I have a 3 month old almost 4 beagle who keeps peeing in her kennel and all over the house?

best dog kennel ever image

Jessi

She won't poop in her kennel ever anymore, but it's like she can't hold Her pee. We have been potty training for about a month and a half now, but when she's out and about she pees a little here a little there. We have had her seen by vets and they are treating her for Giardia again, and they haven't seen anything indicating kidney problems or a UTI. She drinks a lot of water as well and her urine is like water, not concentrated at all. Also she Is perfectly fine with everything else. Does anyone have any suggestions or have had similar problems?

Answer
How much is she's drinking? Sometimes when the dog is well hydrated it can make their urine a little clear.

Otherwise if it's not that it would be a urinary/kidney problem.
Have you thought of getting a second opinion?

Iv'e attached a link to a forum that also has a dog with clear urine with no other symptoms. Maybe you could find a better answer there to what's wrong with your dog.

http://www.i-love-dogs.com/forums/dog-health-nutrition/32105-diluted-urine-w-no-other-symptoms.html

It may be nothing but better to be on the safe side.

how to get into the dog kennel business?

Kaley

I am graduating high school in a few months and I would like to pursue a job in owning a dog kennel/grooming business. I know you can go to a dog grooming school to get certified to be a dog groomer, but should I go ahead and go to college? If so what degree would I need to pursue this career? I plan on working for someone to start off. Then once I get enough experience I would love to have my own kennel/grooming business.

Answer
I work at a kennel. And let me tell you, it is not doing well in this economy. The only time it's really ever busy is well during Christmas and other major holidays.
The owners are struggling a lot.

But, she started off with being a dog groomer in Vegas. One of the top ones. And bought a kennel from someone selling theirs. I'm not really sure if she went to college.

I know in Kansas, there is a law you have to have like 15 or so acres before you are allowed to open. I don't think there would be a big change in other states. And you would have to get your license for it from your state. And yes, I would suggest you start working for someone and talk to them about the hardships and the pluses of owning such a place.

And you would have to always have to buy a constant supply of bleach and Pine sol. Which is what we clean the runs with. Enough to kill the bacteria and such but not hurt the dogs.

Good luck. :]

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how tough are they really!!?

dog crates jeep grand cherokee image

missjellyb

yesterday i was driving with my windows down (it was beautiful outside) on my way to my parents house with my puppy capone (he's a miniature chihuahua), when i got in front of my parents house he got really excited to see my parents dog Gizmo and jumped out the window!!! i was still going 10-15mph and he jumped out! he started screaming/crying so i jumped out the car and ran to pick him up and console him and see if he was ok... and all he had was a little scratch on his chin!! i drive a jeep grand cherokee and thats a FAR way for such a little (3lb) guy to fall from i thought for sure that he broke a leg or punctured a lung or something.. but no, he was out in the yard running around about 5 minutes later. (of course i was still crying... he's like my son!!)

heres my question- my vet always told me how brittle and frail those little dog's bones and bodies are so ive always babied him to the extreme- but to take a fall like that... ?
Ok, tomorrow morning ill make an appointment for him to be checked.. thanks for everyones concerns... i was honestly and still AM absolutley amazed that he even survived a jump/fall like that. ive been so worried about him but i pressed his tummy arms legs and chest and he didnt whine or cry so it gave me some peace of mind. also just so everyone knows, my windows weren't even all the way down, he loves to put his head out the window when i drive- like most dogs do- and he was just sitting in the seat then out of nowhere jumped out! so scary. thanks for the input guys!

Answer
Any time a dog jumps out of a moving vehicle you should always take them to the vet ASAP. They could have underlying injuries you don't know about - and dogs can mask pain pretty well.

You should NEVER drive with the windows open unless your dog is properly restrained. Heck, i try to tell people that you shouldn't drive with your dog unless he is in a crate! A crate is the safest place for a dog while you are driving. A seatbelt for the dog is the second best option. A dog running loose in a car is a major distraction to the driver and can be a hazard - they can jump, they can crawl all over you, they can distract other drivers, etc.

I personally don't allow my dog to stick her head out the window either. A low hanging branch or flying debris can seriously injure a dog and i don't want to imagine what could happen to her eyes with all the allergens and particles flying around.

My trainer had a dog with her in the back of her jeep with one of those bar dividers to keep him in the back. She got into a car accident one day - the dog survived the accident only to jump, panicked, out of the broken back window. He got hit by a second car driving by. Since then she always crates her dogs and tells her "pupils" to do the same to provide the dog with a big more security and safety.

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How do I get my dog adjusted to being at a kennel while I am away?

top dogs home boarding image

Lesley C

I am going on vacation without the family dog this time. She has never been in a kennel. We are flying out of town for three to four days over the holidays but cannot take her on the plane and don't want to drive 15 hours with a dog to our destination. Plus many hotels are not dog-friendly.

Answer
Just inspect the boarding kennel before you leave your dog there, and provided you are happy with what you see (and smell!!) and feel comfortable with the owners etc., go on your holiday! Believe me, she's not going to fade away in 3/4 days in any case, much as she'll certainly miss you. Dogs in kennels actually have loads of things to occupy them - if only the other dogs. But there's always lots going on in kennels and my experience (I've worked in Boarding Kennels) is by the time they are shut in their beds, they zonk out. Many kennels will take their boarders out for walks during their stay too.

If you don't like what you see when you check the place out - move on. Some kennels are better than others, but if the boarders in there when you visit look happy and well cared for (water bowls topped up etc.), you have nothing to worry about. Honestly.

ps If you are seriously worried that your girl won't cope with Boarding, have you considered having a home-sitter in to be with her in your own home?

What countries in the world require a passport for a dog?

labrador_l

I plan to go on vacation to another country and I would like to bring along my dog. What countries, do you know require that a dog should have a passport?

Answer
Very few.
You obviously don't understand the difference between the "Pet Passport" used to allow qualifying dogs to travel around the European Economic Community and the British Isles, and the passport-with-visas that a citizen carries when travelling abroad.

EVERY nation places health requirements on livestock and plant materials that people wish to bring in to the nation, in order to keep out viruses and insect pests and bacteria and ticks, etc, that the nation is so far free of. In the case of dogs, the usual requirement is an inspection and blood titration by a vet licensed by the nation's Ministry of Agriculture BEFORE the pooch gets on the ship or plane (my X litter got born in Britain because the pregnant German brood failed one of the titrate tests so was refused access to the plane she was booked onto), and a thorough inspection on arrival. Clean countries such as Australia and NZ then require that the pooch spends a session in quarantine, unless the pooch arrives after a residency period in the other, or Britain, or Hawaii, or Scandinavia. (Points out how few truly clean countries there are, biologically, eh!)

So you need to write down the order of the countries you intend to travel through (which might be none, if you fly non-stop from home to the destination country), then contact either the embassy/consulate of each country you propose to go through, or your own Agriculture Dept, and find out the regulations for entry into each country from each preceding country.

A blind person can have the quarantine set aside for their guide dog, but no-one can have it set aside for a pet dog.

Unless you live in that "Pet Passport" area, I reckon that you'll need to find a top-quality boarding kennel for your pet while you are away travelling.

â Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as rescue groups, feeding, vaccinations, worming, clubs, teething, neutering, size, diseases, genetics.

â To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with them. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos in your messages.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967

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My 8 week old teething puppy is chewing (not eating) the paint off a cinder-block garage. Ideas to stop it?

dog crates made in usa image

Monica

She has lots of food/water/toys and the garage is cooled. I tried spraying diluted Tobasco on the wall - but it wears off quickly.

I rather have her tied up outside while I'm at work instead of the crate all day. My other dog is bigger and housebroken, so he gets the run of the house while I'm at work while the pup is outside. Is the puppy lonely?

Answer
Make what you want the puppy to leave alone, taste horrible!
I use cayenne pepper powder. You could spray soapy water on it, then dust it (with a puffer bottle) while wet. That should make the powder adheer better. You may have do do this a few times, but with my older (1yo) dog, it only took 1 or 2x.
This doesn't necessarily smell bad, but it does hurt, without harming them. They will tend to remember pain better than an unpleasant odor...

Don't stop there, though. Be sure to provide the puppy with several other, APPROVED items to chew on! Teach it that ou LIKE whe it chews on those items, by prasing it when it gives them any attention. I put my dog's dry kibble in a sturdy PVC bottle, & taught them to extract the food from it. That takes them about an hour... There is the "Kong" toy that is made of Very Strong rubber (the black one is strongest), which you can put some sticky food inside, which the dog has to lick out. The correct size of "Kong" makes an ideal chew toy!

Is there some reaswon why you can't leave your other dog in the yard with the puppy? They are pack animals, & prefer company. Especially a very young puppy! It needs a parent figure to bond with. The adult dog can discipline the pup, like its parent would. (Assuming that the two dogs get along OK together.) I once had a litter of pups that had to be raised buy the father, because the mother (she'd been a stray) was so immature that she was very rough with her pups, as though she was one of them! They were very young yet, & would hide from her between my legs. So, once they were weaned, I kept the pups w/ their father in another yard. He was an excellent 'Papa Dog'!

I think it's England that has a law against having only one pet, as it's considered inhumane to make them spend long periods of time alone, cats included (even though they aren't pack animals).

In CA-USA it is against the law to leave a dog tied for over 3 hrs per day, as that is considered inhumane (unless you're using a long line between poles to tie its 'leash' to, where it run back & forth, & can move around a lot *without getting tangled* up).

I'm sure you know that the pup needs to be kept where it can't get into any trouble (like chewing through electric wires). If outside is your only option, & the other methods I've suggested aren't enough, you might want to install some kind of electric fence. I have one (to keep 1 of our dogs from going over, but they can be installed near the ground, too, provided you keep plants from touching them).

I hope the two dogs are able to spend the time you're away, *together with each other*. They should both benefit from the companionship!

EDITED IN 5 hrs LATER:

I got your email. So, you keep the pup *inside* the garage? I was thinking you might put an electric fence around the outside, as I thought that was where it had access to the paint.

You might want to try EFT. I've used it on both physical & emotional issues for my family & our pets---successfully. The instructions are free online. Here's a site that will direct you to them, as well as an explanation of what EFT is:

"Welcome to Animaleze"
Using EFT, an E-Z and extremely effective tool for helping your animals overcome physical and emotional pain.
www.animaleze.com/

"Pets--How Do You View Them?"
http://watchtower.org/e/20040222a/article_01.htm
(my favorite 'pet' articles)

I'm flying with my dog in Cargo I've read online about something called the crate mate, where can I get one?

bk

We're flying USA 3000, from Tampa to Detroit, in about 3 weeks. The "Crate Mate" thing is supposedly made of heavy duty backpack like material that bolts to the dogs crate, it holds all paperwork required to fly, and spare water and food, in case of any problems. I read about it on this website: http://www.bcrescue.org/flying.html

Answer
First, let me start by saying that I read the article on which you were referring to. I can't say that I found it the least bit correct or even educational. It is full of garbage. A few things I found completely incorrect were:

Try to get a wide-body plane. Ask what type of plane you'll be flying in. If you don't know which plane is which, then ask them if it is a wide-bodied jet (for instance, a 767 isn't - it's a cigar, a DC-10 is). A 767 is a wide body aircraft. Most airlines do not even fly the DC 10s anymore...they are being phased out with 767 or 777 aircraft.

I always keep my dog until about 25 minutes until the plane's scheduled to take off. Don't let them push you into taking your dog earlier than that. If you do this, you will miss your flight...it takes time to get through security and to your gate. And the cut-off time to board is 10 minutes before departure.

You could tip the guy that is taking your dog. I always have given the guy a few dollars, saying that he is supposed to take good care of this dog. I don't know if it has helped, but it certainly can't hurt. Don't tip...we are just doing our job. And if you are shipping your dog via cargo, you have already paid us.

Ok, now that I have said that, let me explain something to you. The air cargo facility should package all of your papers neatly together for you and seal them in a plastic bag on the outside of the crate. I don't recommend bringing spare water. Most places have free water (water fountains and such). And if you are shipping your dog via cargo, upon arrival at your destination, the air cargo facility will be more than willing to give your animal some water. As for the food, I have seen many people ziploc a bag full of dog food and try taping it to a crate. These bags always rip or fall off. Trust me...I deal with it all the time. The best solution to you is that you pack a small bag in your checked luggage or just buy it when you get to your destination. If you feel the need to bring some, then I would recommend you finding a plain ole fanny pack and fill it with dog food pellets. You can also put the leash in there and strap it to the crate. I wouldn't waste time or alot of $$$ with a "crate mate". It will just become something you may not need or use in the future. At least with the fanny pack, you can still use it on walks for treats and such.

And one last thing about that article and then I'll be quiet. Most baggage handlers love pets. We see them everyday. We want you and your animal to get there safely and very comfortably. If you do not want anyone to feed or give water to your animal, write, "Please do not feed me". I recommend you put your animal's name on the outside of the crate. We will call your dog by their name and they will feel like they have friends when you are not around. We will keep your pet out of the heat (and most airlines do have pet embargos during the hot/cold times of the year). We will not "forget" to put your dog in the heated part of the cargo hold. That is just ridiculous.

I hope that something I have said will help you in your journey and have a great flight.

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What does it require to travel with two dogs?

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chullin

I just got two puppies(stray),but im moving to new york.Im from puerto rico. what does my two dogs require to have for them to travel with me?and how much would it cost?

Answer
Call the airline. If they are small enough and you can fit both in a carrier under your seat you should be fine. But some airlines allow larger dogs to stay in their crate under the airplane (above the luggage area) in a climate/ oxygen controlled area. I hope this helps!

Is it safe to travel with my dog on a plane?

redhead27

I have heard that there are some horror stories and the airline employees put the animal at the wrong end of the plane where the air is not pressurized.

Does anyone have experience with dogs on a plane as cargo? I am traveling with mine in late september and a little nervous.

Answer
A friend of mine travels with his siberian husky from New York to California at least every other month, and has never had any problems. He jokes that if his dog had a frequent flier number, he would have racked up a lot of miles by now.

His advice:

Make sure you notify the airlines that you are flying with a pet. They need to know so that they will prepare for it. Most airlines will not allow you to fly with a dog without prior arrangement.

When you check in, make sure to mention again that you are flying with a pet.

When you are boarding the plane, mention one more time that you are flying with your pet. This will ensure that at least 3 people at 3 different times heard you.

For your dog:

freeze some water and then attach it in the crate. As the flight goes on, he will have a constant supply of water nearby that won't spill. He puts calming formula in the water, which helps to calm his dog. http://www.petherbsdirect.com/calming-formula-for-dogs-2-p-54.html?osCsid=8648cfc02019953d7a506574e3640108

Feed him a small meal a couple of hours before flying and then walk him. Make sure he has a bowel movement. Allow him to stretch his legs and try to tire him out. He will rest for most of the flight.

Place a toy or favorite blanket in the crate.

Make sure that your dog has tags with a number where you can be reached. Make sure that the crate has the same info.


Best of luck on your trip.

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How To Build A Cheap Dog Raising Indoor/Outdoor Kennel?

best indoor dog kennel designs image

Brooke

I have decided to raise dogs. I chose miniature snauzhers, and I am trying to decided on a design for the kennel. I am going to have four dogs in the kennel, and thinking maybe a storage shelter thing, that is divided into four sections, with a doggy door and four seperate dog runs? Any more ideas? I have read a lot on the breed, and know what hard work is. I can take care of the dogs, and will have a breeders' license from AKC, and will NOT be running a puppy mill, so please don't put rude comments!
Thanks
Loraine: Oh I am oh sooooooo sorry that I spelt the name wrong. That must make me an idiot! Wow. And it will be a large building that is heated or cooled. Did I not just say that I didn't want rude comments?! Smh at you. And I won't be running a puppy mill. I will be using them to better the breed, and to make people happy with a new puppy. Once again, apparently I should just give up my dream. The dogs would be constantly walked, the cages cleaned, each one having a large seperate room, that is heated and cooled

Answer
Please learn to spell your chosen breeds name before you look into doing any breeding.

how to punish your dog ?

s.rivas

he is misbehaving when i am gone ! When i am home he never chews on anything or bother besides with his toys !! I need help , i need something that will make him understand what he is did was wrong !!

Answer
no no no no no!

These are NOT good suggestions :(

The thing you HAVE to remember with animals is that they don't have long term memories, and CAN'T connect the punishment' with the 'did bad'.

Here's the scenario:

Your pup is home, alone and bored and curls up with your favorite pair of shoes. They smell like you. This is happy. Being a dog, after a couple minutes he starts to gnaw on them because they also spell of other things not too differnet from his toys. Proudly, he tears them apart and leaves them in the middle of the floor so that when you come home you can see what a good hunter he was and howgood he did. You come home, hours later, and he gallosp up to meet you at the door, tail wagging happily.. Anger clouds your eyes and you start yelling. He doesn't know what you're saying or why you're angry. All he knows is that you're there suddenly yelling at him for greeting him at the door.

you should NEVER hit an animal. It happens sometimes, but, ther's a big diference between a tap on the nose and "No Bite." and hauling off and smacking him.

To me, it sounds like your dog is bored. So he goes looking for evertainment, jsut as you might open a book or log on to the internet.

I think the best idea for you is crate training. You can find a wole lot of pages abuot HOW to crate train your dog, just by googling 'crate training'... but the short version of what creat training is as follows: You get a suitabley sized cage/indoor kennel, and over the course of time, you help your animal to learn that that cage is his 'room'. This is NOT done by locking him in it... it takes time, to make the cage seem like an interesting and unscary place to be, and you slowly start closing him inside the cage for short durations, building up to longer periods...

Properly trained, the dog will go to his 'room' when he's scared, or tired or jsut wanting to chill out somewhere. Then, at this point, you can start to leave him locked in the crate when you go out. again, this will take TIME.

The crate is NOT a place of punnishment and should ONLY have positive associations with it. Crate training is very useful also if you ever expect to have guests over who might not approciate your dog's attentions, or if you need to travel with him.

This will take a while, but ultimately will pay off. :)

In the mean time, try to keep tempting things out of jaw's reach.

Also, consider getting him a few toys (rotate them out) that are designed to keep him busy... balls that distributed tiny treats one bit at a time, those rubber kong things that you can spear Peanutbutter into, etc.

Though the suggestions for leaivng the radio on is a good one too. :D

This is a hard question to answer because there's so much we don't know. Is he alone? how old is he? how long has he been yours? is he a breed known for separation anxiety?

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I am looking to adopt or acquire a baby or young Pug and pom?

bennyinny

Does anyone know where or who may have one or both available at a reasonable adoption fee. In central to east-central florida...
Space Coast area
I have no intention of going to buy one - I would much rather adopt/rescue/safe one or take one off someones hands that may have had a litter they cant handle/afford or want.

Answer
Pugs and Poms are very popular and you're not likely to find anyone giving them away. You shouldn't get two pups at one time - get one first, get it completely trained and then get another dog. Getting two pups at the same time leads to a lot of problems - they get all the attention they need from each other and don't need your affection or approval, which makes them even tougher to train. And if one pees in the house, the other will be attracted to the smell and do it also.

Even "free" dogs cost money to take care of. If the dog isn't properly trained, it can chew up your house and your stuff. If it's not housebroken, it can ruin your floors and your furniture. How "free" is a dog that does $1000 in damage to your house? Many "free" dogs turn out to be sick - how "free" is a dog that costs you $800 at the vet because he has Parvo or distemper or heartworm?

A good pup can easily cost $1000 or more. All dogs require a lot of time, energy and money to take care of properly. A crate, books and supplies can cost up to $300. Puppy shots are $200, then $100 a year for boosters. Annual Heartworm test and preventative medication $100. Professional trainer $600 and up. Going on vacation? Boarding kennel $40/day. Spaying? $250. If you can't afford to pay for a good dog, maybe you can't afford to maintain one either?

BEFORE you get any dog you should read some great books on training. (Try not to pick books randomly - there are a lot of bad books out there also!) These are some of my favorites and you can get them on Amazon.com
What All Good Dogs Should Know - Volhard
Good Owners, Great Dogs - Brian Kilcommins
Dog Tricks : Eighty-Eight Challenging Activities for Your Dog from World-Class Trainers by Haggerty and Benjamin
Don't Shoot the Dog - Pryor
Training Your Dog: The Step by Step Method - Volhard
Dog Problems - Benjamin
Cesar's Way - Cesar Millan
Also, watch the Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic Channel. Cesar Millan is the best trainer I've ever seen on TV.

Find a good breeder by going to www.akc.org or talking to people at dog shows. You can also find info about the breed clubs on the akc site - they probably have a rescue group where you can get an older dog for less money. The best breeders will be members of their breed club, promoting healthy dogs with great temperaments. They should ask you a bunch of questions to make sure their puppy will be getting a good home. If all a "breeder" seems to care about is whether your check will clear, you can be sure he won't care a week later when the pup is dying from distemper or parvo and you want your money back.

Whatever you do, DON'T go to a pet shop, a flea market or buy one sight-unseen off the Internet!!!! You'll pay top dollar for what is usually a poor quality puppy mill dog. And you'll be supporting one of the cruelest industries in the country. The breeding animals are often kept in deplorable conditions - spending their entire lives in small wire-bottomed cages. They probably haven't been vaccinated against contagious diseases or tested for any health or temperament problems or genetic diseases - that costs money and cuts into their profits. A female is often bred every time she comes into heat. When her poor little body can't take it any more, she is often clubbed in the head and tossed into a dumpster or an open ditch. Most puppy mills ship their pups to pet stores at wholesale prices and many pups die before they even get there.

These so-called "breeders" have now figured out that they can use the internet to ship a dog directly to the customer and thus make more money by cutting out the middleman. If you buy a dog from out of state, good luck getting your money back if there's something wrong with the pup. These people count on you becoming instantly attached to the poor little guy and being willing to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars at the vet to treat whatever is wrong with him.

does anyone sell AKC chihuahuas in indiana for reasonable prices?

kiki

mostly looking for the ones that will be 6 lbs and under full grown. mostly the 2, 3 or 4 lb ones. if so email me at mulek_1404@yahoo.com .

Answer
Chihuahuas are VERY popular right now and a good one was never cheap. Beware of people selling puppies at "reasonable" prices! Even free dogs cost money to take care of. If the dog isn't properly trained, it can chew up your house and your stuff. If it's not housebroken, it can ruin your floors and your furniture. How "free" is a dog that does $1000 in damage to your house? Many "free" dogs turn out to be sick - how "free" is a dog that costs you $800 at the vet because he has Parvo or distemper or heartworm?

A good pup can easily cost $1000 or more. All dogs require a lot of time, energy and money to take care of properly. A crate, books and supplies can cost up to $300. Puppy shots are $200, then $100 a year for boosters. Annual Heartworm test and preventative medication $100. Professional trainer $600 and up. Going on vacation? Boarding kennel $40/day. Spaying? $250. If you can't afford to pay for a good dog, maybe you can't afford to maintain one either?

Don't get a dog just because it's "cute" - you have to be able to live with its behavior (like barking and nipping and being hard to housebreak)!!! Find a good breeder by going to www.akc.org or talking to people at dog shows. You can also find info about the breed clubs on the akc site - they probably have a rescue group where you can get an older dog for less money. The best breeders will be members of their breed club, promoting healthy dogs with great temperaments. They should ask you a bunch of questions to make sure their puppy will be getting a good home. If all a "breeder" seems to care about is whether your check will clear, you can be sure he won't care a week later when the pup is dying from distemper or parvo and you want your money back.

Whatever you do, DON'T go to a pet shop, a flea market or buy one sight-unseen off the Internet!!!! You'll pay top dollar for what is usually a poor quality puppy mill dog. And you'll be supporting one of the cruelest industries in the country. The breeding animals are often kept in deplorable conditions - spending their entire lives in small wire-bottomed cages. They probably haven't been vaccinated against contagious diseases or tested for any health or temperament problems or genetic diseases - that costs money and cuts into their profits. A female is often bred every time she comes into heat. When her poor little body can't take it any more, she is often clubbed in the head and tossed into a dumpster or an open ditch. Most puppy mills ship their pups to pet stores at wholesale prices and many pups die before they even get there.

BEFORE you get any dog you should read some great books on training. (Try not to pick books randomly - there are a lot of bad books out there also!) These are some of my favorites and you can get them on Amazon.com
What All Good Dogs Should Know - Volhard
Good Owners, Great Dogs - Brian Kilcommins
Dog Tricks : Eighty-Eight Challenging Activities for Your Dog from World-Class Trainers by Haggerty and Benjamin
Don't Shoot the Dog - Pryor
Training Your Dog: The Step by Step Method - Volhard
Dog Problems - Benjamin
Cesar's Way - Cesar Millan
Also, watch the Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic Channel. Cesar Millan is the best trainer I've ever seen on TV.

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What breeds of dogs are hard to housebreak?

dog crates west yorkshire image

Czareena

Some breeds are easy to potty train because they donât like for their living quarters to be messy or smelly or they really like to please their owners. However, there are also other breeds that are more difficult to housebreak. Can you give me a list of these breeds?

Answer
Alaskan Malamute

Belgian Griffon

Bichon Frise

Chihuahua

Boston Terrier

Cocker Spaniel

Lakeland Terrier


PitBull Terrier

Rat Terrier

Schipperke

Siberian Husky

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Welsh Terrier

American Foxhound

Basset Hound

Beagle


Bloodhound

Dachshund

Cairn Terrier

Irish Terrier

Jack Russell Terrier

Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier


Norfolk Terrier

Norwich Terrier

West Highland White Terrier




Afghan Hound

Basenji

Borzoi

Irish Wolfhound


Norwegian Elkhound

Saluki

Whippet

Chinese Shar-Pei

Great Dane

Irish Wolfhound


Mastiffs

Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier

Affenpinscher

Havanese

Italian Greyhound

Maltese

Papillon


Pekingese

Pomeranian

Pug

Shih Tzu

Yorkshire Terrier



I did some research and this what I got. I would recommend crate training it is great for smaller breeds

Would a Pomeranian be a good fit?

stacks

I just moved into a small apartment and I want a dog, I was wondering if a Pom would be a good fit. I want a dog that sheds very little and that is really small. I want it to be an inside dog.

Answer
Lol Pomeranians are great apartment dogs, but there pretty heavy shedders!

My major concerns would be:
Unstable temperaments. Pomeranians are a dime a dozen, and most of them are bred and offered for sale by people who don't have the slightest idea of how to breed good-tempered dogs. Obedience instructors and behavioral consultants see LOTS of Pomeranians with neurotic behaviors, including biting, sharpness, extreme fearfulness, moodiness, and general nastiness.

Fragility. Too many people acquire a toy breed puppy without understanding how incredibly fragile a toy breed is. You can seriously injure or kill a Pomeranian puppy by stepping on him or by sitting on him when he's curled under a blanket or pillow, where he frequently likes to sleep. And Pomeranians can seriously injure or kill THEMSELVES by leaping from your arms or off the back of your sofa. A larger dog can grab a Pomeranian and break his neck with one quick shake. Owning a toy breed means constant supervision and surveillance of what's going on around your tiny dog. Pomeranians must always be kept indoors, in a safely fenced yard, or on-leash -- they are just too easy to injure when not under your complete control.

If you have small children, I do not recommend a Pomeranian. There are just too many Poms who won't tolerate any nonsense. And there are too many Poms who feel overwhelmed by the loud voices and quick movements that children can't help making -- and stress and shyness (even defensive biting) may be the result.

Suspiciousness. Standoffish by nature, Pomeranians need extensive exposure to people and to unusual sights and sounds. Otherwise their natural caution can become suspiciousness, which are difficult to live with and could even lead to defensive biting.

Mind of their own. Pomeranians are not a submissive or sissyish breed. They are very bright, but they have an independent mind of their own and can be manipulative. You must show them, through absolute consistency, that you mean what you say.

Barking. Pomeranians are often too quick to sound the alarm at every new sight and sound. You have to be equally quick to stop them. If you work all day and have close neighbors, Pomeranians are not a good choice for you. For the same reason, Pomeranians should NEVER be left outside in your yard, unsupervised. To make matters worse, some Poms have high-pitched barks that can set your teeth on edge.

Grooming. To keep their thick coat free of mats, Pomeranians require regular brushing and combing, and occasional trimming of straggly hairs.

Heavy shedding. Pomeranians are one of the heaviest shedding of the toy breeds. You'll find hair and fur all over your clothing, upholstery, carpeting, under your furniture, on your countertops -- even in your food. Frequent vacuuming will become a way of life. Make sure you're REALLY up for this.

Housebreaking. Toy breeds are almost always difficult to housebreak. It is so easy for them to sneak behind a chair or under a small table, and it takes only a few seconds for the deed to be done. The results can be hard to see. When you don't see it, you don't correct it -- and so the bad habit becomes established. If you hope to housebreak a toy breed, consistent crate training is mandatory. Pomeranians should not be loosed in the house for many months, until their small internal organs become strong enough for reliable control.

Low shedding breeds
Affenpinscher
Brussell Griffon
Chinese Crested,
Italian Greyhound
Maltese
Toy Poodle
Shih Tzu
Silky Terrier
Bichon Frise,
Yorkshire Terrier
Havanese
Australian Terrier
Bedlington Terrier
Border Terrier
Cairn Terrier
Dandie Dinmont Terrier
Glen of Imaal Terrier
Irish Terrier
Kerry Blue Terrier
Lakeland Terrier
Miniature Schnauzer
Norfolk Terrier
Norwich Terrier
Scottish Terrier
Sealyham Terrier
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Welsh Terrier
West Highland
White Terrier Wire Fox Terrier

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what is your opionion on shipping a dog somewhere?

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(:

i want to know because i want to buy a dog but it would have to be shipped to where I live.

Answer
Chances are that a little serious investigation on your part will bring you to a responsible breeder that is close to home. While there are many responsible show breeders who ship dogs and even import or export to Japan and Europe, it is also true that many sleezy dealers in dogs ship dogs to unsuspecting and buyers who do not know how to check the sellers out, or even how to determine whether a dog is a good dog or not.

First, make sure that you can verify the person shipping is not scamming you and is actually a show person who breeds dogs. If they are, you should be able to see a website that includes show photos as well as pedigrees, and should be able to verify that they are who they say they are. Do not jump on a sale. A responsible breeder will not simply ship you a dog. Plan on correspondence that will likely last several months before any shipment takes place--if at all. The breeder needs to know that he or she is dealing with a responsible buyer who will provide a loving and safe home for a dog--in short--that you are a responsible buyer. Likewise, as a buyer, you must gradually get to know something about the breeder's history and experience in the breed, in the parents of the litter that currently has puppies, as well as the health and condition of puppies. Ask, especially why the breeder is selling any puppies as pets rather than keeping them. Breeders always keep the most promising pups for their next generation in the ring, but should be willing to discuss the flaws of the puppies being made available as pets. Despite these flaws, you should expect generally healthy puppies. Expect a responsible breeder to either spay or neuter puppies before they are shipped, or retain papers until you spay or neuter them. Many breeders today are having the surgery done prior to shipping. Serious breeders really interesting in improving the breed do not sell puppies under 5-6 months of age, so these puppies can very safely be spayed or neutered prior to shipping.

Airlines will require a health certificate signed by a licensed veterinarian no more than 10 days prior to shipping. That certificate confirms that the dog is innoculated against rabies, is free of parasites, has a healthy heart for flying. Airlines also require that food and water be provided by the sender as well as an airline approved crate for shipping. The cost for shipping as well as the cost of the shipping crate is typically paid for by the buyer separate from the cost of the dog.

Dogs are shipped via airline cargo. The only US airline that has air conditioned cargo as well as air conditioned vehicles to remove cargo from the plane to the terminal is Continental. All other airlines refuse to ship dogs when the outside temperature at any part of the route exceed 80 degrees in the summer months. No airline will accept Pugs, Boston terriers, or bull dogs for cargo because of possible issues due to the punched in noses.

Dogs are shipped on the basis of the weight. Weigh the dog in an airline approved crate. A 6 pound dog in its crate just ran me $219 to ship from Chicago to Raleigh via Continental's Quick Pack plan for shipping animals. Here is their link for further information.

Do you need to have a health certificate for a dog?

Nevakiss

In August we are moving to Korea to be with my Husband on a command sponsored tour, Do we need to obtain a health certificate for our dog? And do we have to pay for the dogs travel?
Thanks Dina, that site was very helpful! :D But on the travel expense of our pet, doesnt the military provide the travel expenses just not the care expense?

Answer
Yes, you will need to obtain a USDA/APHIS United States Interstate an International Certificate of Health Examination for Small Animals (APHIS Form 7001). The form isn't available online for download as it is in sextuplicate and the forms are numbered. It is only good for 10 days from the date stamped. You will also need a current rabies certificate. The rabies shot must be given more than 30 days before entering the country, but less than a year; South Korea does not recognize 3 year rabies certificates.

Not all vets (in the US) are USDA accredited to use the USDA form (APHIS Form 7001). You will need to call your vet to specifically ask about authorization. They will have a letter of authorization from the Area Veterinarian in Charge for that specific State. Your other option is to call the office of the Veterinary Services Area Veterinarian in Charge or the office of the State Veterinarian in your State to verify if a specific veterinarian is accredited or to obtain a list of accredited veterinarians in your area. The list is available at http://www.aphis.usda.gov/import_export/downloads/vsavic.pdf

The offices listed in the .pdf are where you then need to take or mail the form to get the actual seal affixed. If you are military, base vets are all accredited and most states allow them to possess/use the seal (which will save you a trip to the USDA office).

Current endorsement fees are $35.00 for the first animal and $6.25 for each additional animal listed on the form. Fees are scheduled to increase October 1, 2010. Fee info is near the bottom of the page. http://www.aphis.usda.gov/mrpbs/fmd/vs_import_export_fees.shtml#13020

They do also list the cost of endorsement fees if you need them signed outside of normal business hours (after hours/weekends/holidays). It also has the fee schedule for those going to England/EU/Japan or any country that requires a FAVN.

As for travel costs, no, the military will not pay for their travel and you should be aware that it is generally 2-3X more expensive to ship animals back to the US. You can, however, deduct them on your income taxes as part of moving expenses.

Most of the airlines have heat embargoes in effect for checked baggage and cargo pets from June through September as the temps will be above 85 degrees. Additionally, most of the Asian airlines (including KAL) will not accept the pet as checked baggage if the total weight of the dog (in the crate) is 70 pounds or more; it will have to go as cargo (which means additional fees will be collected at the quarantine office at ICN as well as being more expensive than checked baggage fees).

As long as your dog's rabies vax is within the stated time frame, the animal will not be quarantined. The same basically applies to animals going back to the US from Korea, except that instead of the APHIS form, you will get the Korean version.

If you are flying over with the MM, you will need to make arrangements at one of the base kennels as base lodging (like the Dragon Hill Lodge at Yongsan) do not allow pets. You should also be aware that some base housing is no-pets which means you will have to request a waiver to live off post.

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Please help me? My dog has seperation anxiety?

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Raawrr

My dog has seperation anxiety and I don't know what to do. I made the mistake of being home all the time when he was a puppy and now whenever he's not near me, he'll whine and bark and screech. I locked him up in my room while Everyone went out and when we got home, he'd ripped up the carpet under the door. He's not a big dog. He's a chihuahua Maltese cross. We're trying crating at the moment but the neighbours are complaining because he won't be quiet.

I put some stones in a can and shook them whenever he barked and that's seemed to work. But any other ideas? Please help! Thank you.

Answer
Yeah, not doing home alone training while you had the possibility for it is a mistake, as is leaving a dog alone cold turkey without having done any home alone training first. Some dogs handle it just fine, but many don't. I do wish that there would be as much emphasis on home alone training as there is on housebreaking because it would prevent a lot of separation anxiety in dogs.

Look up home alone training, pick the method where you first leave the dog for 1 second a gazillion times a day, then 5 seconds then 30 seconds etc. never progressing faster than he can take, if he starts getting upset then you've been to fast and need to take a step back. Once you are doing 20 minutes, then you can increase the time intervals, 1 hour, 1 1/2 hours, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours etc. If you have to leave him during the training period, then try to get a dog sitter. If he is extremely anxious, then look into getting a DAP diffuser to plus in a switch near him. It's not a replacement for training, but it can help ease the training.

Other tricks that can be added to the home alone training: Leave the radio on at low volume. Don't make a fuss about leaving or coming home. Once you start doing 15 minutes intervals, then exercise him before you leave, but do more mental exercise than physical exercise, this will tire him out. Leave 20 minutes for him to calm down after the exercise before you start getting ready to leave.

Usually home alone training takes 10-14 days depending on the dog, some are faster, some need a bit longer, but once the problem is already there, then it generally takes longer.

Oh...and go to your neighbours with a batch of home-made cookies and ask for their patience while you train the dog.

A crate is usually only symptom treatment and you need to address the underlying issue: that he is afraid and panics when left alone.

Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement door for a Furrari 300 dog crate? Google can't find one for me!

starkees

Answer
Here's the company's site. I didn't see a door for the 300, I only saw the 350. Maybe contact the manufacturer and see what they say.
http://www.petmate.com/Catalog.plx?Page=Replacement&CatID=8
good luck.

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How do I register to become a dog breeder, What do I need to do?

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Jess

Ok!

How do I start I have 4 healthy dogs checked out by the vet and ready to breed. But when they are here I wanted to sell them. I just don't want to be doing anything illigel. I know what somepeople are going to say first you need to study the breed and go to dog shows and I did that. And for the breeders out there can you give some advice or story about your breed.

Answer
I'd strongly recommending to presenting this question to local breeders who are involved in your breed. A good breeding program almost never involves purely breeding your own dogs to your own dogs, and if nothing else, that will only get you through one (*maybe* two) generation before you start inbreeding. Networking with local breeders is important because:

1) They can give you insight into local laws regarding kennels and breeding
2) They can help you through the ins and outs of registering your litters
3) They can help you understand health issues in your breed, and how to proactively avoid them, including recommended health tests (OFA, CEFT, etc)
3) They can provide a support system when you have problems with health of your dogs, or questions and issues that come up during pregnancy
4) They can help you learn how to make honest evaluations about your dogs' strengths and weaknesses
5) They can talk to you about what you should have in the way of contracts for your puppy buyers, and about what you should look for when selling your pups

What's really important to understand, too, is that a vet can check out whether a dog is physically capable of producing a litter without serious side effects, but they have utterly no knowledge of whether your dog is a good candidate genetically for producing good quality offspring. It's not even remotely related to their specialty.

I know you feel like you've done your research, but I think you'll discover that you've only scratched the surface. Poorly bred purebred dogs are actually a worse problem than random street-bred mixed breed dogs because you take health and temperament problems that are common to the breed and double up on them, leading to things like nervousness in poodles, spookiness in German Shepherds, aggression in Golden Retrievers, hyperness in labs, hip displasia and bloat in many of the large breeds, eplilepsy, etc. You sound like you're pretty committed to going forward, but I hope you continue to research and learn for the sake of your puppy buyers. Keep in mind that it's not just "all those puppies in shelters who won't find homes because you made more" that are the risk here. The real risk is all of the pets you're going to send off into people's homes who may develop health and temperament problems as they get older, and the heartache that it causes a family when their beloved pet becomes displastic at age two, or dies of bloat at age 5, or develops a condition like EPI or Mega-E that will require incredible amounts of care and treatment for the rest of the dog's life. You don't have to live with these problems anymore after you cash your check and those cute adorable puppies go off to their new homes, but up to 8 people per one of your breedings, maybe even dozens of people per year, are going to take home these pups and as a breeder, it's your responsibility to give them stable healthy dogs that will live long happy lives. Consider that some serious health conditions can cost thousands of dollars to treat, especially if it's a lifelong condition developed at a young age. All of those people's lives will be affected in a major way based on the consequences of your decisions... it's a huge responsibility! That's the part that tends to be overlooked when we talk about "all the dogs in shelters who need help too". (Don't get me wrong, they do, but that's not really the biggest reason to go slow with breeding, it's the second biggest)

Good luck, and I hope you're able to find a good network in your area.

How to clean up after a parvo dog has died?

Cindy F

I know parvo is not airbourne. my little dog had it and died. I can use bleach on the hardwood floors to sterile them but what can I use on the carpet to clean them. Also the bedding can be washed and the beds sprayed with lysol. Can I steam clean the carpets to disinfect them? What else do I need to clean?

Answer
Sorry for your troubles.One part bleach to 30 parts water kills the virus in your yard and washable surfaces. Animal Health is a company that sells a product called Kennel Care that has been proven to kill the virus and can safely be used on carpets and furniture. It is reasonably priced. May the end of this year grant you good fortune. Their # is 1-800-424-7536

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Is it safe to travel with my dog on a plane?

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redhead27

I have heard that there are some horror stories and the airline employees put the animal at the wrong end of the plane where the air is not pressurized.

Does anyone have experience with dogs on a plane as cargo? I am traveling with mine in late september and a little nervous.

Answer
A friend of mine travels with his siberian husky from New York to California at least every other month, and has never had any problems. He jokes that if his dog had a frequent flier number, he would have racked up a lot of miles by now.

His advice:

Make sure you notify the airlines that you are flying with a pet. They need to know so that they will prepare for it. Most airlines will not allow you to fly with a dog without prior arrangement.

When you check in, make sure to mention again that you are flying with a pet.

When you are boarding the plane, mention one more time that you are flying with your pet. This will ensure that at least 3 people at 3 different times heard you.

For your dog:

freeze some water and then attach it in the crate. As the flight goes on, he will have a constant supply of water nearby that won't spill. He puts calming formula in the water, which helps to calm his dog. http://www.petherbsdirect.com/calming-formula-for-dogs-2-p-54.html?osCsid=8648cfc02019953d7a506574e3640108

Feed him a small meal a couple of hours before flying and then walk him. Make sure he has a bowel movement. Allow him to stretch his legs and try to tire him out. He will rest for most of the flight.

Place a toy or favorite blanket in the crate.

Make sure that your dog has tags with a number where you can be reached. Make sure that the crate has the same info.


Best of luck on your trip.

How do you "ship" a live cat & how much will it cost?

mom2pipnpo

I have a cat that is having litterbox issues and has been using my family room as a litterbox. It's been going on for a while now, and I've realized she's going to continue to do it until the smell is completely eliminated, which is hard since the room is completely carpeted and there is no way to keep her out of there. She used to be my mom's cat, and my mom lives in New York. My mom agreed to take her back until we move there next spring (that's another thing too- we are going to be trying to sell our house so I don't need her there continually stinking it up). We live in St. Louis. What is the best way to get the cat to her (I really can't afford to hop on an airplane just to take the cat there). Can you ship a cat? How much does it cost? Thanks!

Answer
I had to ship a dog about 800 miles once and I imagine the procedure would be similar for a cat. I bought an airline-approved shipping crate for the dog, took the dog to a veterinarian for a health check and to get it sedated, took the crate to an airline freight terminal at an airport, and paid about $50 for shipping. The recipient and I had contacted the airline in advance to find a flight for which it would be convenient for me to drop the dog off and for the recipient to pick the dog up, so the dog was only out of our hands for about 5 hours total. Everything worked well. The dog acted drunk for a couple of days after the trip, presumably on account of the sedation.

With the cost of the shipping crate, the vet bill, and shipping, it wound up costing about $150 total.

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Could anyone help me with plans for building a dog house?

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lil joker

I have a rottweiler puppy, and i was looking forward to building a dog house. I would like some help with any detailed plans to accommodate a rottweiler at it's adult size. Does not have to be anything to special just something to get the dog by the weather of South Texas.

Answer
This kennel will accommodate a large dog but is still suitable for smaller dogs.
The kennel is constructed out of 1x6 stock (treated lumber) for the floor and roof, 2x2 stock for the framing, 2x2 stock (treated lumber) for the under floor skids and one sheet of 48" x 96" x 3/8" thick exterior type plywood from which the walls are cut.

Note 1. About pressure treated lumber
Do not use treated lumber on any parts the dog may chew. Pressure treated lumber (PT) contains preservatives that can be toxic to your dog.
In this project we have opted to use pressure treated lumber for the roof, floor and skids, as it is unlikely the dog will chew these parts. The walls and inside framing are of untreated lumber, as these are the parts a dog is most likely to gnaw.
If you have any reservations and/or a dog that chews everything in sight, then use untreated lumber for the entire kennel. However if you opt to do this, remember that all untreated lumber exposed to the weather (excepting lumber that has a natural resistance to rot or decay) must be well sealed and painted to prevent moisture uptake and prolong the life of the lumber.

Note 2. The plywood
Exterior plywood has a waterproof, phenolic or melamine glue line, referred to as WBP - water boil proof.
If the exterior plywood is neither pressure treated nor made from a durable rot-resistant wood, then the plywood will also need to be sealed and painted to prevent moisture uptake and prolong its life.

Note 3. Painting
Untreated lumber should be painted using Wood Primer, Enamel Undercoat and Super Gloss Enamel. When dried the paint would be non-toxic to dogs chewing, but any damage taking the paint system back to bare wood would eventually allow water and increase the danger that the lumber may eventually begin to rot.

Construction details


Cutting list......
ITEM No.MATERIAL / SIZEAMOUNT AND LENGTHDESCRIPTION
(1) 2x2 treated stock3 @ 48"Under floor skids
(2)1x6 treated stock8 @ 31-1/4"floor
(3)2x2 stock4 @ 31-1/4"Top and bottom plates for front and rear wall frames.
(4)2x2 stock8 @ 14"front and rear wall frame studs
(5)2x2 stock2 @ 44"Side wall top plates
(6)&(8)1 sheet 48" x 96" x 3/8" thick exterior type plywood.cutting dimensions as per pattern belowwall cladding
(7)2x2 stock6 @ 22" (long point) with 45deg angle cut each endRafters. see cutting dimensions in diagram below
(9)1x6 treated stock10 @ 60"Roofing boards
Step one
Pre-cut all the skids, flooring, plates, studs and rafters to the lengths as stated above and cut the plywood wall panels from the plywood sheet to the pattern as shown on the diagram below.


Step two
Fix the 8 floorboards (#2) to the three under floor skids (#1) with 3" galvanized nails. Ensure the finished floor dimensions are 31-1/4" x 48". The three under floor skids should be evenly spaced with two each side and one in the middle.

Step three
Nail the front and rear frames comprising of top and bottom plates (#3) and studs (#4) together. Overall frame dimensions of both front and rear frame should be 18" high and 31-1/4" wide. Ensure the placement of the intermediate studs allow enough of a gap (12") for the doorway. See diagrams for reference. Stand and fix the front and rear frames in place at each end of the floor.

Step four
Fix the 2 sidewall top plates (#5) in place. See diagrams for reference.

Step five
Fix the wall panels (#6,#8) to the frames using 2" galvanized flathead nails.


Step six
Fix the rafters (#7) in place.

Step seven Fix the 10 roofing boards (#9) (5 each side) to the rafters beginning with the lowest board. The roof boards are 60" long and the kennel is 48" long, therefore the roof boards should overhang each end of the kennel by 6". The first roofing board should overhang the sidewalls by 1" to 2". Fix the rest of the roofing boards in place checking that all overlaps are even.

What countries in the world require a passport for a dog?

labrador_l

I plan to go on vacation to another country and I would like to bring along my dog. What countries, do you know require that a dog should have a passport?

Answer
Very few.
You obviously don't understand the difference between the "Pet Passport" used to allow qualifying dogs to travel around the European Economic Community and the British Isles, and the passport-with-visas that a citizen carries when travelling abroad.

EVERY nation places health requirements on livestock and plant materials that people wish to bring in to the nation, in order to keep out viruses and insect pests and bacteria and ticks, etc, that the nation is so far free of. In the case of dogs, the usual requirement is an inspection and blood titration by a vet licensed by the nation's Ministry of Agriculture BEFORE the pooch gets on the ship or plane (my X litter got born in Britain because the pregnant German brood failed one of the titrate tests so was refused access to the plane she was booked onto), and a thorough inspection on arrival. Clean countries such as Australia and NZ then require that the pooch spends a session in quarantine, unless the pooch arrives after a residency period in the other, or Britain, or Hawaii, or Scandinavia. (Points out how few truly clean countries there are, biologically, eh!)

So you need to write down the order of the countries you intend to travel through (which might be none, if you fly non-stop from home to the destination country), then contact either the embassy/consulate of each country you propose to go through, or your own Agriculture Dept, and find out the regulations for entry into each country from each preceding country.

A blind person can have the quarantine set aside for their guide dog, but no-one can have it set aside for a pet dog.

Unless you live in that "Pet Passport" area, I reckon that you'll need to find a top-quality boarding kennel for your pet while you are away travelling.

â Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as rescue groups, feeding, vaccinations, worming, clubs, teething, neutering, size, diseases, genetics.

â To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with them. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos in your messages.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967

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how cheap can i get a dog crate and dog bed?

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MAYDAY!par

my dog is a fox terrier, a small to medium sized dog, (about 15 pounds?) and he needs a new dog crate and bed because he out grew his old ones. how much could these cost me at my local pet store?

Answer
Have you tried Craigslist.com or Ebay.com? second hand shops might have them..but a small crate can be about $15-20 at walmart about the same for a dog bed too.

Where is the best place to buy a cheap Large Crate for a dog?

JustWonder

Im looking at dogs and I was just wondering where to buy a cheap dog crate.

Answer
Large crates become available on craigslist often. You could post that you are looking for one. You'll probably get a few responses. Just be careful. Don't go to a stranger's home alone, make sure if the person brings it to your home you aren't alone. There are some dangerous characters on CL - as there are everywhere.

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Does anyone have a kennel or like a playpen for sale for a puppy?

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Goldie

I have a very limited budget and I need something to be able to confine my dog in. For potty training. In Fullerton, Placentia or Brea.

Answer
You're crate training your dog - good for you, this is the best way. You need a crate big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around - sleeping space and maybe an area for his food - but no bigger or they'll just do their business at the other end of the crate. They're not that expensive. One route you could take - if you have the luxury of some wait time - is Freecycle.com. I use it to 'give' away my stuff I want to see go to a good home - and yes, it is free ... you just have to pick it up. Good luck to you and your puppy!

How to confine my dog while I'm gone?

KS

My dog is still in puppy phase and is chewing my house to pieces! Kennels for his size are out of my price range at the moment. Does anyone have suggestions for keeping a dog confined to one room such as the kitchen while I'm at work?

Answer
VariKennel Crates are on sale at PetCo right now, and I think it's free shipping.

Until you get a crate, I would be careful of the kitchen...yummy smells can get dogs in trouble - opening (or chewing) cabinets. Do you have a foyer or small room where you can gate him in? Even a hallway might work.

I also suggest leaving a Kongsicle (Kong toy with velveeta in the small end to block it, then filled with Kibble/Water/Yogurt and frozen.) Dogs NEED to chew, may as well point them in the right direction. A frozen Kong will usually take at least an hour for the dog to get everything out.

Hope that helps!

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Where can i leave my 2 month old Husky while at work?

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Juan Marti

Hello I work 8 hrs a day so I'm gone from like 5am -4pm mon-fri. where is a safe place i can leave her besides expensive doggy day care I already leave her in a crate all night to sleep in but then in the day where could i leave her i dont have a yard to leave her in either. I think it would be way to long for her to be in the crate all day and night right. Any tips?

Answer
You should have figured this out before getting a puppy. You could have adopted a Husky from their National Rescue that would already have been trained. You cannot leave a breed like a Husky confined for almost 24 hours. The dog will go nuts, and it's one inch short of animal abuse.
Huskys need to run, they need serious exercise....this is madness.

What can I do to stop my Husky from crying?

Kensington

He's 7 months old. Used to have a huge yard and was very independent. Now, we live in an apartment, where he's with us 24/7; which is why he is crying and scraping at the floors when we leave. We exercise him tremendously; dog park for hours, walks, etc. However, for three hours one day a week, when we go to class, he's terrible! We've left him bones, toys, etc. Help!

Answer
Your dog is exhibiting classic signs of separation anxiety.

Everything he knew has changed and he's just not settled into his new surroundings yet. He feels the most secure when he's with you.

If you have a doggy daycare near you that would be a great solution! 3 hrs a day one day a week would probably be VERY affordable.

Crate breaking your dog is the quickest solution to get him to stop being destructive while you're gone. Sleep in a t-shirt for a few nights and tuck that into his crate. Your scent will help him out a little. Don't just lock him in the crate and leave. Start to feed him in the crate, and lock him in there for brief periods while your home to get him accustomed to it.

When you leave turn a radio on low...or leave the TV running for him. That all helps...

Crate Breaking Tips
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

It's not the perfect solution, but it will help. Separation Anxiety has lots of levels and angles to it. But.. if I were in your shoes... that's what I'd do.
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How can I get my dog to stop crawling into my bed at night?!?

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Rosie

I'm rosie and I like sleep.
I have a dog that never likes to leave me alone, she comes in my bed when i'm asleep cause she knows she's too stinky to sleep up here.
At night, she crawls into my bed and sleeps there until she then takes a shit (crap) and leaves it not only IN the bed but near/around my body.

I've created a blockade from the corner ends of my bed.
At the far left of the foot of the bed, is a table too high for Daisy (the dog) to reach up to so I then continued the blockade by taking my dirty clothing hamper, my bass guitar case, my acoustic guitar case and my electric soft cover zipper case leaning on the foot end of the bed that she crawls in by so she cant come in... She got in last night anyways!!
She came in to sleep on my feet and I picked her up (she's a small breed) and showed her to the poop, told her "NO" and sent her to the closet (its soft and carpeted; my room is tile).

So, as you can see, im still having trouble of how to keep my dog from crawling into my bed at night.
As for the poop, which I hate more if not equally, I can just feed her early in the day and make sure the goes during our walk but sometimes I almost feel like she saves her poop for me to be angry at... She started doing this when I got a boyfriend and started going over to his town for the weeks/weekends. I feel that it's for attention.

Please help me. Thanks :D <3 <3

Answer
I would crate her every night, and any time she comes near the bed, I would firmly tell her NO. The crate should be large enough for her to stand and turn around in, and have just enough room for her to have a beed.

This should soon break her of the habit of getting on your bed.

What can I put in my pet's crate that are safe?

Diana

I have 2-3 month old Beagle puppies I would love to cuddle with 24/7, however I have a pretty busy life and need to leave them alone in their crate for a few hours every other day. What essentials should I leave them with while I am away without having to worry about their safety??

Answer
Great info on crate training:


Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.


A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.


Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.


We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.


Preparing the Crate

Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.


Wire Mesh type:Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.


Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.


Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.


Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.


Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.


Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:




Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.


In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)


You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.


It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.








A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.


Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]


Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:



The pup is too young to have much control.


The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.


The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.


The pup has worms.


The pup has gaseous or loose stools.


The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.


The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.


The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)


The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.



Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.

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What would i have to do to raise a siberian husky?

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Tkdman

I am thinking about getting a siberian husky ive never owned a dog before. I want to now what ill need todo regarding vaccinations and other medical stuff. how much will that cost. and i want to know how much will i be spending on food and other things each month for the husky.

Answer
Buying my Siberian cost me about $750, but that is because he had papers so it cost more.
When I first got him, his puppy exam at the vet was $46.00.
His Tracheobronchitis shot was $18.00
His DA2PP puppy initial was also $18.00
His first lyme disease was $27.00.

It turned out he had worms so the fecal lab analysis was $44.00 and the meds for getting rid of his worms were $18.00.

His puppy heart-worm pill was $5.50 and his <22 lb frontline plus was $16.00

I went to a different vet after that and his vaccinations became the DHLPP vaccination boosters but I have lost the paperwork with how much those cost, they were not very much though if I remember correctly.

His registration papers cost about $25 for simple registration (there are many options)

He is 9 months old now and I pay about $7 a month for his <50 lbs interceptor heart-worm (he is about 48 to 50 lbs now).
I pay $20 every 3 months for hartz tick and flea drops (frontline works better but hartz is a lot cheaper).

He was neutered when he first turned 8 months, the bill breakdown was like this: Pain pills $8.00, Catheterization $48.00, IV fluids $16, Analgesic injection $13, Anesthesia for first hour $69, Patient monitoring: $16, actual neuter surgery $105, elizabethan collar (to not lick wound) $12.
I also got optional blood-work on him before surgery that was $46 and microchip placement that was $53. My total bill was about 385 dollars.

I feed him Nutro natural choice large breed puppy food. One 35 pound bag costs $50 at petco and lasts me about 2 months or so. If buying from petco, they track how many bags you buy, and your 10th is free, if you buy from a local store, you can sign up online and Nutro will mail you a slip that you give to your local pet store so they can track your dog food and when you get 10 bags they can mail it in for reimbursement for the 10th bag, so either way you can get the 10th for free.

He tears through toys like no other, but two toys have lasted, one is an orca bone offered by petstages, available at petco, target, etc. The other is a tuff tuff bone, the only fabric toy that he has not torn up, I got mine from petco, the walmart and target similar ones get destroyed within the day.

My husky is crate trained. When I got him, I used a $60 large crate that I bought from walmart. Save yourself the trouble and buy a more expensive expanding crate that can go up to extra large. Even though he is only 50 lbs, he can not even sit up straight in the large crate, I had to get an extra large one for him, luckily my friend had one they didn't need so I didn't have to pay any more money.

Depending on your dogs temperament, you may have to think about puppy classes. I've heard the ones at petco and petsmart are around $100 for the basic class. My Siberian was my first dog I've had to take care of all on my own, although I grew up with dogs, it is different when all the work is on you. My Siberian is stubborn and very smart, he learns different and new ways to be annoying all the time. I have not had the need for professional training though by being clear about what I expect from him and consistent with praise and punishment. I socialize him at the dog park every two weeks or so which is free for the park I go to, but some parks do charge 5-10 dollars a day, usually indoor or well monitored parks.

You need to make sure you can exercise your husky properly. I take my dog on 3-4 1 to 1.5 hour walks a week and on the weekends depending on weather i'll take him on a 6-9 mile hike on Saturday and a 4-6 mile hike on Sunday, plus lots more fetch in the yard. He still has too much energy after all this.

You also need to be able to contain him without running away. I have a 100 foot run for my Siberian that i use when i'm out in the yard with him. I make sure his collar it tight so he can't slip away and I've had good luck with it. It is best to have a large fenced in yard for your Sibe, and many claim electric fences didn't stop their Siberians.

At what age does a puppy get its shots?

Kezia

I have an 8 week German Shepherd puppy, I really want her to socialize with other dogs, but she needs her shots first, when should I give her the shots???

And if a dog has its shots, is it ok to let my puppy play with it???
My friend has a chihuahua and I want my dog to play with him, he has all of his shots, is it safe for her to play with him????

Answer
Great age to get a pup!
Bad idea about playing with other dogs.....

Vaccinations should be no further apart than 4 weeks, no closer together than 3 weeks.
⢠Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as feeding, vaccinations, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.
It takes 2 weeks before you can hope that the first shots take effect (if the passive immunity from the dam was still high, that will destroy the attenuated virus before it can train the immune system). Many vets (and their insurance cos!) are old fashioned and would rather over-vaccinate than risk being sued for under-vaccinating. If you are in an area where the govt requires rabies vaccinations, delay as long as is legal, then get the certificate for 3 years - and donate to the Rabies Research group listed in the Vaccinations section of the group above!
Another dog's shots make IT unlikely to suffer a virus attack, but don't stop its feet & coat from carrying the virus to YOUR pup & infecting her.

Check whether you are in a heartworm area - if you are, you need to put your pup on the preventative, as killing adult heartworms usually results in their corpses blocking the dog's heart valve.

If it is more than 12-13 days since Pup was dosed for roundworm, get the cheapest chemical for roundworm and dose Pup every 12-13 days until, twice in a row, there has been no sign of "broken rubber bands" in her faeces during the 48 hours after the dosing.

Your first 2 tasks are to learn Pup's timing & signals, and convince her that the world is a fun, safe place and that YOU (not other dogs, not strangers) are the centre of everything good in the universe,.
At 8 weeks, it is common for pups to, 1 minute after waking and 3 minutes after eating/drinking, start making anxious nose-down circles. You immediately CARRY Pup to the designated toilet area and wait boringly still & silent (don't let those teeth chatter!) until Pup remembers that she wanted to go toilet. As soon as she finishes, praise (include her name & the future command word) & reward (pats, rubs, or a game) before going inside.
Also learn her signal for "Wanna BITE something!"

I HOPE you have a plan for her sleeping that does NOT involve a locked crate. Pups need to exercise their fast-growing bones & muscles the whole time they're awake. Well-bred well-reared pups arrive with an instinct to get away from their nest before piddle-pooing. Catch 22: A crate small enough to invoke that instinct is too small to exercise in. An enclosure big enough to exercise in is big enough to go toilet in.

Learn that "socialisation" has NOTHING to do with playing with other dogs or people.
A more accurate term would be "familiarisation".
You have until Pup turns 13 weeks (the end of the "confident & curious" period, start of the "need security" period that should end when pup turns 17 weeks) in which to familiarise her with every movement, reflection, scent, sight, sound & texture in your environment, always introducing them from a distance that PUP considers safe. When Pup notices a "new & possibly scary thing" you just stand still and silent (NO "soothing" her) UNTIL Pup decides to either ignore it or - better - investigate it. Either way, you then praise Pup as she starts moving again, and reward her with a rub or pat if she is close
Until 2 weeks after the first shots you keep pup on YOUR property.

You then take her to areas where dogs do NOT run loose, do NOT piddle-poo-vomit, and mostly let her explore in all directions at once on the end of a long lead, calmly hauling her away from disgusting things or scared humans.
Learning to walk at Heel can wait until you are in a training club class (forget pet shop play groups) - book NOW for one that will start when Pup is 18-22 weeks old. There YOU are coached to improve your use of "the voices", posture aka body language, balance, timing, rewards vs reprimands. At the same time Pup learns to pay attention regardless of what other dogs & people are doing.

⢠To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967

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