mysteryous
I have a pit bull puppy and she is barely going to be 2 months. Her name is Noodles and yesterday I caught her twice eating her own poop. How can I make her stop that? Why does she eat her own poop? I will really appreciate all of your answers. GOD BLESS
Answer
* Change the dog's diet. Buy or prepare only nutritious, quality food that is formulated for the dog's age, breed and any medical issues.
* For the dog who may be hungry, try feeding him a little more, and make sure you feed a quality, nutritious food that is appropriate for the age and type of canine.
* Take the dog to your veterinarian for an examination for underlying medical and health problems, parasites and other problems that may be compelling him to eat feces.
* Clean up after your pet, right after he goes - before he has a chance to eat his poop. Stopping access is one key to stopping this habit.
* Walk the dog on leash so that you are in a better position to tell the dog 'leave it' and to physically keep the dog from trying to sniff and eat stools. Always praise your dog for listening. You can also reinforce the verbal praise with tidbits carried in a pouch.
* As soon as the dog starts approaching excrement, tell her 'nah-ah-ahhh' or 'leave it!', and distract her with praise supported with a treat, clicker click, playtime or other action or activity that is appealing to the dog. This will convey the idea that it is more rewarding to attend to you than to attend to poop. As soon as she turns her attention to her, praise her ('Good dog!') and reward her. A wise practice is to always carry appealing tidbit treats, a favorite toy, clicker - something you can always use to effectively gain your dog's attention and reinforce desired behaviors. Once you get her attention, give her something positive to do. For example, tell her to 'Sit', reward her for listening, then proceed to an enjoyable activity such as playing or walking together. Distract her from undesired things like feces, and substitute a good, desired behavior such as sitting and attending to you. A dog who is interacting with her owner can't be investigating poop at the same time.
* If the dog is defecating in the house, the dog needs to be fed and walked on a schedule that allows her to eliminate before the owner leaves her alone for the day and before bedtime. The dog also may need housetraining help. Teach the dog instead of punishing her; this is the sensible and effective approach. Also, visit the vet to see if a medical condition is the underlying cause of the dog eliminating indoors.
* If a pup or dog is pooping in his crate, make sure he gets more exercise and has the chance to eliminate before placing him in his crate. Also, read about crate training. Dogs naturally do not like to poop or urinate in their living quarters, so a dog who potties in the crate needs you to help crate-train him properly ... and perhaps a trip to the vet to rule out medical problems that may underlie an inability to 'hold it' for a few hours. However, also realize that pups can't physically hold their elimination for more than one to three hours, and that it is not healthy or kind to crate adult dogs for more than 5 to 6 hours a day. Take the time to properly train your dog so that he can be left alone in the house, in a pet-safe area instead of confined in a crate.
* There are products that you can apply to the stools that will discourage your dog from consuming them. Some are available from pet supply stores and others from veterinarians. These include Forbid.
* Some alternatives to drugs that work for some:
Add two to four tablespoons of canned pumpkin to the food bowl each day. Pumpkin apparently tastes good in food, but repugnant when expelled in excrement.
Add a spoon (teaspoon or tablespoon depending on the dog's size) of canned pineapple, pineapple juice or spinach to the dog's food.
Add some meat tenderizer or MSG to the dog's food.
Coat stools, following elimination, with hot sauce or lemon juice. Or booby trap sample stools by penetrating some left in the yard with hot sauce.
* Block the dog's access to any kitty litter boxes to keep him from developing a taste for kitty tootsie rolls ... or to help break a habit that has already formed. Keep the litter box in a room that the cat, but not the dog, can access. Or place a lid over the box that only the cat can access. Or place a baby gate around the box that has openings too small for the dog.
* Coprophagia can be a hard habit to break since it is self-reinforcing, but do not be discouraged. Follow these tips and give them a chance to work.
* In summary, the steps to stopping poop-eating are: feed a complete, nutrient-packed and balanced diet; provide lots of exercise, playtime and interaction; keep living spaces, crates, kennels and yard clean; avoid confining the dog for long periods of time; and take him to your veterinarian for a health checkup
* Change the dog's diet. Buy or prepare only nutritious, quality food that is formulated for the dog's age, breed and any medical issues.
* For the dog who may be hungry, try feeding him a little more, and make sure you feed a quality, nutritious food that is appropriate for the age and type of canine.
* Take the dog to your veterinarian for an examination for underlying medical and health problems, parasites and other problems that may be compelling him to eat feces.
* Clean up after your pet, right after he goes - before he has a chance to eat his poop. Stopping access is one key to stopping this habit.
* Walk the dog on leash so that you are in a better position to tell the dog 'leave it' and to physically keep the dog from trying to sniff and eat stools. Always praise your dog for listening. You can also reinforce the verbal praise with tidbits carried in a pouch.
* As soon as the dog starts approaching excrement, tell her 'nah-ah-ahhh' or 'leave it!', and distract her with praise supported with a treat, clicker click, playtime or other action or activity that is appealing to the dog. This will convey the idea that it is more rewarding to attend to you than to attend to poop. As soon as she turns her attention to her, praise her ('Good dog!') and reward her. A wise practice is to always carry appealing tidbit treats, a favorite toy, clicker - something you can always use to effectively gain your dog's attention and reinforce desired behaviors. Once you get her attention, give her something positive to do. For example, tell her to 'Sit', reward her for listening, then proceed to an enjoyable activity such as playing or walking together. Distract her from undesired things like feces, and substitute a good, desired behavior such as sitting and attending to you. A dog who is interacting with her owner can't be investigating poop at the same time.
* If the dog is defecating in the house, the dog needs to be fed and walked on a schedule that allows her to eliminate before the owner leaves her alone for the day and before bedtime. The dog also may need housetraining help. Teach the dog instead of punishing her; this is the sensible and effective approach. Also, visit the vet to see if a medical condition is the underlying cause of the dog eliminating indoors.
* If a pup or dog is pooping in his crate, make sure he gets more exercise and has the chance to eliminate before placing him in his crate. Also, read about crate training. Dogs naturally do not like to poop or urinate in their living quarters, so a dog who potties in the crate needs you to help crate-train him properly ... and perhaps a trip to the vet to rule out medical problems that may underlie an inability to 'hold it' for a few hours. However, also realize that pups can't physically hold their elimination for more than one to three hours, and that it is not healthy or kind to crate adult dogs for more than 5 to 6 hours a day. Take the time to properly train your dog so that he can be left alone in the house, in a pet-safe area instead of confined in a crate.
* There are products that you can apply to the stools that will discourage your dog from consuming them. Some are available from pet supply stores and others from veterinarians. These include Forbid.
* Some alternatives to drugs that work for some:
Add two to four tablespoons of canned pumpkin to the food bowl each day. Pumpkin apparently tastes good in food, but repugnant when expelled in excrement.
Add a spoon (teaspoon or tablespoon depending on the dog's size) of canned pineapple, pineapple juice or spinach to the dog's food.
Add some meat tenderizer or MSG to the dog's food.
Coat stools, following elimination, with hot sauce or lemon juice. Or booby trap sample stools by penetrating some left in the yard with hot sauce.
* Block the dog's access to any kitty litter boxes to keep him from developing a taste for kitty tootsie rolls ... or to help break a habit that has already formed. Keep the litter box in a room that the cat, but not the dog, can access. Or place a lid over the box that only the cat can access. Or place a baby gate around the box that has openings too small for the dog.
* Coprophagia can be a hard habit to break since it is self-reinforcing, but do not be discouraged. Follow these tips and give them a chance to work.
* In summary, the steps to stopping poop-eating are: feed a complete, nutrient-packed and balanced diet; provide lots of exercise, playtime and interaction; keep living spaces, crates, kennels and yard clean; avoid confining the dog for long periods of time; and take him to your veterinarian for a health checkup
My family is getting a dog soonish, I have some questions?
Q. Would a Whippet and a Miniature Bull Terrier get along? Those are the breeds my family plan on getting, we also plan that they are both female, and we will get them desexed and buy and raise them from puppies.
In the near future (January - February next year) my family and I plan on getting these dogs. I was just wondering, would these two breeds get along?
And here are some extra questions to answer, if you can;
Which dog should we get first, and how long should we wait until getting the next dog (we do not plan on getting them at the same time)?
Roughly how much would it cost (vet bills, the puppies price, ect.)?
Do any of you have Whippet's or Mini's and what are they like?
What are some good websites/breeders I could look into (Around Melbourne, Victoria, Australia) or any other helpful websites I should look at?
ALSO, I've read somewhere that Bull Terriers are not good with other dogs. Would this change if we got the Mini Bull Terrier after the Whippet, so it can grow next to it and see the Whippet as the more dominant dog?
And lastly, I have a 9 year old brother and an 11 year old sister, which would not hurt/annoy the dog in any way (they're pretty good with dogs, and we would never leave them alone with the dogs or anything) and I'm 13, so should these dogs be okay with two adults and three children those ages?
We are researching a lot on these breeds, but these are just some things I'd rather get direct answers from.
Thank you for any help or advice (feel free to give advice or share experiences)! :)
In the near future (January - February next year) my family and I plan on getting these dogs. I was just wondering, would these two breeds get along?
And here are some extra questions to answer, if you can;
Which dog should we get first, and how long should we wait until getting the next dog (we do not plan on getting them at the same time)?
Roughly how much would it cost (vet bills, the puppies price, ect.)?
Do any of you have Whippet's or Mini's and what are they like?
What are some good websites/breeders I could look into (Around Melbourne, Victoria, Australia) or any other helpful websites I should look at?
ALSO, I've read somewhere that Bull Terriers are not good with other dogs. Would this change if we got the Mini Bull Terrier after the Whippet, so it can grow next to it and see the Whippet as the more dominant dog?
And lastly, I have a 9 year old brother and an 11 year old sister, which would not hurt/annoy the dog in any way (they're pretty good with dogs, and we would never leave them alone with the dogs or anything) and I'm 13, so should these dogs be okay with two adults and three children those ages?
We are researching a lot on these breeds, but these are just some things I'd rather get direct answers from.
Thank you for any help or advice (feel free to give advice or share experiences)! :)
Answer
Temperament wise, the breed doesn't mean much. It depends more on training and socialization from a young age. Some dogs are friendly with other dogs, some aren't.
Whippets generally do get on with other dogs. When it comes to the bull terrier, it's more of a 'yes and no' situation - if they meet other dogs and are socialized from a puppy, they will be gentle. If it's left too long, they can become aggressive.
Important - introduce them to each other gradually, ideally with something that stops them getting too close, but so they can still see each other, like a crate. If any aggression is shown, separate and distract them - by feeding for example - in different rooms if needed. If they're not aggressive, reward them with a treat. This way, they come to associate the other dog as positive, not negative.
As for costs, it varies depending on what you buy:-
- A good quality food is needed for feeding. I'd recommend arden grange, iams or eukanuba, as they're good quality at reasonable prices. They can be fed a mixture of moist and dry food, or just one. Which way you do it is up to you. NB if you feed only dry food, ensure it's full food, not a 'mixer'.
- toys are important also to provide mental and physical exercise. I'd recommend that you get a variety to see which they prefer, such as squeaky toys, balls, soft toys and rubber bones. Check them regularly for wear and tear and throw any damaged ones away, as they could cause a choking hazard. Also, bring them out in rotation. This way the dogs will think that they're getting new toys all the time, but you're not constantly buying more.
- treats are useful for training, but not truly necessary for caring for a dog - if you have none, you can always improvise with dry food.
- bedding may be needed. You can buy dog beds, although there's no guarantee than they will be used. Plastic ones are usually easier to clean and long lasting than fabric beds, although you can improvise by cutting a 'U' shape down one side of an old cardboard box and line it with an old blanket. This is better for puppies, as they often chew their beds while teething.
- collars, leads and harnesses. By law, all dogs must wear a collar in public with the owner's contact details attached, either in a barrel which unscrews to show the info on paper, or engraved on a metal disk. A harness is better for walking a dog rather than just the collar - if the dog pulls on a collar and lead, they can end up choking themselves - this won't happen with a harness.
- poop bags. By law, if a dog is being walked and they poo in public, the handler must clean it up.
- food and water bowls. These would ideally be easy to clean, dishwasher safe, tip and spill proof and hard wearing. Metal bowls are more expensive, but worth it in the long run, as the worst which can happen to them via damage is being bent - plastic bowls can become cracked or broken as can china bowls, posing a health risk of choking or cuts.
- grooming equipment. Unless the dog is walked on hard pavement which will wear their claws down, they will need trimming regularly, particularly the 'dew' claw. NB Clip the tip of the nail and go gradually to avoid cutting the 'quick'. This is the dog equivalent of the pink part of human nails which will bleed and cause the dog pain if it is accidentally cut into. If you do cut the quick, put a clean dressing over it or dip the wound into corn starch to stop bleeding. A good grooming brush and comb is also needed for regular brushing, ideally every few days to remove shed fur and to keep an eye out for skin abnormalities such as wounds to the skin and fleas or ticks. If they get dirty, they will need a bath with shampoo. Dogs also need a toothbrush and dog toothpaste to keep their teeth clean.
- shelter (if the dog spends time outdoors). This is for protection fro the elements i.e. shelter from the heat in summer, cold in winter and the wet from rain.
Vet bills and getting the dogs will vary from one vet and breeder/shelter to another and depending on which treatments they are given. Some charge more, others less.
A website I recommend is pet place.com if you need information for the medical side of dog care. It's technically American, but I find it's very interesting and was really useful for vet nursing work when I was at college.
Whippets are often good with kids, and, if socialized properly, miniature bull terriers will too. I know this because my mum has had English bull terriers for a long time and they've always been perfectly fine with me when I was a child and teenager.
Temperament wise, the breed doesn't mean much. It depends more on training and socialization from a young age. Some dogs are friendly with other dogs, some aren't.
Whippets generally do get on with other dogs. When it comes to the bull terrier, it's more of a 'yes and no' situation - if they meet other dogs and are socialized from a puppy, they will be gentle. If it's left too long, they can become aggressive.
Important - introduce them to each other gradually, ideally with something that stops them getting too close, but so they can still see each other, like a crate. If any aggression is shown, separate and distract them - by feeding for example - in different rooms if needed. If they're not aggressive, reward them with a treat. This way, they come to associate the other dog as positive, not negative.
As for costs, it varies depending on what you buy:-
- A good quality food is needed for feeding. I'd recommend arden grange, iams or eukanuba, as they're good quality at reasonable prices. They can be fed a mixture of moist and dry food, or just one. Which way you do it is up to you. NB if you feed only dry food, ensure it's full food, not a 'mixer'.
- toys are important also to provide mental and physical exercise. I'd recommend that you get a variety to see which they prefer, such as squeaky toys, balls, soft toys and rubber bones. Check them regularly for wear and tear and throw any damaged ones away, as they could cause a choking hazard. Also, bring them out in rotation. This way the dogs will think that they're getting new toys all the time, but you're not constantly buying more.
- treats are useful for training, but not truly necessary for caring for a dog - if you have none, you can always improvise with dry food.
- bedding may be needed. You can buy dog beds, although there's no guarantee than they will be used. Plastic ones are usually easier to clean and long lasting than fabric beds, although you can improvise by cutting a 'U' shape down one side of an old cardboard box and line it with an old blanket. This is better for puppies, as they often chew their beds while teething.
- collars, leads and harnesses. By law, all dogs must wear a collar in public with the owner's contact details attached, either in a barrel which unscrews to show the info on paper, or engraved on a metal disk. A harness is better for walking a dog rather than just the collar - if the dog pulls on a collar and lead, they can end up choking themselves - this won't happen with a harness.
- poop bags. By law, if a dog is being walked and they poo in public, the handler must clean it up.
- food and water bowls. These would ideally be easy to clean, dishwasher safe, tip and spill proof and hard wearing. Metal bowls are more expensive, but worth it in the long run, as the worst which can happen to them via damage is being bent - plastic bowls can become cracked or broken as can china bowls, posing a health risk of choking or cuts.
- grooming equipment. Unless the dog is walked on hard pavement which will wear their claws down, they will need trimming regularly, particularly the 'dew' claw. NB Clip the tip of the nail and go gradually to avoid cutting the 'quick'. This is the dog equivalent of the pink part of human nails which will bleed and cause the dog pain if it is accidentally cut into. If you do cut the quick, put a clean dressing over it or dip the wound into corn starch to stop bleeding. A good grooming brush and comb is also needed for regular brushing, ideally every few days to remove shed fur and to keep an eye out for skin abnormalities such as wounds to the skin and fleas or ticks. If they get dirty, they will need a bath with shampoo. Dogs also need a toothbrush and dog toothpaste to keep their teeth clean.
- shelter (if the dog spends time outdoors). This is for protection fro the elements i.e. shelter from the heat in summer, cold in winter and the wet from rain.
Vet bills and getting the dogs will vary from one vet and breeder/shelter to another and depending on which treatments they are given. Some charge more, others less.
A website I recommend is pet place.com if you need information for the medical side of dog care. It's technically American, but I find it's very interesting and was really useful for vet nursing work when I was at college.
Whippets are often good with kids, and, if socialized properly, miniature bull terriers will too. I know this because my mum has had English bull terriers for a long time and they've always been perfectly fine with me when I was a child and teenager.
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Title Post: I need help with my dog?
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