Advice on rehabilitating a shy dog?

Q. So, I've been fostering for Border Collie Rescue for a while now. Today my foster dog has an adoption appointment, so hopefully that goes well. The VP of the rescue asked me if I wanted to take a shy girl who needs confidence building. I have worked with male-aggressive dogs, ones I had to teach how to sit still(he would pace back and forth instead of lay down), etc...I have never worked with a dog that needs confidence building before, BUT, there has to be a first time for it, just like with the other types of dogs I've worked with. I'll be asking the VP for advice, of course! But I was also hoping that any of you with experience in this could give me advice/pointers.
Also, where should I put her crate? I normally have it in the living room so the dogs can watch everyone come and go when they have to be in there, but would it be better to put the crate in a more quiet place?

Thanks guys!
Hollywood - Don't think that'll work so well. This dog is so fearful that at her current foster home, the first few days she hid under the car in their yard and they literally had to reach under there and pull her out, because she wouldn't come out on her own...

Answer
I have fostered many dogs. I have fostered dogs right out of the puppy mill to the vet, to the groomer and then to the foster home. No time for nothing.

I remember a puppy mill raid in Tampa my rescue was part of. We took 44 dogs. All breeds. Some were Maltese. One foster home took a very tiny (3 pounds) approximately 5 year old Maltese and when she got her to the arena where we were showing the dogs, she was very stressed. She said she has had the dog for 3 days, it has not eaten, drank and when she puts it outside to go potty it runs away from here and hid behind the A/C condenser for 4 hours. She finally figured out how to get her out.

I told her I would be more than happy to take the dog. While we were there, I took the dog, a leash and carried her outside. I did not take treats because a FEARFUL dog does NOT react to treats.

I put her on the ground with the leash on her and made her move by pushing her butt off the ground and gently pulling the lead. She had NEVER felt grass before.

After about 2 minutes of shaking and panting, I got her to walk about a foot. Then we went another foot and then after about 15 minutes she was running. While I was making silly noises & getting stared at.

I took her back inside, put her in the kennel, she drank a bowl of water, curled up and slept. When she woke up, I took her out to potty, we ran a bit more, she came back, had a drink and a little food.

Took her home, had her for 3 days (I think) went through about 100 applications for her and found the right one. By the time she left my house, she was eating, drinking, taking walks, playing with my other dogs etc.

I did the same thing with several other dogs the rescue had.

Don't call this dog *fearful* yet. Because there is a great chance the dog is NOT genetically fearful.

Don't treat the dog with soft gloves. First thing you do? Get it outside walking on a leash. Yes, there will be fear of noises, traffic, other people, dogs etc. But even if it is for only 2 minutes the first time? Do it. Then give lots of praise. And keep doing it. Lots of praise.

It is really not as hard as people want to make it. I have found the best way to boost any dogs confidence is to put them in a situation which requires the dog to be flooded with much outside disturbances, you stay calm, you ignore the *fear* you keep on going and then you give much praise.

That is the way I have done this forever.

Moving cross country with two small dogs...need advice, please?

Q. I am driving from Las Vegas, NV to Tampa, FL with one or two of my pomeranians. What should I have them in while I am driving in my car? They have crates but is there something smaller/more comfortable? They are four pounds and ten pounds, fyi.
Any suggestions, advice, website links,etc would be very much appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

Answer
If they are comfortable in their crates then that is what I would use. Many crates can be seatbelted down, preferable in the back seat. If they are comfortable sharing a crate then do so as they will probably appreciate the company of one another.
Limit food intake before traveling if they are prone to motion sickness; they can always tank up in the evenings.
Dramamine or benadryl can be given for carsickness but I do not know dosage for a dog that small; try this site:
http://animalsunlimited.net/meds.htm
Be conscious of starting and stopping slowly so they don't get thrown about.
Towels and baby wipes and plastic bags for accidents.
Fill a couple gallon jugs with the water they are currently drinking; offer frequently esp if you are running A/C.
Crack the windows while you are filling your tank - gas fumes aren't great for them but the heat will be even worse on them, esp with those coats. I know you can't run the car while fueling but you might consider a second key so you can keep it running while you go in and buy a soda, pay for your gas, use the restroom, etc. Unless of course you have a traveling companion....
Get them well-fitted harnesses for potty stops.
Microchip them and link it to old and new addresses.
Put your cell phone number on ID tags.
Have health certificates/vet records handy.
Motel 6 accepts small pets, others probably do as well; you may want to pre-plan that while you still have internet access.

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How do you potty train a dog?

Q. He is about 1 year old. We got him from a pound. He moved from the streets, to a high-kill shelter in Tennessee, to a boarding home in Connecticut, to my home in NJ. He is a mixed breed of Shihz Tzu, Poodle, and Lhasa Apaso. HELPâ¥
I let him out every hour, and he still goes in the house! So that's really his only problem!
MY DOG IS COMPLETLY TRAINED!:(

Answer
Below are Crate Training/House Training Tips.

When you are leaving the house, or going to bed for the night, do the following. Never actually shove the dog in the crate, either throw treats in there, or sqeek a toy and put it in there. The dog will eventually learn that they have to go in, if you place them in front of the crate, and say the word.. Place the dog in the crate, along with some safe toys. Close the door, give a treat, and say your crate command.(Such as, night night, crate, or bed). Leave.
**I DO NOT SUGGEST CRATING PUPPIES THAT ARE YOUNGER THAN 12 WEEKS**
Repeat slowly extending the time, and make sure you leave time between kennel times, to spend with your puppy. Never expect your puppy to stay in his kennel longer than the age he is in months plus one. (example, if your puppy is 5 months old, only leave it in there for 6 hours. No dog/puppy should stay in it's kennel longer than 7-8 hours.

Rules:
1.Try to teach them that their crate is a good place. Reward them when you place them in the crate. This is teaching them, that a treat comes with good crate behavior. Always keep your dog in the crate, unless you can keep a good eye on him.
2. Another option, if you do not want to place your dog in the kennel all of the time, hook his leash to your belt loop, this way he can not go off and use the restroom somewhere, and you don't know about it.
3.Always take him outside after;(ON A LEASH); rough play, after he eats or drinks, after being let out of his crate, after he wakes up after a night or if he is,
sniffing,staring at you,whining, or sitting at the door.
4.Don't ever hit your dog, or rub his nose in his mess. This will just teach the dog to be afraid of you.
5.Don't feed him or give him to much water, before you plan to put him in his cage.
6.Don't expect your dog to hold it's restroom, more than the age of the dog in months, plus one. But no dog should have to hold it's bladder more than a 7-8 hours.
7.Be patient!! That is the key, to housetraining. Of course if you get too overwelmed, you can always buy a book, or ask a professional trainer!
8.Always, when he goes to the bathroom ouside, give lots of praise and treats!!
9. If you expect your puppy to go outside, and dont use puppy pads when he gets older, starting out with puppy pads, is not a good idea, because this trains them that it's ok to go inside, and then before they know it, they cant, it is to confusing for them.
10. Work out a schedule that fits your lifestyle. Feed your dog the same time every day.
11.When you go outside, stay outside until he uses the restroom.
12. Dogs while first potty training, need to go outside every 2-3 hours.
13.Do not make the dog smell his mess, strike him or lock him ouside. This will just confuse the pup, and it might be afraid of you.
14. Ignore whining, unless you KNOW that he/she has to go to the bathroom.
Good Luck!

Flying with nervous dog, from Oslo, Norway, to Newark, NJ?

Q. I'll be moving home to the US this summer, and I'm planning on bringing my dog with me. Only problem is he's very nervous. I'll be flying home in July, and have my grandparents ship the dog for me around September or so, so he'll be flying on his own. I'll pick him up at Newark of course. Anyhow, as he is extremely nervous (I can't even raise my voice without him shivering), I'm wondering if he'll survive the flight? Is it possible for him to die of fear? He'll fly with United Airlines, and i don't think they allow drugged animals to fly. It's an 8hr30min flight, so it's pretty long. Does anyone have any advice for me here?

Thanks in advance

Answer
Never fly a drugged pet - and you are right, many airlines won't accept a drugged dog - it's far better he doesn't come round m id-flight, and panic. You could use something like Rescue Remedy in his water for a week or so before flying, and there are non-drug remedies, like Kalm Aid (UK) which work. If he's used to being in a crate, that will help, and if he's not yet, get his airline crate and set it up in your living area, door open, so he starts to use it, hopefully, as his bed. That would make him more familiar with being in there.

I've flown my hounds, both ways (different hounds) from the UK to Toronto which is not quite as long as the flight you are doing, but still significant. In all cases they arrived, both ends, just fine. I hope your dog isn't a young puppy - the youngest I had shipped from the UK to Canada was 5 months. I took one of 4 months to Geneva from London, going on the same flight with him although he was in the hold. But that flight was short, obviously. Again he was fine. I'd not fly a younger puppy however.

Obviously you'll need to have him in for a health check (and paperwork) before he flies, so at that point, your vet should check his heart to make sure he's fit.

If there's any possibility of him expiring during the flight (very unlikely - once the flight is underway, he'll probably settle down for a sleep - it's just the preliminaries that could upset him), don't take him with you. Much as I know how you feel - initially I refused to go to Canada unless my hounds could come with me!!! - perhaps if he's that timid, finding him a good home where you are would be better?

I would say I think you are wise going out first, and getting him shipped to you once you have your accommodation sorted out.

Add - I'd seriously doubt ANY airline would allow you to have a dog with you in the cabin, for a long haul flight like that!!! Well, well, strange that I've flown both ways across the Atlantic many many times during the 15 years we were in Canada, and never saw a dog in the cabin. I can't see how any dog can be in the cabin with other passengers for upwards of 8.5 hours without stinking the place out, for starters.

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What is a good inexpensive doggie boarding place in Portland Or?

kiwi

I am going out of town text week for two nights and i need somewhere i can trust with my 20lb shiba inu. She is very playful and loving. Can anyone recommend one?

Answer
Well if your dog is small and well behaved, check out http://www.pattyspreciouspets.com/id4.html. It's home style boarding at $25/day. Alpha Dog http://www.alphatopdog.com/boarding.htm is $30/night but includes a regular day-care facility. I have no experience with either as I am across the river in Vancouver but these check out well.

Were you ever active against the dog-related issues where you live?

Q. Have you ever reported anyone to the police, have you ever worked in a shelter, etc.

I was a volunteer in the local shelter until a few years ago.

Answer
well i am currently lobbying the city where i live for more dog off leash areas ... i live in downtown vancouver which is more densely populated than manhatten and there are only three off leash areas, and one is for small dogs only ... and then the city went and spent 300 000 dollars to paint bike lanes ... i personally pay the city 50 dollars a year for a dog license and cyclists pay nothing but because it seems "environmentally friendly" the city pays that kind of money for these "lanes" ... which ticks me off ... and i have to say i have nothing against bike lanes ... i am 42, have never driven a car, and have only used a bike or public transit to get around ... but the reality is painting some lines on busy streets is NOT going to get people out of their cars ... google burrard and davie street view and see if you would cycle in that traffic ... another lane they painted, cars just ignore it and constantly i see cyclists almost get hit ... so for me the money spent on bike lanes (15% of vancouver population has bikes compared to almost 30 percent that have licensed dogs and no money is spent on dogs) is more for "environmental" show than anything else ... just like all the "parks" built right before the olympics so tourists would see vancouver as green ... NOT ... every time i suggest a location to the parks board, i get oh a condo is being built there, or a gas station is being built there ... approximately a block from my house one of these fake "olympic" parks was built, and just yesterday i saw the billboard that a huge highrise is to be built in that spot ...

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What's a good medium sized dog breed for a teenager?

Paige

My parents are, finally, letting me get my own dog.

I'd preferably want a fluffy dog. c:

Price doesn't matter, I'm paying for it with my own money.
I'm very well aware of the price of a dog over its lifetime, but thank you.

Answer
Approx Cost of owning a dog 1st year
Purchase Price=$1000
Food=$500
Vacinations=$150
Vet bills=$400
Spay/neuter=200
Bed=$150
Treats=$100
Chew bones=$150
Bowls=$25
Collar=$20
Leash=$20
Trainning=$450
Fence=$1500
Vitamins=$75
Flea Control=$200
Heartworm=$100
Shampoo=$25
Grooming=$400
Grooming Tools=$250
Dental Care=$40
Stain Cleaner=$75
Waste Disposal=$50
Trainning aids=$300
Deworming=$30
Boarding=200
Crate=$150
Car Restraint=$100
Approx 1 year cost =6,600
Approx yearly cost $2485.00

Total over the life of a 14 year old dog $38,905.00
What good for one person is NOT neccessarily good for another. So research carefully. I would recommend a Keeshound or Swedish Vallhund or American Eskimo, Cocker Spaniel, shetland sheepdog, Standard Schanuzer for an active teenage or Dachshund for a lazier teenager, I stay away from the other herding breeds such as Border Collie, Komondor, and Puli, there incrediable beautiful breeds, but there intelligent nature is a double edge sword, as they can proove to be very stubburn, but require experience owners .

Remember puppies cannot be left alone anymore then 2hours. They need extensive socialisation, attention and obedience trainning to ensure they become well developed adults.

Medium dog breeds 25 to 50 pounds
American Eskimo Dog 6-40lbs
American Water Spaniel 25-45lbs
Border Collie 30-45lbs
If Border Collies are so smart, then why aren't they easy to train?

If you are not a precise sort of trainer (most people aren't), then trying to train an intelligent Border Collie can be a frustrating task. Yes, they can pick up commands on two or three tries but they are also very perceptive and are constantly thinking. If, in teaching your dog to sit, you raise your right hand and say "Sit", the dog may pick that up the first time through. However, if the next time you repeat the command, you raise your arm at a different angle and use a slightly lower tone of voice or a different pace, a Border Collie will often pick up the subtle distinction and think that you are using an entirely new command. Border Collies have a difficult time learning to generalize, basically because it takes a dog that is less "critical" to be able to follow a sloppy command. Training a Border Collie can be like trying to teach a nerdy child that likes to overanalyze everything - it can be frustrating and an exhaustive exercise in patience.

What are the other problems with owning a smart dog?

Intelligence in dogs is a double-edged sword. Yes, Border Collies can learn lots of tricks and can have quite a large vocabulary but they also can learn lots of bad things too. Having a smart dog means waging a continual intellectual war with your dog, trying to outsmart them as they figure out each progressive intellectual step you take. Trying to confine a Border Collie can be an exercise in futility. Just when you put in a gate, they figure out how to get over (under) it. When you put in a door, they figure out how to push it open. You put in a latch and they figure out how to turn doorknobs. Some owners even swear that their Border Collies can pick combination locks - though their paws make it hard to turn the dial. If you do not enjoy engaging in intellectual warfare, especially with a non-human, a less "perceptive" and somewhat "denser" breed may be in order.
http://www.bcrescue.org/bcwarning.html
http://bcbordercollies.moonfruit.com/#/the-kid-myth/4531402542

Boykin Spaniel 25-40lbs
Brittany 30-40lbs
Cardigan Welsh Corgi 25-38lbs
Amiercan Cocker Spaniel 24-28lbs
Dachshund Standard-11-32lbs
English Cocker Spaniel 26-34lbs
English Springer Spaniel 40-50lbs
Field Spaniel 35-50lbs
Finnish Spitz 25-35lbs
Glen of Imaal Terrier 34-36lbs
Irish Terrier 25-27lbs
Keeshond 35-45lbs
Kerry Blue Terrier 30-40lbs
Norwegian Buhund 26-40lbs
Pembroke Welsh Corgi 25-27lbs
Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen25-35lbs
Polish Lowland Sheepdog 30-50lbs
Puli 25-35lbs
Pyrenean Shepherd 15-30lbs
Shetland Sheepdog 14-27lbs
Shiba Inu 20-30lbs
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier 30-45lbs
Standard Schnauzer 35-45lbs
Sussex Spaniel 40-44lbs
Swedish Vallhund 25-35lbs
Tibetan Terrier 18-30lbs
Welsh Springer Spaniel 35-45lbs
Welsh Terrier 30-40lbs

Please look into adoption from the local animal shelter. However your parents will need to be present before they allow the process to take place

EXTRA SMALL dog crates?

Emma L

I have a new 8 week old chihuahua and am looking for a crate that is about 12" long, 8" wide, and 10" tall. Does anyone know where I can find one for a somewhat affordable price??

Answer
Get a crate for your dog's adult size, not the puppy size. You'll save money that way. Many crates come with a divider so the puppy can be contained in a smaller area, then as the dog grows, the divider is removed.
Example: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753745

If you want a plastic crate and can't find them small enough in the dog section, look in the cat section. (My dogs have cat crates and cat beds. The size is right and for some reason cat stuff is often cheaper than dog stuff.)
.

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My dog keeps going to the bathroom in the house. Is it inhumane if I leave him in his crate while I'm at work?

O

I'd be leaving him there for about 8-9 hours :( The crate is about twice his size. Should I put bedding in there? and of course I'll put his water.

Answer
For me yes. Although I'd not call it inhumane, I would call this crate abuse. I can answer why best by attaching the words of a vet, taken from an earlier question on this subject -

"I asked my vet about medical pros and cons for crate training. His answer was that forcing a dog to hold his bladder and bowl movements can cause basically the same medical conditions as it would in a human. Including UTI, bladder cancer, bowl obstructions and so on.
He also said that keeping a dog confined to small crate over an regular bases could causes other issues such as thromboses, embolisms and problems with the development of the bones.
He could not name any medical advantage."

No dog should be left alone for that long, never mind in a crate. You have two ways out of this
1. Find somebody you trust to come in, at least once during the day, preferably twice, to take him out for a good walk
2. Get him into a creche.

No dog should be expected to hold for that length of time (see above) and apart from the physical problems, mentally he's not going to have a proper life for a dog. Cats will tolerate this life-style, not dogs. And this is not what crates are for - why do you have to ask about bedding!!

I know people have to work these days, but if that's the case, and it's not possible to make arrangements for the dog to be properly looked after during the time people will be out, having a dog will just have to wait. Dog ownership is a privilege, and to some extent, a luxury - with the exception that occasionally circumstances change and a return to full-time work is unavoidable. This is the only exception I can see to deliberately buying a dog, and then in effect, abandoning it.

what can i do about dog seperation anxiety?

untamed_li

i have a great dane so i dont have the luxury of crate training her instead i had to resort to putting her in the basement when i leave or at night. i use to leave her in the living room untill the day i left for 20 minutes and everything was tore up. it's getting very old and im so tired of hearing her cry relentlessly just because i leave the room. i tried a mild sedative, and walking her an hour a day but nothing seems to work.

Answer
Elaine is right, there are tons of articles about seperation anxiety. Here is one:

http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/separation-anxiety-in-dogs.html

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Dog car sickness. Road trip?

Claire S

My dog usually vomits in the car or drools a lot within 10 minutes of being in the car. In the summer, my family and I might take him on a 8-10 hour road trip with occasional stops.

He is a Brittany Spaniel (medium sized dog) and will be around 9 months old when we go.

If we take our dog, what will be comfortable for him to ride in? A crate will take up too much space in the car.

Thanks
We DO NOT plan on leaving our dog in the car.

He is micro chipped.

Answer
Never give the dog anything unless it is prescribed by your vet. Your best bet would be to start now getting your dog use to being in the car and make it as pleasant as possible. Start with short trips around your neighborhood five minutes maybe then increase to ten etc. Do this at least twice a day and as you increase the time and it doesn't get sick praise lavishly do not punish if it gets sick just stop for that day clean up the mess and decrease the time the next trip by a couple minutes eventually it should be able to tolerate it. Also as your vet, what you can bring with you should you need it. I use a harness that attaches to the seat belt, the dog should be in the back seat. This is what I use:usak9outfitters.com/autosafetygear.htm You may want to shop around for a water proof seat cover which we keep on our back seat to protect from dirt etc you could find one for about $20.

Here are a few other tips as you will be traveling in the summer:

PLEASE LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME IN HOT AND EVEN WARM WEATHER!

On an 85 degree day, it only takes minutes for the inside of your car reach 102 degrees even when the windows have been left open.

Within 30 minutes, a carâs interior can reach 120 degrees. When temperature outside is a pleasant 70 degrees the inside of your car maybe as much as 30 degrees hotter.

Shade offers little protection and moves with the sun. Pets at risk for hyperthermia (overheating) : young animals, elderly animals, overweight animals, those with short muzzles, and those with thick dark-colored coats.

A FORM OF CRUELTY âLITERALLYâ.

Many states and local governments have laws that prohibit leaving an animal unattended in a motor vehicle under dangerous conditions, which include warm and hot days. Under these laws, police, animal control agents, peace officers and others may be authorized to enter by whatever means necessary to remove the animal. You could have your car damaged, be charged with a crime, and fined or imprisoned. Its not worth it--donât leave your pet in the car!

HOT WEATHER TRAVELING TIPS:

*Get a veterinary checkup before traveling and make sure you have the necessary vaccination certificate for the area you will be visiting, as well as flea and tick treatments and heartworm preventative.

*Carry a gallon thermos of cold water or bring along a two-liter plastic bottle of water that you froze the night before.

*Exercise your pet during the coolest parts of the day (dawn and dusk), and never immediately following a meal.

*Hot asphalt and tar can burn sensitive paw pads. Walk your pet on grass or dirt when possible.

*Provide shade when your pet is outside on warm and hot days. Overheating Kills!

DONâT PUT YOUR PETS IN DANGERâ¦

Please DO NOT Leave Your Pet Unrestrained While Your Vehicle Is In Motion No
matter how well behaved, they are still a distraction.

During a 30 MPH collision a pet can exert a force of 20 times their bodyweight (5lb pet = 100lbs, 1200lbs for a 60lb dog!)

This also applies to anything else that is not properly tied down and will become a dangerous projectile, so for
everyoneâs safety including your pets please use a safety harness while your vehicle is in motion.

Other suggested items are a first aid kit, travel booklet containing all your pets information including photograph (s), vaccinations, veterinary information, emergency contacts, medications if any, diet and how to administer and any other information such as DO NOT LET OFF LEASH, ANIMAL BITES, PERSONALITY QUIRKS ETC. And microchip information if applicable.

You can also purchase a USB stick your pet can wear on their collarâ¦.in this day and age of computers who doesnât have one or access to one, the stick can also contain all pertinent information should your pet become separated from you or the vehicle carrying your information booklet.

Should my mom crate her puppies or sleep with them?

Anabelle R

My mom got 2 puppies of the same breed from 2 different litters, but they were born within a week of one another. She slept with them on the couch at first. Now they're both 9 weeks, going on 10 weeks. She crated them last night and they slept together fine. Tonight they seem a little more clingy. Ultimately, when they're big enough not to get hurt, she wants them to sleep on her bed, but for now she's concerned they'd fall off and hurt themselves, or heaven forbid, kill themselves as her bed is a bit high. So, should she crate them or continue sleeping on the couch with them? She feels guilty because they cry at times, but she doesn't want the dogs to be too clingy/co-dependant, and she's afraid that sleeping with them now, they might expect a spot on the bed all the time. I think they're safer in the crate until they know what they can't chew (like electrical wires or whatever). What do you think? I'd like to hear from breeders and dog owners who have had dogs for years (preferably well-behaved, socialized ones as my mom is hoping they'll become good, balanced dogs). Thanks. :)

Answer
Put the crate in the bedroom and leave a night light on so the puppies can see her.
I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:

*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.

*Outside, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.

*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.

*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do

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Serious ans plsWould I be able to get out of the following dog crate if I let my friends padlock me in it?

Amanda

Will award best ans. My friend bought this dog crate for her dog. The dog keeps breaking out of the old crates. I dont think the crate will work and one thing led to another and I think I could get out of it myself I'm like 145 I am fiesty. If I went in and they locked it and they left for work would I be able to get out relatively quickly? Link to Amazon below to see the crate:

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Select-Empire-Cage-LARGE/dp/B0050ICOW4

Answer
Hi Amanda,
The pet dog wouldn't be able to do the Houdini act had the crates door/gate been properly closed and reinforced with a release clip, like that on the end of a leash that fastens to the pet's collar.
That tends to work rather than to rely on the lift and slide bolt type, that is built into the crate. Banging repeatedly on the base of the crate could ajar the bolt causing it to open up.
It would be of a poor choice to use a padlock of any means due to having the need to get the animal out of the crate in any emergency situation. The clip release mechanism used on a leash/to collar will do the trick and it will not open no matter how much the dog digs at its base of the door/gate.
The vibration of the dog digging at the base of the door/gate makes it stick ajar...the dog sees an opening causing the dog to dig more frantcally until the dog is free. Once the problem is resolved...
there will be a new problem and that would be to check the dogs front paws for bleeding. That usually happens from the digging at the base of the door/gate. That is a new problem and to have the dog stop digging have your best friend talk to the dogs veterinarian on how to condition the dog from digging everytime it is put into the crate. 1 don't use the crate as a time out for the dog when it is be out of order lol. Make the dog adjust to the crate and you will your best friend will see the dog will go in voluntarily and not have to be dragged into it.
Hey, what do I know I had a dog Houdini who ate wooden doors to escape. Hot sause used to work until one day he wouldn't eat anything without hot sauce mixed in his dog food. And he continued eating doors. He won and I took the door down. He still wants hot sauce mixed in with his food.

Would you use a wooden crate for your great dane puppy?

frankiesmo

I have a 13 week dane puppy and I am trying to house train him. Just wanted to know if anyone has ever used or uses a wooden crate for their dane?
*Housetrain him*

Answer
When people say crate they mean dog crate made of plastic or wire. Do not use a wooden crate because the dog could chew on it and that can be dangerous. Research what a dog crate is.

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Which kind of dog can be kept as a pet in Delhi's weather??

A P

Hi i live in Delhi and would like to keep a dog as a pet. Which variety of dog can i keep considering delhi's weather??

Answer
You should seek this information from local sources, as much as possible, since they will be most familiar with your local conditions and with which breeds do well there. I suggest you start with either the Kennel Club of India

www.thekci.org

or Dogs India (www.dogsindia.com)

Good luck!

please help me to find a puppy seller in the area of new Delhi,India?

bcam

Answer
Get the Times of India/Hindustan Times sunday edition. Turn to the Classified section. Unlike America where reputable breeders usually do not like to advertise in the papers, Reputable Indian breeders do advertise in the papers. Also contact the IKC or the INKC (Indian Kennel Club or Indian National Kennel Club)- and they will refer you to breeders.

Best, is go to Blue Cross. They have wonderful dogs. They are rescues and by giving them a home, you will be saving their lives and that is very good Karma.

As for the strange people who think Indians eat dogs- you have seen Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom too many times. Indians are most likely to be vegetarian. If they are not- chicken and goat are the consumed meats- Very few Indians even eat the pork and beef that you most likely do. Dogs are eaten in the far east yes, but by getting your countries confused, you are displaying shocking ignorance.

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Why would dogs fight with each other?

Loves Dogs

Why would two dogs fight when they live together?

I have a 9 month old Shepherd/Collie mix who is spayed. I've had her for 6.5 months. I recently rescued a Golden Retriever/Pyrenees mix directly from a neglect case - he's four and neutered. Actually from my parents. We've had him for maybe three weeks. They get along great and play together all the time. They are always together. This morning they broke out into a fight in the house! I don't know what happened. Usually there is growling over food or a bone, but none of that was around them. What happened? I try to leave them out of their crates while we are gone, but not more than 2 hours at a time. Now I'm afraid to leave them out alone if they are going to fight. I don't need to come home to bloody dogs! What could have gone wrong this morning?
He has never played with toys so he doesn't have a big interest in them, but he is learning. There was a toy where they were playing and got into the fight. I feed them next to their crates in a different room. It was a loud fight, no blood, but they were really going at each other. I broke them apart and the young one lunged for one more attack.

Answer
I have 2 pyrs and an Aussie mix. Your dogs have the potential for getting along just great.

It's good that your Shep/Col is female and your Golden/Pyr is male. You have less fighting between a male/female pair than a same sex pair.

You have to be a strong Alpha Pack Leader.
You have to understand that these dogs need to establish their place in the pack.

A 4 year old male will assume he should be the alpha dog.
A 9 month old dog is at the right age to challenge any older dog to become alpha.

Before you got the 4 year old, your female was the ONLY dog, so she was the alpha dog. Now her right to be alpha is challenged by his age and his size. He's bound to be considerably bigger than she is.

SO... like it or not, some fighting will go on to establish who's THE alpha dog. One is alpha male; one is alpha female. One must be the alpha dog and she was and doesn't want to lose her position, but he wants it also.

I have trouble at times with my two males fighting, and have found that, while I don't always recognize the infraction, my Aussie (the omega dog) sometimes does SOMETHING wrong and my male pyr attacks him. You may have believe theere was no reason, but you are wrong. You just don't know what the reason for the fight was.

Pyrs have a whole set of rules. She was there first, so she sees herself as alpha. He's pyr, and she may have done something he sees as an "infraction" of pyr rules.

I stop fights inside the house as it can damage the home. Also, neither of my boys will back down, even though my male pyr is the alpha male. When I pull my pyr off my Aussie, as I pull him up, I find the Aussie hanging from his neck where he's got a bite on the pyr and won't let go. So it takes two of us to separate these boys.

As Pack Leader, you can intervene. It's your right. But, if they haven't determined who is alpha, then your intervention can confuse and delay that determination being made.

IF you already see that one is alpha, then there was simply an infraction done by the one who's not alpha and the alpha was punishing the other for the infraction.

IF you already KNOW one is alpha, then:
1) alpha dog is fed first
2) alpha dog is allowed out the door first
3) alpha dog is allowed in the door first
4) alpha dog is given treats first
etc. etc. etc.

Got it? You can't treat one as alpha right now and the other as alpha later today. If you do that, you confuse the issue. And for your dogs to be happy ONE must be alpha and each must know it's place in the pack.

Go to these websites and read up on and learn how to be Pack Leader.

Join a Pyr group. You can get some good feedback from other owners of rescued dogs, and pyrs, and several also have Aussie's.

Good luck with your challenge. @->--

p.s. I hope you understand that all dogs do play fight. It's not a serious fight unless one is baring it's teeth and snarling with an angry look on it's face.

If their fight was actually serious, then don't leave them loose in the home alone when you're gone till they settle who's alpha. It may take some time, so you have to keep an eye on things. Learn what the problem is by watching carefully and trying to think like a dog.

Your added details:
They don't want to harm each other. That was an alpha fight.
You can choose to treat her as alpha, becasue she was, but by his size, he might take it away from her.

My dogs play "king of the hill" The pyr who can consistently knock the other one down became the alpha... and that was my girl way back ... and now they are evenly matched... but she remains alpha.

housetraing dogs?

wendinella

Answer
Hi,

Housetraining is a MUST. You want to have a polite dog that knows the rules in your house and does not cause you the trouble of cleaning a mess all the time (it's not fun especially if you have the carpets;)).

Dogs are very clean animals and they do not like to make a mess in their dens in the wild and they are not happy to have a mess around them in the house either. As a dog owner it is your responsibility to teach your pooch about the basic rules in the house. Housebreaking (or housetraining) when done properly will take about a week (depending on an owner's consistency, patience, persistance, routine, etc.).

I've known people who never took the time (which is not that long at all) to housetrain their dogs and it caused a lot of frustration in the owners later on...The best thing is to housetrain your dog as soon as you get him/her.

Here are a few things that might be helpful to know about housetraining:

1. Set a schedule for your dog. Dogs LOVE to have a routine. Feed your puppy the same time every day. Don't give him the water before he goes to sleep at night.

2. Make sure you're feeding your pup the highest quality food. Premium foods may be more expensive, but it is much more digestable than grocery store brands. The puppy eats less and eliminates less often which make the housebreaking process much easier. You will also have a healthier dog.

3. The second puppy wakes up in the morning take him on a leash outside to the area you have chose to be his toilet. Keep your clothes ready and do not fool around getting him outside. If you wait until you have your coffee and breakfast to take him outside, you are forcing him to lose control of himself.

4. Make it clear that this walk is pure business, not fun and pleasure. You can give a command like "Do your business". Keep the voice low and don't excite your dog - it's a serious business. The second your puppy starts to eliminate - PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!:) After he's done eliminating, take him away from the elimination area and have a playtime as a reward.

5. It is easier and more eficient to praise your dog for going in one spot than to punish him for going in thousand different spots.
I always take my dog to the same spot right at the side of my house and when she's done she gets her walk as a reward. It is easier to pick everything up and usually I do not have to pick anything up during a walk.

6. Sensitize yourself to your dog's body language. Your puppy needs to eliminate:

- after a meal
- after a nap
- after a play session
- if he begins circling and sniffing

7. Do not leave your puppy alone in the house where you cannot see him. If you're not actively playing with him, put him in his crate (but not for longer than 4 hours!).

8. A crate should never be used as punishment. It is supposed to be your dog's safe place , his den and by using a crate as a punishment you'll make your dog to have a negative connotation with his crate. Crate is VERY useful in teaching your puppy the housebreaking rules. Dogs do not like to mess their dens and want to keep it clean.

9. Never yell at your dog. If you catch your puppy in the ACT of eliminating (which you will if he's leashed to your belt), say "NO" in a low, stern voice and run him outside. There is no need to yell at the puppy - it would make him voice shy.

10. Give him an opportunity to finish his job. When he does, PRAISE him and reward him (for example with a play session).

11. Return to the house. Don't let your pup see you clean up the mess. Clean the mess with a commercial odor neutralizer. It's important that your puppy cannot smell those spots. The smell of the places where he eliminated before will only encourage him to do it again there. It is the dogs' instinct and he's not trying to be mallicious by eliminating in the house where he can still smell the old eliminating areas.

12. Remember - it is NEVER to late to teach your dog about eliminating in the proper areas and with patience and consistency you can do it pretty quickly!

Alex

Source(s):
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
http://www.cuhumane.org/topics/housebr.h...
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/woof/tips/tip_13...

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Flying with your pet dogs?

Kisha

I'm waiting for my partner to get a house before we can move. I got a quote for flying my dog up there (from QLD to NT Australia) and it was $980. we havent moved and now got another puppy. When i fly up can i just take them as my extra luggage? pay for the crate & thier weight. surley the price would be much cheaper than $980.

Answer
I don't think you can because they have special areas for live animals so they don't suffocate or freeze to death. You need to pay for the cargo or drive them.

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what's the best crate i could carry my dog in.?

freakysocc

i'm moving in a few days and was wandering what's the best carrier/crate i can put in my backseat for my dog....she's a pit/shepard mix about 45lbs and 22-24 inches tall. i know they make the collapsable wire crates and the canvas material ones but i'm just asking opinions on what you would think is best...she chews sometimes, still in the puppy stage so i'm leary about buying a canvas one...also, i drive a taurus so what would best fit in the backseat but still give her pleanty of room?

Answer
You're going to need a pretty big crate. I'd say at least a 400 -- maybe a 500.

Crates are very expensive at pet shops. Best to get one on line, if possible. Try Moetoys.com -- they have free shipping. Or JBpet.com (not free shipping, but good prices)

As others have said -- measure the dimensions of your back seat area to see what will fit.

I'd recommend an airline crate (Vari-Kennel) fiberglass -- lighter than a metal one.

Does anyone know the dimensions of a 400 plastic dog crate?

just an op

I just need to know the dimensions of a "400" plastic crate. Thanks!

Answer
I know exactly what you're talking about.
It's 36x24x26 :)
(Length, Width, Height)

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What is the best type of dog crate to buy? (Wooden, metal, plastic, wicker, or fabric)?

.

And also, can anyone tell me if these sites are safe?
http://www.discount-pet-mall.com/pet-supplies/dog-crates/
http://www.radiofence.com/dog-crates/

or should I just get a crate at Petco/Petsmart? Thanks.

Answer
I got a metal crate from my local pet store, it's a very similar to the ones they sell at Petsmart. It's pretty sturdy, and it folds up easily for easy transport. You really should take your dog to the store with you to see how well he fits inside the crate. If he is fully grown, he should have just enough room to fully stand up and be able to turn around in a complete circle. No bigger than that.

What's a great dog for a 8 month old baby? (Experiences)?

*Lily's Ma

We were thinking about special ordering a puppy for Christmas. I've been battling in my mind on what to get. We're looking for a medium/large dog that's protective, but not aggressive towards children. I was thinking about a Canaan or Lab, but there are so many breeds out there and research is so-so online. Everyones got their "expert opinions". I'd like to get some feedback from people who have experienced young children and dog interactions first hand.

(Of course I would get it the right training and I'm a stay home mom, so it wouldn't be alone all day)

Thanks!

Answer
Well... every breed has it's positives and negatives. The fact of the matter is that every dog is it's OWN being. One border collie is great, another can't handle seeing a child run and will bite them every time. One boxer is great, another will do the signature boxing maneuver and paw them in the face. One lab is great, another takes out an eye with the whip-tail. I don't recommend any one breed for a baby. It's the temperament of the dog that matters, not the breed.

For that reason, it matters more where you order the puppy. NEVER from a place online for instance. You should be dealing with a breeder, who has rules. A good breeder will be working towards making sure the puppy is bred from good tempered adults, that it's free from health defects like hip displasia (which could make an otherwise great dog into a snappy dog since he's in pain), and socializing them from the time they are born. One of the best pups I ever met for any child was a mutt-mixed breed that the people who had bred it had worked on it from day one. It was so gentle and socialized that it was friendly with everyone.

I recommend a dog bigger than about 20lbs because under that can be hurt fairly easily by a child. You want something that does not have an elongated back because they tend to have back problems. And short muzzles can have overheating problems outside if they're running to keep up with a child (I love boston terriers for instance, but if you are in a warm climate, one running after a child may not cool down well enough.) Stay away from stupid-sounding named dogs (puggles, for instance, are a pug mixed with a beagle. This gives you a short nosed dog that can overheat with long legs and a desire to run.)

Stay away from pet-stores, online ordering, or people in parking lots (unless you can see both parents.) There are a lot of puppy mills and puppy mill dogs are not socialized well, not tested before being born (health problems), and are notoriously difficult to potty train (having been kept in a crate from day one and peeing in the crate, they don't have any issue peeing where they sleep and eat.) Most puppy mill dogs these days come from online ordering services, petstores, or from people sitting in a parking lot swearing that the parents are at home (here's a clue, if they cared about the puppies they wouldn't be exposed to the elements at that age.) There are many who sell through newspapers as well. Your best bet is to see the parents.

If you can, I would recommend getting an adult. You can be sure of the temperament that way. Working through a rescue group, they will have had the dog in a foster home and can tell you what personality the dog has. Or go to your local pound and look around week after week. My brother found a wonderful lab-aussie mix there. When she saw his grand-daughter take the leash, the dog melted and was the gentlest calmest gal in the world, so completely wrapped around that baby's finger. She's been a wonderful dog.

If not, then consider reading this book now, before you get the puppy. Ian Dunbar is recognized as basically the best dog behaviorist in the world, and the book will help you make sure your puppy does not become aggressive.

Breeds not to discount: Pit bulls. Anything from Staffordshire terriers to the American Pit Bull Terrier. There are very energetic members of the breed, but I have met more than one docile soul who is good with a baby of any size and would never be aggressive. Go back about 50 years and they were known as "nanny dogs" because they were known as being great with children, easy to train, and will put up with children (they're sturdy.) If you do consider one, make sure you check with your home owners and insurance policies to make sure the breed isn't frowned on there... for the record, even if you get a lab or a canaan, you'll find that both of those are frowned on by some places, so keep that strong in mind.

Add: Oh, and in case you're wondering... first dogs I had were 2 keeshonds, who were great dogs. Second dog was a Siberian Husky who was horrid, trained using methods by Barbara Woodhouse (similar to Millan) so he would bully us and use his muscle on us. Third was a boxer-lab mix who was sweet, but broken from Woodhouse methods. Fourth was a pit bull-chow mix and was the best dog with all the children and babies in the family at the time. Fifth was an Aussie-Border Collie mix who WOULD nip at children at times to correct them, but never broke the skin. I had to watch her around children. Sixth is a Border Collie mix who is wonderful with my daughter.

Some of the best dogs I've seen with children? A malamute-wolf mix, a pit bull (several actually), a rottweiler, this line of mastiffs, and a line of labs. The lines were worked on from birth, and the breeders prided their dogs on child friendly, so it showed.

Add: I do want to point out that I don't recommend a wolf-mix for anyone. This one happened to be owned by a behaviorist so he got the very best training, but he STILL destroyed a LOT of things (including an entire couch.) He was great with her kids partly because of his age (he wasn't young) and because of her ability to train (she was a certified behaviorist.) However, malamutes are known as being good kid dogs, if you get them from good lines. It's one of the things they were originally bred for, to be slightly slower and more patient with kids who were starting out in training them to run.

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What can a teen do for fun during the summer??

Kelsey R

I get out of school for summer in 10 days and I don't know what I'm going to do this summer. I'm 15, which is too young to get a job in my area, and also too young to drive (I have my permit, but no license). My parents both work all day, so they can't drive me anywhere during the day. They also won't let me walk anywhere more than a few blocks from my house, or ride the city bus. Not that there's anywhere to go around here anyway, because there's no fun places to go near my house. None of my friends live in my neighborhood. My summers so far have been unbelievably lame. I just sit around all day watching tv or whatever, which gets old REALLY fast. So my question is, what can I do for fun during the summer, specifically things that will let me get out of the house, and especially during the day when nobody's home. And don't say like "go to the beach" or "go swimming", because the beach is an hour drive away, and I don't have a pool and there isn't one nearby.
Whoever said that thing about "go to Oregon and get high", what do you mean by that, because dude I live in Oregon!

Answer
I'm 15 too, and I have the same situation as you most of the time! Yet there are many things you can do. Here are a few things and you can choose any you like.

Even though your friends live in your neighborhood, you can give them a call or email them, and have a game night! Pop some popcorn, play either video games, card games (my favorite), board games, or night games.

Go door to door with your parents and meet some new neighbors.

You can also have a dog walking job and offer to walk peoples' dogs.

Go shopping at a local mall

Paint your fingernails a funky color or design.

Grab some running shoes and go running down your neighborhood area.

Make up a new, fun, delicious recipe. You can make your favorite recipe and add one of your favorite spices or foods.

If nobody is home, it is the perfect time to sing along to some of your favorite songs and practice singing!

Make up a new dance

Have some friends pick you up and you can all hang out at someone's house.

Plant some flowers in your garden if your parents let you.

Create a scrapbook full of pictures, cool papers, and quotes.

Take some pictures of random things with a good camara. You can mess with lighting, angles, etc.

Research your family tree

Tie-dye some shirts

Buy some plain, white shoes from Walmart and decorate them with markers or paints

Sign up for your local library reading program

Organize a scavenger hunt with your neighbors

Re-decorate your room.

Go shopping online.

Go down a slide at McDonald's or Burger King or some fast-food place on a tray

Create a mixed cd with your favorite songs

Go camping in your backyard

Research things on an online encyclopedia and learn something new

Create a book full of your favorite quotes

Try to blow the biggest bubble from bubblegum and don't forget to take pictures!

Run through your sprinklers

Jump rope and set your own record

Got any good anime's like Durarara!! and Baccano?

DaRkWiNdS

Because I love these shows. No critics please. (Unless you're telling me how good the shows were or how good the shows you are about to tell me are.) Because I LIKE these shows.

Thanks ^w^
Lol I see XD

Answer
Kamisama no Memochou

Narumi Fujishima is a plain high school boy, who has been isolated in class. His classmate, Ayaka Shinozaki, invites Narumi to the gardening club and introduces a hikikomori detective named Alice to him. Alice hires Narumi as an assistant to solve mysterious cases.

http://myanimelist.net/anime/10568/Kamisama_no_Memochou

Darker than Black: Kuro no Keiyakusha

In Tokyo, an impenetrable field known as "Hell's Gate" appeared ten years ago. At the same time, psychics who wield paranormal powers at the cost of their conscience also emerged. Hei is one of the most powerful of these psychic agents, and along with his blind associate, Yin, works for one of the many rival agencies vying to unlock the mysteries of Hell's Gate.

http://myanimelist.net/anime/2025/Darker_than_Black:_Kuro_no_Keiyakusha

Higashi no Eden

On November 22, 2010 ten missiles strike Japan. However, this unprecedented terrorist act, later to be known as "Careless Monday," does not result in any apparent victims, and is soon forgotten by almost everyone. Then, 3 months later... Saki Morimi is a young woman currently in the United States of America on her graduation trip. But just when she is in front of the White House, Washington DC, she gets into trouble, and only the unexpected intervention of one of her fellow countrymen saves her. However, this man, who introduces himself as Akira Takizawa, is a complete mystery. He appears to have lost his memory, is stark naked, except for the gun he holds in one hand, and the mobile phone he's holding in the other. A phone that is charged with 8,200,000,000 yen in digital cash.

http://myanimelist.net/anime/5630/Higashi_no_Eden

Dogs: Bullets & Carnage

It is sometime in the future, where a certain European city extends far underground, even secret, dark levels that have the key to the past. Ex-assassin Mihai has returned and is living with Kiri, who now runs a resturaunt. Sword-wielding Naoto, Haine (white hair), a mysterious product of genetic engineering and his sometime partner Badou (eyepatch).

http://myanimelist.net/anime/5593/Dogs:_Bullets_&_Carnage

Gosick

The year is 1924, the place, Saubure, a small European country neatly tucked beside the Alps...

Kazuya Kujo has been studying abroad at the prestigious Saint Marguerite Academy, where urban legends and horror stories are all the rage. Most Kazuya ignores but the story of the Queen Berry, a mysterious ghost ship, really gets to him. Of course, his brainy friend Victorique is much more intrigued by true stories, and she uses her unrivaled logic to solve mysteries even the town's famous detective can't. Ironically, it is Victorique's inquisitive nature that leads the duo to board a ship that matches the Queen Berry's description to a tee, a ship that might just hold the key to solving a sinister mystery...

http://myanimelist.net/anime/8425/Gosick

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What does it mean to "crate train" your puppy?

g

Hi I might be getting a puppy soon, and some people said a good way to potty train it is to crate train it....I was wondering what exactly this is....Please help, and any other tips on potty training would be appreciated. Thanks.
P.S.-The puppy is 2 months old.
P.P.S.S. Also, when can I train it to go outside? It's a cockapoo, if that makes a difference. THANK YOU!

Answer
Read my article on crate training:

Crate training is one of the best things that you can do for your dog. It is also a great way to start off on the right foot for obedience training. You have to prepare yourself far more than you have to prepare your dog for this training. To most people, the crate conjures up ideas of a jail or punishment for your dog. The most difficult part of this training is to help owners realize the difference in the dogâs point of view.

We have to realize that a dog looks at a crate as a safe comfortable place to rest and not as a jail. Crate training is the way to go!

Scientists and doctors and animal rights groups have studied crate training for years. The one thing that they can all agree on is that it is NOT inhumane or cruel to your dog. Actually just the opposite applies. A crate provides a den or a hiding spot where the dog feels secure. It also provides a place where he can sleep, rest, or hide toys. Dogs live their lives by using their instincts, and having a den is one of these instincts.

The biggest hurdle that you will encounter when crate training, is the crying. It is true that when your dog is crying he is trying to tell you something. What the dog is telling you is that he is bored and maybe lonely. There are several ways to get past the crying stage of this, but first you have to understand what is happening.

Dogs are pack animals. Generally they do not like to be by them selves. When they are separated from the pack (you and your family), they start to get anxious. Remember, that a pack of dogs sleep in a den usually, not just one. So this new concept, just like every new concept, takes a little time to get used to. HAVE PATIENCE. It is up to you to make the crate positive. Never make the crate the place that the dog goes after he has been corrected. This needs to be a fun happy place for the dog. There are two basic types of crates. One is made of plastic or fiberglass and has slotted holes on the sides and a metal door on one end. This type of crate is thought to give the dog more of a sense of security. It is darker and has less ventilation.

The other style is the metal crate. It is made of metal bars, has plenty of light and ventilation. This gives the dog less of a security sense, but more interaction with what is going on around it. You should keep in mind the size that your dog will grow to and buy for that size. Any smaller and you will have to buy more than one crate. Any larger and your dog will be able to go to the bathroom in one end of the crate and still sleep at the other and this will inhibit house breaking.

The crate should be in a high traffic area during the day, so that the dog has social contact. Dogs thrive off of contact. Take it slow. Put your dog in the kennel for minutes at first.

1. Lure him in with a treat and leave the door open. When he gets comfortable with this, let him eat a meal in the crate, putting the bowl in the back of the crate and closing the door.

2. After he becomes totally comfortable with this, close the door and lock it.

3. Make it as comfortable as you can for the dog, not for you. Some dogs like fluffy pillows and blankets, some dogs just eat them and end up being fine with nothing in the crate but a toy. 4. Never take the dog out of the kennel when they throw a fit. Instead, wait until they calm down, and make the exit a positive association. If you give in to the dog, you will be reinforcing a behavior that the dog will associate crying and barking with being let out and he will do this until it is corrected.


The first night that you begin crate training, expect that he will whine and whimper. It is simply telling you that it wants attention. You will eventually learn the difference between a cry for attention and a cry to go to the bathroom. If you follow a schedule for feeding and going out, then it will be much easier to time when you take the dog out.

How long should you crate train a dog?

Gary

I have 10 month old Morkie. My wife and I leave him in the crate whenever we can't supervise him. We both feel that he will destroy the place unattended. I asked my vet and trainers at petsmart the same question and they told me that you can leave him in the crate as long as you want because the dog will associate the crate as his "home". On the other hand I have people who tell me that leaving a dog crated can cause mental issues. Not sure what to do.

Answer
crates are meant as a training tool and not where a dog lives ... so for when a pup is a pup and in puppy chew stuff apart stage, and while housebreaking, but when a dog is trained, there is no reason to remove the crate entirely but just remove the door ... i crated my dog till her first birthday but by the 8th month i could put her in, close the door but not latch, and she would still be in the crate when i got home ... but when she turned 1 the door came off ... why do you think your pup would destroy stuff, it is almost full grown ??? if the dog is destructive outside the crate, it requires training outside the crate but by a year old puppies are usually out of their destructive phases and are housebroken ... if your dog is both, try closing the door and no latching and see what happens ...

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Is it OK to crate an adult dog?

DD_838

I own a 10 month old puggle and a 13 month chihuahua. Whenever I go out my puggle damages something. I have no idea why. I was wondering if it would be OK to buy a large crate and keep him in it while I am gone. I usually never leave for more than 6 hours, with an average of 2. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

Just a note: He has never been in a crate before so, I am afraid it will traumatize him.
Thanks for all the great answers so far.
I was also wondering, should I put my chihuahua in there with him? It seems odd to have 1 dog in the crate and the other running around the house while I am gone.

Answer
My dogs are crated at night and when we go out. Bindi is 2 and Max 5 or 6. Crating an adult is fine.

Just make make sure that you introduce the dog to the crate. The following was written for puppies, but applies to adults as well.

When looking for a crate you want one that is big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down. You don't want it so big that he can lay in one end and use the other end as a bathroom. If he can do this trust me he will. There are all kinds of different styles of crates: the two most common are wire and plastic. But they come in mesh, wicker, all sorts of different materials now. I would recommend choosing either a wire or plastic one, especially for puppies that like to chew. Here are some pros and cons of plastic and wire crates.

Plastic: These come in several sizes so can accommodate nearly every size of dog. They also give a more den like feeling to the dog and have less of a cage look. The disadvantage to these crates is that you may need to buy more than one to accommodate a growing puppy, and they take up more room if you want to store them even though they usually will come apart in halves for storage. There are also some newer plastic crates that will fold up similar to a wire crate.

Wire: Like the plastic crate these also come in a variety of sizes. They do look more like cages though, something that can be fixed by purchasing a cover for it. A cover will also help some dogs feel more secure in a wire crate. The advantage of these is that you can buy a size to fit your dog when it is full grown. Wire crates have dividers available for purchase so that you can make the crate fit your puppy. These also have a storage advantage in that most fold up very neatly and can be stored easily.

Next you will need to introduce your puppy to its crate. Just sticking the puppy in there without a positive introduction can be very stressful for the pup. I like to bring a new puppy home on a day off, and try to pick it up as soon as possible in the morning. This way I have all day to introduce the puppy to the crate so that by bedtime the puppy will feel pretty comfortable with its crate and shouldn't fuss to much.

Start by showing the puppy the crate and let him explore it. Next show your puppy a treat and then toss it inside. When your puppy goes in to get the treat praise him excitedly. Repeat this a few times and then end this session. If your pup won't go all the way in the crate to get the treat try throwing it closer to the door, or even outside the door and then gradually toss it farther back, until the pup goes all the way in.

After an hour or two have another session with crate. If your pup went all the way in the last time start there, if not start at the point you left off. After a couple times of going in the crate and coming right back out you can shut the door. But let the pup out after a second or two. Repeat this gradually increasing the amount of time the pup is in the crate. If you do this several times the first day by the time your ready for bed your pup should be pretty comfortable with the crate. I also like to repeat this process for a day or two after the pup comes home.

Also remember that whenever your dog is crated you need to remove any type of collar, even a buckle collar can catch on a crate and strangle a dog.

http://www.tiaspetplace.com/housetraining_your_puppy_or_dog.htm

What Size Crate for Dog?

unvoicedol

What size crate is recommended for a Standard Poodle?
What are the measurements?

Thanks!

Answer
Generally a large size crate would work, I was just looking this up the other day b/c we are considering getting a standard poodle soon as well. If you go to petsmart.com and look at the crates, it will tell you the size of dog they will accomodate, and if you know about how tall and big your dog will be as a full grown dog, you can match up the sizes of the crates with your dog. :)

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