Outside, VS, Crate,,?

Q. This is a repost, I
Info: my dog is a cattle dog x gsd x whatever else
short coat
around 50lbs
1.5 yrs

my backyard is medium-large sized, 6ft fence
in the backyard is a covered 10x6x6 kennel w/ a insulated dog house inside.
she has got out of the backyard probably 5 times in her life, and every time I see the problem and can fix it.

her crate is a large size, i think? standard wire crate.

Lately I've been keeping her inside all night/more in the day, because of the weather.
But I don't want her in the house unsupervised, bc there are many thinks she could get into that are either dangerous or expensive. So when I am gone for a couple hours, in the shower, taking a nap or whatever I put her outside.

Yesterday she somehow got out of the backyard. The gate was opened, and she was running around the front yard chasing leaves. She had been out for 20-30 minutes, and I still dont' know how she got the gate open! Because of that, I've been paranoid about letting her out at all.

My question: would leaving her in the crate when I am gone instead of outside be too cruel? I feel like it would be safer, but I'm sure she would be unhappy and miss the freedom. D:

Answer
Cattle dogs (and cattle dog mixes) tend to be UNcommonly smart. They learn to do things like open gates. Maybe a padlock on the gate would help? You're lucky she didn't decide to herd cars..!

I always kept my cattle dog indoors when I went out (when she wasn't going with me). I never had a problem with any form of destructiveness or breakage. If you could install a concrete floored, securely covered, large chain link dog run with a padlocked gate and that insulated dog house (does she use it?), she might stay safer than being loose in the yard. Last time she opened the gate. Next time she might find a way over (or through or under) the fence. I don't advocate leaving a dog in a run for long periods but a run *can* save a dog's life, and you do what you have to do.

You could also close off rooms you don't want her in (indoors), using doors and TALL baby gates, maybe move a few things, or even limit her to one room (not the bathroom, she'll try to chew or dig out), and leave her for 5 minutes, see how she does. If she does OK, you can try leaving her for 10 minutes next time, then 15, 20, 25, and so on. Providing a stuffed Kong toy can help as most destructive activity happens shortly after the owner leaves. This way, she learns that you're coming back and to be OK alone.

Plastic Kennel vs. Metal Wire Crates for Golden Retriever pup.?

Rasta Love

Should i get the kennel or crate for golden retriever pup. Is it ok to buy a adult size crate/kennel because the pup is eventually going to grow up and dont want to buy another.

Answer
Wire. The wire ones come with a divider, so when the dog is a pup you can make the crate smaller, and make it larger as the dog grows, so you don't have to buy multiple crate as your pup grows!

The plastic ones, in my experience/opinion, are too confining, and not as sturdy.

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Plastic Kennel vs. Metal Wire Crates for Golden Retriever pup.?

Rasta Love

Should i get the kennel or crate for golden retriever pup. Is it ok to buy a adult size crate/kennel because the pup is eventually going to grow up and dont want to buy another.

Answer
Wire. The wire ones come with a divider, so when the dog is a pup you can make the crate smaller, and make it larger as the dog grows, so you don't have to buy multiple crate as your pup grows!

The plastic ones, in my experience/opinion, are too confining, and not as sturdy.

New dogs possible problems..?

BBChevy

a friend of my wifes is going through a rocky divorce and neither want the dogs so my wife is going to get their Iris Setter and Golden Retriever tommorrow they both are 10 months to a year old.. however my wife and I already have 4 dogs.. 7 year old German Shorthair, 4 year old Weimaraner, 3 year old Vizla, and a 13 week old English Pointer...

We have plenty of land for them to play.. 8 acres fenced in and a pool.. we converted one bedroom of the house to a semi kennel with dog hammocks.. but the problem i'm facing is.. out german shorthair is the dominant dog.. and he's fine with out orhter dogs.. but when brought around strange and older dogs he gets very protective.. what should i do when my wife brings these two dogs home should i try to stay with all the dogs as long as possible.. or immediately seperate my dogs from the new ones until they become used to the new scent and everything
sorry for the fuss.. we got the dogs today.. and with both of them still being puppies my german shorthair didn't much care for them.. and even let them nibble around his mouth and ears.. he didn't much play with them but the weim and vizla played with them for a while..

i have both the irish setter and golden retriever in cages at night because their not quite potty trained, but everything seems fine, also all of my dogs including the two new ones aren't neutered.. as i breed my dogs up to 4 times a year due to their great lineage.. i'm not to sure on the new ones but they both have AKC paperwork (not yet completed unfortunately but they don't really have names yet either) although i'm still uncomfortable leaving them all together when i'm not around.. my dogs are very well trained but get protective of my wife.. so we'll see how that goes tommorrow/tonight while i'm at work
also just for the record.. i don't believe in altering dogs such as docking their ears or tail.. i don't neuter my dogs as i find (from growing up experience) dogs neutered were generally more irritable and with hopefully having a kid in the next few years so.. also i don't like cage training because my dogs don't sleep through the night as one of them gets up to roam the house before returning to their hammock.. and it's worked out well and stopped one attempted burglary about a year ago.. i'm by far not new to raising puppies.. since birth i've always had atleast a dog at home and my dogs are great with my nephews and nieces.. althought fiercly protective of them when a stranger approaches (sorry fed ex) but the weim and vizla don't bark until the german does.. although they do hunt in a pack as i've watched the vizla flush a rabbit while the weim and german ambushed and killed.. (weird i know.. no hunting training involved)

Answer
1) Please thoroughly exercise yoru GSP before he meets the new dogs. Exercise lowers stress.

2) You need to introduce them in a neutral location (NOT your yard, not their yard). And probably not in a pack format, but one or two dogs at a time. If you can't pull this off, just take your GSP & intro him to the others off lead, in a neutral location. It might be best to use a muzzle.

The Dog Whisper often tackles this issue, so you may be able to see some videos online from his show. He often suggests getting the two dogs walking the same direction together or within 5 feet of each other, and at a faster-than-normal, pace. You will need the owner or a friend to walk at least one of the new dogs with you walking your GSP. I think I also have some links which may be helpful.

You don't say whether your GSP is neutered or not. If he's not, you might want to consider that and if the newbies are not fixed, please consider doing them. This is not an anti-breeding rant, just that intact dogs are more likely to fight, than neutered ones. Be on high alert for inappropriate marking. This is not just because you have male dogs, but sometimes when things change in a home, a dog who is insecure... may be more likely to start marking indoors.

If ths doesn't seem to work out, please consider contacting purebred rescue for these breeds. Many Golden Ret clubs do it, but if they are overpopulated (due to the bad economy) it may be easier to find a home for the Irish, if the original breeder won't take them back (do check). They are far less popular nowadays, so fewer need homes.

PS Ask for the reg. papers and ask for detailed information like: the vet's phone number & their vet records, what heartworm prevention they're on, when they last got it and shots, what type of food they are eating currently. Ask for bedding and toys.

It is too bad yours don't seem to be crate-trained. It would be easier to crate ALL of them, rather than hope they all settle into "hammocks". (Also safer to feed them in crates, vs loose.) Food is THE biggest trigger for fights, followed by toys.) Yes, your dogs are okay with the hammocks (I guess) but the newbies, are going to be used to something else. Confinement and dog separation may be very important to your new living situation. Almost all dogs can settle quickly into "A" crate, if crate-trained.

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Great Dane potty training tips?

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Mikayla S

Alan is almost 11 weeks. He's awesome. The only trouble I've been having is potty training and some biting issues. I would just like tips, advice, normal behavior vs when I should seek professional help. Just give me your feedback!
also... what are good toys you suggest giving a large fast growing breed such as a dane. he already has a kong but shows no interest in it. Other than stuffed animals, because he really likes those. I just don't feel like he listens to my voice when I say "NO." very firmly. He'll just kind of look at me and then continue what he is doing

Answer
For my Dane we went straight to crate training. If you pup sleeps in a small kennel (by small I mean he has just enough room to lay down comfortably) then he should stop peeing. Dogs don't pee where they sleep if they can help it. Also, take him out A LOT and when he pees act like he just won the lottery for you. He'll start to realize that if he pees outside he'll be rewarded. My dog caught on to this very quickly and now that she's 2 years old I can take her outside, say "Do you job" and she happily pees :) Some people don't like crate training because the dog looks "sad", but in reality they are much more comfortable with having a place that is exclusively theirs. In my apt I have two couches, a fluffy carpet, and a full size bed, but my Dane will still chose her kennel over all those if she wants to be left alone. If your dog continues to pee in the middle of the night consider putting the water bowl out of reach an hour before you go to bed. Then he can't refuel before you go to sleep!

For a while my Dane was unaffected by "NO" as well so I started having to flick her on the nose. Obviously it didn't hurt her but it showed her I was mad and that seemed to upset her more. If you have a distinct difference between praise and scolding you shouldn't have a problem. My sister would tell my dog "NO" like she was having a casual conversation, then wonder why she didn't get a response. You have to make praise the most exciting thing in the world and scolding the loudest most uncomfortable thing. Good Luck! Danes can be clever so watch out!

Best kind of dog for my lifestyle?

Sam Jones

I'm really excited, i plan on getting a dog for Christmas. but i still haven't been able to decided on a certain breed. Please do not leave answers saying only adopt. Adoption is not out of the question, but i may buy a certain breed.

I need a dog that:
* Does not shed much
* Small size (full grown)
* Can stay in a crate/ kennel whale i am gone during the day 8 hours

Answer
Well, I find that most small dogs are much higher maintenance. This means they need more attention. So in short, the smaller your dog is the worse it is for the dog to be locked up for long periods of time.

I for one frown at crates heavily as a means of frequent containment. Leaving a dog in a crate 8 hours a day religiously, also means your likely to do it 8 hours every night as well. Which means your putting 2/3rds of the dog's life to waste. And I extremely doubt you would be willing to devote the last 8 hours exclusively to the dog, so your gonna have a dog thats gonna likely be depressed and obese..

I strongly suggest using the crate as a training method. Ive had many breeders tell me that house breaking a dog is a month long proccess for more dogs. My newest puppy, I did so in 4 days. The crate is a great tool, for training not storage. I strongly request you house break your dog, then leave them out in a restricted area. Even if you lock them in a vacant bedroom vs a crate, it will make a huge difference on the dog's emotional state and overall health.


Now that my ranting is out of the way, to answer your original question. The Shetland Sheapdog, or Shelty for short. They top out at about 25 pounds, look like miniture collies. Sadly they do shed much, but given your other criteria this is gonna be the best match. They are small, easy to please, but once offended/abused they are not likely to forget soon.

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Do you need to have a health certificate for a dog?

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Nevakiss

In August we are moving to Korea to be with my Husband on a command sponsored tour, Do we need to obtain a health certificate for our dog? And do we have to pay for the dogs travel?
Thanks Dina, that site was very helpful! :D But on the travel expense of our pet, doesnt the military provide the travel expenses just not the care expense?

Answer
Yes, you will need to obtain a USDA/APHIS United States Interstate an International Certificate of Health Examination for Small Animals (APHIS Form 7001). The form isn't available online for download as it is in sextuplicate and the forms are numbered. It is only good for 10 days from the date stamped. You will also need a current rabies certificate. The rabies shot must be given more than 30 days before entering the country, but less than a year; South Korea does not recognize 3 year rabies certificates.

Not all vets (in the US) are USDA accredited to use the USDA form (APHIS Form 7001). You will need to call your vet to specifically ask about authorization. They will have a letter of authorization from the Area Veterinarian in Charge for that specific State. Your other option is to call the office of the Veterinary Services Area Veterinarian in Charge or the office of the State Veterinarian in your State to verify if a specific veterinarian is accredited or to obtain a list of accredited veterinarians in your area. The list is available at http://www.aphis.usda.gov/import_export/downloads/vsavic.pdf

The offices listed in the .pdf are where you then need to take or mail the form to get the actual seal affixed. If you are military, base vets are all accredited and most states allow them to possess/use the seal (which will save you a trip to the USDA office).

Current endorsement fees are $35.00 for the first animal and $6.25 for each additional animal listed on the form. Fees are scheduled to increase October 1, 2010. Fee info is near the bottom of the page. http://www.aphis.usda.gov/mrpbs/fmd/vs_import_export_fees.shtml#13020

They do also list the cost of endorsement fees if you need them signed outside of normal business hours (after hours/weekends/holidays). It also has the fee schedule for those going to England/EU/Japan or any country that requires a FAVN.

As for travel costs, no, the military will not pay for their travel and you should be aware that it is generally 2-3X more expensive to ship animals back to the US. You can, however, deduct them on your income taxes as part of moving expenses.

Most of the airlines have heat embargoes in effect for checked baggage and cargo pets from June through September as the temps will be above 85 degrees. Additionally, most of the Asian airlines (including KAL) will not accept the pet as checked baggage if the total weight of the dog (in the crate) is 70 pounds or more; it will have to go as cargo (which means additional fees will be collected at the quarantine office at ICN as well as being more expensive than checked baggage fees).

As long as your dog's rabies vax is within the stated time frame, the animal will not be quarantined. The same basically applies to animals going back to the US from Korea, except that instead of the APHIS form, you will get the Korean version.

If you are flying over with the MM, you will need to make arrangements at one of the base kennels as base lodging (like the Dragon Hill Lodge at Yongsan) do not allow pets. You should also be aware that some base housing is no-pets which means you will have to request a waiver to live off post.

What all do I need to bring home a new puppy?

Charlie

I'm bringing home my Alaskan malamute puppy in 2 weeks. I'm going shopping tomorrow and I need help coming up with a list. I know the basics but what are things that will come in handy that are east to forget?

Answer
This should've all been done months ago...

What is currently on your shopping list?
I am guessing you are buying, please correct me if I am wrong, but why not ask the breeder this?

You will need:
Leashes particularly one to put around your waist as the puppy learns how to go outside and you learn how to recognize the pups gotta go signs
Collars(preferably martingales)
nail trimmers
quickstop although flour or other powders work just as well
Dremel (introduce early and with positive associations)
Food(what are you planning to feed? if you say anything by purina, what the vet recommends, iams/eukanuba, grocery store/dollar store, Science diet, royal canin, etc., you need to visit this site: www.dogfoodproject.com and make sure kibble is what you really want to feed, then visit this site: www.rawmeatybones.com to make sure you know about raw feeding should you ever decide to feed the way nature intended dogs to eat)
Vaccines that need to be done, which is only rabies vs choose to be done. Don't let fear make you pump your dog/puppy up with formaldehyde, mercury, aluminum, foreign tissues, etc. Know what the shot is for, what it will do, and what it won't do for example lepto is a vaccine known for its high reaction rates, but no one seems to realize the two serovars in the vaccine are not active and carry no crossover immunity, and the bordatella vaccine is just as wrong with only two of the over 100 active strains, no crossover immunity, a six month duration of "protection" if you consider it such because no matter what you do, the dog will likely get kennel cough because it is the "common cold" for the dog world.
Keep in mind the vaccines go straight into the dogs muscle tissue, bypassing all known checkpoints that would alert the body of something foreign. A lot of problems can occur, just imagine an airline doing that. Not only that, imagine a combo shot...where does anyone come in contact with 5 different virus' at once. We'd all be dead if that were the case.

Anyway, continuing on with the list..
shampoo
Depending on what you feed: toothbrush and paste or raw fed dog
Crate big enough for adulthood with divider in it to use as the puppy grows
dog bowls unless you plan to feed raw or use current household dishes
Baby gates
training treats(although liver dehydrated is what I prefer for mine)

Are there any plans to have the puppy work in the future as an adult?
Do you already have a vet ready? If not, get started interviewing and finding a good vet. Not all vets are created equal. Your best way to find out is to ask a controversial question about vaccines, food i.e. raw, and see how they handle your question/statement. If they don't handle you voicing what you think about your dog well, go elsewhere.

The best thing to give your puppy is your time. Nothing you can find in a store will replace that. A tired puppy is a good puppy so if you haven't already thought about it, dog daycare is a good option for a puppy to socialize and wear himself out.

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What are the reviews on different dog boxes for a truck?

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ruphalfa

I have a regular cab truck and train dogs. I was looking at dog kennels and covering it with a tarp vs these dog boxes. What are the pros and cons of these dog boxes?

Answer
If you are not going to get a real vehicle to transport dogs safely in-such as a van, I suggest that you purchase a camper shell for your truck AND install a sliding rear window in your cab (if you do not have one-but who doesn't) so that the animals can get heat and air.

Crates in the back and a tarp? No responsible dog owner would let you transport their dogs like that.

How to train what seems to be an untrainable dog?

Jesus Dick

I've had this dog for a little over 4 months. We've tried taking her outside after eating, crate training her, everything. We put her in a crate over night, and the next morning you poops and pees all in the cage. Me and my dad don't know what else to do. Any suggestions?

Answer
4 months old is still a puppy.
Puppies need outside a minimum of 8 times a day.
Dogs hate to have messes in their cages/kennels/dens.
Try putting potty pads all over one room - then day by day remove one - until there is only one left by the door.
Or try: After he has finished his meal, take him out and wait for him to go. If he does not produce anything after 10 minutes, bring him back in, and then turn right around and go straight back out again. Repeat this until he has eliminated outside. Then he gets praise, a treat, and his walk, If it takes all day, it takes all day. Break the pattern once and you won't have to again.
To clean up the accidents you have to use a special pet cleaner that destroys the enzymes and gets rid of the smell for you [and gets rid of the smell for the dog]. Dogs can still smell where they have gone if it has not been properly cleaned with a pet cleaner.
Look at the links below - All are different!!
http://positively.com/
http://positively.com/2010/09/22/piddling-pooches/
http://positively.com/2011/03/17/top-10-things-to-teach-your-dog/
http://positively.com/2010/03/22/fact-vs-fiction-part-i/
http://positively.com/2010/04/06/fact-vs-fiction-part-ii/
http://positively.com/2011/01/04/top-10-gifts-that-last-a-lifetime/
http://positively.com/2010/03/01/the-mystery-of-the-yellow-pillow-case/
http://positively.com/its-me-or-the-dog/the-books/

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