Can i stack my dog crates/kennels? Small home.?

Something'

They aren't designed to be stacked but they both are big. Both are inside dogs.

The story is that we had our beagle for 2 years and we were fine, but then a 3 month stray (the lab, Yes! She was a stray.) showed up on our yard and we kept her.

One is this one in MEDIUM. for my beagle that is 30 lbs
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Remington-Wire-Kennel-Extra-Large-Cats-Dogs/13034532

The other one is this one in the Largest size. For my 6 month lab/mix that is 50 lbs

http://www.petco.com/product/111704/Midwest-iCrate-Double-Door-Folding-Dog-Crates.aspx?CoreCat=firstinresult_carrierscratesandkennels

If i cannot stack them does anyone have any suggestions? I rather work with what i have and not have to purchase stackable kennels.

Keep in mind my house is small. They only go into the kennels to sleep at night, and when we run errands that will take less than 4 hours.

Answer
Don't they're too unstable and the top one could fall off. I can only see this working if both were attached to the walls next to them. I.e. both are in a corner. The bottom one is bolted to the floor and both are bolted to the wall behind and to the side.

The floor can be skipped if its an apartment. To bolt them to the wall locate the studs in the walls. Run at least two bolts into both the rear and side wall for each crate. I.e. 8 total or 4 per crate. Each bolt goes into a wall stud. Each bolt has a fender washer inside the crate just under the bolt head. These bolts are 1/4 inch by 2" long minimum.

Pre drill with a 3/8's inch drill bit and use a wrench to screw in the bolts. Don't forget those fender washers. Any hardware store can sell you both items and the wrench as well as a stud finder.

If the rear wall does not have two studs you can use the wall board. Ask at the hardware store how to safely seat a bolt into a wall board. Special bolts are needed but still use the fender washers.

How to keep my Houdini German shepherd in a crate or kennel?

Apple Juic

Well we went out of town so she flipped her cage on it's side and got out of the other side that was on top. She has figured out how to kick in the back and walk over it and get out. She can get things around her cage and eat it. She actually really loves her crate, she is in there most of the day, but she doesn't like being locked in there when we leave sometimes, so hers is pretty messed up. This is frequent, just enough to have ruined her cage. Can you suggest a durable cage/kennel for large dogs for indoor use?
Well you should assume, as it makes an ass out of YOU. We have a HUGE back yard, and a 9 foot tall fence, which she can climb over and escapre. Did the houdini part clue you in at all? I was thinking of those kennels with the hard plastic walls or whatever with the "windows" in the? Her cage is shot to hell right now.

Answer
The Remington Pet Carrier is really good. I have an XL one. My dog use to flip it over when he was being crate trained, but he could never get out of it. He finally figured out that it was useless and is now very well behaved.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

what is the best dog bed?

James

We have an older Great Dane named Sam who is getting older. He breaks bed after bed down. We are at our wits end! He needs some good support because he is in pain. We don't want any of the cheap egg crate crap foam! Suggestions?

Answer
Without a doubt BuddyRest memory foam dog beds are the best! We bought one over a year ago for our mastiff Brutus and he loves it. We looked at the Tempurpedic dog bed, but its ugly and made in CHINA! It conforms to his body and really does help with his arthritic pain. You are on the right track STAY AWAY FROM EGG CRATE FOAM and "ORTHOPEDIC foam". That stuff is Cheap chinese garbage. Brutus has destroyed tons of those. buddyrest's beds are super durable and they havent shown any wear and tear. The cover they have also is a better cover then anything else out there, its waterproof suede. The fabric is awesome! and 100% MADE IN THE USA!....Check em out thebuddyrest.com
We highly recommend,

How do you get yellow lab dogs to stop chewing things up?

Chonsie

My yellow lab chews up everything.

Answer
In my experience, this is a phase that must be suffered through. I highly suggest crate training and crating when the dog is not supervised. Liberal use of chew toys should help.

Labs are genetically predisposed to chewing. The same instincts that make Labradors great retrievers also make them want to expend their energy chewing. Chewing is a normal and healthy behavior that should be encouraged and directed in appropriate ways. Not only do chew toys allow labs to use their natural instincts, but chewing helps to exercise their jaws, get rid of excess energy, and can help clean their teeth.

Most dogs love rawhides. Since labs are generally âpower-chewersâ I recommend getting either compressed rawhide or retriever rolls for maximum chewing time. The knotted rawhides and most rawhide shapes just donât last as long at our house.

However, rawhides just donât do well with some dogs and can cause diarrhea, gas, or vomiting. I don't know why, although it could have something to do with the chemicals they use to process the hide â some countries may use formaldehyde or arsenic in the curing process. The recommendation is to only use rawhide that says "made in the USA" because we have stricter processing standards here than they do in other parts of the world. If your dog does well with rawhide thatâs great and there really is no reason to stop giving you dog a supervised rawhide treat. Please make sure to watch your dog when he is chewing on his rawhide as larger pieces can pose a choking hazard if swallowed.

Nylabones may offer a safer option. There are three levels of bone hardness â gumabone is the softest, then regular nylabone, and Galileo bones which are the hardest. A regular nylabone or Galileo would be the best bet for most Labradors. Nylabone also makes edible bones. Depending on how powerful a chewer your dog is, these bones may last quite awhile or only a few minutes. In our house weâve found carrots to last just as long and be much less expensive. (Photo: former L.E.A.R.N. foster dog, Beamish, shows off his Galileo bone (left) and a sterilized beef bone (right).)

Kong toys look like a red or black beehive and can be found at just about any pet store. You can put any type of treats into a Kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/how2use.html has a variety of recipes that you can try, or you can make up your own. To make a Kong last a little longer you can try freezing it. Also, the tighter you pack a Kong, the harder it is to get the food out. I find using both soft and mushy items in a large black Kong works well. We use over ripe banana, left over bread, rice or noodles, and mushy cooked carrots all seem to take a little longer, especially if there is frozen peanut butter or cream cheese over the top and all of the ingredients are packed in tightly.

You can also stuff treats into a sterilized bone. I get mine from Dr. Foster and Smith and none of them have splintered yet, although after 2 years they are getting ragged and need to be thrown out. Not only do the dogs have to work to get the goodies out of the middle (which is a little harder than a Kong because the bones are longer), but some dogs just like to chew on the plain bone. A marrow bone could be another option along these same lines. Get a large, raw soup bone from your butcher or grocery store. Be careful where your dog chews on one of these because they are quite messy and greasy. These are very rich and can make your dogâs stomach a little upset, so give them under supervision and with moderation. These are not to be eaten in one sitting!

You could also try giving your dog meals in a Buster Cube or Molecuball. Both make the dog figure out how to get food out of a hole in the toy. My dogs have been known to spend 30-45 minutes rolling the toys with their noses and batting at it with their paws. My preference is for the Molecuball because it's a little quieter and sturdier, but it's easier to make the treats come out. The Buster Ball is more challenging but pretty loud. I've found that if I put some broken bits of dog biscuit in a Molecuball, then the food doesn't come out as easily. (Photo: Beamish shows off his treat-hunting prowess with a large Moleculeball.)

If you really want to torture, er, challenge, your dog, you can knot the food toys in an old rag before giving it to your dog. Then the dog has to figure out how to get the rag open before getting to the toy and then the food. Make sure to keep an eye on your dog, though, to make sure that she doesn't eat the rag.

Outdoors in warm weather, or in any stain-proof area, you can try giving your dog popsicles. Use any size container and fill it with water thatâs been flavored with low-sodium beef or chicken broth. Most dogs really enjoy chewing on ice and I redirected many inappropriate puppy chew fests by giving my dog a chunk of ice to chew on. In puppies the popsicle not only tastes good and gives the dog something to do, but it can also help to numb the sore gums in a teething pup

Powered by Yahoo! Answers