SamiiLynn
I have a very hyper puppy that is just about full grown, she is a little over 5 months old and the vet says she won't get much bigger. she is taller than we expected and her head can reach the top of her wire crate. She can walk in and turn fully around but can't lay straight out. Is it too small?
If we get her a bigger crate:
-Would a carrier type crate calm her down a little because its dark and den like? (We can't put a blanket over the wire crate because she pulls it in and chews on it.)
-Which is better, a wire crate or a carrier type?
My puppy is a beagle corgi mix. The father was uknown but we think border collie. Her crate is Something like H 21" L 23" W 18".
I know I have asked this question once before but different people maybe on and i would also like to hear their imput.
Thank You!
Answer
I am glad to see that whether or not to crate is not the issue, but what size and type of crate is best for your puppy. Crating is important for the health and welfare of any dog, but especially a young puppy who does not know enough to stay out of stuff that could hurt or kill her.
That being said, yes, it sounds like you do need a new and larger crate. I would actually go up two sizes, as at less than 6 months old, your puppy still has a lot of growing to do. Most puppies still have approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of their total growth to do after 6 months of age.
What type of crate is more of a function of personal preference of the dog - in most cases. I do greyhound rescue, and typically, we recommend the wire crates because these are the closest to the type of crates used at the track. These come in two styles, what we call pin crates as the crate is held together by long pins that go in the corners to provide stability, and what we call suitcase crates because they fold up and are more easily stored or transported when necessary.
I prefer the suitcase variety unless I have a dog who is very distructive and will demolish the folding crate by forcing an end to pop out of position in an attempt to escape. For these guys and gals, I keep a couple of pin crates on hand.
The other type of crate, is a varikennel or airline crate. These are made of rigid plastic and are fairly sturdy unless you have a real chewer who can and will chew thru the crate wall to escape. These work fairly well for smaller breed dogs, but just really can't stand up to the punishment of most large breeds.
Some dogs do not like to be enclosed in small spaces. For these dogs, the vari kennel is not a good option. They will develop more problems when they have to be crates for long periods (over night or when you are gone to work all day). They are necessary if you plan to travel with your pet, as most hotels that allow dogs require this type of crate, and all airlines require them.
I would, personally, choose the wire crate. If you want to disguise it, there are some that have a basket type of weave covering the walls and top of the crate, so that it looks more like a piece of furniture. A chewer will make short work of this, but it will look better than just having the plain wire crate. If you have dogs, however, most people understand that you also need a crate for your dog, so folks are a lot less formal about how it looks sitting in the living room or family room.
Good luck, and I hope you are able to find the right kind of crate for you and your puppy.
I am glad to see that whether or not to crate is not the issue, but what size and type of crate is best for your puppy. Crating is important for the health and welfare of any dog, but especially a young puppy who does not know enough to stay out of stuff that could hurt or kill her.
That being said, yes, it sounds like you do need a new and larger crate. I would actually go up two sizes, as at less than 6 months old, your puppy still has a lot of growing to do. Most puppies still have approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of their total growth to do after 6 months of age.
What type of crate is more of a function of personal preference of the dog - in most cases. I do greyhound rescue, and typically, we recommend the wire crates because these are the closest to the type of crates used at the track. These come in two styles, what we call pin crates as the crate is held together by long pins that go in the corners to provide stability, and what we call suitcase crates because they fold up and are more easily stored or transported when necessary.
I prefer the suitcase variety unless I have a dog who is very distructive and will demolish the folding crate by forcing an end to pop out of position in an attempt to escape. For these guys and gals, I keep a couple of pin crates on hand.
The other type of crate, is a varikennel or airline crate. These are made of rigid plastic and are fairly sturdy unless you have a real chewer who can and will chew thru the crate wall to escape. These work fairly well for smaller breed dogs, but just really can't stand up to the punishment of most large breeds.
Some dogs do not like to be enclosed in small spaces. For these dogs, the vari kennel is not a good option. They will develop more problems when they have to be crates for long periods (over night or when you are gone to work all day). They are necessary if you plan to travel with your pet, as most hotels that allow dogs require this type of crate, and all airlines require them.
I would, personally, choose the wire crate. If you want to disguise it, there are some that have a basket type of weave covering the walls and top of the crate, so that it looks more like a piece of furniture. A chewer will make short work of this, but it will look better than just having the plain wire crate. If you have dogs, however, most people understand that you also need a crate for your dog, so folks are a lot less formal about how it looks sitting in the living room or family room.
Good luck, and I hope you are able to find the right kind of crate for you and your puppy.
Should I leave my dog in the crate when I'm at school?
Christine
I am trying to crate train my dachshund, Coco. She is already 10 months old and she's not housebroken yet. If I let her run around in a room, she'll pee and poop at least once when I'm at school. If I keep her in the crate, she might not go potty. I've read articles on crate training and house training, and that I shouldn't leave my dog in he crate for too long, but I have to go to school and both my parents have jobs. I want her to be housebroken once and for all.
Answer
Selecting a Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate
Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If instead your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dogâeven sleep timeâis a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
Potential Problems
Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.
Selecting a Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate
Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If instead your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dogâeven sleep timeâis a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
Potential Problems
Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Title Post: Dog Crates???
Rating: 100% based on 9998 ratings. 5 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
Rating: 100% based on 9998 ratings. 5 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar