark.
Introduction
Dogs mark their territory with urine. Even though a dog may go outside to empty his bladder, he may still mark indoors to mark his territory. Indoor marking can also be brought on by anxiety. Consult with your veterinarian if your dog seems to suffer from anxiety. Urine marking is usually a small amount of urine on a vertical surface. There are steps you can take to eliminate this bad habit.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Things You'll Need
enzymatic cleaner
area to confine your dog in
leash
belly bands or dog pants
Steps
1Step OneFirst, determine whether or not your dog is marking and not having accidents. Some indicators that your dog is marking territory are--he is not altered, he is leaving small amounts of urine on vertical surfaces, he lifts his leg frequently on walks, he urinates on new things brought into the house, can see other animals from a window or has contact with other animals, or has conflict with other pets in the house.
2Step TwoManage your dog's movement while he is indoors. Keep him on a leash, or confine him to a small area of the house when you cannot be with him. You may also consider having him wear a belly band (or dog diaper if your dog is female). The belly band must be used with supervision as it is not a solution, but a way to keep even drops of urine from successfully landing on your walls and furniture. Often stopping the accidents from occurring for a few months will get rid to the behavior.
3Step ThreeDo not allow your dog to stop at every tree and tire to mark while you are out on a walk. You should keep moving, only stopping at a location of your choosing to allow him to empty his bladder. Ask him to do an obedience cue (if you have taught him how) before releasing him to go potty.
4Step FourClean previously marked areas with an enzymatic cleaner designed to remove pet stains and odors.
5Step FiveMake previously marked areas inaccessible to your dog by blocking it off, moving furniture, and keeping him in an area away from his favorite marking place. If this is not possible, make the area undesirable by making the surface unpleasant such as laying on office chair roll around on the floor with the spiky side up, or for smaller areas, there are spiky mats on the market made for this purpose. You may try dog repellent sprays or indoor barrier system which use a signal that triggers a spray collar. There are also canned citronella sprays which are triggered by movement. These sprays are traditionally used in gardens to keep pests out.
6Step SixIf a new person in the house is causing your dog to assert his ownership, have that person walk him, feed him, and do positive reinforcement obedience cues with him. If the new person is a baby, have the baby present during these pleasant activities and do not lavish much attention on the dog without the baby present.
7Step SevenTry to resolve arguments between your dog and other family pets. If their is a dog bed in question, toss out the favored bed and introduce two new ones. Take up all bones and toys unless you are there to supervise the play.
8Step EightBlock access to window and doors that will allow your dog to see other animals that are outside. He may just be marking to warn them to stay away from his house.
9Step NineIf you have tried everything you can think of, consult your veterinarian to rule out any health issues. Ask him to refer you to a trainer that specializes in behavioral issues if your dog has received a clean bill of health.

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My dog hurts him self in crate HELP!!!?

horsegirl

My 9month old boy boxer. Has crate problems! We have to put him in there when were gone. we cant leave him out he distroys the house. When we put him in the crate he goes in easy. but when we come home his nose is raw and bloody. Hes thirsity and there is pee everywere. I dont know what to do!!! He has to stay in his crate for about 6 hrs a day 5 days a week. what should i do!!! Please Please Please help!!!!!!!!!!
He gets run for about 10 minutes before he goes in crate. goes potty before. gets pillows blankets chews treats babys ect.

Answer
A 9 month old dog should be able to stay in a crate for 6 hours without urinating. I think the problem lies in exercising the dog more and spending time BEFORE crating to make sure the dog has urinated/defecated before crating.

Also, you may consider a crate that is not wire. But I would really suggest more exercise. Boxers are not laid back dogs. They need obedience training and exercise much like most other dogs need

You may also consider taking your dog in for a wellness exam at your vet to make sure there are no urinary tract problems.

Is the crate big enough for this dog? The dog must be able to stand STRAIGHT up and be able to stretch the whole body out. If your crate is too small this may also be causing the problem.
.

Why would dogs fight with each other?

Loves Dogs

Why would two dogs fight when they live together?

I have a 9 month old Shepherd/Collie mix who is spayed. I've had her for 6.5 months. I recently rescued a Golden Retriever/Pyrenees mix directly from a neglect case - he's four and neutered. Actually from my parents. We've had him for maybe three weeks. They get along great and play together all the time. They are always together. This morning they broke out into a fight in the house! I don't know what happened. Usually there is growling over food or a bone, but none of that was around them. What happened? I try to leave them out of their crates while we are gone, but not more than 2 hours at a time. Now I'm afraid to leave them out alone if they are going to fight. I don't need to come home to bloody dogs! What could have gone wrong this morning?
He has never played with toys so he doesn't have a big interest in them, but he is learning. There was a toy where they were playing and got into the fight. I feed them next to their crates in a different room. It was a loud fight, no blood, but they were really going at each other. I broke them apart and the young one lunged for one more attack.

Answer
I have 2 pyrs and an Aussie mix. Your dogs have the potential for getting along just great.

It's good that your Shep/Col is female and your Golden/Pyr is male. You have less fighting between a male/female pair than a same sex pair.

You have to be a strong Alpha Pack Leader.
You have to understand that these dogs need to establish their place in the pack.

A 4 year old male will assume he should be the alpha dog.
A 9 month old dog is at the right age to challenge any older dog to become alpha.

Before you got the 4 year old, your female was the ONLY dog, so she was the alpha dog. Now her right to be alpha is challenged by his age and his size. He's bound to be considerably bigger than she is.

SO... like it or not, some fighting will go on to establish who's THE alpha dog. One is alpha male; one is alpha female. One must be the alpha dog and she was and doesn't want to lose her position, but he wants it also.

I have trouble at times with my two males fighting, and have found that, while I don't always recognize the infraction, my Aussie (the omega dog) sometimes does SOMETHING wrong and my male pyr attacks him. You may have believe theere was no reason, but you are wrong. You just don't know what the reason for the fight was.

Pyrs have a whole set of rules. She was there first, so she sees herself as alpha. He's pyr, and she may have done something he sees as an "infraction" of pyr rules.

I stop fights inside the house as it can damage the home. Also, neither of my boys will back down, even though my male pyr is the alpha male. When I pull my pyr off my Aussie, as I pull him up, I find the Aussie hanging from his neck where he's got a bite on the pyr and won't let go. So it takes two of us to separate these boys.

As Pack Leader, you can intervene. It's your right. But, if they haven't determined who is alpha, then your intervention can confuse and delay that determination being made.

IF you already see that one is alpha, then there was simply an infraction done by the one who's not alpha and the alpha was punishing the other for the infraction.

IF you already KNOW one is alpha, then:
1) alpha dog is fed first
2) alpha dog is allowed out the door first
3) alpha dog is allowed in the door first
4) alpha dog is given treats first
etc. etc. etc.

Got it? You can't treat one as alpha right now and the other as alpha later today. If you do that, you confuse the issue. And for your dogs to be happy ONE must be alpha and each must know it's place in the pack.

Go to these websites and read up on and learn how to be Pack Leader.

Join a Pyr group. You can get some good feedback from other owners of rescued dogs, and pyrs, and several also have Aussie's.

Good luck with your challenge. @->--

p.s. I hope you understand that all dogs do play fight. It's not a serious fight unless one is baring it's teeth and snarling with an angry look on it's face.

If their fight was actually serious, then don't leave them loose in the home alone when you're gone till they settle who's alpha. It may take some time, so you have to keep an eye on things. Learn what the problem is by watching carefully and trying to think like a dog.

Your added details:
They don't want to harm each other. That was an alpha fight.
You can choose to treat her as alpha, becasue she was, but by his size, he might take it away from her.

My dogs play "king of the hill" The pyr who can consistently knock the other one down became the alpha... and that was my girl way back ... and now they are evenly matched... but she remains alpha.

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Little dog help for apt. living?

arkiegirl3

My only child left home on Sat and I am experiencing the Empty Nest syndrome. I think a playful puppy will be a good companion and help get my spirits up. I live in an apartment and need ideas for small, short-haired dogs that won't grow too big.

Please - no chihuahuas- those are sooo ugly!
Cookie - I am home 24/7....disabled but not handicapped, so I can go out often with the dog. I've never trained a dog - ever, so although I'd have the time, I don't have the experience of doing it. Thanks for the questions.
Mya - thank you for the question...although I love cats, my sister lives in the same apt building and vists often, and she is severly allergic to cats. Also, I think a fun, playful pup will help lift my spirits better than a sleepy cat will.

Answer
There's the Dachshund (wiener dog), Brussels Griffon, Boston Terrier, Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Toy Fox Terrier, Rat Terrier, etc. We need to know a lot more about your lifestyle to suggest a breed that would fit in well. How much time you have to exercise the dog, what you're looking for when it comes to energy levels, trainability, how much time you are away at work, etc. It all depends. There are a lot of smaller breeds that would probably be a good fit, but i'd need a bit more to go on to really suggest what would be a good dog for you.

Edit: That helps a little bit more. It's good that you're home all the time to care for a puppy considering they need a lot of care when it comes to things like potty training. Because of the apartment life, I wouldn't suggest the Miniature Pinscher. I own one that is currently sleeping in my lap, but she's a handful. She barks at anything and everything, they are very energetic and while intelligent, they also like to wander and explore so they can be quite the little escape artist. Not quite right for an apartment.

The Dachshund would do pretty well in an apartment. The French Bulldog may as well, but the bulldog is known for some health problems. Not sure if you have any preference on the short faced breeds. The Italian Greyhound is pretty docile and while they do have energy, they're more of a one person kind of dog. They don't need all that much exercise, are small enough for an apartment, and very friendly and loving. They're all pretty intelligent, and would fair well living the apartment lifestyle. You can check shelters or rescue organizations. They have plenty of smaller dogs that you can meet first hand. Small breed puppies are unlikely however.

As for training, all you'll need is a basic book on basic training. Sit, stay, lay down, drop it, things of that nature. They're fairly simple to teach. All you need is consistency. For instance with sit. Tell the pup to sit, and push them into the sit position. Pick up his bottom, say sit again, push him into the sit position and then give him the treat. Do this a few times just so he can get the idea. Soon enough, he will do it himself. Then praise praise praise. You can even hold the treat above their head and move it back. They'll naturally go into the sitting position when you do this, but it generally only works for "sit".

As for potty training, get a crate. A crate is gold when it comes to potty training. So when you go to get the supplies that you'll need for the dog such as food, dishes, toys, or anything you're picking up, get a book on training your puppy. They help tremendously for both you and the dog.

Has anyone ever kennel trained a Gold Retriever?

mcnppo1

If so how long did it take for the puppy to stop crying/howling? Is there anything I can do to help the process along?

Answer
Look at it from his point of view-- he's lonely!

How old is the dog? By kennel, do you mean a big outdoor kennel run or a crate? The following is for a crate, but is easily adapted to introducing a dog to an outdoor kennel as well.

You need to introduce the kennel/crate slowly. Make it a good place to be. Put in a few toys and a yummy treat. Shut the door for a few seconds, then open it. Gradually increase the time you leave the dog in the crate.

Any dog or puppy is going to go through a stage where they throw an absolute FIT about being confined. You just have to wait it out. If you release the dog while it's howling, it will take twice as long for it to be quiet the next time. You may have to wait several hours. Once you hear silence, open the crate and take the pup outside, then give a tiny treat when you put him back in the crate. Many times during my dogs' puppyhoods, I left the bedroom to use the bathroom during the night. When I would leave the room, the puppy would start crying. I spent many nights sleeping on the floor outside my bedroom for 20 - 30 minutes until the pup was quiet and I could go back in, take the pup outside, and go back to sleep. A few weeks' with interrupted sleep now will pay off in the future.

Also make sure you aren't expecting too much too soon. A puppy can generally 'hold it' at night for one hour longer than his age in months. For example, if your pup is 3 months old, he can probably go four hours overnight without having to relieve himself. During the day, your pup will need to go out more often.

An older dog can easily go overnight or for several hours during the day. My dogs go into their crates when I'm gone for the day and sleep the whole time. If you have an older dog that is just not used to the crate, take the time to get him acclimated to the crate, then put him in it, throw in a good treat, and let him work it out. He may carry on and howl for a couple of hours, then he'll relax, eat the treat and go to sleep. That's when you can let him out. It won't take long and you will have a dog that goes to sleep and rests quietly when crated.

Be patient. It may take a few weeks for a dog to become comfortable in the crate and view it as his den. Never use the crate for punishment, and it will eventually pay off.

Here's a link with more detailed information about crate training: http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

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What is the best way to help my dog get over ...?

Austin is

His separation anxiety I do believe he has it bad we can't even leave him alone. When he's left in a room by himself he just cries and wines and after awhile he starts barking. It's so bad even when he's in my boyfriends big fenced in backyard with other dogs to play with if someone isn't out there he cries and barks. One time we left him in his crate so we could run to the store ( we had to because we have an older dog who may bite him if not supervised) and he cried and barked the whole time and he pooped in and out of the crate when we got home and let him out he was so excited like he hasn't seen us in days we were only gone for a few minutes. Any way to help him get over this because it's starting to be a pain having to take him everywhere.

Answer
I did a study of 30 dogs that successfully worked through sep anx and found there several key components to solving it. If you can answer these questions, they will help you to work through it successfully.

The clicker or a marker or treats can be used but are not necessary. You then must add the phasing out of both clicker, then treat to all training. Personally, I think it's better to avoid using one as being alone should be a default behavior just like a loose leash. Your presence becomes the reward for him being calm.

1. Is the dog getting enough daily heart-raising exercise? For medium-sized active breeds, 2x40 min sessions a day. Smaller dogs may need less but still need to raise their heart rates.

2. Is the dog being fed too high a protein or fat diet that gives him more energy than he needs and so he puts it into sep anx?

3. Do you use the 20:20 rule? That is, ignoring the dog for 20 minutes before you leave and for 20 minutes after you come back. That means no eye contact, talking or touching. If you need to put him out of or into the house or crate, do it with no talking, touching or eye contact if you can help it. Only when he is calm and forgotten that you have come home can you cuddle on the couch etc. What you are trying to do is flatten the emotional hills and valleys that usually occur with arrivals and departures. This helps your arrivals and departures to become less exciting.

4. Have you trained him to do graduated departures?
That is, teaching him that you can leave in small steps.
Walk to door and put your hand on door and then turn back around and walk in and sit on couch (or ingore him and do the dishes etc). Next you put hand on door and open it a foot, then close it and go back to what you were doing. Next open it 2 feet, close it, go back to what you were doing. Yada yada until you can open door, walk out and come right back in with no reaction whatsoever. For some dogs, you may need to proceed in smaller intervals of one inch.

Next you start using the 300 Peck method for time. Leave, take a step out, close the door and count one one thousand, then come back in. Next take a step out, stay out to the count of one one thousand, two one thousand and step back in. Next count to three one thousand. If he starts a fuss, a little whine, scratch- anything, start back at one second again and build back up. Each repetition shows him that he can be alone for those few seconds. And hours are made up of seconds!

You may need to start training your dog to allow you to leave a room first, as some dogs can't tolerate their person being out of sight, never might out of the house.

For extreme cases, you may also want to teach the dog to do down stays starting close in, then using 300 peck to training further out, then out of the room with a door or baby gate between. These are huge steps for some dogs so take it slow!

How small the time increments you train depends on your dog. You may have to start with 1 second, or maybe a minute, another dog maybe 10 minutes. Once he get past 5 minutes, you can increase your time outside the door by 15 second intervals. Once past 30 minutes, 2 minutes. Once past 45 min, 5 minute intervals. Of course if these don't work for your dog, you make the increments smaller. Better to err on the smaller side and take longer as he will then build his duration more slowly and be more confident that you will be returning and he can spend time alone!

5. Have you figured out what his triggers are?
Your getting your keys and purse, putting on your coat, your shoes etc. Take each of these items one at a time, then together and practice grabbing them, or putting them on and leaving but coming right back in. If he reacts at just taking them, put them back and sit back down again. Do this many times and for many sessions so he learns that just because you take them, doesn't mean you are leaving. This process desensitizes him to the triggers.

6. Next, when these no longer trigger behavior, add them together with the graduated departures above, starting at the beginning and progressing.

7. Does he have treats/toys available to him while you are gone? It is always a good idea to have stuffed Kongs and toys strewn around while you are gone to give him something to redirect any anxiety he has. There are only available to him while you are gone so it becomes something he looks forward to. Keep in mind, he will only use these if he is not too stressed. Most dogs will be able to use these as you progress in the being alone training.

8. Does your dog like being confined or not? Being confined in a crate or pen or room helps for some dogs, and makes it worse for others. Some dogs are happiest if they can see what is going on around them (see out a window). Leaving a piece of old clothing with your smell on it may help too. Keep in mind it may be in tatters when you come home, or it may become a cherished item!

9. Will another pet help?
Gett

Designer Dog Crate --- Quick 10 Points !!!!?

bonner

I have searched everywhere and can not find a dog crate that isn't just ugly black or silver criss-cross wire.

I saw one once at the Pets Pajamas store in Arkron Ohio that was white wires that formed little flowers -- sooo charming! So I know they have to be out there.

Can anyone tell me where to look to find something more stylish for my puppy (and apartment) ??

THANKS!!!! :)-

Answer
I don't use crates, but I have to laugh at some of the responses you're getting. It needs to be attractive because the HUMANS are going to see it. And some humans care how attractive their furnishings are.

Just take a look around Youtube and see the filth and poverty some dog owners think is just fine to live in. (The dogs are cute enough, but look behind them and see the garbage and debris, and weeds in the yard, and ratty furniture and filthy dog dishes strewn about. ...Sad.) Some of us have nice homes, and wouldn't want the decor ruined with anything like an ugly dog crate, ugly dog dishes, bags of dog food lying about, blankets on our sofas, and on and on.

I have a custom cabinet in solid oak and walnut exclusively built for the dog food and accessories. It's lovely, and most people think it's just a lovely piece of furniture. They have no idea I had it made just to keep dog-related clutter out of sight.

I'm very proud that people visiting my home typically exclaim how beautiful and clean it is, and how good it smells. I have multiple pets. I don't live in squalour or with K-Mart furnishings. No one has to. There are lots of terrific products on the market. And with a little imagination, anything can be made.

If I were to use a crate, and had a small dog, it might be one like this:

http://www.pamperedpuppy.com/features/200407_bowhaus.php

I've seen other custom designs for end tables made into dog crates (again, for small enough dogs). I also had a custom piece of furniture built to look like a small chest of drawers, but it's really my cat's litterbox. With a hidden entrance on one end, it eliminates the whole of issue of where to put the litterbox. It's right there in the hall. I clean it every day, so there's no odour. The top drawer even provides extra storage. (The bottom two are false drawers that swing open to allow access for cleaning.)

As I said, I've never used crates. And I also have Great Danes, so any crate would have to be huge. (I guess that would mean converting an armoire, rather than end tables, huh?) ;-) In any event, good luck. No, you're not wrong to want a crate that won't be an eyesore in your home.

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My dog pees on things like bags and beds help?

Curiously

He has been doing this for a while, I know about a dog's bad memory and we never catch him doing it so we don't punish him, we rarely yell at all and he seems to do it on plastic like things like tolex and bags and somtimes bed quilts.

He gets nervous when we leave but that isn't usually when he pees, we let him out on a regular basis and always ask him if he needs to go. Any help or suggestions?

Answer
Crate train him, he'll learn that the crate is like a "den". In the meantime, buy some odor neutralizer at a pet supply store, spray it on the areas he goes pee on after you've cleaned his mess up. When dogs can smell their odor in a certain area, they will continue to go back there.

My puppy spills her water in her crate help!?

Jumping Sh

I always put water in my puppys crate so it doesn't go thirsty I also put In a quilt so the bottom of the crate so it wont hurt her but she always tips it over what should i do? sould I have more blankets? room for her water? Please help
But should i make room for the water or should i wait until i get my allowence to but a dish to attach also this is kinda off the subject but what should i do if she whines in the middle of the night she does if everytime! she is 7 weeks and is a german shepherd

Answer
Try a bottle that the dog can lick to get the water, like rabbits and guinea pigs have. They make them for dog crates.

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can I fix my dog?

Brand New

I have a very stubborn German Shepard/Border Collie Mix male dog! and I can't train him to save my life. in all honesty I don't care if he sits on demand and what not but I have been trying to teach him like crazy because he has started to show some aggressive behaviors! and I can't figure out what his trigger is (he has snaped at 3 people over the last year and a half and all of them were being nice to him and the most recent one I know he was fond of! the only thing I can link them together with is baby talk "OOOHHH ROCKY" and they were all touching him at the time. and what's weird is that he seems to know it was wrong because he mopes around for days after each one. the only thing is my Fiance and I want to start having kids next year and I am afraid to have him around people! I got him a crate and he seems okay sleeping in it. He's so good 95% of the time and has stopped barking at so many people (like roofers and kids climbing the fence) but I need more help training him! any
thing will help! I can't stand the thought of putting him down but am reaching the end of my rope. He loves Dogs (like at the Dog park he is okay with everyone there) but if say my fiance and I do the whole piggy back thing or wrestle it freaks him out! and he doesn't like people coming to our house or on the leash but if he gets out and can run free he loves everyone! so he's not just aggressive for the sake of being aggressive he even shares his food with our much smaller welsh terrier. I plan on consulting a dog behavioralist as soon as I get the money in about a month but until then I need something has anyone else had this problem or know how to train particularly protective and stubborn dogs?
sorry for the confusion he has been nutered and I absoultly don't want to put him down! that is what I am trying to avoid! I tried taking him in to a no kill shelter and they refused him and the regular one said they wouldn't even try before putting him down. and nobody I know will take him! this is my last resort. as for the pining thing we have tried that it only works for 15 or so minutes once the scenery changes he's back to normal (like if we do it on a walk he's good for the rest of that walk only!) he didn't used to be like this and I know it's my fault I just want to fix the behaivor!

Answer
Glad you're going to a behaviorist in the next month. I suspect the evaluation will say your dog has fear aggression and you are NOT Alpha Pack Leader, which IS YOUR JOB!

Both GSD and BC are FABULOUS TRAINABLE DOGS! Unless your dog has something like a brain tumor, these breeds are well known for being SMART and among the fastest and easiest to train. They were BRED to be trainable and to work with a human handler.

SO... the problem is you! Sorry... but it's a fact.
If YOU cannot train your dog, then you are NOT Alpha Pack Leader. Alpha Pack Leader is always listened to by the dogs in the pack. The Pack Leader's wishes MUST be listened to and followed! That's the law of the pack.

I'll give you links to 2 excellent websites to learn how to be Alpha Pack Leader. READ them! LEARN & DO what they tell you.

I'll give you 3 excellent websites that give you insights into dog behavior. READ them! Learn to understand your dog.

His trigger is that he's got the heavy job of being the Pack Leader, so, instead of enjoying just being a dog, he has the responsibility of controlling everything around the pack. If in his doggie mind, someone's actions are a potential threat, his response is to lunge to bite. He's trying to protect you. He's trying to ward off perceived threats to himself as well.

If you have the right channels, watch the shows "It's Me or the Dog" with Victoria Stillwell, and The Dog Whisperer with Cesar Millan. What I've learned from watching them is the fact that the majority of major dog control problems come from the fact that the owner is NOT the Pack Leader. This always leads to the WORST offenders and LEAST socialized dogs

AND ... as another responder said... if he's intact, get him neutered... That's a must

Addendum: both GSD and BC are high energy dogs. They need a JOB to do, and if you haven't given him a job, he's selected guarding YOU as his job. You need to give him more exercise... he needs a LOT of running and a LOT of exercise. I suspect you don't give him enough exercise to tire him out and challenge and excite him. That is another part of the problem.

And ignore the comment by "Petsitter" who shouldn't be a petsitter with that uneducated view of dogs. -!-

My dog wont stop chewing things up!!!?

thumper

I have a pit/boxer mix. I have had him since he was 7 weeks old and now he is 7 months. I also have four older dogs in the house as well. My issue is that he keeps chewing or pottying in my house. BUT, he only does it when I am not around. Today I have been home all day, so he has had plenty of time to chew or poitty in the house if he wanted. Well I got in the shower and when I got out my living room was in pieces....paper,shoes,xmas gifts, etc. So this is the way I have been training him. Now before u start judging, I must say that this way is the only way I knew of. I have taught all of my other dogs this way and they learned within a monmths time. I was taught to pick up what ever he was chewing on, show it to him, say no with a firm voice and a single spank on the rump, then put him in a cage. Thats how ive trained everyone of my dogs and they has all turned out to be great dogs and the all know tricks etc. Well after about 3 months of me doing that to him, he doesnt seem to be catching on. and i really started to feel bad becuase his cute face melts my heart lol. So I researched online they said negative reinforcement is bad. well after that I have tried positive reinforcement and let me tell u, its very hard to do. But either way nothing is working. He is so close to being a strictly outside dog. And I dont want that. Outside dogs tend to be left out of things and forgotten. Please help. I know he is only 7 months but man this is just getting old. He will be my LAST puppy ever. I should have stuck to my guns and got an old dog from the pound like i normally dog.

Answer
Well we all make mistakes with training our dogs, we can't all be Victoria Stillwell. What worked for your previous dogs won't necessarily work with this dog. Bully breeds are notoriously stubborn, and Boxers aren't known for their smarts. Consistency is going to have to be key for this puppy.

One problem I see you've committed is using a crate for punishment. What you should have been doing is crate training him, so when you're in the shower or gone from home or asleep, the dog needs to be in his crate. This needs to be his safe haven. Please please crate train this dog. If he's in his crate, then he can't tear up your house. And if he learns to love his crate, he won't mess in there either. Only keep strong toys in there like kongs though because he could swallow other things and get a major blockage.

His pottying inside may be due to the fact that he has so much competition. He's living with 4 other dogs, he's got to make his mark somehow! Be sure to give him lots of good snuggles and praise, and walk him outside by himself if you can. Give him tons of praise when he potties outside.

It also sounds like he's bored. I'm not sure how that's possible with four other dogs, but boxers and pit bulls need tons of stimulation. A tired dog is a good dog, so work on games or exercise for him and that should help.

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Dog crate question....?

8 * Second

recently we had to give our dog a bath and clean her crate becuase she smelled so terrible and it seemed to come on all the sudden so we figured that she may have thrown up and layed in it or something like that. So Heid's was all cleaned 5 days ago. She sleeps in her crate at night and this morning I came down to this smell again on her. Now during the day she's completely normal,doesn't get sick or act sick so I don't think that is it. THe only other thing i can think of is she's growing FAST and we just noticed 5 days ago when we cleaned the crate it's probably gotten to small for her. we plan on getting a new one on wednesday to take care of that. Does anybody have any ideas on the odd odors, what could cause them, does it have anything to do with crate size? If it helps shes a 1 y.o. rottie
She is spayed.
It is not inhumane, all dogs are different and she is NOT ready to be out of the crate at night. She was out for a week one month ago and managed to tear up and entire kitchen vinyl floor that was one piece not tiled, FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE ROOM OUT

Answer
could be what your feeding her. i have 1 that reeks when he has beef and another that reeks with beef OR fish. comes right through the pores.

ignore the crate critisisms. my pup is almost 1 yr and still crated. it's for her safety. people who think crating is inhumane would rather see their pup chew wires etc and get sick or worse. not only that but i have 3 100 lb dogs loose in the house at night and my 15 lb pup could be hurt if the play got too rough.

and my 4 yr old mal x has only been out of his crate for about 8 mths. he loves his crate, but we moved into a house where there's no room for it.

Crate training question?

belle

We got a new dog a few weeks ago. We have successfully housebroken her (YEAY!), but she still chews. How do we know when it is appropriate to leave her out of the crate at night, and also when we are gone? We have another dog that isn't crated at night, and I don't want to seem cruel...but I don't want to let her out too early either. Ideas? Suggestions? Thanks!
The shelter estimated her age at 6-8 months.
The first idea would be a good one, except I have an open carport and she jumped the fence yesterday--twice!
georgew--mine chews loose things too. She prefers socks and houseshoes--and my other dogs bed. :)
Our bedroom is TINY (old war home), and I barely have room for a full size bed and dresser. Therefore neither of our crates will fit in the bedroom--we've tried! So she is seperated from us at night.

Answer
My dogs love their crates. They have used them since they were puppies and now that they are 4 and 5 years old they put themselves in their crates at night when they want to go to bed. I don't even lock the crates anymore. I did lock them when they were puppies. I would give them a toy but usually they just curled up and went to sleep in their crates. Be sure the crate isn't too big, it should be just big enough for them to stand in and turn around. Put some comfy blanket in and be sure to wash the blankets often. Your dogs will learn to love their crates.

Oh and by the way, never use the crate as punishment. You want your dog to associate the crate as a positive environment, not a punishment.

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backyard dogs inhumane?

Kyo

I have two backyard only dogs. A golden retreiver(female) and a chocolate labrador(male). They are both neutered/spayed and have daily human contact. They are well fed and taken care of. So the other day I planned on adopting this cute little corgi mix dog and since he won't grow big I decided it would be best to have him sleep indoors with me. When I contacted about the dog, they replied that they didn't adopt to people with backyard only dogs even if I planned to keep this one indoors. I find this rather dumb as I take care of my dogs, feed them daily and they each have their own igloo homes. Is it really that bad to have them outside? They are never tied up and run around and have little toys to play with.

Answer
Um... where do they think wild dogs live? Dogs *WANT* to be outside. I have a 6lb Yorkie that would get eaten by hawks, but he still wants to be outside every waking moment.

Dogs are physically able to stay outside. They evolved to live outdoors!

My parents rescued a German Shepard that is an outside dog. He loves the rain. He loves the grass. And that dog is the most spoiled dog on this earth! Just because he lives in the back yard, doesn't mean he's being neglected. They love him as if he was their child.

I seriously dont understand the answers you are getting to this question. You want to RESCUE a neglected dog for pete's sake! Adopt him, make him part of your family, give him the attention he's not getting in the shelter. All of these people (including the ones that say they are trainers - although every trainer I have ever had tell me to treat my dog like a freaking dog) act like you are abusing the ones that you have. If that shelter wont let you have that dog, it's their loss. I'm sure you are a great pet owner and it shows by the fact that you already have two fairly huge dogs (which equates to more expensive) and you want open your home and heart to another. Bravo sir!!

Lay off people!! We talk about fixing the overpopulation animal problem in the shelters and then we find out that the animal shelters arent adopting the animals to loving homes. What gives??


For Shih Tzu lover: Yes, I assumed that the Corgi was neglected. Sure, maybe the shelter sits with her for hours on end petting her.. and only her. But I doubt it. Neglected doesnt mean it's being abused, it just means that it isnt getting the full attention it could be getting at home with a loving family.

Like I said, I dont keep my dog outside. Yorkies dont have undercoats and he would get cold. Labs and retrivers are a bit different.

So how does a wild dog differ physically to an outside "pet" - not a freaking yorkie, but a lab?

And how does being a pack leader have anything to do with where the dog sleeps? Is that any worse than the people that have indoor pets that are kept in crates for 8 hours a day? At least his dogs can run around and play with each other all day!

Are Yorkies very high maintence dogs?? 10 points!!!!!!!!!!!?

Lovelivela

I know you have to take care of their hairs and groom them and wash them but could they stay home bythemselves for atleast 6 hours?? with toys in a cage??
and are they really really loud when they grow up??
Hahha wow I spelled almost everything wrong.. sorry guys.. :)

Answer
An adult dog would be fine to be crated for 6-8 hours a day.

Yes they are high maintenence with the grooming needs.. as a toy breed they also desire attention. They can easily suffer from lonliness.. any breed of dog is fine to be alone part of the day while you are at work or school, as long as you are willing to dedicate time before and afterwards to give them the attention, grooming, exercize and training that they need.

Many toy breeds tend to be barky.. most small breeds were originally bred as lap/foot/bed warmers, but also served a dual purpose of ratters and/or alert dogs. Barking can be limited with training and keeping the dog exercized and mentally stimulated.. and sometimes it just depends on the personality.. some individual dogs are just more vocal than others.


ADDED
A PUPPY should not be left alone in a crate for 6 hours.. but an adult is fine.. pups need pottied often and need socialization.. they cant be left in a crate by themselves for more than a few hours at a time.

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is dog crate waaaay too cheap?

So, i am looking for cheap dog crate, and i found this one, but the price ..... it says it's good quality, but i really dont know....i was willing to pay $20 for a crate, but then i found this one.... please help me! I just need ur opinion. :)

Other comments or suggestion will be VERY helpful :)

thanks.

oh here is the crate:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pawhut-24-Wire-Folding-Dog-Cage-Crate-Kennel-w-Divider-/140600248038?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bc6d86e6

Answer
Yes, it's a GREAT deal if you can get it for that. However, you have to bid on the item and it depends on how much the other people and yourself are willing to pay. You will not find a new crate for $20 though. Crates are expensive unless you can find a good one used on craigslist or at a yard sale.

Money saving dog supply ideas?

Q. I was just wondering if anyone uses some cheap shortcuts regarding their dogs (I do NOT mean skimping on necessary vet care or anything like that), just simple things to save the average pet owner some money.

For example, I no longer buy dog beds... they get old clothes and towels for bedding and seem to like it better than dog beds since they can "burrow".

Anyone else with easy tips like that?

Answer
I use old blankets etc for dog beds. I love garage sales and often pick up stuffies and blankets (and sometimes even fill my crate addiction!). Plastic soda bottles are my dogs favorite toys.. along with 12 pack soda boxes (although Lou will try to steal the box with soda still in it!!).

I get some of my health testing done at dogshows... for example this weekend they're doing CERF and Heart certifications and have a microchip clinic. There are a couple of shows that also offer vaccinations but I've stuck with my vet for those.

Personally, I believe I save money raw feeding. I use a few non-traditional sources for meat... but more than that, I think I save money on vet bills because I've had no issues with teeth needing cleaned, ear issues, allergy/skin issues or anal gland issues since I started feeding raw.

Edit: I use human shampoo, sometimes with a few drops of Dawn dish detergent for the dog's FIRST wash. The second and third (if I have to do a third) I use a high quality dog shampoo that dilutes down. Because I have double coated dogs the first wash never fully penetrates the coat to the skin.

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My dog won't stop chewing my furniture, she's too big to crate, any suggestions?

racinggirl

I'm thinking about a muzzle when no one is home. I give her all the bones and chew toys but she prefers the furniture. Help

Answer
no dog is too big to crate. they make crates for great danes, old english mastifs, irish wolfhounds, etc.

There are two major causes of destructive behaviour: boredom and separation anxiety. Separation anxiety
is a term used to describe the insecure behaviour of a dog who is too dependent on his owner and thus becomes destructive in his owner's absence.
Separation anxiety is also common in dogs who have been abandoned or mistreated
Too many dogs are given up for adoption because of destructive behaviour, usually without any effort by their owners to change or improve their pet's behaviour. Accepting the responsibility of owning a dog means being prepared to deal with such situations.
The suggestions listed below will help you and your dog get right back on the good behaviour "track":

Have your dog spayed or neutered.

Give your dog rigorous, tiring exercise before you leave your home. This will require more time and effort on your part, but it is necessary to help your dog.

Make all home departures and arrivals uneventful. Avoid exciting your dog at these times.
Most destructive behaviour occurs within the first and last half hours a dog is alone. This is due usually to anxiety brought on by the excitement that often surrounds this time.
Plan a play session for your dog half an hour after you arrive home.

Never reprimand unless you have caught your dog in the act of being destructive.
Punishing your dog on your return for something done in your absence will serve only to increase its anxiety and confusion, and will hinder any progress you have already made.

Purchase a crate for your dog to stay in while you are away from home or are unable to keep an eye on your dog (this is comparable to placing a toddler in a playpen). Line the crate with a blanket and provide a variety of safe and suitable chew toys for your dog.
Never use the crate as a form of reprimand. Make the act of entering the crate enjoyable.
This method is commonly referred to as "cage" or "crate training", and emulates a natural habit of dogs, which is to go into a den for a safe and secure place to rest. Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you can practice leaving him alone for short periods of time.
Allow your dog access only to certain areas of the house and, as with children, make sure breakables and dangerous items are well out of reach (also keep in mind that your dog may just prefer to stay in its "den"). You may wish to read The Toronto Humane Society Fact Sheet "Crate Training" for more information.
Before leaving, switch on a radio tuned to a soft music/talk station. The sound of soft human voices and music has a calming effect on dogs.

Consult a veterinarian about your dog's diet. Foods that are too high in protein and/or lack other necessary nutrients may have an effect on your dog's behaviour.

Make use of the experience of others. Many excellent books are available.

Most behavioural problems can be solved with the right amount of love, time and patience. Don't give up! The love and devotion your dog has for you will make it all worthwhile.

What is a good dog food for a great dane puppy?

Melissa N

We have a 12 wk old dane girl she is fawn with a black mask just so sweet and goffy. I've read a lot about not feeding any type of puppy food. 24% or less of protien and 12% or less of fat. Is this so? I want the best for her and only adult foods what is good and where can you get it Petsmart...Wal-mart and so on. Our last dane we didn't know this and feed him puppy food until he was 1yr old the breeder said puppy LG breed. Now I'm reading different. Which that was 10yrs ago also. And what size crate / pet taxi should I buy now I don't want to have to buy a new one every month.LOL I know most people keep the danes outside but our girl is a house dog!!!! She has natural ears and just that dane look. We are teaching her how to sit now and I hope to start with her to heal next. We have 2 small children and we want her to know she can't jump on you. Any other dane info will help a lot thanks so much to you all and Happy New Year and God bless.

Answer
For a crate, I would recommend one that will fit your dog's adult size, but has a divider so when the puppy is smaller, you can let it be in half the crate instead of the whole thing. Then, as the puppy grows, you can remove the divider. That way, you don't have to keep buying crates every months.

I don't own giant breeds, but I believe they are usually put on adult food instead of puppy food. Puppy food makes a giant breed grow too fast. There are a few giant breed puppy formulas out there, but not many.

Below the double line is my general dog food choosing shpeel. Again, this is general information, and giant breeds have different 'rules' they follow, so that will require some more research on your end to make sure the food your choose is acceptable to feed a giant breed.
=== === ===

Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food.

Here is my "short list" of rules when I am looking at dog ingredients:
1) When I chose a dog food, I chose one high meat content. I want to see preferably at least 2-3 out of the top 5 ingredients be meat or meat meal (first ingredient must be!). Meal is simply the meat with the moisture removed.
2) I want to see higher quality grains, such as barley, brown rice, and oatmeal, instead of seeing wheat and corn. Or an alternative starch/carbohydrate such as potatoes or sweet potatoes.
3) I don't want to see any byproducts.
4) I don't want to see a lot of fillers.
5) I don't want to see preservatives that are believed to be carcinogens (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).
6) I don't want to see artificial colorings such as the Red, Blue, and Yellow dyes.
7) I don't want to see added sugars (sugar, corn syrup).
8) I don't want to see mystery meats (meats identified only as "meat" or "poultry".)

Here is an article about byproducts:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd

And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients

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There is no food that is the *best*, different individual dog may thrive on different foods. What is best for one may not be the best for the next. And just because a food is good quality, it doesn't mean it will jive the best for your dog.

What you want to find is the high-quality food that *your dog* does best on.

Here are some examples of high quality foods:
* Artemis - http://www.artemiscompany.com/
* California Natural - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/california-natural.asp
* Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
* Chicken Soup - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
* EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp
* Fromm - http://www.frommfamily.com/
* Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
* Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
* Nature's Variety - http://www.naturesvariety.com/
* Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/products/
* Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
* Taste of the Wild - http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/
* Timberwolf Organics - http://timberwolforganics.com/
* Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/

Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
(I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)

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Higher quality food may seem more expensive at first, but it evens out. The higher quality the food, the less fillers eaten (and therefore the less poop comes out the other end). Your dog eats more of a low-quality food to try to get the nutrition it needs, and most of the food just passes right on through. Also, higher-quality food will make your animals healthier, so you save money on vet bills in the long run.

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Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, etc.)

Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not always mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. Most of these foods have the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)

Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.

Hills company, the makers of Science Diet, are heavily involved in vet schools. "Hill's scientists author more than 50 research papers and textbook chapters each year and teach at leading schools of veterinary medicine" (Source of quoted section: http://www.hillsvet.com/zSkin_2/company_info/company_info_general.jsp?JSESSIONID=HMz2B3Jn3hv0rnSoxCobfbBhOec35ODG7yh5t3P0vcvhOtzRlQ9M!598359213!167846923!7005!8005&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302026072&bmUID=1196192566575 )

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"Big box" petstores like Petco and Petsmart rarely have quality foods. (I do believe that PetCo sells "Solid Gold" and "Natural Balance" brands and Petsmart sells "Blue Buffallo", which are all higher quality foods, but most of the foods aren't.)

Also, grocery stores and Walmart aren't good places to buy food either.

Your best bets for getting quality dog food are:
- small, locally owned petstores
- dog boutiques
- farm supply stores

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When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
25% food A, 75% food B
50% food A, 50% food B
75% food A, 25% food B
100% food A
.

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Where can I find a cage, big enough to hold a small c̶h̶i̶l̶d̶ puppy?

Q.

Answer
I get all my children's (I mean dog) crates at tractor supply. Too bad you missed the black friday deals.

How to get my dog fully housebroke?

Brecken's

I have a 4month old Pom/Maltese mix puppy, and I understand she's still a puppy and this is still early and she will have accidents, but what I don't get is why is she doing things that she KNOWS not to do? Like yesterday she knows she's not allowed to get on the white couch what did she do she got up on it and pooped. We are crate training her, but she acts like she doesn't care. She likes going to her cage, and then she will poop or pee in the cage and then roll in it. I need help on how to crate train her when she likes her cage and goes in it with out caring that she's rolling in it.
I forgot to say that we do use puppy pads, but she shreds them into a million peices.

Answer
If you have a Tractor Supply Company around you, there is a spray called DOG REPELLANT it sounds kind of strange but it Works wounders, I have an 8 week old Pit Bull and she uses the bathroom every 5 mins. in 1 of 3 places, and the kennel was one of them and she too would roll in it, so I got this stuff and sprayed it where she uses the bathroom and she stopped, then I got some liquid stuff from Wal-Mart I can't remember what the name of it is, but it's in the animal department somewhere it draws a dog to use the bathroom and I put it on the puppy pads, No more problems for me since then. If you don't have a Tractor Supply Company there is a web site www.petcarerx.com you can go to the category named Dog Supplies, then click on Behavioral supplies, then Repellants. And for the stuff to make them use the bathroom where you want them to just click on Dog Supplies, then Your New Puppy, and then click on Housebreaking and there is stuff called Four Paws Puppy Housebreaking Aid mabey you could give those two things a try. If you can let us know if you find something that works I would love to know how everything works out.

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Best Dog Cage for a pitbull?

pitbullbab

I have a lot of experience with pitbulls but with this new "puppy" I rescued I am completely stumped. My other dogs have been able to get out of their metal cages and we have solved it by placing a padlock on a corner of the cage and that usually solves the problem. After awhile they learn they can't get out and we are then able to take the lock off. This new puppy who has no previous training at all needs three locks on his cage, we bought a new cage for him thinking that maybe the other one was just bent enough that he could always get out. Even though we have had him for about a month he still whines and barks for at least an hour when we put him in his cage. I have wondering if anyone knows of any cages that a pitbull can't break through. This dog is going to be neutered in about three days, and I was also wondering if anyone knows if we would see a difference with his cage behavior.

Answer
With my foster pit bulls I have always had better luck with high quality plastic airline crates. Although I did have one dog that learned to pull the door off, and even broke his tooth doing it. After talking to a number of other bully breed owners and trainers I eventually began to tether him. But that requires a bit of training first. http://www.happyhoundnashville.com/tethering.html
How old is this pup? Is there a unspayed female nearby? That could very easily be the cause of his issues if he is matured by not yet neutered.
Also when you put him in the crate add a loaded/stuffed kong in with him. Pack it full of treats, dog food, and peanut butter, so he has to work for a while to get it all out. That always keeps my pack happy for a while, and they forget to cry and bark.
I know they do make super strong metal crates, my friend bought one online for her dane, but they are pretty expensive and extreme. http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Indestructible-Steel-Crate/dp/B000Y91K3S but it would work!

How can I train my dog not to destroy everything I own when I'm not around? And why is she acting like this?

Nicole

Every time I leave to go out my 1 1/2 year old pit bull terrier goes nuts and destroys everything she can get her paws on but when I'm around shes the calmest little angel you could ever meet. I don't think taking her to a training class would help because they usually only train commands and what not. Could someone please point me in the right direction? Because I really love her and I'm at a point where I either need to choose my dog or my stuff.
Forgot to write that she has gone through 5 different crates mainly because she breaks the plastic tray and can bend the bars and squeeze out.. and knows how to unlatch the latches so I tried locks but the main concern is the plastic tray on the bottom, so then she walks the cage to whatever she wants and tears up the carpet, couch, pillows...

Answer
See if you can find a crate that is close to 20 gauge steel, she wont be able to bend the bars. That is about the strongest crate available on the market today. Get some heavy duty locks for the crate. Obviously just crating her isn't enough, she needs something to keep her busy while you are away - like a frozen peanut butter stuffed heavy duty kong (Extreme Kong). First, I would take the tray out of the bottom and get squares of heavy duty patio block for the bottom of the crate. She won't be able to move all of them AND move the crate, too. It would also help if you can take her for a good walk her before you leave.

My dogs are huge and powerful, ranging from 135 pounds to 155 pounds, they could easily bust out of their crates if they wanted to. They don't, they don't even try. They *love* their crates.

Condition your dog to love her crate. While you are home, crate your girl for short periods of time. Every once in awhile, walk by the crate and drop some kibble in the crate. Don't talk to her, just drop a handful of kibble in the crate and keep walking by. Only reward with kibble when she is quiet, otherwise she will associate her noisiness with the kibble treats. Praise her often while she is in the crate. Do this several times a day for short sessions while you are home. Another thing you can do to get her to love her crate is to open the door and feed her in her crate with the door open. She will begin to learn that good things happen when she is in her crate.

A couple words of advice when crate training. Never praise or reward your dog when you open the door to let her out. That makes the exit the reward and she will associate *getting out* of the crate with rewards, instead of associating being IN the crate with good things happening. Don't open the door to let her out if she is whining or crying, either.

Training classes wouldn't hurt, even if they just teach basic commands, although good trainers are able to help owners solve problems that arise while raising a dog. Classes will teach your dog discipline and respect. She will learn who is in charge and the two of you will build an even stronger bond.

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Tips on crate training my 2 year old golden to not panic in the dog crate once I close the door.?

jackson

I will be flying with my 2 year old golden in one month (6 hour flight) no other option. I have been crate training in preparation for this. He is not afraid to go into the crate, but when I close the gate after a couple of minutes he begins to appear to start to panic. Drooling excessively, licking on the gate, whining and barking a little and not lying down. I've been doing this for a week (minutes at first and leaving and now up to 30 minutes), but he is the same. I am not suppose to give him a sedative when he flys, but I am concerned he is going to injure himself or have a heart attack. I leave the crate in the room and the door open and he goes in and out (but never stays in long) on his own. So he is not afraid of the crate - just being locked in I guess??? I'm confused - any help would be so appreciated! Thanks.

Answer
Most dogs do this at first when they are learning... For at least a few days, take the door off. Or atleast do not close it. The dog needs to know the crate is his "safe place" and his den. When you are home from work, practice for a very long time... Lure him in with a treat.. as soon as all 4 feet are in the crate and reward, reward, reward. Be super happy and clap your hands, give the dog tons of positive attention. Keep doing this over and over... with the door not shut. During this time, do not give him treats at any other time other then during this training. After a week, start closing the door and leave him in there for just a few mintues at a time. Do the same thing.. treat lure.. when he comes out after the door is opened, reward reward reward... The dog will get it, and realize that this is a happy place.. not a scary place. Aswell mentioned above keep a Kong or other chew toys to keep the dog busy.
I used an item from the health food store called "Rescue Remedy", it is a liquid you can put in thier water and it will calm them down. My neighbor whom rescues dogs uses it all the time when she picks up a new dog. It just calms then down naturally without sedation... Try it a few times before you actually go.

Good luck I am sure with the above technique the dog will Love his crate!!

Get my dog to stop whining in his crate!!!?

Angela Rad

Our newly adopted 11/2 year old lab mix currently uses a crate while we are away. We leave her in there for no more than 3 hours a day. The problem is that she whines in her crate for about a half hour and then she quiets down and is fine the rest of the time....the problem is that we live in an apartment and our neighbors have called our apt. manager and threatening to call the police. I tried talking to them and let them know its only for a half hour (its not constant), but they dont care. I can't leave my dog out of her crate because she chews EVERYTHING and poops in the house.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get her used to her crate with no whining so we dont have to get rid of her?!?
Thanks in advance!

p.s. I dont need to hear about how crating is cruel and is like a cage. Dogs are den animals and need that safe place..ask any reputiable vet or dog trainer.

Answer
crating is not cruel and I'm with ya there on how stupid people are who think crating is cruel -- most dogs learn to LOVE their crate, my dog sleeps in his even when he's roaming around in the house. Take it from me, I adopted my dog about a year ago, and the first week or so he would scream, howl and bark (I live in a townhome complex), and the neighbor knocked on my door and said he could hear him and asked if we could quiet him down...Everything I am going to tell you do do is what I did, and my dog now LOVES his crate.

If I were you, I would go to the pet store and buy a Kong dog toy (this has no risk of breaking up into small pieces so its safe to leave it with him unattended), and put some kong "stuff'n" in it, or simply some dog treats/peanut butter to keep him busy those first few minutes in the crate.

Make sure he has a nice comfortable bed in there, and be sure to make him think his crate is a GREAT place, like his den or something. NEVER EVER put him in the crate as a form of punishment (he will then start to associate the crate as a bad place), your goal is to make it a positive experience for him. Make him feel his crate is a safe haven....somewhere where he can go to relax...when you are home and he doesn't have to be in the crate, leave the crate in a room where people are the most (living/family room) and leave it open at all times for him to access it if he wants.

Before you leave him alone in the crate, talk happily to him with his kong treats and coax him into the crate with that rather than forcing him in.

The reason he's crying and everything is because he's in a new environment, is uncomfortable with his new surroundings including sounds, and he may have never been crated before so this is all new and scary to him....and since you adopted him, who knows what kind of past he's had....I feel dogs, until they get to know your home routine, feel as though they are going to be abandoned when you leave them in a crate. Be glad he only does it for a short period of time - because that's a good start actually! It's shame your neighbors are such jerks who are not understanding of your situation.

All I can say is treat him with a kong with treats to make him feel the crate is a good place, and hopefully it'll keep him busy....And believe me once he gets used to his home, the sounds, the smells, and your family....he will be okay....hopefully eventually enjoying his crate.

**Also I forgot to mention, you could try to put a plug-in called "comfort zone" which is a natural pheromone that helps to calm down anxious and nervous dogs, it's supposed to be VERY effective....check it out here (another thing you can only buy a pet store or online): http://dogcomfortzone.com/

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Wheres a good place to find a 48"x31" dog crate?

JustWonder

I need to find a large dog crate quick!

Answer
Ebay is a good place to look: http://www.ebay.com
One available now: http://cgi.ebay.com/Canine-Camper-Double-Door-Soft-Dog-Crate-48-x-31-x-35_W0QQitemZ310201387692QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100219?IMSfp=TL100219125006r12363

Another is http://www.petsoutlet.net
http://www.petsoutlet.net/modeng/name/onlinestore/func/viewprod/product/221

http://puppysupplystore.com is another place http://www.puppysupplystore.com/camper-dog-crate/

Soft Dog Crate that Exceeds 33in in Height?

Maria N

Hi, I have an English Mastiff and his current crate which is 33in is starting to be too small for him. His head rubs and his back rubs. Id prefer the cloth instead of wire because its lighter for me to carry and more portable. Can anyone help me find a portable/soft crate that is around 33-54in in height?

Answer
You mentioned that your dog's crate was starting to get too small so I am assuming he is not fully grown. The largest soft-sided dog crate I have seen was 36" inches tall. The tallest wire crate is also 36". May I suggest a soft sided dog exercise pen which is lightweight and portable at 48" tall. Good luck in your search.

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Does anyone know how many dog kennels there are roughly in the USA?

Devin

Hello, just wondering if anyone knows how many dog kennels (roughly) there are in the USA?
Just a regular boarding kennel. Does anyone know?

Answer
Are you counting portable kennels? Boarding kennels? Vets' kennels? I'd say there are LOTS of them. Hundreds!!..

Are there any good places to adopt a dog from in Oceanside, CA?

MadisonA

Are there any places to stay away from? Please let me know about any good (or bad) experiences with places in Oceanside. There are so many and I want to make sure I make a wise decision. Thanks!

Answer
Do a little research and try and avoid a dog brought in from Mexico at a shelter. Shelters in Ca have been importing Mexican street dogs and some are very unhealthy and have poor temperaments. I'll through in some links. I would avoid an import to a shelter like the plague. Anyway because California has far less people raising dogs than they do wanting dogs much of the canine population out there comes from somewhere else statistically. Whether Lloyd Levine wants to tell the truth or not. In fact 10,000 puppies are estimated crossing the border from Mexico a year because people want them. Now shelters are also bringing dogs over, It does two things, re homes a Mexican street dog, and keeps shelter numbers up for Levine and his nonsense.
In fact from
http://www.cooldoghalloffame.com/dog-health/filling-empty-dog-pounds/1378
âAnimal shelters in the USA are casting a wide net â from Puerto Rico to as far as Taiwan â to fill kennels,â reported USA Today. âCritics say many shelters have solved the stray problem in their own area â but rather than shut down, they become de facto pet stores. Some charge more than $200 per adoption for imported dogs.â

According to Tuftsâ Gary Patronek â the director of Tuftsâ Center for Animals and Public Policy at the Universityâs School of Veterinary Medicine â U.S. shelters may be a victim of their own successes.

âThe drive to have dogs spayed and neutered in the USA has cut down on unwanted litters. And adoption campaigns have helped empty dog pounds,â reported USA Today. âBut [the Tufts expert says] people who want to adopt dogs increasingly find aged dogs or undesirable breeds like pit bulls at shelters.â

Imported animals are filling the demand.

âIn the last seven years, one organization in Puerto Rico has shipped more than 14,000 strays to the states for adoption,â reported the newspaper. âShipments from other countries also appear to be increasing. Most imports are small to medium-size dogs popular among adopters.â

In order to enter the U.S., the imported animals do not need to be quarantined â having certificates of good health and proof of rabies shots are sufficient.

âBut Patronek said bringing dogs in from abroad runs a serious risk of importing a disease,â reported the Scottish newspaper The Scotsman.

According to the Tufts expert, âWhat makes it so scary is that you just donât know what might emerge if you arenât at least looking for it.â

And despite their similarities, shelters and pet stores have important distinctions from one another.

â[Patronek says] not-for-profit shelters may be chartered to insure animal welfare, but they are relatively unregulated,â reported USA Today. âPet shops, on the other hand, generally operate under more stringent state and local regulations.â

But some pet owners donât mind that the stray animals theyâve adopted are from other countries, not their local communities.

âI read a lot about how hard their lives are in Puerto Rico,â Marianna Massa â who adopted two imported stray dogs â told USA Today. âIt just affected me so much. I had to do something. If I had a farm, Iâd have more.â

And:
"Senator Richard Durbin of Illinois has been working on legislation which may, in the future, place greater restrictions on the importation of puppies as a public health issue. Shelters are currently importing large numbers of dogs from China, Japan, Mexico, Africa and elsewhere without any regulated veterinary health standards for these imported dogs. There have been people who have been bitten by these dogs and had to undergo rabies treatment. Asking animal shelters, animal rescue groups, humane societies, and related non-profit groups to face tighter import restrictions, to keep records, and to face the kind of tighter inspections faced by pet stores would help if they're going to import large numbers of dogs."

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