dog crates 36 image
Katee
He is 1 year old and around 70 lbs tops. I am flying home and I want to order a crate from online but Im not sure if I should get a Large or XL??
Thank you!
Answer
I have a large Pet Porter, 36''. I think it would be just right for your dog. Unfortunately, activists have fussed to where the airlines require crates big enough for the dog's head to clear the top when it is standing. I measured and my crate is 24''-25'' floor to ceiling, perhaps not high enough for your Husky.
Remember the only person whose opinion counts is the airline employee whose name you have written down.
I have a large Pet Porter, 36''. I think it would be just right for your dog. Unfortunately, activists have fussed to where the airlines require crates big enough for the dog's head to clear the top when it is standing. I measured and my crate is 24''-25'' floor to ceiling, perhaps not high enough for your Husky.
Remember the only person whose opinion counts is the airline employee whose name you have written down.
Has anyone ever captured and tamed a feral kitten?
Betsy S
I have one in a large dog crate, with food water and litter. The kitten is 5 or 6 weeks old. It has been 2 days and I still can't touch it, it spits and growls. Does anyone know how long it takes for the kitten to learn to trust me? Thanks
Answer
If it is really a feral kitten, and not a stray, it could take months to tame it. Two days is not even a drop in the bucket, as the saying goes.
We have tamed six feral kittens which were between 6 and 12 weeks of age.
It is usually a difficult and lengthy process.
We just finished taming a 7 or 8 week old kitten and it took over 8 months to get her to the stage that we felt we could give her the run of the house and even now, about three weeks after we let her loose in the house, we cannot always handle her and she often runs away from us. She will come onto the bed with us because the bedroom is where we had her caged and she got used to us being in there, on the bed, and she would come up and we could handle and play with her and she would sleep on the bed.
It will be a long time before you get your kitten to the point that you can let it loose in the bedroom.
Keep the cage (I've always wondered why people call them crates) on a table in your bedroom that is high enough so the kitten can see you on the bed and won't have a view that consists of only legs and feet - as would be the case if the cage were on the floor.
How big is your cage? It should be at least 24" x 36" and 24" high. If it is smaller than that, get a bigger one.
Add, or have someone add, a shelf in the cage to provide a second level of area for the kitten. The kitten is going to be in the cage for quite awhile and you need to provide as much space as possible.
Make the shelf about 2/3 as long as the cage. Make the width of the shelf about 1" less than the inside width of the cage. Make it out of plywood that is at least 3/8" thick or a similar material that is as strong as 3/8" plywood.
Support it with two pieces of lumber cut down so that they will slide through the sides of the cage and are about 2" longer than the width of the cage. If you don't have a table saw to cut this sort of lumber, get some long wooden dowels and use them. Dowels usually come in 2' and 3' lengths, get the 3' lengths if your cage is 2" or wider.
Drill holes in one end of each of the support pieces. Slide the supports through the side of the cage to support the shelf. Put one support right at the back of the cage and position the other so that it will be about 1" back from the front of the shelf. Use wire or string or cable ties through the holes in the ends of the supports to fasten them to the cage grid.
Drill holes in the corners of the plywood and use cable ties or string or wire to tie the plywood to the support pieces to keep the shelf from shifting.
That will give the kitten the space it will need.
One important thing - name the kitten and then talk to it a lot and use it name. Talk to it a lot.
First you want to work at it so that you can reach in and touch the kitten without it going ballistic on you and hissing and growling, trying to get away or trying to bite or scratch you. This may take weeks - it just depends on you and the kitten.
You might want to wear a pair of heavy work gloves but never try to force the kittten to let you touch or handle it. You can wear the gloves for protection but you should not put yourself in the position that you actually need the protection. Go slow and don't force the kitten.
The next step is to get to where you can take hold of the kitten, inside the cage, and hold on to it without it going berserk.
Once you can hold the kitten in the cage, you want to move to being able to pull the kitten out of the cage and hold it just outside the door of the cage. Don't force it and be ready for the kitten to try and get away. If it is fighting to get loose, put it back in the cage. As time goes by, you should be able to hold the kitten, just outside the cage for longer and longer.
Any time you have the cage door open, have the bedroom dor closed. You do not want to have to run down the kitten when it escapes into the house.
The next step is to let the kitten loose in the bedroom - with the door closed. However, you can't take this step until you are confident that you can get the kitten back into the cage when you are ready to go to bed. You don't want the kitten loose in the room until you can handle it enough to be able to put it back in the cage and it should spend the night in the cage and whenever you are not there with it.
The next step is to be able to allow the kitten to be loose in the room when you are not there but getting to the point of letting the kitten out of the cage at all will take quite a bit of time and effort on your part.
As I said before, this whole process can possibly take months.
I don't have a lot of room here so I'm going to end this now.
Go to our site about Simon and his diabetes and email me using the Email link on the left hand side of the web pages. The site is at http://www.sugarcatsimon.com
That URL will redirect you to the actual site at http://sugarcat_simon.home.att.net - I've registered the domain name www.sugarcatsimon.com but haven't put up a new site I'm working on yet.
http://www.sugarcatsimon.com is easier to remember than the other one :-)
Email me and I'll reply with the next few steps you need to follow.
Good luck
Bob
If it is really a feral kitten, and not a stray, it could take months to tame it. Two days is not even a drop in the bucket, as the saying goes.
We have tamed six feral kittens which were between 6 and 12 weeks of age.
It is usually a difficult and lengthy process.
We just finished taming a 7 or 8 week old kitten and it took over 8 months to get her to the stage that we felt we could give her the run of the house and even now, about three weeks after we let her loose in the house, we cannot always handle her and she often runs away from us. She will come onto the bed with us because the bedroom is where we had her caged and she got used to us being in there, on the bed, and she would come up and we could handle and play with her and she would sleep on the bed.
It will be a long time before you get your kitten to the point that you can let it loose in the bedroom.
Keep the cage (I've always wondered why people call them crates) on a table in your bedroom that is high enough so the kitten can see you on the bed and won't have a view that consists of only legs and feet - as would be the case if the cage were on the floor.
How big is your cage? It should be at least 24" x 36" and 24" high. If it is smaller than that, get a bigger one.
Add, or have someone add, a shelf in the cage to provide a second level of area for the kitten. The kitten is going to be in the cage for quite awhile and you need to provide as much space as possible.
Make the shelf about 2/3 as long as the cage. Make the width of the shelf about 1" less than the inside width of the cage. Make it out of plywood that is at least 3/8" thick or a similar material that is as strong as 3/8" plywood.
Support it with two pieces of lumber cut down so that they will slide through the sides of the cage and are about 2" longer than the width of the cage. If you don't have a table saw to cut this sort of lumber, get some long wooden dowels and use them. Dowels usually come in 2' and 3' lengths, get the 3' lengths if your cage is 2" or wider.
Drill holes in one end of each of the support pieces. Slide the supports through the side of the cage to support the shelf. Put one support right at the back of the cage and position the other so that it will be about 1" back from the front of the shelf. Use wire or string or cable ties through the holes in the ends of the supports to fasten them to the cage grid.
Drill holes in the corners of the plywood and use cable ties or string or wire to tie the plywood to the support pieces to keep the shelf from shifting.
That will give the kitten the space it will need.
One important thing - name the kitten and then talk to it a lot and use it name. Talk to it a lot.
First you want to work at it so that you can reach in and touch the kitten without it going ballistic on you and hissing and growling, trying to get away or trying to bite or scratch you. This may take weeks - it just depends on you and the kitten.
You might want to wear a pair of heavy work gloves but never try to force the kittten to let you touch or handle it. You can wear the gloves for protection but you should not put yourself in the position that you actually need the protection. Go slow and don't force the kitten.
The next step is to get to where you can take hold of the kitten, inside the cage, and hold on to it without it going berserk.
Once you can hold the kitten in the cage, you want to move to being able to pull the kitten out of the cage and hold it just outside the door of the cage. Don't force it and be ready for the kitten to try and get away. If it is fighting to get loose, put it back in the cage. As time goes by, you should be able to hold the kitten, just outside the cage for longer and longer.
Any time you have the cage door open, have the bedroom dor closed. You do not want to have to run down the kitten when it escapes into the house.
The next step is to let the kitten loose in the bedroom - with the door closed. However, you can't take this step until you are confident that you can get the kitten back into the cage when you are ready to go to bed. You don't want the kitten loose in the room until you can handle it enough to be able to put it back in the cage and it should spend the night in the cage and whenever you are not there with it.
The next step is to be able to allow the kitten to be loose in the room when you are not there but getting to the point of letting the kitten out of the cage at all will take quite a bit of time and effort on your part.
As I said before, this whole process can possibly take months.
I don't have a lot of room here so I'm going to end this now.
Go to our site about Simon and his diabetes and email me using the Email link on the left hand side of the web pages. The site is at http://www.sugarcatsimon.com
That URL will redirect you to the actual site at http://sugarcat_simon.home.att.net - I've registered the domain name www.sugarcatsimon.com but haven't put up a new site I'm working on yet.
http://www.sugarcatsimon.com is easier to remember than the other one :-)
Email me and I'll reply with the next few steps you need to follow.
Good luck
Bob
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Title Post: What size airline approved crate should I use for my 1 year old male Siberian Husky?
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