Some crate questions. ?

Bree

It's me again - more questions in preparation for my coming rotti pup.

I have yet to choose a crate.

I've read that it's not good to get rid of or stop using a crate, even after it's served it's purpose as a training tool. This makes sense to me, of course - the crate is supposed to serve as a safe, den-like space. However, my dogs have always been right up in the bed and/or furniture with me, which is where I like them to be. I've found that dogs who are crated, at least those I've met, continue to prefer their crate as a resting area, rather than beside their owner. So, question one for those of you who do or have crated their dogs. If they aren't confined to the crate at night (after house broken, of course), do they stick near you or choose the crate? And during the day when they're out?

Another thing I'm having trouble deciding is plastic or wire. My cats often climb up onto the rabbit and ferret cages and sleep there. I suspect they'd do the same on a wire crate, and I'm uncertain if this would bother the dog. However, with where I will be putting the crate, no light will get into the crate through the sides and possibly not much through the front, and wonder if it would bother to dog to be in the dark like that. Also, my room can be somewhat warm, as I house my reptiles in there as well. With the wire crate, there'd be more ventilation and I don't think it would be unusually warm where it would be situated. With the plastic, it seems like there would be less air flow and I worry about it getting uncomfortably warm. What sort of setting is your crate in during the day?

It's going to cost around a hundred dollars or more, whichever crate I get. Obviously, the pup is going to grow quite large, and if I'm going to continue making the crate available after he's housebroken, I'll need something much bigger than what he'd use as a puppy. Rather than buy two, I was wondering if there's a good way to divide a large crate, so that I can buy one big enough to last. This question is more for those with large dogs - did you start with a smaller crate, or a large? Why?

Some say not to put food or water in the crate, some say do, and some say just one or the other. Which is it? The longest he will be in the crate, besides at night, is just over three hours (I leave at quarter to nine and get back around five after twelve for lunch, at which time he will be immediately taken out). I would obviously remove anything at night, but am uncertain about the best choice for during the day. Do you make food or water available in your crate? Have you always done that? Why/why not?

These probably sound a bit silly, but I've never even considered crating a dog before. Those I know who do crate their dogs have had little success in other areas (the dogs jump, chew, and/or have poor obedience skills), so I don't want to rely on their answers either. I'll probably be back with more questions, but this is all that's come to mind right now.

Answer
My dogs were all crate-trained and they still use them. I'll crate them when I'm gone for more than an hour or so, and will crate any dog that I don't trust not to get into things when I'm not around. They'll go into their crates when the doors are open to snooze or to get away from the other dogs as well. All, however, are still more than happy to snuggle with us, lie on the couch, and sleep next to the bed.

I use wire crates in my home and at shows. They're easy to clean, easy to see into, and look nicer than the plastic ones. If a particular dog likes a more enclosed area, I'll cover the top or even the sides with a sheet or crate cover and leave the front open. They also fold well for travel, carrying up stairs, etc. I also have two fabric crates for hotel rooms or when visiting friends when I don't want to carry a heavy crate along.

My dogs are in heavy-duty plastic Vari-Kennels in the car. PetPorter from Wal-Mart used to be decent, but the plastic is cheap and weak now. If you want a plastic crate, go for the Vari-Kennel. I've seen dogs survive some horrific car crashes in a plastic crate-- it flexes and is more secure. A wire crate in a car accident will crumple and can crush or even skewer the dog on broken wires. I have two plastic crates that live permanently in the back of my SUV. When the dogs are in the car, that's where they ride. I also like the plastic crates for young puppies being introduced to crating. They tend to feel more secure, and are much less likely to get a toe or foot caught and injure themselves while learning to accept being confined. Once they're comfortable with the idea, they will graduate to a wire crate. If you choose a plastic crate and feel there isn't enough airflow, set a box fan ahead of it in hot weather.

I don't put food or water in a crate for a puppy-- they'll spill it, and some pups have drowned if they happen to get caught in the water. A puppy shouldn't be crated long enough to require food and water in the crate. For my older dogs, I'll hang a 1 or 1.5 quart stainless steel bucket (find them in pet supply catalogs, online, or at dog shows) with a carabiner clip with the hinge to the outside so the dog can't catch a lip on it. All dogs in crates have collars removed.

Needless to say, I have more crates than dogs. Right now I have two smaller crates for puppies that are in the basement unused, three wire crates for in the house, three more in storage for shows, three Vari-Kennels, 2 heavy-duty fabric crates, and an x-pen.

Crates are invaluable for house training and keeping your dog safe, as well as providing your dog with his 'own space.' Good luck with your future puppy!

Dog crate?

Nafe

I have two Jack russell terriers and unfortunately there left alone on weekdays for about 5-6 hours. I walk them as much as possible but I have some serious trouble leaving them at home. I leave them in the living room and the preparation involved is crazy, I put a gate up, move furniture, take cushions off couches as they occasionally wee, so now i'm considering getting a crate or pen. Should I leave one in crate and one out? Buy two pens? Leave them In same pen? I also feel I should get one as big as poss so they're not too confined or would it be better to leave them in one recommended for their size ( cosy ) ? I cant leave them in any other rooms and the living room setting up is so tiring. Any advice would be great, thanks

Answer
get a crate for each that is only big enough for them to stand up, turn around and lay down in. anything bigger is just room to poop. crate training is a fabulous way to housetraining. it should be started from when you get them, that is probably why you have such a hard time with them going in the house. without proper training in a cage a dog can't learn to respect the enviroment they live in.

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What is the best advice for potty training an adult Yorkie?

Lauren

I recently received a Yorkie (Bandit) who is a little over a year old. I live in an apartment so training him to go outside would be very difficult for nights. Are there any suggestions for letterbox training a dog? He's only 4 pounds and I've heard it can be very successful.. But i do not know how to start. He is stubborn and has a vivacious personality so i am certain he is giving me a hard time for kicks and giggles.

Answer
You'll need several items to get started. Of course, a litter box is required. I suggest a Purina dog litter box -- or get the largest cat litter box available, and cut the top off the hood. Removing the top makes it much easier for the dog to use, and for you to clean. Use very rough sandpaper or a smoothing tool (i.e. a Dremel) to round the edges. Dogs tend to "go" more frequently than cats, and they don't bury their waste in the same way cats do.

People use a variety of "filler" for litter pans. Some folks like to use newspapers or absorbent "pee pads". Others prefer commercial dog litter or cat litter, so they can scoop out and dispose of the waste easily. A few folks have voiced concern over clumping litter (in the event the dog ingests it). Personally, I've used all types of filler and haven't experienced a problem with any of it.

If you use dog or cat litter, buy a large size litter scoop, it will work best! It's also handy to get a small foot pedal "step-on" can with a plastic bucket (I found mine at Bed, Bath & Beyond). A 3 to 5 gallon size can works perfectly. I also use a standard diaper pail lined with a plastic bag in my dog room. Whenever the "step-on" pail is full, I empty the can into the diaper pail. This saves a lot of time, and my trips to empty waste are infrequent. Best of all, the diaper pail is designed to contain odors!

Most importantly, be sure to have plenty of cleaning supplies. Brooms and easy-to-use mops should be nearby. Lots of paper towels (especially at the beginning) should be kept on hand. I also find a DustBuster hand vacuum makes it easy to clean up the sand and litter that inevitably gets kicked around. Bleach is a great odor mask, and putting some in a small container (make sure it is completely out of the reach of the dogs) goes a long way in odor control. Other odor controls such as candles, sprays and plug-ins can also work well. In general, if you just keep the area clean, odor won't be a big problem.

Be prepared for accidents when house and litterbox training.

If you're starting from scratch, you'll need to work with the dog very closely, and have your cleaning supplies even closer! The best method for housetraining is to design the environment so that it is difficult for the dog to fail. Your dog wants to please you, and you can help him (or her) succeed! First, designate the area to be used for the litterbox and/or papers. Obviously, a tiled or easy to clean floor area is best. During the first few days, you will need to constantly monitor the dog when it is not in its bathroom area. In this initial period, the dog should have only two location options: either with you, or a direct path to his bathroom area. You can accomplish this by shutting doors, and using simple gating materials such as latex lattice, child gates, or even pieces of cardboard. In any event, make sure that the dog can ONLY go to his designated area when "caught in the act". Make sure there is a direct path between you and his bathroom only (no open side rooms) at all times.

During the first few days the dog should either be with you, or in his area. If you are unable to watch the dog carefully, put the dog in his bathroom or crate area. If you notice actions such as circling or sniffing (usually indicating the dog has "to go"), then encourage the dog to go to his area to do his business on papers. Develop a key word or key phrase for this action. It can be anything you want such as: "go pee", "get busy", "use the box", etc. Repeat the word or phrase often at the spot where the dog should do his business.

http://www.kturby.com/litter/litter.htm

That's for litterbox training. Crate Training IMO is the best but since you live in an apartment!

Male Westy will not house train?

Mary S

I have a little Westy who will turn 2 years old in December. To this day he is not fully house trained. He does not poop in the house - he will only urinate. He does it constantly. Does anyone know if I get him fixed if it will solve this problem??? I have tried crate training, consistency with letting him out every hour, walking, rewarding with treats, firmly telling him he has done wrong when he is actually doing it...........etc. He is always lifting his leg on the corner of things - I find dried pee all the time - especially because I cannot always catch him in the act.

I have two rooms that are carpeted and it is tough to get the smell out if I don't clean it up right away and since I don't always see him doing it, it's hard to know that he has done it until I smell it..................

P.S. For anyone looking for a good product out there for pet odor and stain - Pureayre is great!!! It's totally chemical free and does work! You can spray it directly on your dog and it will not harm him. Also, for hints of getting smells out of carpets - go to a Bed, Bath & Beyond and buy a metal liquid meat injector. It's like a giant syringe. The end is pointy enough that you can stick it into your carpet and dispurse the liquid underneath the carpet. This helps in removing the odor underneath the carpet when you cannot literally lift it to clean underneath!

Thanks!!

Answer
If you find puddles on the floor it is more likely to be pee - with marking the dog deposits a smaller amount of urine usually done to upright surfaces such as a doorway, table leg or piece of furniture. D
Neutering male dogs helps in 50% of marking behavior cases, so yes definitely have it done and hope he is in that half that it works for.
To cure it - Confine your dog to one area of the house where you can watch him. Shut doors to other areas of the house or barricade them off with baby gates or improvise with whatever is at hand. Make yourself a Shaker Bottle, simply an empty cola can with a several coins inside it Watch your dog for any signs (such as sniffing and circling) that he is even thinking about marking. The moment he begins to lift his leg shake the can once only to get his attention. The loud noise should startle him and interrupt what he is doing. As he looks towards where the noise has come from. Give him the command in a stern voice 'NO PEE'. Sometimes throwing the can in his general direction works well too but be careful not to hit him with it as you only want to startle him not harm him. If he then turns around and resumes what he was doing, repeat the process. Try to divert his attention with something fun like a game or throw him a ball. You can deter your dog peeing on the furniture by attaching strips of aluminum foil to his favorite spots. The urine will make a noise when hitting the foil and may splash back on him.

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