dog crates 42 image
Tab B
I knew she would chew everthing when we got her but she doesnt chew what we give her to chew, what works for your dogs?
We can have a dog at the minuim of 6 weeks old and ours is 7! They don't have to wait 10 weeks before leaving the litter.
Oh she is a Black Lab X Kelpie
Answer
She is still a puppy and puppies will chew. Like human babies puppies grow teeth. When their new teeth are growing in it feels good to chew things. Here are some tips that i have figured out with my threee puppies. One of the things you may not be prepared for when adopting a new puppy is its unrelenting desire to chew on everything. More times than not this can be quite destructive depending on exactly how you handle the situation.
Puppies often chew instinctively because they need to- this is not done because they want to destroy your personal property. When puppies begin to loose their âbaby teethâ and get their 42 adult teeth they will chew to help alleviate some of the discomfort they are experiencing, much like a small child teething.The best thing you can do is try to protect your puppy from potentially harmful items.
Below we have listed several ideas that may help your puppy from being âbadâ and help it through this normal stage of development.
Provide plenty of exercise and attention to help relieve boredom which can often lead to chewing
Crate train the puppy if you are not able to watch it
Use commercial sprays (available at pet stores and discount stores)to alleviate chewing of household items- Listerine will also work.
Do not give your puppy old shoes or socks to chew on- your puppy cannot differentiate old items from your brand new ones and will chew on both.
Give your puppy toys of its own to chew on- it is also a good idea to give these to your puppy when he begins to teeth on you.
Move items you do not want the puppy to chew out of its reach- you should cover all power cords, remove any pens/ pencils, plants (many are poisonous), books, etc. Facts about Puppy Teething
There are 3 chewing phases that most dogs go through: 5 wk. to 5 months, again at 7 months, then at approx. 15 months. (The 15 month one is an emotional or growth stage not related to tooth eruption.)
The teething stages that have the most negative effect on training are the second/third ones. For instance, if you start the formal retrieve at 4 months or so, you know you are going to lose at least 3 to 5 days of training when the canines fall out. A cranky pup behaves just like a cranky teething human baby & is difficult to train.
Also, a teething 5-6 month old pup is chewing alot due to mouth discomfort, damages furniture if not crate and bite inhibit trained. Nipping and biting humans is common at this stage and must be stopped.
Todays Teething Lynnie-ism.......
Attitudes of a teething pup:
1. The world is NEW and I want to eat it!
2. The world is FUN and I want to taste it!
3. The world is BORING and I want to chew it up!
STOP the boredom! Keep that pup BUSY with appropriate chew toys such as Kongs (filled with Peanut Butter and healthy biscuits), Plantation Rubber toys, and Raw Meaty Leg Bones! AVOID medical disaster do not give your dog rawhide and pigs ear products. Cooked bones will splinter, so those should be eliminated as well.
Types of Bite Inhibition
1. Bite inhibition learned from Mother:
Mother growls at pup to halt behavior
2. Bite inhibition learned from litter mates:
Litter mates bite and play, if bites get too rough they growl-bite back
3. Management:
Don't encourage the behavior, stop it with.........appropriate object replacement. This helps divert the pup from the biting, nipping behavior with appropriate, alternative behavior.
The first two items listed above are extremely important. If the pup is removed from its mother and litter mates too early, both of those inhibitions will probably not be present, making nipping a much more serious problem. The bite inhibition management and object replacement techniques will help but it will take a LOT longer to elicit desired behavior.
Bite Inhibition Tips
This trick works well with puppy biting hands......
I bend a cheap metal spoon handle over my thumb. I hold the bowl of the spoon in my hand. When the pup or dog chomps down, they hit metal. I have had luck with bite inhibiting pups by using bitter apple or Tabasco sauce on my fingers, so they will pull back. Then I offer to,let them nibble a treat out of my other hand. If I am using a clicker to train, I then click and treat. I have met several pups and dogs who are ever so gentle if you remember to give the "gentle" cue, but, if you don't, they seem unchanged. Before going to the spoon or bitter apple, I usually go back to square one and train the bite inhibition behavior by presenting a closed palm, then an open palm in a repeated routine, in areas of increasing distraction.
Teaching a Replacement Behavior
Instead of fighting the tooth contact, try teaching the pup to "kiss" instead of "nip".
When the pup licks, give it a name like "kisses" and encourage it with high-pitched praise. If instead, the pups teeth touch you, or the pup nips, make an abrupt, sharp noise . The pup will be SO startled, that the pup will stop mouthing, at least for a second. The minute he stops mouthing, praise as you would for the licking behavior. Good timing is essential. This exercise will halt the mouthing/nipping and replace it with licking. Licking or 'not biting' equals praise, tooth contact equals a sharp reprimand. When this takes place between the ages of 6 weeks to 10 weeks, the process is VERY fast. But, the process will be totally ineffective if just one person allows biting to occur. Young children are not able to perform this procedure very well, so please keep children and pups separate until the bite inhibiting/or lick training is complete. Allowing a child, whose timing may be poor or inconsistent to do this, will simply confuse the dog.
What custom work have you done to your bike?
a2z_altere
How has it worked for you? What suggestion do you have for performance? I have a Sportster 883, but now I am outgrowing it and looking for more.
Answer
The mods are too numerous to detail, but I'll give a short version for each bike.
My 1991 FXR ( ground up re-construction)
121 cui T.P. motor
Baker 6 speed
Chain drive
Hooker exhaust
Works suspension
R.C.comp mags
Custom sheet metal
Custom paint
Chrome LOTS of it ,Frame +swing arm every nut and bolt
stainless braided hoses .
**The bike puts out 116 H.P 128 ft.lbs of torque and for a 700lb bike handle beautifully.
The old ladys bike 1990 FXR( ground up reconstruction)
100" Rev Tech
C.C. 6 speed
Vance and Hines exhaust
Works suspension
Renegade Mags
Custom sheet metal
Custom paint
Custom seat and bags ( Ivory Sting ray)
All the same Chrome Frame swingarm bolts Blah, blah ,blah.
Never bothered to Dyno hers ,but plenty fast and more important to her, she has trophied in 6 of 9 shows she has entered.
The dogs bike (1991XL1200 custom doggy sidecar)
Stock 1200 EVO
Mikuni HSR 42 carb
Bassani exhaust
Polished H.D. Mags
Works suspension
Matched Factory custom paint on a Russian made Ural sidecar.
By far the most fun , The dog and I have a blast on this crate.
If you are looking at "Beefing up" your Sporty ,S&S makes a 89" kit that will make it fly. ( I'll be puting one in the sidecar this winter) S&S also has a 91" and a 100" crate motor for Sportsters.and Baker makes a 6speed.
If you are going to get a Big Twin ,I swear by the FXR, but what one chooses to ride is pretty personal,hell they're all sweet.
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