dog crates gold image
Emily D
We just got her from my boyfriends family a few weeks ago, so this house is new to her. She is a chihuahua mix, 2-3 years old, and is well house trained. She is so good she even comes and tells me when she needs to go outside!
But when my boyfriend and I are gone during the day (can be 3-6 hours), I come home to find little pee spots on the carpet. We have a crate but do not like to use it; her old family would put her in it while they were gone and she was miserable. We always take her outside before we leave so she can do her thing, and walk her in the evenings.
Help!
Answer
The truth of the matter is that she is not accustomed to be left alone for long period of times. You have to teach her that you will be back after a short stay outside. For example go out side of the house for about 20 minutes. Then come back in. Keep doing that until she sees that you do return some times quickly. Every time you go out stay a little longer, and return as if you just went out for some bottled water at a store. Come back again and she will began to adjust to the fact that you keep coming back. Chihuahua's are very smart and quick to learn. She will learn and fast and will adjust to you being out. When you get back each time make sure you take her out to the potty, so she knows not in the house, only outside. I know of a book that's worth its weight in gold. Chihuahua's Secrets. It's on line as an E-Book. Checkout the site it is a treasure of information for chi's. Good Luck with her. I'm sure this will help.
The truth of the matter is that she is not accustomed to be left alone for long period of times. You have to teach her that you will be back after a short stay outside. For example go out side of the house for about 20 minutes. Then come back in. Keep doing that until she sees that you do return some times quickly. Every time you go out stay a little longer, and return as if you just went out for some bottled water at a store. Come back again and she will began to adjust to the fact that you keep coming back. Chihuahua's are very smart and quick to learn. She will learn and fast and will adjust to you being out. When you get back each time make sure you take her out to the potty, so she knows not in the house, only outside. I know of a book that's worth its weight in gold. Chihuahua's Secrets. It's on line as an E-Book. Checkout the site it is a treasure of information for chi's. Good Luck with her. I'm sure this will help.
What supplies do I need to buy for a new puppy?
Fairy Jenn
I have never had a dog before, but we are planning to buy one. Can anyone provide a list of items we need to buy before introducing the puppy to our house? We have no idea, other than food, what other things we should buy.
Answer
- food & water bowls
- flat collar & leash (I recommend Lupine, they are guaranteed even if chewed: http://lupinepet.com/ )
-- id tag in case your pet gets lost
- grooming supplies, which vary based on your breed
-- dog shampoo
-- dog toothbrush
-- dog toothpaste
-- toenail clippers
-- bristle brush or slicker brush
-- comb (optional)
- toys
-- kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/
-- a squeaker toy
-- a chew toy
-- a cuddle toy
-- a tug toy
- treats
- crate
- bed
- pet stain cleaner for accidents in the house during housebreaking
- bitter apple spray to deter chewing (note: only about 50% of dogs actually respond to bitter apple spray. many of them actually LIKE the taste of it. in that case, use pepper instead.)
- quality pet food (see below)
======================
On choosing a dog food:
Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. (Or in your case, the puppy food counterpart of the brand you choose). A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.
Here is an article about byproducts:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd
And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients
---
Some GOOD foods are :
* Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
* Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
* Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
* Timberwolf - http://timberwolforganics.com/
* Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/orijen/
* Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/
* Chicken Soup brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
* Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
* Innova EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp
Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
(I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)
---
Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, Purina, etc.)
Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)
Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.
---
When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
25% food A, 75% food B
50% food A, 50% food B
75% food A, 25% food B
100% food A
- food & water bowls
- flat collar & leash (I recommend Lupine, they are guaranteed even if chewed: http://lupinepet.com/ )
-- id tag in case your pet gets lost
- grooming supplies, which vary based on your breed
-- dog shampoo
-- dog toothbrush
-- dog toothpaste
-- toenail clippers
-- bristle brush or slicker brush
-- comb (optional)
- toys
-- kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/
-- a squeaker toy
-- a chew toy
-- a cuddle toy
-- a tug toy
- treats
- crate
- bed
- pet stain cleaner for accidents in the house during housebreaking
- bitter apple spray to deter chewing (note: only about 50% of dogs actually respond to bitter apple spray. many of them actually LIKE the taste of it. in that case, use pepper instead.)
- quality pet food (see below)
======================
On choosing a dog food:
Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. (Or in your case, the puppy food counterpart of the brand you choose). A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.
Here is an article about byproducts:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd
And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients
---
Some GOOD foods are :
* Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
* Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
* Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
* Timberwolf - http://timberwolforganics.com/
* Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/orijen/
* Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/
* Chicken Soup brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
* Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
* Innova EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp
Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
(I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)
---
Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, Purina, etc.)
Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)
Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.
---
When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
25% food A, 75% food B
50% food A, 50% food B
75% food A, 25% food B
100% food A
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Title Post: Why is my dog peeing in the house while im gone?
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Rating: 100% based on 9998 ratings. 5 user reviews.
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Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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