My dog hurts him self in crate HELP!!!?

horsegirl

My 9month old boy boxer. Has crate problems! We have to put him in there when were gone. we cant leave him out he distroys the house. When we put him in the crate he goes in easy. but when we come home his nose is raw and bloody. Hes thirsity and there is pee everywere. I dont know what to do!!! He has to stay in his crate for about 6 hrs a day 5 days a week. what should i do!!! Please Please Please help!!!!!!!!!!
He gets run for about 10 minutes before he goes in crate. goes potty before. gets pillows blankets chews treats babys ect.

Answer
A 9 month old dog should be able to stay in a crate for 6 hours without urinating. I think the problem lies in exercising the dog more and spending time BEFORE crating to make sure the dog has urinated/defecated before crating.

Also, you may consider a crate that is not wire. But I would really suggest more exercise. Boxers are not laid back dogs. They need obedience training and exercise much like most other dogs need

You may also consider taking your dog in for a wellness exam at your vet to make sure there are no urinary tract problems.

Is the crate big enough for this dog? The dog must be able to stand STRAIGHT up and be able to stretch the whole body out. If your crate is too small this may also be causing the problem.
.

Why would dogs fight with each other?

Loves Dogs

Why would two dogs fight when they live together?

I have a 9 month old Shepherd/Collie mix who is spayed. I've had her for 6.5 months. I recently rescued a Golden Retriever/Pyrenees mix directly from a neglect case - he's four and neutered. Actually from my parents. We've had him for maybe three weeks. They get along great and play together all the time. They are always together. This morning they broke out into a fight in the house! I don't know what happened. Usually there is growling over food or a bone, but none of that was around them. What happened? I try to leave them out of their crates while we are gone, but not more than 2 hours at a time. Now I'm afraid to leave them out alone if they are going to fight. I don't need to come home to bloody dogs! What could have gone wrong this morning?
He has never played with toys so he doesn't have a big interest in them, but he is learning. There was a toy where they were playing and got into the fight. I feed them next to their crates in a different room. It was a loud fight, no blood, but they were really going at each other. I broke them apart and the young one lunged for one more attack.

Answer
I have 2 pyrs and an Aussie mix. Your dogs have the potential for getting along just great.

It's good that your Shep/Col is female and your Golden/Pyr is male. You have less fighting between a male/female pair than a same sex pair.

You have to be a strong Alpha Pack Leader.
You have to understand that these dogs need to establish their place in the pack.

A 4 year old male will assume he should be the alpha dog.
A 9 month old dog is at the right age to challenge any older dog to become alpha.

Before you got the 4 year old, your female was the ONLY dog, so she was the alpha dog. Now her right to be alpha is challenged by his age and his size. He's bound to be considerably bigger than she is.

SO... like it or not, some fighting will go on to establish who's THE alpha dog. One is alpha male; one is alpha female. One must be the alpha dog and she was and doesn't want to lose her position, but he wants it also.

I have trouble at times with my two males fighting, and have found that, while I don't always recognize the infraction, my Aussie (the omega dog) sometimes does SOMETHING wrong and my male pyr attacks him. You may have believe theere was no reason, but you are wrong. You just don't know what the reason for the fight was.

Pyrs have a whole set of rules. She was there first, so she sees herself as alpha. He's pyr, and she may have done something he sees as an "infraction" of pyr rules.

I stop fights inside the house as it can damage the home. Also, neither of my boys will back down, even though my male pyr is the alpha male. When I pull my pyr off my Aussie, as I pull him up, I find the Aussie hanging from his neck where he's got a bite on the pyr and won't let go. So it takes two of us to separate these boys.

As Pack Leader, you can intervene. It's your right. But, if they haven't determined who is alpha, then your intervention can confuse and delay that determination being made.

IF you already see that one is alpha, then there was simply an infraction done by the one who's not alpha and the alpha was punishing the other for the infraction.

IF you already KNOW one is alpha, then:
1) alpha dog is fed first
2) alpha dog is allowed out the door first
3) alpha dog is allowed in the door first
4) alpha dog is given treats first
etc. etc. etc.

Got it? You can't treat one as alpha right now and the other as alpha later today. If you do that, you confuse the issue. And for your dogs to be happy ONE must be alpha and each must know it's place in the pack.

Go to these websites and read up on and learn how to be Pack Leader.

Join a Pyr group. You can get some good feedback from other owners of rescued dogs, and pyrs, and several also have Aussie's.

Good luck with your challenge. @->--

p.s. I hope you understand that all dogs do play fight. It's not a serious fight unless one is baring it's teeth and snarling with an angry look on it's face.

If their fight was actually serious, then don't leave them loose in the home alone when you're gone till they settle who's alpha. It may take some time, so you have to keep an eye on things. Learn what the problem is by watching carefully and trying to think like a dog.

Your added details:
They don't want to harm each other. That was an alpha fight.
You can choose to treat her as alpha, becasue she was, but by his size, he might take it away from her.

My dogs play "king of the hill" The pyr who can consistently knock the other one down became the alpha... and that was my girl way back ... and now they are evenly matched... but she remains alpha.

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Dog car sickness. Road trip?

Claire S

My dog usually vomits in the car or drools a lot within 10 minutes of being in the car. In the summer, my family and I might take him on a 8-10 hour road trip with occasional stops.

He is a Brittany Spaniel (medium sized dog) and will be around 9 months old when we go.

If we take our dog, what will be comfortable for him to ride in? A crate will take up too much space in the car.

Thanks
We DO NOT plan on leaving our dog in the car.

He is micro chipped.

Answer
Never give the dog anything unless it is prescribed by your vet. Your best bet would be to start now getting your dog use to being in the car and make it as pleasant as possible. Start with short trips around your neighborhood five minutes maybe then increase to ten etc. Do this at least twice a day and as you increase the time and it doesn't get sick praise lavishly do not punish if it gets sick just stop for that day clean up the mess and decrease the time the next trip by a couple minutes eventually it should be able to tolerate it. Also as your vet, what you can bring with you should you need it. I use a harness that attaches to the seat belt, the dog should be in the back seat. This is what I use:usak9outfitters.com/autosafetygear.htm You may want to shop around for a water proof seat cover which we keep on our back seat to protect from dirt etc you could find one for about $20.

Here are a few other tips as you will be traveling in the summer:

PLEASE LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME IN HOT AND EVEN WARM WEATHER!

On an 85 degree day, it only takes minutes for the inside of your car reach 102 degrees even when the windows have been left open.

Within 30 minutes, a carâs interior can reach 120 degrees. When temperature outside is a pleasant 70 degrees the inside of your car maybe as much as 30 degrees hotter.

Shade offers little protection and moves with the sun. Pets at risk for hyperthermia (overheating) : young animals, elderly animals, overweight animals, those with short muzzles, and those with thick dark-colored coats.

A FORM OF CRUELTY âLITERALLYâ.

Many states and local governments have laws that prohibit leaving an animal unattended in a motor vehicle under dangerous conditions, which include warm and hot days. Under these laws, police, animal control agents, peace officers and others may be authorized to enter by whatever means necessary to remove the animal. You could have your car damaged, be charged with a crime, and fined or imprisoned. Its not worth it--donât leave your pet in the car!

HOT WEATHER TRAVELING TIPS:

*Get a veterinary checkup before traveling and make sure you have the necessary vaccination certificate for the area you will be visiting, as well as flea and tick treatments and heartworm preventative.

*Carry a gallon thermos of cold water or bring along a two-liter plastic bottle of water that you froze the night before.

*Exercise your pet during the coolest parts of the day (dawn and dusk), and never immediately following a meal.

*Hot asphalt and tar can burn sensitive paw pads. Walk your pet on grass or dirt when possible.

*Provide shade when your pet is outside on warm and hot days. Overheating Kills!

DONâT PUT YOUR PETS IN DANGERâ¦

Please DO NOT Leave Your Pet Unrestrained While Your Vehicle Is In Motion No
matter how well behaved, they are still a distraction.

During a 30 MPH collision a pet can exert a force of 20 times their bodyweight (5lb pet = 100lbs, 1200lbs for a 60lb dog!)

This also applies to anything else that is not properly tied down and will become a dangerous projectile, so for
everyoneâs safety including your pets please use a safety harness while your vehicle is in motion.

Other suggested items are a first aid kit, travel booklet containing all your pets information including photograph (s), vaccinations, veterinary information, emergency contacts, medications if any, diet and how to administer and any other information such as DO NOT LET OFF LEASH, ANIMAL BITES, PERSONALITY QUIRKS ETC. And microchip information if applicable.

You can also purchase a USB stick your pet can wear on their collarâ¦.in this day and age of computers who doesnât have one or access to one, the stick can also contain all pertinent information should your pet become separated from you or the vehicle carrying your information booklet.

Should my mom crate her puppies or sleep with them?

Anabelle R

My mom got 2 puppies of the same breed from 2 different litters, but they were born within a week of one another. She slept with them on the couch at first. Now they're both 9 weeks, going on 10 weeks. She crated them last night and they slept together fine. Tonight they seem a little more clingy. Ultimately, when they're big enough not to get hurt, she wants them to sleep on her bed, but for now she's concerned they'd fall off and hurt themselves, or heaven forbid, kill themselves as her bed is a bit high. So, should she crate them or continue sleeping on the couch with them? She feels guilty because they cry at times, but she doesn't want the dogs to be too clingy/co-dependant, and she's afraid that sleeping with them now, they might expect a spot on the bed all the time. I think they're safer in the crate until they know what they can't chew (like electrical wires or whatever). What do you think? I'd like to hear from breeders and dog owners who have had dogs for years (preferably well-behaved, socialized ones as my mom is hoping they'll become good, balanced dogs). Thanks. :)

Answer
Put the crate in the bedroom and leave a night light on so the puppies can see her.
I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:

*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.

*Outside, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.

*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.

*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do

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Dog car sickness. Road trip?

Claire S

My dog usually vomits in the car or drools a lot within 10 minutes of being in the car. In the summer, my family and I might take him on a 8-10 hour road trip with occasional stops.

He is a Brittany Spaniel (medium sized dog) and will be around 9 months old when we go.

If we take our dog, what will be comfortable for him to ride in? A crate will take up too much space in the car.

Thanks
We DO NOT plan on leaving our dog in the car.

He is micro chipped.

Answer
Never give the dog anything unless it is prescribed by your vet. Your best bet would be to start now getting your dog use to being in the car and make it as pleasant as possible. Start with short trips around your neighborhood five minutes maybe then increase to ten etc. Do this at least twice a day and as you increase the time and it doesn't get sick praise lavishly do not punish if it gets sick just stop for that day clean up the mess and decrease the time the next trip by a couple minutes eventually it should be able to tolerate it. Also as your vet, what you can bring with you should you need it. I use a harness that attaches to the seat belt, the dog should be in the back seat. This is what I use:usak9outfitters.com/autosafetygear.htm You may want to shop around for a water proof seat cover which we keep on our back seat to protect from dirt etc you could find one for about $20.

Here are a few other tips as you will be traveling in the summer:

PLEASE LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME IN HOT AND EVEN WARM WEATHER!

On an 85 degree day, it only takes minutes for the inside of your car reach 102 degrees even when the windows have been left open.

Within 30 minutes, a carâs interior can reach 120 degrees. When temperature outside is a pleasant 70 degrees the inside of your car maybe as much as 30 degrees hotter.

Shade offers little protection and moves with the sun. Pets at risk for hyperthermia (overheating) : young animals, elderly animals, overweight animals, those with short muzzles, and those with thick dark-colored coats.

A FORM OF CRUELTY âLITERALLYâ.

Many states and local governments have laws that prohibit leaving an animal unattended in a motor vehicle under dangerous conditions, which include warm and hot days. Under these laws, police, animal control agents, peace officers and others may be authorized to enter by whatever means necessary to remove the animal. You could have your car damaged, be charged with a crime, and fined or imprisoned. Its not worth it--donât leave your pet in the car!

HOT WEATHER TRAVELING TIPS:

*Get a veterinary checkup before traveling and make sure you have the necessary vaccination certificate for the area you will be visiting, as well as flea and tick treatments and heartworm preventative.

*Carry a gallon thermos of cold water or bring along a two-liter plastic bottle of water that you froze the night before.

*Exercise your pet during the coolest parts of the day (dawn and dusk), and never immediately following a meal.

*Hot asphalt and tar can burn sensitive paw pads. Walk your pet on grass or dirt when possible.

*Provide shade when your pet is outside on warm and hot days. Overheating Kills!

DONâT PUT YOUR PETS IN DANGERâ¦

Please DO NOT Leave Your Pet Unrestrained While Your Vehicle Is In Motion No
matter how well behaved, they are still a distraction.

During a 30 MPH collision a pet can exert a force of 20 times their bodyweight (5lb pet = 100lbs, 1200lbs for a 60lb dog!)

This also applies to anything else that is not properly tied down and will become a dangerous projectile, so for
everyoneâs safety including your pets please use a safety harness while your vehicle is in motion.

Other suggested items are a first aid kit, travel booklet containing all your pets information including photograph (s), vaccinations, veterinary information, emergency contacts, medications if any, diet and how to administer and any other information such as DO NOT LET OFF LEASH, ANIMAL BITES, PERSONALITY QUIRKS ETC. And microchip information if applicable.

You can also purchase a USB stick your pet can wear on their collarâ¦.in this day and age of computers who doesnât have one or access to one, the stick can also contain all pertinent information should your pet become separated from you or the vehicle carrying your information booklet.

Should my mom crate her puppies or sleep with them?

Anabelle R

My mom got 2 puppies of the same breed from 2 different litters, but they were born within a week of one another. She slept with them on the couch at first. Now they're both 9 weeks, going on 10 weeks. She crated them last night and they slept together fine. Tonight they seem a little more clingy. Ultimately, when they're big enough not to get hurt, she wants them to sleep on her bed, but for now she's concerned they'd fall off and hurt themselves, or heaven forbid, kill themselves as her bed is a bit high. So, should she crate them or continue sleeping on the couch with them? She feels guilty because they cry at times, but she doesn't want the dogs to be too clingy/co-dependant, and she's afraid that sleeping with them now, they might expect a spot on the bed all the time. I think they're safer in the crate until they know what they can't chew (like electrical wires or whatever). What do you think? I'd like to hear from breeders and dog owners who have had dogs for years (preferably well-behaved, socialized ones as my mom is hoping they'll become good, balanced dogs). Thanks. :)

Answer
Put the crate in the bedroom and leave a night light on so the puppies can see her.
I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:

*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.

*Outside, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.

*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.

*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do

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