dog crate 52 image
VerdeOjos
Gross, sorry. But one of my puppies is randomly throwing up, like once or twice a week (we have taken them to the vet and he says they probably just havee a tummy ache, are eating too fast, playing too hard, etc.) But the problem is they have more freedom cause they are older and I don't always know when or where they throw up until hours, or even days later. What is the best way to clean it up? I have tried the stuff that I used when I was house training them to spray on it, but it doesn't get the stain out... I am getting my carpets cleaned because we are all done with house training, but I can't be sure that throwing up is never gonna happen! Thank you !!!
Answer
I share your pain, sort of. I have a cat who does the same thing- vomits without warning and for no consistant reason. I called the vet and told them my cat was bulemic. (ha) She was placed on anti-nausea pills which helped tremendously, but was a management tool as well as a short term fix. A week after she stopped taking them, she began the vomiting again. (Maybe I shouldn't have asked her why she couldn't be more like her step-sister (not really)). I have no idea what is causing it, neither does the vet yet.
I *do* know that it is not uncommon for some dogs to be pukers after playing or after just eating. If s/he is eating too fast because s/he doesn't want the other dog(s) to eat her food, let him/her eat in a separate area so the other dogs cannot eat his/her food (or vice versa if s/he is eating fast in order to eat someone else's food). If you just need him/her to slow down during chow time, scatter the food- some in the bowl, some around the bowl on the floor. It helped my dogs to slow down when they had to play "52 kibble pick up".
Back to your main problem- cleaning the dog vomit. I would start with Nature's Miracle. It comes in a white plastic bottle with red lettering and red lid. (Find it at Petsmart, Petco, specialty pet supply stores, etc, and online at PetEdge and & Drs. Foster & Smith to name a few. You won't find it at Walmart, Target, or grocery store unless you have a really cool grocery like Bare Essentials or some other "granola" type market). I have used that for housesoiling problems and for vomit. It works great for me. Blot the "blat" up with a wet towel first. Then spray Nature's Miracle on it and follow the directions on the bottle. It has always worked better than Simple Solution (which is now called something else) for me. I have not had to clean carpets of the disgustingly florescant yellow "green grass puke" yet, so I can't say how it works on that. It certainly works for dog food vomit and empty stomach vomit.
Have you considered crating your dogs separately while you are away? (I realize they can puke the second you walk out of the room while you are home, and I am not suggesting that you imprison them.)
If I knew what kind of food you were feeding them, I might be able to offer more advice. I am sure that since you have gone to the vet, you have already explored that. Glad you have taken him/her to the vet. I am assuming you have a good vet that you trust. That's important. I hope your dog gets better and is not chronically bulemic like my cat. Peer pressure stinks, I guess. ;-)
I share your pain, sort of. I have a cat who does the same thing- vomits without warning and for no consistant reason. I called the vet and told them my cat was bulemic. (ha) She was placed on anti-nausea pills which helped tremendously, but was a management tool as well as a short term fix. A week after she stopped taking them, she began the vomiting again. (Maybe I shouldn't have asked her why she couldn't be more like her step-sister (not really)). I have no idea what is causing it, neither does the vet yet.
I *do* know that it is not uncommon for some dogs to be pukers after playing or after just eating. If s/he is eating too fast because s/he doesn't want the other dog(s) to eat her food, let him/her eat in a separate area so the other dogs cannot eat his/her food (or vice versa if s/he is eating fast in order to eat someone else's food). If you just need him/her to slow down during chow time, scatter the food- some in the bowl, some around the bowl on the floor. It helped my dogs to slow down when they had to play "52 kibble pick up".
Back to your main problem- cleaning the dog vomit. I would start with Nature's Miracle. It comes in a white plastic bottle with red lettering and red lid. (Find it at Petsmart, Petco, specialty pet supply stores, etc, and online at PetEdge and & Drs. Foster & Smith to name a few. You won't find it at Walmart, Target, or grocery store unless you have a really cool grocery like Bare Essentials or some other "granola" type market). I have used that for housesoiling problems and for vomit. It works great for me. Blot the "blat" up with a wet towel first. Then spray Nature's Miracle on it and follow the directions on the bottle. It has always worked better than Simple Solution (which is now called something else) for me. I have not had to clean carpets of the disgustingly florescant yellow "green grass puke" yet, so I can't say how it works on that. It certainly works for dog food vomit and empty stomach vomit.
Have you considered crating your dogs separately while you are away? (I realize they can puke the second you walk out of the room while you are home, and I am not suggesting that you imprison them.)
If I knew what kind of food you were feeding them, I might be able to offer more advice. I am sure that since you have gone to the vet, you have already explored that. Glad you have taken him/her to the vet. I am assuming you have a good vet that you trust. That's important. I hope your dog gets better and is not chronically bulemic like my cat. Peer pressure stinks, I guess. ;-)
How much does it cost monthly to keep a german shepherd dog?
Navid
Answer
As Rolls Royce salesmen are reputed to say:
"If you have to ask the cost, you can't afford it."
And as with cars. the first and last year are usually the most expensive!
Including fence-&-gate repairs to make it unlikely that she can escape, purchase price, petrol to collect her from 4½ hours away, feeding, vaccinations, micro chipping & licensing with the city council, replacing phone & power cables she'd chomped through, my pup cost me $2662.58 from 20 July to 28 December, which would average $532.52 a month - or $304.32 without the fencing & purchase price. I have not yet replaced the leash she pulled out of its bag and chomped into about 7 bits. Nor have I fixed or replaced the bagless vacuum-cleaner whose internal air passages got blocked when I tried to vacuum up the shreds of chomped "fire-wood" she left on the carpet in the hallway. I haven't counted the cost of replacing the shirt she damaged when she decided that the laundry out on the line was dry enough so leapt up, removed it from the clothes line, and brought it inside to me. Nor the irreplaceable magazines that she removed from my bookshelf & shredded, nor the fine for the library book she "discovered" in my bedroom and chomped a corner off. Nor have I counted the cost of the 2-years-old briskets waiting in my deep freezers since my previous GSD died - so far she has had only 2 bags of them, as they were extra large ones and so it took a while for her jaws to develop enough power to "destroy & swallow" them. Today, those bags would probably cost about $60. I have no idea what the electricity to power the freezers has cost during those 2 years.
Feeding costs are the most variable. Using a butcher is the most expensive. Using an abattoir is the cheapest except for having friendly hunters drop you their spare meat (especially duck hunters who clean last year's kill out of their freezer ready for the start of the new season). Dogs can survive on kibble mucks, but those are not the RAW meat that dogs do best on.
I already had security pens outside, a crate for when I have to shut her away while she's in the house, slip-chains & leashes, dishes for food & water, various balls that had arrived from neighbour's places and not been asked for, a brush & comb & anti-flea shampoo, nail clippers, old towels for rubbing her down when she's wet or dirty.
If you sensibly join a training club, you will need a dumbbell of the right size & weight to suit your pooch from 18 weeks old onwards. (My current pup likes a challenge, so she "finds" logs almost too big to fit in her mouth, a yard broom that is too big to fit through the doorway and along the passage until she allows it to revolve instead of it sticking out several feet each side of her mouth...)
If you are in a heart-worm area you WILL need to buy the preventative on-schedule.
You do NOT need to buy "treats". But you do need a source of cheap bones - chicken wings, oxtail or lamb-spines are suitable for the last-thing-at-night bone every pup should get daily. Do NOT buy the ox-leg bones that supermarkets want you to take away - they are far too dense for an adult dog, even; yes, dogs gnaw lovingly on them, hoping to reach the marrow inside (more than a level teaspoonful of marrow is too rich for the tummies of most dogs), but are more likely to shatter a tooth than shatter an ox-shin or ox-thigh.
If you want to see what my "German Shredder" looked like when younger, click
http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/dog.html?id=1325022
which includes an album of her first couple of months, plus her photo-pedigree.
If you are getting a GSD, put
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source/
in your browser's list of favourite web-sites so that you can easily look up all sorts of rearing & caring information when you need it.
To talk about GSDs, join some groups such as
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
Linx, first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968
As Rolls Royce salesmen are reputed to say:
"If you have to ask the cost, you can't afford it."
And as with cars. the first and last year are usually the most expensive!
Including fence-&-gate repairs to make it unlikely that she can escape, purchase price, petrol to collect her from 4½ hours away, feeding, vaccinations, micro chipping & licensing with the city council, replacing phone & power cables she'd chomped through, my pup cost me $2662.58 from 20 July to 28 December, which would average $532.52 a month - or $304.32 without the fencing & purchase price. I have not yet replaced the leash she pulled out of its bag and chomped into about 7 bits. Nor have I fixed or replaced the bagless vacuum-cleaner whose internal air passages got blocked when I tried to vacuum up the shreds of chomped "fire-wood" she left on the carpet in the hallway. I haven't counted the cost of replacing the shirt she damaged when she decided that the laundry out on the line was dry enough so leapt up, removed it from the clothes line, and brought it inside to me. Nor the irreplaceable magazines that she removed from my bookshelf & shredded, nor the fine for the library book she "discovered" in my bedroom and chomped a corner off. Nor have I counted the cost of the 2-years-old briskets waiting in my deep freezers since my previous GSD died - so far she has had only 2 bags of them, as they were extra large ones and so it took a while for her jaws to develop enough power to "destroy & swallow" them. Today, those bags would probably cost about $60. I have no idea what the electricity to power the freezers has cost during those 2 years.
Feeding costs are the most variable. Using a butcher is the most expensive. Using an abattoir is the cheapest except for having friendly hunters drop you their spare meat (especially duck hunters who clean last year's kill out of their freezer ready for the start of the new season). Dogs can survive on kibble mucks, but those are not the RAW meat that dogs do best on.
I already had security pens outside, a crate for when I have to shut her away while she's in the house, slip-chains & leashes, dishes for food & water, various balls that had arrived from neighbour's places and not been asked for, a brush & comb & anti-flea shampoo, nail clippers, old towels for rubbing her down when she's wet or dirty.
If you sensibly join a training club, you will need a dumbbell of the right size & weight to suit your pooch from 18 weeks old onwards. (My current pup likes a challenge, so she "finds" logs almost too big to fit in her mouth, a yard broom that is too big to fit through the doorway and along the passage until she allows it to revolve instead of it sticking out several feet each side of her mouth...)
If you are in a heart-worm area you WILL need to buy the preventative on-schedule.
You do NOT need to buy "treats". But you do need a source of cheap bones - chicken wings, oxtail or lamb-spines are suitable for the last-thing-at-night bone every pup should get daily. Do NOT buy the ox-leg bones that supermarkets want you to take away - they are far too dense for an adult dog, even; yes, dogs gnaw lovingly on them, hoping to reach the marrow inside (more than a level teaspoonful of marrow is too rich for the tummies of most dogs), but are more likely to shatter a tooth than shatter an ox-shin or ox-thigh.
If you want to see what my "German Shredder" looked like when younger, click
http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/dog.html?id=1325022
which includes an album of her first couple of months, plus her photo-pedigree.
If you are getting a GSD, put
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source/
in your browser's list of favourite web-sites so that you can easily look up all sorts of rearing & caring information when you need it.
To talk about GSDs, join some groups such as
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
Linx, first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968
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Title Post: What is the best cleaning method for throw up?
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