How can I fold up a large one door dog crate?

dog crates car image

Pregnant~M

I have someone picking up a dog crate I bought from my friend a while back, problem is I don't know how to fold it up so they can get it in their car... PLEASE HELP!

Answer
You can only fold it up if it is a foldable crate.Otherwise remove the fasteners that hold the two halves together and move it that way

Does anyone know where I can get a dog crate that will fit my car?

Popcornz_Y

I have a 2007 fiesta, but I can't seem to find a dog crate that will fit in the boot without lowering the rear seats. The dog crate needs to at least fit my cocker spaniel and be about 30" length or more. The only ones I can find are just a tiny bit too deep for the length. Does anyone know where I can get one that will fit or get one custom made?

Answer
The crate that I have for my dog can be taken apart and put back together quite easily, and it's just a basic crate.
But if your'e looking for a crate for the dog to be in while driving...I'd try one made out of material, so its more flexible.

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What size dog crate for a 40-50 labradoodle?

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mkeedawn

I'm looking for a soft travel crate that is easier to collapse and carry than the large metal one we use at home. So many of the crates I have seen online just list dimensions and don't recommend a size for a specific weight of dog.

Answer
(It really does not matter what type of dog you have and I am not going to bad mouth you or your dog. I have seen Labradoodles and I even know a breeder. They are cute dogs) is your dog 40-50 lbs?? if it is are you going to pick up the crate and carry it??if not and you are going to just have it on the seat of your car you need to measure your dogs length and add some (enough for your dog to turn around comfortably) that's about it. you can also go to most pet stores with your dog and try them out. your dog just needs enough room to turn around. smile good luck

How big can my carry bag be?

Liveylou?

I know we're going somewhere for spring break, and we're probably going to travel by plane. We're most likely going to go see my relatives. We always bring my dog, she is a 5 pound Maltese, and her crate fits perfectly underneath the seat in the airplane. But now, we have a Lab, and I really want my family/relatives to meet him. He is really calm and smart, so I'm not afraid of him making a ruckus in the plane. The only thing I'm afraid of is that his crate won't fit underneath the seat in the plane. He is 14 weeks old now, so by then he'll be 5-6 months old and probably be about 50 Ibs (I expect him to grow to 65-80 Ibs full grown), so his crate/kennel/carrier has to be large enough for his body. But, I don't want to put him underneath plane because it's super loud down there, and it might scare him, plus I think that costs a fortune. I'd only do that if I had anxiety medicine for him from the vet, but still. My dad kept being a jerk about getting him and how it's going to cost a ton of money when we want to travel, and kennels and babysitters cost a lot , and how most hotels aren't pet friendly or make you pay a lot extra for pets. I don't want to prove him right, so please help. What is an estimate of the dimensions underneath the seat of the plane?

Answer
Southwest Airlines

Southwest Airlines is the only airline that officially publishes its underseat dimensions, specifically to help pet owners figure out if their carriers will fit easily inside the cabin. On a Southwest Boeing 737, the following dimensions are provided: window and aisle seats are 19 inches long by 14 inches wide by 8.25 inches high.Middle seats are the same dimensions, but are 19 inches wide.


Standard Carry-On Regulations

Although other airlines don't publish their underseat dimensions, they do have fairly similar standards for carry-on baggage size. Air France, Delta Airlines, Northwest Airlines, United Airlines, US Airways and Virgin Atlantic all specify that a carry-on bag must not exceed 22 inches by 14 inches by 9 inches (or 45 inches total).





Other Carry-On Regulations

Other airlines follow approximately the same carry-on size regulations, give or take a few inches. AirTran specifies a 55-inch carry-on; Alaska Airlines regulates 24 inches by 17 inches by 10 inches; American Airlines specifies 45 inches; America West and Continental are 51 inches; British Airways regulates 22 inches by 16 inches by 8 inches; and Spirit is 22 inches by 14 inches by 10 inches.



Read more: Dimensions of the Space Under Airline Seats | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_7561159_dimensions-space-under-airline-seats.html#ixzz2GgY0ZS6s

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My 6 month old puppy is sick, what do i do?

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Q. About 2 days ago it started with her peeing and then having diarreha in her crate, then yesterday morning i feed her and she ate very well and then at lunch she had thrown up and after i got home from work she had thrown up again. Then i could tell she didnt feel good and i knew it was serious. so i gave her 9cc of pepto (recomended 1cc for every 5 lbs) (she weighs 50 lbs.) at 6 pm and she was just lying around but not getting sick just feeling bad. and at 1 am she started throwing up, like every hour and then she pooped and it was direahha and it didnt smell like your normal dog poo. it was bad! she continued to throw up every hour or so to where she had nothing else to throw up. this morning she drank alot of water and she couldnt hold that down but she keeps going back to the water so i know thats a good sign. what do i do, does anybody have any home remedies to try. the vet is just so expensive but i will probably end up taking her though.

Answer
You should take the pup to the vet's. Our lab puppy had the same symptoms and the vet had to put her down because we waited to long...we only waited 3 days then gave up on home remedies and took her in. Puppies are very prone to serious illnesses and no illness should be taken lightly, it's just the same with children, you wouldn't wait 3 days before you took your child in. I know this doesn't help much, but if you love the pup, it's better to be safe than sorry. Take care, and good luck.
Jer

How much is a dog crate?

Silver

I want to get a crate for my dog to be in in the house when we're sleeping and stuff. I don't know what is the best kind to get. My dog is 45 lbs, and he is a little taller than knee high. I want a crate that's comfortable sized for him, but I don't really make much money, so I need it to be about 50-70 dollars or less. Also, where is the best place to get a crate? I usually shop at Pet Smart, but would it be cheaper to get it somewhere else?

Answer
PetSmart and Petco have reasonably-priced crates and can help you pick a size.

As a bonus, they're having a sale this weekend. PetSmart that has a 36" crate on sale for like $36.

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753727&utm_source=NOVperks112509&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=epetperks&utm_content=prod8

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What are some suggestions as to the best way to house train puppies?

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Knife Part

I have two little puppies. They know that when I take them outside it is time to use the bathroom, but they still use the bathroom in the house on the floor at night. (They are still very young, but i want to get started on house training them now.) Any suggestions?

Answer
the best thing to do at this young age is crate training.




If you like nothing better than coming home from a hard day's work and finding that your dog decided to "go" on the couch or use your favorite slippers as a new chew toy, then crate training isn't for you. But, if you're like most people, then using a crate to properly train your dog will be time well spent. Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a proven way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without knowing any better. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rulesâlike what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car or taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed. Animal Care Professionals:
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Selecting a Crate

Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If instead your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dogâeven sleep timeâis a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
Potential Problems

Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

My dog wont stop peeing when we are out of the house ... how do I break her?

Q. I think she has a detachment disorder she cry's and whines when my husband leaves for the day and any time she is left alone in the house she pees, even if she just went out... ??????
We just adopted this dog she was a running stray in the country side for over 6 months .... was near death when we found her ... is very attached to males
Its a gurl , and she drinks the whole dang bowl of water in one setting if I let her ...
I dont just leave my dog locked up in a kennel when I am gone .. I think it is cruel .. would you want to be caged when you were a kid cus you pee'd your pants ??? dont think so ... I sorry guess I love my animals a little more than some of you

Answer
crate train her, they are never to old to learn!

If you like nothing better than coming home from a hard day's work and finding that your dog decided to "go" on the couch or use your favorite slippers as a new chew toy, then crate training isn't for you. But, if you're like most people, then using a crate to properly train your dog will be time well spent. Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a proven way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without knowing any better. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rulesâlike what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car or taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

Selecting a Crate

Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If instead your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dogâeven sleep timeâis a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
Potential Problems

Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

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Tips for moving from California to Houston with two dachshunds?

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claudia

I'm moving from California to Houston with my two Dachshunds. It'll take four days driving about 8 hours each day and spending the night in different places. I need advice about the best way to do this (feeding time, potting breaks, etc)
How can I make this trip comfortable for my dogs.

Answer
When my family drove from California to Louisiana and back, we would start 6 or 7 in the morning and drive until 6 or 7 in the evening. However, we would stop for lunch and other necessities. You will love Houston, I go there every month. Downtown is fantastic, Westheimer is one of the main avenues in Downtown Houston. They have art, theater, museums and a thousand other things to do. Be sure to check out the underground stores during the week. Make sure you keep plenty of water on board at all times and make stops throughout the day to give your dogs time to stretch their legs. The dogs will be fine, we brought along my short haired dachshund and she came through with flying colors. Try not to let them eat too much while they are in the car, they could get sick at their stomach. Please make sure you have your dogs on a leash before you allow them out of the car, it only takes a minute for disaster to happen.

How much does a hip replacement for a dog usually cost?

SUNNY

I have a pug that is 9 and approx 22lbs. I haven't made an apt for the vet yet but would like an idea of what I could possibly be looking at. Lets just say 1 hip and not THR (total hip replcement). Thanks!

Answer
In Houston, TX the cost of a hip replacement is somewhere around $6000 for one hip. The price will be different in different states and with different vets. Since your dog is small the cost may be a little lower because less anesthesia and smaller hardware. You will want to make sure that the vet you choose to do the surgery is a board certified orthopedic surgeon. Your vet should be able to give you a referral and if not you can find one in your area at www.acvs.org

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is it safe to put cat litter on the ground for my dogs?

best dog kennel for flying image

onehotmom

I have 2 dog kennels and they are on dirt well the dirt is very hard and it is not soaking up the dog urine and it smells in there i clean and spray it down 2 day but it is not working and the fly's are getting in there and biteing my dogs so what can i do or put in there to help with the poo and pee?

Answer
I'm NOT trying to be mean, I honestly want to help, so if something comes across as mean, know that I didn't mean it that way.

Is it possible for you to keep your dogs inside more often, and housetrain them if they already arent?

Another idea is to have an area with gravel or another kind of dirt (with OUT fertalizer) and designate that as their potty area? Maybe add a "pee post" in it so they learn to go there as opposed to the other area.

Make sure you clean it out every day if not more than once a day. If the flies are getting to your dog, they make a cream for that to put on them where the flies are mainly biting them. They are also EXTREMELY attracted to the poop. You won't get rid of them until you clean it up very often and they have no reason to come back.

How can i get my dad to let me have this dog?

James Smit

Yesterday i went to a last hope dog kennel and i found a gorgeous sweet laid back calm dog. He is a staffordshire bull terrier mix with something else. He has a brindle coat but the sad thing is he is going to get put to sleep in 13 days. My dad thinks its gonna run down the street and bite people. He has never seen the dog before. I tried to get him to go look at him but he refuses to. Someone please help me find ways to convince him to let me have him.

Answer
Is he allowing you to get a dog of any kind? If he's not convinced at getting a dog then it will be very difficult.

No doubt he's probably concerned about getting a staff cross because of all the negative media. They actually are normally very people friendly and can make fantastic family dogs. I know some people with full staffs and they say they are the most loving dogs they've had and very sweet. Staffs can be very sweet and are adorable.

There is no reason to assume they are going to bite somebody! Most staffs wouldn't hurt a fly, the problem is when you get the wrong people trying to own them and making them aggressive. This is what all the bad media has done! There are now so many staffs in rescue centres because of all the bad media.

It's like with Rottweilers etc aswell, many people think they are monsters when many, many of them are just big softies and very sweet.

The least your dad could do is meet them for himself and see what they are really like.

You should find as much articles and positive media on the Staffordshire Bull Terrier as possible, there is a lot on the internet and get a book on them so he can read it for himself. If he reads about them he will find that actually they can make very, very loving family dogs. They used to have a great rep as one of the best family dogs.

I'm sure when he reads positive information on the staff, he will come around. Also get him to look at pictures of them and remind him that in a week they will be put to sleep unless you take them in. I'm sure he couldn't resist then, they are so adorable especially when their mouth is open, it looks like they are smiling.

This is what irresponsible and idiotic owners who shouldn't be allowed any kind of dog and the media have done to some dog breeds. Very sad.

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Can you keep a chinchilla in a large dog kennel?

best large dog kennel image

Megan A

I'm getting two chinchillas tomorrow and I really don't want to pay for a 70 dollar cage when I can get a better one online, So i was wondering can they temporarily stay in a dog kennel that's pretty big?

Answer
Purchase the right cage. Your cage needs to be large enough to accommodate your chinchilla and in a relatively quiet room. For chinchillas, the bigger the cage, the better. They like to run around and bounce off cage walls as well as hop small platforms.

Make sure your cage is chin-proof. No hard plastics or soft plastics and only chinchilla-safe wood in the cage. Chinchillas need to chew and will chew on anything and everything they can. They can nibble through wood without a problem.


Everyone starts with a small cage and, within a year or two, upgrades to something bigger and nicer. Why not take the plunge right away and save yourself the expense of purchasing two cages? By getting a cage you will be happy with forever you will save yourself the annual search for "the perfect cage".

Of course, if you REALLY want to save money you can build your own cage. This might be a good choice anyway, as it's the only way you might achieve several features that you want.

HOW TO DO IT

So you need a sturdy metal cage. If you're keeping adults 1 inch gaps are fine. If you are planning on breeding you'll need no larger than 1 inch by 1/2 inch spacing between the bars. Wooden or wire (or some unchewable surface) are a must for shelves. Ramps should be eliminated as they present an unnecessary hazard. You don't need a very large cage, especially if you plan on letting your chinchilla our for frequent exercise. The bottom may be solid or wire, but if it is wire give your chinchilla a piece of wood to rest their paws on.
The Ferret Nation cage is easily adaptable for the chinchilla with some custom pans. It can be divided into two separate cages or provide one huge cage. The cage should cost about $175 plus shipping, and you can get the custom pans for a reasonable price from Bass Equipment. The ramps are removable and you can upgrade afterwards to wooden shelves (purchased separately).

This is probably the most popular choice among knowledgeable chinchilla owners, as it is an attractive cage that will last a very long time.

Another solid choice is a chinchilla cage from Quality Cage. These cages come with wooden shelves, and they have cages of several sizes. This is a cage you would also be happy with, and you may well be getting a wheel from Quality Cage anyway.

You might find a similar cage locally, although that seems more and more difficult as the pet stores seem to be moving more to online sales. Smaller metal cages will be available, but I strongly urge you to carefully consider whether you will be happy with this cage in six months or a year. Of course, you should also consider the space you have, for these cages can run rather large (perfect for that big exercise wheel!)

You may be considering a more commercial cage if you are becoming a breeder.

If you can find the right cage, and you're a little handy, you also have the option to build a cage.

hoped i helped, if u ask me this is the fastest ans easiest and cheapest way for your solution.. this would help u alot. good luck :::::::

can my pet chinchilla live in a dog kennel?

Jessi Baby

i have a pet chinchilla, but his cage is kinda small. i have a large sized dog kennel though, thoroughly cleaned and everything, with plenty of room. i have some shelves and stuff i can put in it for him to jump on and climb on. would a dog kennel be an ok cage for a little bit?

Answer
I think it's sad to keep an animal in a cage. Would you want to spend your life stuck in a house all the time? Wouldn't you feel restless? Animals can feel restless too. They are not here for our personal amusement.

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Air travel and little dogs, how do i make it the most comfortable?

best dog boarding new york image

aguy

I will be bringing my little Norwich Terrier on a trip to Denmark. We will take off from San Francisco to New York and then from New York to Denmark.
The total travel time is 15 hrs, 5 and 8 hours plus some overlay time.

He will be sitting with us in the cabin in a special carrier. What can i do to make the flight time the most comfortable for him?

Answer
Ask your vet for a tranquilizer. This is not an unusual request and he'll just give you however many is needed for the trip. Just pop it in a piece of hot dog or cheese and give it to him about a half hour before boarding. He'll not be "knocked out," just pleasantly sleepy and calm. It will be much less traumatic for him.

Is it safe to travel with my dog on a plane?

redhead27

I have heard that there are some horror stories and the airline employees put the animal at the wrong end of the plane where the air is not pressurized.

Does anyone have experience with dogs on a plane as cargo? I am traveling with mine in late september and a little nervous.

Answer
A friend of mine travels with his siberian husky from New York to California at least every other month, and has never had any problems. He jokes that if his dog had a frequent flier number, he would have racked up a lot of miles by now.

His advice:

Make sure you notify the airlines that you are flying with a pet. They need to know so that they will prepare for it. Most airlines will not allow you to fly with a dog without prior arrangement.

When you check in, make sure to mention again that you are flying with a pet.

When you are boarding the plane, mention one more time that you are flying with your pet. This will ensure that at least 3 people at 3 different times heard you.

For your dog:

freeze some water and then attach it in the crate. As the flight goes on, he will have a constant supply of water nearby that won't spill. He puts calming formula in the water, which helps to calm his dog. http://www.petherbsdirect.com/calming-formula-for-dogs-2-p-54.html?osCsid=8648cfc02019953d7a506574e3640108

Feed him a small meal a couple of hours before flying and then walk him. Make sure he has a bowel movement. Allow him to stretch his legs and try to tire him out. He will rest for most of the flight.

Place a toy or favorite blanket in the crate.

Make sure that your dog has tags with a number where you can be reached. Make sure that the crate has the same info.


Best of luck on your trip.

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Why does my Westie have a strip of yellow on his back?

dog crates unlimited image

??????????

I have bathed him with shampoo formulated for white dogs but it never seems to go away. He is inside 90% of the time and then rest of his fur stays pretty clean. Can someone help me?

Answer
This very question was raised by a pet buyer to a Westie Breeder, please read:

From
http://cache.search.yahoo-ht2.akadns.net/search/cache?ei=UTF-8&p=westie+dog+yellow+back+stripe&y=Search&fr=yfp-t-501&u=www.arrowheadacreswesties.com/faq.html&w=westie+dog+dogs+yellow+back+stripe&d=KO5qVpzfQu4X&icp=1&.intl=us


Q: Do any of your Westies have the beige or yellow looking dorsal stripe down the center of the back?

A: Some of them do and some do not. This is a perfectly acceptable trait even in the show ring. At first glance you would not even notice this. The light discolored stripe could be there for two reasons. The first reason could be because in the grooming process too much live coat has been removed. The second and more likely reason is a matter of genetic background going back to the origin of the Westie many years ago, the Carin Terrier.




On this page we have tried to answer questions that have been asked throughout our years of breeding. These are questions you need answered prior to the decision to purchase a Westie or before the arrival of your new puppy.

Each puppy adoption is unique, so if you do not find the answer to your specific question, please feel free to call 252-478-4246 or email us at cindy@arrowheadacreswesties.com. We will answer each question to the best of our ability.

When you purchase an Arrowhead Acres Westie you will receive a brochure with some training, and bonding tips, a feeding schedule, also grooming and crate training advice. This brochure will answer most of the questions you will have after the arrival of your new Westie puppy. We will also be available to give advice and support.


Q: What is the difference in limited and unlimited registration?

A: If your puppy is purchased from Arrowhead Acres on a limited AKC registration he/she is NOT eligible to register offspring with AKC. It will also NOT be able to participate in any AKC sponsored conformation events.

If your puppy is purchased from Arrowhead Acres on an unlimited AKC registration he/she IS eligible to register offspring with AKC. The puppy IS also eligible to compete in any AKC sponsored conformation events.

Basically, for a person or family wanting a beautiful, healthy, fun, companion the limited AKC registration is what you need. If you are interested in conformation, showing, or breeding you will need an unlimited AKC registration.

We reserve the right to make the final decision rather to sale our babies on limited or unlimited AKC registration.


Q: Are Westies good with children?

A: A Westie can be your childâs best friend. Westies are a hardy, confident breed and can physically handle a certain amount of horseplay. They love to chase a ball and play tug of war. They can also play the role of a baby doll. They will make an excellent bed partner for your child, if this is acceptable in your home.

It will take a certain amount of discipline, training and supervision for the child and the puppy in the beginning. Never leave a child under five years old alone with a young puppy. If you plan on having children in the lifetime of your puppy you will need to acquaint your puppy with children while he/she is under one year old. The puppy will need to spend ample time socializing with children to be receptive and enjoy a new member of his/her family later in its life. A Westie that is mature and NEVER been around small children may not think kindly of a new creature in his space. But even a grown, mature Westie that has been taught his role and some manners will at least tolerate a new addition to the family.

Over the years we have heard many, many happy stories of a child and their Westie being inseparable. If any issues of discipline or any problems arise please, please call or email us.

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Q: Do Westies have genetic or congenital defects that are common to the breed? If so have any of these defects made themselves present in your bloodlines?

A: Genetic or congenital defects are relatively few in Westies. The Westie has been left for the most part in its natural, original state. Up to this point there has not been a lot of indiscriminate breeding nor has man made any demands for big changes in their conformation or coats. Only the white coat color was used in the development of the Westie and it is the result of a dominant gene.

There are only four or five serious or possibly lethal, genetic defects that can be found on occasion in a Westie and in our almost seventeen years of breeding not one has presented itself in our bloodlines. We have had only five or six puppies over the years that have gone to their new homes and a congenital problem has arisen. At these times we have run all test and exhausted all possibilities of the defect being genetic. We offer a very extensive guarantee to cover any congenital or genetic problems should they arise.


Q: Do you recommend the use of a crate for house training? If so what size and type?

A: We strongly recommend the use of a crate for house training. The crate is also a great tool to protect your puppy and your home.

We recommend the airline approved plastic crates. This type crate will make your puppy feel more secure and he /she will be free from drafts more than in a wire cage. The size of the crate is very important. A dog will not soil where he has to lie down if at all possible. It needs to be just large enough for an adult Westie to stand up and turn around in comfortably. The approximate measurements should be 17âwide by 25âdeep by 16â tall.


Q: Is there a history of skin allergies in your Westies? If my Westie does develop allergies do you have any advice?

Click here for the answer.


Q: Are Westies hypoallergenic or do they shed?

A: The AMA reports the Westies have relatively low dander and shed almost none (ranked # 7) and in most cases is acceptable for individuals with asthma or allergies.


Q: Do you have champions in your bloodlines?

A: We have been breeding Westies for almost seventeen years and in the beginning there was a reasonable amount of champions in the bloodlines. After seventeen years all the champions are off of the pedigrees. But we have dogs that could more than qualify for the show ring and we have placed several puppies over the years in successful show homes. We feel we do not have to have dogs with the title of champion to raise champions. Our main goal is to raise healthy, happy and good-tempered companions.


Q: Do you show your Westies?

A: In our years of successfully showing horses we have found that any type of conformation showing is very political. Showing is not always about the horse, or the dog in this case, but who is at the end of the lead so we have never had the desire to show our dogs. We have sold several puppies to show homes over the years. In recent months (2007) we have considered placing one of our puppies with a local handler to try our hand at this competive sport.


Q: What kind of food do you feed? If the kind of food you feed is not available to me what do you recommend?

A: Our puppies are on Pro Pac Performance Puppy from the time they are three weeks old. You will be sent home with enough of this food to last four or five days. If you are unable to find this food we recommend Science Diet, Iams or Ukanuba puppy food.


Q: Do Westies make a good lap dog?

A: For some Westies in your lap will be their favorite spot. While other Westies want to be close to you but not necessarily always in your lap. These loving traits along with the confident traits of your beloved companion allow them to be an ever present member of your family while also being content with your absence during your busy days.
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Q: Do Westies like to travel, hike, swim, ride on boats, ride on a bike or motorcycle?

A: Westies like to share in your activities. They are confident and hardy and if introduced to any activity correctly and safely they are sure to enjoy it as long as it is shared with you.
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Q: What age should a puppy be when it goes to its new home?

A: Breeders and vets differ in their opinion as to what is the best age for a puppy to go home to its new family.

When we started breeding Westies in 1992 it was typical to send puppies home at six weeks. We have had great success with our babies leaving at six weeks. Still today most of our puppies go to their families at six weeks. Over the years as breeders and vets learned more about the psychological aspect of a puppy some breeders went to eight weeks. My mom bred Maltase for fifteen years. Because the Maltese were a fragile breed and so small, she kept her babies until eight weeks and sometimes ten or twelve weeks if they were extra tiny. Westies are a very stout, hardy breed. Our babies here at Arrowhead Acres have dry kibble available to them at three weeks of age so at six weeks they are eating well and for the most part going outside to potty.

There are advantages and disadvantages to taking a puppy home at six or eight weeks. Two of the advantages to the six-week age are bonding and dominance. In our opinion from six to seven weeks is a terrific bonding period. At this age you can also establish a dominance role easily. Instead of finding his position in âa pack of dogsâ he will find a place in your family. The advantage to eight weeks is the transition does seem a little easier on the puppy and there seems to be less crying and separation anxiety. However, all of our puppies are well socialized. If they remain here with us at Arrowhead Acres until they are ten or twelve weeks the transition into your home will still be successful.

We do not leave the pups with their mamas over six weeks because most of our mamas are thirteen to seventeen lbs. and a six-week-old litter of four or five puppies is just to hard o

Just wondering how long it would take to house train a lab puppy ?

i dont have a dog its just a general quiry :)
what a lot of answers ? thanks so much for everyones answers :D

Answer
Depends on how successfully you are trained in letting your puppy outside. My girl did not have accidents after the age of 12 weeks using the method below and a combination of training her to ring a bell a the door. Once she figured out ringing the bell got her outside, she never had another accident. Of course I was very committed to letting her out and therefore we were both trained.

House Training
House training your dog is simple if you follow a few basic rules. Remember that puppies younger than 10 to 12 weeks have little control. Accidents will always happen when teaching puppies to be clean in the house. Be kind and patient, and reward handsomely all outdoor elimination. Always remember that dogs do what works for them. Make outdoor pottying work really well for your puppy.
1) The puppy must have NO time unsupervised in your home. NONE. If you are not directly watching the puppy, it should be in the crate, or outside in a safe area. You MUST watch the puppy at ALL times when loose in the house. Use baby gates, crates, or tie the leash to your belt.
2) The puppy should sleep inside the crate by your bedside. This way you can hear if the puppy should happen to need to go out during the night.
3) You must go WITH the puppy outside for ALL trips for elimination. You must have treats with you. When the puppy is urinating, say "GO PEE PEE" in a nice praise tone of voice the entire time. When she is finished, pop the treat into her mouth at once, and praise praise praise. This should be something she gets at no other time, like tiny pieces of string cheese or boiled chicken. Same for defecation. Say "GO POOP" while she is going, and food reward and praise afterwards. You must observe and reward ALL outdoor potty time.
4) Keep a schedule. Feed at the same time, and walk outside at the same times. Your pup needs at least 4 trips outdoors each day, and 5 is probably better. Pup needs to go out at wake up time, lunch time, 4-5 PM, after dinner or any other meals, and before bed. Younger puppies may need to go out much more often.
5) Use a key word each time you go out. I say "Let's go out!!" in a happy tone of voice each time I'm opening the door to go out with the dog.
6) If you catch the puppy IN THE ACT of eliminating in your house, CLAP YOUR HANDS, say AH AH, OUTSIDE!! And immediately rush her outside. If she finishes there, do your usual food reward and praise.
The keys to getting your dog reliably housetrained are:
SUPERVISION: NO loose time in the house if you are not watching
REWARDS: ALL outdoor elimination MUST be observed and rewarded. If you only do this ONE thing, your puppy will get housetrained.
PATIENCE: Anger and punishment have no place in dog training. Elimination is a natural and pleasurable experience for your dog. You can teach her to not soil your house, but punishment will NOT help. It will only teach the dog to hide when she needs to eliminate.
If you have applied these techniques carefully for 4 weeks and you are still finding spots or piles after the fact, it's time for stronger measures. Roll up a newspaper and fasten both ends with a rubber band. Keep it handy. The very next time you find a spot of a pile that the dog has left behind, whip out that newspaper, and hit YOURSELF over the head firmly several times as you repeat "I FORGOT TO WATCH MY PUPPY".
Works every time.
:D
This article copyright 2004/2007, RedyreRottweilers. Free for unlimited distribution as long as copyright info remains intact.

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What size crate do I need for a Doberman Pinscher?

dog crates designer image

Misty_00

Hi! I am currently crate training my puppy, and while the crate that I am using now is great (we were given it as a hand-me-down), I am starting to see that my pup will most likely outgrow it in the next 3 weeks. He is a purebred Doberman, and I am starting to shop for crates online. Can anyone reccomend any brands (that are durable) or sizes that would be good for this breed? Online, crates are listed by inches (not small, med, or large), so I am trying to decipher the sizes to make sure that I don't purchase one that is not too small or too big.

Answer
HI, We crate trained our dog and was able to buy at the petstore one that has an expansion capability. While she was growing we could adjust her kennel so she didn't have too much room and could be trained. If it is too big then they will go potty in it and not learn how to use the crate beneficially. See if your local store has one that can be adjusted for her size or buy one that will be for her recommended size and block it off inside to allow for turnaround room and keep moving the divider as your pup grows!
Here is some more specific info on doberman pinscher and crate training that is recommended:
The size of crate for Dobermans varies depending on the size of the dog (males are usually bigger). We recommend no smaller than 24W x 26"H x 32"L (or 400 size) for females and 28-30"W by 30-32"H x 36"L (or 500 size) for males.

With respect to bedding, I recommend putting an old, single layer blanket (nothing with stuffing) in the crate for your puppy. Some pups chew their bedding and an old blanket is worth less than the new $55.00 designer version of a pet bed. More often than not your puppy will rearrange the blanket into his own, comfy bed, so don't worry about folding it. I do not recommend placing ticking alarm clocks or hot water bottles in the crate. To help your new puppy feel a little more secure I recommend an old stuffed teddy bear but be sure that any button eyes and nose are removed or re-stitched securely.

I do not recommend feeding your puppy in the crate unsupervised. As well, do not provide water in the crate, as food and water will cause the puppy to have go potty. You can leave the pup with a safe toy or two and perhaps a doggy biscuit. Do not put your Doberman in the crate wearing a collar, or put rawhide, pig's ears or squeaky toys inside. Remember, you want him to be safe.

For how many hours and until what age are Dobermans crated?

When you first get your new puppy he will be 8-12 weeks of age. At this age it is advisable to have your pup in the crate for no longer than about three hours before letting him out to relieve himself, have a little play and a cuddle. Once your pup reaches 12-16 weeks, about four hours is the longest you will want to crate him. It is not advisable to leave your dog in his crate for longer than 4 hours regardless of age once your get past the 16 week mark. Should you find you must leave your pup for longer than this, then be kind and have a neighbor or relative come in and let your puppy out and spend a little time with him.

There is no exact age when your pup will miraculously be able to be left loose in the house unsupervised. Each dog is different. Personally, I would continue with your crate routine until your dog is six months old. At this time you can "test" the dog. Leave him out for very short periods of time when you are preoccupied. Watch what he does. Then increase the time spent out until he stays out while you are sleeping. If he shows himself trustworthy, then you can begin to "test" him when you go out. Only ten minutes at first. Then an hour, then two or three. Do not rush to getting your dog "crate-free" as bad habits can still be formed.

Hope this is what you were looking for and best of luck to you and your new pup!

What do you think about dog car seat and dog carrier bags?

Sb19

I'ver never seen these things til I got a dog.

Answer
Don't get me going on purse puppies as I call them. Dogs unless they are disabled should walk! Even many disabled dogs have devices made so as they can walk.

I do agree with devices to secure a dog in a car, but then again I just use a secured crate. No need for these special "designer" type things.

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I am sending a cat to Australia via plane. Any suggestions on crate and what to include? I'm very worried.?

dog crates new zealand image

Barbara

Answer
Cats shipped to Australia must travel in special quarantine crates under strict quarantine conditions. Prior to arrival, the cat must be chipped, vaccinated and tested by an authorised vet. Upon arrival, if it is coming from anywhere other than New Zealand, it must stay in quarantine for at least 30 days or longer if the correct procedures were not carried out before shipment. You should have the shipment handled by an international pet transport company.
http://www.daff.gov.au/aqis/cat-dogs Bringing cats and dogs to Australia

EDIT:
Take no notice of anyone telling you that it somehow wrong of you to ship your pets to Australia. I've shipped cats and dogs between the USA and Australia on several occasions and they have always travelled quite happily and arrived in good condition.

The crates (one per adult animal) MUST be IATA approved for the shipment of cats/dogs. The water container must be present within the container with outside access for filling. Food containers must be present either within the container, if sealed, or attached to it for use in cases of delay. I've always used specialist shipping companies and the crate, food and water containers and bedding have always been provided by them. Send their own blanket but there should be additional bedding designed so that the top layer remains dry.
http://www.iata.org/whatwedo/cargo/live-animals/pets/Pages/index.aspx
http://www.iata.org/whatwedo/cargo/live-animals/Documents/Container-information-applicable-to-cats-and-dogs-CR1-LAR-2012.pdf Container design

What steps should I take to make sure my bunnies stay comfortable this winter?

My Dogs ar

Unfortuantly I still do not have a proper hutch built for them, they are still living in a very large divided dog crate on the front porch. Today Kimchi escaped into Lantern's half of the kennel, and they didn't even fight (they're intact brothers)... shows how cold they were... they were even found snuggling through the bars this morning!

Anyway, since it is especially cold tonight (about 29F) and it can get down to around 16 F at coldest temperatures (not very cold to many, but to us, verrrry cold), I stuffed hay into their boxes, and made sure a thick load blanket was covering all sides of the crate... I also put a heat lamp in the front of it, which should hopefully keep it warm enough and keep their waterers from freezing.

I don't really want to make the heat lamp a long term thing unless I have to as I am already running on in the chicken shed for the baby chicks (expensive light!).

Is there anything I can do with their diet that will help them brave the low temperatures better? They are two holland lop cross bunnies, approx 2.5lbs each. Each day they get 1/8 cup of pellets and unimited hay to eat. Should I double the amount of pellets to help them gain some winter fat?

Thanks for reading...
The bunnies are full grown.

They cannot come inside, too messy (bedding spills out of the cage).

They are outdoor animals.

No room in the chicken coop... besides, the bunnies and the cage would be coated in chicken poop... ick.
Well, get over it, they're outdoor rabbits and are going live outdoors, just like all the happy wild rabbits in the woods.

Answer
Your rabbits seem to be in good condition to me. I have two rabbits of my own who have lived outside for about 3 years now and they are still fine. In the Summer and Spring when it is hotter, give them plenty of water and plenty of grass and other vegetables etc. they do not eat as much in the Summer or Spring. When it is about Autumn and Winter, the weather would be colder so make sure you feed them more pellets than usual, still give them their daily intake of vegetables and grass etc. And if you are really worried about their diets etc. you could buy a few rabbit vitamins from the supermarket if you wish. They are basically flavoured yoghurt like treats which my rabbits don't really like much.

So yes, i suggest you should double the amount of pellets you give them. And since your rabbit hutch is still unfinished and does not have very good insulation, you could cover the hutch with a something water and windproof since they are living outside. However, my rabbits do not need it in the winter even though it gets freezing here in New Zealand sometimes in the winter such as dropping to about 4 degrees celsius in the mornings, they have a separate area in their hutch which acts like a bedroom for them.

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Im about to get a chihuahua puppy but i dont know what shots it needs,what medication it needs and food/drink?

SUMAN

can anyone help me?

Answer
You should do some research in training especially but for now, get him a reliable vet. He/She will know what shots to give the new puppy. He'll need a distemper, heartworm protection if in warm areas, kennel cough, and some others that i dont remember. He'll need a rabies at 6 months of age and spay/neutered at that age too.

He needs a GOOD quality hollistic premium kibble such as Innova Puppy (which is the best food there is, all human grade meets that pass the USDA inspection) Karma Oragnics, Eagle Pack, Solid Gold, etc. These brands are EXPENSIVE but you will save money on it later on vet bills and you feed less becasue they have no fillers. Innova is what i feed and its 20$/6.6 lbs or 48$/16 lbs (in ottawa)

If you can't afford those prices then i suggest a brand like Wellness or Costco's Kirkland dog food. Those are cheaper but still pretty good.

AVOID foods like IAMS, Eukanuba, pedigree, purina. They might be famous but are HORRIBLE for your dog.

Drink: just give her plenty of water.

Other Supplies: a crate with a divider, crate set, playpen, nylabone, kongs, other chew toys, some stuffed toys, food/water dish, collar, leash, harness, training books, puppy classes

good luck :)

What size dog crate should i get?

washing ma

I have a new Labrador puppy and i want to crate train her. i want to buy a crate that will fit her when she is fully grown. I was going to buy a crate with these dimensions. L,48" W,30" H,32". is this too big? we also want to be able to fit it in our car.

Answer
Get dividers for the crate so, as your pup grows, you can increase the size of the crate to accomodate the size of your growing puppy!

They also have collapsable ones for easy transportation use!

For my pup I just took my mother's old large dog crate off of her and blocked off the back part of the crate with blankets then made more room as the pup grew.

Cheap of me yes, but it still worked the same!

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How do I pottytrain an adult dog who has never had to go outside or hold her bladder?

dog crates 101 image

mrsbroyles

don't ask how that happened, its a long story. anyway, She is three years old and very set in her ways of pottying wherever she is in the house. yuck! How would I go about potty training her? I can't really crate train her because she doesnt care, she will just potty in the crate (no matter how small) and also she will just cry and holler all day. She is just not the crate type of dog. any suggestions?

Answer
Yes! You can still housebreak her. But it's like puppy 101...meaning you have to have someone constantly with her. Take her out every hour or even more at first, and wait and wait some more til she goes 'potty'. You want to be calm and quiet until she does this, no play, no petting....just stay with her til she goes. When she does, turn on the excitement. Lots of praise, and treats or toys, whatever she likes best. Point to her 'business' and tell her 'good potty' when she looks where you're pointing, sniffs, etc.

You have to make a positive association with the new place to do her business, so that she'll have the motivation to hold out for play/praise, treats, etc.
You can also start to feed her in a crate. Many times dogs will refrain from eliminating where they eat. Do this in very short periods of time at first. Give her the meal, close the door while she eats, and open immediately when she's done. Then go outside to 'potty'. Gradually she should learn to like her crate and start going in it, in anticipation of her meal or treats. Let her wait for gradually longer periods of time, door closed, before giving food. Then mix it up and give food, but wait longer to let her out. Do this as often as possible, and until she's housebroken, *always* take her out to potty first thing out of the crate. Just make this new learning experience as fun for her a possible, and she should catch on in no time.

I suspect she was a neglect or abuse case, so kudos to you for giving her a fresh start!!

ADD: If she does have an accident, be sure to calmly and quietly take it outside and put it where she normally goes potty. Show it to her and praise her calmly when she shows interest in it, being sure to repeat the command 'potty' or whatever you choose to use as her cue to eliminate outside.

Will you help me make a list of things for a new dog?

DeDeSK8S

Hello, i do not have a thing for a dog and im getting a yorkshire i will have 150.00 for supplies what do i need and what kind of food do you prefer?
please be detailed

Answer
Vet
Obedience classes
Leash & collar
long runner leash for play
crate
bed
blanket
a few toys
stainless steel food and water bowls
doggy tooth brush & paste
nail clippers
comb/brush
Our pets need quality pet food. Read the ingredients list and learn what the stuff on there is and what it does (or does not do) to/for our pets. A quick pet food 101. If the pet food contains corn/corn products or by products it is a poor quality food. Corn is a filler that can trigger skin problems. (allergies, skin problems, itching and excessive shedding) By products is anything from an animal not fit for human consumption, including cancerous tissue. Do not pay attention to advertising, they all say there food is great. "Vet approved" means they have a vet on staff to approve their product. In other words, someone paid to approve it. Same with foods most vets recommend. Salesmen "gift" vets then the vet recommends the food. Most vets are not nutritionists! Quality foods have meat as the first ingredient. California Natural, Solid Gold, Innova and Merrick are a few of the best brands available. If you want to learn more check out: http://www.sagekeep.com/petfood.htm www.api4animals.org/facts?p=359& more=1 http://animalark.eapps.com/animal/PetFoods.nsf/$$PetFoodsByRating?OpenForm

the first thing to remember about housetraining a puppy is there ability to hold themselves is limited. a rule of thumb is they can hold "it" usually 1 hour for each month of age. 2 months old = 2 hours, 3 months old = 3 hours, etc. when your puppy wakes up (marning, nap, whatever) the pup has to go, right then! take the pup out. when the pup eats or drinks, it has to go, take the pup out. after exercise (play), take the pup out. when the pup does it's thing outside praise it. a lot. tell the pup how good, how smart it is. you have to pay attention to the pups "looking for it's spot" behavior. when you see that behavior indoors, whisk the pup out. if you catch the pup in the act, simply tell it "NO!" and whisk it outside. if you find a puddle or pile after the fact, clean it up with an enzyme cleaner (pet food store) get a newspaper and hit.... yourself in the head and say "i should have been paying more attention" daytime training they get pretty fast. night time training is easier if you crate train the pup. also remember the one hour/one month rule. you will have to get up through the night to take the pup out. good luck

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please help me to find a puppy seller in the area of new Delhi,India?

best dog kennel in delhi image

bcam

Answer
Get the Times of India/Hindustan Times sunday edition. Turn to the Classified section. Unlike America where reputable breeders usually do not like to advertise in the papers, Reputable Indian breeders do advertise in the papers. Also contact the IKC or the INKC (Indian Kennel Club or Indian National Kennel Club)- and they will refer you to breeders.

Best, is go to Blue Cross. They have wonderful dogs. They are rescues and by giving them a home, you will be saving their lives and that is very good Karma.

As for the strange people who think Indians eat dogs- you have seen Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom too many times. Indians are most likely to be vegetarian. If they are not- chicken and goat are the consumed meats- Very few Indians even eat the pork and beef that you most likely do. Dogs are eaten in the far east yes, but by getting your countries confused, you are displaying shocking ignorance.

Dog lovers plz answer :)?

simran

plz tel me the names of registered and trustworthy kennels in delhi/NCR (india)
i dying to buy a puppy but dont know from where i should, so plz help.
u cal also tel me about your personal experience of buying yours...
will appreciate your help...

Answer
Please go to an animal shelter or rescue! Animals die EVERY DAY because breeders and irresponsible pet owners. Most of the time you can find a pure bred dog/puppy if that's really what you want. Mix breed are healthier than pure breeds though.

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Does the Fort Wilderness Campground in Disney World allow dogs or offer dog day care?

best friends dog kennel disney image

kaitlin_br

Answer
Yes, Fort Wilderness is the only pet friendly Disney hotel! It is set up in "loops," and several loops are designated pet friendly. http://allears.net/acc/faq_fw.htm

in addition, Disney World does have kennels which are managed by Best Friends Pet Care. One of these kennels is located near Fort Wilderness's entrance. They offer day care, grooming, and doggy day camp. http://allears.net/tp/kennels.htm

Disney World - Stay In Park Or Out Of Park With 3 Kids And Dog?

Lydia

My husband and I are overwhelmed with all the options of a WDW Vacation. We plan on going to the parks about 7 days of our visit. 5 people total and a dog. Are the kennels at the parks good? Or would we be better off getting a hotel out of the park that is pet friendly? There are so many pros and cons to both of these options I can't decide which to choose.
Leaving the dog home is NOT an option! I want the best for kids and dog.
Dog HAS to come with us. He is treated as a family member. We don't have anyone else to care for him anyway. If you have used the kennels at the parks please let me know how well your pet did and how you felt about the kennel experience.
This is going to be a one time Disney experience for my children so I want the best for ALL.

Answer
Normally I always recommend staying onsite at Disney. It is the best way to experience Disney, especially if this is a once in a lifetime trip. However, Disney does not allow dogs at their resorts (except for service animals). The only option you would have with Disney is Fort Wilderness Campgrounds, not sure if you are wanting to camp for the vacation, but that would be the only place you can bring your dog.


If you really want to stay somewhere nice that will allow pets and make for a really nice vacaton, I would recommend staying at one of the Universal Resorts. They are a little higher in cost then most of the Disney resorts, but very nice and worth the cost. I believe they charge a $25 fee to allow pets.

The other option is going to be offsite. If you choose to go this way, just be sure to do a lot of research. Many of the hotels offsite are not in the best condition. When they allow pets, the overall quality can be decreased, as many of them don't clean very well.


Just be sure that you find out all requirements that you need. You will likely need proof of vaccinations, and a paper from your vet stating that the pooch is healthy. You definitely don't want to get there and find out that you are missing something.


I personally have not taken my pets with me on vacation. One is pretty sensitive to heat, the other has allergies and things like that, and I have several pets, so it would be difficult to take them with me. Also, I've always been a little concerned how well the rooms are cleaned so that I know my dog is not going to catch anything from staying there. I've had some friends stay in pet-friendly rooms that they were not very satisfied with the quality. So, I leave my pets at home with their regular care-takers and things so I know they are well taken care of.

Now, as far as kennels, again, I've not used them. However, the people I've talked to that have has been very happy. I believe that Disney does require you come by a few times a day to walk your dog and play with them a little bit. So, you will have to schedule that into your day. I will include a link with some reviews of the kennels for you to look over.



I hope this helps!

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How does a dog shock collar work?

best dog kennel victoria image

How does a dog shock collar work? because my husband says we have to get one for both our dogs. I was sad to hear this but the problems is that my dogs bark all night at anything they hear. In particular ambulances, and other dogs walking by. During the day the problem is even worste- Can someone help me?

Answer
By shocking your dog on a very sensitive part of their body, making them fear you.
You do not have to get one for both of your dogs.
These methods - and the use of shock collars - are dangerous methods of "training" and are not effective.
There is no reason to use these methods.
They are just as bad as those fences.
I agree with professional [positive reinforcement] trainer Victoria Stilwell and the points she has made about electric dog fences.
I also agree with her on her stance for shock collars as a training method.

" * Using shock to train dogs. "Many dogs are anxious about going out in their yards after receiving the shock and freak out,â not wanting to go out in the yard again.
* The electronic fence is dangerous. "Countless dogs run through the electric fences and they get shocked so badly that they don't want to come back. . . lots of them are getting lost."
* "A lot of dogs are getting killed because they go out onto the road" after running through the fence.
* Electronic containment systems do not stop other animals and people coming onto the property.
* "People leave their animals out with a false sense of security."
http://www.examiner.com/small-dogs-in-new-york/victoria-stillwell-no-shocks-for-dogs

http://dogtime.com/electric-fences-safe-ethical-diane-podolsky-faq.html

Look at these articles: http://positively.com/files/100101-bestfriends.pdf
http://positively.com/2011/01/17/electronic-collars-vs-traditional-leashes-for-exercising-dogs-on-town-streets%E2%80%94a-cause-of-debate-in-one-small-town-in-missouri/

Also dogs bark for numerous reasons! Mostly boredom and lack of attention by owners.
Read this article about barking: http://positively.com/2011/06/04/barking-barking-barking-etc-etc-etc/

So I beg you DO NOT use shock collars, or electric/invisible fences, as a way to train your dog. Be RESPONSIBLE and do your RESEARCH about what damage they can do to your dog.
Use positive reinforcement training - it is most effective and not cruel.
Look at these sites:
American Kennel Club - www.akc.org
United Kennel Club - www.ukcdogs.com
The Association of Pet Dog Trainers - www.apdt.com
APDT Rally Obedience - www.apdt.com/po/rally

www.clickertrain.com
www.clickertraining.com
www.clickerteachers.net

www.patriciamcconnell.com

www.peaceablepaws.com

www.trulydogfriendly.com

Do any royal ladies or courtiers keep pekingese dogs anymore?

Blue Angel

Queen Victoria had the first pair outside of China. She adored a male named Lootie. Queen Alexandra never left home without one and they became fashionable for ladies of the court. Maria Fyodorovna was mad for them.
Do any of the royals or courtiers keep up the kennel that Victoria started? I've read that all Pekes in the west are descended from her dogs.

Answer
Many of the Royal Family have dogs, but the idea of 'royal ladies or courtiers' keeping their dogs at Court is NOT what the modern Royal Family is about. LOL

I don't know whether the royal kennels are still in operation much as I think the Labs used on the various Estates are probably bred there. Sandringham? This link may interest (note, it's a couple of years old) ... http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2029871/Queen-controls-Labradors-800-yards-just-using-hand-signals-whistles.html

Certainly the Queen is famous for her Corgis, although I doubt she now has as many as she once did. We all have to cut back as we get older so we don't leave loads when we die. Princess Anne has dogs, and William and Catherine have a Cocker Spaniel - famously.

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Any good ideas, how to teach my 3 month old NOT to bite?

dog crates pet food express image

Q. She is a Border Collie,Pointer,? mix. She left her Mother at 6 weeks. It was too early, but couldn't be helped. I have given her chew toys, Rawhide chewbones, small tennis balls, to chew on. She still jumps up on me with her front two legs, and bites and mouths. Her teeth are very sharp, so it is painful. I don't want to punish her, but she needs to learn not to do this to people. So far, I have only sternly told her NO! And DOWN! With a hand signal of my hand moving from shoulder height, quickly down to my thigh, pointing an index finger down towards the floor.If anyone has any positive suggestions for training her not to do these two bad habits, in a humane and effective manner, it is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
When i said, I do not want to punish her, I mean, that I know she must be disciplined, in order to learn what is acceptable, and what is not. I just do not want to be cruel, as I believe that cruelty would be unecessary and ineffective. Thanks for your comments so far.

Answer
Uh huh...well, she doesn't quite understand what NO and DOwn mean - unless you have taught her "down" already.

Ignoring does not work - they don't know the difference between being ignored because you disapprove of the behavior or because you are trying to the house cleaned. Spray your hands?? How long are you supposed to walk around smelling funny, eh??? Distracting is really dumb - she jumps and nips and you give he food or a toy - that is called "rewarding the behavior." One of the current weirdest theories is giving the dog a "time out" - what, they are supposed to sit in their crate or pen and THINK about their sins ? Sign that dog up for Harvard if it can do that! Just holding their mouth closed is an invitation to keep playing the game. Another one that just esclates the fun - from her point of view - is pushing your hand further in her mouth.

Your best and most effective means of training are your hands and voice - not the gadgets or things

Now there is a difference between "punishment" and correction.

Punishment is the putting the dog in the crate for a time out.

Correction is showing them that what they are doing is not acceptable and communicating it in a way that they understand the message.

(I just lifted this from my materials that I give clients on behavioral problems so - text is not adjusted for the dog's gender)


BITING:


Puppies bite - that is how dogs and puppies play with each other. He thinks he is playing with you by mock fighting. Its a dog's favorite game - watch two good dog buddies ripping tearing rolling - and diving at each other and grabbing without puncturing.

You have to DO something about it.

Now what is really really neat is your puppy came pre-programmed to understand certain behavior as disapproval and approval. In dog language, behavior is communication.

In a group of dogs, if he nipped the leader and the leader was not amused, they would knock him over, grab the skin on his neck or the side of his face and pinch it without breaking the skin, and growl.

So do what they would do. That is something a dog understands instinctively. Lot of theories out there about yelping in pain and pushing him away (duh...that is what the dog who LOST the mock fight does and the winner is the boss now) or all this other stuff - but your puppy didn't read those books!



Step One: Learn to use your voice. Most people either let their voice slide up in register or they sound futile and weak. You want to deepen your voice and sound like a drill sergeant or a very stern study hall monitor depending upon the age and breed of dog. The word NO is basic to doggy manners (and people too.). The deep sound mimics the rumble/growl of the top dog.

Step Two: Do what the leader would does physically (well, mimic it - biting him wouldn't be fun.)

When he nips at you, roar NO in a deep voice, grab him by the collar or back of the neck, push him down and hold him on the ground and as you are doing that and snap your fingers on the end of his nose or slap his nose with your fingers. While you pin him down and get his nose, lean over him and keep saying BAD BAD BAD - do NOT let your voice slide up, make it deep. Make him look at you and keep eye contact â make your face stern and frown as you get after him.,

Step Three: when you let him up, you relax your voice and face and say "okay, now be nice" and let him come back over and get petted. (That is the postive part.) The more he settles down and gets petted without nipping, the happier your voice gets.

Get after him about EVERY SINGLE TIME - you must be 100% consistent.


Now when he comes over and snuggles and licks and doesn't nip, he always gets "What a sweetie", rub, pet, cuddle, and use a smile (they do watch your face â more than most people realize). And guess what? That is exactly how dogs express approval of each other!


JUMPING


Now there are methods for larger puppies/dogs who think they are a football player going in for a body block, but this a little one yet.


She is small enough to deal with more easily (okay - small is relative - my one dog outweighs me by 20 lbs or so - bit jaundiced on size.) When she jumps up, get your hands on her shoulders with your palms on her chest. Push her back and down and do that stern NO - BAD. Hold her on all four feet - talk to her calmly and soothingly "There, now settle, good punkin, just settle down..easy" and as she stays off you (and no biting either) , she gets pets and stroked - even gets a tummy scratch. The longer she styas off and doesn't try agian, the warmer your voice - you take your voice gradually back up to the "happy voice" so as not to get her all excited again.

Keep repeating it. She will clue in quite quickly though she will have times she forgets in wild exuberance (puppies are like that - mine all very quickly pick up on the phrase "Excuse me -and what do you think you are doing" drawled in the frigid tones of a VIctorian dowager - "we are not amused."

Why does my dashound stink?

RUFAUXREAL

Just got her yesterday - 7 weeks old. Bathed her, but she still stinks. Also, which mini-dashound makes best pet: male or female? When will she stop crying all night? Any other info will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Answer
Actually Dachshunds are known for having a distinctive body odor (read: "distinctive". Stinkiness is in the nose of the beholder. But they DO have their own odor.) Even my Dachshund-MIX does. I put a nicely-scented conditioner on her after I bathe her.

At 7 wks old she was at least a week too young to leave the mother. But you've already gotten her. Give her a few days to get used to her new home. At her age she will actually be sleeping quite a bit but you should get up at least once during the night to let her toilet. Then let her play a little bit, give her water and a little food, and she should be tired enough to go back to sleep. It will only be a short time before she sleeps all night.

I have two dogs and crate them both at night or while I work. I go home at lunch to let them out. They also have comfy doggy beds to lounge in. The Dachshund-mix loves doggy beds but she also retreats to the quiet, den-like space of her crate at various times. For a small dog in a bustling household, it is the perfect place to get away. The hours that you can crate a young puppy is the dog's age in months plus one. They don't have control of their functions to be able stay in a crate longer than that.

Do not carry her outside to go potty. She should either walk on her own, or be leashed; otherwise, she will learn to wait around to be picked up. Be vigilant now, take her out frequently so she knows that the place to eliminate is outside, tell her "good girl" when she does it right, and you won't have housetraining problems later.

A Dachshund needs effective leadership and firm handling, but patience as well. Use positive reinforcement; harsh treatment will cause them to become fearful. Dachshunds are very food-motivated but use their regular dry food or small, broken bits of treats for training because, if overfed, they gain weight easily.

"This little dog needs an owner who understands how to be his pack leader or he will take over the house, attempting to train the owner rather than allow the opposite. If the dog is allowed to take over, many behavior problems will arise..."
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/dachshund.htm

A distinctive doggy odor, especially if the anal glands accidentally get expressed through over excitement or fear (not a pleasant experience)
http://www.dachworld.com/thetypicaldachshund.htm

The smooth coat Dachshunds have a very distinctive dog odor.
http://www.gopetsamerica.com/dachshund/dachshund.aspx

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