PLEASE HELP! my dog bites and chews furniture?

LINDA G

HE IS A FIVE MTH OLD WEIMARANER PUP AND IS SPOILED ROTTEN AND GETS MORE THAN ENOUGH ATTENTION. WE GO ON LONG WALKS AND PLAY ALOTS THE PROBLEM IS WHEN HE GETS MAD HE TRIES TO BITE ME OR MY HUSBAND . I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING . IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING WE CAN TRY PLEASE TELL US

Answer
Some common reasons why dogs and puppies chew are; boredom, teething, enjoyment (its fun to tear stuff up), or an inadequate or improper diet. Remember that dogs are intelligent. They are inquisitive, especially during their puppy phase.

The key is to direct the majority of your efforts toward teaching the dog to chew on appropriate items and then reward him accordingly. Dogs do not have an inherent sense of what a chew-toy is, nor, can they differentiate between a chew-toy and a family heirloom. Therefore, the owner must teach the dog the difference.

The chew toys selected should not resemble other household items. For example, Nylabones, Gumabones, and Kongs, do not resemble valuables in most homes. However, rawhide is a leather product, similar to leather shoes or gloves. Buddha ropes are similar to the tasseled ends of rugs. Fuzzy plush toys are similar to carpeting and stuffed animals or throw pillows. Rubber or plastic squeaky toys are similar to children's toys. Use a combination of food baiting, praise, petting and play to encourage the dog to pick up and chew on the correct toys. The chew toys need to become the major source of interaction between the dog and all the family members.

To effectively manage a dog being treating for inappropriate chewing, you must teach the owner to set up an environment in which the dog has no chance of making poor chewing choices. The dog or puppy must be prevented from chewing on inappropriate objects at all times, whether you are around or not. Crates for inside dogs and dog runs for outside dogs provide areas where it is impossible for a dog to chew on inappropriate objects.

Another way to set the dog up to succeed is to make inappropriate items less attractive or tasty by treating the items with an anti-chewing deterrent. The anti-chewing deterrent must be applied without letting the dog see you do it and prior to the dog having access to the item. Bitter Apple spray is a popular anti-chewing deterrent and is quite distasteful to most dogs. Bitter Apple is an alcohol-based repellent and must be re-applied at least once every 24 hours to assure its effectiveness. Some anti-chewing deterrents are not alcohol-based (i.e. water based) and will last longer and have a different set of instructions for their use. Please make sure to read the product directions thoroughly before using for the optimum effectiveness.

A proper diet is another important component in managing inappropriate chewing. You might be asking yourself, how is diet a factor in dealing with chewing? Well, dogs that are not receiving proper nutrition, in other words, a puppy that has been put on adult dog food or a dog that is being fed a diet that has insufficient nutrients might look for what is missing in his diet by chewing on inappropriate objects. Also, a dog that is being fed a strictly soft food diet may not be getting enough hard chewing activity during mealtimes and may resort to chewing on inappropriate objects to stimulate healthy teeth and gums.

If you see your dog chewing on something inappropriate, it is best to just walk away, or better yet, run away from the dog. More often than not, this will intrigue the dog and cause the dog to drop the object and run after you, consequently forgetting all about what they were chewing on. When the dog is close enough, trade him for an appropriate toy. This technique is extremely effective if you have worked, even a little, on fixating the dog on this toy. Once the item has been replaced with an appropriate chew toy you should then take the inappropriate item out of the dog's sight and out of the dog's way. This should discourage the dog from finding the object again to chew on.


Hope this helps.

Potty training my dog?

Meathead

I have a 9 month old Lhasa Apso. When my mom takes him out on a leash to take him to go potty he will go for her, but if i take him out, normally he will not go for me. We have a schedule and everything. That is not my biggest problem. My problem is that he is still having accidents in the house. We punish him if he has an accident, but how do i prevent these. I understand that all puppies have accidents, but how make my puppy have fewer. Please help.
My dog can just go out side and then come in and 5 min later he pees in the house

Answer
My dog, Andy, saves his poop for my husband, some dogs are just funny. Your problem is that you are punishing him. When you punish a puppy for going potty, you confuse them. The thing you want them to do becomes the thing they won't do. You should be watching him, so there is no way a puppy can have an accident, because you are supposed to be watching them. You might want to go to the vet if you think there is something medical, but I think you need to shake it off and get back in the potty training game. Here are some tips, use what helps and leave the rest.

I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:

*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. While personally, the crate traumatizes me, (it looks like a doggie jail), my puppies do better in the crate. They like it, I guess for the den like feeling, but I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. It is a safe secure place for them. However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, child gates......whatever works for you.

*Outside, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.

*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them. Although I use them to give them pills too. I used different treats for different things. We use one bone at bedtime to let the dogs know it is time to go to bed. We use a big rawhide for when we go on long trips, so they have a bone to amuse them, and they will be expected to hold their potty. When they get the rawhide, they will not eat their food and water, until we get home from our trip. (dogs are funny) Do what works best for you.

*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesnât sneak off, or for strange places.

*Yelling. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.

*Sometimes it seems like you take your puppy out 5 million times a day. You can sit on a bench, or folding chair, or a 5 gallon bucket turned upside down to stay in the shade. I use an umbrella for shade too. You can always tape your favorite tv shows. In the winter I microwave a gel pack heating pad, (sold at walmart in the pharmacy, made by Kaz, (I think.) I put the heating pad under my jacket so I won't freeze to death. In the summer, I freeze bottles of water, so we can grab one real fast on our way out the door. I have a mini back pack by the door I can just grab with doggie treats, a flash light, a rubber band for my hair when the wind is bad, etc. Do what works for you.

*Time lines. Keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, so while your last 2 dogs may have trained faster, this puppy might take longer. Training is all about routines, and repeating yourself. It is about rewarding good behaviors, and correcting bad ones. If you have a setback, shake it off, and keep going. Good luck.
Source: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Does anyone have experience crate training newborn Boxer pups? I just got a 10 week old female and need help!?

Just the f

I'm looking for advice, suggestions on how to crate/potty train a 10 week old Boxer. Any advice is welcome. Also, do I have to have her ears cut?

Answer
Every year, millions of dogs are surrendered to the pounds and humane societies because they are believed to be "untrainable". Their "bad behaviour" includes chewing furniture and shoes, barking too much and ignoring commands - all problems that are not permanent and easily corrected if you take the time to do so.
As difficult as it may be to remember, your dog is not a little person. You cannot reason with a dog to get him to behave the way you would like. Even though they have shared our homes for thousands of years, dogs still retain many of the instincts and characteristics of the wild dogs from whom they are descended. Bred from ancestral wolves, dogs are both pack and den animals and for this reason, most dogs will accept a crate as part of their lifestyle. Like a baby's playpen, a crate or cage is a place in which your dog can stay when you are unable to keep an eye on him.
Choosing a Crate

A crate is a dog's very own special place. When you choose a crate, be sure to select the correct size for your dog. The crate must be large enough for the adult dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position. Crates usually come in two varieties: fiberglass and metal. A fiberglass crate will provide a greater sense of security for your dog; a metal crate is collapsible and will allow for better circulation.

Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

For crate training to be most successful, your dog must be properly introduced to the crate. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new dog home. Equip the crate with water and a blanket or towel. Start off slowly and increase the time gradually. Place the crate out of the way, but not away from the action: your dog is one of the family, and needs to feel he is not being banished when confined in the crate.

Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in the crate after disciplining him. Your dog needs to feel the crate is a happy, secure place. Select a command such as "Into your house". Encourage your dog to enter by tossing a treat into the crate. Leave the door open at first. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes, and praise him with a cheerful, positive voice. Leave your dog with a special chew toy, just for the times he is in the crate.

Scheduling is very important. Ideally, young puppies would not be crated for more than three hours at a time - they cannot be expected to hold their bladders for more than a couple of hours. Adult dogs should not be crated for much more than eight hours. If you must leave your puppy or dog for longer than the ideal length of time, be sure the crate is arranged to provide a bedding area and a papered area to accommodate "accidents". If your dog needs to use the papers in the crate, under no circumstances should you scold or punish him.

Any complaining your dog may do at the beginning is not usually caused by the crate, but by the new controls set by this unfamiliar environment. Do not let your dog out when he whines or complains. By doing so, you will only reward his bad behaviour. When your dog settles down for five minutes, release him from the crate.

Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you may practice leaving him alone for short periods of time. Allow your dog access to only certain areas of your home. As with children, place breakables and dangerous items well out of reach!

Your dog's crate is a tool that should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. It is not intended as a place to leave your dog and ignore him.

While crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. If your dog seems to be taking a long time to come around, do not give up! Your dog can be trained to be a fastidious member of your household regardless of age. Just be sure to give your dog every chance to do the right thing, at the right time, in the right place, and let your dog know you love him for him!

The Golden Rules of Crate Training:

The crate belongs to your dog. It should be off-limits to children.

You are the "pack leader", and you are in charge. Your dog needs to learn this!

Never let your dog out when he is whining. Giving in will make it more difficult to train him.

Remember, you are doing your dog a favour by keeping him safe and out of trouble when you are unable to supervise him.

Your dog's crate is not intended for long hours of use. When you are at home, your dog needs to be out of his "house" and in your company.

Never use the crate as a means of punishment.

A puppy is like a baby. He will relieve himself anywhere, anytime. Because a newly adopted adult dog is unfamiliar with your home, he may not understand where he should "go"! Housetraining, or teaching your dog to go outside to relieve himself, is an important lesson your dog must learn.
It is up to you, the new parent, to housetrain your new puppy or dog with patience, love and understanding.
CRATE TRAINING
In the wild, wolves live in a den or cave. It is important the entire wolf pack keep this area clean. The same idea works with your family pet. Your dogâs crate is his home, his bedroom. It is likely that your dog will not like to soil his bed. Therefore, he will wait until he is let out to do his business.
HOUSETRAINING WITH YOUR CRATE
On average, puppies can hold their bladders one hour for every month they have been alive, plus one hour. For example, if you have a three month old puppy, he can wait 3 + 1 = 4 hours. If you work longer than this, the best solution is to have someone (a neighbour, a relative, a dog walker) come in at an appropriate time to let your dog out.

100 PER CENT SUPERVISION
Supervision is the key to housetraining! While you are at home, your dog must be supervised. Whether you are watching television, making dinner, on the phone or on the computer, your puppy must be watched. While it sounds like an impossible task, it isnât. Keeping the crate in a social part of the house makes it easier. Using a house lead â a small, thin lead with a little clip on it â also helps immensely. Outside, you put a lead on your dog so you can control him. If the lead is removed after returning home, control is lost. For example, when watching television, have the lead tied to a couch leg. Your dog can have his blanket and toys with him. Heâll feel safe and comfortable. The majority of accidents happen when your pup wanders off and you havenât noticed. You donât want him to sneak off into the kitchen and find a puddle a short time later. If your pup is kept from wandering, the possibility of an accident is diminished because he will not eliminate where he is sitting. 100 per cent supervision means ensuring your dog is playing with you, in his crate, outside or on his house lead.

SCHEDULING
In the morning, take your dog outside. He should urinate and possibly have a bowel movement. Spend about five to seven minutes with him and then bring him in. Do not play with him yet. Feed him breakfast, either in the crate or with the lead, and supervise it. If your pup did not have a bowel movement earlier, take him back outside about 15 minutes after he has eaten. Use the lead to keep your pup moving along while outside. Otherwise, he may start sniffing, stopping and playing to avoid the job at hand. You can say âhurry upâ and your dog will begin to associate these words with the task at hand. Praise him excessively when he has eliminated. Bring him back in the house and place him in his crate if you are going to work. Continue to supervise him with the crate or the lead if you are home. When returning after being out, go directly to the crate, let him out, praise him and put him back in. Feed him his meal, take him outside 15 minutes after he has eaten, praise him after he eliminates, and bring him back in. Continue to follow the same steps consistently.

While you are home, you should take your pup outside on a regular basis. Even if your pup is in a crate or on a house lead, he still needs the opportunity to eliminate. Also, be careful what you wish for! A pup who barks to go outside may be cute and clever now. However, you must try not to fall into the habit of leaping up every time your dog wants in or out. It is a very submissive gesture on your part. Have your pup wait a moment or two.

Setting up a schedule is also a good idea. If your pup is under four months of age, take him out for five minutes every hour on the hour. If your pup is over four months old, take him out every second hour on the hour. The schedule will help you remember when to take him out. Go out for five minutes only. It provides the opportunity to eliminate even if your pup may not need to go. Take your dog out after active play and also after napping. If an accident occurs, you may have forgotten to take him out .

FEEDING TIME
Having a puppy drink a lot of water and then placing him in his crate is much more unkind than letting him be a bit thirsty for an hour or two. Adult dogs should have access to drinking water at all times. However, this is not the case for untrained pups. Most parents will not allow their children to drink a big glass of water before going to bed. Avoid setting your pup up for failure. Restrict his water intake to three or four drinks daily and make sure you remove the water dish about three hours before bedtime. This will help your dog sleep more comfortably.

If it is a hot evening, supply your pup with a few ice cubes. They will enter your dogâs system at a slower pace. When feeding your pup, provide a high-quality food that is a good source of protein. The food must be concentrated so your puppyâs body doesnât require much of it. If you feed less, your puppy eliminates less. Food is directly related to how well puppies do in their housetraining.

EXERCISE
It is important that your pup gets a lot of exercise, especially while crate training. You can play fetch, chase or hide and seek in your home. You can call âcomeâ at the same time to provide further training. Anyway you do it, your pup needs to be able to run and play.

Some crate questions. ?

Bree

It's me again - more questions in preparation for my coming rotti pup.

I have yet to choose a crate.

I've read that it's not good to get rid of or stop using a crate, even after it's served it's purpose as a training tool. This makes sense to me, of course - the crate is supposed to serve as a safe, den-like space. However, my dogs have always been right up in the bed and/or furniture with me, which is where I like them to be. I've found that dogs who are crated, at least those I've met, continue to prefer their crate as a resting area, rather than beside their owner. So, question one for those of you who do or have crated their dogs. If they aren't confined to the crate at night (after house broken, of course), do they stick near you or choose the crate? And during the day when they're out?

Another thing I'm having trouble deciding is plastic or wire. My cats often climb up onto the rabbit and ferret cages and sleep there. I suspect they'd do the same on a wire crate, and I'm uncertain if this would bother the dog. However, with where I will be putting the crate, no light will get into the crate through the sides and possibly not much through the front, and wonder if it would bother to dog to be in the dark like that. Also, my room can be somewhat warm, as I house my reptiles in there as well. With the wire crate, there'd be more ventilation and I don't think it would be unusually warm where it would be situated. With the plastic, it seems like there would be less air flow and I worry about it getting uncomfortably warm. What sort of setting is your crate in during the day?

It's going to cost around a hundred dollars or more, whichever crate I get. Obviously, the pup is going to grow quite large, and if I'm going to continue making the crate available after he's housebroken, I'll need something much bigger than what he'd use as a puppy. Rather than buy two, I was wondering if there's a good way to divide a large crate, so that I can buy one big enough to last. This question is more for those with large dogs - did you start with a smaller crate, or a large? Why?

Some say not to put food or water in the crate, some say do, and some say just one or the other. Which is it? The longest he will be in the crate, besides at night, is just over three hours (I leave at quarter to nine and get back around five after twelve for lunch, at which time he will be immediately taken out). I would obviously remove anything at night, but am uncertain about the best choice for during the day. Do you make food or water available in your crate? Have you always done that? Why/why not?

These probably sound a bit silly, but I've never even considered crating a dog before. Those I know who do crate their dogs have had little success in other areas (the dogs jump, chew, and/or have poor obedience skills), so I don't want to rely on their answers either. I'll probably be back with more questions, but this is all that's come to mind right now.

Answer
My dogs were all crate-trained and they still use them. I'll crate them when I'm gone for more than an hour or so, and will crate any dog that I don't trust not to get into things when I'm not around. They'll go into their crates when the doors are open to snooze or to get away from the other dogs as well. All, however, are still more than happy to snuggle with us, lie on the couch, and sleep next to the bed.

I use wire crates in my home and at shows. They're easy to clean, easy to see into, and look nicer than the plastic ones. If a particular dog likes a more enclosed area, I'll cover the top or even the sides with a sheet or crate cover and leave the front open. They also fold well for travel, carrying up stairs, etc. I also have two fabric crates for hotel rooms or when visiting friends when I don't want to carry a heavy crate along.

My dogs are in heavy-duty plastic Vari-Kennels in the car. PetPorter from Wal-Mart used to be decent, but the plastic is cheap and weak now. If you want a plastic crate, go for the Vari-Kennel. I've seen dogs survive some horrific car crashes in a plastic crate-- it flexes and is more secure. A wire crate in a car accident will crumple and can crush or even skewer the dog on broken wires. I have two plastic crates that live permanently in the back of my SUV. When the dogs are in the car, that's where they ride. I also like the plastic crates for young puppies being introduced to crating. They tend to feel more secure, and are much less likely to get a toe or foot caught and injure themselves while learning to accept being confined. Once they're comfortable with the idea, they will graduate to a wire crate. If you choose a plastic crate and feel there isn't enough airflow, set a box fan ahead of it in hot weather.

I don't put food or water in a crate for a puppy-- they'll spill it, and some pups have drowned if they happen to get caught in the water. A puppy shouldn't be crated long enough to require food and water in the crate. For my older dogs, I'll hang a 1 or 1.5 quart stainless steel bucket (find them in pet supply catalogs, online, or at dog shows) with a carabiner clip with the hinge to the outside so the dog can't catch a lip on it. All dogs in crates have collars removed.

Needless to say, I have more crates than dogs. Right now I have two smaller crates for puppies that are in the basement unused, three wire crates for in the house, three more in storage for shows, three Vari-Kennels, 2 heavy-duty fabric crates, and an x-pen.

Crates are invaluable for house training and keeping your dog safe, as well as providing your dog with his 'own space.' Good luck with your future puppy!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How do you keep your small dogs from peeing on carpet?

dog crates that look like furniture image

Sunday

I have a malteese, and a papillion, about 4 years old! They still pee on the carpet in my bedroom in the same spot all the time! They will go on rugs too , if I use them! They have done it so much , I can't get the smell out, and the carpet is so worn out in that spot! I put tile in the rest of the house, but I can't afford to do my bedroom yet! I have grass in the back yard, and a doggy door, so they can go out whenever they want! Usually when it's cold , or rainy, they don't want to go on the grass, so when were not looking, they go on the carpet! I use a little green bissel to spot clean, but it seems to be making it smell worse! I can't sleep at night, because the smell bothers me!
Can anyone help me , before I tear out my carpet, and just live on conctete, untill I can afford to put more carpet or tile in my bedroom?
Even If I could afford it , I don't know what to replace the carpet with! If I put more carpet, they will probably pee on it too, and tile would be kind of cold!
I potty trained them when they were puppies, and I've been a stay at home dog owner most of their lives, so I take them out alot!

Answer
House-training an adult dog isnât much different from house-training a puppy â in fact, your adult dogs should be able to âhold itâ for much longer than a puppy, making retraining an adult less labor intense. Dog crates can be useful training tools when it comes to correcting house soiling problems, because dogs generally will not soil in their immediate environment. However, if your dogs have never been placed in a crate, take care to introduce him slowly.
Sry forgot to add that the last link is for home remidies to take out pet odors. Hope this helps.

Also, consider that your dog may define home differently than you do. To you, home may be a multi-story house, but your dog may see everything beyond the kitchen (which he has kept spotless) as âoutside.â By restricting your dogs to a smaller area for a while, and then gradually extending their home area, you can help them learn the ropes.

The procedure: Take your dogs outside, on leash, to a regular âtoilet areaâ and give them a food treat for eliminating there. Try to keep âtoiletingâ walks brief: If they are going to urinate, itâll probably happen right away. If you do not have immediate success with them, take them for a longer walk, try using a different leash, or try exiting from a different doorway. This way you can emphasize that a bathroom walk has only one purpose. If they don't cooperate in time allowed, return indoors and supervise or restrict them, then repeat the bathroom walk in 15 to 30 minutes.

If you discover an âaccidentâ after the fact, clean it up without a fuss â punishment today wonât stop the behavior from being repeated tomorrow. Usually, consistent supervision or confinement and regularly scheduled bathroom walks (donât forget the rewards!) will eventually teach your dog what is expected of him. If you catch him in the act, tell him ``no,ââ but resist the urge to shout. Instead, reward them lavishly when they go where they are supposed to.

In addition to the above measures, it is very important to clean up previous messes. Physical cleanup or masking the odors won't do, instead try a proprietary odor neutralizer should be used. These products contain enzymes or live bacteria that destroy the odors at the source by breaking down the molecules. Without these measure the dog will be attracted right back to a previously soiled area. This will include shampooing the carpet and furniture thoroughly.

Remember animals have a very behavioral nature and they are probably trying to out-mark each other so you have to be very routine as animals love routine. Work with both of them at the same time so they observe each other in training. It may be necessary to take them to a dog trainer to get help with this issue or call a local trainer in your area who can work with your dogs at the house. Make sure if you take on this endeavor yourself that you are able to spend ample time with them as that is what it will take to accomplish this.

Can anyone tell me what breed of puppy is really good about not chewing on wood furniture?

Katy

I have a 6 month old lab mix that chews on our wood furniture and just doesn't seem to stop no matter how many toys I give her. I really want to get her a companion to play with while I'm at work, and hopefully that will stop her from chewing everything to pieces since she will have a buddy. Can anyone recommend a breed that isn't notorious for chewing everything in sight? Thank you :)

Answer
Do you have a Kong and a sterilized hollow bone for her? If no then get them. The Kong is a rubber beehive shaped toy for your dog. Since she is a heavy chewer you should get either the red or black one...skip the puppy one, it will be too soft for her. Stuff these two things with anything that you think she will like. If she likes ice cubes both of these can also be put in the freezer. Next, if she is not trustworthy in the house when you are gone she should be kept in a puppy safe space such as a crate or small utilityroom, bathroom or a small section of the kitchen. Get her in the habit of chewing on appropriate chew toys (different from play toys). Praise and reward her for chewing on her things. Correct her with a 'EH EH' when she goes to chew on something that she is not allowed to chew on. Give her an appropriate chew toy and again praise and reward her. Dogs always do better with a friend although maybe it might be a good idea to solve the actual problem first. After all, all dogs are different and even though some dont usually chew, many times they will pick up habits from another dog in the house. It sounds like the last thing you need is two dogs that chew everything in the house. Better to solve this issue first and then get another for companionship. They also make bitter sprays to help deter (bitter apple and bitter yuk are two that I know the names of offhand) These both will wear off with chewing so reapply often. If you try to trust little girl with just a bitter spray during the day, I dont think you will get the desired results. If she chews aggresively enough to start to wear out the taste she will learn to tolerate the taste for a little bit before it wears off and you wont be home to reapply. Let her know that she IS allowed to chew in front of you but only on HER stuff. Avoid yelling at her when you come home and find things chewed to bits. She has a 2-3 second window of association and she has not a single clue why she is getting in trouble. All she knows is that when you get that look on your face, she gets in trouble for an unknown reason. She will slink away until you are safe to be around. She does not 'know' better, if she did she wouldnt do it. Once again, if she is not trustworthy at this stage of the game (most puppies are not by the way) she should not have unlimited access to your house. With better performance she should get more freedom. Until then she is still learning and it is your job to help her succeed. I hope this helps

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

What dog breeds are good for hot weather?

dog crates that look like furniture image

Wolf'S Sha

I live in San Antonio, Texas and am looking into some dogs that wont be miserable in this heat. The heat and humidity are a consideration and I am not sure about breeds. I do not like, nor want, small breeds. I have 2 cats so that is also taken in thought, a dog that would be good with cats. Anyone have any ideas?
I should mention that it will be inside, I will take it out for exercise as needed. I have no problem with high energy dogs! I will take it out for play and all, but there is no way I will keep a dog outside in a yard. Any dog I have will be inside when I am not out with it.

Answer
Okay...are you planning to keep this dog in a crate inside, or let it loose in the house? As you are describing, any dog will do fine, weather-wise, since you plan on keeping it inside. I've had border collies, a shiba inu (like an akita), all do fine.

What you need is a dog who can stand being in the house all day. If you get a high energy dog, expect furniture to get destroyed. You may want to get pet gates to contain it to part of the house. I do not like crates!! You also want to think about shedding. One of the sheddingist dogs I ever owned was a Dalmatian. Don't be fooled by the short coat! Plus they are hyper.

Exercise-wise, don't push the dog too hard. The summer mornings are worst, as the humidity is so high the dogs cannot effectively cool. Here is a link to a weather site, I have it set for Universal City, which is close to San Antonio.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=29.55160&lon=-98.30620&unit=0&lg=english&FcstType=digital&fs=3

When the temperature and humidity combined exceed 150, you should not exercise the dog. This is from a hunting dog website, I forgot the name of it. It makes sense. I have had dogs overheat. It is scary. They lay down and refuse to move. If that should happen, wet them on the bare skin areas...Always give the dog plenty of fresh water.

When the dog is outside, don't be overprotective of your "landscaping." They like to dig down to a bare dirt hole they can lay in, and usually need more than one since they like to have a change of views!

I would recommend going to the Animal Defense League, off Nacogdoches and Wurzbach Pkwy, and seeing what they have in the line of strays. They have pet placement counselors. You can tell them what you have in mind, and they could make appropriate recommendations. Remember, puppies will be puppies for about 18 months, so if you get one, be prepared for that. Older dogs make nice pets, but past 8 or so the playing slows down, and the medical bills start going up. 2 yr old dogs are ideal....

good luck to you!!

How do I stop my dog from grumping at my 2 year old?

kelliemag

My 2 year old is of course very active and all over the place. She loves to give my dog a kiss or a hug and constantly walks by him because our house isn't that big. Lately, he has been grumping at her and I don't like it. He doesn't use his teeth, but he gives a little grump. How do I stop this? He doesn't do it to anybody else.

Answer
What is "grumpng????"

Rumbling in his chest?? A snarl with the lip lifted???

If he is older or if he has a physical problem (particuarly something that causes pain), he is going to be getting very tired of what you call "hugs and kisses" and is she walking by without bumping him or is she half-falling on him???

Take him to vet and make sure there is nothing physical making him feel ill or uncomfortable.

He is warning her to stop falling all over him.

Even animals have their personal space and need to have it NOT invaded all the time. You may find her wanting to "hug and kiss" and get in his space all the time cute - he doesn't and neither would many adults if they were the ones being pestered.

Get him a crate so he has a place to escape.

Keep them supervised - don't let her keep "hugging and kissing" him when he gets tired of it. He is not a stuffed toy. No very small child should be with an animal without an adult on the floor in the middle. At that age, her idea of "pet and touch" is more poke, prod and grab his fur and wallow on top of him.

If you can't fit a crate in,use a baby gate to keep her in one part of the house and let him be in a room and have a break.

Let him get up a surface she can't reach on her own like your bed or other furniture that lets him get out of her reach.

Don't have unresonable expectation of an animal and expect them to understand or think it cute when a toddle is all over top them.

He doesn't want to attack her so he is warning her to let him along - he just wants some peace and quiet from the constant invasion of his space and sleep. Give him some.


Even the most parient and kindly and tolerant breeds get fed up with very small children and need to get away from them and out of their reach.

Even my perfectly trained Service Dog wh goes to grocery stores, restuarants and all over in public places can only take so much fom the under 5 crowd until he gives me a look of sheer desperation and "get me outta here!" And a grocery cart accidentally going over his tail doesn't even get acknowledged by him let alone a yip.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Looking to get a Toy Fox Terrier do they make good pets?

dog crates that look like furniture image

mzr81004

I finally decided on the type of breed that best suits our family but I just wanted to know a little bit more about them. Also, wanted to make sure that they're not known to chew on furniture. Im trying to find breeders around Va but cant find any. Any idea where I can go?

Answer
Very active little dogs. See the word terrier? (grin)
Terriers in general are SMART, so you need to give them plenty of exercize, both physically and for that active little mind.
A basic obedience course is a must.
Invest in a crate for housebreaking and times when you cannot supervise.
Also some good chew toys, nylabones, kongs, etc.
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/toyfoxterrier.htm
You might want to do a google search for a breed-specific rescue, or check on petfinder.com.

What to do during a dog's seizure and what is the cost of medication?

Mo Money

My 3 year old lab had two seizures in March of this year (really weak, not diagnosed). Yesterday my wife and I noticed he was having one. I rubbed him down and talked to him during the seizure until it went away (3-5 minutes). What else can I do? I know I have to take him to the vet and most likely get him medicated. How much money are we looking at?

Answer
my dog had seizures and all i could do for her is sit and pat her and let her know i was there.

Its very sad to watch it happen to them

I the end the seizures did kill her

I just found this info if its any good

During the Seizure:

- Some dogs are light or sound sensitive during seizure episodes. Try dimming the lights and keeping phones at a distance from the dog.

- Keep old towels or baby diapers handy to catch urine if your dog urinates during seizures.

- Some human epileptics say they have an easier time if the seizure is allowed to run its course. Calling the dog's name to bring them out of the seizure may not be the best thing for your dog. Try it each way and see which is more comfortable for your particular dog's seizure.

- A fan blowing on the dog, or rubbing the feet and belly with cool water may help cool the dog down. Of course, in any case should the dog seem to be overheating due to repeated seizures or not coming out of a seizure -IMMEDIATELY bring the dog to/or contact a vet since overheating can be very dangerous.

- Many dogs are confused and even blind right after a seizure. Keep the dog in a safe area where they cannot fall down stairs or hurt themselves.

- Keep a careful journal of the seizures. As soon as possible write down the exact time the dog started to seizure and the time the seizure ended. A stop watch or watch with a second hand can be helpful. After the seizure is over and you have time - write down all circumstances surrounding the seizure, such as unusual food eaten, activities that happened during the previous day, medications or vaccinations recently given. A detailed journal can be helpful when bringing your dog to a new vet or neurologist.

- Be prepared to transport a dog that cannot stand up and walk, or is even in the middle of a seizure. Hard plastic children's sleds can be used to carry or drag the dog to the car. A heavy blanket folded can also act as a stretcher. If you are alone with a very heavy/large seizing dog, call the vets office for instructions. Depending on where you live you may want to try calling the police for help in getting the dog into the car if no one else is available.



Safety:

- Seizure proofing your home is important since most of us cannot be there to watch our dogs at all times. Seizures may occur when the dog is home alone. Many people crate their dogs while they are not there. An airline type crate (Vari-Kennel or Furrari) minimizes the chances of the feet getting caught up in the wires.

- While crating, or even when leaving the dog home alone, make sure the dog is not wearing a collar (especially with tags) that could get caught while the dog is thrashing. Choking can result.

- Some people make a special room for the epileptic dog, clearing out any objects/furniture that may injure the dog during a seizure. Crating or making a 'doggy room' may be the best idea should you have a 'catapulting dog', that is one that throws itself across the room during seizures.

- Never leave an epileptic dog alone near any water deep enough to drown in. If you need to, investigate getting a doggy lifevest for your dog.

- If you are concerned about your dog seizing while swimming, doggie life vests are available.

- Protection or separation may need to be considered in multiple dog households. A seizing dog can trigger the 'pack' instinct in which an injured animal on the ground is attacked. Monitor your dogs until you know their reactions to the seizing dog.

- Baby gates can be invaluable to block off stairways or confine the dog to a certain room.

- Be careful of leaving windows open should you have a dog that spends time near one. Screen windows can easily fall out of the framing as well as your dog.

- Prop a large piece of styrofoam insulation against a sliding glass door if you are afraid of your dog hitting against it.

- Buy a new or used baby alert monitor to 'hear' your dog if he sleeps in a different part of the home. Just put the receiver part in your bedroom -this may help you sleep better if you are constantly trying to 'listen' to hear if the dog is all right.

- If you really want to know what happens when you are not home, buy a voice activated tape recorder. It only records when significantly loud noise is heard. This will not only let you know if your dog has seized, but if he has been barking all day. Some also videotape their dog during the time they are gone. They then fast forward thru the tape to see if anything unusual has happened during the day.

- Keep phone numbers to your vet and all emergency vet hospitals near all phones. 2:00 a.m. in the morning is not he time to decide if your dog is in status and then figure out what to do. Drive by the emergency vet so you know exactly where it is. When traveling, get emergency numbers in advance or immediately find the hospital nearest you when you arrive. Keep the number handy at all times.

- An ID tag on a lost epileptic dog is very important. It's scary enough to think of a lost dog, but a lost dog without medications is even worse. Medical alert tags are available at most pharmacies, pet supply catalogs or from your vet. It can even be engraved and worn with your dog's regular tags.

- Train all your dogs for basic obedience. You may need it someday if you are walking multiple dogs and your epileptic seizures. The situation would be much easier if the other dogs will obey a sit or down stay.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers