bringing a dog to Australia?

Jeanycup

At the moment im living in Indonesia, Im moving back to Sydney Australia.
i want to bring my pet dog. i don't mine having to face quarantine
my dog is a little Chihuahua shes very small and only 3 kg shes older than 1 year in fact shes about 6 years old. I LOVE HER !! how much will this cost? and how long will it take? i know that Indonesia is a non AQIS COUNTRY but by any chance can this be possible ? shes had all her vaccination and she doesn't have rabies.

thanks please help me i really appreciate it !

Answer
It is simply impossible to bring a dog to Australia directly from a non-approved country such as Indonesia. The only way your dog will be able to come to Australia is if she is continuously resident in a DAFF approved country (e.g. Singapore) for a minimum of six months prior to export. There are NO exceptions to this rule.
http://www.daff.gov.au/aqis/cat-dogs/cat6?name=Indonesia

The total cost will depend on how much it costs for her to spend 6 months in an approved country before coming to Australia. Australian quarantine fees will be around $1300 + crate and shipping, another $2500 or thereabouts (for shipping to and from the approved country) + the costs for 6 months care in the approved country + pre-immigration vet costs in that country. I doubt if it would come to anything less than $6000 and it could be more.

I'm 14, my parents are not dog people, we might get a dog but they won't help out at all. Can I do it myself?t?

Maddy

I am 13 years old, and both my parents are NOT dog people. We r moving this summer and I have pretty much convinced them to get a dog when we move. The only problem is, although I know I will be the primary caretaker of the dog,after having another discussion about it, my parents make it clear that I was to do EVERYTHING and did not even want to occasional take the dog for a walk and pick up its poop or even feed it. What if I ever go away for a few days? I'm afraid they will not help out at all with the dog. I'm about to start highschool and could be busy. I am afraid I won't b able to handle it all alone. I need some advice on whether or not to follow through and get my first dog. Any advice?

Answer
Number 1; Getting a dog should be a family decision. Two out of 3 people don't want to deal with a puppy so in my opinion you should wait, as your parents are going to be unhappy with the pup during the teething stage, the chewing of the furniture and the pooping on the floor while your at school. If you get the dog this poor pup is likely to end up in the shelter, its simple not the right time or environment to be raising a pup in. Normally when a parents will say they will NOT help you. they normally mean it.

Since your 14. You will be going to school from at least 9am to 3.30pm, not including bus trips to and from school. Which means you be stuck with the pup for only 6 1/2hours, Your parents are stuck with an unwanted pup from 9.30am-3.30pm=Which mean they have the pup for 7 1/2 hours, and majority of responsiblity will fall on them.

Number 3; a pup need to be housetrainned. How the heck can you housetrain adog when your gone for 6 1/2hours, how can you obedience train it, and correctly socialise it when your out most of the day? and pups 8week+ until 6month need at least 3 feeds daily. Once 6month, 2feed daily.

Frankly 6 1/2 hours is far too long for a pup to be ignore. Max 2hours left alone

Number 4; I be surprised if a 14year old could literally afford the cost of a dog.

Approx cost, here in australia, these figures are well underestimated of what it litterally cost to own a dog.
Purchase Price=$1000
Food=$500
Vacinations=$150
Vet bills=$400
Spay/neuter=200
Bed=$150
Treats=$100
Chew bones=$150
Bowls=$25
Collar=$20
Leash=$20
Trainning=$450
Fence=$1500
Vitamins=$75
Flea Control=$200
Heartworm=$100
Shampoo=$25
Grooming=$400
Grooming Tools=$250
Dental Care=$40
Stain Cleaner=$75
Waste Disposal=$50
Trainning aids=$300
Deworming=$30
Boarding=200
Crate=$150
Car Restraint=$100
Approx 1 year cost =6,600
Approx yearly cost $2485.00

Total over the life of a 14 year old dog $38,905.00

What if I ever go away for a few days? I'm afraid they will not help out at all with the dog. This is not that difficult to fix, as an alernative to have them helping out is taken the pup to pet boarding for holidays while you go away=depending on the place it can cost 200+

What concerns me is these
I'm about to start highschool and could be busy! i can guarantee with high school that you will defiantly be busy. This is not the time to get a puppy, as you need to put all your attention into trainning a pup so it doesn't consistently puppy bite or jump up on people, socialise it and obedience trainning to ensure it developes into a well manner dog, as a mature and well socialised animal. Being bussy you will not be able to give it the attention and trainning it desperately leads which will also lead to unwanted behaviours.

I am afraid I won't b able to handle it all alone. I think you be able to handle the pup fine, but the problem is the cost of vet bills is my major concern. Some vet bills can run into the 6000+ range, the average is 150+, plus the cost of food, trainning, and the time a puppy needs. I'm sure most 14years old don't have this cash on a tree outside. As far as i'm aware, money doesn't grow on trees

I need some advice on whether or not to follow through and get my first dog. Any advice?

As much as I can tell you want a dog, i think the wise decision will NOT to get one right now. I think your wise to have your doubts which means your also smart enough to know this is not the right time for having a pup.

That Cute Puppy Requires Work

Watching a puppy grow can be a rewarding experience, and is often compared to the time requirements of raising a human baby. And just like a baby, you won't discover the dogs' true personality until it is nearing adulthood.

Young puppies require large amounts of time; needing to be fed 3-4 times a day, kept in a confined area indoors and let out every few hours to eliminate. The first few weeks can be filled with sleepless nights as the confused puppy seeks comfort and food. A puppy's growth phase requires much supervision and training. Housetraining is accomplished only after accidents. Teething ("chewing") lasts the first six-eight months. And puppies don't become mature adults until they are two years old, meaning they act like teenage dogs for a year or more.

If everyone in your home is gone for eight hours a day, your puppy probably won't get the attention he needs to meet your expectations. If you are gone much longer than eight hours a day, even adult dogs have high attention needs and may not be a good choice for your current lifestyle.

Adult Dogs Have Many Advantages

Most dogs given to shelters are young adolescents. They don't usually have behavior problems, they were just victims of well-meaning owners who didn't have the time, knowledge or patience for the needs of a dog.

While many shelter dogs could use a little more training, they usually bond quickly with new owners, and have fewer needs than a young puppy.

Many shelter dogs are already housetrained, though they often need some reminders and a few days of adjustment time after their stay at a shelter kennel. Even if they were sadly kept outdoors only, adult dogs often only need a day or two to learn that they live inside, but eliminate outside.

Many shelter dogs have already lived with children. People often assume that they should start with a puppy if they have children. Puppies have sharp baby teeth and can play too roughly with young children. There are many adult dogs in the shelter that are recommended for households with children. And, teaching children about the moral benefits of saving the life of a homeless adult pet is a lesson that will never be forgotten.

Adult dogs are easier to train than young puppies because they have longer attention spans. And many shelter dogs already know some basic commands taught in their first home or by shelter volunteers.

Dogs are generally more predictable. A dog isn't full-grown until it's a year old, so when adopting an adult dog you already know it's full size, health and real personality.

Dogs mature out of their "teenage phase" until they are often two years old. Adopting an older pet means that someone else already had his or her shoes chewed and you get the benefit of a dog who is more mellow and allows you to finish the entire newspaper.

Don't discount a dog that is approaching a senior age. Even an eight-year-old dog has the likelihood of many more good years to give you. A senior dog often offers the sweetest rewards. To learn more about adopting a senior dog, we recommend visiting the Senior Dog's Project (http://www.srdogs.com/).

You are taking a stand against the pet overpopulation crisis and saving an animal that will bond quickly with you, and shower you with gratitude and unconditional love.

All dogs are pack animals and have high needs for regular companionship and attention inside the home with their humans. If you are gone much longer than eight or nine hours a day, a dog may not be an appropriate pet for your busy lifestyle

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Does anyone have experience crate training newborn Boxer pups? I just got a 10 week old female and need help!?

Just the f

I'm looking for advice, suggestions on how to crate/potty train a 10 week old Boxer. Any advice is welcome. Also, do I have to have her ears cut?

Answer
Every year, millions of dogs are surrendered to the pounds and humane societies because they are believed to be "untrainable". Their "bad behaviour" includes chewing furniture and shoes, barking too much and ignoring commands - all problems that are not permanent and easily corrected if you take the time to do so.
As difficult as it may be to remember, your dog is not a little person. You cannot reason with a dog to get him to behave the way you would like. Even though they have shared our homes for thousands of years, dogs still retain many of the instincts and characteristics of the wild dogs from whom they are descended. Bred from ancestral wolves, dogs are both pack and den animals and for this reason, most dogs will accept a crate as part of their lifestyle. Like a baby's playpen, a crate or cage is a place in which your dog can stay when you are unable to keep an eye on him.
Choosing a Crate

A crate is a dog's very own special place. When you choose a crate, be sure to select the correct size for your dog. The crate must be large enough for the adult dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position. Crates usually come in two varieties: fiberglass and metal. A fiberglass crate will provide a greater sense of security for your dog; a metal crate is collapsible and will allow for better circulation.

Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

For crate training to be most successful, your dog must be properly introduced to the crate. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new dog home. Equip the crate with water and a blanket or towel. Start off slowly and increase the time gradually. Place the crate out of the way, but not away from the action: your dog is one of the family, and needs to feel he is not being banished when confined in the crate.

Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in the crate after disciplining him. Your dog needs to feel the crate is a happy, secure place. Select a command such as "Into your house". Encourage your dog to enter by tossing a treat into the crate. Leave the door open at first. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes, and praise him with a cheerful, positive voice. Leave your dog with a special chew toy, just for the times he is in the crate.

Scheduling is very important. Ideally, young puppies would not be crated for more than three hours at a time - they cannot be expected to hold their bladders for more than a couple of hours. Adult dogs should not be crated for much more than eight hours. If you must leave your puppy or dog for longer than the ideal length of time, be sure the crate is arranged to provide a bedding area and a papered area to accommodate "accidents". If your dog needs to use the papers in the crate, under no circumstances should you scold or punish him.

Any complaining your dog may do at the beginning is not usually caused by the crate, but by the new controls set by this unfamiliar environment. Do not let your dog out when he whines or complains. By doing so, you will only reward his bad behaviour. When your dog settles down for five minutes, release him from the crate.

Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you may practice leaving him alone for short periods of time. Allow your dog access to only certain areas of your home. As with children, place breakables and dangerous items well out of reach!

Your dog's crate is a tool that should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. It is not intended as a place to leave your dog and ignore him.

While crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. If your dog seems to be taking a long time to come around, do not give up! Your dog can be trained to be a fastidious member of your household regardless of age. Just be sure to give your dog every chance to do the right thing, at the right time, in the right place, and let your dog know you love him for him!

The Golden Rules of Crate Training:

The crate belongs to your dog. It should be off-limits to children.

You are the "pack leader", and you are in charge. Your dog needs to learn this!

Never let your dog out when he is whining. Giving in will make it more difficult to train him.

Remember, you are doing your dog a favour by keeping him safe and out of trouble when you are unable to supervise him.

Your dog's crate is not intended for long hours of use. When you are at home, your dog needs to be out of his "house" and in your company.

Never use the crate as a means of punishment.

A puppy is like a baby. He will relieve himself anywhere, anytime. Because a newly adopted adult dog is unfamiliar with your home, he may not understand where he should "go"! Housetraining, or teaching your dog to go outside to relieve himself, is an important lesson your dog must learn.
It is up to you, the new parent, to housetrain your new puppy or dog with patience, love and understanding.
CRATE TRAINING
In the wild, wolves live in a den or cave. It is important the entire wolf pack keep this area clean. The same idea works with your family pet. Your dogâs crate is his home, his bedroom. It is likely that your dog will not like to soil his bed. Therefore, he will wait until he is let out to do his business.
HOUSETRAINING WITH YOUR CRATE
On average, puppies can hold their bladders one hour for every month they have been alive, plus one hour. For example, if you have a three month old puppy, he can wait 3 + 1 = 4 hours. If you work longer than this, the best solution is to have someone (a neighbour, a relative, a dog walker) come in at an appropriate time to let your dog out.

100 PER CENT SUPERVISION
Supervision is the key to housetraining! While you are at home, your dog must be supervised. Whether you are watching television, making dinner, on the phone or on the computer, your puppy must be watched. While it sounds like an impossible task, it isnât. Keeping the crate in a social part of the house makes it easier. Using a house lead â a small, thin lead with a little clip on it â also helps immensely. Outside, you put a lead on your dog so you can control him. If the lead is removed after returning home, control is lost. For example, when watching television, have the lead tied to a couch leg. Your dog can have his blanket and toys with him. Heâll feel safe and comfortable. The majority of accidents happen when your pup wanders off and you havenât noticed. You donât want him to sneak off into the kitchen and find a puddle a short time later. If your pup is kept from wandering, the possibility of an accident is diminished because he will not eliminate where he is sitting. 100 per cent supervision means ensuring your dog is playing with you, in his crate, outside or on his house lead.

SCHEDULING
In the morning, take your dog outside. He should urinate and possibly have a bowel movement. Spend about five to seven minutes with him and then bring him in. Do not play with him yet. Feed him breakfast, either in the crate or with the lead, and supervise it. If your pup did not have a bowel movement earlier, take him back outside about 15 minutes after he has eaten. Use the lead to keep your pup moving along while outside. Otherwise, he may start sniffing, stopping and playing to avoid the job at hand. You can say âhurry upâ and your dog will begin to associate these words with the task at hand. Praise him excessively when he has eliminated. Bring him back in the house and place him in his crate if you are going to work. Continue to supervise him with the crate or the lead if you are home. When returning after being out, go directly to the crate, let him out, praise him and put him back in. Feed him his meal, take him outside 15 minutes after he has eaten, praise him after he eliminates, and bring him back in. Continue to follow the same steps consistently.

While you are home, you should take your pup outside on a regular basis. Even if your pup is in a crate or on a house lead, he still needs the opportunity to eliminate. Also, be careful what you wish for! A pup who barks to go outside may be cute and clever now. However, you must try not to fall into the habit of leaping up every time your dog wants in or out. It is a very submissive gesture on your part. Have your pup wait a moment or two.

Setting up a schedule is also a good idea. If your pup is under four months of age, take him out for five minutes every hour on the hour. If your pup is over four months old, take him out every second hour on the hour. The schedule will help you remember when to take him out. Go out for five minutes only. It provides the opportunity to eliminate even if your pup may not need to go. Take your dog out after active play and also after napping. If an accident occurs, you may have forgotten to take him out .

FEEDING TIME
Having a puppy drink a lot of water and then placing him in his crate is much more unkind than letting him be a bit thirsty for an hour or two. Adult dogs should have access to drinking water at all times. However, this is not the case for untrained pups. Most parents will not allow their children to drink a big glass of water before going to bed. Avoid setting your pup up for failure. Restrict his water intake to three or four drinks daily and make sure you remove the water dish about three hours before bedtime. This will help your dog sleep more comfortably.

If it is a hot evening, supply your pup with a few ice cubes. They will enter your dogâs system at a slower pace. When feeding your pup, provide a high-quality food that is a good source of protein. The food must be concentrated so your puppyâs body doesnât require much of it. If you feed less, your puppy eliminates less. Food is directly related to how well puppies do in their housetraining.

EXERCISE
It is important that your pup gets a lot of exercise, especially while crate training. You can play fetch, chase or hide and seek in your home. You can call âcomeâ at the same time to provide further training. Anyway you do it, your pup needs to be able to run and play.

Some crate questions. ?

Bree

It's me again - more questions in preparation for my coming rotti pup.

I have yet to choose a crate.

I've read that it's not good to get rid of or stop using a crate, even after it's served it's purpose as a training tool. This makes sense to me, of course - the crate is supposed to serve as a safe, den-like space. However, my dogs have always been right up in the bed and/or furniture with me, which is where I like them to be. I've found that dogs who are crated, at least those I've met, continue to prefer their crate as a resting area, rather than beside their owner. So, question one for those of you who do or have crated their dogs. If they aren't confined to the crate at night (after house broken, of course), do they stick near you or choose the crate? And during the day when they're out?

Another thing I'm having trouble deciding is plastic or wire. My cats often climb up onto the rabbit and ferret cages and sleep there. I suspect they'd do the same on a wire crate, and I'm uncertain if this would bother the dog. However, with where I will be putting the crate, no light will get into the crate through the sides and possibly not much through the front, and wonder if it would bother to dog to be in the dark like that. Also, my room can be somewhat warm, as I house my reptiles in there as well. With the wire crate, there'd be more ventilation and I don't think it would be unusually warm where it would be situated. With the plastic, it seems like there would be less air flow and I worry about it getting uncomfortably warm. What sort of setting is your crate in during the day?

It's going to cost around a hundred dollars or more, whichever crate I get. Obviously, the pup is going to grow quite large, and if I'm going to continue making the crate available after he's housebroken, I'll need something much bigger than what he'd use as a puppy. Rather than buy two, I was wondering if there's a good way to divide a large crate, so that I can buy one big enough to last. This question is more for those with large dogs - did you start with a smaller crate, or a large? Why?

Some say not to put food or water in the crate, some say do, and some say just one or the other. Which is it? The longest he will be in the crate, besides at night, is just over three hours (I leave at quarter to nine and get back around five after twelve for lunch, at which time he will be immediately taken out). I would obviously remove anything at night, but am uncertain about the best choice for during the day. Do you make food or water available in your crate? Have you always done that? Why/why not?

These probably sound a bit silly, but I've never even considered crating a dog before. Those I know who do crate their dogs have had little success in other areas (the dogs jump, chew, and/or have poor obedience skills), so I don't want to rely on their answers either. I'll probably be back with more questions, but this is all that's come to mind right now.

Answer
My dogs were all crate-trained and they still use them. I'll crate them when I'm gone for more than an hour or so, and will crate any dog that I don't trust not to get into things when I'm not around. They'll go into their crates when the doors are open to snooze or to get away from the other dogs as well. All, however, are still more than happy to snuggle with us, lie on the couch, and sleep next to the bed.

I use wire crates in my home and at shows. They're easy to clean, easy to see into, and look nicer than the plastic ones. If a particular dog likes a more enclosed area, I'll cover the top or even the sides with a sheet or crate cover and leave the front open. They also fold well for travel, carrying up stairs, etc. I also have two fabric crates for hotel rooms or when visiting friends when I don't want to carry a heavy crate along.

My dogs are in heavy-duty plastic Vari-Kennels in the car. PetPorter from Wal-Mart used to be decent, but the plastic is cheap and weak now. If you want a plastic crate, go for the Vari-Kennel. I've seen dogs survive some horrific car crashes in a plastic crate-- it flexes and is more secure. A wire crate in a car accident will crumple and can crush or even skewer the dog on broken wires. I have two plastic crates that live permanently in the back of my SUV. When the dogs are in the car, that's where they ride. I also like the plastic crates for young puppies being introduced to crating. They tend to feel more secure, and are much less likely to get a toe or foot caught and injure themselves while learning to accept being confined. Once they're comfortable with the idea, they will graduate to a wire crate. If you choose a plastic crate and feel there isn't enough airflow, set a box fan ahead of it in hot weather.

I don't put food or water in a crate for a puppy-- they'll spill it, and some pups have drowned if they happen to get caught in the water. A puppy shouldn't be crated long enough to require food and water in the crate. For my older dogs, I'll hang a 1 or 1.5 quart stainless steel bucket (find them in pet supply catalogs, online, or at dog shows) with a carabiner clip with the hinge to the outside so the dog can't catch a lip on it. All dogs in crates have collars removed.

Needless to say, I have more crates than dogs. Right now I have two smaller crates for puppies that are in the basement unused, three wire crates for in the house, three more in storage for shows, three Vari-Kennels, 2 heavy-duty fabric crates, and an x-pen.

Crates are invaluable for house training and keeping your dog safe, as well as providing your dog with his 'own space.' Good luck with your future puppy!

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