dog crate xl size image
Julianna
I'm a first time rabbit owner who has some questions! I am very excited about getting my new pet rabbit, and I've been reading about them and their needs for the past few days.
However, I still have some questions.
1. Is it absolutely MANDATORY to get your rabbit spayed or neutered?
2. Are they happy alone sometimes or do they NEED companions?
3. What sort of fruits/vegetables should I avoid feeding them?
4. What kind of bedding(if any at all) should I buy for my rabbit?
5. How big does their cage need to be? Is it better if I get a two story cage or a regular one?
6. How do I know whether my rabbit is healthy or unhealthy, and what are some ways I could tell if my rabbit got sick?
Thank you!
Answer
1. Getting them spayed or neutered is a good idea. Females do have a high risk of cancer and you really won't know until it is far advanced. Both males and female can have hormonal behaviours such as aggressiveness, humping, spraying, and not using the litter box. Some of these behaviours can really impact your ability to do much with your rabbit and people do give up their rabbit due to hormonal behaviours. A spayed or neutered rabbit does generally make a better house pet. I would get a female done just for the health benefits, but males are more due to behaviour. If you want to bond, both rabbits should be spayed or neutered to prevent breeding and so they can live together peacefully.
2. Rabbits can be fine living alone. Some do like to have a companion, but some actually prefer to be alone. Bonding can take time, you can't just put them together and hope for the best. If you did get a second rabbit, you would need to be prepared for them to not get along.
3. Leafy green veggies are best. Fruit is high in sugar as are carrot, so are best given in small amount. Veggies high in calcium should be limited as they can contribute to bladder stones, sludge and other issues. There are a variety of lists of safe and unsafe foods to feed.
4. Rabbits can be litter trained, so do not need litter in the whole cage. You can use fleece or a towel to provide something soft and give traction. In the litter box, wood or paper pellets are good to use and safe. Wood pellets are quite cheap and very effective.
5. The bigger the cage the better. Most sold at pet stores are too small for an adult rabbit. Look into wire dog crates (XL size), x-pens, or NIC / C&C cages. These all tend to be cheaper than a cage, bigger and more suitable for a rabbit. You can add a level, but still need a good floor space.
6. One major sign that a rabbit is not feeling well is they are not eating. Not peeing or pooping does follow the not eating. This is when they start going into GI stasis and can be deadly quite quickly. Tooth problems are common as well, look for drooling and not wanting to eat some foods, the front teeth are easy to see if they are overgrown. You will get to know the rabbit and can watch for things that are different. If you think there might be a problem, call the vet. My friend's rabbit recently had surgery for a big bladder stone and the only obvious symptom was straining to pee and very frequent tail lifting.
1. Getting them spayed or neutered is a good idea. Females do have a high risk of cancer and you really won't know until it is far advanced. Both males and female can have hormonal behaviours such as aggressiveness, humping, spraying, and not using the litter box. Some of these behaviours can really impact your ability to do much with your rabbit and people do give up their rabbit due to hormonal behaviours. A spayed or neutered rabbit does generally make a better house pet. I would get a female done just for the health benefits, but males are more due to behaviour. If you want to bond, both rabbits should be spayed or neutered to prevent breeding and so they can live together peacefully.
2. Rabbits can be fine living alone. Some do like to have a companion, but some actually prefer to be alone. Bonding can take time, you can't just put them together and hope for the best. If you did get a second rabbit, you would need to be prepared for them to not get along.
3. Leafy green veggies are best. Fruit is high in sugar as are carrot, so are best given in small amount. Veggies high in calcium should be limited as they can contribute to bladder stones, sludge and other issues. There are a variety of lists of safe and unsafe foods to feed.
4. Rabbits can be litter trained, so do not need litter in the whole cage. You can use fleece or a towel to provide something soft and give traction. In the litter box, wood or paper pellets are good to use and safe. Wood pellets are quite cheap and very effective.
5. The bigger the cage the better. Most sold at pet stores are too small for an adult rabbit. Look into wire dog crates (XL size), x-pens, or NIC / C&C cages. These all tend to be cheaper than a cage, bigger and more suitable for a rabbit. You can add a level, but still need a good floor space.
6. One major sign that a rabbit is not feeling well is they are not eating. Not peeing or pooping does follow the not eating. This is when they start going into GI stasis and can be deadly quite quickly. Tooth problems are common as well, look for drooling and not wanting to eat some foods, the front teeth are easy to see if they are overgrown. You will get to know the rabbit and can watch for things that are different. If you think there might be a problem, call the vet. My friend's rabbit recently had surgery for a big bladder stone and the only obvious symptom was straining to pee and very frequent tail lifting.
Do I need a large puppy crate for my lab puppy?
Kitttay
I already have a coated wire crate with a plastic bottom tray that is only big enough for a regular pillow to fit in and tall enough for the puppy to sit up. My idea was to just use it as a "den" and safe cozy bed for the puppy and to calm him down and put blankets over at night.
but my boyfriend says I need a crate big enough for a water bowl and a bed and a puppy pad for when we go out, but I was just going to use a empty room with the door open and a baby gate up for the puppy when i go out (obv with his water bowl toys puppy pad etc. and no dangerous things around like wires or objects) the room is a very small bedroom that only fits a queen size bed with no room around it.
Do I NEED a XL crate or can I use the empty room and the crate for nightime?
Answer
For a new puppy you just want it in the crate. No pillows blankets or puppy pad. Puppies do not soil in their own dens. They need to be taken out at regular intervals. The crate should be just big enough for the dog so he/she learns not to soil in there. ( the puppy will have accidents at first its a given) that is why you dont put blankets or bedding in there until they can hold it all night long. When you go out for a couple hours the puppy should go in his or her crate but never for longer than 2-3hours a day. So, here is why your bf is wrong. On the other hand a whole room is also too big for the puppy to be left alone....they can be destructive if left alone for long periods of time. What I suggest and have read extensively on is the use of an exercise pen for use when you are gone for long periods of time, if you start to notice destructive behavior. You can place the crate onside the exercise pen along with toys and a water bowl. They also make models that attach to the sides of the exercise pen. It is very important in housetraining and prevention of separation anxiety that you research every possible solution for your new puppy. The puppy pad can be placed inside the exercise pen at the opposite side from where they sleep. That's where the dog naturally will eliminate. Its okay to feed your dog in the crate especially during hectic morning schedules but they should be taken out before and after a feeding. Eating triggers elimination in young dogs. Using the crate only as its den is the right idea. You want the dog to feel safe and secure which is what the crate is intended for. You are right using confinement over crating. Its healthier and the dog shouldn't be crated for longer than 2-3 hours except at night.
For a new puppy you just want it in the crate. No pillows blankets or puppy pad. Puppies do not soil in their own dens. They need to be taken out at regular intervals. The crate should be just big enough for the dog so he/she learns not to soil in there. ( the puppy will have accidents at first its a given) that is why you dont put blankets or bedding in there until they can hold it all night long. When you go out for a couple hours the puppy should go in his or her crate but never for longer than 2-3hours a day. So, here is why your bf is wrong. On the other hand a whole room is also too big for the puppy to be left alone....they can be destructive if left alone for long periods of time. What I suggest and have read extensively on is the use of an exercise pen for use when you are gone for long periods of time, if you start to notice destructive behavior. You can place the crate onside the exercise pen along with toys and a water bowl. They also make models that attach to the sides of the exercise pen. It is very important in housetraining and prevention of separation anxiety that you research every possible solution for your new puppy. The puppy pad can be placed inside the exercise pen at the opposite side from where they sleep. That's where the dog naturally will eliminate. Its okay to feed your dog in the crate especially during hectic morning schedules but they should be taken out before and after a feeding. Eating triggers elimination in young dogs. Using the crate only as its den is the right idea. You want the dog to feel safe and secure which is what the crate is intended for. You are right using confinement over crating. Its healthier and the dog shouldn't be crated for longer than 2-3 hours except at night.
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Title Post: Tips for a first time rabbit owner, please?
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