dog crates chicago image
Trish K
I just adopted Bodhi, a pit bull and beagle mix from a co-worker. His life story is already hectic and he is only 9 months old. He was a puppy at the humane society in Chicago and a man bought him as a present for his girlfriend. When that didn't work out they gave him to my co-worker for a month and now he is with me. He is currently crate trained, but I don't want him to be stuck in his crate when I am gone. He has severe separation anxiety if I leave the house and he is not in his crate, but if he is in his crate he does just fine.
How do I get him to be alright with me leaving without a crate?
Answer
Continue with his crate until he is fully trained. I start everything with housetraining;
Mark off a toilet spot for him to use, bait it with some of his poop and pee stained paper to give him the idea. For male dogs consider putting in a pee post - a short wooden fence post is ideal.
Once an hour put him on the lead and take him out. When you put the lead on, walk him to the door and say 'do you want to go out?'
When he goes, give your chosen command 'thats the spot' or 'busy', and reward him like he won you the lottery.
Eventually he will twig what you want. He won't need to go for a couple of outings, then on the next
trip will go 'ta da'- aren't I clever! and ask for his reward.
Ignore any mess anywhere else from now on - thats essential! He can't learn where NOT to go, but
he can learn where to go and on command.
This helps build confidence and a bond with him, as its an easy task he can understand and you can reward him for.
Treating a dog for separation anxiety;
Its no fun being scared, and you can re-train your dog. It's a slow process involving 3 steps; First, teach him to lie on a bed in the same room. Second; teach him to be ignored for short periods of time. Third; leave him for short periods.
Step one;
Put a bed near your feet when you relax in the evening make him lie in the bed. Settle him with a chew and give him a command to settle in bed.
Over the next few weeks gradually inch the bed away until it is at the other end of the room.
When you are in other rooms use a mat for the same purpose. Don't let him sit on your feet. Its fine if he has to be able to see you.
Step Two;
Buy a big ugly brass ornament or something similar thats chew proof. Charity shops and car boot sales are ideal for this. Keep it hidden in a handy cupboard. Now give him the command to settle and a chew. Get out the ornament and place it in front of his bed. And ignore him. Do this for 30 seconds. Don't even look at him; he is invisible. There is no dog in the room. If he gets up and moves around, ignore him.
Now put the ornament away and notice him again. Repeat frequently, for times ranging from 20 seconds to 2 minutes.
Over 2 weeks increase the length of time from 20 seconds to 5 or 10 minutes. Start to stand up and sit down, but don't leave him.
Gradually work on increasing the time and then start to walk to the door of the room.
Step 3;
Start to leave him. Put the ornament out of sight for now. Start by walking out the room when he is settled in bed then walk straight back in again. Walk to the front door and back.
Gradually build up to putting your coat on and opening the front door.
Eventually you should be able to step out the door and turn around and come straight back in without him panicking.
When you reach that point, leave the ornament out and continue the process.
When you go out totally, make sure he has had a good 40 minute walk first. Leave him with the radio on and a chewstick. Use a child safety gate to confine him to the kitchen. Don't make a big fuss when you leave, and be a bit cool when you return.
Just calmly put him on the lead and take him straight to his toilet.
Give it a few weeks and he should turn around.
Continue with his crate until he is fully trained. I start everything with housetraining;
Mark off a toilet spot for him to use, bait it with some of his poop and pee stained paper to give him the idea. For male dogs consider putting in a pee post - a short wooden fence post is ideal.
Once an hour put him on the lead and take him out. When you put the lead on, walk him to the door and say 'do you want to go out?'
When he goes, give your chosen command 'thats the spot' or 'busy', and reward him like he won you the lottery.
Eventually he will twig what you want. He won't need to go for a couple of outings, then on the next
trip will go 'ta da'- aren't I clever! and ask for his reward.
Ignore any mess anywhere else from now on - thats essential! He can't learn where NOT to go, but
he can learn where to go and on command.
This helps build confidence and a bond with him, as its an easy task he can understand and you can reward him for.
Treating a dog for separation anxiety;
Its no fun being scared, and you can re-train your dog. It's a slow process involving 3 steps; First, teach him to lie on a bed in the same room. Second; teach him to be ignored for short periods of time. Third; leave him for short periods.
Step one;
Put a bed near your feet when you relax in the evening make him lie in the bed. Settle him with a chew and give him a command to settle in bed.
Over the next few weeks gradually inch the bed away until it is at the other end of the room.
When you are in other rooms use a mat for the same purpose. Don't let him sit on your feet. Its fine if he has to be able to see you.
Step Two;
Buy a big ugly brass ornament or something similar thats chew proof. Charity shops and car boot sales are ideal for this. Keep it hidden in a handy cupboard. Now give him the command to settle and a chew. Get out the ornament and place it in front of his bed. And ignore him. Do this for 30 seconds. Don't even look at him; he is invisible. There is no dog in the room. If he gets up and moves around, ignore him.
Now put the ornament away and notice him again. Repeat frequently, for times ranging from 20 seconds to 2 minutes.
Over 2 weeks increase the length of time from 20 seconds to 5 or 10 minutes. Start to stand up and sit down, but don't leave him.
Gradually work on increasing the time and then start to walk to the door of the room.
Step 3;
Start to leave him. Put the ornament out of sight for now. Start by walking out the room when he is settled in bed then walk straight back in again. Walk to the front door and back.
Gradually build up to putting your coat on and opening the front door.
Eventually you should be able to step out the door and turn around and come straight back in without him panicking.
When you reach that point, leave the ornament out and continue the process.
When you go out totally, make sure he has had a good 40 minute walk first. Leave him with the radio on and a chewstick. Use a child safety gate to confine him to the kitchen. Don't make a big fuss when you leave, and be a bit cool when you return.
Just calmly put him on the lead and take him straight to his toilet.
Give it a few weeks and he should turn around.
What is the least expensive way/place to ship my dog and cat from Chicago to Sweden?
SummerLove
I am moving from Chicago to Sweden in August and need to either ship my animals or have them fly with me. I have a cat that is 13 pounds and a dog that weighs 67 pounds. Anyone with advice on where to look for the cheapest price would be greatly appreciated!
Answer
The cheapest way to ship your cat is to bring it as carry-on luggage on your flight, although different airlines have different weight limits/prices for this. You'll need a soft carrier that fits under the seat in front of you. When I moved my cat from the US to Sweden several years ago, it cost $75 with Lufthansa. I'm not certain what the price is now, but a quick look at their web site suggests it may be about twice that.
Dogs must travel as checked baggage or cargo, depending on the airline. It's still cheapest to have them on the same flight as you, although I've heard of it costing anywhere from $150 to $1000. You'll either need an approved crate or to rent one from the airline. Some airlines won't fly dogs as checked baggage during summer due to hot temperatures, and may require climate-controlled cargo which is a lot more expensive.
http://www.lufthansa.com/online/portal/lh/us/info_and_services/baggage?nodeid=1769643&l=en&cid=1000390
You need to find the tickets you want for yourself, then call the airline before you buy. They will ask weights, measurements (of the containers), etc and quote you a price. They'll also let you know the process for making a reservation with them.
You need to avoid any flights with a layover in the UK, as their regulations regarding live animals are even more strict than Sweden. A direct flight US to Stockholm is best, although I flew Denver to Frankfurt to Stockholm without problem.
I hope you've already started the importation procedures to bring them into Sweden, because it takes a minimum of 7 months to complete them in the US before you can bring your pets over. They need to be microchipped (international standard), treated for rabies afterwards (prior vaccinations don't count unless done recently and after being microchipped), and then blood tested (only a lab in Kansas can do the work). There is then a 6 month wait after the blood test results before you can bring the animals to Sweden. Right before the flight, there are other procedures that need to be done (like deworming). If you haven't done this yet, the only options for bringing them is to find someone in the US to keep them while waiting out the process, or put them into a long quarantine (6 months) in Sweden which is extremely expensive.
The cheapest way to ship your cat is to bring it as carry-on luggage on your flight, although different airlines have different weight limits/prices for this. You'll need a soft carrier that fits under the seat in front of you. When I moved my cat from the US to Sweden several years ago, it cost $75 with Lufthansa. I'm not certain what the price is now, but a quick look at their web site suggests it may be about twice that.
Dogs must travel as checked baggage or cargo, depending on the airline. It's still cheapest to have them on the same flight as you, although I've heard of it costing anywhere from $150 to $1000. You'll either need an approved crate or to rent one from the airline. Some airlines won't fly dogs as checked baggage during summer due to hot temperatures, and may require climate-controlled cargo which is a lot more expensive.
http://www.lufthansa.com/online/portal/lh/us/info_and_services/baggage?nodeid=1769643&l=en&cid=1000390
You need to find the tickets you want for yourself, then call the airline before you buy. They will ask weights, measurements (of the containers), etc and quote you a price. They'll also let you know the process for making a reservation with them.
You need to avoid any flights with a layover in the UK, as their regulations regarding live animals are even more strict than Sweden. A direct flight US to Stockholm is best, although I flew Denver to Frankfurt to Stockholm without problem.
I hope you've already started the importation procedures to bring them into Sweden, because it takes a minimum of 7 months to complete them in the US before you can bring your pets over. They need to be microchipped (international standard), treated for rabies afterwards (prior vaccinations don't count unless done recently and after being microchipped), and then blood tested (only a lab in Kansas can do the work). There is then a 6 month wait after the blood test results before you can bring the animals to Sweden. Right before the flight, there are other procedures that need to be done (like deworming). If you haven't done this yet, the only options for bringing them is to find someone in the US to keep them while waiting out the process, or put them into a long quarantine (6 months) in Sweden which is extremely expensive.
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Title Post: How do I get my dog to not have separation anxiety when hes at home without his crate?
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