Senin, 17 Februari 2014

crate question?




Karens BCS


are crates designed for the whole duration of a dogs life or just to get through the puppy stage?


Answer
The crate becomes a very safe and comfortable place for the dog. I would keep it until he or she no longer goes to it on her own. You don't have to even lock it up once the dog is trained and not chewing everything in sight. We tried to get our dog to start sleeping upstairs with us, and she just barked and scratched until we let her back into her crate. We leave the door open during the day, but she is always there when we get home anyways. She comes out when we are home, but if she is tuckered out after playing she'll go rest there.

Crate Training Puppy?




El payaso


My Puppy is a 6months old Lhasa Apso. I got him from a kennel. I am crate training him. But he went CRAZY the first night, he began to chew on the crate and CRY CRY CRY CRY all night. I was afraid he might yank his teeth biting on the crate ( THE CRATE IS DOUBLE MESH COVERED NOT A METAL CAGE). What Should I do??

1. Should I Lock the crate at night after I walked him and tired him out so that he doesn't walk around the house?
2. He goes WILD and crazy in the crate biting the fabric as if he wants to rip through it; should I scold him firmly to quiet him or simply ignore?
3. Should I put treats in the crate to calm him down?

Mind you he is 6months old.
The crate is double mesh hard fabric I highly doubt he'll break through it. The crate is in the kitchen I keep two dimmed lights on. Even if I leave him free in the kitchen he CRIES CRIES CRIES CRIES. What other ways are there to make Him STOP crying.



Answer
You would be surprised: Even average sized dogs if frustrated enough can break out of alot of mass market low end crates. If they don't, they often hurt themselves trying. For some dogs who have anxiety, separation, or frustraton issues it can take a month or two for them to learn to settle down in the crate. Generally it is a mistake for the first crate training session to involve you locking the door and leaving the house or going to bed. Care has to be taken at each stage of the process where the dog has a problem to work on positive association and desensitization. The crate is not really there to physically confine the dog. It's to create an environment where he wants to lay down and be calm until someone comes to let him out. Some dogs take to it pretty quickly and naturally, alot of others need to be trained to be calm in one.

If this has already started off on the wrong foot, you should begin by removing the crate from the area and getting it out of the dog's view for a few days so she calms down. For the first month or so that you work on this you will probably want to do doggie day care or some other sort of option that keeps the dog from being alone in the house rehearsing bad behavior while you train her to relax inside the care.

I would start by frequently tossing high value treats in there and allow the dog to explore on her own without the door being closed. Once she is comfortable with this, which may take a few days, start asking for a sit, and then a down while she is in the crate. Once you get to this point, start working on desensitizing her to you closing and re-opening the door. I had great success with a dog by simply closing it, opening it IMMEDIATELY, and giving her a treat as long as she remained in a calm stay. She started to focus more on the fact that she could anticipate something good happening when the door opened again than on being upset that it was closed. This is important. If you close the door on an anxious dog, she will only get more anxious. If you close the door on a calm dog, it is easier to keep her calm while you work on the next stages of the process. A good clue to the dog's true state of mind is if she will eat something while sitting in the crate with the door closed, she is getting pretty comfortable with the situation.

From here I would work on closing the door for progressively long periods of time, starting with a few seconds, then a minute, then a few minutes, then half an hour, an hour, and so on. During these training sessions you are not leaving the room. You're staying where the dog can see you. I would say, correct verbally if she digs at the crate, paws at it, or tries to bite it. Do whatever you have to do to get her stop. If she just lays there and whines, ignore it. It is typically pretty hard to make a dog stop whining with a voice command and it's better to ignore it so she sees it has no effect on you.

Once the dog can lay there calmly for an hour or two while you are there, start getting up and moving around the room and the rest of the house. Jingle your keys, take your shoes on and off, and repeatedly go through all the rituals you normally do before leaving the house.

Then leave the house. First for a minute, then 5-10 minutes, then a half hour, again gradually building up to 4-5 hours. I am having success getting a dog who escaped from multiple crates to accept crating using this process. We have problems, setbacks, and delays, but we work through them. You must use positive reinforcement but at the same time make it clear that the crate is becoming an inevitable part of the dog's life and whining, barking, and escape attempts will not make it go away. There will be some times where you will need to sit calmly and act like he does not exist throught the whining, the barking, and the tantrums. Eventually they stop.




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