Chonsie
My yellow lab chews up everything.
Answer
In my experience, this is a phase that must be suffered through. I highly suggest crate training and crating when the dog is not supervised. Liberal use of chew toys should help.
Labs are genetically predisposed to chewing. The same instincts that make Labradors great retrievers also make them want to expend their energy chewing. Chewing is a normal and healthy behavior that should be encouraged and directed in appropriate ways. Not only do chew toys allow labs to use their natural instincts, but chewing helps to exercise their jaws, get rid of excess energy, and can help clean their teeth.
Most dogs love rawhides. Since labs are generally âpower-chewersâ I recommend getting either compressed rawhide or retriever rolls for maximum chewing time. The knotted rawhides and most rawhide shapes just donât last as long at our house.
However, rawhides just donât do well with some dogs and can cause diarrhea, gas, or vomiting. I don't know why, although it could have something to do with the chemicals they use to process the hide â some countries may use formaldehyde or arsenic in the curing process. The recommendation is to only use rawhide that says "made in the USA" because we have stricter processing standards here than they do in other parts of the world. If your dog does well with rawhide thatâs great and there really is no reason to stop giving you dog a supervised rawhide treat. Please make sure to watch your dog when he is chewing on his rawhide as larger pieces can pose a choking hazard if swallowed.
Nylabones may offer a safer option. There are three levels of bone hardness â gumabone is the softest, then regular nylabone, and Galileo bones which are the hardest. A regular nylabone or Galileo would be the best bet for most Labradors. Nylabone also makes edible bones. Depending on how powerful a chewer your dog is, these bones may last quite awhile or only a few minutes. In our house weâve found carrots to last just as long and be much less expensive. (Photo: former L.E.A.R.N. foster dog, Beamish, shows off his Galileo bone (left) and a sterilized beef bone (right).)
Kong toys look like a red or black beehive and can be found at just about any pet store. You can put any type of treats into a Kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/how2use.html has a variety of recipes that you can try, or you can make up your own. To make a Kong last a little longer you can try freezing it. Also, the tighter you pack a Kong, the harder it is to get the food out. I find using both soft and mushy items in a large black Kong works well. We use over ripe banana, left over bread, rice or noodles, and mushy cooked carrots all seem to take a little longer, especially if there is frozen peanut butter or cream cheese over the top and all of the ingredients are packed in tightly.
You can also stuff treats into a sterilized bone. I get mine from Dr. Foster and Smith and none of them have splintered yet, although after 2 years they are getting ragged and need to be thrown out. Not only do the dogs have to work to get the goodies out of the middle (which is a little harder than a Kong because the bones are longer), but some dogs just like to chew on the plain bone. A marrow bone could be another option along these same lines. Get a large, raw soup bone from your butcher or grocery store. Be careful where your dog chews on one of these because they are quite messy and greasy. These are very rich and can make your dogâs stomach a little upset, so give them under supervision and with moderation. These are not to be eaten in one sitting!
You could also try giving your dog meals in a Buster Cube or Molecuball. Both make the dog figure out how to get food out of a hole in the toy. My dogs have been known to spend 30-45 minutes rolling the toys with their noses and batting at it with their paws. My preference is for the Molecuball because it's a little quieter and sturdier, but it's easier to make the treats come out. The Buster Ball is more challenging but pretty loud. I've found that if I put some broken bits of dog biscuit in a Molecuball, then the food doesn't come out as easily. (Photo: Beamish shows off his treat-hunting prowess with a large Moleculeball.)
If you really want to torture, er, challenge, your dog, you can knot the food toys in an old rag before giving it to your dog. Then the dog has to figure out how to get the rag open before getting to the toy and then the food. Make sure to keep an eye on your dog, though, to make sure that she doesn't eat the rag.
Outdoors in warm weather, or in any stain-proof area, you can try giving your dog popsicles. Use any size container and fill it with water thatâs been flavored with low-sodium beef or chicken broth. Most dogs really enjoy chewing on ice and I redirected many inappropriate puppy chew fests by giving my dog a chunk of ice to chew on. In puppies the popsicle not only tastes good and gives the dog something to do, but it can also help to numb the sore gums in a teething pup
In my experience, this is a phase that must be suffered through. I highly suggest crate training and crating when the dog is not supervised. Liberal use of chew toys should help.
Labs are genetically predisposed to chewing. The same instincts that make Labradors great retrievers also make them want to expend their energy chewing. Chewing is a normal and healthy behavior that should be encouraged and directed in appropriate ways. Not only do chew toys allow labs to use their natural instincts, but chewing helps to exercise their jaws, get rid of excess energy, and can help clean their teeth.
Most dogs love rawhides. Since labs are generally âpower-chewersâ I recommend getting either compressed rawhide or retriever rolls for maximum chewing time. The knotted rawhides and most rawhide shapes just donât last as long at our house.
However, rawhides just donât do well with some dogs and can cause diarrhea, gas, or vomiting. I don't know why, although it could have something to do with the chemicals they use to process the hide â some countries may use formaldehyde or arsenic in the curing process. The recommendation is to only use rawhide that says "made in the USA" because we have stricter processing standards here than they do in other parts of the world. If your dog does well with rawhide thatâs great and there really is no reason to stop giving you dog a supervised rawhide treat. Please make sure to watch your dog when he is chewing on his rawhide as larger pieces can pose a choking hazard if swallowed.
Nylabones may offer a safer option. There are three levels of bone hardness â gumabone is the softest, then regular nylabone, and Galileo bones which are the hardest. A regular nylabone or Galileo would be the best bet for most Labradors. Nylabone also makes edible bones. Depending on how powerful a chewer your dog is, these bones may last quite awhile or only a few minutes. In our house weâve found carrots to last just as long and be much less expensive. (Photo: former L.E.A.R.N. foster dog, Beamish, shows off his Galileo bone (left) and a sterilized beef bone (right).)
Kong toys look like a red or black beehive and can be found at just about any pet store. You can put any type of treats into a Kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/how2use.html has a variety of recipes that you can try, or you can make up your own. To make a Kong last a little longer you can try freezing it. Also, the tighter you pack a Kong, the harder it is to get the food out. I find using both soft and mushy items in a large black Kong works well. We use over ripe banana, left over bread, rice or noodles, and mushy cooked carrots all seem to take a little longer, especially if there is frozen peanut butter or cream cheese over the top and all of the ingredients are packed in tightly.
You can also stuff treats into a sterilized bone. I get mine from Dr. Foster and Smith and none of them have splintered yet, although after 2 years they are getting ragged and need to be thrown out. Not only do the dogs have to work to get the goodies out of the middle (which is a little harder than a Kong because the bones are longer), but some dogs just like to chew on the plain bone. A marrow bone could be another option along these same lines. Get a large, raw soup bone from your butcher or grocery store. Be careful where your dog chews on one of these because they are quite messy and greasy. These are very rich and can make your dogâs stomach a little upset, so give them under supervision and with moderation. These are not to be eaten in one sitting!
You could also try giving your dog meals in a Buster Cube or Molecuball. Both make the dog figure out how to get food out of a hole in the toy. My dogs have been known to spend 30-45 minutes rolling the toys with their noses and batting at it with their paws. My preference is for the Molecuball because it's a little quieter and sturdier, but it's easier to make the treats come out. The Buster Ball is more challenging but pretty loud. I've found that if I put some broken bits of dog biscuit in a Molecuball, then the food doesn't come out as easily. (Photo: Beamish shows off his treat-hunting prowess with a large Moleculeball.)
If you really want to torture, er, challenge, your dog, you can knot the food toys in an old rag before giving it to your dog. Then the dog has to figure out how to get the rag open before getting to the toy and then the food. Make sure to keep an eye on your dog, though, to make sure that she doesn't eat the rag.
Outdoors in warm weather, or in any stain-proof area, you can try giving your dog popsicles. Use any size container and fill it with water thatâs been flavored with low-sodium beef or chicken broth. Most dogs really enjoy chewing on ice and I redirected many inappropriate puppy chew fests by giving my dog a chunk of ice to chew on. In puppies the popsicle not only tastes good and gives the dog something to do, but it can also help to numb the sore gums in a teething pup
Is 10 hours too long? Crate adult dog?
peace
Is 10 hours too long to crate my dog when I go to work? I cannot leave her out unsupervised because she's not 100% house broken yet, and she loves to chew.
I am thinking about having someone over during the day to let her out for a few minutes to run outside. But, I'm worried what could happen if that person didn't come over one day? Would my dog's schedule get messed up?
I'm hoping this crate training phase will not last forever. PS - This dog is 1.5 years old, I had her for 1 year, I'm her fourth owner. I think she has had a rough time, getting passed around - from Illinois USA to Montreal Canada to Ottawa Canada to me (outside Ottawa).
I forgot to mention, I only go to work 3 days a week.
I can't leave her outside because of the wild life here... cayotes, fox, raccoon, fishers, hawks, stray dogs.
Oh, yeah! It's only 10 or 12 celsius during the day outside. To cold.
No I would not like to be in a crate for 10 hours, but she's a dog. Can you offer me useful, insightful advice? Or ya just going to nag?
I am definately not going to teach her that peeing in the house is in anyway a good idea. No towel or pee pads. That'll just confuse her, and that will make it hard for me to bring her anywhere. I like to bring her on holidays and weekend trips. Ocasioanally. I do give her plenty of toys, nylabones and squeeky toys are her favorite :o) I don't think giving her raw hide is a good idea, incase she swallows a big chuck - it upsets her tummy too. She can pretty much chew and destroy a plastic crate liner in one day. She once chewed up my towels, drapes and toilet paper (in the cupboard) in one day. She even jumped up on the counter! She's only 6 inches tall. :O We sometimes call her hoodeenee.
What happens if that person doesn't show up sometimes? Bad snow storm etc. Will it put us back in housetraining?
Answer
Crate training is the easiest way to housetrain dogs, and it also teaches them how to settle down and entertain themselves when you're gone. However, crates won't work if they're used to punish a dog or keep him "out of sight, out of mind." Use the crate only when necessary, give your dog plenty of breaks to stretch his legs and to play and bond with you, and make crate time more pleasant by stocking it with toys.
http://dogtime.com/housetraining-crate-training.html
Crate training is the easiest way to housetrain dogs, and it also teaches them how to settle down and entertain themselves when you're gone. However, crates won't work if they're used to punish a dog or keep him "out of sight, out of mind." Use the crate only when necessary, give your dog plenty of breaks to stretch his legs and to play and bond with you, and make crate time more pleasant by stocking it with toys.
http://dogtime.com/housetraining-crate-training.html
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Title Post: How do you get yellow lab dogs to stop chewing things up?
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