Designer Dog Crate --- Quick 10 Points !!!!?

bonner

I have searched everywhere and can not find a dog crate that isn't just ugly black or silver criss-cross wire.

I saw one once at the Pets Pajamas store in Arkron Ohio that was white wires that formed little flowers -- sooo charming! So I know they have to be out there.

Can anyone tell me where to look to find something more stylish for my puppy (and apartment) ??

THANKS!!!! :)-

Answer
I don't use crates, but I have to laugh at some of the responses you're getting. It needs to be attractive because the HUMANS are going to see it. And some humans care how attractive their furnishings are.

Just take a look around Youtube and see the filth and poverty some dog owners think is just fine to live in. (The dogs are cute enough, but look behind them and see the garbage and debris, and weeds in the yard, and ratty furniture and filthy dog dishes strewn about. ...Sad.) Some of us have nice homes, and wouldn't want the decor ruined with anything like an ugly dog crate, ugly dog dishes, bags of dog food lying about, blankets on our sofas, and on and on.

I have a custom cabinet in solid oak and walnut exclusively built for the dog food and accessories. It's lovely, and most people think it's just a lovely piece of furniture. They have no idea I had it made just to keep dog-related clutter out of sight.

I'm very proud that people visiting my home typically exclaim how beautiful and clean it is, and how good it smells. I have multiple pets. I don't live in squalour or with K-Mart furnishings. No one has to. There are lots of terrific products on the market. And with a little imagination, anything can be made.

If I were to use a crate, and had a small dog, it might be one like this:

http://www.pamperedpuppy.com/features/200407_bowhaus.php

I've seen other custom designs for end tables made into dog crates (again, for small enough dogs). I also had a custom piece of furniture built to look like a small chest of drawers, but it's really my cat's litterbox. With a hidden entrance on one end, it eliminates the whole of issue of where to put the litterbox. It's right there in the hall. I clean it every day, so there's no odour. The top drawer even provides extra storage. (The bottom two are false drawers that swing open to allow access for cleaning.)

As I said, I've never used crates. And I also have Great Danes, so any crate would have to be huge. (I guess that would mean converting an armoire, rather than end tables, huh?) ;-) In any event, good luck. No, you're not wrong to want a crate that won't be an eyesore in your home.

Has anyone used the dog crate ProSelect Empire Crate?

Trixie

Hello, In researching dog crates for my escape artist / destruction designer of a dog, I was told this is the crate to get. He is an 86 lb lab and had demolished the typical "wire" crates that are sold in Petco and Petsmart.

Have you used this crate for your dog or know someone who has this crate? Let me know if this is really a very strong crate for my lab. Thanks

Here is a link to a site that has this crate.
http://www.petedge.com/ProSelect-Empire-Cages-ZW179.pro
Wanted to add. He has already been housebroken and crate trained. The reason why I have to crate him is because he has separation anxiety when left home alone. If left home alone, it is not more than 2 hours at a time. He usually comes with me most places, but the grocery store will not accept my dog in the aisles, so he has to be safely contained so that he doesn't hurt himself or destroy the house.
Additionally, he is walked 6 - 9 times per day and exercised a lot, as it is necessary to run him several times per week.

Answer
first let me say, Monica , i have been crate traing puppies and dogs for yrs as a means to house train them and it is a wonderfull way to do so and no it is not unsafe to crate a dog if you use the proper crate...it not only is to protect them but if you have a dog who has anziety problems it will also protect them and the house....
now to your question---i have a dog who wieghs 170lbs and i am getting ready my self to get one of these cages as i also have been told they are great...my male has busted through just about every thing just to get to females that are in heat, so now i need something strong....i was told that they are very strong to with hold my dog so yours should do just fine in it as well...

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How long will my 7wk old schnoodle pup go in her crate at night?

Ali

We just recently got a female schnoodle. This is my first inside puppy so I'm new at this. We have her on a feeding schedule and take her out every 30minutes to every 1hr to try to make sure there are no accidents inside the house. She does great during the day. But when we put her in the crate at night, we wake up to pee and poop. I know that's probably normal, but I just don't want her to get use to it. I want to crate train her at night and while we are gone until she is a little more grown. Thanks for any tips or help. Oh and one more thing. I'm a clean freak so when I find her in her crate with pee and pup I want to bathe her right away but I know I can't bathe her everyday so any tips on something like that would be great. Today I just wiped her paws with baby wipe and used some freshener spray from pet store.
I'm not asking for negative comments. This is a schnauzer/poodle mix. Very popular where I am from and many other states. Also just because I have a puppy doesn't mean I have to stop being a clean person. I didn't pay a high price for her because she is a mixed breed, although her mother is a silver poodle and her dad is a party mix schnauzer with papers. Where I am from you can begin selling pups around 6-8wks and she will be 8wks old in a few days. Thank you for any HELP or TIPS. I didn't get on here to be blasted and ridiculed. Thanks.
I'm not asking for negative comments. This is a schnauzer/poodle mix. Very popular where I am from and many other states. Also just because I have a puppy doesn't mean I have to stop being a clean person. I didn't pay a high price for her because she is a mixed breed, although her mother is a silver poodle and her dad is a party mix schnauzer with papers. Where I am from you can begin selling pups around 6-8wks and she will be 8wks old in a few days. Thank you for any HELP or TIPS. I didn't get on here to be blasted and ridiculed. Thanks.
One more thing is she is a toy pup so I have her in the smallest pet taxi crate. she can stand and turn around. :)

Answer
well for a while still, considering she is too young too be legaly taken from her mom in most states and western countries, where the lower limit to seperating mom and puppy is set to 8 weeks

you should take her out around 11 pm and get up around 6 am and take her out, if your lucky in a few weeks she may be able to hold it through the nigth for 6 to 7 weeks, but it variates from puppy to puppy, bladder controll isnt as good in young animals as adults

asuming this is a mix between one of the smaller poodles and schnauzers, but basically if you bougth a designer mutt the likelyhood is it comes from a mill or otherwise irresponsible breeder, you got no idea of what follow up it have from before or which genetics

and you need to realise that with some dogs they have issue with holding it for more the 6-8 hours through nigth till they are fully grown, so dont expect her to sleep long nigths, take her out late and up early

a puppy is a lot like a baby in amount of work, something many people dont realise when geting one..its not that easy to raise a puppy, the only upside is it do grow up faster then a human baby

put some newspaper in part of the crate, but with her background she likely have an established bad habit of going wherever she is when she need to go, so it may take some time to get her used too not doing that, but basic gist seperate the crate in two halves, one with paper and one with blanket, and make sure to change blankets thats been soiled so she dont smell pee there and keep going, and make sure to clean the botom under the blanket well, dogs smell better then us, if it smell like a toilet why shouldnt she treat it like one?

have you had her to the vet yet, if not if i were you i would to get a check up on her health as with designer mutts the breeders rarely have, so it really is nesicary to get a one over with them so you dont have something untreated in the dog either...just as a general added tip, and btw as i know some take it negative i dont see a mutt as a negative, it is just a terminology for a mix breed dog, and they can be excelent dogs, but you need to be extra causious when you got one from someone who tried to sell it as a 'breed' because they are often in it for the money and will cut costs everywhere they can to make as much money as posible, which means its often bad breeding and no health care involved...which isnt the puppys fault though, but i know people who have waited too long and the dogs had diseases in them and they end up loosing the dog or paying quite a bit in vet bills to save them...so its money well spent to get a check up on this puppy

To older dog owners: What has changed with dog training, tools used to train and how dogs should be raised?

~Julie~

My grandma came to visit and she kept commenting how cruel dog crates are, how they never used them back then and how she can housetrain a dog well without the use of a crate. She also commented on how gentle leaders are rediculous and how they never existed back then either (we use one for when my dog goes to the shelter for play groups since metal/choke/prong collars are not allowed, otherwise we use a prong and sometimes choke chain) So i'm just curious, what has changed in the dog world? What are your opinions on the way it is now and how it was(on dogs, not the whole world)? Also, please don't think i'm trying to insult your age, i'm just curious!

Answer
HUGE changes in my lifetime.

40 plus years ago...?

If kids and dogs were naughty, they got smacked, no one thought anything of it.

Chokers were a REQUIREMENT at dog training classes, as were hard corrections where necessary.
If your dog needed a prong for you to hold it safely - You used one.
But mostly everyone only used either a flat collar or choker. They were your 2 choices.

Treats were not used in training class. Ever.
Dogs did as they were told because they had to, not because they got a treat.

Halters were for horses.
Harnesses were for horses pulling carts or sled dogs.

Dogs frequently roamed the streets, having a great time. No one thought much of it, so long as they stayed out of trouble.
If it attacked someone, or chased livestock. It was shot. End of story.

As a result dogs were usually 'well exercised', and slept when they got home, resulting in less neurotic behavioural issues.
(I am NOT suggesting it is advisable to allow your dog out to 'roam the neighbourhood', but I AM implying that many 'problems' people have with their dogs ARE purely as a result of lack of exercise and stimulation).

If a dog had temperament problems that were deemed dangerous.
It was usually shot or put to sleep.
This is because human/childrens lives were deemed more important than the dogs.
No risk was worth it and there were no "behaviouralists" to go to.

People didn't dress their dogs in clothes.

Dogs walked on the ground (sometimes even on lead!) and were never carried in hand bags.

There was no such thing as "poo bags".

If you wanted your dog to have a treat. You gave it a raw bone. Yum!
ALL dogs ate raw meat and bones. Everyone knew that fact.
This was because they are decended from carnivores/wolves.
No one EVER suggested differently.
Even slightly stinky old raw meat at the back of the fridge was usually deamed 'ok' to feed (again, I am not saying this was necessarily a good thing).
Salmonella was what humans got, if they ate old meat.

Dogs were always fed the house hold scraps (anything the dogs wouldn't eat went to the chooks).

Cooked bones, even back in the 70s, had some suspician regarding feeding them...
But you usually fed them anyway, because they loved them.
You stopped this practice only when your (or a dog you knew) died from bowel impaction/purforation.

Dogs were NEVER fed a vegetarian diet!
WTF?
This is because, it never occurred to anyone NOT to feed a carnivorous animal meat.
Just as it never occured to anyone to feed their cows or horses a meat based diet.

Most peoples dogs lived outside, not in the house.

There have been so many changes over the years.
Some subtle, some not.
Some for the better, some not.

But one things for sure, kids and dogs were better behaved back then.
I am not saying that makes the old methods right.
I am just sayin...

EDIT:
I nearly forgot!!
There were no computers and no internet, and no Yahoo Q&A to seek advice from.
Generally, if you had a problem, you asked someone OLD who had owned lots of dogs and had a lifetime of experience, OR you asked a vet.

Also there was no such things as "Designer Dogs".
Dogs were either purebred or mutts/mongrels.
Neither was thought of as 'better' than the other.
Each dog was judged on its own merits.

No one had ever heard of a "Teacup" dog.
If you wanted a really small dog, you got a Chihuahua or the like.

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To older dog owners: What has changed with dog training, tools used to train and how dogs should be raised?

~Julie~

My grandma came to visit and she kept commenting how cruel dog crates are, how they never used them back then and how she can housetrain a dog well without the use of a crate. She also commented on how gentle leaders are rediculous and how they never existed back then either (we use one for when my dog goes to the shelter for play groups since metal/choke/prong collars are not allowed, otherwise we use a prong and sometimes choke chain) So i'm just curious, what has changed in the dog world? What are your opinions on the way it is now and how it was(on dogs, not the whole world)? Also, please don't think i'm trying to insult your age, i'm just curious!

Answer
HUGE changes in my lifetime.

40 plus years ago...?

If kids and dogs were naughty, they got smacked, no one thought anything of it.

Chokers were a REQUIREMENT at dog training classes, as were hard corrections where necessary.
If your dog needed a prong for you to hold it safely - You used one.
But mostly everyone only used either a flat collar or choker. They were your 2 choices.

Treats were not used in training class. Ever.
Dogs did as they were told because they had to, not because they got a treat.

Halters were for horses.
Harnesses were for horses pulling carts or sled dogs.

Dogs frequently roamed the streets, having a great time. No one thought much of it, so long as they stayed out of trouble.
If it attacked someone, or chased livestock. It was shot. End of story.

As a result dogs were usually 'well exercised', and slept when they got home, resulting in less neurotic behavioural issues.
(I am NOT suggesting it is advisable to allow your dog out to 'roam the neighbourhood', but I AM implying that many 'problems' people have with their dogs ARE purely as a result of lack of exercise and stimulation).

If a dog had temperament problems that were deemed dangerous.
It was usually shot or put to sleep.
This is because human/childrens lives were deemed more important than the dogs.
No risk was worth it and there were no "behaviouralists" to go to.

People didn't dress their dogs in clothes.

Dogs walked on the ground (sometimes even on lead!) and were never carried in hand bags.

There was no such thing as "poo bags".

If you wanted your dog to have a treat. You gave it a raw bone. Yum!
ALL dogs ate raw meat and bones. Everyone knew that fact.
This was because they are decended from carnivores/wolves.
No one EVER suggested differently.
Even slightly stinky old raw meat at the back of the fridge was usually deamed 'ok' to feed (again, I am not saying this was necessarily a good thing).
Salmonella was what humans got, if they ate old meat.

Dogs were always fed the house hold scraps (anything the dogs wouldn't eat went to the chooks).

Cooked bones, even back in the 70s, had some suspician regarding feeding them...
But you usually fed them anyway, because they loved them.
You stopped this practice only when your (or a dog you knew) died from bowel impaction/purforation.

Dogs were NEVER fed a vegetarian diet!
WTF?
This is because, it never occurred to anyone NOT to feed a carnivorous animal meat.
Just as it never occured to anyone to feed their cows or horses a meat based diet.

Most peoples dogs lived outside, not in the house.

There have been so many changes over the years.
Some subtle, some not.
Some for the better, some not.

But one things for sure, kids and dogs were better behaved back then.
I am not saying that makes the old methods right.
I am just sayin...

EDIT:
I nearly forgot!!
There were no computers and no internet, and no Yahoo Q&A to seek advice from.
Generally, if you had a problem, you asked someone OLD who had owned lots of dogs and had a lifetime of experience, OR you asked a vet.

Also there was no such things as "Designer Dogs".
Dogs were either purebred or mutts/mongrels.
Neither was thought of as 'better' than the other.
Each dog was judged on its own merits.

No one had ever heard of a "Teacup" dog.
If you wanted a really small dog, you got a Chihuahua or the like.

Is the irish terrier dog a health breed?

taffy

Is the irish terrier dog a health breed or not?
If not a health breed please tell me what the health issue are.
Thanks

Answer
All dogs HAVE health problems regardless, NO dog is going to be healthy 100% of the time for all it life. Mutts, Purebred, and Designer dogs(Mutts bred for PROFIT)

Irish Terrier-25-27lbs
Coat
The Irish Terrier is a double coat breed. The outer coat is wiry and dense, fits closely to the body, and has a broken appearance. The under coat is fine and soft in texture. The color of the coat comes in solid wheaten, red wheaten, bright red, and golden red. This breed sheds little to no hair.

Overview
Originating in Ireland during the 1700s, the Irish Terrier is one of the oldest Terrier breeds. An adept hunter and exterminator of den animals, this breed also served as a wartime messenger and retriever. They were never favored by aristocracy, but were extremely valuable to the Irish farmer for their work ethic, guarding abilities, and companionship.

Character
The Irish Terrier is medium in size and well balanced. They are graceful, active, and have a proud and majestic appearance. This breed is often referred to as a daredevil. Irish Terriers have great strength and courage will heedlessly fight any foe.

Temperament
A bold, reckless, and spirited breed, the Irish Terrier is also adventurous and hot-tempered. They are loyal, devoted, and affectionate to their family. This breed is very playful and is best suited for homes with older considerate children. Irish Terriers are combative with other dogs and do not do well with other household pets. They are extremely protective of their family, home, and territory and make excellent guard dogs. The Irish Terrier is not recommended for the novice, sedentary, or inexperienced dog owner.

Care
The Irish Terrier requires regular brushing with a stiff bristle brush to minimize shedding and remove dead hair. Bathing should only be done when absolutely necessary using a mild shampoo to preserve the integrity of the coat. The Irish Terrier is a relatively healthy breed although some are prone to hypothyroid conditions.

Training
The Irish Terrier is quite intelligent but may be willful and difficult to housebreak. The crate training method is recommended. Intense early socialization and obedience are crucial for this breed. They do not respond to harsh or heavy-handed methods. Training the Irish Terrier must be done with firmness, fairness, consistency, respect, and commitment. They excel in hunting, retrieving, guarding and tracking as well as police and military work.

Activity
This breed is highly active and needs regular exercise. They thrive on family play sessions, securely leashed walks, and romping and running in a safely enclosed space. The Irish Terrier does not do well if left alone indoors or outdoors for an extended period of time. Without adequate stimulation and attention they become lonely, bored, and will become destructive. The Irish Terrier will do okay in an apartment dwelling provided they are given sufficient exercise.

Health issues; Relatively healthy breed, but incidences of hyperthyroidism,cataracts, inappropriate aggression,congenital deafness, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA),

TCA Breeder Referral
The ITCA provides a Breeder Referral Service and Puppy Availability Information for people who want to know about Irish Terriers.

Coordinator Debra Rybacki (irishterrier416@sbcglobal.net> )

Phone: (630) 420-2271
phone calls preferred
Our Coordinator is in contact with Member Breeders who have puppies planned or available for sale, and who may also know of older dogs needing a special home.

Expect to be encouraged to visit an Irish Terrier owner (with all members of your household) so that you may experience interaction with the breed in its home environment. This visit should help you determine if the size, temperament, and activity level are what you had in mind.

Through our Coordinator, you can expect responses to general questions concerning the breed and to be directed to specific breeders. However, it is the breederâs responsibility to help you determine if this breed is right for you and to answer any specific questions you may have.

Our Breed Referral Coordinator will not be able to quote prices that breeders may set for their Irish. Youâll need to speak directly to individual breeders for this important information.
http://www.itca.info/itcabreederef.htm

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What size crate do I need for a Doberman Pinscher?

dog crates designer image

Misty_00

Hi! I am currently crate training my puppy, and while the crate that I am using now is great (we were given it as a hand-me-down), I am starting to see that my pup will most likely outgrow it in the next 3 weeks. He is a purebred Doberman, and I am starting to shop for crates online. Can anyone reccomend any brands (that are durable) or sizes that would be good for this breed? Online, crates are listed by inches (not small, med, or large), so I am trying to decipher the sizes to make sure that I don't purchase one that is not too small or too big.

Answer
HI, We crate trained our dog and was able to buy at the petstore one that has an expansion capability. While she was growing we could adjust her kennel so she didn't have too much room and could be trained. If it is too big then they will go potty in it and not learn how to use the crate beneficially. See if your local store has one that can be adjusted for her size or buy one that will be for her recommended size and block it off inside to allow for turnaround room and keep moving the divider as your pup grows!
Here is some more specific info on doberman pinscher and crate training that is recommended:
The size of crate for Dobermans varies depending on the size of the dog (males are usually bigger). We recommend no smaller than 24W x 26"H x 32"L (or 400 size) for females and 28-30"W by 30-32"H x 36"L (or 500 size) for males.

With respect to bedding, I recommend putting an old, single layer blanket (nothing with stuffing) in the crate for your puppy. Some pups chew their bedding and an old blanket is worth less than the new $55.00 designer version of a pet bed. More often than not your puppy will rearrange the blanket into his own, comfy bed, so don't worry about folding it. I do not recommend placing ticking alarm clocks or hot water bottles in the crate. To help your new puppy feel a little more secure I recommend an old stuffed teddy bear but be sure that any button eyes and nose are removed or re-stitched securely.

I do not recommend feeding your puppy in the crate unsupervised. As well, do not provide water in the crate, as food and water will cause the puppy to have go potty. You can leave the pup with a safe toy or two and perhaps a doggy biscuit. Do not put your Doberman in the crate wearing a collar, or put rawhide, pig's ears or squeaky toys inside. Remember, you want him to be safe.

For how many hours and until what age are Dobermans crated?

When you first get your new puppy he will be 8-12 weeks of age. At this age it is advisable to have your pup in the crate for no longer than about three hours before letting him out to relieve himself, have a little play and a cuddle. Once your pup reaches 12-16 weeks, about four hours is the longest you will want to crate him. It is not advisable to leave your dog in his crate for longer than 4 hours regardless of age once your get past the 16 week mark. Should you find you must leave your pup for longer than this, then be kind and have a neighbor or relative come in and let your puppy out and spend a little time with him.

There is no exact age when your pup will miraculously be able to be left loose in the house unsupervised. Each dog is different. Personally, I would continue with your crate routine until your dog is six months old. At this time you can "test" the dog. Leave him out for very short periods of time when you are preoccupied. Watch what he does. Then increase the time spent out until he stays out while you are sleeping. If he shows himself trustworthy, then you can begin to "test" him when you go out. Only ten minutes at first. Then an hour, then two or three. Do not rush to getting your dog "crate-free" as bad habits can still be formed.

Hope this is what you were looking for and best of luck to you and your new pup!

What do you think about dog car seat and dog carrier bags?

Sb19

I'ver never seen these things til I got a dog.

Answer
Don't get me going on purse puppies as I call them. Dogs unless they are disabled should walk! Even many disabled dogs have devices made so as they can walk.

I do agree with devices to secure a dog in a car, but then again I just use a secured crate. No need for these special "designer" type things.

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