Lauren
I recently received a Yorkie (Bandit) who is a little over a year old. I live in an apartment so training him to go outside would be very difficult for nights. Are there any suggestions for letterbox training a dog? He's only 4 pounds and I've heard it can be very successful.. But i do not know how to start. He is stubborn and has a vivacious personality so i am certain he is giving me a hard time for kicks and giggles.
Answer
You'll need several items to get started. Of course, a litter box is required. I suggest a Purina dog litter box -- or get the largest cat litter box available, and cut the top off the hood. Removing the top makes it much easier for the dog to use, and for you to clean. Use very rough sandpaper or a smoothing tool (i.e. a Dremel) to round the edges. Dogs tend to "go" more frequently than cats, and they don't bury their waste in the same way cats do.
People use a variety of "filler" for litter pans. Some folks like to use newspapers or absorbent "pee pads". Others prefer commercial dog litter or cat litter, so they can scoop out and dispose of the waste easily. A few folks have voiced concern over clumping litter (in the event the dog ingests it). Personally, I've used all types of filler and haven't experienced a problem with any of it.
If you use dog or cat litter, buy a large size litter scoop, it will work best! It's also handy to get a small foot pedal "step-on" can with a plastic bucket (I found mine at Bed, Bath & Beyond). A 3 to 5 gallon size can works perfectly. I also use a standard diaper pail lined with a plastic bag in my dog room. Whenever the "step-on" pail is full, I empty the can into the diaper pail. This saves a lot of time, and my trips to empty waste are infrequent. Best of all, the diaper pail is designed to contain odors!
Most importantly, be sure to have plenty of cleaning supplies. Brooms and easy-to-use mops should be nearby. Lots of paper towels (especially at the beginning) should be kept on hand. I also find a DustBuster hand vacuum makes it easy to clean up the sand and litter that inevitably gets kicked around. Bleach is a great odor mask, and putting some in a small container (make sure it is completely out of the reach of the dogs) goes a long way in odor control. Other odor controls such as candles, sprays and plug-ins can also work well. In general, if you just keep the area clean, odor won't be a big problem.
Be prepared for accidents when house and litterbox training.
If you're starting from scratch, you'll need to work with the dog very closely, and have your cleaning supplies even closer! The best method for housetraining is to design the environment so that it is difficult for the dog to fail. Your dog wants to please you, and you can help him (or her) succeed! First, designate the area to be used for the litterbox and/or papers. Obviously, a tiled or easy to clean floor area is best. During the first few days, you will need to constantly monitor the dog when it is not in its bathroom area. In this initial period, the dog should have only two location options: either with you, or a direct path to his bathroom area. You can accomplish this by shutting doors, and using simple gating materials such as latex lattice, child gates, or even pieces of cardboard. In any event, make sure that the dog can ONLY go to his designated area when "caught in the act". Make sure there is a direct path between you and his bathroom only (no open side rooms) at all times.
During the first few days the dog should either be with you, or in his area. If you are unable to watch the dog carefully, put the dog in his bathroom or crate area. If you notice actions such as circling or sniffing (usually indicating the dog has "to go"), then encourage the dog to go to his area to do his business on papers. Develop a key word or key phrase for this action. It can be anything you want such as: "go pee", "get busy", "use the box", etc. Repeat the word or phrase often at the spot where the dog should do his business.
http://www.kturby.com/litter/litter.htm
That's for litterbox training. Crate Training IMO is the best but since you live in an apartment!
You'll need several items to get started. Of course, a litter box is required. I suggest a Purina dog litter box -- or get the largest cat litter box available, and cut the top off the hood. Removing the top makes it much easier for the dog to use, and for you to clean. Use very rough sandpaper or a smoothing tool (i.e. a Dremel) to round the edges. Dogs tend to "go" more frequently than cats, and they don't bury their waste in the same way cats do.
People use a variety of "filler" for litter pans. Some folks like to use newspapers or absorbent "pee pads". Others prefer commercial dog litter or cat litter, so they can scoop out and dispose of the waste easily. A few folks have voiced concern over clumping litter (in the event the dog ingests it). Personally, I've used all types of filler and haven't experienced a problem with any of it.
If you use dog or cat litter, buy a large size litter scoop, it will work best! It's also handy to get a small foot pedal "step-on" can with a plastic bucket (I found mine at Bed, Bath & Beyond). A 3 to 5 gallon size can works perfectly. I also use a standard diaper pail lined with a plastic bag in my dog room. Whenever the "step-on" pail is full, I empty the can into the diaper pail. This saves a lot of time, and my trips to empty waste are infrequent. Best of all, the diaper pail is designed to contain odors!
Most importantly, be sure to have plenty of cleaning supplies. Brooms and easy-to-use mops should be nearby. Lots of paper towels (especially at the beginning) should be kept on hand. I also find a DustBuster hand vacuum makes it easy to clean up the sand and litter that inevitably gets kicked around. Bleach is a great odor mask, and putting some in a small container (make sure it is completely out of the reach of the dogs) goes a long way in odor control. Other odor controls such as candles, sprays and plug-ins can also work well. In general, if you just keep the area clean, odor won't be a big problem.
Be prepared for accidents when house and litterbox training.
If you're starting from scratch, you'll need to work with the dog very closely, and have your cleaning supplies even closer! The best method for housetraining is to design the environment so that it is difficult for the dog to fail. Your dog wants to please you, and you can help him (or her) succeed! First, designate the area to be used for the litterbox and/or papers. Obviously, a tiled or easy to clean floor area is best. During the first few days, you will need to constantly monitor the dog when it is not in its bathroom area. In this initial period, the dog should have only two location options: either with you, or a direct path to his bathroom area. You can accomplish this by shutting doors, and using simple gating materials such as latex lattice, child gates, or even pieces of cardboard. In any event, make sure that the dog can ONLY go to his designated area when "caught in the act". Make sure there is a direct path between you and his bathroom only (no open side rooms) at all times.
During the first few days the dog should either be with you, or in his area. If you are unable to watch the dog carefully, put the dog in his bathroom or crate area. If you notice actions such as circling or sniffing (usually indicating the dog has "to go"), then encourage the dog to go to his area to do his business on papers. Develop a key word or key phrase for this action. It can be anything you want such as: "go pee", "get busy", "use the box", etc. Repeat the word or phrase often at the spot where the dog should do his business.
http://www.kturby.com/litter/litter.htm
That's for litterbox training. Crate Training IMO is the best but since you live in an apartment!
Male Westy will not house train?
Mary S
I have a little Westy who will turn 2 years old in December. To this day he is not fully house trained. He does not poop in the house - he will only urinate. He does it constantly. Does anyone know if I get him fixed if it will solve this problem??? I have tried crate training, consistency with letting him out every hour, walking, rewarding with treats, firmly telling him he has done wrong when he is actually doing it...........etc. He is always lifting his leg on the corner of things - I find dried pee all the time - especially because I cannot always catch him in the act.
I have two rooms that are carpeted and it is tough to get the smell out if I don't clean it up right away and since I don't always see him doing it, it's hard to know that he has done it until I smell it..................
P.S. For anyone looking for a good product out there for pet odor and stain - Pureayre is great!!! It's totally chemical free and does work! You can spray it directly on your dog and it will not harm him. Also, for hints of getting smells out of carpets - go to a Bed, Bath & Beyond and buy a metal liquid meat injector. It's like a giant syringe. The end is pointy enough that you can stick it into your carpet and dispurse the liquid underneath the carpet. This helps in removing the odor underneath the carpet when you cannot literally lift it to clean underneath!
Thanks!!
Answer
If you find puddles on the floor it is more likely to be pee - with marking the dog deposits a smaller amount of urine usually done to upright surfaces such as a doorway, table leg or piece of furniture. D
Neutering male dogs helps in 50% of marking behavior cases, so yes definitely have it done and hope he is in that half that it works for.
To cure it - Confine your dog to one area of the house where you can watch him. Shut doors to other areas of the house or barricade them off with baby gates or improvise with whatever is at hand. Make yourself a Shaker Bottle, simply an empty cola can with a several coins inside it Watch your dog for any signs (such as sniffing and circling) that he is even thinking about marking. The moment he begins to lift his leg shake the can once only to get his attention. The loud noise should startle him and interrupt what he is doing. As he looks towards where the noise has come from. Give him the command in a stern voice 'NO PEE'. Sometimes throwing the can in his general direction works well too but be careful not to hit him with it as you only want to startle him not harm him. If he then turns around and resumes what he was doing, repeat the process. Try to divert his attention with something fun like a game or throw him a ball. You can deter your dog peeing on the furniture by attaching strips of aluminum foil to his favorite spots. The urine will make a noise when hitting the foil and may splash back on him.
If you find puddles on the floor it is more likely to be pee - with marking the dog deposits a smaller amount of urine usually done to upright surfaces such as a doorway, table leg or piece of furniture. D
Neutering male dogs helps in 50% of marking behavior cases, so yes definitely have it done and hope he is in that half that it works for.
To cure it - Confine your dog to one area of the house where you can watch him. Shut doors to other areas of the house or barricade them off with baby gates or improvise with whatever is at hand. Make yourself a Shaker Bottle, simply an empty cola can with a several coins inside it Watch your dog for any signs (such as sniffing and circling) that he is even thinking about marking. The moment he begins to lift his leg shake the can once only to get his attention. The loud noise should startle him and interrupt what he is doing. As he looks towards where the noise has come from. Give him the command in a stern voice 'NO PEE'. Sometimes throwing the can in his general direction works well too but be careful not to hit him with it as you only want to startle him not harm him. If he then turns around and resumes what he was doing, repeat the process. Try to divert his attention with something fun like a game or throw him a ball. You can deter your dog peeing on the furniture by attaching strips of aluminum foil to his favorite spots. The urine will make a noise when hitting the foil and may splash back on him.
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