dog crate end table large image
Q. I have a bichon frise and I am trying to housebreak her. My friend said to use crate training. What is and how do you do "crate training"?
Answer
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.
A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.
Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.
We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.
Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate
Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.
Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.
Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.
Location of Crate
Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.
Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy
In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:
Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone
Note About Crating Puppies
Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).
Important Reminders
Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.
Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]
Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:
The pup is too young to have much control.
The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.
The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.
The pup has worms.
The pup has gaseous or loose stools.
The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.
The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.
The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)
The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.
Accidents In The Crate
If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.
Crating Duration Guidelines
9-10 Weeks
Approx. 30-60 minutes
11-14 Weeks
Approx. 1-3 hours
15-16 Weeks
Approx. 3-4 hours
17 + Weeks
Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)
*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)
The Crate As Punishment
NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.
[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]
Children And The Crate
Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.
Barking In The Crate
In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.
When Not To Use A Crate
Do not crate your puppy or dog if:
s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.
s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.
s/he is vomiting.
you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.
s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
(See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)
the temperature is excessively high.
s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.
Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.
A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.
Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.
We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.
Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate
Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.
Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.
Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.
Location of Crate
Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.
Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy
In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:
Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone
Note About Crating Puppies
Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).
Important Reminders
Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.
Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]
Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:
The pup is too young to have much control.
The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.
The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.
The pup has worms.
The pup has gaseous or loose stools.
The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.
The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.
The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)
The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.
Accidents In The Crate
If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.
Crating Duration Guidelines
9-10 Weeks
Approx. 30-60 minutes
11-14 Weeks
Approx. 1-3 hours
15-16 Weeks
Approx. 3-4 hours
17 + Weeks
Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)
*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)
The Crate As Punishment
NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.
[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]
Children And The Crate
Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.
Barking In The Crate
In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.
When Not To Use A Crate
Do not crate your puppy or dog if:
s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.
s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.
s/he is vomiting.
you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.
s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
(See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)
the temperature is excessively high.
s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.
Has anyone ever captured and tamed a feral kitten?
Betsy S
I have one in a large dog crate, with food water and litter. The kitten is 5 or 6 weeks old. It has been 2 days and I still can't touch it, it spits and growls. Does anyone know how long it takes for the kitten to learn to trust me? Thanks
Answer
If it is really a feral kitten, and not a stray, it could take months to tame it. Two days is not even a drop in the bucket, as the saying goes.
We have tamed six feral kittens which were between 6 and 12 weeks of age.
It is usually a difficult and lengthy process.
We just finished taming a 7 or 8 week old kitten and it took over 8 months to get her to the stage that we felt we could give her the run of the house and even now, about three weeks after we let her loose in the house, we cannot always handle her and she often runs away from us. She will come onto the bed with us because the bedroom is where we had her caged and she got used to us being in there, on the bed, and she would come up and we could handle and play with her and she would sleep on the bed.
It will be a long time before you get your kitten to the point that you can let it loose in the bedroom.
Keep the cage (I've always wondered why people call them crates) on a table in your bedroom that is high enough so the kitten can see you on the bed and won't have a view that consists of only legs and feet - as would be the case if the cage were on the floor.
How big is your cage? It should be at least 24" x 36" and 24" high. If it is smaller than that, get a bigger one.
Add, or have someone add, a shelf in the cage to provide a second level of area for the kitten. The kitten is going to be in the cage for quite awhile and you need to provide as much space as possible.
Make the shelf about 2/3 as long as the cage. Make the width of the shelf about 1" less than the inside width of the cage. Make it out of plywood that is at least 3/8" thick or a similar material that is as strong as 3/8" plywood.
Support it with two pieces of lumber cut down so that they will slide through the sides of the cage and are about 2" longer than the width of the cage. If you don't have a table saw to cut this sort of lumber, get some long wooden dowels and use them. Dowels usually come in 2' and 3' lengths, get the 3' lengths if your cage is 2" or wider.
Drill holes in one end of each of the support pieces. Slide the supports through the side of the cage to support the shelf. Put one support right at the back of the cage and position the other so that it will be about 1" back from the front of the shelf. Use wire or string or cable ties through the holes in the ends of the supports to fasten them to the cage grid.
Drill holes in the corners of the plywood and use cable ties or string or wire to tie the plywood to the support pieces to keep the shelf from shifting.
That will give the kitten the space it will need.
One important thing - name the kitten and then talk to it a lot and use it name. Talk to it a lot.
First you want to work at it so that you can reach in and touch the kitten without it going ballistic on you and hissing and growling, trying to get away or trying to bite or scratch you. This may take weeks - it just depends on you and the kitten.
You might want to wear a pair of heavy work gloves but never try to force the kittten to let you touch or handle it. You can wear the gloves for protection but you should not put yourself in the position that you actually need the protection. Go slow and don't force the kitten.
The next step is to get to where you can take hold of the kitten, inside the cage, and hold on to it without it going berserk.
Once you can hold the kitten in the cage, you want to move to being able to pull the kitten out of the cage and hold it just outside the door of the cage. Don't force it and be ready for the kitten to try and get away. If it is fighting to get loose, put it back in the cage. As time goes by, you should be able to hold the kitten, just outside the cage for longer and longer.
Any time you have the cage door open, have the bedroom dor closed. You do not want to have to run down the kitten when it escapes into the house.
The next step is to let the kitten loose in the bedroom - with the door closed. However, you can't take this step until you are confident that you can get the kitten back into the cage when you are ready to go to bed. You don't want the kitten loose in the room until you can handle it enough to be able to put it back in the cage and it should spend the night in the cage and whenever you are not there with it.
The next step is to be able to allow the kitten to be loose in the room when you are not there but getting to the point of letting the kitten out of the cage at all will take quite a bit of time and effort on your part.
As I said before, this whole process can possibly take months.
I don't have a lot of room here so I'm going to end this now.
Go to our site about Simon and his diabetes and email me using the Email link on the left hand side of the web pages. The site is at http://www.sugarcatsimon.com
That URL will redirect you to the actual site at http://sugarcat_simon.home.att.net - I've registered the domain name www.sugarcatsimon.com but haven't put up a new site I'm working on yet.
http://www.sugarcatsimon.com is easier to remember than the other one :-)
Email me and I'll reply with the next few steps you need to follow.
Good luck
Bob
If it is really a feral kitten, and not a stray, it could take months to tame it. Two days is not even a drop in the bucket, as the saying goes.
We have tamed six feral kittens which were between 6 and 12 weeks of age.
It is usually a difficult and lengthy process.
We just finished taming a 7 or 8 week old kitten and it took over 8 months to get her to the stage that we felt we could give her the run of the house and even now, about three weeks after we let her loose in the house, we cannot always handle her and she often runs away from us. She will come onto the bed with us because the bedroom is where we had her caged and she got used to us being in there, on the bed, and she would come up and we could handle and play with her and she would sleep on the bed.
It will be a long time before you get your kitten to the point that you can let it loose in the bedroom.
Keep the cage (I've always wondered why people call them crates) on a table in your bedroom that is high enough so the kitten can see you on the bed and won't have a view that consists of only legs and feet - as would be the case if the cage were on the floor.
How big is your cage? It should be at least 24" x 36" and 24" high. If it is smaller than that, get a bigger one.
Add, or have someone add, a shelf in the cage to provide a second level of area for the kitten. The kitten is going to be in the cage for quite awhile and you need to provide as much space as possible.
Make the shelf about 2/3 as long as the cage. Make the width of the shelf about 1" less than the inside width of the cage. Make it out of plywood that is at least 3/8" thick or a similar material that is as strong as 3/8" plywood.
Support it with two pieces of lumber cut down so that they will slide through the sides of the cage and are about 2" longer than the width of the cage. If you don't have a table saw to cut this sort of lumber, get some long wooden dowels and use them. Dowels usually come in 2' and 3' lengths, get the 3' lengths if your cage is 2" or wider.
Drill holes in one end of each of the support pieces. Slide the supports through the side of the cage to support the shelf. Put one support right at the back of the cage and position the other so that it will be about 1" back from the front of the shelf. Use wire or string or cable ties through the holes in the ends of the supports to fasten them to the cage grid.
Drill holes in the corners of the plywood and use cable ties or string or wire to tie the plywood to the support pieces to keep the shelf from shifting.
That will give the kitten the space it will need.
One important thing - name the kitten and then talk to it a lot and use it name. Talk to it a lot.
First you want to work at it so that you can reach in and touch the kitten without it going ballistic on you and hissing and growling, trying to get away or trying to bite or scratch you. This may take weeks - it just depends on you and the kitten.
You might want to wear a pair of heavy work gloves but never try to force the kittten to let you touch or handle it. You can wear the gloves for protection but you should not put yourself in the position that you actually need the protection. Go slow and don't force the kitten.
The next step is to get to where you can take hold of the kitten, inside the cage, and hold on to it without it going berserk.
Once you can hold the kitten in the cage, you want to move to being able to pull the kitten out of the cage and hold it just outside the door of the cage. Don't force it and be ready for the kitten to try and get away. If it is fighting to get loose, put it back in the cage. As time goes by, you should be able to hold the kitten, just outside the cage for longer and longer.
Any time you have the cage door open, have the bedroom dor closed. You do not want to have to run down the kitten when it escapes into the house.
The next step is to let the kitten loose in the bedroom - with the door closed. However, you can't take this step until you are confident that you can get the kitten back into the cage when you are ready to go to bed. You don't want the kitten loose in the room until you can handle it enough to be able to put it back in the cage and it should spend the night in the cage and whenever you are not there with it.
The next step is to be able to allow the kitten to be loose in the room when you are not there but getting to the point of letting the kitten out of the cage at all will take quite a bit of time and effort on your part.
As I said before, this whole process can possibly take months.
I don't have a lot of room here so I'm going to end this now.
Go to our site about Simon and his diabetes and email me using the Email link on the left hand side of the web pages. The site is at http://www.sugarcatsimon.com
That URL will redirect you to the actual site at http://sugarcat_simon.home.att.net - I've registered the domain name www.sugarcatsimon.com but haven't put up a new site I'm working on yet.
http://www.sugarcatsimon.com is easier to remember than the other one :-)
Email me and I'll reply with the next few steps you need to follow.
Good luck
Bob
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Title Post: How does crate training work?
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