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Tkdman
I am thinking about getting a siberian husky ive never owned a dog before. I want to now what ill need todo regarding vaccinations and other medical stuff. how much will that cost. and i want to know how much will i be spending on food and other things each month for the husky.
Answer
Buying my Siberian cost me about $750, but that is because he had papers so it cost more.
When I first got him, his puppy exam at the vet was $46.00.
His Tracheobronchitis shot was $18.00
His DA2PP puppy initial was also $18.00
His first lyme disease was $27.00.
It turned out he had worms so the fecal lab analysis was $44.00 and the meds for getting rid of his worms were $18.00.
His puppy heart-worm pill was $5.50 and his <22 lb frontline plus was $16.00
I went to a different vet after that and his vaccinations became the DHLPP vaccination boosters but I have lost the paperwork with how much those cost, they were not very much though if I remember correctly.
His registration papers cost about $25 for simple registration (there are many options)
He is 9 months old now and I pay about $7 a month for his <50 lbs interceptor heart-worm (he is about 48 to 50 lbs now).
I pay $20 every 3 months for hartz tick and flea drops (frontline works better but hartz is a lot cheaper).
He was neutered when he first turned 8 months, the bill breakdown was like this: Pain pills $8.00, Catheterization $48.00, IV fluids $16, Analgesic injection $13, Anesthesia for first hour $69, Patient monitoring: $16, actual neuter surgery $105, elizabethan collar (to not lick wound) $12.
I also got optional blood-work on him before surgery that was $46 and microchip placement that was $53. My total bill was about 385 dollars.
I feed him Nutro natural choice large breed puppy food. One 35 pound bag costs $50 at petco and lasts me about 2 months or so. If buying from petco, they track how many bags you buy, and your 10th is free, if you buy from a local store, you can sign up online and Nutro will mail you a slip that you give to your local pet store so they can track your dog food and when you get 10 bags they can mail it in for reimbursement for the 10th bag, so either way you can get the 10th for free.
He tears through toys like no other, but two toys have lasted, one is an orca bone offered by petstages, available at petco, target, etc. The other is a tuff tuff bone, the only fabric toy that he has not torn up, I got mine from petco, the walmart and target similar ones get destroyed within the day.
My husky is crate trained. When I got him, I used a $60 large crate that I bought from walmart. Save yourself the trouble and buy a more expensive expanding crate that can go up to extra large. Even though he is only 50 lbs, he can not even sit up straight in the large crate, I had to get an extra large one for him, luckily my friend had one they didn't need so I didn't have to pay any more money.
Depending on your dogs temperament, you may have to think about puppy classes. I've heard the ones at petco and petsmart are around $100 for the basic class. My Siberian was my first dog I've had to take care of all on my own, although I grew up with dogs, it is different when all the work is on you. My Siberian is stubborn and very smart, he learns different and new ways to be annoying all the time. I have not had the need for professional training though by being clear about what I expect from him and consistent with praise and punishment. I socialize him at the dog park every two weeks or so which is free for the park I go to, but some parks do charge 5-10 dollars a day, usually indoor or well monitored parks.
You need to make sure you can exercise your husky properly. I take my dog on 3-4 1 to 1.5 hour walks a week and on the weekends depending on weather i'll take him on a 6-9 mile hike on Saturday and a 4-6 mile hike on Sunday, plus lots more fetch in the yard. He still has too much energy after all this.
You also need to be able to contain him without running away. I have a 100 foot run for my Siberian that i use when i'm out in the yard with him. I make sure his collar it tight so he can't slip away and I've had good luck with it. It is best to have a large fenced in yard for your Sibe, and many claim electric fences didn't stop their Siberians.
Buying my Siberian cost me about $750, but that is because he had papers so it cost more.
When I first got him, his puppy exam at the vet was $46.00.
His Tracheobronchitis shot was $18.00
His DA2PP puppy initial was also $18.00
His first lyme disease was $27.00.
It turned out he had worms so the fecal lab analysis was $44.00 and the meds for getting rid of his worms were $18.00.
His puppy heart-worm pill was $5.50 and his <22 lb frontline plus was $16.00
I went to a different vet after that and his vaccinations became the DHLPP vaccination boosters but I have lost the paperwork with how much those cost, they were not very much though if I remember correctly.
His registration papers cost about $25 for simple registration (there are many options)
He is 9 months old now and I pay about $7 a month for his <50 lbs interceptor heart-worm (he is about 48 to 50 lbs now).
I pay $20 every 3 months for hartz tick and flea drops (frontline works better but hartz is a lot cheaper).
He was neutered when he first turned 8 months, the bill breakdown was like this: Pain pills $8.00, Catheterization $48.00, IV fluids $16, Analgesic injection $13, Anesthesia for first hour $69, Patient monitoring: $16, actual neuter surgery $105, elizabethan collar (to not lick wound) $12.
I also got optional blood-work on him before surgery that was $46 and microchip placement that was $53. My total bill was about 385 dollars.
I feed him Nutro natural choice large breed puppy food. One 35 pound bag costs $50 at petco and lasts me about 2 months or so. If buying from petco, they track how many bags you buy, and your 10th is free, if you buy from a local store, you can sign up online and Nutro will mail you a slip that you give to your local pet store so they can track your dog food and when you get 10 bags they can mail it in for reimbursement for the 10th bag, so either way you can get the 10th for free.
He tears through toys like no other, but two toys have lasted, one is an orca bone offered by petstages, available at petco, target, etc. The other is a tuff tuff bone, the only fabric toy that he has not torn up, I got mine from petco, the walmart and target similar ones get destroyed within the day.
My husky is crate trained. When I got him, I used a $60 large crate that I bought from walmart. Save yourself the trouble and buy a more expensive expanding crate that can go up to extra large. Even though he is only 50 lbs, he can not even sit up straight in the large crate, I had to get an extra large one for him, luckily my friend had one they didn't need so I didn't have to pay any more money.
Depending on your dogs temperament, you may have to think about puppy classes. I've heard the ones at petco and petsmart are around $100 for the basic class. My Siberian was my first dog I've had to take care of all on my own, although I grew up with dogs, it is different when all the work is on you. My Siberian is stubborn and very smart, he learns different and new ways to be annoying all the time. I have not had the need for professional training though by being clear about what I expect from him and consistent with praise and punishment. I socialize him at the dog park every two weeks or so which is free for the park I go to, but some parks do charge 5-10 dollars a day, usually indoor or well monitored parks.
You need to make sure you can exercise your husky properly. I take my dog on 3-4 1 to 1.5 hour walks a week and on the weekends depending on weather i'll take him on a 6-9 mile hike on Saturday and a 4-6 mile hike on Sunday, plus lots more fetch in the yard. He still has too much energy after all this.
You also need to be able to contain him without running away. I have a 100 foot run for my Siberian that i use when i'm out in the yard with him. I make sure his collar it tight so he can't slip away and I've had good luck with it. It is best to have a large fenced in yard for your Sibe, and many claim electric fences didn't stop their Siberians.
At what age does a puppy get its shots?
Kezia
I have an 8 week German Shepherd puppy, I really want her to socialize with other dogs, but she needs her shots first, when should I give her the shots???
And if a dog has its shots, is it ok to let my puppy play with it???
My friend has a chihuahua and I want my dog to play with him, he has all of his shots, is it safe for her to play with him????
Answer
Great age to get a pup!
Bad idea about playing with other dogs.....
Vaccinations should be no further apart than 4 weeks, no closer together than 3 weeks.
⢠Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as feeding, vaccinations, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.
It takes 2 weeks before you can hope that the first shots take effect (if the passive immunity from the dam was still high, that will destroy the attenuated virus before it can train the immune system). Many vets (and their insurance cos!) are old fashioned and would rather over-vaccinate than risk being sued for under-vaccinating. If you are in an area where the govt requires rabies vaccinations, delay as long as is legal, then get the certificate for 3 years - and donate to the Rabies Research group listed in the Vaccinations section of the group above!
Another dog's shots make IT unlikely to suffer a virus attack, but don't stop its feet & coat from carrying the virus to YOUR pup & infecting her.
Check whether you are in a heartworm area - if you are, you need to put your pup on the preventative, as killing adult heartworms usually results in their corpses blocking the dog's heart valve.
If it is more than 12-13 days since Pup was dosed for roundworm, get the cheapest chemical for roundworm and dose Pup every 12-13 days until, twice in a row, there has been no sign of "broken rubber bands" in her faeces during the 48 hours after the dosing.
Your first 2 tasks are to learn Pup's timing & signals, and convince her that the world is a fun, safe place and that YOU (not other dogs, not strangers) are the centre of everything good in the universe,.
At 8 weeks, it is common for pups to, 1 minute after waking and 3 minutes after eating/drinking, start making anxious nose-down circles. You immediately CARRY Pup to the designated toilet area and wait boringly still & silent (don't let those teeth chatter!) until Pup remembers that she wanted to go toilet. As soon as she finishes, praise (include her name & the future command word) & reward (pats, rubs, or a game) before going inside.
Also learn her signal for "Wanna BITE something!"
I HOPE you have a plan for her sleeping that does NOT involve a locked crate. Pups need to exercise their fast-growing bones & muscles the whole time they're awake. Well-bred well-reared pups arrive with an instinct to get away from their nest before piddle-pooing. Catch 22: A crate small enough to invoke that instinct is too small to exercise in. An enclosure big enough to exercise in is big enough to go toilet in.
Learn that "socialisation" has NOTHING to do with playing with other dogs or people.
A more accurate term would be "familiarisation".
You have until Pup turns 13 weeks (the end of the "confident & curious" period, start of the "need security" period that should end when pup turns 17 weeks) in which to familiarise her with every movement, reflection, scent, sight, sound & texture in your environment, always introducing them from a distance that PUP considers safe. When Pup notices a "new & possibly scary thing" you just stand still and silent (NO "soothing" her) UNTIL Pup decides to either ignore it or - better - investigate it. Either way, you then praise Pup as she starts moving again, and reward her with a rub or pat if she is close
Until 2 weeks after the first shots you keep pup on YOUR property.
You then take her to areas where dogs do NOT run loose, do NOT piddle-poo-vomit, and mostly let her explore in all directions at once on the end of a long lead, calmly hauling her away from disgusting things or scared humans.
Learning to walk at Heel can wait until you are in a training club class (forget pet shop play groups) - book NOW for one that will start when Pup is 18-22 weeks old. There YOU are coached to improve your use of "the voices", posture aka body language, balance, timing, rewards vs reprimands. At the same time Pup learns to pay attention regardless of what other dogs & people are doing.
⢠To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967
Great age to get a pup!
Bad idea about playing with other dogs.....
Vaccinations should be no further apart than 4 weeks, no closer together than 3 weeks.
⢠Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as feeding, vaccinations, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.
It takes 2 weeks before you can hope that the first shots take effect (if the passive immunity from the dam was still high, that will destroy the attenuated virus before it can train the immune system). Many vets (and their insurance cos!) are old fashioned and would rather over-vaccinate than risk being sued for under-vaccinating. If you are in an area where the govt requires rabies vaccinations, delay as long as is legal, then get the certificate for 3 years - and donate to the Rabies Research group listed in the Vaccinations section of the group above!
Another dog's shots make IT unlikely to suffer a virus attack, but don't stop its feet & coat from carrying the virus to YOUR pup & infecting her.
Check whether you are in a heartworm area - if you are, you need to put your pup on the preventative, as killing adult heartworms usually results in their corpses blocking the dog's heart valve.
If it is more than 12-13 days since Pup was dosed for roundworm, get the cheapest chemical for roundworm and dose Pup every 12-13 days until, twice in a row, there has been no sign of "broken rubber bands" in her faeces during the 48 hours after the dosing.
Your first 2 tasks are to learn Pup's timing & signals, and convince her that the world is a fun, safe place and that YOU (not other dogs, not strangers) are the centre of everything good in the universe,.
At 8 weeks, it is common for pups to, 1 minute after waking and 3 minutes after eating/drinking, start making anxious nose-down circles. You immediately CARRY Pup to the designated toilet area and wait boringly still & silent (don't let those teeth chatter!) until Pup remembers that she wanted to go toilet. As soon as she finishes, praise (include her name & the future command word) & reward (pats, rubs, or a game) before going inside.
Also learn her signal for "Wanna BITE something!"
I HOPE you have a plan for her sleeping that does NOT involve a locked crate. Pups need to exercise their fast-growing bones & muscles the whole time they're awake. Well-bred well-reared pups arrive with an instinct to get away from their nest before piddle-pooing. Catch 22: A crate small enough to invoke that instinct is too small to exercise in. An enclosure big enough to exercise in is big enough to go toilet in.
Learn that "socialisation" has NOTHING to do with playing with other dogs or people.
A more accurate term would be "familiarisation".
You have until Pup turns 13 weeks (the end of the "confident & curious" period, start of the "need security" period that should end when pup turns 17 weeks) in which to familiarise her with every movement, reflection, scent, sight, sound & texture in your environment, always introducing them from a distance that PUP considers safe. When Pup notices a "new & possibly scary thing" you just stand still and silent (NO "soothing" her) UNTIL Pup decides to either ignore it or - better - investigate it. Either way, you then praise Pup as she starts moving again, and reward her with a rub or pat if she is close
Until 2 weeks after the first shots you keep pup on YOUR property.
You then take her to areas where dogs do NOT run loose, do NOT piddle-poo-vomit, and mostly let her explore in all directions at once on the end of a long lead, calmly hauling her away from disgusting things or scared humans.
Learning to walk at Heel can wait until you are in a training club class (forget pet shop play groups) - book NOW for one that will start when Pup is 18-22 weeks old. There YOU are coached to improve your use of "the voices", posture aka body language, balance, timing, rewards vs reprimands. At the same time Pup learns to pay attention regardless of what other dogs & people are doing.
⢠To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967
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Title Post: What would i have to do to raise a siberian husky?
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