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Rabu, 18 Juni 2014

Dog Problems - Need Help!!!?




Andrea


I got this dog from my cousin. I was told they simply did not have the time for him. My mom and brother warned me that he had severe behavior problems, nothing violent though. I took him anyway as it was me or the pound. For the first couple of weeks he was perfect. Never had any accidents, slept in my bed all night. About a month ago he started peeing all over whenever he got nervous or excited or scared. He gets up in the middle of the night, tips over my bin and eats the crotch out of dirty cloth diapers and eats out of the cat box... He has bitten me and my son. He will push my 7 month old daughter over to get to me and he'll sit on her if he can't move her. He is also extremely excitable, if I try to play with him he gets really rough and jumps around all over and bites hard even though he is just playing. He steals food off the counter, off of highchairs, from the garbage and even from my kids' hands. He is very skinny, he'll eat any and everything I give him no matter how much or how often, always still hungry but vet says he has no parasites.

Today he actually peed on the floor right in front of me twice, this is the first time he has intentionally peed on the floor, not over stimulated and had just been out. This occured just after having a bath.

He has made a little progress, he used to run away everytime I'd open the door. He hasn't tried to run off in a little over a week.

I do not know what could be causing these problems, I have tried for a month to address them and I am not able to. He is very smart, I taught him to shake within an hour and he does it well, he is VERY handsy. Even to the point of scratching me badly if I do not pet him long enough. Shake, sit, and cage are the only things he knows and I haven't been able to show him anything new. I have to go out of town this weekend to see some family, and I will have to take him will as his behavior is so out of control no one will dogsit for me.

He was a very good dog for awhile, so I know that he can be. I do not want to get rid of him but he will have to go for my family's sake if I can't alter his behavior.

Sorry so lengthy - Can anyone help?

ADDITIONALLY - He is very submissive, even rolls over on his back when scolded - he then pees on himself...
Okay - I thought I had written too much but I guess I haven't written enough. I badly want to help this dog. If I didnot he would be gone. I DO NOT know ANYONE who can help me. If I did I would ask them for help. I do not see how I have given enough information for anyone to decide I am making him nervous or sending him mixed signals. I have trained dogs before, my mother did it as a job so I grew up around it. She is unfortunately not here to help. I do not have them time, that is an acurate assement. I am willing to make the time. P.S. he is scared of going outside, our walks are miserable for him.
That would be helpful, does anyone know of any good sites. The ones I've read on all say different things. I guess I'm looking for someone who has experience with these problems. Also, I do not believe in treating them seperately, they could stem from a single problem... I just do not want to confuse him and make this harder. Also, where I live there is no help through the humae society. They are also untrustworthy. Last year I brought them a pregant cat I found and they made me feel like a criminal, finally telling me that they would take her and find her a home. One of the workers told me she was to be out to sleep in an hour's time even though she was pregnant. I had to fight them to get that cat back and find her a home myself. They do not seem like they are concerned with helping.
Socion - Thank you. I apologize if I have put you off. Your edit was helpful, you have provided me with plenty of information and I am greatful. I really was just looking for a person with similar experience to give advice for the hard going as it is very frustrating on my own. I have a lot to juggle and my family assumes that I can not help him. Your information was far more encouraging than being told a trainer or someone experienced should do it. After all, no one trained me to be a mother and I certainly wouldn't give my kids away to someone more experienced. Thanks much.



Answer
All those issues can be dealt with but is nearly as much work as having another child. Have the time? And do you want to spend the time...? The dog should really be with an experienced owner, an owner who realizes s/he needs to be knowledgeable *yesterday* and is willing to get on the ball, or an owner who has the means to pay a trainer. It's too many problems to even go into here, when there are lots of websites and books on training and canine behavior. Ask people to recommend some for you, or just google stuff yourself and start reading. Make a point to watch the show "It's Me or the Dog". The trainer addresses problems such as yours on every episode.

Has the dog been neutered? That should help a lot with the excitable peeing and some of the other issues as well. Is he getting at least one long daily walk -- the earlier in the day, the better? Dogs who can count on being taken for a daily walk usually don't try to escape on their own. Put the cat box high enough where he can't reach it. Put food, the trash bin, and the laundry hamper out of reach to remove the temptation until you can address each issue specifically. Make sure you are feeding a high-quality food but if that means switching brands, don't do it abruptly or else you'll be adding diarrhea to your list of problems.

You can ask a questions HERE about training and care websites. Or find some yourself. Just google. Look up tips for making his walks more enjoyable. He must like something about the outdoors or he wouldn't have been trying to escape. You might walk him with a treat in your hand, giving bits every so often to make it a pleasurable experience for him. Many people will tell you that regular obedience training will help your dog learn to trust you, thereby increasing his confidence. Is he expected to "sit" before he gets food or treats or a toy? Do you know how to be a "pack leader"? If he's sleeping in your bed and sitting on your sofa, I recommend you get him his own bed or a blanket or something for him to lay on the floor; confident leaders don't share their sleeping/relaxing space with subordinates who aren't clear on where they fit in the pack. Even a crate would be fine -- just don't use it as a substitute for proper training. But if he's been allowed to get on the furniture, don't just start shoving him off and yelling at him. TRAIN him! Show him what you expect, show him what his bed is for. Then if he tries to jump up on your furniture, tell him "ack-ack!". Block him with your body and command "off!" or "get back!". Dogs often use their body to correct other dogs with what is known as a "body check".

How to deal with the biting could depend on several things. Is he biting because he's playing too roughly and wasn't taught bite inhibition when he was younger? Is he biting to try to keep you in line? Is he biting out of a perceived need to protect someone or something? Is he unable to get away from your child when he wants to? A crate left open during the day is a good place for a doggy to retreat from rambunctious children.

Dogs rarely do anything without a reason, even if that reason isn't clear to you. There is only enough space and time here to get you thinking about possible solutions to your problems. He's your dog and it's up to you to make the effort to understand canine behavior, and to find and implement solutions that work for you. You should also learn everything you can about the breed.

Here are just a couple of sites with articles on various topics...


http://www.canismajor.com/dog/ttrain.html

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/taskdt.html

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/care.htm


They could stem from a single problem and that most likely is a failure of the humans in his life to understand canine behavior and how to properly raise a dog.

There is no magic wand someone can wave and fix everything. But also remember, there is no such thing as a perfectly-trained dog. Just start making some positive changes, and keep at it. If he's not trained to "sit", all you have to do is come to him with a food bowl or treat and just stand there. He may wiggle and jump around, but he's not going to go anywhere. And he's not stupid; eventually his rear will hit the floor. The instant it does, say the command "sit!" and give him the food.

Teach him to fetch. It's simple to do and good exercise for him. Throw a ball or his favorite toy toward a barrier such as a wall or fence .That way when he retrieves it, he'll have to run back by you. When he runs near you with the toy, let him see you drop a few bits of kibble at your feet. The instant he drops the toy to eat the food, give the command, "go fetch". Have a few sessions of several repetitions and he will be conditioned to fetch.

If he jumps on you, walk into (toward) him; you will be invading his space like a leader should do, and it should also take him off balance enough to discourage the jumping.

If you need a method of discipline, put pennies in an empty Coke can and seal the top with tape. Then shake the can to interrupt him if he's trying to scrounge in something he shouldn't. This technique is called sound diversion. Or simply remove the item, tell him "no" and give him something that is acceptable, such as one of his toys.

For the worst or most persistent behavior, such as growling at you or pestering you for attention, tell him "get back!" and lead him by the collar (or a short lead you've left attached to his collar) to a dark empty room, a closet even, and shut him in it for a few minutes. You don't need to jerk him or lose your temper. The isolation will be bad enough. If he resumes the behavior when you let him out, back to the closet he goes for another couple minutes....Soon, your patience and consistency will pay off. He will learn what get back means. But be fair. If he hasn't had adequate exercise, how can you blame him for being overactive?

If he bites you when you're playing, yelp a high-pitched "OW!" and stop the play. Completely ignore him for a few minutes.

Do take the time to read this article, and good luck:

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/articles/humandog.htm

Prepared for new dog?

Q. I recently acquired a new homeless dog to help fill the emptiness left by a previous dog. I have the following:
collar
leash
dishes x2
Covered bed
food/water
love and affection for the newcomer

Anything else
It's just a stray. It's no longer a puppy
oh my, god!!! He's gone. He ran away!! *cries* He's a beagle and he ran off.
he came back


Answer
Full list:
Wire or plastic dog crate
Easily washable, hard-to-destroy bedding material, imitation sheepskin works well§ tip-proof, stainless steel or hard plastic food & water dishes.
Buckle puppy collar & lead; I like the soft braided nylon types.
ID Tag with your phone number to wear on the collar
a collection of high quality, safe chew toys: Puppy Nylabones, Cressite rubber balls or bones and sturdy stuffed squeak toys.
grooming supplies: ask your breeder for recommendations
a quality brand of dry puppy food.
"Bitter Apple", a safe spray-on product to discourage chewing on inappropriate objects.
a wire, wooden or plastic âbaby gateâ for blocking doorways.
a good book on puppy care & training . Read through them before bringing your puppy home.




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Senin, 12 Mei 2014

Dog costs?




bree_1384


My boyfriend and I are really considering adopting a puppy in a few weeks. I was wondering what the monthly costs would average. I know there are vet fees, food, snacks, toys ect. I just wanted some advice from a dog owner that could tell us alittle but more what to expect finacially. And if there are any breeds that we should or shouldn't look at it. Thanks :)
Thanks for the great answers so far... I keep getting more and more excited!
Some more details... we do live in an apartment but do have a nice grassy yard to play with the puppy. We do not want a pure breed high maintance dog... we want a cute furry family pet... again a medium sized dog is what we will be looking at. Thanks for all your information...
more details... we want a puppy so that we can train "it" the way we want, we both do work but only 8 miles from where we live so checking on the puppy throughout the day is not biggy. I work 8 to 4 and my boyfriend works either 9 to 6 or 12:30 to 9... so the puppy would be alone sometimes but again we would check on it during the day. It will defnitly get plenty of attention.



Answer
Well you have the cost of the dog. From a rescue, expect anywhere from $50 to $500 (generally not this high but some purebred rare breeds may be). From a reputable breeder, $500-$1500 depending on breed and quality of pups, parents, titles earned by parents, and health tests done. They may have a returned dog or retired one for less but I'll stick with new puppy price. Skip the pet shops. Some do have healthy puppies but many of those pups come from puppy mills. You'll get better quality for the same price or less from a reputable breeder anyway.

Food can be as low at $10 a month for low-quality food for a small dog (please use good food) up to $200 a month for quality food for a giant breed dog. Let's assume you have a medium sized breed with high quality food and $75.

Toys initially would probably be $30 at least. Make sure the toys are breed apropriate. A tiny ball is not a dane toy and a giant one is no good to a chihuahua. Avoid toys that can fit to the back of the mouth as these are choking hazzards.

The essentials: leash, collar, bowls, and a license. $35

Shots and well-puppy check can REALLY vary but let's say $100. GET THE WELL PUPPY CHECK! It isn't much if you do it when you get shots and can save you alot of heartache later. If your puppy is not healthy, your breeder's contract should cover that (this is why I recommend contracts that allow you the choice of keeping the pup with a partial refund or returning the pup for a replacement). If it came from a rescue, you will need to ask them what they do about that. All shelters are different. Some say oh well, some require the pup returned, some return the adoption fee...

Obedience classes if you choose to go can also vary but let's go with $150. Look up my other answers and you will find a list of questions to ask a trainer before trusting him/her with your puppy's future.

Spay/neuter if you choose to can also vary. A shelter pup will already be altered. $150

Crate if you crate train (I highly recommend crate training but remember that your puppy's place is with YOU, not living in his/her crate). This will depend on dog size again ($30-$250 for a standard type crate) but I'll assume medium sized dog. $100

Adding up the essentials - $740 (assuming a $500 dog so you can adjust from there)

With the extras - $1140 (subtract any of the last three if you will not be using it)

Monthly maintainence can be figured out using the numbers given. Less than $100 more than likely unless you have a giant breed.

Remember that this is just a rough estimate and it can easily be higher or lower. This does not include any meds you may choose to use monthly (I choose not to but this choice is for owner and is very much determined by the area you live in). Don't forget to keep emergency vet care in mind. BTW I DID NOT add in grooming supplies as those will depend on the breed you select.

Well that makes things easier. Look for an aussie (Austrailian Shepherd) or aussie mix. Mature between 45 and 60 lbs (females smaller than males). Energy level is moderate to high depending on the dog. Medium length double coat, variety of colors (DO NOT GET A LETHAL WHITE/DOUBLE MERLE), and very friendly personality though they WILL defend their family. Not too high maintainence though they will have a major shed once or twice a year. You can find a purebred at a breed rescue or just look on petfinder. The purebreds are no more high maintainence than the mixes but the adoption fee may be higher.

housetraing dogs?




wendinella





Answer
Hi,

Housetraining is a MUST. You want to have a polite dog that knows the rules in your house and does not cause you the trouble of cleaning a mess all the time (it's not fun especially if you have the carpets;)).

Dogs are very clean animals and they do not like to make a mess in their dens in the wild and they are not happy to have a mess around them in the house either. As a dog owner it is your responsibility to teach your pooch about the basic rules in the house. Housebreaking (or housetraining) when done properly will take about a week (depending on an owner's consistency, patience, persistance, routine, etc.).

I've known people who never took the time (which is not that long at all) to housetrain their dogs and it caused a lot of frustration in the owners later on...The best thing is to housetrain your dog as soon as you get him/her.

Here are a few things that might be helpful to know about housetraining:

1. Set a schedule for your dog. Dogs LOVE to have a routine. Feed your puppy the same time every day. Don't give him the water before he goes to sleep at night.

2. Make sure you're feeding your pup the highest quality food. Premium foods may be more expensive, but it is much more digestable than grocery store brands. The puppy eats less and eliminates less often which make the housebreaking process much easier. You will also have a healthier dog.

3. The second puppy wakes up in the morning take him on a leash outside to the area you have chose to be his toilet. Keep your clothes ready and do not fool around getting him outside. If you wait until you have your coffee and breakfast to take him outside, you are forcing him to lose control of himself.

4. Make it clear that this walk is pure business, not fun and pleasure. You can give a command like "Do your business". Keep the voice low and don't excite your dog - it's a serious business. The second your puppy starts to eliminate - PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!:) After he's done eliminating, take him away from the elimination area and have a playtime as a reward.

5. It is easier and more eficient to praise your dog for going in one spot than to punish him for going in thousand different spots.
I always take my dog to the same spot right at the side of my house and when she's done she gets her walk as a reward. It is easier to pick everything up and usually I do not have to pick anything up during a walk.

6. Sensitize yourself to your dog's body language. Your puppy needs to eliminate:

- after a meal
- after a nap
- after a play session
- if he begins circling and sniffing

7. Do not leave your puppy alone in the house where you cannot see him. If you're not actively playing with him, put him in his crate (but not for longer than 4 hours!).

8. A crate should never be used as punishment. It is supposed to be your dog's safe place , his den and by using a crate as a punishment you'll make your dog to have a negative connotation with his crate. Crate is VERY useful in teaching your puppy the housebreaking rules. Dogs do not like to mess their dens and want to keep it clean.

9. Never yell at your dog. If you catch your puppy in the ACT of eliminating (which you will if he's leashed to your belt), say "NO" in a low, stern voice and run him outside. There is no need to yell at the puppy - it would make him voice shy.

10. Give him an opportunity to finish his job. When he does, PRAISE him and reward him (for example with a play session).

11. Return to the house. Don't let your pup see you clean up the mess. Clean the mess with a commercial odor neutralizer. It's important that your puppy cannot smell those spots. The smell of the places where he eliminated before will only encourage him to do it again there. It is the dogs' instinct and he's not trying to be mallicious by eliminating in the house where he can still smell the old eliminating areas.

12. Remember - it is NEVER to late to teach your dog about eliminating in the proper areas and with patience and consistency you can do it pretty quickly!

Alex

Source(s):
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
http://www.cuhumane.org/topics/housebr.h...
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/woof/tips/tip_13...




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Jumat, 24 Januari 2014

do dogs who get raw meaty bones 3x a week need to get their teeth brushed?

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Q. i feed my dog a high quality kibble as well as raw meaty bones 3 x a week which are supposed to do a great job at keeping plaque and tartar off the teeth and was wondering if this is good enough for dental care? i mean my dog doesn't let anyone brush his teeth so how do you think the two compare? is raw meaty bones just as good?
i dont think wolves got their teeth brushed


Answer
I have never brushed one of my dogs teeth once, and I have never had to have their teeth cleaned once either.

My dogs chew on big ol' knuckle bones for 30 min every day. It's just part of our morning ritual. After they eat... they run outside for about 15 min.. come zooming back in...and pile into their crates. They settle into some serious chewing. When the timer goes off at the 30 min mark... they stand up because they know I'm coming.

I pick up their bones, and we do this day after day... month after month. During the dogs routine annual check-ups the vet always examines their teeth and states they are "good to go".

Works for me!
.

What breed of dogs is good for a family?




Alan R


My father recently passed away and my family is looking for a dog that is good with children and strangers and other dogs but will protect our family at night or from intruders

also we would like it if the dog didnt shed much (minimally)



Answer
Hi there!

Personally I have chosen a golden retriever - actually, I have 23 goldens and golden mixes! And while breed is very important, it's temperament that is truly the issue.

Mixed breeds, goldens, dachshunds, and many other breeds can and will make wonderful family pets. I've even seen rotties make amazing family pets (I have one of those, too!) - it's really all in the personality and the raising (the way you treat and train them) that makes the difference. I've had mutts become my 'Soul Dog' and steal my heart - it doesn't always matter what the breed is, but it always matters how they take to you and respond to you from the moment you lay your eyes on them.

Also, you need to consider the following questions in your search for the best breed for you and your family:

1.) Your child's/children's age, maturity level and ability to handle the additional responsibility

2.) The size of your home and yard (fenced in or not, near heavy traffic, other dogs nearby, pet deposit, carpets or hardwood floors, do you have a dog door to a fenced in yard, etc.)

3.) The time you will have to spend with your new family member to train, socialize, groom and love them (will someone be there during the day, will they be crated while you are gone, do they have access to food/water/outside, does someone have time to walk them or take them to the park or pet store to socialize, etc.)

4.) The amount of money you are willing to spend (some breeds cost more to buy, feed and maintain, or are you looking to adopt/rescue? Can you afford their shots, healthy and high quality food, bed, toys, training, grooming, etc.)

5.) Any allergies in the family (to dust, pet dander, hair, etc.)

6.) Male or female (temperaments are different per breed based on sex and even hair length - for instance, my mother has 7 mini dachshunds, 4 short hair & 3 long hair - the personality traits of the short haired are different than the long haired. She also finds her dachshunds to be more difficult to train than I have found my goldens and golden mixes to be!) Also, you will want to get them 'fixed' by the time they are 1 - this helps with aggression, mess, personality and over-population.

7.) Do you have other pets (of any kind) or plan on getting other pets in the future?


If you can answer some of the above questions, we can get a better idea of what you are looking for and need, and that way we can help you find the best breed(s) for you and your family!

After all, there is nothing worse than getting a dog based on someone else's suggestion, or the way it looks, or just that it happened to be free and there in front of you, then finding out that dog (and breed) is not want you want/need/can handle, and having to find it a new home or give it to the pound to be killed (or worse yet, have it injure a family member or another pet!)

I hope this helps, and I would love to help in any way I can - just ask!

Warmly,
Michele
www.AGirlAndHerDogs.com




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Sabtu, 20 Juli 2013

What are your favorite dog products and what do they cost?

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Anonymous


Heres a list of what I need :

-Shampoo
-Treats
-Brush
-Dog Deodorizer
-Food
-Toys

I am writing an essay to my parents and I need costs for a Shih Tzu puppy I hope to get.



Answer
Hartz has a line of combs and brushes (I LOVE the large slicker brush) that are as high a quality as the best ones you can buy but cost around $2.59 each. I recommend a slicker, a rake and a pin brush.

Shampoo: My favorite is Pure Pearl by PurePet. $9 a 12 oz bottle but it dilutes w/ water at 20:1 so a very good buy and very gentle.

Food: Premium brand.. probably $15 for a small bag

Treats: I like to use ANOTHER premium brand of dogfood as cookies.. or cat food. Also itty bitty bits of cut up leftovers make good training treats.

Toys: Kong $9. Stuffies (I get mine at garage sales) plastic soda bottles w/ rings/lids/labels removed.

I've never used a deodorizer.. mostly because my dogs eat high quality food.

For cleaning up: Simple Solution available at Petco and PetSmart $25 for a gallon (put it in a spray bottle to use).

Crate: for a small dog $20-40.

Training classes: $100

Well-puppy care: Vet visits- $250 for first year.

How old are you? Please take into account that the dog will probably live to 12-16 years of age.. where will YOU be in 8 years (college? finding an apartment?) and are your parents willing to be stuck with your dog? My daughter's father was unwilling to keep her then 17 year old cat when she left for college... she had to fly the cat out to me.

What breed of dogs is good for a family?




Alan R


My father recently passed away and my family is looking for a dog that is good with children and strangers and other dogs but will protect our family at night or from intruders

also we would like it if the dog didnt shed much (minimally)



Answer
Hi there!

Personally I have chosen a golden retriever - actually, I have 23 goldens and golden mixes! And while breed is very important, it's temperament that is truly the issue.

Mixed breeds, goldens, dachshunds, and many other breeds can and will make wonderful family pets. I've even seen rotties make amazing family pets (I have one of those, too!) - it's really all in the personality and the raising (the way you treat and train them) that makes the difference. I've had mutts become my 'Soul Dog' and steal my heart - it doesn't always matter what the breed is, but it always matters how they take to you and respond to you from the moment you lay your eyes on them.

Also, you need to consider the following questions in your search for the best breed for you and your family:

1.) Your child's/children's age, maturity level and ability to handle the additional responsibility

2.) The size of your home and yard (fenced in or not, near heavy traffic, other dogs nearby, pet deposit, carpets or hardwood floors, do you have a dog door to a fenced in yard, etc.)

3.) The time you will have to spend with your new family member to train, socialize, groom and love them (will someone be there during the day, will they be crated while you are gone, do they have access to food/water/outside, does someone have time to walk them or take them to the park or pet store to socialize, etc.)

4.) The amount of money you are willing to spend (some breeds cost more to buy, feed and maintain, or are you looking to adopt/rescue? Can you afford their shots, healthy and high quality food, bed, toys, training, grooming, etc.)

5.) Any allergies in the family (to dust, pet dander, hair, etc.)

6.) Male or female (temperaments are different per breed based on sex and even hair length - for instance, my mother has 7 mini dachshunds, 4 short hair & 3 long hair - the personality traits of the short haired are different than the long haired. She also finds her dachshunds to be more difficult to train than I have found my goldens and golden mixes to be!) Also, you will want to get them 'fixed' by the time they are 1 - this helps with aggression, mess, personality and over-population.

7.) Do you have other pets (of any kind) or plan on getting other pets in the future?


If you can answer some of the above questions, we can get a better idea of what you are looking for and need, and that way we can help you find the best breed(s) for you and your family!

After all, there is nothing worse than getting a dog based on someone else's suggestion, or the way it looks, or just that it happened to be free and there in front of you, then finding out that dog (and breed) is not want you want/need/can handle, and having to find it a new home or give it to the pound to be killed (or worse yet, have it injure a family member or another pet!)

I hope this helps, and I would love to help in any way I can - just ask!

Warmly,
Michele
www.AGirlAndHerDogs.com




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Sabtu, 06 Juli 2013

What are a list of items to purchase for a first time puppy owner?

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Sarah Beth


I'm adopting a baby boy puggle (mix between pug and beagle) at the beginning of January. I have not owned a dog since I was 5 years old and was wondering if you could give me a list of items I need to purchase before he arrives home. I've found some ideas online and in books but wanted to see what you guys had to say!


Answer
What you'll need
Get the supplies and equipment you'll need. Here's a list:

Wire or plastic dog crate
Easily washable, hard-to-destroy bedding material, imitation sheepskin works well§ tip-proof, stainless steel or hard plastic food & water dishes.
Buckle puppy collar & lead; I like the soft braided nylon types.
ID Tag with your phone number to wear on the collar
a collection of high quality, safe chew toys: Puppy Nylabones, Cressite rubber balls or bones and sturdy stuffed squeak toys.
grooming supplies: ask your breeder for recommendations
a quality brand of dry puppy food.
"Bitter Apple", a safe spray-on product to discourage chewing on inappropriate objects.
a wire, wooden or plastic âbaby gateâ for blocking doorways.
a good book on puppy care & training . Read through them before bringing your puppy home.

Puppy-proof your home.
Raising a puppy is a lot like raising small children -- they get into everything! Some of what they get into can be hazardous to their health or to your possessions. You can make life safer for the puppy and your furniture by getting rid of hazards and temptations ahead of time.

To a puppy, the world is brand new and fascinating! He's seeing it all for the very first time and absolutely everything must be thoroughly investigated. Puppies do most of their investigating with their mouths -- "Look at this! What is it? Something to eat? Something to play with?" Murphy's Law says that a puppy will be most attracted to the things he should least have -- electrical cords, the fringe on your expensive oriental rug, your brand new running shoes, etc.

Preventing destructive and dangerous chewing is easier than trying to correct the puppy every second. Look around your home. What objects could be put up out of the way of a curious puppy? Bitter Apple spray can be applied to furniture legs, woodwork and other immovable items. Are there rooms your puppy should be restricted from entering until he's better trained and more reliable? Install a baby gate or keep the doors to those rooms closed.

Take a walk around your yard looking for potential hazards. If your yard is fenced, check the boundaries and gates for openings that could be potential escape routes. Puppies can get through smaller places than an adult dog. If your yard's not fenced, make a resolution right now that your puppy will never be allowed to run off lead without close supervision. He won't ever know enough to look both ways before crossing the street to chase a squirrel. Keep him safe by keeping him on leash!

Everybody needs their own place
Decide where to put the dog crate, and have it set up and ready for his arrival. Where to keep the crate will depend on what's most convenient for you as well as the puppy's response. Many puppies don't like to be isolated in one part of the house while their family is in another but some puppies won't settled down in their crates if there's too much activity going on around them. You might have to experiment with different locations until you learn what works best for both you and the puppy.

Congrats on the new family member !!
Best of Luck

What supplies do I need to buy for a new puppy?




Fairy Jenn


I have never had a dog before, but we are planning to buy one. Can anyone provide a list of items we need to buy before introducing the puppy to our house? We have no idea, other than food, what other things we should buy.


Answer
- food & water bowls

- flat collar & leash (I recommend Lupine, they are guaranteed even if chewed: http://lupinepet.com/ )
-- id tag in case your pet gets lost

- grooming supplies, which vary based on your breed
-- dog shampoo
-- dog toothbrush
-- dog toothpaste
-- toenail clippers
-- bristle brush or slicker brush
-- comb (optional)

- toys
-- kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/
-- a squeaker toy
-- a chew toy
-- a cuddle toy
-- a tug toy

- treats

- crate

- bed

- pet stain cleaner for accidents in the house during housebreaking

- bitter apple spray to deter chewing (note: only about 50% of dogs actually respond to bitter apple spray. many of them actually LIKE the taste of it. in that case, use pepper instead.)

- quality pet food (see below)


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On choosing a dog food:
Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. (Or in your case, the puppy food counterpart of the brand you choose). A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.

Here is an article about byproducts:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd

And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients

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Some GOOD foods are :
* Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
* Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
* Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
* Timberwolf - http://timberwolforganics.com/
* Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/orijen/
* Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/
* Chicken Soup brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
* Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
* Innova EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp

Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
(I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)

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Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, Purina, etc.)

Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)

Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.

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When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
25% food A, 75% food B
50% food A, 50% food B
75% food A, 25% food B
100% food A




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