Sabtu, 19 April 2014

Advice on rehabilitating a shy dog?

Q. So, I've been fostering for Border Collie Rescue for a while now. Today my foster dog has an adoption appointment, so hopefully that goes well. The VP of the rescue asked me if I wanted to take a shy girl who needs confidence building. I have worked with male-aggressive dogs, ones I had to teach how to sit still(he would pace back and forth instead of lay down), etc...I have never worked with a dog that needs confidence building before, BUT, there has to be a first time for it, just like with the other types of dogs I've worked with. I'll be asking the VP for advice, of course! But I was also hoping that any of you with experience in this could give me advice/pointers.
Also, where should I put her crate? I normally have it in the living room so the dogs can watch everyone come and go when they have to be in there, but would it be better to put the crate in a more quiet place?

Thanks guys!
Hollywood - Don't think that'll work so well. This dog is so fearful that at her current foster home, the first few days she hid under the car in their yard and they literally had to reach under there and pull her out, because she wouldn't come out on her own...


Answer
I have fostered many dogs. I have fostered dogs right out of the puppy mill to the vet, to the groomer and then to the foster home. No time for nothing.

I remember a puppy mill raid in Tampa my rescue was part of. We took 44 dogs. All breeds. Some were Maltese. One foster home took a very tiny (3 pounds) approximately 5 year old Maltese and when she got her to the arena where we were showing the dogs, she was very stressed. She said she has had the dog for 3 days, it has not eaten, drank and when she puts it outside to go potty it runs away from here and hid behind the A/C condenser for 4 hours. She finally figured out how to get her out.

I told her I would be more than happy to take the dog. While we were there, I took the dog, a leash and carried her outside. I did not take treats because a FEARFUL dog does NOT react to treats.

I put her on the ground with the leash on her and made her move by pushing her butt off the ground and gently pulling the lead. She had NEVER felt grass before.

After about 2 minutes of shaking and panting, I got her to walk about a foot. Then we went another foot and then after about 15 minutes she was running. While I was making silly noises & getting stared at.

I took her back inside, put her in the kennel, she drank a bowl of water, curled up and slept. When she woke up, I took her out to potty, we ran a bit more, she came back, had a drink and a little food.

Took her home, had her for 3 days (I think) went through about 100 applications for her and found the right one. By the time she left my house, she was eating, drinking, taking walks, playing with my other dogs etc.

I did the same thing with several other dogs the rescue had.

Don't call this dog *fearful* yet. Because there is a great chance the dog is NOT genetically fearful.

Don't treat the dog with soft gloves. First thing you do? Get it outside walking on a leash. Yes, there will be fear of noises, traffic, other people, dogs etc. But even if it is for only 2 minutes the first time? Do it. Then give lots of praise. And keep doing it. Lots of praise.

It is really not as hard as people want to make it. I have found the best way to boost any dogs confidence is to put them in a situation which requires the dog to be flooded with much outside disturbances, you stay calm, you ignore the *fear* you keep on going and then you give much praise.

That is the way I have done this forever.

Moving cross country with two small dogs...need advice, please?

Q. I am driving from Las Vegas, NV to Tampa, FL with one or two of my pomeranians. What should I have them in while I am driving in my car? They have crates but is there something smaller/more comfortable? They are four pounds and ten pounds, fyi.
Any suggestions, advice, website links,etc would be very much appreciated.
Thank you in advance.


Answer
If they are comfortable in their crates then that is what I would use. Many crates can be seatbelted down, preferable in the back seat. If they are comfortable sharing a crate then do so as they will probably appreciate the company of one another.
Limit food intake before traveling if they are prone to motion sickness; they can always tank up in the evenings.
Dramamine or benadryl can be given for carsickness but I do not know dosage for a dog that small; try this site:
http://animalsunlimited.net/meds.htm
Be conscious of starting and stopping slowly so they don't get thrown about.
Towels and baby wipes and plastic bags for accidents.
Fill a couple gallon jugs with the water they are currently drinking; offer frequently esp if you are running A/C.
Crack the windows while you are filling your tank - gas fumes aren't great for them but the heat will be even worse on them, esp with those coats. I know you can't run the car while fueling but you might consider a second key so you can keep it running while you go in and buy a soda, pay for your gas, use the restroom, etc. Unless of course you have a traveling companion....
Get them well-fitted harnesses for potty stops.
Microchip them and link it to old and new addresses.
Put your cell phone number on ID tags.
Have health certificates/vet records handy.
Motel 6 accepts small pets, others probably do as well; you may want to pre-plan that while you still have internet access.




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How do you potty train a dog?

Q. He is about 1 year old. We got him from a pound. He moved from the streets, to a high-kill shelter in Tennessee, to a boarding home in Connecticut, to my home in NJ. He is a mixed breed of Shihz Tzu, Poodle, and Lhasa Apaso. HELPâ¥
I let him out every hour, and he still goes in the house! So that's really his only problem!
MY DOG IS COMPLETLY TRAINED!:(


Answer
Below are Crate Training/House Training Tips.

When you are leaving the house, or going to bed for the night, do the following. Never actually shove the dog in the crate, either throw treats in there, or sqeek a toy and put it in there. The dog will eventually learn that they have to go in, if you place them in front of the crate, and say the word.. Place the dog in the crate, along with some safe toys. Close the door, give a treat, and say your crate command.(Such as, night night, crate, or bed). Leave.
**I DO NOT SUGGEST CRATING PUPPIES THAT ARE YOUNGER THAN 12 WEEKS**
Repeat slowly extending the time, and make sure you leave time between kennel times, to spend with your puppy. Never expect your puppy to stay in his kennel longer than the age he is in months plus one. (example, if your puppy is 5 months old, only leave it in there for 6 hours. No dog/puppy should stay in it's kennel longer than 7-8 hours.

Rules:
1.Try to teach them that their crate is a good place. Reward them when you place them in the crate. This is teaching them, that a treat comes with good crate behavior. Always keep your dog in the crate, unless you can keep a good eye on him.
2. Another option, if you do not want to place your dog in the kennel all of the time, hook his leash to your belt loop, this way he can not go off and use the restroom somewhere, and you don't know about it.
3.Always take him outside after;(ON A LEASH); rough play, after he eats or drinks, after being let out of his crate, after he wakes up after a night or if he is,
sniffing,staring at you,whining, or sitting at the door.
4.Don't ever hit your dog, or rub his nose in his mess. This will just teach the dog to be afraid of you.
5.Don't feed him or give him to much water, before you plan to put him in his cage.
6.Don't expect your dog to hold it's restroom, more than the age of the dog in months, plus one. But no dog should have to hold it's bladder more than a 7-8 hours.
7.Be patient!! That is the key, to housetraining. Of course if you get too overwelmed, you can always buy a book, or ask a professional trainer!
8.Always, when he goes to the bathroom ouside, give lots of praise and treats!!
9. If you expect your puppy to go outside, and dont use puppy pads when he gets older, starting out with puppy pads, is not a good idea, because this trains them that it's ok to go inside, and then before they know it, they cant, it is to confusing for them.
10. Work out a schedule that fits your lifestyle. Feed your dog the same time every day.
11.When you go outside, stay outside until he uses the restroom.
12. Dogs while first potty training, need to go outside every 2-3 hours.
13.Do not make the dog smell his mess, strike him or lock him ouside. This will just confuse the pup, and it might be afraid of you.
14. Ignore whining, unless you KNOW that he/she has to go to the bathroom.
Good Luck!

Flying with nervous dog, from Oslo, Norway, to Newark, NJ?

Q. I'll be moving home to the US this summer, and I'm planning on bringing my dog with me. Only problem is he's very nervous. I'll be flying home in July, and have my grandparents ship the dog for me around September or so, so he'll be flying on his own. I'll pick him up at Newark of course. Anyhow, as he is extremely nervous (I can't even raise my voice without him shivering), I'm wondering if he'll survive the flight? Is it possible for him to die of fear? He'll fly with United Airlines, and i don't think they allow drugged animals to fly. It's an 8hr30min flight, so it's pretty long. Does anyone have any advice for me here?

Thanks in advance


Answer
Never fly a drugged pet - and you are right, many airlines won't accept a drugged dog - it's far better he doesn't come round m id-flight, and panic. You could use something like Rescue Remedy in his water for a week or so before flying, and there are non-drug remedies, like Kalm Aid (UK) which work. If he's used to being in a crate, that will help, and if he's not yet, get his airline crate and set it up in your living area, door open, so he starts to use it, hopefully, as his bed. That would make him more familiar with being in there.

I've flown my hounds, both ways (different hounds) from the UK to Toronto which is not quite as long as the flight you are doing, but still significant. In all cases they arrived, both ends, just fine. I hope your dog isn't a young puppy - the youngest I had shipped from the UK to Canada was 5 months. I took one of 4 months to Geneva from London, going on the same flight with him although he was in the hold. But that flight was short, obviously. Again he was fine. I'd not fly a younger puppy however.

Obviously you'll need to have him in for a health check (and paperwork) before he flies, so at that point, your vet should check his heart to make sure he's fit.

If there's any possibility of him expiring during the flight (very unlikely - once the flight is underway, he'll probably settle down for a sleep - it's just the preliminaries that could upset him), don't take him with you. Much as I know how you feel - initially I refused to go to Canada unless my hounds could come with me!!! - perhaps if he's that timid, finding him a good home where you are would be better?

I would say I think you are wise going out first, and getting him shipped to you once you have your accommodation sorted out.

Add - I'd seriously doubt ANY airline would allow you to have a dog with you in the cabin, for a long haul flight like that!!! Well, well, strange that I've flown both ways across the Atlantic many many times during the 15 years we were in Canada, and never saw a dog in the cabin. I can't see how any dog can be in the cabin with other passengers for upwards of 8.5 hours without stinking the place out, for starters.




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