How do I best deal with my 5-week old Beagle puppy in the evenings without me getting disturbed in sleep?

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Q. I have had 2 sleepless nights just to tend to my puppy Beagle who cries in the evenings in his crate. I notice he takes 1.5 hours of sleep and 30 minutes play in between in regular intervals. I just do not want him though to just roam around the room because I need him to get used to staying in his crate. What do you think is the best thing to do?

Answer
Welcome to "Parenthood"... you deal with it . He'll grow out of it soon...

First off Where is the crate?
You may want to drag it into your room or where ever you are at night so that he can hear you and smell you and know he's not alone...or you can take a shirt or something you have just worn and put it in with him so that he has your scent handy for comfort...

Also sometimes people will use a clock to simulate a maternal heartbeat...that sometimes comforts a puppy...(or, at target, they sell a "mommy sounds bear" it's this little stuffed bear that has a heartbeat...)


I know it seems miserable now...but soon enough he'll get used to his crate and he'll get used to sleeping through the night...but its always hard in the beginning...just be patient with your little guy. :)

Extra patient...your breeder or whoever should be smacked for giving you the pup so early in the first place...dogs should not be seperated from their mothers so early...8 to 10 weeks is best...5 weeks is ridiculous borderline cruel. He should be next to his mommy nursing...that's why he's having such a hard time...take good care of him...and don't get mad when he cries at night...he's already having a rough start in life. be extra gentle with him.

How to get my puppy to sleep on her bed I just bought her?

aly (p

I just recently purchased a cute little bed for my doggy from Target! (:
But I can't get her to sleep in it! She likes it, but how can I bring her into sleeping on itt???
Please help!

Answer
You could try
->putting things that smell like you on the bed, like socks or an old t-shirt or even a perfume that you usually wear
->if she usually sleeps on your bed, put her bed on top of yours.
->If you have a crate for your dog, put the bed in the crate and once she gets used to it, take the bed out, remove the crate, and put the bed where the crate was, and later you can move it to where ever you would like.

Good luck ! :]

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What would i have to do to raise a siberian husky?

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Tkdman

I am thinking about getting a siberian husky ive never owned a dog before. I want to now what ill need todo regarding vaccinations and other medical stuff. how much will that cost. and i want to know how much will i be spending on food and other things each month for the husky.

Answer
Buying my Siberian cost me about $750, but that is because he had papers so it cost more.
When I first got him, his puppy exam at the vet was $46.00.
His Tracheobronchitis shot was $18.00
His DA2PP puppy initial was also $18.00
His first lyme disease was $27.00.

It turned out he had worms so the fecal lab analysis was $44.00 and the meds for getting rid of his worms were $18.00.

His puppy heart-worm pill was $5.50 and his <22 lb frontline plus was $16.00

I went to a different vet after that and his vaccinations became the DHLPP vaccination boosters but I have lost the paperwork with how much those cost, they were not very much though if I remember correctly.

His registration papers cost about $25 for simple registration (there are many options)

He is 9 months old now and I pay about $7 a month for his <50 lbs interceptor heart-worm (he is about 48 to 50 lbs now).
I pay $20 every 3 months for hartz tick and flea drops (frontline works better but hartz is a lot cheaper).

He was neutered when he first turned 8 months, the bill breakdown was like this: Pain pills $8.00, Catheterization $48.00, IV fluids $16, Analgesic injection $13, Anesthesia for first hour $69, Patient monitoring: $16, actual neuter surgery $105, elizabethan collar (to not lick wound) $12.
I also got optional blood-work on him before surgery that was $46 and microchip placement that was $53. My total bill was about 385 dollars.

I feed him Nutro natural choice large breed puppy food. One 35 pound bag costs $50 at petco and lasts me about 2 months or so. If buying from petco, they track how many bags you buy, and your 10th is free, if you buy from a local store, you can sign up online and Nutro will mail you a slip that you give to your local pet store so they can track your dog food and when you get 10 bags they can mail it in for reimbursement for the 10th bag, so either way you can get the 10th for free.

He tears through toys like no other, but two toys have lasted, one is an orca bone offered by petstages, available at petco, target, etc. The other is a tuff tuff bone, the only fabric toy that he has not torn up, I got mine from petco, the walmart and target similar ones get destroyed within the day.

My husky is crate trained. When I got him, I used a $60 large crate that I bought from walmart. Save yourself the trouble and buy a more expensive expanding crate that can go up to extra large. Even though he is only 50 lbs, he can not even sit up straight in the large crate, I had to get an extra large one for him, luckily my friend had one they didn't need so I didn't have to pay any more money.

Depending on your dogs temperament, you may have to think about puppy classes. I've heard the ones at petco and petsmart are around $100 for the basic class. My Siberian was my first dog I've had to take care of all on my own, although I grew up with dogs, it is different when all the work is on you. My Siberian is stubborn and very smart, he learns different and new ways to be annoying all the time. I have not had the need for professional training though by being clear about what I expect from him and consistent with praise and punishment. I socialize him at the dog park every two weeks or so which is free for the park I go to, but some parks do charge 5-10 dollars a day, usually indoor or well monitored parks.

You need to make sure you can exercise your husky properly. I take my dog on 3-4 1 to 1.5 hour walks a week and on the weekends depending on weather i'll take him on a 6-9 mile hike on Saturday and a 4-6 mile hike on Sunday, plus lots more fetch in the yard. He still has too much energy after all this.

You also need to be able to contain him without running away. I have a 100 foot run for my Siberian that i use when i'm out in the yard with him. I make sure his collar it tight so he can't slip away and I've had good luck with it. It is best to have a large fenced in yard for your Sibe, and many claim electric fences didn't stop their Siberians.

How can I juggle work, sleep, and my an over energetic dog, with a less than cooperative boyfriend?

Nicole

My boyfriend and I just got a black lab named Buddy, on my insistence, as my boyfriend (who from now on will be referred to as the wife) is going to be joining the service soon, and I don't want to be left alone while he's gone. Right now we work overnight at walmart, and come home as soon as we can to spend time with Buddy. But every time we come home, we find a new object he's gone and chewed up. I've given him tons of chew toys, and he still has the ones from his old owners, he has plenty of food before we leave, and we walk him before going out, but still, he finds issue with at least one object in the house. It's frustrating me to no end. Also, the wife has completely different ideas on pet training. He gives buddy food from his plate, then complains when buddy won't leave him alone to eat. He gets upset with me when I have to push Buddy off of me or risk bruising, but let buddy jump on him once and hell shall be paid.

I don't want to have to douse my home in bitter yuck, lock buddy in a crate or small area, or remove all of my personal possessions from my living room to remedy his chewing problem. (Even if I did all that, I fealr my carpets may become his next target.) But what else am I to do? I'm open to nearly anything. Also, how can I combine a disciplined training style with a relaxed and carefree training style?

Answer
If your Labrador is an adult dog, is he taken out before work and given the level and type of exercise needed to tire him out physically? Tired dogs do not wreak havoc inside the house when left alone or bark at everything in its line of sight because it is something to do (not saying this is a behavior your dog shows).

Wired dogs with surplus energy, are less likely to settle down and wait for the humans in their household to come home.

In addition find a dog club and sign up for classes. It would be useful if you and your boyfriend had the same expectations of the dog (routine, structure, rules, boundaries, good manners) and attitude to handling the dog.

If a crate is large enough for the dog to stand up comfortable and turn around and not used as a way to keep the dog from being underfoot when people are home and the dogâs needs are met, it is a useful way of keeping a dog safely contained in one spot when the owner is not there to supervise it.

An alternative to a crate is a âdog proofâ room, with nothing left inside that could be destroyed or ingested possibly casing a GI blockage.

Read up on and implement NILF (nothing in life is free - principle being dogs have to work for what they want) and leave a copy out for your boyfriend to read, I suggest. What he does with the information is up to him.

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How do I crate train a 6-month-old dog?

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LR

I just acquired a 6-month-old Brussels Griffon. He is not yet housebroken, crate-trained or leash-trained so, as you can see, we're a bit behind. He's a very sweet dog and sleeps quietly in his crate. I'm just looking for some additional tips, seeing as most of what I've read is targeted at younger puppies.

Answer
flannelpajamas you are completely wrong and have no idea what you are talking about. Please don't give out wrong information. Crate training isn't being mean to your dog and it isn't punishment. It is beneficial to a dog and is often the best thing to do when keeping an unhousebroken dog.

Anyway, just keep letting him sleep in his crate and take him out to go to the bathroom often. Always keep a treat with you and when he does go, give him it and praise him. It shouldn't take too long if you keep up the good work.

What can I do to help my neutered year-old male cat stop pooping on the floor near the litter box?

Sara K

Prior to the introduction of a new female cat, my Riley never went outside the litter box. Now he does it about once a day; it makes no difference if the litter box has just been cleaned. Several friends have told me to crate him following the incident, with a box and food in a large crate. But I am wondering if there are non-toxic products that might keep him away from his target area that is roughly four feet from his litter box. Please help!

Answer
Here are some suggestions to your litter box problems:
- Provide a box for each cat
- Provide constant access to a box
- Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or
- Discontinue new disinfectant
- Move box to where it was previously used
- Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box
- Move food and water away from litter box
- If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day (OR you can simply place a bowl of food there, because cats do not like to go where they eat)
- If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there
- Experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter)
- Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it
- Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes (one to pee in and one to poop in)

Problems arise when your cat doesn't like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. Let's be fair here. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span. First lesson learned: You did not train your cat to use a litter box. At best, you offered the cat something recognizable as litter material. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options:

1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam.
2) If you aren't scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now.
3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell.
4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location (such as next to the washing machine)? Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location.
5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you'll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it.
6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place (maybe a bed room) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible.
7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you'll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them.
There is one more important distinction that you'll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist.

Correcting the Problem
The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive. Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers. At the same time, you must break the cat's habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent -- or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot. It's important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive - such as a strong citrus or floral - can also keep the cat away from the area.

When to See the Vet
If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian.
Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet's doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis - which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box - and constipation.

Always scoop litter boxes twice a day. When cleaning the litter box, use a mild detergent and finish by rinsing very thoroughly. Never use strong-smelling pine cleansers or ammonia. If you want to disinfect the box with bleach, dilute it with water first. Rinsing the box with boiling water is also effective. With covered cat boxes, the smell can be worse, especially with high humidity, so you must be willing to clean it more.


Odor removing tips:
Remember, a catâs sense of smell is fourteen times stronger than that of a human. This is why it is so important for you to thoroughly clean the urine spots. You cat probably still smells the urine in the carpet, and this can make them want to âre-markâ that spot over and over.

To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you donât like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas Iâve found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.

What Wonât Work⦠There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humansâ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However; you will need more to remove the odor for your catâs nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application, (Natureâs Miracle is one of them). The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.

Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.

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