Can you get a dog crate with no metal?

anjafaren

I have an escape artist husky who needs to be crate trained but he previously broke a tooth on a metal crate so I need a crate with nothing he can hurt himself on should he get the urge to try to tear it apart. Obviously a soft crate is not going to work. Can you get plexiglass crates or??? and where? Apprectiate any ideas!

Answer
there are plastic crates.. but I've only seen smaller crates that have plastic doors.. most of the large crates have metal doors, perhaps look for one that has a small enough grid tho that he cant try to chew on the crate.


I suppose you could have a plexiglass crate custom made too.. but it will cost you.

Advice for crate training 8 month puppy?

Q. Do you think its too late to crate train my 8 month old Neapolitan Mastiff??

When I first got him he would just cry and cry and cry, so I just let him sleep next to me on the floor. But he gets up in the middle of the night and start playing with whatever he can find. So he's been sleeping outside, but don't worry he has a big back yard and a garage that he has axcess to at anytime of the night, and a big soft mattress to sleep on. But winter is just around the corner, and I don't want him freezing at night. So do you think its still possible to crate train? And if so, whats the best way going about this???

And if you think its too late to crate train, what should I do to get him to sleep at night? I walk and play with him every day. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Answer
Dogs like small, enclosed spaces because of the security it offers them. Crating is not jailing your dog, and the crate should never be used for punishment. Instead, it draws on your dogâs preference for small spaces and allows you an extra measure of control over your dog. If you practice preventative training, your dog will spend time in the crate when you arenât around to set boundaries.

One benefit of a crate is in potty training. Dogs try not to go to the bathroom where they sleep. If you keep your dog in a crate when youâre not together during potty training, your dog will try to hold it until you let him out and take him outside. Your job is to keep a reasonable schedule with plenty of chances to play and eliminate.

Choosing a Crate
Choose the right size crate for your dog. Your dog should have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. Anything bigger and he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other.

If you have a puppy that will grow into a big dog, you will either need two crates of different sizes or a crate with a divider that you can move as your puppy grows.

If your dog is past the chewing stage, make the crate comfortable with a blanket or pad. You want the crate to be a place your dog wants to spend time but you wonât want him to spend his time ripping up bedding. Some pups never chew bedding, others do. Never use carpeting or anything in the crate that could be dangerous if swallowed.

Practicing Crate Training
Introduce your dog to the crate in a low-pressure situation, not when youâre about to leave. Leave the door open and let your dog explore.

Remove all collars before you crate your puppy.

If your pup is frightened by the noise of a metal crate on a hard floor, put a towel or mat underneath the crate to muffle noise and prevent slipping.

Toss a treat â ideally a kibble of food â into the crate, then use a simple word like âkennelâ to get your dog to enter.

Praise your dog and close the door. Open it after a few moments.

Slowly increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed.

Donât open the door because your dog whines. It will only teach him to whine more.

A general rule for determining how long your puppy can be confined is one hour for every month that your puppy is old, plus one hour. Most three-month old puppies can stay in for four hours.

Do NOT crate your dog for more than eight hours. It is unfair to leave the dog without a chance to eliminate or exercise any longer than that.

The more confinement your dog has to cope with, the more exercise he needs daily. Crating is a tool that should never be used to avoid training, exercise and spending time with your best buddy.

Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so he can relieve himself. And so the reason for the trip is clear, always take your puppy on a leash to the same place.

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Outdoor kennel question?

David A

So I have been reading about siberian huskies for a few years and have finally decided to get one.But I still have one thing I need to know I plan on building a large outdoor kennel for him so he can stay in it while I am at school.What is the best way to keep him in it I dont want him escaping I know they are excellent diggers so aany tips for that?
Thanks everyone for your help.is chainlink fence a good thing to make it out of?
I am rescuing a older siberian husky

Answer
My outdoor kennel is chain link fencing, it works quite well. I also have pea gravel as substrate. LOVE it. So easy to clean up.

Just putting it out there, if you get a small puppy, I would be very cautious at how long you leave the pup out there

EDIT: Good for you. An older dog will do fine outdoors for a few hours. Make sure there is shelter and be cautious during warmer weather. Sibes are double coated breeds and can easily get overheated. Good luck with your new dog

dogs and outdoor kennel?

Melissa

i have two dogs ages 1 1/2 and 1 and 4 months..the one is a beagle the other a lab/boxer, they have been indoor dogs since they were born. My fiance is going to kuwait for 5 months and i wont be able to keep the apartment we have so i will have to go back to live with my parents, we dont want to give the dogs away and my parents already have 2 dogs so we were going to build them an outdoor kennel...any suggestions on how big it should be and how well they would adapt? my bf will be leaving from end of june to the begining of november. i really dont want to do this to them but there is nothing really else we can do..help please!!
IDK doesnt help jerk!
Thanks Kelly that works well!!!!!!!!!!

Answer
Here is how we have ours...
The total kennel for 2 dogs is 6X12 - 6X6 is inside the barn & 6X6 is outside the barn. When you make the kennel (there are 6X6 panels you can get just for that purpose:) make sure there is enough shade to cover during the day & somewhere like a doghouse for them to sleep. They should have enough room to play & and should be let out as much as humanly possible when you are home. Good luck!

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Seriously intimidating and aggressive dog!?

Melinda

2 weeks ago I decided to adopt a 9 month old neutered Pitbull x Whippet from my local animal shelter as he was only 4 hours away from euthanasia. I took one look at Boo and fell inlove with him. He was so sweet and got along with my 2 year old spayed Border Collie mix (also adopted from same shelter) and my 6 year old spayed Dalmatian x Rottie (adopted from same shelter). Anyway, his temperament description sounded great (eg. very loving, sweet and playful puppy..., etc.).

The first few days were tough. He didn't get along with Daisy (BC mix) or Jill (Dal x) and he hid in his crate for the first 2 days STRAIGHT. I have a feeling he may have "snapped".

2 weeks later and after properly introducing him to my pack of dogs, he snarls at them, barks every minute, leaps and dominates them etc. and has even tried to aggressively bite my 13 year old cousin. I took him to my vet and they recommeded an at-home dog trainer who did no good. Boo hated him at first sight and (more to come)...
and growled at the trainer throughout the $70, 1 1/2 hour training session. Half way through the session, Boo snapped and attempted to bite the trainer (he was muzzled). I decided not to allow the trainer to come back. The adoption place had told me that he needed thorough socialization with people as he had been abused, negletced etc. at his old home. I have found this near impossible! I take him for walks and as he looks so much like a Pit, nobody wants to be around him. My family was strongly against me getting a Pitbull mix as my grandfather had been attacked by one over 12 years ago so they won't come over to see him.

It's so difficult with Boo. I don't know what to do. Has ANYBODY got any helpful suggestions? I have considered euthanasia but I'm the one that SAVED him from euthanasia - I don't want to have to put my pretty boy down. Boo is fine with me and is quite happy to sleep at the end of my bed or snuggle on the couch. I feel like I'm neglecting my other dogs for him!
I am willing to spend as much money (within reason) it takes to help Boo. I am up for almost any HUMANE (eg. NO shock collars, NO abuse etc.) ways to train and socialize him.

He KIND OF gets along with my sisters' 5 1/2 year old Labrador but will still snarl at him.

Answer
I hope you have lots of time on your hands and the energy to stay on this dog 24/7 because for awhile that's what you're going to need to do
This dog was not properly introduced to your other dogs or he'd not have hidden in his crate for 2 days and he'd not be acting this way now.So start over.
Hopefully this dog knows how to sit and stay.If not teach him immediately without your girls around.Whenever they're together you'll need to be close-by to play referree.When you catch him so much as thinking about lunging at your other dogs you need to grab him and sit him down until he's calm.You'll know a second before he does it by watching him.He'll stop and stare first then the ears will go back.When you notice him looking at the other dog redirect his attention immediately by saying his name and telling him to sit.Grab hold of his neck if necessary and force him on his side while you hold him.Make him lay there until he calms down.You'll see it happening his breathing will slow.Then you need to call the other dogs in and hopefully they'll smell him.Make him stay in that position while you're holding him.stroke him occasionally and talk to him softly as well as the other dogs.When you let him up if he tries again put him back in the position holding his neck.
When you introduced them your girls should have been sitting and very calm.You should have made him sit until you noticed he was in a calm state before you allowed them to check each other out.He's calm when he's looking around and his breathing is slow rather than focusing on the other dogs.
When someone comes to your home you put the dog in another room before you open the door.Then you explain the dogs problems and that your visitors are not to look directly at him,try to touch him or speak to him.Let him come to them and check them out first.They are to sit in a chair and act naturally.No sudden movements or yelling.Then let the dog out he may snarl but he'll go smell the visitor and seeing no threat walk away.But he'll stay close and watch every movement.The use of a leash is most helpful here.
This dog is a x of 2 breeds that need a whole lot of exercise and mental stimulation.Take him for a good 3 mile off leash romp.If you can't trust him to come when called then you need to attach at least a 25 ft.rope to him and let him roam without going too far.This is also helpful at the dog park when other dogs are present.When you see anyone on walks and you notice him go into stalk mode make him sit and keep his attention focused on you.Get him a prong collar and don't be afraid to give it a good jerk whenever you notice his attentions gone elsewhere.He's not getting hurt by the collar.
3 good walks or off-leash runs a day will calm him down quickly.A tired dog won't try to bite or dominate.Don't foolishly think that whatever exercise he gets in your yard will be enough.
Good luck.I'd invest in a good training manual if I were you.You're going to need to keep this dog active and entertained and not be afraid to dole out the discipline before he has a chance to act on his impulses.He's the only male and a young cocky one at that so it'll be natural for him to try to dominate your females.Don't let him.It's up to you to establish rank.You're the pack leader not him.
It's going to be awhile before you can trust this dog around your other ones so try to keep them seperated when you cannot supervise.And don't worry about his feelings when you seperate them.He needs a little alone time.Put him in a room with a kong stuffed with peanut butter and he'll have a ball all by himself while your other dogs get some much needed attention.

Tips on crate training my 2 year old golden to not panic in the dog crate once I close the door.?

jackson

I will be flying with my 2 year old golden in one month (6 hour flight) no other option. I have been crate training in preparation for this. He is not afraid to go into the crate, but when I close the gate after a couple of minutes he begins to appear to start to panic. Drooling excessively, licking on the gate, whining and barking a little and not lying down. I've been doing this for a week (minutes at first and leaving and now up to 30 minutes), but he is the same. I am not suppose to give him a sedative when he flys, but I am concerned he is going to injure himself or have a heart attack. I leave the crate in the room and the door open and he goes in and out (but never stays in long) on his own. So he is not afraid of the crate - just being locked in I guess??? I'm confused - any help would be so appreciated! Thanks.

Answer
Most dogs do this at first when they are learning... For at least a few days, take the door off. Or atleast do not close it. The dog needs to know the crate is his "safe place" and his den. When you are home from work, practice for a very long time... Lure him in with a treat.. as soon as all 4 feet are in the crate and reward, reward, reward. Be super happy and clap your hands, give the dog tons of positive attention. Keep doing this over and over... with the door not shut. During this time, do not give him treats at any other time other then during this training. After a week, start closing the door and leave him in there for just a few mintues at a time. Do the same thing.. treat lure.. when he comes out after the door is opened, reward reward reward... The dog will get it, and realize that this is a happy place.. not a scary place. Aswell mentioned above keep a Kong or other chew toys to keep the dog busy.
I used an item from the health food store called "Rescue Remedy", it is a liquid you can put in thier water and it will calm them down. My neighbor whom rescues dogs uses it all the time when she picks up a new dog. It just calms then down naturally without sedation... Try it a few times before you actually go.

Good luck I am sure with the above technique the dog will Love his crate!!

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How much for shipping a dog by air?

Ramona

I have an 86 lb dog that i need to ship from Oklahoma City, OK to Milwaukee, WI by air. How much would that cost and please try to find it cheap. I have looked and i cant find anything!
its a big golden retriever

Answer
CALL!!!!!!!!!!
All airlines have free 800 numbers-ask the pros!

All charge by size of crate *&* weight of crate & contents. Add crate price,taxes,health cert,2 coop-cups....

NOT "cheap".....that's impossible.


Sorry"Ray"...triple that,at least.

Can you bring an empty dog crate as check-in luggage on an airline?

nicksmycoa

My husband and I just moved to Milwaukee from Boston and were looking to buy another puppy. Our puppy crate was left at home in ma and I will be flying home this week. Instead of buying a new one when I get back to Milwaukee, I was wondering if i could bring the old one back with me on the plane.

Answer
You are probably better off shipping it UPS or USPS parcel post

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what is the smallest breed of dog?

sdmelissa3

Answer
The smallest dog recognized by the American Kennel Club is the Chihuahua (tea cup Chihuahua is not recognized by the AKC).
Not only is the Chihuahua the smallest breed of dog in the world, it's the only "natural" toy breed. That means that the Chihuahua is naturally small and, unlike toy poodles and other small dogs, it hasn't been purposefully bred to be a smaller version of a larger breed.

Small dogs?

i've been looking for a type of dog that is small and dosent require much grooming.

Answer
So many suggestions for High Maintenance groom dogs! 1/2 of your responders suggested dogs that I groom all the time!

Pass on:
Yorkies, Shih Tzu, Lhasa's, Westies, Long Coat Doxie, Bichons, Poodles and mixes of these breeds! They all require regular grooming!

Pugs: Shed like snow storms! Pass!

Sheltie: Crap shoot, some have thin coats that require low maintenance, Most have heavy double coats that were bred for thickness to protect the dog from extreme weather. Lots of regular brush outs required, if not given, they end up matted up and gross.

5 suggestions: smooth coat Chihuahuas and Min Pins for low maintenance, but they can be delicate so you must protect them from injury. The same with Italian Greyhounds but they are rare and so costly. They just require regular nail trims as ALL dogs do. They can have a regular bath to keep the low shedding down. Anything from once every couple of weeks to once every 3 months. Min Pins can be unfriendly and suspicious of people. There are mini smooth coat Doxies but because of the elongated back, they can develop back problems. My last suggestion is the Boston Terrier. Very smooth coat, playful, loving and less delicate than the first four and usually a lot less nervous. They need about the same amount of grooming as the other four.

Remember ALL pure breeds are prone to breed specific ailments and inherited health problems. You could go to your local shelter and search the kennels for a smaller, older pup or dog that has the type of fur that is short like these pure breeds above, real smooth.

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Hoping to fly my dog from Tampa to Dallas- help?

:)

I have never flown with my dog before, but plan on doing so in the next few weeks. I am flying from Tampa to Dallas, and have a Shiba Inu / Chow mix that weighs about 55-60 lbs. I was planning on finding a crate that fits under a window seat for Southwest Airlines, which is 19"L x 14"W x 8.25"H.
What I am wondering is, will a dog of her weight fit in a crate of that size? She's a medium sized dog and can be easily picked up, but am worried that I will buy the crate and then find out she does not fit. HELP!

Answer
a 55 lb dog will not be allowed in the cabin, only in cargo. I believe the weight limit for in cabin is like 15 maybe 20 pounds, if that.

no crate that a dog that size could fit in will ever fit under a seat. any animal must be able to stand up and turn around completely. the smallest pet carriers are the ones that fit. nothing larger.

Why can the city take my dog with no proof!!?

jr_1812

Today a guy was walking by my business and my dog got loose somehow and started barking at some guy. The guy started yelling for me to get my dog I ran outside and my dog was far from the guy. I called my dog and he came. I put him in his crate and the guy said your dog scratched me and asked for a bandaid. The guy left and a few hours later a city of Dallas Animal control came and said he needed to take my dog because the got a call that my dog bit someone. I told him I wasnt going to release my dog cops got there and said that I would go to jail if I didn't and they would still take the dog. I asked them for proof and they said they didn't need to provide proof and that they needed to Quarntine my dog. I had proof of his rabies shots and everything. My dog has never bit anyone and he goes to the vet regularly and does well there. What can I do? There should be a law for the victim accusing my dog to show proof. This means if I don't like u and I know u have a dog I can call the city?
I live at my job Public Storage and how the dog got loose is he was tethered and I just started doing this because of breakins and High crime rate in my area. The 250 pound resistant cord broke and well my dog was walking around the front of my office. The dog is a 80lb Rottie and he has been walked around my property without a leash and ppl have petted him as well with no problems.

Answer
The one law you did break was the City's leash law. The dog was unrestrained and off your property. They can confiscate your dog for that purpose. Also, if you didn't have current dog license, they can also confiscate the dog.

The guy is lying and there will likely be some process for determining if your dog is a vicious dog, such as a hearing. You may want to ask Animal Control when the quarantine period is over and what will happen after that. Based on what your hear, you may want to consult with a lawyer.

If this guy is lying, he may also be the kind to try and sue you. Another reason to talk to attorney. An attorney can get any medical records for any treatment the guy sought and take it from there.

In the future, the best thing to do is to make sure your dog is under your control at all times.

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I need a dog crate....?

Ziamund

Hi
i need a dog crate of a min of 36" and fast :/
ive looked on:
ebay
gumtree and yahoo and nothing anything that can get to me by sunday :(

where should i look?

ps its in australia, VIC

Answer
If there is a PetStock store near you they will have crates for sale. If you look on www.dogzonline.com.au they have a classified listing for all dog stuff including crates. You could try Pure Breeds dog shop or Pet Network both based in Victoria. There are usually dog show supply seller at shows in Melbourne on most weekends, ring Dogs Vic and they can tell you where shows are being held this weekend. Good luck.

Crate or dog pen?

Tula M

Crates or pens? Which would better, most people have crates but they seem kinda small to me and would cramp my dog she is in desperate need of one and I would like to know what would be best for her.

Pen:http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-36-Exercise-Pen-Dog-Crate-Cat-Cage-Kennel_W0QQitemZ360025294890QQihZ023QQcategoryZ121851QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Crate:http://cgi.ebay.com/Wire-Dog-Crate-collapsible-17-x-24-x-20-gold-color_W0QQitemZ160210816729QQihZ006QQcategoryZ121851QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Answer
I crate trained my dog. They dont need anymore room than to stand up, lay down, and turn around...and of course have water and food.
I chose a crate over a pen for many reasons....

1.) crates are similar to wild dog dens.... it is instictive for them to want to find their own 'safe place'
2.) its easy to travel with my dog because shes used to being in a crate for a few hours at a time.
3.) it made housetraining SOOO much easier! dogs dont want to go to the bathroom where they sleep... so as soon as you take her out, take her straight outside and she'll learn quickly that shes supposed to potty outdoors

those are just a few of my reasons... but it really depends on you and your dog... if you dont plan on ever traveling with her then get a pen...otherwise go with the crate

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Have you ever used the kennel services at Disney?

Misty

We are going to WDW in early may and I'm ofcourse happy but am not sure what I will do with my dog yet. I'm am very attached to her as are many pet owners. I've read about the Kennel servies at WDW and ofcourse there are all different opinions but I'm wondering for anyone who has used their services what did you think of it?

I ofcourse would love to leave her at my house where she is most comfortable but we are going on a mother's day trip and don't have a very big family so I have no one to take care of her (and also she won't let anyone she doesn't know come into the house)

How did your dog like it?
My dog thinks she is a person! lol she likes to watch TV and she can open the porch door and she definitly has a person attitude, So I'm not sure how she will adjust to the change, she's never really been around other dogs, just maybe 2 or 3 and especially not so many at one time.
Thanks Rotten Rotts :)

Also answerer #1 I would really love to leave her at home but even when we are here she unaquivically will not let anyone in the house unless I personally answer to door lol she is very protective and with us not here I don't think it's an option at all for anyone to come to the house especially someone she doens't know
I would love to leave her at home but seriously there is NO ONE who can do it seriously this is last resort my family is going with me I have no neighbors that I trust and I only have one friend I trust to do it for me and they live 3 cities away :( But thanks for the answers

Answer
I am not sure about the WDW kennels didnt even know they had any! But we sent our oldest dog to a "doggie hotel" about 2 years ago and it was so sad :( They kept them in little kennels I cant bring myself to leave my dogs in a kennel again. We now either have someone come to our house and watch them or we take them to a friend or family members house to watch them. How ever we do keep them up to date on all of their shots that they would need to have to stay in a kennel like kennel cough and so on just incase there is some sort of emergency where we would have no choice but to leave them in a kennel. Is your dog up to date on kennel cough and distemper and so on. I would get a list of all the shots dogs should have before staying in a kennel and if its your only choice then make sure your dog has all the shots even if the kennel dosnt have a policy saying they have to. Its better to have your dog protected then have it get sick from some other dog. Also if you have to kennel you dog maybe find one that they will let you come and visit. Make sure it has a nice area that your family can take your dog to play with it and walk with it once or twice a day. I will not say that all kennels are bad there are some really good ones. It is also true that its good for your dog to go to a kennel if its a good one to be socialized and so on. The kennels like Central Bark and so on are really good they also have a doggy daycare and have lots of stuff for dogs to do. I would also see if you can get your dog a room instead of a kennel a lot of good kennels with offer this for about $5 more a day but its worth the cost for you dog to have more space and a better environment. Good luck and I hope things work out for you and your dog!

Disney World pet friendly hotels?

It's all f

Can anyone please give me some hotels ON the Disney World grounds that are pet friendly??! Answers are greatly appreciated! =)

Answer
None of the hotels on Disney property allow dogs. There are kennels located throughout Disney property where you can board your dogs. The ONLY spot that you can have your pup stay with you is in your own motorhome/trailer at the Fort Wilderness Campground. Dogs are NOT allowed in the cabins, nor are they allowed in tent camping. You have to have your own camping vehicle to have your pooch with you at the campground.

The kennels are unattended at night, which doesn't seem very safe to me. They give you a number to call in case you need to get in there, but otherwise there is no-one there. (I think worst case scenario: fire... what would happen to them?) Plus, you are responsible for taking them out for their exercise.

Just leave your pup at home with a friend, relative or monitored boarding facility... it'll be much happier and you'll rest easier, too.

EDIT: The kennel is at the Fort Wilderness Campground not the Wilderness Lodge. And although you can walk it, dogs are NOT allowed on those paths, so you would have to drive to drop him/her off. And, the Wilderness Lodge is Moderate not Deluxe.

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Looking for a large dog kennel?

Barbara Al

I live on a really big property and I have 3 medium- large indoor/outdoor dogs. When I leave during the day (never more than a couple hours) I like to leave them outside instead of locked up in the house but it's hard to do that because my grandparents operate a business in the back part of the lot and people are always coming and going. So I wanted to get a kennel or two to put the dogs in when I leave so that they they get to be outside and I don't need to worry about someone letting them out of our gate. I was looking for something in the price range of $100-300. So if anyone can point me in the direction on a decent website, I'll very grateful.
I should add, I really want to build something permanent but I have to get zoning and permits for it and that takes awhile around here. I don't need anything like that for these "pre-made" kennels because they don't consider them buildings, they consider what I ultimately want to build a building so I need permits.

Answer
Here are a couple options for you:

http://www.dogkennels.com/dog-crates/6996+6998.cfm?source=googleaw&kwid=discount%20dog%20crates&tid=exact&gclid=CMK1h4_38KwCFQSFhwodE06ILg

http://www.petco.com/N_22_136_5060/Dog-Gates-And-Doors-Gates.aspx?cm_mmc=GOOGLEPKW-_-05%3ADOG%20HOM%20CARR%20TRAIN%20EXACT-_-34-DOG_CONTAIN-GATE-_-walk%20through%20dog%20gate&gclid=CIe-o6T38KwCFewaQgodPmzmIg

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=folding+dog+crate&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=4074900715&ref=pd_sl_36e7dyyr1y_b

But make sure you get the proper size.

Thank you for being responsible caregiver to you dogs.

Good luck

Hello, Im getting a dog, any help on care, maintenance, and costs?

Hai.

i would like to know some basic expenses for a dog, although, he is adopted, so hes got shots and neutering done, some expenses for housing and food, and some ideas on training, feeding and exercises. He is a puppy, black, cross between Lab and fox terrier. basically, im a total noob at dogs, and i need to know ANYTHING & EVERYTHING :D

Answer
It's not as expensive to have a dog as may people claim, as long as you're not extravagant. There's a huge range of dog foods available ranging from really inexpensive to what you might pay for filet mignon. Purina and Pedigree make great mid-priced foods and if you buy 40-pound bags, you save a fortune over buying saller bags. You can get an airtight plastic tote for food storage in the home storage section at Wal-Mart or Target for less than $15 to keep the food fresh. My mom uses a lidded plastic garbage can for that purpose.

Since you'll probably want to crate train your dog, you can often find used crates on Craigslist.com for about half of what you'll pay at PetSmart. When my dog no longer needed her crate, I sold it locally on eBay for $45, which was half the original price (it's the biggest crate available, so don't be freaked out by the price).

Your dog will need to be walked often, especially during potty training. And puppies require lots of exercise, so the more time you can spend playing outdoors with him, the better. The last walk before bedtime should help wear him out, though he may still need to go out during the night until he's older and has better bladder control. Letting him sleep in his crate beside your bed is a good thing, since you can hear him if he cries to go outside during the night. Also, he'll know you're nearby, which will comfort him. If he cries during the night, you can put a wind-up clock into his crate with him, since the ticking mimics the sound of his mother's heartbeat. Many puppies also do well when you place an article of your clothing or a pillow case on which you've slept into the crate. Since dogs live for their people, your scent will reassure him.

Depending on where you live, you might have to keep him on heartworm preventative yearround, though many dogs in colder climates don't require this. I pay about $52 for a six-month supply of HeartGuard, though it's available at a discount at 1800petmeds.com. Your vet will advise you about which preventative is best for your dog during his annual visit for booster shots and vaccines.

In a typical year, I estimate I pay vet bills of about $300, which includes all the shots my dog needs and her heartworm preventative. There have been a few extra vet visits over the years (little injuries such as torn paw pad or swolen leg), but those are pretty rare and none has cost me more than $100. It's worth noting that my vet is an emergency clinic, so the prices are higher than they are at most veterinary offices. Ask your friends with dogs where they take their pets, since you can glean a lot of information that way.

As for housebreaking, it looks like another poster has covered that in detail! To prevent your puppy from chewing everything in sight, he should have his own toys (never an old slipper or shoe, since those will lead him to believe it's okay to chew your things) and be supervised whenever he's outside of his crate. He'll be teething for months before his adult teeth come in, so chew toys are a big help. Once he's a few months old, inquire at PetSmart or search the phone book for obedience classes. They're generally really cheap in a group setting, but will help both you and your dog learn what's expected of you both if you're to have a well-behaved dog.

Since you're new to the dog scene, ask your vet any questions you have about your new role as a dogmother. It's largely something you learn by doing, so patience and dedication are as important as any rules you'll read here. Good luck and I wish you and your dog many happy years together!

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what size crate should i buy for my puppie?

A&J

she is a labradore and will be 7-8 weeks when i get her. what size will be best for her house cage and what size for cage in the car. i would use the same one but my car is small (grande punto)
sorry didnt make my self very clear but i want a crate for the house that will last all her life incase i ever have to use it when shes fully grown. what size cage would you want for a fully grown lab

Answer
I have 3 labradors and my crates are 30 inches high, 42 inches long and 28 inches wide. That is for in the house. There is NO way that crate is going to fit in any car. It may fit in a 4x4 or van but not a car. Get a dog guard for the car.

2 of my labs are adults and fully grown and the 7 month old doent have much more height to gain, just basically filling out now. All 3 can actaully fit in a crate of the size I described but only for tiny amounts of time like if I run to the shops for 15 mins. If its one dog in that crate then its perfect size

I'm getting a German Shepherd, what size crate should I purchase?

Robin Slag

I'm getting a one year old German Shepherd and I'm wanting to know the size a wired crate I should get. He'll also be pairing up with my little chihuahua. MY ex's mama had a XL or a XXL and she had 2 labs and a chi size dog. I asked the owner how much he weighs but hasn't gotten back to me yet. Thank y'all!

Answer
Your best bet is 42 inches, that would give him enough room and not be cramped

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Soft Dog Crate that Exceeds 33in in Height?

Maria N

Hi, I have an English Mastiff and his current crate which is 33in is starting to be too small for him. His head rubs and his back rubs. Id prefer the cloth instead of wire because its lighter for me to carry and more portable. Can anyone help me find a portable/soft crate that is around 33-54in in height?

Answer
You mentioned that your dog's crate was starting to get too small so I am assuming he is not fully grown. The largest soft-sided dog crate I have seen was 36" inches tall. The tallest wire crate is also 36". May I suggest a soft sided dog exercise pen which is lightweight and portable at 48" tall. Good luck in your search.

what size crate for golden retriever?

j.w.

I'm about to buy a soft crate for my dogs agility classes. I was wondering what size is good. She isn't a huge golden, she weighs about 60 lbs. There are 2 sizes:
36 inches L x 24 inches W x 27 inches H
42 inches L x 28 inches W x 31 inches H
I will be moving this around a lot so I would go for the smaller one but I want her to be comfy. Thanks!

Answer
If it were up to USDA, the dog would have to have enough room to invite over all of his friends, have a BBQ, go for jog, play some frisbee, and have about 5 area codes. Here's reality:

Varikennel #100 21"x16"x15"H,
Actual CrateWeight: 7 Lb
Cats, Toy Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, Shih Tzus

Varikennel #200 27"x20"x19"H
Actual Crate Weight: 15 Lb
Beagles, Shelties, Min. Poodles, Cockers, Lhasa Apsos

Varikennel #300 32"x22"x23"H
Actual Crate Weight: 18 Lb
Springers, Border Collies, Bull Dogs

Varikennel #400 36"x24"x26"H
Actual Crate Weight: 23 Lb
Boxers, Dalmatians, Collies, Airdales, Setters, Aust. Shepherds, Dobermans

Varikennel #500 40"x27"x30"H
Actual Crate Weight: 27 Lb
Afghans, Retrievers, Pointers, Shepherds, Rottweilers

Varikennel #700 48"x32"x35"H
Actual Crate Weight: 44 Lb
Irish Wolfhounds, Newfoundlands, St. Bernards, Mastiffs, Greyhounds

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I need a dog for under 400 dollars.?

ali s

I need someone to give me a list of dog's I could get for under 400 dollars, if someone could suggest a site for me that would be great My ideal list would be around 10-15 dogs.
Oh, I don't mean dogs for sale right now, I mean dogs that are generally sold for under 400 dollars

Answer
You want a dog for under $400, not need one. A dog is not a necessity, it is a privilege, and if you can't afford a lot of money, then make sure you own all the necessities first, bedding, crate, toys, leash, look into the costs of vet bills, sterilization, training, immunisation, then have a look around for a dog. Also remember that many 'bargain' dogs are cheap because the parents where never health checked.

How do I crate-train my dog?

zoeissocoo

I have a German Shepherd Labrador Retriever Mix 5 month old puppy that is a bundle of joy, love, and energy. Unfortunately, in the mornings I have class and I can't keep him out of his kennel because he likes to get into things (crayons, pencils, and his favorite, paper towels). I really would love for him to be kennel/crate trained because I have to bathe him every time he gets out because he pees in the kennel. He also wails while inside the the kennel. Very loudly! I leave early in the mornings and he ends up waking everyone up, including neighbors. I don't want him to be in agony and I don't want my family/neighbors to get fed up with my bundle of joy. Help?
Thanks! I've tried the treats thing, but putting the blanket in the kennel also leads to him peeing on it which has him laying in an awful stench. Is there anything else you've tried?
King Les or whatever your name is, quit commenting on my stuff. You're really annoying.

Answer
Doggy people are notorious for misusing the English language.
Your question's misuse of the term "crate training" is a classic example, one FIRMLY engrained into the minds of the huge number of dog owners who don't understand dogs.

LEARN:
#1: A crate is inert, insensate - it can neither train nor be trained.
#2: Training a pooch to go into a crate is dead easy PROVIDED you don't upset the pooch by leaving the door shut longer than Pup is happy about.
#3: What you are wanting advice on is TOILET-TRAINING, pure and simple.

And from the sound of it you need either (1) a roofed security run for your pet, or (2) a safe room (no power points, no hoses, nothing Pup can destroy) thoroughly covered with layers of old newspaper.

Using a crate to toilet-train a pup is sure to result in a pup that cannot be toilet-trained until it is 8 months or older. Being shut in for longer than it can "hold on" DESTROYS the instinct we rely on to produce pups that don't mess everywhere.
Properly bred, properly reared pups have a built-in instinct to get away from their nest before piddle-pooing. Confine them to a small space so that they cannot get away from their nest works - PROVIDED someone responds to the pup's signal that it "needs to GO ! - And NOW!!!".

We cannot know whether it was your long absences that FORCED your pup to mess in her crate, or whether her BYBreeder or puppy-mill "manager" kept her in a tiny space (puppy millers want to get as many pup as possible from the amount of space they own - many of them stack crates 3 or 4 high, so that leakage from the crates above pollutes the crates below) or pet-shop staff did the damage. But she HAS learn that in her crate is the place to go toilet. It is quite possible that she now goes to her crate to mess even when she has the run of the house.

So GET RID OF HER CRATE.

Not a problem while you are home & awake, once you have learned her timing & signals for "Wanna go toilet" and can PREDICT when she needs to be carried to the designated toilet place. But when you are absent or asleep it IS a problem.
Hence the need for a LARGE area.

I have roofed security runs that are 4m/12+feet long between each gate & that run's raised sleeping box. That is plenty of room for a GSD to bounce around in to stretch its muscles, and plenty of room to be able to sleep in the open without having to lie in its piddle-poo (GSDs tend to prefer to sleep in the open so they can monitor the movements, scents, sights & sounds of their environment; but they go into a "cave" when the weather is miserable.
Before I built any runs I would use the garden shed or washhouse/laundry as the place where Pup was when I was asleep or away - just cover the lino-whatever with at least 4 layers of newsprint (from old give-away papers and newspapers).

My last pup came inside at 8½ weeks old and had the run of the house 24/7. She was paper-trained that afternoon, and so when I was asleep she trotted to where she knew the newspaper was waiting. NO "accidents". But I know how to let a pup know when I am pleased with her. (I wasn't pleased when she discovered one night that the toilet roll UNrolls - and IT GRABS YOUR LEGS!!!! So, for a few nights, the toilet door had to be shut before I went to bed.)

â Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as rescue groups, feeding, vaccinations, worming, clubs, teething, neutering, size, diseases, genetics.

â To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with them. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos in your messages.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967

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does anyone know of any boarding kennels for small dogs in the perth area?

aaron b

we need to find a boarding kennel for our little chihuahua for a stay of about 3 months. we are on a tight budget but also want a place that we can rest assured that he will be properly looked after.

Answer
The answer that you are seeking out for is that the essential habitat of a Costa Rica Dogs is arctic and green, really resembling what your standard Kiribati and Rwanda Dogs habitat is

Did anyone here had import a dog to Melbourne before?

Joy

If yes can u tell me how much did it cost u, and how long did yr dog quarantines,and which country were yr dog come from?...
Thank you!

Answer
Pets flying to Australia must enter through the Kingsford Smith Airport in Sydney, the Tullamarine Airport in Melbourne, or the Perth Airport in Perth. There are Australian pet quarantine stations located in each of these cities.

Dogs and cats transported to Australia must be microchipped. With microchipping a veterinarian injects a computer chip about the size of a grain of rice just under your pet's loose skin, between the shoulder blades. Each pet is assigned a unique ID number. The ID number is entered into an international database. Animal hospitals, shelters and humane societies can read the ID with a microchip reader. The procedure is painless and doesn't require anesthesia. It's similar to a pet getting a shot. Vets have been implanting microchips into pets for years. The microchip provides a proof of identity and the ID number is written on your pet's laboratory tests' documentation.

In addition to microchipping your pet, when you transport your cat or dog, AQIS also requires:

Rabies and vaccinations for a variety of cat and dog diseases
Blood tests such as a Rabies Neutralizing Antibody Titre Test (RNATT) - This test measures your pet's antibody response to the rabies vaccination. The date the test is performed is one of the factors that influences the amount of time your pet must stay in quarantine.
Tests and treatments against internal and external parasites
Import permit(s)
U.S.D.A. endorsed veterinarian
Government approved laboratory
Special pet carriers

Australian Pet Quarantine Facilities
Australia is free of a number of cat and dog diseases. The quarantine period allows the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Services (AQIS) to monitor your pet's health prior to release. The staff at the Australian pet quarantine stations are fully trained in pet care and in many cases have prior experience as veterinary nurses and boarding kennel attendants. Your pet is assigned to one caretaker who attends to your pet throughout their entire stay. The quarantine stations may be able to house pets of the same species from the same household together. You'll be able to visit and interact with your dog or cat during their stay in quarantine, although not on the day of arrival.

Some Restrictions on Pet Transport into Australia
Cats and dogs must be more than 6 months old at the time of export and can't be more than 6 weeks pregnant, nor suckling young.

The following dog breeds are not allowed entry into Australia:
dogo Argentino
fila Brazileiro
Japanese tosa
Pit bull terrier or American pit bull
Animal hybrids such as bengal cats or wolf crosses may not be allowed into Australia, unless there 5generations removed from there non domestic parents

Under the legislation of Environment Australia domestic/non-domestic animal hybrids eg bengal cats or wolf crosses are not eligible for import, unless they are proven to be 5th generation or more away from any pure-bred non-domestic ancestor. Please contact Wildlife Permits and Enforcement Section, Environment Australia on 02 6274 1111 for further information.

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What is a good crate for a great dane for travelling by plane?

cody k

my great dane will be about a year old when i fly and i'm looking for a crate that is suitable for a plane.. any help would be greatly appreciated
i do not drive or else i would :( and i planned on flying with him but unfortunately with his size he has to go on a seperate cargo plane. Was going to take the train so i could be with him but they do not take dogs heavier then 70lbs and i'm going half way across canada

Answer
Hello,
Great danes are huge dogs, I have one myself. They are gentle giants and the sweetest dogs in the world. Since there so big I'm guessing you need a big crate. The airline rules are that your dog needs to be able to stand up turn around, and lay down in the crate comfortably. Make sure the air lines will allow certain crates, some you can't have.
This one comes in A LOT of different colors and from the front it looks pretty big. Here are some more dog crates for your dog.
This one looks good if your great dane is a smaller one:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.gadgetgrid.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/soft-sided-portable-dog-crate.png&imgrefurl=http://www.gadgetgrid.com/2009/07/29/soft-sided-portable-dog-crate/&usg=__Y1Ak0BRRQyvmbvNU65oXctzK_fc=&h=406&w=433&sz=190&hl=en&start=11&um=1&tbnid=j6Oxf9fUM3bbfM:&tbnh=118&tbnw=126&prev=/images%3Fq%3DCool%2Bdog%2Bcrate%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7DKUS_en%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1
These ones are really neat. Make sure the plane allows them:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.trendir.com/ultra-modern/ei-crate.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.trendir.com/ultra-modern/wire-dog-crate-and-crate-cover-from-gopetdesign-eicrate.html&usg=__osoFRn147Lfo71IsBxlmZSNzkoY=&h=610&w=600&sz=112&hl=en&start=31&um=1&tbnid=47wgruLjcLBQQM:&tbnh=136&tbnw=134&prev=/images%3Fq%3DCool%2Bdog%2Bcrate%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7DKUS_en%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26um%3D1
This is $70 but it will fit your dog:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.petstuffgalore.co.uk/images/shop/product_images/809/regular_crate.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.petstuffgalore.co.uk/dog-products/car-accessories/dog-crate-large-36-x-25-x-27-inches.html&usg=___PDDE-sEDCJGe3thc6dqzil0Qx8=&h=316&w=316&sz=16&hl=en&start=33&um=1&tbnid=FA6FaA1b_Z9goM:&tbnh=117&tbnw=117&prev=/images%3Fq%3DGreat%2Bdane%2Bdog%2Bcrate%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7DKUS_en%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26um%3D1
This is really neat but it's an exersize pen. Call up the people on the plane and ask them to go on the website and see if it can go in there.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.muttmart.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/GC92262.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.muttmart.com/Octagon_Dog_Exercise_Dog_Pen_Top_SKU_GC92262.html&usg=__EyNKRPcSNDbweBH9wtFVCqz3eo0=&h=400&w=400&sz=39&hl=en&start=2&um=1&tbnid=vAxq1VLyPiy7BM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3DOctagon%2Bdog%2Bcrate%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7DKUS_en%26sa%3DX%26um%3D1

Your dog will need a few toys (If the plane allows) to play with on the long ride. This contains water and It's really cool! Be sure to ask if your dog can have it!
http://www.activedogtoys.com/squirt_ball.html
Here are some more:
http://www.activedogtoys.com/squirt_bone.html
My great dane had this. He breaks all of his toys. It took him A LOONG time to break this one!
http://www.dogtoys.com/orkajack.html
For the plane ride you should put a blanket or dog bed in the crate for your dogs conmfort. If the airlines allow it.
http://www.petdreams.com/v-32.html#
http://www.petdreams.com/v-12.html#
Good luck with your trip!

whats the best dog toy for air travel?

Melissa G

first i want to thank some of you for helping me out with my other air travel question... made me feel a bit better about my baby flying... i just read on the website that she is allowed to have one dog toy in her crate with her... she s too big so she ll be in cargo... she has major seperation anxiety (im not just naming a random disorder she really has it and to a major extent)... this scares me because i know she is just going to freal out and be so scared... of course if i didnt have to bring her i wouldnt... but im moving from CA to PA and theres no other way for us to get there... and i dont want to give her anytihng to calm down because i ve read many things saying it s dangerous during air travel. plus she has a heart mumur.. whats the worst that could happen? if she freaks out to the most whats the worse that will happen? our flight is 7 hours with one lay over. i mean once she sees me all the scare is going to go away and she ll be ok once again right? what toy will calm her?

Answer
no toy will. put a piece of clothing that you wore and havent washed when you go to the airport. I work at the airport and no toy will help the unknown sounds sights and smells of the airports. leave the clothing with your scent on it to calm her. Good Luck and may the airlines have a good day on your travels.

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Why does my dog eat his poop?

Denise Vir

Lately I've been punishing my dog for pooping on the carpet and he gets really scared. I set some pee pads for dogs on the floor for him to poop on but he avoids it. So in the night I see two poops in different spots and in the morning they're either moved on the pee pad (and it wasn't there when I saw it) or they're gone. So I'm guessing he does that because he's scared I'm going to get mad at him. I think he eats his own poop. Is it normal? How serious is it? Help!

Answer
1. Your dog might be hungry. If your dog doesn't have access to food, he might eat poop.

2. Some dogs will eat poop to clean up an area like a housekeeper. This is most likely if your dog is confined to a crate or kennel, or when he's chained up or otherwise restricted. He's taking care of his space.

3. If your dog likes to carry poop, and then eat it, it could be genetics. Some dogs have instincts to carry stuff in their mouths.

4. Your dog might be eating poop because of parasites or worms. They can suck nutrients out of your dog, driving him to eat poop. It might also leave him extra hungry because of the lack of proper fuel.

5. Your dog might be eating cat poop or other animal poop to get key nutrients and minerals not available in his own food.

6. Some dogs will simply eat poop to pass the time. Dogs will eat poop because they are bored or lonely. It can be a sign of neglect.

7. Your dog might eat poop because he's anxious, nervous or otherwise upset. Stress will drive animals to do odd things.

8. Some dogs will eat poop to hide the evidence. If you punish your dog for pooping, he might eat it to stop you from getting angry.

9. If your dog has puppies, she might eat puppy poop. This is an instinct to hide the poop from predators. Poop is evidence. Getting ride of it keeps her puppies safe.

10. Some young dogs and puppies will eat poop as a novelty. That is, they'll eat poop as an experiment. They don't know better.

11. If your dog watches you pick up poop, he might learn to do the same. This is called allelomimetic behavior. Your dog observes you and learns from you, by putting the poop in his mouth you put poop in a bag.

12. Your dog might see others dogs eating poop. From this, they learn to eat poop too.

13. Many dogs simply like the taste of poop. This obviously doesn't make sense to dog owners but that's irrelevant. Some dog like to eat it and that's that. It's warm, moist, and very much like what your dog was given as a very young puppy.

14. If your dog food lacks key nutrients, he might eat poop. Your dog is trying to get "food" with nutrients any way possible, even from his own poop.

15. Sometimes dog poop seems like dog food. This can happen when dog food is low quality and includes materials that are easily passed and not absorbed by your dog. When the dog poops, it seems to be very much like the food he just consumed!

16. In some cases, dogs will eat poop if they are given too much food. This is especially true if your dog's diet is high in fat.

17. Some dogs will eat poop to gain attention. Many dog owners get very upset when their dog eats poop, which means the dog gets attention. This is a wonderful opportunity for your dog to interact with you, although it is because of negative attention.

18. It is possible that some dogs will eat the poop of other, more dominant dogs. Your dog might be more submissive than other dogs, resulting in strange poop eating behavior. This seems to occur more in households with multiple dogs where dominance and submission is a factor. Obviously this doesn't explain much about dogs eating cat poop or other animal poop.

19. It is possible that your dog wants to eat more than one time per day. If you only feed your dog once per day, and your dog eats poop, it could be an indication they want to eat more frequently.

20. In some cases, your dog will eat poop by accident. Dogs are curious and will try to eat almost anything, including poop. Dogs explore the world through taste and smell, much more than humans.

My dog has a busted leg. What do I do?

Jesler

My dog hurt his leg and can't walk. I've thought about taking him to the vet but my parents can't because i'm leaving for vacation in a week. In that time, my dog is supposed to go to a Kennel. But he's not allowed to go if he has recently been to a vet. (the Kennel wants to make sure my dog doesn't catch anything from the vet that spreads to the other animals).

My parents have already thought about putting him down because he can't walk outside to pee or pooh, and can't move. He's hurt his leg before but it got better. I'm afraid it's much worse now. Someone please help, I don't want to have my dog put down :'(
i can't really take him to the vet because we can't move him out of the house into the car.
and he tries biting us when we go near his leg :(
and when my dog hurt his leg before, we did take him to the vet and they told us it costs $1500 for surgery to repair his leg. and then addition 6 weeks for recovery. and i'm also going to a wedding in mexico within a month that cannot be halted :( and i live in city with not many options for pet care
not gunna lie this is worst situation ever. it's not that my parents are neglecting my dog. we want to take him the vet but, but we seriously cannot move him without hurting him. and we cant really cancel the vacation because we already paid for everything and it's for my brother's soccer tournament (men's league). and there is no way i can put my dog down! he's not even that old!! :'(
my dog is 8 years old. i grew up with him when i was a small kid. the thought of putting him down does not go right with me. he's not even suffering as bad as you think. He whines to go outside, but becomes happy when i'm with him petting him. thanks for your help everyone. i'll talk to my parents tomorrow morning(it's 1:48am) and tell them about the possible options you've all given me
omg people i'm not making excuses. i have one vacation to my bro's soccer trip, and another in august for my sister's wedding. and for fuck sakes my dog hurt his leg yesterday at like 5pm! we gave him some pain killers so he's fine for now! i'm going to talk to my parents when they wake up.

Answer
Either take him to the vet, or put the poor dog out of it's misery

You can't take him to the vet because YOU need to go on vacation? Selfish much? Unless it's your wedding, then you don't need to be there. Cancel the vacation and get the dog the care it needs, or take it in to be euthanized before you head off to have fun.

If you don't have a muzzle in the house, find a belt or long piece of material... wrap it around the dog's muzzle to create a make shift muzzle so it can't bite you (you can google makeshift dog muzzle... pick the dog up and TAKE IT TO THE VET. The boarding kennel isn't going to allow a dog with a serious injury either, so that's just a stupid reason not to take it to get care.

Not getting a dog the care it needs when injured is a FELONY animal abuse. So either have the dog killed, or get it care. $1500 is not that much for surgery for a dog.

EDIT: MUZZLE THE DOG AND TAKE IT TO A VET. You said in one message you can't go because of a wedding in Mexico, now it's your brother's soccer thing... so if you broke your leg, would you rather your parents just left you on the floor in pain, or would you want to see a doctor and get a cast... YOU ARE CAUSING THE DOG MORE PAIN BY LETTING SUFFER THAN YOU WOULD MOVING IT TO GET IT TO A VET.

He's not suffering? He can't move or walk, but you think that's okay... Sure, whatever you need to tell yourself to make yourself feel better about leaving a dog in pain...

The thought of putting him down doesn't sit right with you, but leaving him to suffer with what I'm assuming is torn ligaments... that's fine?

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Dog Crates???

SamiiLynn

I have a very hyper puppy that is just about full grown, she is a little over 5 months old and the vet says she won't get much bigger. she is taller than we expected and her head can reach the top of her wire crate. She can walk in and turn fully around but can't lay straight out. Is it too small?
If we get her a bigger crate:
-Would a carrier type crate calm her down a little because its dark and den like? (We can't put a blanket over the wire crate because she pulls it in and chews on it.)
-Which is better, a wire crate or a carrier type?

My puppy is a beagle corgi mix. The father was uknown but we think border collie. Her crate is Something like H 21" L 23" W 18".

I know I have asked this question once before but different people maybe on and i would also like to hear their imput.

Thank You!

Answer
I am glad to see that whether or not to crate is not the issue, but what size and type of crate is best for your puppy. Crating is important for the health and welfare of any dog, but especially a young puppy who does not know enough to stay out of stuff that could hurt or kill her.

That being said, yes, it sounds like you do need a new and larger crate. I would actually go up two sizes, as at less than 6 months old, your puppy still has a lot of growing to do. Most puppies still have approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of their total growth to do after 6 months of age.

What type of crate is more of a function of personal preference of the dog - in most cases. I do greyhound rescue, and typically, we recommend the wire crates because these are the closest to the type of crates used at the track. These come in two styles, what we call pin crates as the crate is held together by long pins that go in the corners to provide stability, and what we call suitcase crates because they fold up and are more easily stored or transported when necessary.
I prefer the suitcase variety unless I have a dog who is very distructive and will demolish the folding crate by forcing an end to pop out of position in an attempt to escape. For these guys and gals, I keep a couple of pin crates on hand.

The other type of crate, is a varikennel or airline crate. These are made of rigid plastic and are fairly sturdy unless you have a real chewer who can and will chew thru the crate wall to escape. These work fairly well for smaller breed dogs, but just really can't stand up to the punishment of most large breeds.

Some dogs do not like to be enclosed in small spaces. For these dogs, the vari kennel is not a good option. They will develop more problems when they have to be crates for long periods (over night or when you are gone to work all day). They are necessary if you plan to travel with your pet, as most hotels that allow dogs require this type of crate, and all airlines require them.

I would, personally, choose the wire crate. If you want to disguise it, there are some that have a basket type of weave covering the walls and top of the crate, so that it looks more like a piece of furniture. A chewer will make short work of this, but it will look better than just having the plain wire crate. If you have dogs, however, most people understand that you also need a crate for your dog, so folks are a lot less formal about how it looks sitting in the living room or family room.

Good luck, and I hope you are able to find the right kind of crate for you and your puppy.

Wired Crate vs. Plastic Kennel:::::dog questions (pics included)?

Luke K

the crate/kennel comes in the right size


im getting a weimaraner, as a puppy and im wondering what kind of crate i should get:

Wired Crate:
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753745

+has a divider
-i heard a dog can get hurt on it

Plastic Crate:
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751213

+i guess safer cuss he cant hurt himself
-more expensive
-does not have a divider

------------------------------------------------------
Which is better for crate/kennel training?? which do dogs like better? which is safer? which is overall better??

ty for all searius answers

Answer
Plastic is always better. #1 A LOT of smart dogs have discovered how to make their wire kennels collapse thus escape at will, lol. Secondly a plastic crate is more confined and makes a dog feel more comfortable, like they're in a den. And lastly, plastic kennels are MUCH easier to clean and disinfect. With wire kennels you need a BBQ grill cleaning brush and a gallon of bleach to disinfect and clean it! With plastic a little bleach, a hose, and an old rag will do the trick. Also wire kennels can rust and leave rust stains on your carpet after a few months/years of cleaning/use so make sure to put something under wire kennels if you decide to use one (a rubber mat would be perfect).

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bringing a dog to Australia?

Jeanycup

At the moment im living in Indonesia, Im moving back to Sydney Australia.
i want to bring my pet dog. i don't mine having to face quarantine
my dog is a little Chihuahua shes very small and only 3 kg shes older than 1 year in fact shes about 6 years old. I LOVE HER !! how much will this cost? and how long will it take? i know that Indonesia is a non AQIS COUNTRY but by any chance can this be possible ? shes had all her vaccination and she doesn't have rabies.

thanks please help me i really appreciate it !

Answer
It is simply impossible to bring a dog to Australia directly from a non-approved country such as Indonesia. The only way your dog will be able to come to Australia is if she is continuously resident in a DAFF approved country (e.g. Singapore) for a minimum of six months prior to export. There are NO exceptions to this rule.
http://www.daff.gov.au/aqis/cat-dogs/cat6?name=Indonesia

The total cost will depend on how much it costs for her to spend 6 months in an approved country before coming to Australia. Australian quarantine fees will be around $1300 + crate and shipping, another $2500 or thereabouts (for shipping to and from the approved country) + the costs for 6 months care in the approved country + pre-immigration vet costs in that country. I doubt if it would come to anything less than $6000 and it could be more.

I'm 14, my parents are not dog people, we might get a dog but they won't help out at all. Can I do it myself?t?

Maddy

I am 13 years old, and both my parents are NOT dog people. We r moving this summer and I have pretty much convinced them to get a dog when we move. The only problem is, although I know I will be the primary caretaker of the dog,after having another discussion about it, my parents make it clear that I was to do EVERYTHING and did not even want to occasional take the dog for a walk and pick up its poop or even feed it. What if I ever go away for a few days? I'm afraid they will not help out at all with the dog. I'm about to start highschool and could be busy. I am afraid I won't b able to handle it all alone. I need some advice on whether or not to follow through and get my first dog. Any advice?

Answer
Number 1; Getting a dog should be a family decision. Two out of 3 people don't want to deal with a puppy so in my opinion you should wait, as your parents are going to be unhappy with the pup during the teething stage, the chewing of the furniture and the pooping on the floor while your at school. If you get the dog this poor pup is likely to end up in the shelter, its simple not the right time or environment to be raising a pup in. Normally when a parents will say they will NOT help you. they normally mean it.

Since your 14. You will be going to school from at least 9am to 3.30pm, not including bus trips to and from school. Which means you be stuck with the pup for only 6 1/2hours, Your parents are stuck with an unwanted pup from 9.30am-3.30pm=Which mean they have the pup for 7 1/2 hours, and majority of responsiblity will fall on them.

Number 3; a pup need to be housetrainned. How the heck can you housetrain adog when your gone for 6 1/2hours, how can you obedience train it, and correctly socialise it when your out most of the day? and pups 8week+ until 6month need at least 3 feeds daily. Once 6month, 2feed daily.

Frankly 6 1/2 hours is far too long for a pup to be ignore. Max 2hours left alone

Number 4; I be surprised if a 14year old could literally afford the cost of a dog.

Approx cost, here in australia, these figures are well underestimated of what it litterally cost to own a dog.
Purchase Price=$1000
Food=$500
Vacinations=$150
Vet bills=$400
Spay/neuter=200
Bed=$150
Treats=$100
Chew bones=$150
Bowls=$25
Collar=$20
Leash=$20
Trainning=$450
Fence=$1500
Vitamins=$75
Flea Control=$200
Heartworm=$100
Shampoo=$25
Grooming=$400
Grooming Tools=$250
Dental Care=$40
Stain Cleaner=$75
Waste Disposal=$50
Trainning aids=$300
Deworming=$30
Boarding=200
Crate=$150
Car Restraint=$100
Approx 1 year cost =6,600
Approx yearly cost $2485.00

Total over the life of a 14 year old dog $38,905.00

What if I ever go away for a few days? I'm afraid they will not help out at all with the dog. This is not that difficult to fix, as an alernative to have them helping out is taken the pup to pet boarding for holidays while you go away=depending on the place it can cost 200+

What concerns me is these
I'm about to start highschool and could be busy! i can guarantee with high school that you will defiantly be busy. This is not the time to get a puppy, as you need to put all your attention into trainning a pup so it doesn't consistently puppy bite or jump up on people, socialise it and obedience trainning to ensure it developes into a well manner dog, as a mature and well socialised animal. Being bussy you will not be able to give it the attention and trainning it desperately leads which will also lead to unwanted behaviours.

I am afraid I won't b able to handle it all alone. I think you be able to handle the pup fine, but the problem is the cost of vet bills is my major concern. Some vet bills can run into the 6000+ range, the average is 150+, plus the cost of food, trainning, and the time a puppy needs. I'm sure most 14years old don't have this cash on a tree outside. As far as i'm aware, money doesn't grow on trees

I need some advice on whether or not to follow through and get my first dog. Any advice?

As much as I can tell you want a dog, i think the wise decision will NOT to get one right now. I think your wise to have your doubts which means your also smart enough to know this is not the right time for having a pup.

That Cute Puppy Requires Work

Watching a puppy grow can be a rewarding experience, and is often compared to the time requirements of raising a human baby. And just like a baby, you won't discover the dogs' true personality until it is nearing adulthood.

Young puppies require large amounts of time; needing to be fed 3-4 times a day, kept in a confined area indoors and let out every few hours to eliminate. The first few weeks can be filled with sleepless nights as the confused puppy seeks comfort and food. A puppy's growth phase requires much supervision and training. Housetraining is accomplished only after accidents. Teething ("chewing") lasts the first six-eight months. And puppies don't become mature adults until they are two years old, meaning they act like teenage dogs for a year or more.

If everyone in your home is gone for eight hours a day, your puppy probably won't get the attention he needs to meet your expectations. If you are gone much longer than eight hours a day, even adult dogs have high attention needs and may not be a good choice for your current lifestyle.

Adult Dogs Have Many Advantages

Most dogs given to shelters are young adolescents. They don't usually have behavior problems, they were just victims of well-meaning owners who didn't have the time, knowledge or patience for the needs of a dog.

While many shelter dogs could use a little more training, they usually bond quickly with new owners, and have fewer needs than a young puppy.

Many shelter dogs are already housetrained, though they often need some reminders and a few days of adjustment time after their stay at a shelter kennel. Even if they were sadly kept outdoors only, adult dogs often only need a day or two to learn that they live inside, but eliminate outside.

Many shelter dogs have already lived with children. People often assume that they should start with a puppy if they have children. Puppies have sharp baby teeth and can play too roughly with young children. There are many adult dogs in the shelter that are recommended for households with children. And, teaching children about the moral benefits of saving the life of a homeless adult pet is a lesson that will never be forgotten.

Adult dogs are easier to train than young puppies because they have longer attention spans. And many shelter dogs already know some basic commands taught in their first home or by shelter volunteers.

Dogs are generally more predictable. A dog isn't full-grown until it's a year old, so when adopting an adult dog you already know it's full size, health and real personality.

Dogs mature out of their "teenage phase" until they are often two years old. Adopting an older pet means that someone else already had his or her shoes chewed and you get the benefit of a dog who is more mellow and allows you to finish the entire newspaper.

Don't discount a dog that is approaching a senior age. Even an eight-year-old dog has the likelihood of many more good years to give you. A senior dog often offers the sweetest rewards. To learn more about adopting a senior dog, we recommend visiting the Senior Dog's Project (http://www.srdogs.com/).

You are taking a stand against the pet overpopulation crisis and saving an animal that will bond quickly with you, and shower you with gratitude and unconditional love.

All dogs are pack animals and have high needs for regular companionship and attention inside the home with their humans. If you are gone much longer than eight or nine hours a day, a dog may not be an appropriate pet for your busy lifestyle

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Does anyone have experience crate training newborn Boxer pups? I just got a 10 week old female and need help!?

Just the f

I'm looking for advice, suggestions on how to crate/potty train a 10 week old Boxer. Any advice is welcome. Also, do I have to have her ears cut?

Answer
Every year, millions of dogs are surrendered to the pounds and humane societies because they are believed to be "untrainable". Their "bad behaviour" includes chewing furniture and shoes, barking too much and ignoring commands - all problems that are not permanent and easily corrected if you take the time to do so.
As difficult as it may be to remember, your dog is not a little person. You cannot reason with a dog to get him to behave the way you would like. Even though they have shared our homes for thousands of years, dogs still retain many of the instincts and characteristics of the wild dogs from whom they are descended. Bred from ancestral wolves, dogs are both pack and den animals and for this reason, most dogs will accept a crate as part of their lifestyle. Like a baby's playpen, a crate or cage is a place in which your dog can stay when you are unable to keep an eye on him.
Choosing a Crate

A crate is a dog's very own special place. When you choose a crate, be sure to select the correct size for your dog. The crate must be large enough for the adult dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position. Crates usually come in two varieties: fiberglass and metal. A fiberglass crate will provide a greater sense of security for your dog; a metal crate is collapsible and will allow for better circulation.

Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

For crate training to be most successful, your dog must be properly introduced to the crate. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new dog home. Equip the crate with water and a blanket or towel. Start off slowly and increase the time gradually. Place the crate out of the way, but not away from the action: your dog is one of the family, and needs to feel he is not being banished when confined in the crate.

Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in the crate after disciplining him. Your dog needs to feel the crate is a happy, secure place. Select a command such as "Into your house". Encourage your dog to enter by tossing a treat into the crate. Leave the door open at first. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes, and praise him with a cheerful, positive voice. Leave your dog with a special chew toy, just for the times he is in the crate.

Scheduling is very important. Ideally, young puppies would not be crated for more than three hours at a time - they cannot be expected to hold their bladders for more than a couple of hours. Adult dogs should not be crated for much more than eight hours. If you must leave your puppy or dog for longer than the ideal length of time, be sure the crate is arranged to provide a bedding area and a papered area to accommodate "accidents". If your dog needs to use the papers in the crate, under no circumstances should you scold or punish him.

Any complaining your dog may do at the beginning is not usually caused by the crate, but by the new controls set by this unfamiliar environment. Do not let your dog out when he whines or complains. By doing so, you will only reward his bad behaviour. When your dog settles down for five minutes, release him from the crate.

Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you may practice leaving him alone for short periods of time. Allow your dog access to only certain areas of your home. As with children, place breakables and dangerous items well out of reach!

Your dog's crate is a tool that should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. It is not intended as a place to leave your dog and ignore him.

While crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. If your dog seems to be taking a long time to come around, do not give up! Your dog can be trained to be a fastidious member of your household regardless of age. Just be sure to give your dog every chance to do the right thing, at the right time, in the right place, and let your dog know you love him for him!

The Golden Rules of Crate Training:

The crate belongs to your dog. It should be off-limits to children.

You are the "pack leader", and you are in charge. Your dog needs to learn this!

Never let your dog out when he is whining. Giving in will make it more difficult to train him.

Remember, you are doing your dog a favour by keeping him safe and out of trouble when you are unable to supervise him.

Your dog's crate is not intended for long hours of use. When you are at home, your dog needs to be out of his "house" and in your company.

Never use the crate as a means of punishment.

A puppy is like a baby. He will relieve himself anywhere, anytime. Because a newly adopted adult dog is unfamiliar with your home, he may not understand where he should "go"! Housetraining, or teaching your dog to go outside to relieve himself, is an important lesson your dog must learn.
It is up to you, the new parent, to housetrain your new puppy or dog with patience, love and understanding.
CRATE TRAINING
In the wild, wolves live in a den or cave. It is important the entire wolf pack keep this area clean. The same idea works with your family pet. Your dogâs crate is his home, his bedroom. It is likely that your dog will not like to soil his bed. Therefore, he will wait until he is let out to do his business.
HOUSETRAINING WITH YOUR CRATE
On average, puppies can hold their bladders one hour for every month they have been alive, plus one hour. For example, if you have a three month old puppy, he can wait 3 + 1 = 4 hours. If you work longer than this, the best solution is to have someone (a neighbour, a relative, a dog walker) come in at an appropriate time to let your dog out.

100 PER CENT SUPERVISION
Supervision is the key to housetraining! While you are at home, your dog must be supervised. Whether you are watching television, making dinner, on the phone or on the computer, your puppy must be watched. While it sounds like an impossible task, it isnât. Keeping the crate in a social part of the house makes it easier. Using a house lead â a small, thin lead with a little clip on it â also helps immensely. Outside, you put a lead on your dog so you can control him. If the lead is removed after returning home, control is lost. For example, when watching television, have the lead tied to a couch leg. Your dog can have his blanket and toys with him. Heâll feel safe and comfortable. The majority of accidents happen when your pup wanders off and you havenât noticed. You donât want him to sneak off into the kitchen and find a puddle a short time later. If your pup is kept from wandering, the possibility of an accident is diminished because he will not eliminate where he is sitting. 100 per cent supervision means ensuring your dog is playing with you, in his crate, outside or on his house lead.

SCHEDULING
In the morning, take your dog outside. He should urinate and possibly have a bowel movement. Spend about five to seven minutes with him and then bring him in. Do not play with him yet. Feed him breakfast, either in the crate or with the lead, and supervise it. If your pup did not have a bowel movement earlier, take him back outside about 15 minutes after he has eaten. Use the lead to keep your pup moving along while outside. Otherwise, he may start sniffing, stopping and playing to avoid the job at hand. You can say âhurry upâ and your dog will begin to associate these words with the task at hand. Praise him excessively when he has eliminated. Bring him back in the house and place him in his crate if you are going to work. Continue to supervise him with the crate or the lead if you are home. When returning after being out, go directly to the crate, let him out, praise him and put him back in. Feed him his meal, take him outside 15 minutes after he has eaten, praise him after he eliminates, and bring him back in. Continue to follow the same steps consistently.

While you are home, you should take your pup outside on a regular basis. Even if your pup is in a crate or on a house lead, he still needs the opportunity to eliminate. Also, be careful what you wish for! A pup who barks to go outside may be cute and clever now. However, you must try not to fall into the habit of leaping up every time your dog wants in or out. It is a very submissive gesture on your part. Have your pup wait a moment or two.

Setting up a schedule is also a good idea. If your pup is under four months of age, take him out for five minutes every hour on the hour. If your pup is over four months old, take him out every second hour on the hour. The schedule will help you remember when to take him out. Go out for five minutes only. It provides the opportunity to eliminate even if your pup may not need to go. Take your dog out after active play and also after napping. If an accident occurs, you may have forgotten to take him out .

FEEDING TIME
Having a puppy drink a lot of water and then placing him in his crate is much more unkind than letting him be a bit thirsty for an hour or two. Adult dogs should have access to drinking water at all times. However, this is not the case for untrained pups. Most parents will not allow their children to drink a big glass of water before going to bed. Avoid setting your pup up for failure. Restrict his water intake to three or four drinks daily and make sure you remove the water dish about three hours before bedtime. This will help your dog sleep more comfortably.

If it is a hot evening, supply your pup with a few ice cubes. They will enter your dogâs system at a slower pace. When feeding your pup, provide a high-quality food that is a good source of protein. The food must be concentrated so your puppyâs body doesnât require much of it. If you feed less, your puppy eliminates less. Food is directly related to how well puppies do in their housetraining.

EXERCISE
It is important that your pup gets a lot of exercise, especially while crate training. You can play fetch, chase or hide and seek in your home. You can call âcomeâ at the same time to provide further training. Anyway you do it, your pup needs to be able to run and play.

Some crate questions. ?

Bree

It's me again - more questions in preparation for my coming rotti pup.

I have yet to choose a crate.

I've read that it's not good to get rid of or stop using a crate, even after it's served it's purpose as a training tool. This makes sense to me, of course - the crate is supposed to serve as a safe, den-like space. However, my dogs have always been right up in the bed and/or furniture with me, which is where I like them to be. I've found that dogs who are crated, at least those I've met, continue to prefer their crate as a resting area, rather than beside their owner. So, question one for those of you who do or have crated their dogs. If they aren't confined to the crate at night (after house broken, of course), do they stick near you or choose the crate? And during the day when they're out?

Another thing I'm having trouble deciding is plastic or wire. My cats often climb up onto the rabbit and ferret cages and sleep there. I suspect they'd do the same on a wire crate, and I'm uncertain if this would bother the dog. However, with where I will be putting the crate, no light will get into the crate through the sides and possibly not much through the front, and wonder if it would bother to dog to be in the dark like that. Also, my room can be somewhat warm, as I house my reptiles in there as well. With the wire crate, there'd be more ventilation and I don't think it would be unusually warm where it would be situated. With the plastic, it seems like there would be less air flow and I worry about it getting uncomfortably warm. What sort of setting is your crate in during the day?

It's going to cost around a hundred dollars or more, whichever crate I get. Obviously, the pup is going to grow quite large, and if I'm going to continue making the crate available after he's housebroken, I'll need something much bigger than what he'd use as a puppy. Rather than buy two, I was wondering if there's a good way to divide a large crate, so that I can buy one big enough to last. This question is more for those with large dogs - did you start with a smaller crate, or a large? Why?

Some say not to put food or water in the crate, some say do, and some say just one or the other. Which is it? The longest he will be in the crate, besides at night, is just over three hours (I leave at quarter to nine and get back around five after twelve for lunch, at which time he will be immediately taken out). I would obviously remove anything at night, but am uncertain about the best choice for during the day. Do you make food or water available in your crate? Have you always done that? Why/why not?

These probably sound a bit silly, but I've never even considered crating a dog before. Those I know who do crate their dogs have had little success in other areas (the dogs jump, chew, and/or have poor obedience skills), so I don't want to rely on their answers either. I'll probably be back with more questions, but this is all that's come to mind right now.

Answer
My dogs were all crate-trained and they still use them. I'll crate them when I'm gone for more than an hour or so, and will crate any dog that I don't trust not to get into things when I'm not around. They'll go into their crates when the doors are open to snooze or to get away from the other dogs as well. All, however, are still more than happy to snuggle with us, lie on the couch, and sleep next to the bed.

I use wire crates in my home and at shows. They're easy to clean, easy to see into, and look nicer than the plastic ones. If a particular dog likes a more enclosed area, I'll cover the top or even the sides with a sheet or crate cover and leave the front open. They also fold well for travel, carrying up stairs, etc. I also have two fabric crates for hotel rooms or when visiting friends when I don't want to carry a heavy crate along.

My dogs are in heavy-duty plastic Vari-Kennels in the car. PetPorter from Wal-Mart used to be decent, but the plastic is cheap and weak now. If you want a plastic crate, go for the Vari-Kennel. I've seen dogs survive some horrific car crashes in a plastic crate-- it flexes and is more secure. A wire crate in a car accident will crumple and can crush or even skewer the dog on broken wires. I have two plastic crates that live permanently in the back of my SUV. When the dogs are in the car, that's where they ride. I also like the plastic crates for young puppies being introduced to crating. They tend to feel more secure, and are much less likely to get a toe or foot caught and injure themselves while learning to accept being confined. Once they're comfortable with the idea, they will graduate to a wire crate. If you choose a plastic crate and feel there isn't enough airflow, set a box fan ahead of it in hot weather.

I don't put food or water in a crate for a puppy-- they'll spill it, and some pups have drowned if they happen to get caught in the water. A puppy shouldn't be crated long enough to require food and water in the crate. For my older dogs, I'll hang a 1 or 1.5 quart stainless steel bucket (find them in pet supply catalogs, online, or at dog shows) with a carabiner clip with the hinge to the outside so the dog can't catch a lip on it. All dogs in crates have collars removed.

Needless to say, I have more crates than dogs. Right now I have two smaller crates for puppies that are in the basement unused, three wire crates for in the house, three more in storage for shows, three Vari-Kennels, 2 heavy-duty fabric crates, and an x-pen.

Crates are invaluable for house training and keeping your dog safe, as well as providing your dog with his 'own space.' Good luck with your future puppy!

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