LINDA G
HE IS A FIVE MTH OLD WEIMARANER PUP AND IS SPOILED ROTTEN AND GETS MORE THAN ENOUGH ATTENTION. WE GO ON LONG WALKS AND PLAY ALOTS THE PROBLEM IS WHEN HE GETS MAD HE TRIES TO BITE ME OR MY HUSBAND . I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING . IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING WE CAN TRY PLEASE TELL US
Answer
Some common reasons why dogs and puppies chew are; boredom, teething, enjoyment (its fun to tear stuff up), or an inadequate or improper diet. Remember that dogs are intelligent. They are inquisitive, especially during their puppy phase.
The key is to direct the majority of your efforts toward teaching the dog to chew on appropriate items and then reward him accordingly. Dogs do not have an inherent sense of what a chew-toy is, nor, can they differentiate between a chew-toy and a family heirloom. Therefore, the owner must teach the dog the difference.
The chew toys selected should not resemble other household items. For example, Nylabones, Gumabones, and Kongs, do not resemble valuables in most homes. However, rawhide is a leather product, similar to leather shoes or gloves. Buddha ropes are similar to the tasseled ends of rugs. Fuzzy plush toys are similar to carpeting and stuffed animals or throw pillows. Rubber or plastic squeaky toys are similar to children's toys. Use a combination of food baiting, praise, petting and play to encourage the dog to pick up and chew on the correct toys. The chew toys need to become the major source of interaction between the dog and all the family members.
To effectively manage a dog being treating for inappropriate chewing, you must teach the owner to set up an environment in which the dog has no chance of making poor chewing choices. The dog or puppy must be prevented from chewing on inappropriate objects at all times, whether you are around or not. Crates for inside dogs and dog runs for outside dogs provide areas where it is impossible for a dog to chew on inappropriate objects.
Another way to set the dog up to succeed is to make inappropriate items less attractive or tasty by treating the items with an anti-chewing deterrent. The anti-chewing deterrent must be applied without letting the dog see you do it and prior to the dog having access to the item. Bitter Apple spray is a popular anti-chewing deterrent and is quite distasteful to most dogs. Bitter Apple is an alcohol-based repellent and must be re-applied at least once every 24 hours to assure its effectiveness. Some anti-chewing deterrents are not alcohol-based (i.e. water based) and will last longer and have a different set of instructions for their use. Please make sure to read the product directions thoroughly before using for the optimum effectiveness.
A proper diet is another important component in managing inappropriate chewing. You might be asking yourself, how is diet a factor in dealing with chewing? Well, dogs that are not receiving proper nutrition, in other words, a puppy that has been put on adult dog food or a dog that is being fed a diet that has insufficient nutrients might look for what is missing in his diet by chewing on inappropriate objects. Also, a dog that is being fed a strictly soft food diet may not be getting enough hard chewing activity during mealtimes and may resort to chewing on inappropriate objects to stimulate healthy teeth and gums.
If you see your dog chewing on something inappropriate, it is best to just walk away, or better yet, run away from the dog. More often than not, this will intrigue the dog and cause the dog to drop the object and run after you, consequently forgetting all about what they were chewing on. When the dog is close enough, trade him for an appropriate toy. This technique is extremely effective if you have worked, even a little, on fixating the dog on this toy. Once the item has been replaced with an appropriate chew toy you should then take the inappropriate item out of the dog's sight and out of the dog's way. This should discourage the dog from finding the object again to chew on.
Hope this helps.
Some common reasons why dogs and puppies chew are; boredom, teething, enjoyment (its fun to tear stuff up), or an inadequate or improper diet. Remember that dogs are intelligent. They are inquisitive, especially during their puppy phase.
The key is to direct the majority of your efforts toward teaching the dog to chew on appropriate items and then reward him accordingly. Dogs do not have an inherent sense of what a chew-toy is, nor, can they differentiate between a chew-toy and a family heirloom. Therefore, the owner must teach the dog the difference.
The chew toys selected should not resemble other household items. For example, Nylabones, Gumabones, and Kongs, do not resemble valuables in most homes. However, rawhide is a leather product, similar to leather shoes or gloves. Buddha ropes are similar to the tasseled ends of rugs. Fuzzy plush toys are similar to carpeting and stuffed animals or throw pillows. Rubber or plastic squeaky toys are similar to children's toys. Use a combination of food baiting, praise, petting and play to encourage the dog to pick up and chew on the correct toys. The chew toys need to become the major source of interaction between the dog and all the family members.
To effectively manage a dog being treating for inappropriate chewing, you must teach the owner to set up an environment in which the dog has no chance of making poor chewing choices. The dog or puppy must be prevented from chewing on inappropriate objects at all times, whether you are around or not. Crates for inside dogs and dog runs for outside dogs provide areas where it is impossible for a dog to chew on inappropriate objects.
Another way to set the dog up to succeed is to make inappropriate items less attractive or tasty by treating the items with an anti-chewing deterrent. The anti-chewing deterrent must be applied without letting the dog see you do it and prior to the dog having access to the item. Bitter Apple spray is a popular anti-chewing deterrent and is quite distasteful to most dogs. Bitter Apple is an alcohol-based repellent and must be re-applied at least once every 24 hours to assure its effectiveness. Some anti-chewing deterrents are not alcohol-based (i.e. water based) and will last longer and have a different set of instructions for their use. Please make sure to read the product directions thoroughly before using for the optimum effectiveness.
A proper diet is another important component in managing inappropriate chewing. You might be asking yourself, how is diet a factor in dealing with chewing? Well, dogs that are not receiving proper nutrition, in other words, a puppy that has been put on adult dog food or a dog that is being fed a diet that has insufficient nutrients might look for what is missing in his diet by chewing on inappropriate objects. Also, a dog that is being fed a strictly soft food diet may not be getting enough hard chewing activity during mealtimes and may resort to chewing on inappropriate objects to stimulate healthy teeth and gums.
If you see your dog chewing on something inappropriate, it is best to just walk away, or better yet, run away from the dog. More often than not, this will intrigue the dog and cause the dog to drop the object and run after you, consequently forgetting all about what they were chewing on. When the dog is close enough, trade him for an appropriate toy. This technique is extremely effective if you have worked, even a little, on fixating the dog on this toy. Once the item has been replaced with an appropriate chew toy you should then take the inappropriate item out of the dog's sight and out of the dog's way. This should discourage the dog from finding the object again to chew on.
Hope this helps.
Potty training my dog?
Meathead
I have a 9 month old Lhasa Apso. When my mom takes him out on a leash to take him to go potty he will go for her, but if i take him out, normally he will not go for me. We have a schedule and everything. That is not my biggest problem. My problem is that he is still having accidents in the house. We punish him if he has an accident, but how do i prevent these. I understand that all puppies have accidents, but how make my puppy have fewer. Please help.
My dog can just go out side and then come in and 5 min later he pees in the house
Answer
My dog, Andy, saves his poop for my husband, some dogs are just funny. Your problem is that you are punishing him. When you punish a puppy for going potty, you confuse them. The thing you want them to do becomes the thing they won't do. You should be watching him, so there is no way a puppy can have an accident, because you are supposed to be watching them. You might want to go to the vet if you think there is something medical, but I think you need to shake it off and get back in the potty training game. Here are some tips, use what helps and leave the rest.
I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.
REVISIONS:
*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. While personally, the crate traumatizes me, (it looks like a doggie jail), my puppies do better in the crate. They like it, I guess for the den like feeling, but I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. It is a safe secure place for them. However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, child gates......whatever works for you.
*Outside, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them. Although I use them to give them pills too. I used different treats for different things. We use one bone at bedtime to let the dogs know it is time to go to bed. We use a big rawhide for when we go on long trips, so they have a bone to amuse them, and they will be expected to hold their potty. When they get the rawhide, they will not eat their food and water, until we get home from our trip. (dogs are funny) Do what works best for you.
*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesnât sneak off, or for strange places.
*Yelling. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
*Sometimes it seems like you take your puppy out 5 million times a day. You can sit on a bench, or folding chair, or a 5 gallon bucket turned upside down to stay in the shade. I use an umbrella for shade too. You can always tape your favorite tv shows. In the winter I microwave a gel pack heating pad, (sold at walmart in the pharmacy, made by Kaz, (I think.) I put the heating pad under my jacket so I won't freeze to death. In the summer, I freeze bottles of water, so we can grab one real fast on our way out the door. I have a mini back pack by the door I can just grab with doggie treats, a flash light, a rubber band for my hair when the wind is bad, etc. Do what works for you.
*Time lines. Keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, so while your last 2 dogs may have trained faster, this puppy might take longer. Training is all about routines, and repeating yourself. It is about rewarding good behaviors, and correcting bad ones. If you have a setback, shake it off, and keep going. Good luck.
Source: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!
My dog, Andy, saves his poop for my husband, some dogs are just funny. Your problem is that you are punishing him. When you punish a puppy for going potty, you confuse them. The thing you want them to do becomes the thing they won't do. You should be watching him, so there is no way a puppy can have an accident, because you are supposed to be watching them. You might want to go to the vet if you think there is something medical, but I think you need to shake it off and get back in the potty training game. Here are some tips, use what helps and leave the rest.
I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident make a disgust sound like âtsstâ and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they donât know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you donât want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.
REVISIONS:
*I use a crate to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. While personally, the crate traumatizes me, (it looks like a doggie jail), my puppies do better in the crate. They like it, I guess for the den like feeling, but I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. It is a safe secure place for them. However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, child gates......whatever works for you.
*Outside, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
*Bedrooms, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
*Treats. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them. Although I use them to give them pills too. I used different treats for different things. We use one bone at bedtime to let the dogs know it is time to go to bed. We use a big rawhide for when we go on long trips, so they have a bone to amuse them, and they will be expected to hold their potty. When they get the rawhide, they will not eat their food and water, until we get home from our trip. (dogs are funny) Do what works best for you.
*Some puppies will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying âgo finishâ until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesnât sneak off, or for strange places.
*Yelling. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
*Sometimes it seems like you take your puppy out 5 million times a day. You can sit on a bench, or folding chair, or a 5 gallon bucket turned upside down to stay in the shade. I use an umbrella for shade too. You can always tape your favorite tv shows. In the winter I microwave a gel pack heating pad, (sold at walmart in the pharmacy, made by Kaz, (I think.) I put the heating pad under my jacket so I won't freeze to death. In the summer, I freeze bottles of water, so we can grab one real fast on our way out the door. I have a mini back pack by the door I can just grab with doggie treats, a flash light, a rubber band for my hair when the wind is bad, etc. Do what works for you.
*Time lines. Keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, so while your last 2 dogs may have trained faster, this puppy might take longer. Training is all about routines, and repeating yourself. It is about rewarding good behaviors, and correcting bad ones. If you have a setback, shake it off, and keep going. Good luck.
Source: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!
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Title Post: PLEASE HELP! my dog bites and chews furniture?
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